Bob: I used to put the spring below the coupler, but the thickness of the spring is so negligible that it doesn't make much sense, since you have to align the spring so the pivot boss on the cap holds it in place.
Therefore, I mount the spring on the pivot boss, then the coupler, then slide the bottom of the coupler pocket in place. Of course, I always check coupler height with a coupler height check gage. Almost always, coupler height for #5's (or Walthers) mounted this way on SHS and AM cars is right on the money. Incidentally, needle point bearings on truck axles should also alleviate coupler alignment problems, but I have noticed very little difference from blunt axles in that regard, either. Sometimes, I think we tend to break out in a sweat over theoretical questions rather than actual experience. Bob Nicholson ___________________________________________ --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > Okay guys who use the #5's and similar. Several years ago I attended > our regional NMRA/Lone Star convention. One of the clinics was about > couplers. The gentlemen described how he assembled his #5 boxes and > then one of the audience mentioned that he was not following the Kadee > instructions. He was putting the spring under the coupler, while the > instruction sheets say to put it above the coupler. In other > words--from bottom up--main section of box, then the coupler, then the > spring and finally the lid. The presenter was doing it the opposite > way, which is also the way I have been assembling them. > > What are you folks doing? > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > > > On 12/21/11 1:25 AM, Ed wrote: > > > > > I haven't seen anyone yet mention one thing that could be > > detrimental to using the smaller sized HO Kadee's > > > Bud Rindfleisch > > > > Bud.... > > > > One downside to the KD#5 is that the mounting holes on recent brass > > some resin models are intended for the KD#802. There is an easy fix -- > > just use the center hole and only one ear hole. Or, for the > > fastidious, carve away some plastic on the draft gear box and then > > everything fits well. > > > > Another downside is that the new plastic ACE adaptors from Iron > > Rail(?) are designed for the KD#802. Thus, I assume they will not fit > > the smaller KD#5 (assumption). > > > > Another downside to the KD#5 is that the usual between-rails HO magnet > > is not strong enough to work properly with the too-high glad hand of > > the unmodified KD#5. Thus, it is necessary to either use the much > > stronger under-the-ties magnets or else bend the glad hand down closer > > to the rail head. Not hard to do, but takes some time. > > > > > or Walther's clones, > > > > While a larger head than the KD#5 is good, the main downside to the > > Walther's coupler is somewhat greater slack action between the > > knuckles when coupled as compared to the KD#5. Not springy like the > > KD#802, but just a bit of a loose fit. The KD#5 is a tighter fit. > > > > It should be noted that Walters also makes a reverse trip pin coupler > > where the glad hand bends back beneath the draft gear box. This is > > nice for cars that couple directly to diesels with pilots. The reverse > > trip pin works well with the usual magnets. > > > > > the fact that the head size being smaller overall would require very > > good trackwork and no sudden grade changes or the possibility exists > > for "high and low" uncoupling. > > > > Normal careful trackwork works just fine. No sudden grade changes are > > a good idea no matter what kind of coupler is used. Steamer pilots and > > diesel pilots can touch the track on abrupt vertical changes. > > > > A bigger problem on the so-called Mighty NYC is that the springs on > > brass passenger cars weaken with age and the coupler height drops down > > a bit. Mysterious accidental uncoupling was quite common until I > > figured out what was going on. > > > > > The NASG standards adopted were to address that > > > > The revised standards did reduce the side slop between flanges and > > rails. But the excessive side slop between axles and sideframes was > > not affected by the new standards. > > > > > then the 802's came along. > > > > KD#802's are admittedly more forgiving of bad trackwork. But good > > trackwork is not that hard to achieve. > > > > Just some thoughts -- worth what you paid for them. > > > > Cheers....Ed L. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
