boB, I guess you are correct! So the entire wheel of plastic would be
the cure in that case.
This now brings up an interesting side story. A former custom layout
builder put together a continually running HO display layout in a
Children s Hospital. Maintenance is a part-time thing. They recently
requested that local modelers donate plastic wheelsets with metal
axles. These will be used on cabooses to pick up the gunk on the
rails. Most all modelers have replaced the old Rex, Ace and other
plastic wheels because they collect dirt--maybe that's what's needed on
a car or two. Use the plastic wheels to collect dirt and then toss
them. This seems to keep the rails fairly clean and still most of the
rolling stock still has metal wheelsets. I guess sometimes you need to
take a step back to find a solution.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
On 7/5/13 11:32 AM, shabbona_rr wrote:
I'm not sure double insulate wheelsets would work. The metal wheels
would provide a direct path to ground from the engine, bypassing the
insulated axle, unless the engine itself was insulated from the frame
boB Nicholson _______________________________________________
--- In [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com>, Bob
Werre <bob@...> wrote:
>
> I've also had issues with clearances and shorts; and I've been into
mine
> a couple of times. I have removed some material from the cylinders too
> and it does okay now. I did a search for plastic or at least double
> insulated wheel sets without success, but I think all pilot wheels
> should be insulated on both sides--if they're need for pickup, you have
> additional major problems.
>
> Bob Werre
> PhotoTraxx
> > Bill,
> > Thanks, for your thought. I thought about extending the wheel base
but
> > there is very little space between the rear wheel of the pony truck
> > and the front driver that I might solve one problem and create
> > another. I think filing the inside of the cylinder is the way I'll
> > proceed...I rather have a good running loco than one that looks good
> > but doesn't run well!! I doubt that anyone will notice where I
> > removed the metal anyway once it painted.
> > Thanks
> > Ed Sauers
> >
> > *From:* scale S only <scalesonly@...>
> > *To:* [email protected] <mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com>
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 3, 2013 5:17 PM
> > *Subject:* Re: {S-Scale List} Help needed with OMI USRA 462
electrical
> > shorting problem
> > Hi Ed --
> >
> > I have one of these engines (doesnâEUR^(TM)t pull well, but it
runs nicely, as
> > you
> > say). I donâEUR^(TM)t have curves this sharp so I donâEUR^(TM)t
have this problem, but
> > here are a couple of possible solutions:
> >
> > A bit of Scotch magic tape on the cylinder where the rubbing
occurs. This
> > is easily replaceable, and will probably last quite a while. (Only
works
> > if everything stays on the track in its present form.)
> >
> > Remake the truck extending the wheel base just a bit. This would
require
> > sectioning the truck frame and adding a âEURoedoublerâEUR? over
the joint where
> > the
> > two pieces were spaced apart. I went just the other way with a
lead truck
> > on a 4-6-0 when I was a kid, taking a piece out of the frame to
> > shorten the
> > truck.
> >
> > This last fix is kind of being in the same ball park as cutting a
> > clearance
> > notch in the cylinders âEUR" it does nothing to improve the engine
or the
> > value
> > of it except to make it useable for you. To me, that is an acceptable
> > trade.
> >
> > Have fun!
> > Bill Winans
> > Prescott Valley, AZ (where it is raining again, thank you VERY much!)
> > -----------------------------
> >
> > I am having a problem with the rear pony truck wheel shorting out
against
> > the inside of the steam cylinders (front inside edge of the
cylinders)
> > on my
> > 42" curves. If anyone has run into this problem and has come up with a
> > solution, please share with me what it takes to eliminate this
problem. I
> > could remove a small amount of brass on the inside of the cylinder
but
> > would
> > like this to be a last resort solution only. This engine really
runs very
> > well otherwise!.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ed Sauers
> >
> >
>
