Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type
all that up.

Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i
already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good
to know im on the right track.


On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech <[email protected]> wrote:

> As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the
> hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned!  EVW's at 24 volts are
> special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in
> your technical prowess to tame!
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> Advice in no particular order:
>
>    - These motors are timed CW or CCW.  Have a matched set or re-time as
>    required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm
>    - Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps:
>    http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg
>    http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg
>    - Review the T040 Cromwell build log:
>    http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi
>    - If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your
>    controller.
>    - Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller.
>    - Build STRONG motor mounts
>    - Build a STRONGER transmission
>    - You will need a PWM controller.  Don't even think of using the old
>    style on/off TriPact controllers
>    - A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me going
>    on 8 years
>    - Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets.
>     Use a lathe for boring if you can
>    - You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling
>    - A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a set
>    of 18AH SLA's.
>    - A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on fresh
>    SLA's
>    - Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will
>    fail.  Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your
>    drive-train design
>    - At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train
>    before they stall
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:
>>
>> Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of
>> mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors
>> though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts.
>>
>> Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the
>> datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many
>> Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do
>> the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?
>>
>> On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been
>>> doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment
>>> to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to
>>> not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.
>>>
>>> Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to
>>> have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit
>>> of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea how
>>> many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt
>>> scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think,
>>> seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
>>> enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least
>>> 500-600 watts?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Isaac
>>>
>>  --
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