Re: [Emc-users] 5-axis table-table kinematics: G54 offsets (Andy Pugh)

[Rudy du Preez]

I am confused with G54 to G59. Look at the following code and run it on a
simulation setup with Axis C rotation added:

G10 L2 P1 x0  y0  C0
G10 L2 P2 x10 y10 C0
G10 L2 P3 x0  y0  C-45

o100 sub
G0 x25 y0
G1 x30 f200
G1 y5
G1 x25
G1 y0
o100 endsub

g54 G0 x0 y0 C0
o100 call
g55 G0 x0 y0 C0
o100 call
g56 G0 x0 y0 C0
o100 call

G54 x0 y0 C0
m30

In trivial kinematics it does three squares, the first one in untransformed
coordinates, the second one with a shift of origin to x10 y10, and the 3rd
one with a rotational shift of -45 degrees. All seems as expected.

In world mode of a 4-axis system, with the inverse kinematics:

  joints[0] = cos(C)*x - sin(C)*y;   joints[1] = sin(C)*x + cos(C)*y

and forward kinematics:

  x = cos(C)*joints[0] + sin(C)*joints[1];  y = -sin(C)*joints[0] +
cos[C]*joints[1]

it does the first and second squares in the same way as with trivialkins,
but the 3rd square is placed in the original world coordinate position, even
though the C-axis has been turned -45 degrees.

My question is: why does the G55 shift work the same but not the G56?

Rudy

**


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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[gene heskett]

On Tuesday, December 27, 2011 12:32:26 AM charles green did opine:

> 60 degree included angle double angle cutter, such as
>  
> http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=367-7100&PMPXNO=948041&PARTPG=I
> NLMK32 
> might work.  not too too spendy, and can be ground to get within a full
> thread of a step.

Ordered 3.

> the solid carbide lathe I.D. thread tools work too
> if you can set them up to turn eccentrically (a boring head performs
> this function quite nicely.)  the carbide single points are nice
> because they come in smaller effective cutting diameters, so the
> deviation from thread profile can be minimized to an extent when just
> using helical interpolation.  if you're using a rotary table set at the
> proper angle, this is not a problem.  another approach is to set the
> rotary table to cut the thread with the spindle at 90 degrees to the
> thread axis using a 60 degree chamfer tool, like 
> http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-2218&PMPXNO=5809091&PARTPG=
> INLMK3 

This one looks like I could mill pcb's with it too, so I ordered 5.

> note:  the sharp points on such tools are REALLY fragile, so go super
> slow feed if you need a sharp vee.  it's possible to hand grind a tool
> like this out of a broken old carbide tool stub, but in my experience,
> it takes many many tries to get the point on the center of the shaft
> (+/- a small flat end tolerance) and still have the required back
> relief all the way around.
> 
The first looks as if I can make the nipples with it, the second I can 
isolation route pcb's with.  These opto gizmo's have a very small .050" 
connection pattern, so I suspect I'll be hand carving code, probably to 
bolt them to the PCB, and bend the leads over onto runners that will lead 
to the through holes for the leads.  Too small at 50 thou spacing to try & 
cut a pad around the hole.  Besides, if I bolt them to the board, I can 
loosen the bolts and tap them around to get decently quadrature timings 
from the AB set.  But I may have to come and ask where the X pulse time 
should be referencing the AB timing.  Its slot is cut the same width as the 
AB slots so I'm not sure how the logic works to pick the same edge 
depending on the direction.

I just downloaded the manual for that Grizzly G9972Z lathe and made a 
discovery, it does have a reversible spindle motor, but doesn't say so in 
the sales propaganda.  So cnc'ing that just got a bunch easier because I 
can reverse it with 3 sequenced relays & a bit of logic plus a timer.  :)

I'm going to be busy with this transmitter conversion here in another week 
or so ($$ coming in), plus Russ is picking me up for a 2 or 3 day trip to 
Iron Mountain to see if I can revive that 40 year old Harris transmitter 
one more time, (more $$ coming in) so I believe I'll have that Grizzly 
G9972Z I've been drooling over loaded into the back of my pickup and coming 
home with me before warm weather.  I am about a 6 hour trip away from 
Muncie PA. And I can feed my GMC both ways for about the freight they 
charge.  About 700 lbs, it should be a hell of a lot more rigid than this 
rubber 7x10 I am screwing with now.  It may not be a great lathe, but it 
will be a bigger grin for me.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[charles green]

