Bob and Bob and Anyone Else Still Following This,
I have had some success covering the wood roofs with 0.005" Evergreen
styrene. (I have also used it to simulate a UP car with distinct rivets that I
am building over an AM car). The plastic eliminates the need to seal the wood.
I'm sure the process takes less time than "4 to 6 coats" of sealer. I think
the last one I did, I used ACC to attach two large pieces of styrene on to the
wood. Then I used styrene cement to add another layer that I had cut into the
smaller panels. The seams are a by-product. As I have stated before, I have
issues with the curvature of the AM roof. In my opinion, a vast improvement
can be made by putting a styrene half-round (1/8th" I think.) down the center
of the roof. Then you use just the single layer of strips making panels and
seams. Plastic cement will take to the plastic AM shells better than it does
to wood, but I think I have at least one wood roofed car that I used styrene
cement to glue one layer of styrene to the wood! Back to underbody details
soon.
Jamie Bothwell
On Sep 6, 2012, at 3:34 PM, adguytrains wrote:
> Bob...
>
> I've tried the same approach to the AM cars, but the ABS plastic that Ron
> used is so hard that the #11 blade tends to "slip" off the guide at the
> edges. That makes one just a tad angry, at the least. I've had to trash
> several AM shells in the past because I'm a slow learner and just kept trying
> to no avail. Perhaps someone has devised a better way to apply these seams?
>
> ...
> Bob Hogan
>
> --- In [email protected], Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Bob, however I guess I gave the wrong impression. I had already
> > done the JC cars but stopped building when the AM cars came out. I did
> > seal my wooden roofs and used the scriber to add the seams.
> >
> ...
> >
> > Bob Werre
>
