[Drakelist] Speaker For 2BQ
Hello- I believe the originasl speaker for the Drake 2-BQ was a Jensen "Concert" if I recall correctly. I need to find a suitable replacement for a 2-BQ I am restoring, it has a real cheapy looking speaker in it now. Any recommendations? Thanks, Byron WA5THJ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] RE;New Area Code Danger
Ok guys, I hit the wrong button, 1st time ever, HI. VERY Sorry, I screwed up!! PLEASE just hit "DELETE", don't start a war. PLEASE TnxDoug___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fw: New Area Code Danger
Another scam to avoid. From employee of Duke Energy: New Area Code - PLEASE READ Be sure you read this and pass it on. 809 Area Code We actually received a call last week from the 809 area code. The woman said 'Hey, this is Karen. Sorry I missed you- get back to us quickly. I have something important to tell you.' Then she repeated a phone number beginning with 809. We did not respond. Then this week, we received the following e-mail: Do Not DIAL AREA CODE 809, 284, AND 876 from the U.S. or Canada. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION PROVIDED TO US BY AT&T. DON'T EVER DIAL AREA CODE 809 This one is being distributed all over the US ... This is pretty scary, especially given the way they try to get you to call. Be sure you read this and pass it on. They get you to call by telling you that it is information about a family member who has been ill or to tell you someone has been arrested, died, or to let you know you have won a wonderful prize, etc.. In each case, you are told to call the 809 number right away. Since there are so many new area codes these days, people unknowingly return these calls. If you call from the U.S. or Canada, you will apparently be charged a minimum of $2425 per-minute. And you'll also get a long recorded message. The point is, they will try to keep you on the phone as long as possible to increase the charges. WHY IT WORKS: The 809 area code is located in the Dominican Republic . The charges afterward can become a real nightmare. That's because you did actually make the call. If you complain, both your local phone company and your long distance carrier will not want to get involved and will most likely tell you that they are simply providing the billing for the foreign company. You'll end up dealing with a foreign company that argues they have done nothing wrong. Please forward this entire message to your friends, family and colleagues to help them become aware of this scam. AT&T VERIFIES IT'S TRUE :http://www.att.com/gen/press-room?pid=6045 SNOPES VERIFIES IT'S TRUE:http://www.snopes.com/fraud/telephone/809..asp ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question
Is there a new replacement drive for the L4B and L7 verniers that can be purchased? Dennis AE6C On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 2:05 PM, K9sqg wrote: > Dino, > > This is normal operation for a vernier drive that has either sat for an > extended period of time unused or, in less frequent cases, one that has had > a lot of use. There are ways of cleaning, relubing, and then repositioning > things so the drive has "renewed bite" so to speak. However, for all it > takes to do this in terms of time and effort, one can consider just > replacing the drive itself. It is a matter of personal preference. Good > luck with your decision. > > 73, > > Evan > > > > > -Original Message- > From: Dino Papas > To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear > Sent: Thu, Jan 13, 2011 3:59 pm > Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question > > Well, today in anticipation of rebuilding my L-4BPS I decided to finally > install > the Harbach soft-start module in the amp (hey, its only been sitting in the > project queue for a few yearsno sense in rushing). > > While I had it open did the normal maintenance stuff, lubed the fan etc. I've > had a problem now for a couple of months with the plate tuning cap turning > action. Somewhere between the 80m and 40m sections the turning action slows > down to a standstill and you'd have to spin the knob several times to get it > to > move VERY slowly thru its rotation. > > With the amp opened up I found that a little bit of pressure applied either > as a > push or pull would get the cap to rotate at almost normal speed throughout its > rotation. Not wanting to screw something up I decided to leave it alone and > check with the group. It may just be that after 32 years the rotation > mechanism > is just wearing out. > > Anyone else experience this? If so any fixes? > > Thanks in advance! > > Dino KL0S > > BTW, the Harbach module works greatthe power supply board is built and > ready > to install but think I've done enough for today! > ___ > Drakelist mailing > listDrakelist@zerobeat.nethttp://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Solder Suckers
