Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do 
just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, 
there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna 
etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight 
means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will 
perform.

You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a 
windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.

 I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16” chain backed by 200’ of ⅝” nylon rode 
with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a 
problem.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:

> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a 
> roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album 
> that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the 
> exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an 
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[svpegasus38]

Joe, on Pegasus I use a 45 pound CQR with 125ft of 3/8 chain. Never worry 
about dragging. Thank god for my windlass. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Joseph Scott via CnC-List Date: Sun, May 31, 
2015 18:53To: CnClist;Cc: Joseph Scott;Subject:Stus-List Anchor SizeHello,What 
size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a roller and 
found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that says 
that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception.  We 
are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming 
and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. ThanksJoeSent from my 
iPad___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

The 35 lb'der will be okay as a "lunch hook", occasional, or whatever 
you want to call. It can even be considered big for that service.


Serious cruising where you have many more nights/year on the hook and 
very little discretion on when to stay overnight at anchor means a 
minimum 45# is in order. More chain helps too and getting the hook 
down before Happy Hour is better.


On the 35 footer, I've been summer cruising with a "temporary" 22# 
Delta plow and 10 fathoms of chain for 5 years now. I've got an 
appropriate 33# Bruce Lee once I get my bow roller & winch installed. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:53 PM 31/05/2015, you wrote:

Hello,

What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor 
on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on 
the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that 
chart seems to be the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only 
real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional 
overnight in a very protected bay.


Thanks

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I used a 35-lb CQR on my LF38 for many years on the Chesapeake Bay with only 10 
feet of chain.  It was fine except in real bad blows.  I have since changed to 
a 45-lb Bruce and will be adding a 45-lb Rocna as I prepare for long-distance 
cruising in sand bottoms--both anchors with 35 feet of chain and 5/8-inch 
diameter rodes.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On May 31, 2015, at 9:53 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a 
> roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album 
> that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the 
> exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an 
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons / TuffLuff

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

There's no rush. It's an annoyance only. I have a tiller tamer that takes care 
of the nighttime noise. It's those windless Wednesday nights following a gusty 
day where the lake takes a while to settle down. With no pressure against the 
rudder it flops around and bugs me. I've got larger issues that need attention 
before I commit to the Gudgeon project. If I can arrange the parts I'll do it 
next season. I just dropped a boat unit replacing my TuffLuff. 
Now there's a sore spot. Some guy at the Schaffer factory throws my empty Coke 
bottles into a machine, pulls a leaver, squirts out 46 feet of extrusion and 
charges me $400 for the effort. Wow. Now that's a racket!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
> bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
> around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
> problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Boatless!

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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[David Lenehan via CnC-List]

Joe,

The general rule of thumb with anchors is one pound per foot (length of
yacht).

However, that's just a guide.  If your boat is heavier than average boats
of 38 feet, take the next size up.  Shouldn't be, in your case.  The same
rule (get the next size up) applies if you have a lot of windage (no, not
from beans - from the likes of a large spray dodger or a closed in bimini)
or if you are likely to be in heavy wind conditions while at anchor.

Having said all that, keep in mind that the anchor is not the only factor.
The length and type of rode and the depth of water are big factors.  Within
reason, the more chain rode the better.

My usual approach is take a size larger and as much chain as my boat can
handle.  My last boat (a 43 footer) carried 250' of 3/8" galvanised chain
with a 54lb CQR as the primary anchor.  Never dragged the hook in any
conditions and we never used the secondary anchor.

Hope that helps.  Factors relating to your particular weather and sea
conditions are better answered by someone geographically closer than me.
And there should be plenty of them.

Best of luck,
David



On 1 June 2015 at 11:53, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a
> roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo
> album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be
> the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On May 31, 2015, at 07:47, Bill Bina via CnC-List  wrote:

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter hole. 
On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just the holes in 
the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink tubing at one time to 
make up the difference. There really is not room for anything thicker. It seems 
so loose, but it really is not much of a gap at all. Just enough for an 
annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long of I don't wedge a length of pool 
noodle between the rudder and transom before turning in for the night.