60 degree included angle double angle cutter, such as
 
http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=367-7100&PMPXNO=948041&PARTPG=INLMK32
 
might work.  not too too spendy, and can be ground to get within a full thread 
of a step.  the solid carbide lathe I.D. thread tools work too if you can set 
them up to turn eccentrically (a boring head performs this function quite 
nicely.)  the carbide single points are nice because they come in smaller 
effective cutting diameters, so the deviation from thread profile can be 
minimized to an extent when just using helical interpolation.  if you're using 
a rotary table set at the proper angle, this is not a problem.  another 
approach is to set the rotary table to cut the thread with the spindle at 90 
degrees to the thread axis using a 60 degree chamfer tool, like
 
http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-2218&PMPXNO=5809091&PARTPG=INLMK3
 
note:  the sharp points on such tools are REALLY fragile, so go super slow feed 
if you need a sharp vee.  it's possible to hand grind a tool like this out of a 
broken old carbide tool stub, but in my experience, it takes many many tries to 
get the point on the center of the shaft (+/- a small flat end tolerance) and 
still have the required back relief all the way around.


--- On Mon, 12/26/11, gene heskett  wrote:


From: gene heskett 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Date: Monday, December 26, 2011, 5:04 AM


On Monday, December 26, 2011 07:37:48 AM Dave Caroline did opine:

> I have cut threads that way.
> the tooling
> http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/DJCPD/PD/2009/2009_08_13_cn
> c/P1010245.JPG
> 
> I also tilt the rotary axis so the cut properly follows the helix,
> this requires some maths in the gcode to follow the tilted path
> 
> before I made that tool and also before the B axis I made a worm
> jacking the rotary to the required angle with some packing
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jbp8SJ9RxqI
> 
> Dave Caroline
> 
That is exactly what I have in mind, Dave.  What sort of a tool is that in 
the movie, and where can it be obtained?  Looks like some sort of a 
multitooth rig to be able to cut full depth in one pass.  If that tool can 
cut steel with a decent life that is, I note you are doing brass in the 
movie but this will be in a BP rifle, an un-vented 209 primer nipple TBE.
I've found a load that does sub 2" groups at 50 yards, but BH209 powder is 
so hard to light that in a rifle using #11 caps, I have to put a starter 
charge of 5 gr of RS into the hole first, then follow that with 60-90 gr of 
BH209.  Then the bullet.  But if I change the nipple to one that will put 
the full power of a std 209 primer into it, that should work w/o the duplex 
loading & that is what I want to do.  But the 209 nipples available to fit 
this one are all side vented to reduce the primers fire because the full 
jolt is too much for real black powder.  BH209 powder is actually a 
smokeless, and the cleaning required is a byproduct of having to use the 
duplex loading to get it to ignite.  I tried it once with the vented 
nipple, and had to remove the nipple and add a few kernels of RS into the 
hole, put the nipple back in.  Next trigger pull did fire, but with about a 
250 millisecond hangfire.  Bullet off the paper...

BH209 is so hard to light, I'm told it doesn't need a hazmat warning or 
fee, but its still $10/oz.  What the heck ever happened to BP being cheap 
to shoot?

Thanks.

> On Mon, Dec 26, 2011 at 8:00 AM, gene heskett  wrote:
> > Greetings;
> > 
> > I've about worn out that 7x10 I have, and its rubber tool post
> > prevents me from doing anything resembling a fine finish regardless
> > of the sharpness of the bit.  When cutting threads I have to, before
> > reversing the spindle to back away & reset to deepen the cut on the
> > next pass, back the crossfeed off a full turn to keep the bit from
> > dragging on the thread as it supposedly retraces its path backwards.
> >  I knew it was a toy when I bought it, and I'm considering its
> > replacement with something big enough that its worthwhile cnc'ing it.
> > 
> > I have a need for cutting a clean, nearly interference fitted 1/4x28
> > external thread for a distance of about 1/4", immediately adjacent to
> > a 1/2" diameter seating plane when this is screwed into its receiver.
> > 
> > I don't have an encoder on either the lathe or the mills spindle, so
> > the thought runs toward a flying cutter in the mill spindle whose tip
> > profile is that of the 60 degree included angle tooth.
> > 
> > Now, the cutter would be working on the side of the workpiece, mounted
> > with the axis vertical in a chuck on a rotary table, turning very
> > slowly as the z axis travels in 1/28 step.
> > 
> > Since I can run the z axis and a axis in lock step, what prevents me
> > from cutting this thread with the fly cutter other than finding a
> > suitable fly cutter?
> > 
> > I thought so, so where in tunket can I f

Re: [Emc-users] Encoder Discs, possible collective order

[Jon Elson]

dave wrote:
> The fancy encoder on some Fanuc motors comes to mind. I think Jon Elson
> doped out how to read one of them. 
>   
Yup, Fanuc serial pulse coders come in 64K, 128K and 1 million count 
versions.
The 64K don't dither at all, too.  These have A860-xxx part numbers, and are
called the (alpha) (A or I) (64 or 128 or 1M) so you can construct your own
descriptor.