On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 16:15:25 -0500, Paul Gerhardt wrote: >Today I used my new used Hakko 808 to work on a tube rig and it is >really NICE. We use those where I work too (no, I haven't found any in the trash yet). I love my 808. A few tips: Keep it clean. Run the poker down the air path often - the springy thing is for the tip, the small screwdriver is for the pipe through the heating element. Remove the tip periodically to keep it fron siezing onto the pipe. Keep it clean If it ever seems to not suck ( a bad thing in this case ), open up the two pump sections and check for flux buildup on the vanes. Keep it clean. Properly maintainted, the are quite reliable and effective. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime." HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question
Dino, This is normal operation for a vernier drive that has either sat for an extended period of time unused or, in less frequent cases, one that has had a lot of use. There are ways of cleaning, relubing, and then repositioning things so the drive has "renewed bite" so to speak. However, for all it takes to do this in terms of time and effort, one can consider just replacing the drive itself. It is a matter of personal preference. Good luck with your decision. 73, Evan -Original Message- From: Dino Papas To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear Sent: Thu, Jan 13, 2011 3:59 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question Well, today in anticipation of rebuilding my L-4BPS I decided to finally install the Harbach soft-start module in the amp (hey, its only been sitting in the project queue for a few yearsno sense in rushing). While I had it open did the normal maintenance stuff, lubed the fan etc. I've had a problem now for a couple of months with the plate tuning cap turning action. Somewhere between the 80m and 40m sections the turning action slows down to a standstill and you'd have to spin the knob several times to get it to move VERY slowly thru its rotation. With the amp opened up I found that a little bit of pressure applied either as a push or pull would get the cap to rotate at almost normal speed throughout its rotation. Not wanting to screw something up I decided to leave it alone and check with the group. It may just be that after 32 years the rotation mechanism is just wearing out. Anyone else experience this? If so any fixes? Thanks in advance! Dino KL0S BTW, the Harbach module works greatthe power supply board is built and ready to install but think I've done enough for today! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Eddy - Thanks for the expert kluge repair advice! My kids grew up calling me "the Russian Repairman," and "Duct Tape Dad," so I can tell you are a quality craftsman! All it takes is a bigger hammer, right? 73, Terry K7WLD -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Diane and Edward Swynar Sent: Thursday, 13 January, 2011 10:16 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes... Good Day All, Well, I think taht an update may well be in order here, as to the outcome of my "...red-neck hillbilly" (apologies to all you mountain-dwelling folk reading this) "fix" in the matter of improving the shielding of the PTO can in my Drake T-4X transmitter... In a word: it WORKS!!! SO FAR it works, anyway...again to-day I've completed several CQ calls on 40-meters CW, and was engaged in a couple of lengthy rag chews---and there was NONE of the previous intermittent tell-tale frequency jumpiness / intermittent creeping / jiggling... NOTHING. Needless-to-say, I'm very pleased. Keep in mind, however, that my situation here was probably unique from most others: I had repeatedly removed & replaced the PTO shield cover here in efforts to track-down what turned-out to be at least one bad solder joint in the tank circuit. No doubt this served to compromise the integrity of the shielding of the can. Additionaly, my station is situated in a very cold basement environment, AND I have a fan extracting air out of the final 2x6JB6A PA cage, which by default, cools the entire inside of the transmitter... The rig's warm-up cycle was far from normal, as a result, I'm sure... Anyway, FWIW guys, don't neglect the critical effect that even the smallest of gap changes in shielding seams can have upon the field of that permeable-tuned tank coil, and by consequence, your transmit frequency. The aluminum strip shielding technique employed here may be far from eye-pleasing, but the benefits of its presence sure are a joy to the ear...! Hi Hi. Here's hoping that my travails may ultimately benefit another(s) in the Drake community... