I have considered the Tichy detail parts, but I wonder if they won't be just
a bit too big?

Grandt Line, however, makes various sizes of O scale rivets in plastic and
brass (see Walthers link below), so I wonder if any of those would be
appropriate for S scale rivets? :

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=rivet&start=120
Pan down to the Grandt Line listing.

Northwest Shortline makes a tool called The Riveter :
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/53-514
Numerous sizes punches and die accessories availible; see link below :
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=rivet&start=210
Pan down to the NWSL listing.

Here's the Walthers listing for Tichy's rivets :
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?quick=rivet&start=240

That's about all I can find.


John Degnan
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
John's World on the Web
http://www.trainweb.org/seaboard/welcome.htm
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "meldridge2000" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: June 02, 2005 10:09 AM
Subject: [S-Scale Modeling] Re: Scratch-Built Box Car Sides


> The limiting factor is the overlapping joint. I think the only way
> you
> can do this well is with brass. If you use thin enough styrene,
> you'll
> have a terrible time embossing rivets without punching through. Even
> with the brass, the sheet will be very thin, so you need to fill in
> the back of the rivets if you emboss them, otherwise they'll get
> flattened as you handle the car. I've been considering making a car
> side with the thin brass, then molding and casting the side in
> polyurethane, but I don't care about boxcar interiors so it doesn't
> matter how thick the wall is. Another option on my "to try" list is
> that you can buy rivets from Tichy. These are like NBW castings. I'm
> not sure I could drill the required holes accurately enough, but
> maybe
> with an XY table or even the Riveter table in the drill press it
> would
> work.
>
> -Michael Eldridge



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