I do know how to read these out, but don't have a finished product yet.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] 5-axis table-table kinematics: G54 offsets

[Andy Pugh]

On 26 Dec 2011, at 15:06, "Rudy du Preez"  wrote:

> I tried to use a G54 in the GCODE for a C-axis offste - it did not seem to
> work. I will try again.

As far as I know G54 only selects a coordinate system. If you want to put an 
offset into that (or any other) coordinate system you need to use G10. 
G92 is probably closer to what I think you want. 


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Re: [Emc-users] adobe-acrobat

[Florian Rist]

Hi Cathrine

> Where do I find LibraOffice?

Well, it's LiebreOffice, an OpenOffice fork:

http://www.libreoffice.org/

cu
Flo

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Re: [Emc-users] adobe-acrobat

[Cathrine Hribar]

  Lester:

Where do I find LibraOffice?
  Merry Christmas!
  

Thanks:

Bill WA0WWN



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Re: [Emc-users] Encoder Discs, possible collective order

[dave]

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 17:13:11 +
andy pugh  wrote:

> On 22 December 2011 16:45, Anders Wallin
>  wrote:
> 
> > a dream project of mine would be a telescope mount. To minimize
> > tracking error one should measure the rotation directly on the
> > geared axis (not the motor) and one wants maybe 4 million pulses
> > (22 bits) per rev for that.
> 
> That sounds like a job for a resolver, rather than an incremental
> encoder. I am not sure which chip the Pico converter uses, but the
> same family go up to a claimed resolution of 2 arc minutes.
> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/synchro-resolver-to-digital-converter/7094709/
> Not inexpensive, though.
> Couple that with a multipole resolver and you might get what you want.
> 
> > want an encoder with 12 to 14 bits of sine-shaped counts, i.e. up to
> > 16k-counts/rev. How big a circle would that require?
> 
> That depends mainly on the sensor. The sensor I am intending to use is
> 75 lines per inch, so 16k would be a 68 inch circle..
> There is a 150 lpi version, for a mere 3-foot encoder.

The fancy encoder on some Fanuc motors comes to mind. I think Jon Elson
doped out how to read one of them. 

Dave
> 


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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[gene heskett]

On Monday, December 26, 2011 12:19:25 PM Steve Stallings did opine:

> > > The tool cutting brass is one I found amongst some cutters
> > 
> > at a clock
> > 
> > > and watch show
> > > It just suited the job, you can also use commercial thread mills
> > > eg
> > 
> > http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking
> > /tapping/t
> > 
> > > hread_mills/thread_mills_products.jhtml
> > 
> > These of course have to be ordered per tpi, and Kennametal
> > has any pricing
> > hidden behind a login screen.  Bad dog they be, no biscuit from me.
> 
> Gene,
> 
> Maybe try eBay. Item 180765422137 is one example
> from a seller who has several sizes. On the other
> hand, $45 for an easy to break carbide cutter is
> a bit of a thrill that I can live without.
> 
> Single tooth thread mills like item 190567056928
> are also available and offer the ability to cut
> a reasonable range of pitches with one tool.
> Again, somewhat pricy and fragile.
 
Somewhat? Starting at 150$ & bigger than I can drive by 4x is a bit more 
than somewhat.  But thanks for looking, I did about 80 pages of ebay myself 
& only came up with one other similar item at a similar price, and one even 
bigger for about 4 bills.

>From the looks of that, I have a drawer full of 1 to 4" taps, cleaned out 
of a shed at the bro-in-laws place after he died, most in need of 
sharpening or nicked teeth on one corner.  Looks like I could sell a few of 
those for at least the shipping cuz I'll never have a use to a 4" NPT tap.

Another BIG box of huge, dull drill bits I've occasionally reached into for 
tooling steel, and 2 boxes of bent & worn wrenches.  Anything that  got 
damaged & wasn't going back to the tool crib apparently came home in his 
lunchbox ala the Johnny Cash theory, for 40 some years.

I guess I've finally reached that age where everything I like is either 
illegal, fattening, or immoral. Sigh...
 
> Cheers,
> Steve Stallings
> 
> 
> 
> -- Write once. Port to many.
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Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Electronics failing in cold weather?