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ - Original Message - From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:42 PM Subject: Drake Twins PTO Woes... > Good Day All, > > Well, I took the T-4X off-line here to-day, & set it up on the bench with > the top cover removed, exposing the PTO can... > > I pondered the ways & means of "sealing" the small gaps between the base of > the can & its metal attaching surface, with the intention of eliminating any > consequent expansion/contraction effect(s) of the joints upon the oscillator > frequency. > > I settled upon a rather crude, but I think effective, expediency: I simply > cut a strip of aluminum cooking foil, and wrapped it around the can base, > being sure that there was overlap on the base that supports the "ears" of > the can. I then bridged the strip (on both sides) with masking tape, > ensuring good bonding along the length of the strip... > > It's inelegant, for sure, but achieves its end purpose, I think... > > I put the transmitter on 40-meters CW, and noted the tell tale frequency > creep one time---however, the rig had been on for only 10 minutes, barely > enough time to warm up. After about 90 minutes, I made a couple of QSOs, and > called CQs, all-the-while monitoring myself on my R-4 receiver... > > I'm happy to report that "...so far, so good." I'll need more time to > evaluate the results of all this, of course, but I'm encouraged. Perhaps the > ultimate answer lies in operating the rigs in an environment that's warmer > than the 49F that the basement was this afternoon! Hi Hi. > > Certainly, time will tell...I guess I could always place a small > incandescent bulb somewhere inside the T-4X to help speed its heating > /reaching "operating temperature"---but then that effort would be defeated, > in large part, by the cooling fan that extracts air from the 2x6JB6A PA > cage! (that rascal keeps the whole inside of the rig cool to the touch). > > ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5785 (20110113) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5785 (20110113) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Solder Suckers
Today I used my new used Hakko 808 to work on a tube rig and it is really NICE. I bit expensive but if you do much 'rework' or repair it is nice. Wish I had one earlier on... http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Desoldering-Kit-808-Gun/dp/B000ARPULW I removed some cathode to ground jumper wires and replaced them with resistors for fuse and metering on 4 tube sockets and this made it quite a bit easier. I also used it to solder the new parts in rather than heat up another iron. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Hi Garey, I was worried that I was proverbially "...losing it" when you mentioned V14 in the R-4 receiver---but a check of the manual here shows NO such animal in my rig...! The voltage & resistance charts go only as high as V13---and the list of the complement of tubes (page 4 in my manual) only shows 13 tubes, as well... The serial number of my R-4 is 0769: could it be possible that I have a very early version of the R-4 here, & that Drake incorporated V14 in later runs...? ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: "drakelist" Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes... > Hi Eddy - > > Can't argue with success! Hope it holds > > By the way, there IS voltage stabilization in the R-4, an 0B2 at V14. > This supplies +150 VDC Regulated to the 100 kHz Calibrator, the PTO and > the BAND oscillator. > > When you said that the frequency drifted 'slowly' when the voltage drops > and drifts 'quickly' when the voltage comes back up, I was on board with > your filament regulation idea as that's the sort of behavior I would expect. > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line > and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: > > Hi Again Everone, > > > > ...Just a brief post-script to this thread... > > > > Monitoring the T-4X transmit frequency on my R-4 sure has highlighted the > > fact that load changes on the AC mains have a detrimental effect upon that > > receiver. Whenever the forced-air electric furnace / heat-pump in the > > adjoining room would start, the frequency of the R-4 would creep (and no, it > > wasn't my frequency that was changing, it was the station I was listrening > > to). > > > > A look at the schematic shows no obvious precautions taken with the R-4 to > > stabilize critical voltages. I wonder if anyone has ever added a VR tube > > after-the-fact to their R-4 to stabilize things...? And if so, was it worth > > the effort...? > > > > ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ > > > > > > > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question
Well, today in anticipation of rebuilding my L-4BPS I decided to finally install the Harbach soft-start module in the amp (hey, its only been sitting in the project queue for a few yearsno sense in rushing). While I had it open did the normal maintenance stuff, lubed the fan etc. I've had a problem now for a couple of months with the plate tuning cap turning action. Somewhere between the 80m and 40m sections the turning action slows down to a standstill and you'd have to spin the knob several times to get it to move VERY slowly thru its rotation. With the amp opened up I found that a little bit of pressure applied either as a push or pull would get the cap to rotate at almost normal speed throughout its rotation. Not wanting to screw something up I decided to leave it alone and check with the group. It may just be that after 32 years the rotation mechanism is just wearing out. Anyone else experience this? If so any fixes? Thanks in advance! Dino KL0S BTW, the Harbach module works greatthe power supply board is built and ready to install but think I've done enough for today! