RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

2008-11-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Do you have any contact info on this level such as a vendor website, model
#, cost, etc?  Much appreciated

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:06 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification


  The level I have from Macklanburg-Duncan beeps constantly at level or
  plumb and is pretty loud. You can purchase an eight inch level and then
  install that into larger frames or use it by itself.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-20 Thread Bob Kennedy
When I was a senior in high school I tried to join the football team  so I 
could workout with them before wrestling season started.  The coaches wouldn't 
let me join because they were afraid  if I ran into one of the sighted players 
I  might hurt them and they didn't want players sidelined because of an injury 
that shouldn't have happened.  

I figured football was all about running into each other but the way they 
argued my point was to appeal to my ego and at that time it worked.  Wow 
they're afraid of me!  We didn't have a great football program and to think I 
could have knocked someone out for a season was definitely inspirational.  And 
it got me out of their way and they only had that one season to worry about
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  Well, when faced with Janet and I there isn't anyone else to talk to. Janet 
looks just plain mean so they turn to me.

  The thing which is so often overlooked in these discussions is how 
unreasonable it is to expect the blind person to perform at a level of safety 
beyond the sighted. While I have no interesting in cutting off a finger or two 
it is unreasonable to expect that I cannot have the same accident or 
inattention at a critical moment that the sighted person doing the same task 
might have. Is the blind person more likely to get cancer from smoking than the 
sighted person?

  I once had to sigh a waver for income protection insurance back when I was in 
private practice that visual impairment would not be a claim for total 
disability. While I had no trouble with that concept I was bothered by not 
getting a premium discount reasoning that vision loss was a liability the 
company would never have in my case so a risk I shouldn't be paying for.

  Needless to say the insurance company didn't agree. One argument proposed was 
that I would be more likely to be accidentally injured because of my blindness. 
I asked for statistics pointing out that I most commonly traveled either on 
foot or by public transport which is statistically the safest, that I hardly 
ever drive or fly aircraft or other dangerous sports and so on.Of course Dan 
climbs perfectly inoffensive rocks and jumps out of perfectly good aircraft but 
I never do.

  Oh well, the world isn't necessarily fair. What ever the ignorant think of me 
is probably kinder than what I think of them and when I am able to remain 
mature enough to hide my feelings I also demonstrate my superiority to myself 
and anyone else observing.

  The only near reasonable argument I ever heard in my little shop class story 
was that I might pose some risk to others while moving about the shop. 
Certainly I could probably walk into the end of a board someone was pushing 
through a jointer although given the roar of most of that sort of equipment I 
doubt I would miss the possibility.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  I tried to take a shop class through the local community college. After 
  the first night, I got a call from the school saying that I couldn't take 
  the class. Both Teresa and I were signed up for three classes each, 
  several hundred bucks worth of classes. I said that if I couldn't take 
  shop class, I wanted the money back for all six classes, both Teresa and 
  me.

  They countered with forcing me to sign a waiver. I grudgingly agreed, but 
  realized pretty quickly I wasn't going to get anywhere in the class, the 
  instructor really wanted nothing to do with me. So I stopped going, and 
  vowed that I would never sign another waiver.

  I realized later that it was a stupid request. This class was for anyone. 
  Any idiot could walk in off the street, with several fingers missing from 
  previous shop accidents, and take the class without signing a waiver. But 
  I had to. Screw that!

  I love some of the stories you guys have told about your spouses or 
  girlfriends responses when people start talking to them. Teresa is far 
  too timid to say anything like that, typically I just ignore their 
  stupidity and start answering them. They eventually get the idea.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!

2008-11-20 Thread Bob Kennedy
Well first we'll all send our appreciation and pray for the best for your son.

As for your water problem, you can probably look through the archives and find 
a bunch on this topic.  We've run it around many times.

The immediate suggestion would be to pick up a wet dry shop vac while they'll 
be on sale this season.  I've used them many times in a flooding situation and 
the stronger ones will pull the water from carpet and help in drying it from 
pulling a vacuum on the carpet itself.

As for outside, there are lots of places you can start.