[gene heskett]

On Monday, December 26, 2011 10:43:05 AM Igor Chudov did opine:

> I had, recently, a couple of instances of electronics failing,
> seemingly, from cold weather.
> 
> 1. Netgear GS-108 8 port gigabit switch failed when I left on vacation
> and let the house cool to 52 degrees F.
> 
> 2. Saitek USB joystick on my CNC mill failed when the garage cooled to,
> perhaps, 40 degrees F.

Electrolytic capacitors being used at a very small fraction of their 
labeled voltage rating will 'deform' and lose capacitance, and cold weather 
tends to exacerbate it, often because the pressure held internal 
connections to the foil fail at the same time.  They will generally exhibit 
a high 'ESR' (Equivalent Series Resistance) prior to that, which if there 
is enough current to warm the resistance, will exhibit "It has to warm up 
for 10 minutes before it works right" performance.  The heat will tighten 
the crimp and make a better connection.

Either one might also fail because a microscopic crack has formed around 
the lead of a part.  Re-warming all the soldered joints & adding a small 
amount of fresh rosin cored solder might help in that case.  I have one of 
those saikek game pads but haven't checked it for function in a while, I 
could not do sufficiently precise work with its teeny little joystick 
buttons.

> I am wondering, what specifically could possibly account for those
> failures, what mechanism. Thanks.

Those would be the 2 major failure mechanisms.  There are others, but 
stastistically an extremely rare occurrence in my 60+ years of experience.
That would make me check the capacitors in the netgear, and the solder 
joints in the joystick.

Also note that 99.99% of the capacitor 'testing' DVM's do not measure this 
ESR phenomenon, the single most important characteristic of a capacitor.

There is a guy, was in Omaha but could have moved, that makes a 'Capacitor 
Wizard', sells for $175 (when I bought one for the tv station 15 years 
ago), which does measure this.  It measures the resistance of the capacitor 
with a 100khz test signal of about 80 millivolts.  So it can do it in 
circuit, power off of course, without making a bad cap good again.  And 
with that low a signal level, any semiconductors are out of the circuit.

We have a 3 pound coffee can nearly full at the tv station, of teeny little 
surface mounted bad caps this thing has found, probably saving us $200,000 
in replacement PCB boards over the years since I bought it.

One place to see & buy it is:
<   http://www.suburban-electronics.com/display/CAP1B/Capacitor-Wizard>

Google will find other places too. Perhaps saving a few dollars.

But to put this in perspective, at its cost, the router & game pad can be 
replaced, with enough left over for a 12 pack.  ;)

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: 
Boy!  Eucalyptus!

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Re: [Emc-users] Electronics failing in cold weather?

[Mag. Dr. Nikolaus Klepp]

Am Montag, 26. Dezember 2011 schrieb Igor Chudov:
> I had, recently, a couple of instances of electronics failing, seemingly,
> from cold weather.
>
> 1. Netgear GS-108 8 port gigabit switch failed when I left on vacation and
> let the house cool to 52 degrees F.
>
> 2. Saitek USB joystick on my CNC mill failed when the garage cooled to,
> perhaps, 40 degrees F.
>
> I am wondering, what specifically could possibly account for those
> failures, what mechanism. Thanks.

electrolytic capacitor usually fail when temperatures get near their lower 
temperature specs, which happens to be 0°C for most consumer products. In 
consequence the nominal capacity is not reached and the voltage converters 
fail.

Nik

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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[Steve Stallings]

> > The tool cutting brass is one I found amongst some cutters 
> at a clock
> > and watch show
> > It just suited the job, you can also use commercial thread mills
> > eg
> > 
> http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking
> /tapping/t
> > hread_mills/thread_mills_products.jhtml
> > 
> These of course have to be ordered per tpi, and Kennametal 
> has any pricing 
> hidden behind a login screen.  Bad dog they be, no biscuit from me.

Gene,

Maybe try eBay. Item 180765422137 is one example
from a seller who has several sizes. On the other
hand, $45 for an easy to break carbide cutter is
a bit of a thrill that I can live without.

Single tooth thread mills like item 190567056928
are also available and offer the ability to cut
a reasonable range of pitches with one tool.
Again, somewhat pricy and fragile.

Cheers,
Steve Stallings


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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[gene heskett]

On Monday, December 26, 2011 10:36:04 AM Dave Caroline did opine:

> The tool cutting brass is one I found amongst some cutters at a clock
> and watch show
> It just suited the job, you can also use commercial thread mills
> eg
> http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking/tapping/t
> hread_mills/thread_mills_products.jhtml
> 
These of course have to be ordered per tpi, and Kennametal has any pricing 
hidden behind a login screen.  Bad dog they be, no biscuit from me.