There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon holes to 
fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the pin to 7/16 inch 
to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very thin shrink tubing. Note 
that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous piece the length of the pin, as 
it will not fit through the hole in the rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a 
problem as it might seem. I may even remove the piece over next winter and have 
Garhaur or some other machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a 
model. If I take that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and 
room for replaceable generic plastic bushings.

Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
> The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
> if any to squeeze a bushing in there.
> 
> Brent
> Lake Winnipeg.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
>> machinist should be able to make them.
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>   I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my
>>   Rhodes 19.  Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J
>> 
>>   Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
>>   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good day.
>>> I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
>>   transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
>>   hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
>>   replace them.  My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
>>   anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
>>> Cheers
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27 MkV
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
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>> 
>>   ___
>> 
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>> 
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> 
> 
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Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Going to a machine shop is my alternative. I'll check out SSY. Thanks for the 
tip. I'm guessing these were custom made at the time. 

Cheers
Brent

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2015, at 9:29 PM, Mark G via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5.  The upper 
> gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double.  On 
> the 25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through 
> both gudgeons.  I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the 
> mooring.  I was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons 
> which were anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat.
> I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder 
> to a machine shop so they understood the issue.  They opened up the already 
> enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again.  
> Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the 
> desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon.  The ID of the bushings was 
> then bored to match the rod size.  I don't have any concerns with the 
> strength of it.  These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance 
> between the pin and the journal is minimized.
> I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 
> each.  They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

What brand of anchor are you looking at? Holding power varies widely
between brands. If an original CQR, I'd say it's too light; if it's a
Delta, I'd say it would be fine.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 31 May 2015 at 18:53, Joseph Scott via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a
> roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo
> album that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be
> the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks guys! The complete hose kit sounds like the right solution for me. I had 
noticed that most of the hoses seem worse for wear.

As with most of my boat projects...one thing seeems to lead to another.

Cheers,

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Mark G via CnC-List]

Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5.  The upper 
gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double.  On the 
25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through both 
gudgeons.  I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the mooring.  I 
was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons which were 
anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat.

I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder to 
a machine shop so they understood the issue.  They opened up the already 
enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again.  
Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the 
desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon.  The ID of the bushings was 
then bored to match the rod size.  I don't have any concerns with the strength 
of it.  These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance between the pin 
and the journal is minimized.

I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 each. 
 They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.___

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Re: Stus-List Lift mufflers

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I replaced my muffler several years ago. The exact replacement was not listed 
in Vernalift's catalog - but they custom built one for me so I did not need to 
changes hoses etc. Cost no more than the closest stock version. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 31, 2015, at 21:02, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ed,
>  
> I put in a Vernalift muffler a number of years ago.  I think it was a 1.5” 
> inlet and 2” outlet.  It’s small, but does the job beautifully.  I have a 
> reducer at the transom to take the 2” hose down to match the 1 ½” outlet in 
> the transom.  My 3GM30F does just fine with it.  There are a lot of 
> configurations to choose from.
>  
> http://www.centekindustries.com/vernaliftfig2.html
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
> Levert via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edward Levert
> Subject: Stus-List Lift mufflers
>  
>  
> In the removal of the mixing elbow on a Yanmar 3gm 30F to clear a complete 
> blockage, inspection of the lift muffler dictates its replacement. Any brand 
> recommendations and dealers? Exhaust hose is 1 5/8ths. The Vernalift muffler 
> for that size hose is specked for 10 hp diesel. 
>  
> 
> 
> Ed
> Briar Patch
> C&C 34 # 336
> New Orleans, la 
>  
>  
> 
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Stus-List Anchor Size

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Hello,

What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a roller 
and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album that 
says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the exception.  
We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an afternoon of swimming 
and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 

Thanks

Joe

Sent from my iPad
___

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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Rob, Bruno, have a look at the instructions here:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Edson/EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF

The material was ordered from mcmaster carr. I used the recommended black
loctite. Can't now find the link or remember but I'm fairly certain I found
the instructions on this list.
More reading (including a link to the product page):
https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/msg20988.html