Do you have gutters?  Are they clean?  Is there a downspout on that corner?  If 
there is a downspout, make sure it is able to empty without restriction to the 
flow.  If draining is free flowing, you may want to extend the end several feet 
from the house.  

It sounds like the house is built on a concrete pad so you don't have the 
problem of cement blocks filling and leaking into the house below ground level.

There are various things that can be applied to cement block to water proof it, 
but that is only a bandade over the problem.  The problem is the need to drain 
water away from the house before it can build up and soak through.  

What you will need to do first is look at the ground itself on the corners 
where the water comes into the house.  The lay of the land needs to be higher 
at the house and then slope away.  If the ground is less than level it will 
collect water there.  

My first thoughts would be to dig a shallow trench around the outside and lay 
drain tile.  Drain tile is just 4 inch or larger plastic pipe with holes about 
half way around  the pipe.  The holes need to face up so water can get in the 
pipe and be carried away.  

Shallow trench as in 8 to 12 inches.  You would make a trench that has a gentle 
slope like a quarter inch per foot, fill the bottom with a couple inches of 
gravel, lay drain tile on the gravel and then fill the rest of the trench with 
gravel so the drain tile is covered.  Then you can use the remaining dirt to 
cover the gravel and form a slope away from the house for the water to run off. 
 

Lots of us have done projects like this and my way is to wrap the drain tile 
with a fabric before putting in the ground.  The fabric works as a type of 
filter keeping dirt and sand from washing into the tile and clogging it.  

Of course the tile has to continue away from the house for a ways before 
emptying out or you'll just move the problem somewhere else along the side of 
the house.  So you'll also have to decide where the lowest point is, and put in 
a T or elbow to run more pipe away from the house.  

Here is an idea to get you started and I'm sure more will follow.  Good luck


  - Original Message - 
  From: Mycell Armington 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 11:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards!


  Hello All,
  I joined this list several months ago and have just been lurking and reading 
and learning. A lot of the things I don't know about personally and I probably 
will never use, but I thought it would be good just to have a source to go to 
when needing home repair questions answered. Well, I have a problem and I need 
your counsel, please read this out and lend me your multitude of counsel. 

  First of all I'll try and explain my subject line. I live in a home that was 
built in 1962. It was added on to at one end by closing in the car 
port-/garage. Well that's another problem for another day. My immediate problem 
is when it rains in massive quantities like for 2 or 3 days and I mean heavy 
rain 10 inches or more in a 12 to 24 hour time frame the concrete foundation 
gets wet and this is only in certain areas of the house that water soaks up 
through ceramic tile. It's happened in the same places 3 times this year and 
totally saturated my carpets that are on top of the tiling. The room that this 
phenomenon is occurring in is my bedroom and it's only happening in two corners 
those corners are on the outside of the house and they are on the same side. 
The house is made of concrete block and brick and some wood siding. 

  Sorry to belabor the description but the better I describe the better you may 
be able to help me.

  I am a single mother of adult children who are scattered over different parts 
of the world. My son is a United States Marine and is currently preparing to go 
to Iraq so he can't really do anything. 

  I've asked a few people and they're saying there may be a sealant that can be 
painted on or poured on. Please help because I'm truly tired of calling for 
help to move heavy furniture around and pulling up nasty stinky carpet and 
padding and then running box fans directly through the carpet to get it to dry 
to prevent it from mildew and mold. I had someone the last time to cut the 
padding in sections and I ran the padding through the dryer. I didn't think of 
that one someone else did. Please, please 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Coat MDF

2008-11-20 Thread Bob Kennedy
I don't think I'd put oils on MDF.  If you are looking for something to seal 
with, I'd put on a few coats of urethane or some of that new 2 part varnish 
that dries super hard and is clear.  MDF probably has the flattest surface but 
it can be a sponge so you'll want to use something.  In your part of the world 
you'll need to check with your home centers or paint suppliers to see what is 
available there.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Agent86b 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:21 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Coat MDF



  Hi all,
  I have just built a new work bench.
  For the top I have used a sheet of around 1inch thick MDF. I would 
  like to put some sort of coating on this top.
  Can I use the old mixture of half Linseed Oil and half mineral Turps? 
  If so is there any likelihood of the turps interfering with the glue 
  in the MDF?
  I don't wish to use varnish or paint, as that is more expensive than 
  the way I propose. The reason I wish to put something on it at all is 
  just to help stop stuff soaking in to the MDF.
  Thanks for any advice.
  Max.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Speaking of Dealing With People

