Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48
I would consider doing all the mounts as well. Evidently someone had noticed that the vetus mounts on my boat were failing so instead of replacing them they manufactured a 5/8ths spacer for the front. This allowed for the continued use of old smooshy mounts. It probably kept things aligned for a day or two but once the old mounts started carrying more of the load I'm confident that they just smooshed down more. Besides old mounts i found an engine mount bracket loose. Once the rattling from the bracket and mounts were corrected then i could hear the lifters ticking away. Fixed them too. Add new sound down insulation and a intake air silencer and the whole thing sounds so much better. You can still tell the engine is running but now I can at least work/check on it without hearing protection and holding a conversation in the cockpit or cabin is not out of the question. Torque specs are available. If you don't have them just ask and I'll get them for you. Josh On Aug 12, 2015 2:37 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh you have great photos of the job, as usual. Here are some pics of my existing mounts: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28usp=sharing The Vetus mounts don't look very good. I have heard people like the captive attributes of the PYIs, and the oil/fuel shielding. The oil/fuel shielding doesn't seem like a big deal to me because the Yanmar OEMs are shielded from the top as well, and it doesn't appear the engine mounts have ever had oil or fuel spraying in from the side on them anyway. The captive aspect is nice, but considering the Yanmar ones I have now are probably original, they lasted 31 years and are still in good enough shape that I wouldn't worry about the engine flying off. The main selling point of the Yanmar one is I read a couple forum posts where people said the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration dampening - meaning less vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor. I don't need to do the realignment because the mechanic I'm paying to do the transmission reinstall will do that. That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 5:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: -- Forwarded message -- From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2015 05:48:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement I replaced all 4 of mine 2 winters ago with PYI. They are captured so even if/when the rubber breaks down or delaminates the mount will still hold the engine. Yanmar even recognizes the possibility of a torn engine mount and recommends installing a heavy gauge twist tie to prevent the engine from coming loose. On one boat we looked at, the dripless shaft seal bellows were weak but worked while idle or forward at low RPM. At high RPM the engine was able to thrust the engine forward enough on the weakened stock yanmar mounts to allow the shaft seal to spray. The PYI capturing prevents excess engine movement if the rubber breaks down and are stainless frames to prevent rust. The top creates a shroud so that any fuel or oil is directed away from the rubber to help prevent the rubber from breaking down too. I think they were a little cheaper too. If you would like I have a brand new, never installed, yanmar mount I would be willing to sell. The install on mine was only made possible by removing the mounting brackets from the engine. I did them one at a time so the engine was always supported on three corners. I would use a sharpie to trace the original mounts just to give you a guide on the new ones. The suggestion made to me was to use a deflated basketball to jack the engine. I had already finished the job before acquiring a basketball so I never tried it out but it would have made the job easier. My boat came with Vetus engine mounts. I think they were built with a hydraulic dampening fluid inside. When i got the boat they were oozing. You can see pictures of the new ones installed and the old ones removed at the following link. https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit It was my first alignment and took some though with regard to how to get the engine to move properly. The basketball would have probably been helpful. Finding the correct wrench combination to reach all the places was a challenge. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Stus-List 37+ rod rigging size
Anybody know the rod size for the standing rigging of a 37+ with the tall rig? I tried to measure it but evidently my vernier caliper usage skills are poor. I'm looking to buy/borrow a Loos RT-10 but need the rod size to make sure i get the correct one. Yes, on the side is a rod gauge but i don't want to get committed to a $500 tool just to find out its the wrong one and won't fit my rod. My measurements for the 2 different rod sizes are 5.1mm and 7.25mm or 0.203 inches and 0.279. None of the measurements are appropriate which makes it impossible to tell if the rod is standard or metric. Any sources for borrowing a tension gauge would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