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto




On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 9:33 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Edsonmarine.com now has videos on servicing their pedestals; removing the
> brake and others.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"robert" , "mike amirault" <
> amira...@eastlink.ca>
> *Sent: *Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:38:43 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal
>
> I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never had
> the nerve to install it.  The Dansforth compass slips out of the binnacle
> easy enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me.
>
> What happens after the compass is removed?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.
>
>  I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big
> enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.
>
>  Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable
>> mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour.
>> However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake
>> pads will not help much.
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>> C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
>> St Margarets Bay, NS
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Edsonmarine.com now has videos on servicing their pedestals; removing the brake 
and others. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert" , "mike amirault"  
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:38:43 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal 

I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never had the 
nerve to install it. The Dansforth compass slips out of the binnacle easy 
enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me. 

What happens after the compass is removed? 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: 



I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake. 

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big enough 
to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list. 

Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable 
mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour. However, if 
the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake pads will not help 
much. 
Good luck. 
Mike Amirault 
C&C33 mkii "Lovely Cruise" 
St Margarets Bay, NS 

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Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- ThankYouListers!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

keep in mind that all electronics work on smoke – you let the smoke out and 
they stop working. The only solution is to replace the part (assuming that the 
new one has enough smoke inside) or to capture the released smoke and stuff it 
back into the device. But that last option is not that easy.

Marek

From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- ThankYouListers!

I for one have let the smoke out of wires on a couple of occasions. Those wires 
hold a lot of smoke. 



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--

From: S Thomas via CnC-List

Date: Sun, May 31, 2015 09:30

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: S Thomas;

Subject:Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!

 
Ahh the "smoke test". 
Fred, you speak like a true old time electronics hobbyist. 
There comes a time in every project when you just have to plug it in and see 
what happens!

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Frederick G Street 
  Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 11:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!

  Edd — just remember that where electrical systems are concerned: Tune for 
Minimum Smoke.   :^)


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 31, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers, 

Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the group 
and, of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished the 
electrical upgrade on the Enterprise.

See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg 

I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t have 
done this without you. 

By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / 
starting battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right up. 

All the best,

Edd


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Re: Stus-List Lift mufflers

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ed,

 

I put in a Vernalift muffler a number of years ago.  I think it was a 1.5” 
inlet and 2” outlet.  It’s small, but does the job beautifully.  I have a 
reducer at the transom to take the 2” hose down to match the 1 ½” outlet in the 
transom.  My 3GM30F does just fine with it.  There are a lot of configurations 
to choose from.

 

http://www.centekindustries.com/vernaliftfig2.html

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Stus-List Lift mufflers

 

 

In the removal of the mixing elbow on a Yanmar 3gm 30F to clear a complete 
blockage, inspection of the lift muffler dictates its replacement. Any brand 
recommendations and dealers? Exhaust hose is 1 5/8ths. The Vernalift muffler 
for that size hose is specked for 10 hp diesel. 

 





Ed

Briar Patch

C&C 34 # 336

New Orleans, la 

 

 

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Stus-List Lift mufflers

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

> In the removal of the mixing elbow on a Yanmar 3gm 30F to clear a complete
> blockage, inspection of the lift muffler dictates its replacement. Any
> brand recommendations and dealers? Exhaust hose is 1 5/8ths. The Vernalift
> muffler for that size hose is specked for 10 hp diesel.
>
>
>  Ed
>
> Briar Patch
C&C 34 # 336
New Orleans, la

>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[robert via CnC-List]

I bought an Edson Brake Pad Repair Kit a few years back but have never 
had the nerve to install it.  The Dansforth compass slips out of the 
binnacle easy enough, but after that, it gets a bit intimidating for me.


What happens after the compass is removed?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-31 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big 
enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a
reasonable mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less
than an hour. However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly
worn, the new brake pads will not help much.
Good luck.
Mike Amirault
C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[robert via CnC-List]

Sam:

In an earlier post, I tried to steer Mike in that direction.that 
hose is as you say "a complex shape" and trying to fit a normally 
straight hose in those contortions is not something I would look forward 
to.especially when there is a simple solution.buy a specifically 
designed/shaped Yanmar hose.