2008-11-20 Thread chiliblindman
Victor, where did you say this store is ans how far from Pa.
...bob

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-20 Thread RJ
Your comments remind me the time I cut off or nearly cut off the side of my 
thumb while splitting wood. The doctor was upset that I would be using a ax. He 
went on to say that a blind person shouldn't be doing these things. My reply 
was, That I bet he seen more sighted people who cut off their fingers than the 
blind.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-20 Thread RJ
Now you know why I don't go to Sears, unless it is a must.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  I understand the problem with Sears and I work for them...
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 8:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  I can see the reasoning behind him not wanting to sell you a blade. It wasn't 
because you were blind, but he wasn't sure of the cash you were trying to hand 
him. For at a round that time a blind counterfeiter carved out a perfect set of 
plates by hand for those twenties you were trying to give him. But Bob, if it 
makes you feel any better, I had the same problem at Sears, when trying to buy 
a 18 inch chainsaw.
  Smile,
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  There is no limit to ignorance. I was at the woodworking show a few years 
back, a huge showing of all sorts of dangerous tools for working with wood. One 
of the guys selling Forrest Saw blades was on his stage and didn't want to sell 
me a blade because he didn't know how a blind person could work a table saw and 
not lose fingers. I can't seem to resist a nasty come back sometimes and told 
the guy I didn't know how a company with such a good name would let an idiot 
represent them in the public place. I did manage to resist dropping his $150 
blade on the concrete floor. But a lot of people walked away from his display 
after they heard him. 

  Strangely enough, the next display was for Grip-Tite and the guy running the 
booth gave me a 2 by 4 and told me to run it through his table saw. I told him 
about the guy from Forrest and he couldn't believe it. 

  There are good people out there but it's always covered up by the ignorant 
ones...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

  One of our department stores had a very good special on 20 inch chainsaws 
recently, and being a
  sucker for chainsaws, I went along to buy one.

  The nasty little jumped-up salesman wouldn't sell me one unless I was 
prepared to sign a waiver to
  the effect that if injured, I would not sue them. I had no worry about 
signing such a document, but
  it was a clear case of discrimination for anyone can injure themselves with a 
chainsaw, and do those
  others have to sign a waiver? no they don't!
  Now, this is a store that sold me, without hesitation, a rotary garden hoe 
that didn't have a
  clutch, even though, for reasons of safety, I had, distinctly, said that a 
clutch it must have.
  I did not find that it had no clutch until I got it home and was attempting 
to find the safety
  feature I had demanded it * MUST have!
  When I say a * clutch, I mean that the machine can be put out of gear, so 
that the hoe tines stops
  spinning, but the motor is still running.

  Jewel

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Speaking of Dealing With People

2008-11-20 Thread RJ
Victor,

I find our local Home Depot to have this class of salesperson during the 8 to 
5. After that , I think they get their people from Lowes or Sears.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: Blind Handyman Listserv 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:54 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Speaking of Dealing With People


  Ok folks, so I'm mourning the premature death of my snow blower, and in that 
mourning and grief, my wife and I decide we're going to buy another one.

  I found a great one at a Canadian big box store called Canadian Tire, who 
sell everything from toasters to brake pads, and have auto body shops.

  I have to admit that I do most of my shopping there, as the other big box 
store's sites aren't as accessible as Canadian Tire's.

  Suffice it to say, it was a nice puppy, with a 24 inch shoot, both electric 
and manual pull start, something I've been dying to get for my wife, in case 
I'm not around to start it up, and a bit more horsepower than we had the last 
time around.

  We had decided to check out the competition, as the Canadian Tire snow blower 
was selling theirs for around 499, and buying something that large and 
expensive, I didn't want to do it blindly.

  I know, some might say that I should, if only because they make their site so 
accessible, but the fact is, if I had money o'plenty, I'd be on their doorstep 
everyday patronizing their store, especially since their version was an MTD, a 
make I know to be very reliable.

