Nice little device (provided it can be found at a reasonable price) that eliminates a couple of hassles associated with mounting sprockets on shafts.

On 8/10/2013 10:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
Isaac,

When I had a set of EV Warrior motors, I bought some Fenner Trantorque
keyless bushings to mount my drive sprockets to the 8mm shaft.  The
5/16" version actually is well within tolerance for use with an 8mm
shaft.  The keyless bushings don't mar the shaft at all or require any
thing going through the shaft.  I found mine on Ebay for like $5/per
bushing, but they are normally like $20/per if bought at retail price.
  I do have some left over that are still in the factory packaging if
you want to give them a shot.  I'd let them go for what I paid plus
shipping.

The issue of using the 8mm bushing from Fenner as opposed the the 5/16"
bushing is that you would then need metric sprockets which are hard to
find to fit over the 8mm keyless bushing.  The keyless bushings cinch
down on the shaft while pushing out on the sprocket mounted over them.
  No keyway or set screws are used.  Using the standard 5/16" size on
the 8mm shaft means that normal standard bore sprockets can be used (in
this case 3/4").  I got lucky and found some small 3/4" bore sprockets
(like 10 tooth and no hub) in standard 35 pitch that fit right over
them.  I sold the motors, connector pigtails, EV mounts, sprockets, a
set of bushings, and the sprockets to someone here on the list a while
back because I didn't want to deal with creating a reduction for them.
  Here's what the keyless bushings look like:

http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/?s=ZnwyMzE4

I use them for my drive sprockets to mount the 60 pitch sprockets to my
5/8" main drive shafts.  You can see the gold colored keyless bushings
on the rear drive axles (of course those are much larger than the ones I
used on my EV Warrior motors):




On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:02 AM, isaac goldman <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

    Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to
    type all that up.

    Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or
    that i already learned the hard way in various other robotics
    competitions. Good to know im on the right track.


    On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech <[email protected]
    <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

        As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system
        in the hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned!  EVW's
        at 24 volts are special beasts that will require a resolute
        nature and unfailing faith in your technical prowess to tame!

        Steve Tyng


        Advice in no particular order:

            * These motors are timed CW or CCW.  Have a matched set or
              re-time as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm
            * Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression
              caps:
              http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg
              http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg
            * Review the T040 Cromwell build log:
              http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi
            * If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your
              controller.
            * Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller.
            * Build STRONG motor mounts
            * Build a STRONGER transmission
            * You will need a PWM controller.  Don't even think of using
              the old style on/off TriPact controllers
            * A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well
              for me going on 8 years
            * Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor
              sprockets.  Use a lathe for boring if you can
            * You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling
            * A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run
              time on a set of 18AH SLA's.
            * A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time
              on fresh SLA's
            * Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened
              shaft) will fail.  Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly
              recommended in your drive-train design
            * At workable reductions, these motors will shred your
              drive-train before they stall

        Good luck!







        On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North
        Armouries wrote:

            Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at
            the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few
            questions concerning EV motors though for people who know
            about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts.

            Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people
            use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100
            amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be.
            Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs
            accept standard sized crimp connectors?

            On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North
            Armouries wrote:

                Hi all,

                I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day,
                though ive been doing research and electronics work
                since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve
                for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful
                to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.

                Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most
                of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly
                hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line,
                and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many
                watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350
                watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I
                wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of
                you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
                enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should
                look for at least 500-600 watts?


                Thanks in advance,

                Isaac

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