Hi Charlie, thank you for your reply. Yes that's exactly the process I was thinking about. I would love to get 1 sprocket, 1 of each type wheel, 1 idler, 1 track link and perhaps a couple pieces of the suspension parts scanned if Todd would be interested in doing it. And maybe a couple more pieces that I'm neglecting to think about right now. This is totally uncharted territory for me so I'm not sure how small a part he would need to start with. Plus I will need to bring the small scale model to the shop first and bother Frank and the guys to see if all the parts fit together properly and would actually roll. It would be great if he could scan pieces of a 1/35 scale model and get a good quality scan. Then we can scale it up to 1/6th and have it printed.
I consider this a unique and unusual project, it's in preparation for my next tank after finishing the KT, a 1/6 scale Maus. Just figured it would be good to start getting parts together for it over the winter. :)
Kind regards,
John
On 11/03/11, Charlie Mann<[email protected]> wrote:I've got a friend with free access to a 3-D scanner, and he's also pretty good with making 3-D CAD models, then printing them at Shapeways. It sounds like you want to scan an object, then blow it up, basically the opposite of this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1Xk91zXsX4
Todd is pretty busy, but is always interested in unique and unusual projects. If you've got a few parts to scan, perhaps we can ask Todd if he's got time to work on them. The real expense would be 3-D printing the masters, then the cost of silicone and the resin for the reproductions. Even with using mold release, eventually silicone molds wear out and rip. That's why you preserve the master and make multiple molds.
Charlie
On 11/3/11 10:27 AM, [email protected] wrote:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1Xk91zXsX4
Todd is pretty busy, but is always interested in unique and unusual projects. If you've got a few parts to scan, perhaps we can ask Todd if he's got time to work on them. The real expense would be 3-D printing the masters, then the cost of silicone and the resin for the reproductions. Even with using mold release, eventually silicone molds wear out and rip. That's why you preserve the master and make multiple molds.
Charlie
On 11/3/11 10:27 AM, [email protected] wrote:
--In a message dated 11/3/2011 6:49:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [email protected] writes:What I'm wondering though is would it be cost effective to purchase a 1/35 or 1/16 model and have 1 piece of each running gear and 1 track link 3d scanned, then enlarge it in our own 3d programs and have the masters 3d printed. Then Frank can do his magic with the molding process?Johnas i don't know how much scans would be so i can't say cost wise how it'll be cost effective in the end as it might just put you out price wise. but since you do your own 3-D stuff, it should bring the prince down.as for casting some of these parts, i was looking to do the tracks and sprockets for the Tiger before i did the current tracks but the consensus was that the track links would end up stretching and the sprocket wheels wouldn't hold up.but if your still willing to try resin tracks and sprockets such as on the real tank, then you'll need to change resins to something stronger such as a task-3 (pretty sure that's what i used, i'll have to look), and pressure cast the parts, and at that point, you'd have to also vacuum the rubber as when you pressure cast, any air bubble left in the rubber will end up give you a pickle effect once those air bubbles in the mold collapse.another thing, for the track links, i'd cast in some small sections of brass tubing to work as bearings between the pin and the link otherwise your pin will start to wear on the resin.but if they were cast in metal..........and as for my mold not being done right causing it to rip, it was done right, but it wasn't for tracks (i forget what it was, as it happened a while ago).Chris,--
Odyssey Slipways
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