  Regardless of the site and it's great navigations, we decided to check out 
the competition in the area.

  There really are only two places that are any sort of competition to Canadian 
Tire.

  One being Home Depot, whom I don't have to tell you is everywhere nowadays, 
and the Home Depot clone that is Rona. It might sound like I'm putting Rona 
down, but the fact is, they are my big box store of choice, even more so now, 
and I'll get to that explanation in a second, but they really are cheaper than 
Home Depot for a great many things.

  I should also point out that Rona used to be much smaller, until they merged 
with Lansing Build All, then became a serious threat to Home Depot's customer 
base.

  And now, with Lowe's making an appearance up there, I think Home Depot will 
seriously have to start thinking about their pricing scheme.

  So, we decide to stop at Rona, since it's on the way to Canadian Tire, and we 
head straight for the snow blower section.

  Well, just as I had suspected earlier that day, the minute people see snow 
flakes fall to the ground, it's a mad rush to the stores to get a snow blower, 
and today's snow fall was no exception.

  In fact, Rona was pretty much sold out of most of their snow blowers, and 
only had a few left over.

  All of them were around the 1000 mark, and pretty much clones of each other, 
and we were ready to walk out to head over to Home Depot, until we met the 
seasonal associate who was handling that section this afternoon.

  He started right in on the features of the particular one we were looking at, 
and the fact that it had both electrical and manual pull start options, and 
that it was a 28 inch shoot, as opposed to the one I was talking about, which 
was only 24 inches.

  He also pointed out that the one I wanted had less horsepower than the one I 
was looking at on the show room floor, as I had the print out of the model we 
wanted from Canadian Tire.

  Eventually, Punday advised that the best thing to do was to check out 
Canadian Tire's stock, and see what they had, and if I didn't like what they 
had, he was going to be there until 6:30, so we could come back.

  We were about to take him up on his offer to check out Canadian Tire, until a 
woman eavesdropping spoke up and said not to bother, as they had already sold 
out of snow blowers, and had nothing there to even look at, let alone buy, and 
apparently, Home Depot's selection was limited to snow blowers well worth 1500 
and above, and that was much more than I wanted to spend.

  So, at this point, I told Punday that we had no choice, and we had to get 
something from Rona, but we weren't ready to shell out 1000 dollars for this 
one, not when my budget was only about 500, maybe 700 with taxes.

  Then he said something I never thought he would say.

  Keep in mind, I have always preferred the service at Rona, as they would 
invariably always speak to me, and not my wife, like I was a second class 
citizen, and whether this had anything to do with the class of sales men at the 
store, or the fact that my wife always said, ok Victor, here's the person, I'm 
going over there to do this or that, I don't know, but like I said, they've 
always spoken to me, and not her, like so many other's have experienced.

  Having said that, hearing what I heard today, just made me want to buy stock 
in Rona, if only for it's sales people.

  Punday didn't direct me to any lower priced blower, he didn't tell me that I 
had 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-20 Thread rs_denis
I have kept some of these responses to myself till now figuring there would be 
more than enough of them.  Well, that has been true in spite of which:

When I was younger, it was much more common for servers and sales persons to 
ask my wife what he wanted.  She would shrug, give a mild version of how the 
hell would I know, and require they deal with me.  Alternatively, and much 
more fun, I would often respond immediately, Wait, I'll ask him, then I would 
and then I'd communicate his response.  This would elicit some fascinating 
reactions.  Ron Denis 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  I tried to take a shop class through the local community college. After 
  the first night, I got a call from the school saying that I couldn't take 
  the class. Both Teresa and I were signed up for three classes each, 
  several hundred bucks worth of classes. I said that if I couldn't take 
  shop class, I wanted the money back for all six classes, both Teresa and 
  me.

  They countered with forcing me to sign a waiver. I grudgingly agreed, but 
  realized pretty quickly I wasn't going to get anywhere in the class, the 
  instructor really wanted nothing to do with me. So I stopped going, and 
  vowed that I would never sign another waiver.

  I realized later that it was a stupid request. This class was for anyone. 
  Any idiot could walk in off the street, with several fingers missing from 
  previous shop accidents, and take the class without signing a waiver. But 
  I had to. Screw that!