I went a step further and took Yanmar up on an offer to purchase all the 
engine hoses as a complete package..I figured, sometime or another, 
I will need a replacement hose for the rest of the engine on a 30 year boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-31 7:05 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:

‎The hose from pump outlet to heat exchanger is quite a complex shape, with 
some tight clearances around the pulleys. I'd fork out for a Yanmar hose (I 
did). If the first one lasted 30 years, this one will probably see you out.

sam :-)
   Original Message
From: S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

Ordinary automotive heater hose will work fine, and it will last about as
long as it does in a car, which is quite a while. Most of us don't drive
around in 30 year old cars, but we do sail around in 30 year old boats, so
the fact that the original hoses are getting tired shouldn't deter us from
using the same type as original hoses. Silicone hose is available from speed
shops, and the blue or green colour would look cool too, but at a price. It
has more heat and chemical resistance, but with slightly less mechanical
strength, so the tube walls are made thicker.

Steve Thomas
C&C20 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
On the hard, in the rain.

- Original Message -
From: "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 10:33
Subject: Stus-List Recirculating pump


Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating
pump. I have a Yanmar 2GM20F. I decided to tackle the job myself and
yesterday I removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed
that most of them also need replacing.

Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:

We have the same enginea 1984 modela few years back, I just 
bought the whole hose replacement kit from Yanmar and replaced all the 
engine hoses.   With all the Yanmar hoses specifically cut and fit for 
its intended purpose, it was a relatively easy job.  And now we have 
peace of mind.  I don't remember the exact cost but it was not 
outrageous for every engine hose.and even if you don't change them 
all at the same time, you will have it in the 'vault' should an 
emergency hose situation arise.


Steve has a good idea as well automotive heater hose will work just 
fine.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-31 12:31 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
Ordinary automotive heater hose will work fine, and it will last about 
as long as it does in a car, which is quite a while. Most of us don't 
drive around in 30 year old cars, but we do sail around in 30 year old 
boats, so the fact that the original hoses are getting tired shouldn't 
deter us from using the same type as original hoses. Silicone hose is 
available from speed shops, and the blue or green colour would look 
cool too, but at a price. It has more heat and chemical resistance, 
but with slightly less mechanical strength, so the tube walls are made 
thicker.


Steve Thomas
C&C20 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
On the hard, in the rain.

- Original Message - From: "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" 


To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 10:33
Subject: Stus-List Recirculating pump


Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant 
recirculating pump. I have a Yanmar 2GM20F.  I decided to tackle the 
job myself and yesterday I removed the old pump. While disconnecting 
the hoses, I noticed that most of them also need replacing.


Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List 2015 West Coast Rendezvous

[svpegasus38]

Thanks for the update, I was wondering when it was. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Jim Watts via CnC-ListDate: Sun, May 31, 
2015 10:41To: 1 CnC List;Cc: Jim Watts;Subject:Stus-List 2015 West Coast 
Rendezvous
Just in case anyone on the left coast isn't on our mailing list, the full RDV 
information packet is now online. Go to http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/ for more 
details. 
We have missed 3 in a row, we are going to be there this year. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎The hose from pump outlet to heat exchanger is quite a complex shape, with 
some tight clearances around the pulleys. I'd fork out for a Yanmar hose (I 
did). If the first one lasted 30 years, this one will probably see you out. 

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

Ordinary automotive heater hose will work fine, and it will last about as 
long as it does in a car, which is quite a while. Most of us don't drive 
around in 30 year old cars, but we do sail around in 30 year old boats, so 
the fact that the original hoses are getting tired shouldn't deter us from 
using the same type as original hoses. Silicone hose is available from speed 
shops, and the blue or green colour would look cool too, but at a price. It 
has more heat and chemical resistance, but with slightly less mechanical 
strength, so the tube walls are made thicker.

Steve Thomas
C&C20 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
On the hard, in the rain.

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 10:33
Subject: Stus-List Recirculating pump


Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating 
pump. I have a Yanmar 2GM20F. I decided to tackle the job myself and 
yesterday I removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed 
that most of them also need replacing.

Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Have you checked with Rig-Rite, they always seem to have what I'm looking for? 

