Hi Mark --
Handlay what you can't buy, but use flex track! Unless you are only 20,
the time saved is worth the loss of texture. If you can get hold of
Keller's Great Model RR's videos of George Selios' railroad, he has some
great ideas on how to make flex track look like hand laid ( within the first
video of him, as I recall). If I were to handlay my whole railroad, I
would still be putting down track on the lower, storage level. Intead, I am
cussing over the industrial trackage that has to be handlaid on the upper
level, but at least the trains can run on the mainline which is mostly
Tomalco flex and Shinohara #8 turnouts (code 100).
Re: Why did I build my SLE&P the way I did -- The basic design is a double
track mainline in a folded eight, around the room pattern, with a narrow
guage branch (the Coal Creek Central) climbing to a still higher level
(nearly 5 feet from the floor). The lower level is mostly storage track (4
east, 4 west, double ended yard tracks, as well as the mainlines) capable of
30 to 40 car trains in each track, depending upon which track. Max grade
on the standard gauge is about 2%, minimum curveture on the mains (above
scenery) is 72" and 54" where it will be out of sight. Some curves are as
large as 81" radius... All of this is in a 20 x 20 foot trainroom that was
a standard addition to the house plan, but enhanced with a lot of extra
lighting and outlets (all a LOT less expensive than modifying an existing
house). Construction is 2 x 4 frames held together by 2 x 4 stringers and
1/2" OSB tabletop, while the backdrop is 1/8" masonite attached to the
vertical part of the 2 x 4 frames and acting as a shear panel. The whole
thing is free standing and NOT attached (except by gravity) to the house.
Why did I choose this plan? It maximizes trackage while minimizing table
work, and also lets me play on both standard and narrow gauge. The
standard guage is basically "let 'er run", while the narrow gauge is "work
your butt off", so it can be played either way... Essentially, the new
SLE&P is a grown up version of the old SLE&P which was in a 10 x 13 foot
room, but still quite successful in making its operators happy (although
only two could fit in the room, while one stood in the doorway!).
Re: your what would I do differently question, this new railroad IS starting
over. IF I were to have more room, I would certainly make the space
between upper and lower levels a good deal larger. Currently it is 10
inches but what it really should be is more like 18 to 24 inches to keep me
from becoming a contortionist (getting harder and harder to do at my
advancing age!)... So far, I am happy with the design and construction
(other than the spacing) and IF I acan ever get all the wiring done and all
the track laid (still lots of handlay!), I think it will keep me happy. If
you need more details, you can ask me again....
Good luck with yours (don't put it off too long),
Bill Winans
It's been quite some time since we talked about our layouts, so let us know
what you have and why you built it that way (or how you plan to build it).
What would you do differently if you could start over?
Mark Plank
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