  I love some of the stories you guys have told about your spouses or 
  girlfriends responses when people start talking to them. Teresa is far 
  too timid to say anything like that, typically I just ignore their 
  stupidity and start answering them. They eventually get the idea.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people

2008-11-20 Thread Shawn Keen

ya, I love what does he want.  Like you i oftin respond with he would like a 
. . .

You usually only have to do this once and a. they are embarrassed. B. they 
get it!



- Original Message - 
From: rs_denis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


I have kept some of these responses to myself till now figuring there would 
be more than enough of them.  Well, that has been true in spite of which:

 When I was younger, it was much more common for servers and sales persons 
 to ask my wife what he wanted.  She would shrug, give a mild version of 
 how the hell would I know, and require they deal with me. 
 Alternatively, and much more fun, I would often respond immediately, 
 Wait, I'll ask him, then I would and then I'd communicate his response. 
 This would elicit some fascinating reactions.  Ron Denis
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dealing with people


  I tried to take a shop class through the local community college. After
  the first night, I got a call from the school saying that I couldn't take
  the class. Both Teresa and I were signed up for three classes each,
  several hundred bucks worth of classes. I said that if I couldn't take
  shop class, I wanted the money back for all six classes, both Teresa and
  me.

  They countered with forcing me to sign a waiver. I grudgingly agreed, but
  realized pretty quickly I wasn't going to get anywhere in the class, the
  instructor really wanted nothing to do with me. So I stopped going, and
  vowed that I would never sign another waiver.

  I realized later that it was a stupid request. This class was for anyone.
  Any idiot could walk in off the street, with several fingers missing from
  previous shop accidents, and take the class without signing a waiver. But
  I had to. Screw that!

  I love some of the stories you guys have told about your spouses or
  girlfriends responses when people start talking to them. Teresa is far
  too timid to say anything like that, typically I just ignore their
  stupidity and start answering them. They eventually get the idea.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081




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  http://www.eset.com


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

2008-11-20 Thread Dan Rossi
Alan,

I don't have any specific information.  You can google macklanburg 
duncan smart tool That should get you there.  I think amazon carries 
them.

I've just gone no mail, I'll be out of town for the next few days, so 
won't be around.

Ciao.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


[BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread mark
hey gang
got a 2002 chevy venture van
and need to change the antifreeze 
did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that is in the system
can anyone shed some light where this is located 
and seems like the radiator cap is not on top of the radiator so how do i 
refill with the fressh antifreeze
the next thing is where is the bleeder valves located to purge the air out of 
this thing thanks alot any help would be great it is getting alittle cold up 
here in n. e. pa. and do not want to freeze the block  thanks again

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audible level modification

2008-11-20 Thread Tom Fowle
Tom
Try this is you've a mind, it may well not work but easy if it does:

Go to radio shackand geta telephone pickup coil.

If you don't have a small amplifier with an 1.8Th inch input jack, get one
of those test amplifiers they sell, they're handy to have.

Plug the pickup coil into the input jack of the amp and bring the coil
near the beeper of the level.  See if the beep gets received.

Since it's  unlikely the beeper in the level is actually a magnetic device
this may not work., but if you don't mind the few bucks to try it,
it may lead you to a louder level.

Tom



RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread Larry Stansifer
Mark,

This is probably a better question for Bob but here is my two cents worth
from the corner.

The only way that you can drain that system is by removing the lower
radiator hose and stand by for the inevitable shower. There should be some
kind of a filler type cap or fitting on the top of the radiator core however
it will in no way resemble the RAD caps we are used to. Now instead of
having a traditional upper tank and pressure cap on the radiator there is an
expansion or overflow tank. When an engine overheats the coolant is forced
up a hose into this tank rather than running out on the ground. Finally
there should be a fitting on top of the thermostat housing to purge the air.
Honestly my friend I would probably take it to a trusted technician because
now days you can get hung for not disposing of coolant in the government
approved manner. Secondly pulling the hose doesn't always get all of the old
coolant out of the motor and finally if you don't get all of the air out of
the system it can create an air-lock that could cost you a motor.
The current state of the industry is to suction the old coolant out of the
system, replace the thermostat and refill with fresh coolant.
I have done this job using the lower hose and bucket routine but it is no
fun and I do not recommend it.



