I've got a friend with free access to a 3-D scanner, and he's also
pretty good with making 3-D CAD models, then printing them at Shapeways.
It sounds like you want to scan an object, then blow it up, basically
the opposite of this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1Xk91zXsX4
Todd is pretty busy, but is always interested in unique and unusual
projects. If you've got a few parts to scan, perhaps we can ask Todd if
he's got time to work on them. The real expense would be 3-D printing
the masters, then the cost of silicone and the resin for the
reproductions. Even with using mold release, eventually silicone molds
wear out and rip. That's why you preserve the master and make multiple
molds.
Charlie
On 11/3/11 10:27 AM, [email protected] wrote:
In a message dated 11/3/2011 6:49:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[email protected] writes:
What I'm wondering though is would it be cost effective to
purchase a 1/35 or 1/16 model and have 1 piece of each running
gear and 1 track link 3d scanned, then enlarge it in our own 3d
programs and have the masters 3d printed. Then Frank can do his
magic with the molding process?
John
as i don't know how much scans would be so i can't say cost wise how
it'll be cost effective in the end as it might just put you out price
wise. but since you do your own 3-D stuff, it should bring the prince
down.
as for casting some of these parts, i was looking to do the tracks and
sprockets for the Tiger before i did the current tracks but the
consensus was that the track links would end up stretching and the
sprocket wheels wouldn't hold up.
but if your still willing to try resin tracks and sprockets such as on
the real tank, then you'll need to change resins to something stronger
such as a task-3 (pretty sure that's what i used, i'll have to look),
and pressure cast the parts, and at that point, you'd have to also
vacuum the rubber as when you pressure cast, any air bubble left in
the rubber will end up give you a pickle effect once those air bubbles
in the mold collapse.
another thing, for the track links, i'd cast in some small sections of
brass tubing to work as bearings between the pin and the
link otherwise your pin will start to wear on the resin.
but if they were cast in metal..........
and as for my mold not being done right causing it to rip, it was done
right, but it wasn't for tracks (i forget what it was, as it happened
a while ago).
Chris,
Odyssey Slipways <http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html>
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