> While designed for steel but have a limited range as designed not for
> tilting to the correct thread angle
> so will produce a concave shape to the thread form if out of design
> range (I dont know the maths to show the effect)
> but my first attempt did show the error as the tool is large in
> diameter compared to thread angle
> 
> note this code lacks sensible centerline finding and b axis angle
> although #4 is the value it should be based on
> and reviewing it some comments are a bit off :)
> 
> e&oe
> 
> (metric worm cnc prog)
> (cnc preamble)
> G20 (set inches)
> G64 (?)
> G90 (set absolute)
> G94 (set inches per min)
> #=1   (#9  number of starts)
> (for mod worm calc DP for it)
> 
> #=25 (#10 DP of system)
> #=60
> #=[#/#] (d ebug, pcd of wheel #14)
> #=[[1.25-[#/2]]*2](de bug, worm pitch dia df
> #)
> #= 6 (#11 number of turns in worm)
> #=[360 * #]  (#1 set rotation degrees)
> 
> #=[1/#]   (#6 m imperial module)
> 
> 
> #=[# / #] (deb ug,q diameter factor #)
> #=[4 / #] (de bug,q diameter factor #)
> 
> #7=[3.14159625*# * #] (D EBUG,Lead =pi*1*# L=#7
> ) #8=[#/#]
> #9=[#/#]
> #2=[atan[#8]/[1] ] (debug,angle of helix #2 angle to rotate
> trunnion from vertical when I get one!!)
> #=[atan[#9]/[1] ] (deb ug,angle of helix to rotate ar
> tip #)
> #3=[#*#7] (DEB UG,length of cut #3)
> #4=[sin[#2] * #3]  (DE BUG,y=#4 offset to move to track worm
> centerline) #5=[cos[#2] * #3]  (DE BUG,shortened Z=#5 because
> tilted)
> #20=[#4]   (D EBUB,corrected direction y offset #20)
> G0 X0 Y0 Z0 (move cutter centerline lowest point in line with axis and
> touch off)
> G0 F1 A-5 (rotate blank back to start+1)
> G0 F1 A0 (rotate blank to draw center line)
> 
> G1 F.1 X-.063 Y0 Z0 A0 (move cutter to depth)
> G1 F.05 x-.063 Y[0-#20] Z[0-#5] A[0-#] (rotate blank 7
> turns)
> 
> G1 F1 X0 Y[0-#20] Z[0-#5] A[0-#] (move cutter out)
> 
> (G10 L2 P1 A0)
> 
> (G92 A-2520)
> G0 A0 (rotate blank back to start)
> G0 X0 Y0 Z0
> 
> 
> if email buggers the above see
> http://www.archivist.info/cnc/worm2.ngc
> 
Will do, thanks.
> 
> Dave Caroline
> 
> 
> -- Write once. Port to many.
> Get the SDK and tools to simplify cross-platform app development. Create
> new or port existing apps to sell to consumers worldwide. Explore the
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Cheers, Gene
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: 
  Goes (Went) over like a lead balloon.

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Re: [Emc-users] 5-axis table-table kinematics: G54 offsets

[Rudy du Preez]

Viesturs

Thanks for the response. 

Perhaps before we go any deeper, have a look at what I have done. 

I Yahoogroups, under group SA-CNC-CLUB, you will find some photos of the
5-axis machine setup and the part cut.

I tried to use a G54 in the GCODE for a C-axis offste - it did not seem to
work. I will try again.

Regards
Rudy


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[Emc-users] Electronics failing in cold weather?

[Igor Chudov]

I had, recently, a couple of instances of electronics failing, seemingly,
from cold weather.

1. Netgear GS-108 8 port gigabit switch failed when I left on vacation and
let the house cool to 52 degrees F.

2. Saitek USB joystick on my CNC mill failed when the garage cooled to,
perhaps, 40 degrees F.

I am wondering, what specifically could possibly account for those
failures, what mechanism. Thanks.
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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[Dave Caroline]

The tool cutting brass is one I found amongst some cutters at a clock
and watch show
It just suited the job, you can also use commercial thread mills
eg
http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking/tapping/thread_mills/thread_mills_products.jhtml

While designed for steel but have a limited range as designed not for
tilting to the correct thread angle
so will produce a concave shape to the thread form if out of design
range (I dont know the maths to show the effect)
but my first attempt did show the error as the tool is large in
diameter compared to thread angle

note this code lacks sensible centerline finding and b axis angle
although #4 is the value it should be based on
and reviewing it some comments are a bit off :)

e&oe

(metric worm cnc prog)
(cnc preamble)
G20 (set inches)
G64 (?)
G90 (set absolute)
G94 (set inches per min)
#=1   (#9  number of starts)
(for mod worm calc DP for it)