-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of mark
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 10:56 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze


hey gang
got a 2002 chevy venture van
and need to change the antifreeze 
did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that is in the system
can anyone shed some light where this is located 
and seems like the radiator cap is not on top of the radiator so how do i
refill with the fressh antifreeze the next thing is where is the bleeder
valves located to purge the air out of this thing thanks alot any help would
be great it is getting alittle cold up here in n. e. pa. and do not want to
freeze the block  thanks again

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread Lenny McHugh
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[BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread cheetah
ok car guys what about this.
had to replace the thermostat on my 2001 blazer.
ok a friend of mine did that and all went well.
until it came time to put back the antifreeze.
he says hmmm this has the red stuff.
well darn all I had is the green.
off to the parts store.
the guy there tells me something strange.
he asked how many miles on the blazer I tell him 90 thousand something.
he asked do you have any problems with leaks.
I say no?
he says gm has been having problems with gaskets rotting out with the red 
antifreeze.
gm claims its the gaskets and the gasket makers claim its the red antifreeze.
the parts guy says allot of people have been changing out the red for the green.

2 questions
has anyone heard of this?
and 2 is there any difference between the red and the green?
Jim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread Bob Kennedy
The only thing I can add is that refilling is done through the expansion tank.  
Most GM radiators don't have caps any longer.  It's pretty pricey to buy the 
stuff to fill the system using pressure.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 4:17 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze


  Mark,

  This is probably a better question for Bob but here is my two cents worth
  from the corner.

  The only way that you can drain that system is by removing the lower
  radiator hose and stand by for the inevitable shower. There should be some
  kind of a filler type cap or fitting on the top of the radiator core however
  it will in no way resemble the RAD caps we are used to. Now instead of
  having a traditional upper tank and pressure cap on the radiator there is an
  expansion or overflow tank. When an engine overheats the coolant is forced
  up a hose into this tank rather than running out on the ground. Finally
  there should be a fitting on top of the thermostat housing to purge the air.
  Honestly my friend I would probably take it to a trusted technician because
  now days you can get hung for not disposing of coolant in the government
  approved manner. Secondly pulling the hose doesn't always get all of the old
  coolant out of the motor and finally if you don't get all of the air out of
  the system it can create an air-lock that could cost you a motor.
  The current state of the industry is to suction the old coolant out of the
  system, replace the thermostat and refill with fresh coolant.
  I have done this job using the lower hose and bucket routine but it is no
  fun and I do not recommend it.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of mark
  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 10:56 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] drainingg and refilling antifreeze

  hey gang
  got a 2002 chevy venture van
  and need to change the antifreeze 
  did not find a petcot valve to drain the antifreeze that is in the system
  can anyone shed some light where this is located 
  and seems like the radiator cap is not on top of the radiator so how do i
  refill with the fressh antifreeze the next thing is where is the bleeder
  valves located to purge the air out of this thing thanks alot any help would
  be great it is getting alittle cold up here in n. e. pa. and do not want to
  freeze the block thanks again

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

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[BlindHandyMan] three recalls

2008-11-20 Thread Lenny McHugh
Recently there was a post about candles and a few months ago there was a 
discussion on window blinds.

1. Candela Recalls Candles Due to Fire and Burn Hazards; Sold Exclusively at 
Anthropologie Stores

NEWS from CPSC
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
November 20, 2008
Release #09-053

Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 961-9050
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

Candela Recalls Candles Due to Fire and Burn Hazards; Sold Exclusively at 
Anthropologie Stores

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in 
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of 
the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled 
products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Anthropologie Tin Candles

Units: About 225

Importer: Candela Group, of New York, N.Y.

Hazard: The candle flames could flare up out of the tin container during the 
burning of the last half inch of wax, posing a fire and burn hazard.

Incidents/Injuries: None reported.

Description: This recall involves Anthropologie tin candles. The candles 
were sold in the following four fragrances; Amber Woods - Model #14987044, 
Black Lilac - Model #14987093, Figue Tree - Model #14987085 and Red 
Currant - Model #14987051. Candles sold after October 11, 2008 are not 
affected by this recall.