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina
Subject: Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter 
hole. On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just 
the holes in the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink 
tubing at one time to make up the difference. There really is not room 
for anything thicker. It seems so loose, but it really is not much of a 
gap at all. Just enough for an annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long 
of I don't wedge a length of pool noodle between the rudder and transom 
before turning in for the night.

There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon 
holes to fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the 
pin to 7/16 inch to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very 
thin shrink tubing. Note that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous 
piece the length of the pin, as it will not fit through the hole in the 
rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a problem as it might seem. I may 
even remove the piece over next winter and have Garhaur or some other 
machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a model. If I take 
that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and room for 
replaceable generic plastic bushings.

Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
> The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
> if any to squeeze a bushing in there.
>
> Brent
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
>> Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
>> machinist should be able to make them.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>> I would try nylon bushings before replacing. Had them on my
>> Rhodes 19. Jerry. 27mkv. J&J
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Good day.
>> > I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
>> transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
>> hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
>> replace them. My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
>> anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
>> > Cheers
>> >
>> > Brent Driedger
>> > 27 MkV
>> > Lake Winnipeg.
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
>> to the bottom of page at:
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>> >
>>
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Had the same problem on my Mirage 25. I curled a thin piece of stainless shim 
stock around the pintle and slid it into the gudgeon.  Worked fine for several 
years until I sold the boat.___

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Stus-List Fixed overhead hatch - C&C 32

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

The later 32s had an opening port in the ceiling mid-ship. The earlier
ones, at least mine, are fixed. Just a piece of plexi bonded in somehow.

Has anyone replaced this with an opening port?
I figure it'll be time to reseal that thing soon it's starting to show
signs of letting water in, a drop or two when it rains. Digging it out
looks daunting so I figure it's going to be a job one way or the other I
may as well cough up a few bucks for an opening port and stick that in
there "while I'm at it".

Anyone done this with theirs?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I have brake pad material left over from when I relined my wheel brake.

I'll happily share the left overs with listers. I can send a piece big
enough to do both brake pads for the cost of shipping. Email me off list.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:48 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Well, it doesn't take an expert to install it. Anyone with a reasonable
> mechanical aptitude should be able to do this in less than an hour.
> However, if the knurling on the brass gear is badly worn, the new brake
> pads will not help much.
> Good luck.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 mkii  "Lovely Cruise"
> St Margarets Bay, NS
>
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Stus-List 2015 West Coast Rendezvous

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Just in case anyone on the left coast isn't on our mailing list, the full
RDV information packet is now online. Go to http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
for more details.
We have missed 3 in a row, we are going to be there this year.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!

[svpegasus38]

I for one have let the smoke out of wires on a couple of occasions. Those 
wires hold a lot of smoke. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: S Thomas via CnC-ListDate: Sun, May 31, 2015 
09:30To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: S Thomas;Subject:Re: Stus-List New 
Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!Ahh the "smoke test". Fred, 
you speak like a true old time electronics hobbyist. There comes a time in 
every project when you just have to plug it in and see what happens! Steve 
ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON   - Original Message -   From:   
Frederick G   Street via CnC-List   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   Cc: Frederick G 
Street   Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 11:58  Subject: Re: Stus-List New 
Electrical   System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!  
Edd — just remember that where electrical systems are   concerned: Tune for 
Minimum Smoke.   :^)
  
Fred Street --   Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) --   Bayfield,   WI
On May 31, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Listers,
Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the 
group and, of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished 
the electrical upgrade on the Enterprise.
See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg  
   
I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t 
have done this without you. 
By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / 
starting battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right
 up. 
All the best,
Edd
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Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!

[Andrew Frame via CnC-List]

I built a lightsaber when I was 16, unintentionally.

It was *supposed* to be a 40-meter CW transmitter, but I made an error 
etching the circuit board, and that tube glowed BRIGHT purple when the 
high voltage hit it.


Thus my delight that my 24' has a minimal electrical system (that's 
getting overhauled, too).




On 05/31/2015 12:30 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

Ahh the "smoke test".
Fred, you speak like a true old time electronics hobbyist.
There comes a time in every project when you just have to plug it in and see 
what happens!

