When PRS was still run by John Verser I purchased the detail sprues and
cast them in brass. I then soldered the end details on to the Perma-Built metal
ends. I also made up roofs from scratch similar to what Bob Anson described. I
added underbody detail, replaced the wheelsets with NWSL, installed 802's using
the kadee knuckle spring.
Why go to all the trouble with an old Perma-Built kit??? I'm in this
hobby to build things, and not just buy things.
J Rustermier
--- In [email protected], Bob Anson <e2picasso@...> wrote:
>
> ok...
>
> Bob Anson %~)
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Thomas Baker <bakert@...>
> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sun, February 27, 2011 11:33:43 AM
> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Re: More AF
>
>
>
>
> So that's where they came from! About 20 years ago, I purchased six Af
> three-bay hopper shells from a modeler in Detroit for five Dollars apiece.
> One
> became a CGW welded hopper, of which the company owned five. Another became
> a
> regular CGW hopper, another an M&StL three-bay, and the others await their
> fate.
> Interestingly, that modeler also photocopied for me a Perma-Bilt catalogue.
> He
> said the original was in color, very interesting to see what was once out
> there.
>
> I also picked up from him and other vendors a few Perma-Bilt box cars. To
> the
> one or two I have worked on the following modifications made them, I think, a
> bit more prototypical:
>
> 1. Ditch the stamped roof. It looks like nothing a steel box car usually had.
>
> Most steel box cars had the rectangular panel roof and later, of course, the
> diagonal panel.
>
> 2. Use Northeastern S-scale roof stock rather than that stamped outrage.
> From
> cardboard or styrene of the proper thickness, cut out rectangular panels of
> the
> proper width.
>
> 3. Use Plastistruc T-sections for the stiffeners between the panels, cut them
> to
> the proper length, and install them at the correct intervals. I use plans
> photocopied from MM or even a PRS roof as a guide.
>
> 4. I use the wood blocks for the end, but rather than use the two narrow
> wooden
> pieces on which the stamped roof would be mounted, I may find a popsicle
> stick
> or piece of wood of that thickness and then mount the Northeastern roof stock
> on
> that.
>
> 5. I have been using the stamped Perma-Bilt ends but may look for ends that
> are
> closer to proptotype.
>
> 6. I have not yet tried but may in the future try the Archer rivet decals to
> get
> greater detail for the horizontal rivets on the bottom and the top near the
> roof.
>
> Why take so much trouble? Well, I like the challenge and the end product.
> Oh,
> and I do not use the Perma-Bilt stamped roof walk either but use an AM roof
> walk. You'd be surprised at the change this makes.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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