Sold at: Anthropologie stores nationwide from September 2008 through October 
2008 about $20.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled tin candles and 
call Candela for a self-addressed, postage paid envelope in which to return 
the candle for a full refund.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Candela Group 
toll-free at (866) 961-9050 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through 
Friday or visit the firm's Web site at www.candelagroup.org

To see this release on CPSC's web site, please go to: 
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml09/09053.html

**

2. Near Strangulation of Child Prompts Recall to Repair Window Blinds by 
Green Mountain Vista

NEWS from CPSC
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
November 20, 2008
Release #09-051

Firm's Recall Hotline: (800) 639-1728
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

Near Strangulation of Child Prompts Recall to Repair Window Blinds by Green 
Mountain Vista

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in 
cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of 
the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled 
products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Insulated Black-Out Roller Shades and Insulated Roman 
Shades

Units: About 7,300

Manufacturer: Green Mountain Vista Inc., of Williston, Vt.

Hazard: The black-out roller shades and insulated roman shades have a 
continuous looped bead chain that when not attached to the wall or floor, 
hangs loosely by the blind, posing a fatal strangulation hazard to children.

Incidents/Injuries: CPSC received a report of a 2-year-old girl from 
Bristol, Conn., who suffered a near strangulation, June 2008, when she 
placed a loose bead cord loop around her neck and then slipped off the 
radiator where she was standing. Her 5-year-old brother lifted his sister, 
who was gasping for air, from the cord entanglement. She vomited and had 
deep neck bruising, but has since recovered from her injuries.

Description: This recall includes all insulated black-out roller shades 
(colors: white, cream, harvest, light sage) and insulated Roman shades sizes 
48, 60 and 72 (colors: white, natural, sage, sienna, blue, goldenrod, 
mahogany, terracotta). The shades have RN number 107875 printed on the care 
label of the shade and identify the manufacturer on the Installation and 
Care Instructions.

Sold at: Country Curtains, Plow  Hearth, The Linen Source, Sturbridge 
Yankee Workshop, Ann  Hope, The Sportsman's Guide, Target.com, The Curtain 
Shop of Maine, and Solutions Catalog. Sold nationwide from June 2005 through 
September 2008 for between $60 and $200.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should immediately check their window coverings to see if 
the tension device is attached. If not attached, immediately stop using the 
window coverings and contact Green Mountain Vista Inc. to receive a free 
repair kit. If the consumer is not able to install the tensioning device, 
contact Green Mountain Vista for further instructions.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Green Mountain Vista 
at (800) 639- 1728 between 8 a.m. and 4 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or 
visit the firm's Web site at www.gmvista.com

Note: CPSC reminds consumers to examine all Roman Blinds and 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread Bob Kennedy
I haven't heard of the leaking problem before.  The red antifreeze is supposed 
to be the environmentally friendly version.  The green is just a traditional 
brand.  I believe Prestone is still green, and Peak is still blue last I 
checked.  Even for those that make the traditional mix, the red seems to be for 
the kind that is somewhat safe to pets and has less poison in it.  

For those that don't know, your traditional antifreeze is very poisonous to 
animals.  If you've never spilled some or filled a drain pan and forgot to pick 
it up, and no animals came around you are very lucky.

The taste of antifreeze is very sweet and no too long ago it also contained 
arsenic.  When a dog or cat got into the drain pan they loved the taste.  And 
then the next morning there they were stiff as a board.  It really is an awful 
death for an animal to go through so if you change your own, be real sure to 
clean up when you're done.  If killing a pet isn't bad enough, what the 
government will do is worse. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 5:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze


  ok car guys what about this.
  had to replace the thermostat on my 2001 blazer.
  ok a friend of mine did that and all went well.
  until it came time to put back the antifreeze.
  he says hmmm this has the red stuff.
  well darn all I had is the green.
  off to the parts store.
  the guy there tells me something strange.
  he asked how many miles on the blazer I tell him 90 thousand something.
  he asked do you have any problems with leaks.
  I say no?
  he says gm has been having problems with gaskets rotting out with the red 
antifreeze.
  gm claims its the gaskets and the gasket makers claim its the red antifreeze.
  the parts guy says allot of people have been changing out the red for the 
green.