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
   - Original Message -
   From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Cc: Frederick G Street
   Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 11:58
   Subject: Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank 
YouListers!


   Edd — just remember that where electrical systems are concerned: Tune for 
Minimum Smoke.   :^)


   Fred Street -- Minneapolis
   S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


 On May 31, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 Listers,


 Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the group 
and, of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished the 
electrical upgrade on the Enterprise.


 See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg


 I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t have 
done this without you.


 By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / 
starting battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right up.


 All the best,


 Edd




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Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Ahh the "smoke test". 
Fred, you speak like a true old time electronics hobbyist. 
There comes a time in every project when you just have to plug it in and see 
what happens!

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Frederick G Street 
  Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 11:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank YouListers!


  Edd — just remember that where electrical systems are concerned: Tune for 
Minimum Smoke.   :^)


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On May 31, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Listers,


Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the group 
and, of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished the 
electrical upgrade on the Enterprise.


See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg 


I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t have 
done this without you. 


By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / 
starting battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right up. 


All the best,


Edd




--


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Re: Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank You Listers!

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — just remember that where electrical systems are concerned: Tune for 
Minimum Smoke.   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 31, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the group 
> and, of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished the 
> electrical upgrade on the Enterprise.
> 
> See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg 
>  
> 
> I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t have done 
> this without you. 
> 
> By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / starting 
> battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right up. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd

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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Ordinary automotive heater hose will work fine, and it will last about as 
long as it does in a car, which is quite a while. Most of us don't drive 
around in 30 year old cars, but we do sail around in 30 year old boats, so 
the fact that the original hoses are getting tired shouldn't deter us from 
using the same type as original hoses. Silicone hose is available from speed 
shops, and the blue or green colour would look cool too, but at a price. It 
has more heat and chemical resistance, but with slightly less mechanical 
strength, so the tube walls are made thicker.


Steve Thomas
C&C20 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
On the hard, in the rain.

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 10:33
Subject: Stus-List Recirculating pump


Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating 
pump. I have a Yanmar 2GM20F.  I decided to tackle the job myself and 
yesterday I removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed 
that most of them also need replacing.


Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter 
hole. On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just 
the holes in the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink 
tubing at one time to make up the difference. There really is not room 
for anything thicker. It seems so loose, but it really is not much of a 
gap at all. Just enough for an annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long 
of I don't wedge a length of pool noodle between the rudder and transom 
before turning in for the night.


There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon 
holes to fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the 
pin to 7/16 inch to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very 
thin shrink tubing. Note that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous 
piece the length of the pin, as it will not fit through the hole in the 
rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a problem as it might seem. I may 
even remove the piece over next winter and have Garhaur or some other 
machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a model. If I take 
that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and room for 
replaceable generic plastic bushings.


Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
if any to squeeze a bushing in there.

Brent
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
machinist should be able to make them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my
Rhodes 19.  Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Good day.
> I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
replace them.  My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
> Cheers
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27 MkV
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
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Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating pump. I 
have a Yanmar 2GM20F.  I decided to tackle the job myself and yesterday I 
removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed that most of 
them also need replacing.

Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii 
Toronto 

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Stus-List New Electrical System is Installed -- Thank You Listers!

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Just wanted to pass along my thanks to the collective wisdom of the group and, 
of course, to Stu for putting us all together. I have finished the electrical 
upgrade on the Enterprise.

See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg 
 

I try appreciate everyone’s advice, diagrams and warnings. Couldn’t have done 
this without you. 

By the way, I added an additional battery to see if the deep cycle / starting 
battery thing was the issue. The (impulse) engine started right up. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space if any 
to squeeze a bushing in there. 

Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent 
> machinist should be able to make them.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my Rhodes 19.  
>> Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Good day.
>> > I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom 
>> > hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I 
>> > believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them.  My web search 
>> > is leading me nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you 
>> > use.
>> > Cheers
>> >
>> > Brent Driedger
>> > 27 MkV
>> > Lake Winnipeg.
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> > bottom of page at:
>> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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> 
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