Bob: I have an idler gear tower for an RS-2/RS-3 four wheel truck. Would that work? I'm not familiar with the RSD drives.
Also, make sure the universal socket isn't slipping on the worm gear shaft, or one of the nylon gears isn't cracked. I've had to trace down those "mysteries" in the past, too I stripped the threads on one of these idler tower halves a few years ago and fixed it by drilling and tapping a 1-72 threaded hole in the shouldered idler screw shaft. It wasn't easy with my crude tools and skills, but it worked. >From the sound of things, this idler gear tower is apparently what you need. >Let me know if the one I have would work. Bob Nicholson _____________________________________ --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > Dear Friends, I write this with heavy heart! I've been fighting this > fight for about a year but things keep getting worse! I ask you to > check your junk boxes for the items I need--and you thought I was going > to ask for donations didn't you! > > I've been trying to get one of my favorite engines (Alco models RS-5) > back to running good. I had a sound decoder malfunction. I replaced > that and things seemed good, but when I started pulling a train I > discovered that one truck's drive wheels would stop rotating on a grade > or with a moderate weight train. After taking it apart again and again, > I determined that the universals, shafts and the worm all were doing > their thing. I found a fair amount of play in one of the 4 zamac (yes > that again) castings. When I tried to tighten it the screws broke out > and the surrounding area broke loose. This play was apparently letting > gears loose their mesh. > > Each truck has four castings--two are a sandwich affair that hold the > drivers and the two upper pieces are a bit more like a clam shell with > two halves--one of those halves is the problem. > > I have thought about three solutions: #1 is to find someone to make a > new upper replacement piece possibly from solid brass stock. #2 > re-drill deeper holes in the existing casting and then try and replace > the broken 'crumbs' with some JB Weld--somewhat like a dentist would do > with a cavity. Or #3 find somebody who has one of these drives that is > too far gone, but where this piece might still be okay. > > Since #3 is the easiest, so I'm starting with this group first. Anybody > have one they can spare? Please help me get this little fellow back in > good health so it can run and play with all the other engines in the > neighborhood--operators are standing by! > > Bob Werre > BobWphoto.com > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
