Forgot to mention, they can be loosened and tightened as many times as you need to. If the sprocket is not where you want it you simply loosen the bushing, slide the sprocket/bushing where you want it, and tighten it back down. I've never had mine slip being used to hold my drive sprockets in place and those carbon steel tracks are heavy as hell (like 20lbs each).
Derek On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 9:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt <[email protected]> wrote: > Isaac, > > When I had a set of EV Warrior motors, I bought some Fenner Trantorque > keyless bushings to mount my drive sprockets to the 8mm shaft. The 5/16" > version actually is well within tolerance for use with an 8mm shaft. The > keyless bushings don't mar the shaft at all or require any thing going > through the shaft. I found mine on Ebay for like $5/per bushing, but they > are normally like $20/per if bought at retail price. I do have some left > over that are still in the factory packaging if you want to give them a > shot. I'd let them go for what I paid plus shipping. > > The issue of using the 8mm bushing from Fenner as opposed the the 5/16" > bushing is that you would then need metric sprockets which are hard to find > to fit over the 8mm keyless bushing. The keyless bushings cinch down on > the shaft while pushing out on the sprocket mounted over them. No keyway > or set screws are used. Using the standard 5/16" size on the 8mm shaft > means that normal standard bore sprockets can be used (in this case 3/4"). > I got lucky and found some small 3/4" bore sprockets (like 10 tooth and no > hub) in standard 35 pitch that fit right over them. I sold the motors, > connector pigtails, EV mounts, sprockets, a set of bushings, and the > sprockets to someone here on the list a while back because I didn't want to > deal with creating a reduction for them. Here's what the keyless bushings > look like: > > http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/?s=ZnwyMzE4 > > I use them for my drive sprockets to mount the 60 pitch sprockets to my > 5/8" main drive shafts. You can see the gold colored keyless bushings on > the rear drive axles (of course those are much larger than the ones I used > on my EV Warrior motors): > > > > > On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:02 AM, isaac goldman <[email protected]>wrote: > >> Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type >> all that up. >> >> Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i >> already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good >> to know im on the right track. >> >> >> On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the >>> hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned! EVW's at 24 volts are >>> special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in >>> your technical prowess to tame! >>> >>> Steve Tyng >>> >>> >>> Advice in no particular order: >>> >>> - These motors are timed CW or CCW. Have a matched set or re-time >>> as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm >>> - Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps: >>> http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg >>> http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg >>> - Review the T040 Cromwell build log: >>> http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi >>> - If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your >>> controller. >>> - Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller. >>> - Build STRONG motor mounts >>> - Build a STRONGER transmission >>> - You will need a PWM controller. Don't even think of using the old >>> style on/off TriPact controllers >>> - A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me >>> going on 8 years >>> - Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets. >>> Use a lathe for boring if you can >>> - You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling >>> - A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a >>> set of 18AH SLA's. >>> - A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on >>> fresh SLA's >>> - Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will >>> fail. Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your >>> drive-train design >>> - At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train >>> before they stall >>> >>> Good luck! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: >>>> >>>> Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage >>>> of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors >>>> though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 >>>> volts. >>>> >>>> Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the >>>> datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many >>>> Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do >>>> the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? >>>> >>>> On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hi all, >>>>> >>>>> I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been >>>>> doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a >>>>> moment >>>>> to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to >>>>> not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. >>>>> >>>>> Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem >>>>> to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair >>>>> bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea >>>>> how >>>>> many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt >>>>> scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, >>>>> seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track >>>>> enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least >>>>> 500-600 watts? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Thanks in advance, >>>>> >>>>> Isaac >>>>> >>>> -- >>> -- >>> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. >>> To post a message, send email to [email protected] >>> To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] >>> Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat >>> >>> --- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to [email protected]. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Isaac Goldman >> 5142334423 >> >> This message contains confidential information and is intended only for >> the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not >> disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. >> >> -- >> -- >> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. >> To post a message, send email to [email protected] >> To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] >> Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat >> >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "R/C Tank Combat" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. >> > > -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe, send email to [email protected] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. 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