When using the Kadee HO couplers, which most of my Sn3 equipment have on
them, I normally have the spring on the top, like the Kadee instructions.
However, most current Sn3 plastic and resin kits have the coupler box molded
to the floor, so the "lid" is actually the bottom and you don't need the
Kadee box.  That means that you build it like you do but with the coupler
upside down.  Actually most current Sn3 kits are designed for the #26, which
is the same as a #5 with a longer shank.  The makes it easier to model the
coupler pocket on the end beam of wooden-framed cars.  The only problem is
that if you want to use the HO Sergent couplers, the post is in the wrong
place.  The standard HO Sergents are designed to be a drop-in for the
ubiquitous #5.

Dave Heine
Easton, PA



   
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Bob Werre
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 10:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Re: Kadee 802/808's vs any "HO" coupler

Okay guys who use the #5's and similar.  Several years ago I attended 
our regional NMRA/Lone Star convention.  One of the clinics was about 
couplers.  The gentlemen described how he assembled his #5 boxes and 
then one of the audience mentioned that he was not following the Kadee 
instructions.  He was putting the spring under the coupler, while the 
instruction sheets say to put it above the coupler.  In other 
words--from bottom up--main section of box, then the coupler, then the 
spring and finally the lid.  The presenter was doing it the opposite 
way, which is also the way I have been assembling them.

What are you folks doing?

Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx







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