  2 questions
  has anyone heard of this?
  and 2 is there any difference between the red and the green?
  Jim

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze

2008-11-20 Thread Lenny McHugh
To protect my neighbor's dog as well as my guide, he has a friend that works 
at a recycle center. He borrowed a  six gallon can. the can has a very large 
port in the side and it is a thin construction. When you unscrew the plug in 
the side there is about an 8 opening. I slid the can under the petcock and 
drained the system. When done I replaced the plug. The can then stood up and 
had a spout on top to empty. The next day the guy came by with his truck and 
picked up his container for proper disposal. Not one drop ended up on the 
floor.
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze


I haven't heard of the leaking problem before.  The red antifreeze is 
supposed to be the environmentally friendly version.  The green is just a 
traditional brand.  I believe Prestone is still green, and Peak is still 
blue last I checked.  Even for those that make the traditional mix, the red 
seems to be for the kind that is somewhat safe to pets and has less poison 
in it.

For those that don't know, your traditional antifreeze is very poisonous to 
animals.  If you've never spilled some or filled a drain pan and forgot to 
pick it up, and no animals came around you are very lucky.

The taste of antifreeze is very sweet and no too long ago it also contained 
arsenic.  When a dog or cat got into the drain pan they loved the taste. 
And then the next morning there they were stiff as a board.  It really is an 
awful death for an animal to go through so if you change your own, be real 
sure to clean up when you're done.  If killing a pet isn't bad enough, what 
the government will do is worse.
  - Original Message - 
  From: cheetah
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 5:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] red antifreeze


  ok car guys what about this.
  had to replace the thermostat on my 2001 blazer.
  ok a friend of mine did that and all went well.
  until it came time to put back the antifreeze.
  he says hmmm this has the red stuff.
  well darn all I had is the green.
  off to the parts store.
  the guy there tells me something strange.
  he asked how many miles on the blazer I tell him 90 thousand something.
  he asked do you have any problems with leaks.
  I say no?
  he says gm has been having problems with gaskets rotting out with the red 
antifreeze.
  gm claims its the gaskets and the gasket makers claim its the red 
antifreeze.
  the parts guy says allot of people have been changing out the red for the 
green.

  2 questions
  has anyone heard of this?
  and 2 is there any difference between the red and the green?
  Jim

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
address for more information:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved

2008-11-20 Thread Bill Stephan
It's a good point Dale, and one I hadn't thought a lot about.  



Bill Stephan, 
Kansas City MO 
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
Phone: (816)803-2469

-original message-
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 11/19/2008 19:44

Hi,

I think I would be more concerned about what you are walking on. You don't want 
to be walking around directly on the roofing material, it won't stand up to 
that and the weather will soon be sneaking through.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 7:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved


  Tom, your paranoya is well placed. Actually, this is a manufactured room, and 
I'm waiting on specs and a determination as to whether weight is going to be a 
problem.

  Bill Stephan, 
  Kansas City MO 
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  -original message-
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] permit approved
  From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 11/19/2008 17:49

  Just being my old paranoid self, i'd wonder about the strength of a porch
  roof before railing it. but I too would love a roof platform to 
  go up on.

  Tom





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[BlindHandyMan] PEX and replacements for copper

2008-11-20 Thread Tom Vos
One of the reasons copper is going to be a thing of the past is because it's
so expensive.
You've heard stories of thieves stealing copper for the resale value.
PEX, as was noted a couple days ago, is a plastic line that has some
flexibility built into it.
For about $100 you can buy a crimping tool for putting connectors on the
end.
They are coming out with connectors that can be attached much like the
compression fittings you put on copper.  There are a couple different kinds,
so you can avoid spending the money on the crimping tool.
Note that once you put a connector on the end of PEX you will have to cut
the line to get it  off.
There's another type of plastic line.  I'm not sure of the exact spelling,
but it sounds like Weesboro, and will do the same job as PEX.
New construction is starting to use PEX for most of the inside waterlines.
If you learn to use it, it will be easier than copper because it is
flexible.
Blessings,
Tom


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]