#=25 (#10 DP of system)
#=60
#=[#/#] (d ebug, pcd of wheel #14)
#=[[1.25-[#/2]]*2](de bug, worm pitch dia df
#)
#= 6 (#11 number of turns in worm)
#=[360 * #]  (#1 set rotation degrees)

#=[1/#]   (#6 m imperial module)


#=[# / #] (deb ug,q diameter factor #)
#=[4 / #] (de bug,q diameter factor #)

#7=[3.14159625*# * #] (D EBUG,Lead =pi*1*# L=#7 )
#8=[#/#]
#9=[#/#]
#2=[atan[#8]/[1] ] (debug,angle of helix #2 angle to rotate
trunnion from vertical when I get one!!)
#=[atan[#9]/[1] ] (deb ug,angle of helix to rotate ar
tip #)
#3=[#*#7] (DEB UG,length of cut #3)
#4=[sin[#2] * #3]  (DE BUG,y=#4 offset to move to track worm centerline)
#5=[cos[#2] * #3]  (DE BUG,shortened Z=#5 because tilted)
#20=[#4]   (D EBUB,corrected direction y offset #20)
G0 X0 Y0 Z0 (move cutter centerline lowest point in line with axis and
touch off)
G0 F1 A-5 (rotate blank back to start+1)
G0 F1 A0 (rotate blank to draw center line)

G1 F.1 X-.063 Y0 Z0 A0 (move cutter to depth)
G1 F.05 x-.063 Y[0-#20] Z[0-#5] A[0-#] (rotate blank 7 turns)

G1 F1 X0 Y[0-#20] Z[0-#5] A[0-#] (move cutter out)

(G10 L2 P1 A0)

(G92 A-2520)
G0 A0 (rotate blank back to start)
G0 X0 Y0 Z0


if email buggers the above see
http://www.archivist.info/cnc/worm2.ngc


Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[gene heskett]

On Monday, December 26, 2011 07:37:48 AM Dave Caroline did opine:

> I have cut threads that way.
> the tooling
> http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/DJCPD/PD/2009/2009_08_13_cn
> c/P1010245.JPG
> 
> I also tilt the rotary axis so the cut properly follows the helix,
> this requires some maths in the gcode to follow the tilted path
> 
> before I made that tool and also before the B axis I made a worm
> jacking the rotary to the required angle with some packing
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jbp8SJ9RxqI
> 
> Dave Caroline
> 
That is exactly what I have in mind, Dave.  What sort of a tool is that in 
the movie, and where can it be obtained?  Looks like some sort of a 
multitooth rig to be able to cut full depth in one pass.  If that tool can 
cut steel with a decent life that is, I note you are doing brass in the 
movie but this will be in a BP rifle, an un-vented 209 primer nipple TBE.
I've found a load that does sub 2" groups at 50 yards, but BH209 powder is 
so hard to light that in a rifle using #11 caps, I have to put a starter 
charge of 5 gr of RS into the hole first, then follow that with 60-90 gr of 
BH209.  Then the bullet.  But if I change the nipple to one that will put 
the full power of a std 209 primer into it, that should work w/o the duplex 
loading & that is what I want to do.  But the 209 nipples available to fit 
this one are all side vented to reduce the primers fire because the full 
jolt is too much for real black powder.  BH209 powder is actually a 
smokeless, and the cleaning required is a byproduct of having to use the 
duplex loading to get it to ignite.  I tried it once with the vented 
nipple, and had to remove the nipple and add a few kernels of RS into the 
hole, put the nipple back in.  Next trigger pull did fire, but with about a 
250 millisecond hangfire.  Bullet off the paper...

BH209 is so hard to light, I'm told it doesn't need a hazmat warning or 
fee, but its still $10/oz.  What the heck ever happened to BP being cheap 
to shoot?

Thanks.