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Hi Eddy - Can't argue with success! Hope it holds By the way, there IS voltage stabilization in the R-4, an 0B2 at V14. This supplies +150 VDC Regulated to the 100 kHz Calibrator, the PTO and the BAND oscillator. When you said that the frequency drifted 'slowly' when the voltage drops and drifts 'quickly' when the voltage comes back up, I was on board with your filament regulation idea as that's the sort of behavior I would expect. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: Hi Again Everone, ...Just a brief post-script to this thread... Monitoring the T-4X transmit frequency on my R-4 sure has highlighted the fact that load changes on the AC mains have a detrimental effect upon that receiver. Whenever the forced-air electric furnace / heat-pump in the adjoining room would start, the frequency of the R-4 would creep (and no, it wasn't my frequency that was changing, it was the station I was listrening to). A look at the schematic shows no obvious precautions taken with the R-4 to stabilize critical voltages. I wonder if anyone has ever added a VR tube after-the-fact to their R-4 to stabilize things...? And if so, was it worth the effort...? ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Of course... Hope it hangs in there. One of these days I hope to catch you on the air and we can have the Drakes talk to each other! I do alot of CW with the SKCC group. Curt KU8L Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: Hi Curt, Oh my, but you can be oh so VERY cruel there...! Hi Hi But you're correct, of course: in order to properly verify / ascertain the success of the "fix"---or, correctly identify the infamous "Red X" (as it's dubbed in select circles of problem solving)---one needs to be able to turn the problem "off", and then turn the problem "on" again, by repeating the methodology of said "fix"... But I think I'll pass here, thank-you very much! I am absolutely weary of removing the top enclosure off of the transmitter, wrestling with that can, AD NAUSEAM...time to make a few QSOs, & continue monitoring, for now...! :>) ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ * - Original Message - From: "Curt Nixon" To: "Diane and Edward Swynar" Cc: Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 1:56 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes... Now..after you have used it some more with no issue, you need to remove the tin-foil to verify that the problem wasn't simply solved by a repeated re-installation of the standard can ! :) Curt Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: Good Day All, Well, I think taht an update may well be in order here, as to the outcome of my "...red-neck hillbilly" (apologies to all you mountain-dwelling folk reading this) "fix" in the matter of improving the shielding of the PTO can in my Drake T-4X transmitter... In a word: it WORKS!!! SO FAR it works, anyway...again to-day I've completed several CQ calls on 40-meters CW, and was engaged in a couple of lengthy rag chews---and there was NONE of the previous intermittent tell-tale frequency jumpiness / intermittent creeping / jiggling... NOTHING. Needless-to-say, I'm very pleased. Keep in mind, however, that my situation here was probably unique from most others: I had repeatedly removed & replaced the PTO shield cover here in efforts to track-down what turned-out to be at least one bad solder joint in the tank circuit. No doubt this served to compromise the integrity of the shielding of the can. Additionaly, my station is situated in a very cold basement environment, AND I have a fan extracting air out of the final 2x6JB6A PA cage, which by default, cools the entire inside of the transmitter... The rig's warm-up cycle was far from normal, as a result, I'm sure... Anyway, FWIW guys, don't neglect the critical effect that even the smallest of gap changes in shielding seams can have upon the field of that permeable-tuned tank coil, and by consequence, your transmit frequency. The aluminum strip shielding technique employed here may be far from eye-pleasing, but the benefits of its presence sure are a joy to the ear...! Hi Hi. Here's hoping that my travails may ultimately benefit another(s) in the Drake community... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ - Original Message - From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:42 PM Subject: Drake Twins PTO Woes... Good Day All, Well, I took the T-4X off-line here to-day, & set it up on the bench with the top cover removed, exposing the PTO can... I pondered the ways & means of "sealing" the small gaps between the base of the can & its metal attaching surface, with the intention of eliminating any consequent expansion/contraction effect(s) of the joints upon the oscillator frequency. I settled upon a rather crude, but I think effective, expediency: I simply cut a strip of aluminum cooking foil, and wrapped it around the can base, being sure that there was overlap on the base that supports the "ears" of the can. I then bridged the strip (on both sides) with masking tape, ensuring good bonding along the length of the strip... It's inelegant, for sure, but achieves its end purpose, I think... I put the transmitter on 40-meters CW, and noted the tell tale frequency creep one time---however, the rig had been on for only 10 minutes, barely enough time to warm up. After about 90 minutes, I made a couple of QSOs, and called CQs, all-the-while monitoring myself on my R-4 receiver... I'm happy to report that "...so far, so good." I'll need more time to evaluate the results of all this, of course, but I'm encouraged. Perhaps the ultimate answer lies in operating the rigs in an environment that's warmer than the 49F that the basement was this afternoon! Hi Hi. Certainly, time will tell...I guess I could always place a small incandescent bulb
