Bob, Your right on, that what's causing the problem. Ed Sauers From: shabbona_rr <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, July 5, 2013 12:32 PM Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Help needed with OMI USRA 462 electrical shorting problem
I'm not sure double insulate wheelsets would work. The metal wheels would provide a direct path to ground from the engine, bypassing the insulated axle, unless the engine itself was insulated from the frame boB Nicholson _______________________________________________ --- In mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com, Bob Werre <bob@...> wrote: > > I've also had issues with clearances and shorts; and I've been into mine > a couple of times. I have removed some material from the cylinders too > and it does okay now. I did a search for plastic or at least double > insulated wheel sets without success, but I think all pilot wheels > should be insulated on both sides--if they're need for pickup, you have > additional major problems. > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > Bill, > > Thanks, for your thought. I thought about extending the wheel base but > > there is very little space between the rear wheel of the pony truck > > and the front driver that I might solve one problem and create > > another. I think filing the inside of the cylinder is the way I'll > > proceed...I rather have a good running loco than one that looks good > > but doesn't run well!! I doubt that anyone will notice where I > > removed the metal anyway once it painted. > > Thanks > > Ed Sauers > > > > *From:* scale S only <scalesonly@...> > > *To:* mailto:S-Scale%40yahoogroups.com > > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 3, 2013 5:17 PM > > *Subject:* Re: {S-Scale List} Help needed with OMI USRA 462 electrical > > shorting problem > > Hi Ed -- > > > > I have one of these engines (doesn’t pull well, but it runs nicely, as > > you > > say). I don’t have curves this sharp so I don’t have this problem, but > > here are a couple of possible solutions: > > > > A bit of Scotch magic tape on the cylinder where the rubbing occurs. This > > is easily replaceable, and will probably last quite a while. (Only works > > if everything stays on the track in its present form.) > > > > Remake the truck extending the wheel base just a bit. This would require > > sectioning the truck frame and adding a “doubler†over the joint where > > the > > two pieces were spaced apart. I went just the other way with a lead truck > > on a 4-6-0 when I was a kid, taking a piece out of the frame to > > shorten the > > truck. > > > > This last fix is kind of being in the same ball park as cutting a > > clearance > > notch in the cylinders â€" it does nothing to improve the engine or the > > value > > of it except to make it useable for you. To me, that is an acceptable > > trade. > > > > Have fun! > > Bill Winans > > Prescott Valley, AZ (where it is raining again, thank you VERY much!) > > ----------------------------- > > > > I am having a problem with the rear pony truck wheel shorting out against > > the inside of the steam cylinders (front inside edge of the cylinders) > > on my > > 42" curves. If anyone has run into this problem and has come up with a > > solution, please share with me what it takes to eliminate this problem. I > > could remove a small amount of brass on the inside of the cylinder but > > would > > like this to be a last resort solution only. This engine really runs very > > well otherwise!. > > > > Thanks > > Ed Sauers > > > > >