> On Mon, Dec 26, 2011 at 8:00 AM, gene heskett  wrote:
> > Greetings;
> > 
> > I've about worn out that 7x10 I have, and its rubber tool post
> > prevents me from doing anything resembling a fine finish regardless
> > of the sharpness of the bit.  When cutting threads I have to, before
> > reversing the spindle to back away & reset to deepen the cut on the
> > next pass, back the crossfeed off a full turn to keep the bit from
> > dragging on the thread as it supposedly retraces its path backwards.
> >  I knew it was a toy when I bought it, and I'm considering its
> > replacement with something big enough that its worthwhile cnc'ing it.
> > 
> > I have a need for cutting a clean, nearly interference fitted 1/4x28
> > external thread for a distance of about 1/4", immediately adjacent to
> > a 1/2" diameter seating plane when this is screwed into its receiver.
> > 
> > I don't have an encoder on either the lathe or the mills spindle, so
> > the thought runs toward a flying cutter in the mill spindle whose tip
> > profile is that of the 60 degree included angle tooth.
> > 
> > Now, the cutter would be working on the side of the workpiece, mounted
> > with the axis vertical in a chuck on a rotary table, turning very
> > slowly as the z axis travels in 1/28 step.
> > 
> > Since I can run the z axis and a axis in lock step, what prevents me
> > from cutting this thread with the fly cutter other than finding a
> > suitable fly cutter?
> > 
> > I thought so, so where in tunket can I find such a fly cutter that is
> > actually holding a single point threading insert, perhaps an inch in
> > diameter overall.  Googling hasn't found such a beast at less than 3"
> > in diameter and many BIG bucks cost.  Or is this just another tool
> > I'll have to make, in which case it will be holding a less easily
> > fractured square piece of HSS tool steel, not a carbide chip.
> > 
> > Or is this just another idea I should forget because I'll not be able
> > to hold an edge on the HSS tool because of the impact of its striking
> > the workpiece and taking off a thou or less per revolution?
> > 
> > Thanks guys.
> > 
> > Cheers, Gene
> > --
> > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> >  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > My web page: 
> > Now I lay me down to sleep
> > I pray the double lock will keep;
> > May no brick through the window break,
> > And, no one rob me till I awake.
> > 
> > --
> >  Write once. Port to many.
> > Get the SDK and tools to simplify cross-platform app development.
> > Create new or port existing apps to sell to consumers worldwide.
> > Explore the Intel AppUpSM program developer opportunity.
> > appdeveloper.intel.com/join http://p.sf.net/sfu/intel-appdev
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
>

Re: [Emc-users] fail2ban default setup gotcha

[Mark Wendt (Contractor)]

On 12/25/2011 5:28 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
>>
>>  
> Ctrl/Alt/F1 goes to the boot-time startup screen, F2-F4 do alternate TTY
> consoles on most
> Linux distros.  Ctrl/Alt/F7 goes back to the Xwindows screen if it is
> working.
> Ctrl/Alt/backspace kills Xwindows.
>
> Jon
>
Thanks Jon!  I've created a "special" boot folder in my email client for 
tips coming my way.  The originals I had are buried somewhere in my EMC2 
email folder.  ;-)

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] fail2ban default setup gotcha

[yann jautard]

Le 25/12/2011 23:28, Jon Elson a écrit :
> Linux distros. Ctrl/Alt/F7 goes back to the Xwindows screen if it is 
> working. 

or ctrl/alt/F8 sometimes, e.g. if for some reason *dm crashed and respawned.

> Ctrl/Alt/backspace kills Xwindows.

not anymore on *buntu distros. If you want it, you need to re-activate 
it on the Xorg.conf file.

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Re: [Emc-users] 5-axis table-table kinematics: G54 offsets

[Viesturs Lācis]

2011/12/26 rudy du preez :
> I now have a working 5-axis table-table EMC2 controlled machine and have
> cut my first 7-bladed impeller (turbo-charger type with slanted and
> curved blades). However, I have to provide GCODE for all 7 blades since
> G54 type offsets do not seem to work for the C-axis, whereas they seem
> to work for x-, y- and z-axes (in WORLD mode).
>
> It would be nicer to index 51.43 deg around C-axis and then repeat the
> code for one blade 7 times. The C-axis is mounted on the A-axis which is
> mounted on the X, Y and Z axes in that order.
>
> Does anyone have an explanation for this behaviour?
>

When I was working on the robot, I learned that G54 offset does work
with A and C axes.
I guess You need to share complete details, what You did to try and
what exactly was the result You obtained.

Do I understand correctly, that Your C axis is a rotary joint, mounted
on XY table and rotating part around Z?
If that is correct, is there any particular reason, why Your solution
could not be:
1) create the g-code for one blade (without C movements); optional -
save it as a subroutine file;
2) in another file - paste blade code or call subroutine, after that
rotate C by 51.43 deg, do next blade by pasting code or calling the
same subroutine again. Repeat until all blades are done.
Note: calling subroutines will make the whole process easier to
overview and understand. E.g. if You need some changes in blade's
code, with subroutines You have to change only 1 place - subroutine
file.