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Hi Curt, Oh my, but you can be oh so VERY cruel there...! Hi Hi But you're correct, of course: in order to properly verify / ascertain the success of the "fix"---or, correctly identify the infamous "Red X" (as it's dubbed in select circles of problem solving)---one needs to be able to turn the problem "off", and then turn the problem "on" again, by repeating the methodology of said "fix"... But I think I'll pass here, thank-you very much! I am absolutely weary of removing the top enclosure off of the transmitter, wrestling with that can, AD NAUSEAM...time to make a few QSOs, & continue monitoring, for now...! :>) ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ * - Original Message - From: "Curt Nixon" To: "Diane and Edward Swynar" Cc: Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 1:56 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes... > Now..after you have used it some more with no issue, you need to remove > the tin-foil to verify that the problem wasn't simply solved by a > repeated re-installation of the standard can ! :) > > Curt > > > > Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: > > Good Day All, > > > > Well, I think taht an update may well be in order here, as to the outcome of > > my "...red-neck hillbilly" (apologies to all you mountain-dwelling folk > > reading this) "fix" in the matter of improving the shielding of the PTO can > > in my Drake T-4X transmitter... > > > > In a word: it WORKS!!! > > > > SO FAR it works, anyway...again to-day I've completed several CQ calls on > > 40-meters CW, and was engaged in a couple of lengthy rag chews---and there > > was NONE of the previous intermittent tell-tale frequency jumpiness / > > intermittent creeping / jiggling... NOTHING. Needless-to-say, I'm very > > pleased. > > > > Keep in mind, however, that my situation here was probably unique from most > > others: I had repeatedly removed & replaced the PTO shield cover here in > > efforts to track-down what turned-out to be at least one bad solder joint in > > the tank circuit. No doubt this served to compromise the integrity of the > > shielding of the can. Additionaly, my station is situated in a very cold > > basement environment, AND I have a fan extracting air out of the final > > 2x6JB6A PA cage, which by default, cools the entire inside of the > > transmitter... > > > > The rig's warm-up cycle was far from normal, as a result, I'm sure... > > > > Anyway, FWIW guys, don't neglect the critical effect that even the smallest > > of gap changes in shielding seams can have upon the field of that > > permeable-tuned tank coil, and by consequence, your transmit frequency. The > > aluminum strip shielding technique employed here may be far from > > eye-pleasing, but the benefits of its presence sure are a joy to the ear...! > > Hi Hi. > > > > Here's hoping that my travails may ultimately benefit another(s) in the > > Drake community... > > > > ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:42 PM > > Subject: Drake Twins PTO Woes... > > > > > > > >> Good Day All, > >> > >> Well, I took the T-4X off-line here to-day, & set it up on the bench with > >> the top cover removed, exposing the PTO can... > >> > >> I pondered the ways & means of "sealing" the small gaps between the base > >> > > of > > > >> the can & its metal attaching surface, with the intention of eliminating > >> > > any > > > >> consequent expansion/contraction effect(s) of the joints upon the > >> > > oscillator > > > >> frequency. > >> > >> I settled upon a rather crude, but I think effective, expediency: I simply > >> cut a strip of aluminum cooking foil, and wrapped it around the can base, > >> being sure that there was overlap on the base that supports the "ears" of > >> the can. I then bridged the strip (on both sides) with masking tape, > >> ensuring good bonding along the length of the strip... > >> > >> It's inelegant, for sure, but achieves its end purpose, I think... > >> > >> I put the transmitter on 40-meters CW, and noted the tell tale frequency > >> creep one time---however, the rig had been on for only 10 minutes, barely > >> enough time to warm up. After about 90 minutes, I made a couple of QSOs, > >> > > and > > > >> called CQs, all-the-while monitoring myself on my R-4 receiver... > >> > >> I'm happy to report that "...so far, so good." I'll need more time to > >> evaluate the results of all this, of course, but I'm encouraged. Perhaps > >> > > the > > > >> ultimate answer lies in operating the rigs in an environment that's warmer > >> than the 49F that the basement was this afternoon! Hi Hi. > >> > >> Certainly, time will tell...I guess I could always place a small > >> incandescent bulb somewhere inside the T-4X to help speed its heating > >> /reaching "operating temperature"---but then that effort would be > >> > > defeated, > > > >> in large part, by