Viesturs

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Re: [Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[Dave Caroline]

I have cut threads that way.
the tooling
http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/DJCPD/PD/2009/2009_08_13_cnc/P1010245.JPG

I also tilt the rotary axis so the cut properly follows the helix,
this requires some maths in the gcode to follow the tilted path

before I made that tool and also before the B axis I made a worm
jacking the rotary to the required angle with some packing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jbp8SJ9RxqI

Dave Caroline

On Mon, Dec 26, 2011 at 8:00 AM, gene heskett  wrote:
> Greetings;
>
> I've about worn out that 7x10 I have, and its rubber tool post prevents me
> from doing anything resembling a fine finish regardless of the sharpness of
> the bit.  When cutting threads I have to, before reversing the spindle to
> back away & reset to deepen the cut on the next pass, back the crossfeed
> off a full turn to keep the bit from dragging on the thread as it
> supposedly retraces its path backwards.  I knew it was a toy when I bought
> it, and I'm considering its replacement with something big enough that its
> worthwhile cnc'ing it.
>
> I have a need for cutting a clean, nearly interference fitted 1/4x28
> external thread for a distance of about 1/4", immediately adjacent to a
> 1/2" diameter seating plane when this is screwed into its receiver.
>
> I don't have an encoder on either the lathe or the mills spindle, so the
> thought runs toward a flying cutter in the mill spindle whose tip profile
> is that of the 60 degree included angle tooth.
>
> Now, the cutter would be working on the side of the workpiece, mounted with
> the axis vertical in a chuck on a rotary table, turning very slowly as the
> z axis travels in 1/28 step.
>
> Since I can run the z axis and a axis in lock step, what prevents me from
> cutting this thread with the fly cutter other than finding a suitable fly
> cutter?
>
> I thought so, so where in tunket can I find such a fly cutter that is
> actually holding a single point threading insert, perhaps an inch in
> diameter overall.  Googling hasn't found such a beast at less than 3" in
> diameter and many BIG bucks cost.  Or is this just another tool I'll have
> to make, in which case it will be holding a less easily fractured square
> piece of HSS tool steel, not a carbide chip.
>
> Or is this just another idea I should forget because I'll not be able to
> hold an edge on the HSS tool because of the impact of its striking the
> workpiece and taking off a thou or less per revolution?
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Cheers, Gene
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> My web page: 
> Now I lay me down to sleep
> I pray the double lock will keep;
> May no brick through the window break,
> And, no one rob me till I awake.
>
> --
> Write once. Port to many.
> Get the SDK and tools to simplify cross-platform app development. Create
> new or port existing apps to sell to consumers worldwide. Explore the
> Intel AppUpSM program developer opportunity. appdeveloper.intel.com/join
> http://p.sf.net/sfu/intel-appdev
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

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[Emc-users] Another off the wall thought

[gene heskett]

Greetings;

I've about worn out that 7x10 I have, and its rubber tool post prevents me 
from doing anything resembling a fine finish regardless of the sharpness of 
the bit.  When cutting threads I have to, before reversing the spindle to 
back away & reset to deepen the cut on the next pass, back the crossfeed 
off a full turn to keep the bit from dragging on the thread as it 
supposedly retraces its path backwards.  I knew it was a toy when I bought 
it, and I'm considering its replacement with something big enough that its 
worthwhile cnc'ing it.

I have a need for cutting a clean, nearly interference fitted 1/4x28 
external thread for a distance of about 1/4", immediately adjacent to a 
1/2" diameter seating plane when this is screwed into its receiver.

I don't have an encoder on either the lathe or the mills spindle, so the 
thought runs toward a flying cutter in the mill spindle whose tip profile 
is that of the 60 degree included angle tooth.

Now, the cutter would be working on the side of the workpiece, mounted with 
the axis vertical in a chuck on a rotary table, turning very slowly as the 
z axis travels in 1/28 step.

Since I can run the z axis and a axis in lock step, what prevents me from 
cutting this thread with the fly cutter other than finding a suitable fly 
cutter?

I thought so, so where in tunket can I find such a fly cutter that is 
actually holding a single point threading insert, perhaps an inch in 
diameter overall.  Googling hasn't found such a beast at less than 3" in 
diameter and many BIG bucks cost.  Or is this just another tool I'll have 
to make, in which case it will be holding a less easily fractured square 
piece of HSS tool steel, not a carbide chip.

Or is this just another idea I should forget because I'll not be able to 
hold an edge on the HSS tool because of the impact of its striking the 
workpiece and taking off a thou or less per revolution?

Thanks guys.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: 
Now I lay me down to sleep
I pray the double lock will keep;
May no brick through the window break,
And, no one rob me till I awake.

--
Write once. Port to many.
Get the SDK and tools to simplify cross-platform app development. Create 
new or port existing apps to sell to consumers worldwide. Explore the 
Intel AppUpSM program developer opportunity. appdeveloper.intel.com/join
http://p.sf.net/sfu/intel-appdev
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