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Now..after you have used it some more with no issue, you need to remove the tin-foil to verify that the problem wasn't simply solved by a repeated re-installation of the standard can ! :) Curt Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: Good Day All, Well, I think taht an update may well be in order here, as to the outcome of my "...red-neck hillbilly" (apologies to all you mountain-dwelling folk reading this) "fix" in the matter of improving the shielding of the PTO can in my Drake T-4X transmitter... In a word: it WORKS!!! SO FAR it works, anyway...again to-day I've completed several CQ calls on 40-meters CW, and was engaged in a couple of lengthy rag chews---and there was NONE of the previous intermittent tell-tale frequency jumpiness / intermittent creeping / jiggling... NOTHING. Needless-to-say, I'm very pleased. Keep in mind, however, that my situation here was probably unique from most others: I had repeatedly removed & replaced the PTO shield cover here in efforts to track-down what turned-out to be at least one bad solder joint in the tank circuit. No doubt this served to compromise the integrity of the shielding of the can. Additionaly, my station is situated in a very cold basement environment, AND I have a fan extracting air out of the final 2x6JB6A PA cage, which by default, cools the entire inside of the transmitter... The rig's warm-up cycle was far from normal, as a result, I'm sure... Anyway, FWIW guys, don't neglect the critical effect that even the smallest of gap changes in shielding seams can have upon the field of that permeable-tuned tank coil, and by consequence, your transmit frequency. The aluminum strip shielding technique employed here may be far from eye-pleasing, but the benefits of its presence sure are a joy to the ear...! Hi Hi. Here's hoping that my travails may ultimately benefit another(s) in the Drake community... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ - Original Message - From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:42 PM Subject: Drake Twins PTO Woes... Good Day All, Well, I took the T-4X off-line here to-day, & set it up on the bench with the top cover removed, exposing the PTO can... I pondered the ways & means of "sealing" the small gaps between the base of the can & its metal attaching surface, with the intention of eliminating any consequent expansion/contraction effect(s) of the joints upon the oscillator frequency. I settled upon a rather crude, but I think effective, expediency: I simply cut a strip of aluminum cooking foil, and wrapped it around the can base, being sure that there was overlap on the base that supports the "ears" of the can. I then bridged the strip (on both sides) with masking tape, ensuring good bonding along the length of the strip... It's inelegant, for sure, but achieves its end purpose, I think... I put the transmitter on 40-meters CW, and noted the tell tale frequency creep one time---however, the rig had been on for only 10 minutes, barely enough time to warm up. After about 90 minutes, I made a couple of QSOs, and called CQs, all-the-while monitoring myself on my R-4 receiver... I'm happy to report that "...so far, so good." I'll need more time to evaluate the results of all this, of course, but I'm encouraged. Perhaps the ultimate answer lies in operating the rigs in an environment that's warmer than the 49F that the basement was this afternoon! Hi Hi. Certainly, time will tell...I guess I could always place a small incandescent bulb somewhere inside the T-4X to help speed its heating /reaching "operating temperature"---but then that effort would be defeated, in large part, by the cooling fan that extracts air from the 2x6JB6A PA cage! (that rascal keeps the whole inside of the rig cool to the touch). ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Hi Again Everone, ...Just a brief post-script to this thread... Monitoring the T-4X transmit frequency on my R-4 sure has highlighted the fact that load changes on the AC mains have a detrimental effect upon that receiver. Whenever the forced-air electric furnace / heat-pump in the adjoining room would start, the frequency of the R-4 would creep (and no, it wasn't my frequency that was changing, it was the station I was listrening to). A look at the schematic shows no obvious precautions taken with the R-4 to stabilize critical voltages. I wonder if anyone has ever added a VR tube after-the-fact to their R-4 to stabilize things...? And if so, was it worth the effort...? ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Twins PTO Woes...
Good Day All, Well, I think taht an update may well be in order here, as to the outcome of my "...red-neck hillbilly" (apologies to all you mountain-dwelling folk reading this) "fix" in the matter of improving the shielding of the PTO can in my Drake T-4X transmitter... In a word: it WORKS!!! SO FAR it works, anyway...again to-day I've completed several CQ calls on 40-meters CW, and was engaged in a couple of lengthy rag chews---and there was NONE of the previous intermittent tell-tale frequency jumpiness / intermittent creeping / jiggling... NOTHING. Needless-to-say, I'm very pleased. Keep in mind, however, that my situation here was probably unique from most others: I had repeatedly removed & replaced the PTO shield cover here in efforts to track-down what turned-out to be at least one bad solder joint in the tank circuit. No doubt this served to compromise the integrity of the shielding of the can. Additionaly, my station is situated in a very cold basement environment, AND I have a fan extracting air out of the final 2x6JB6A PA cage, which by default, cools the entire inside of the transmitter... The rig's warm-up cycle was far from normal, as a result, I'm sure... Anyway, FWIW guys, don't neglect the critical effect that even the smallest of gap changes in shielding seams can have upon the field of that permeable-tuned tank coil, and by consequence, your transmit frequency. The aluminum strip shielding technique employed here may be far from eye-pleasing, but the benefits of its presence sure are a joy to the ear...! Hi Hi. Here's hoping that my travails may ultimately benefit another(s) in the Drake community... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ - Original Message - From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 5:42 PM Subject: Drake Twins PTO Woes... > Good Day All, > > Well, I took the T-4X off-line here to-day, & set it up on the bench with > the top cover removed, exposing the PTO can... > > I pondered the ways & means of "sealing" the small gaps between the base of > the can & its metal attaching surface, with the intention of eliminating any > consequent expansion/contraction effect(s) of the joints upon the oscillator > frequency. > > I settled upon a rather crude, but I think effective, expediency: I simply > cut a strip of aluminum cooking foil, and wrapped it around the can base, > being sure that there was overlap on the base that supports the "ears" of > the can. I then bridged the strip (on both sides) with masking tape, > ensuring good bonding along the length of the strip... > > It's inelegant, for sure, but achieves its end purpose, I think... > > I put the transmitter on 40-meters CW, and noted the tell tale frequency > creep one time---however, the rig had been on for only 10 minutes, barely > enough time to warm up. After about 90 minutes, I made a couple of QSOs, and > called CQs, all-the-while monitoring myself on my R-4 receiver... > > I'm happy to report that "...so far, so good." I'll need more time to > evaluate the results of all this, of course, but I'm encouraged. Perhaps the > ultimate answer lies in operating the rigs in an environment that's warmer > than the 49F that the basement was this afternoon! Hi Hi. > > Certainly, time will tell...I guess I could always place a small > incandescent bulb somewhere inside the T-4X to help speed its heating > /reaching "operating temperature"---but then that effort would be defeated, > in large part, by the cooling fan that extracts air from the 2x6JB6A PA > cage! (that rascal keeps the whole inside of the rig cool to the touch). > > ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