[Oops, sorry about the Digest subject line, forgot to rename it before sending my prior mail] Where would you slide the angle iron? Under the rear mounts? The forward mounts are the ones visible in the picture in the link I sent (in the drivetrain photo) - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28 Yes it is a v-drive, so that's fwd and the rear of the engine. Those are the mounts I want to remove. The very bottom of the engine (oil pan) has only about 1/4 clearance above the prop shaft log so I suppose I could put something in there. I figured out today that lag screws are like wood screws, and your issue with them might be that in theory they could pull out of the stringers. I don't know what the current screws securing the mount to stringer are, but hopefully they are lag screws because otherwise I don't know how I'd get them out. I'll find out when I take them out. Anyway, sounds like this is a get-in-there-and-experiment type of job, so I'll start trying some of these ideas when I have time this Sunday. On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 1:49 PM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. Bingo. Based on your pictures, are you able to slide a piece of angle iron under the rear mounts to create a lifting point? Also, does your boat have a V drive or did I interpret the pics incorrectly? I started a response to your question regarding my comments on lag bolts and other engine mount issues. I spent the last two days on Calypso laminating up a large repair area (7 ½ sq. feet, close to a gallon of resin) so I am backed up a bit at me day job. I should get it out later today. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Mine were bolts not lag screws. I've never seen lag screws used. Mine are either tapped right into the fiberglass or there is a nut or backing plate embedded into the stringer. I looked at generic torque spec charts for the size bolt I had and torqued them approximately once everything was aligned. With only 1/4 clearance it sounds like a perfect candidate for the basketball as a jack trick. You might have to move from side to side instead of front and back as i had envisioned. Josh On Aug 12, 2015 5:12 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: [Oops, sorry about the Digest subject line, forgot to rename it before sending my prior mail] Where would you slide the angle iron? Under the rear mounts? The forward mounts are the ones visible in the picture in the link I sent (in the drivetrain photo) - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28 Yes it is a v-drive, so that's fwd and the rear of the engine. Those are the mounts I want to remove. The very bottom of the engine (oil pan) has only about 1/4 clearance above the prop shaft log so I suppose I could put something in there. I figured out today that lag screws are like wood screws, and your issue with them might be that in theory they could pull out of the stringers. I don't know what the current screws securing the mount to stringer are, but hopefully they are lag screws because otherwise I don't know how I'd get them out. I'll find out when I take them out. Anyway, sounds like this is a get-in-there-and-experiment type of job, so I'll start trying some of these ideas when I have time this Sunday. On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 1:49 PM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. Bingo. Based on your pictures, are you able to slide a piece of angle iron under the rear mounts to create a lifting point? Also, does your boat have a V drive or did I interpret the pics incorrectly? I started a response to your question regarding my comments on lag bolts and other engine mount issues. I spent the last two days on Calypso laminating up a large repair area (7 ½ sq. feet, close to a gallon of resin) so I am backed up a bit at me day job. I should get it out later today. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Trimming the main
All 4 batters are full and adjustable. This is what I have on Calypso's mainsail plus it is an all conditions weight of a Pentax like cloth. The battens terminate into Harken Batt cars. The sail includes 3 reef points and a flatting reef. This main is not particularly responsive in TWS below 5 knots. With the adjustable full length battens it has been my experience that in lighter air the battens will mask some of the signs that the sail is out of trim. I use the much of the same trimming methods described by others responding to your question, especially the telltales off the top two battens. I will add that when pinching up below another boat I have brought the boom above center and slightly over trimmed the main to throw a little extra dirty air their way. If I am in a cranky mood I will ask the crew to work up a fart or two so the bad air also stinks. What I have not tested enough is changing the tension of the battens for different wind strengths. When we have Calypso back in sailing condition, improving our light air performance is high on the priority list and the main sail near the top of that list. I expect we will end up with a lighter newer design of mainsail for full on racing and use the current sail for higher wind forecasts and cruising. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 6:52 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Re: Stus-List Trimming the main All 4 batters are full and adjustable.I am certainly going to have to play more with boom position. I have rarely put the boom right on centerline as it just hasn't felt fast, but I will do some actual comparative measurements. Probably comes from my dinghy experience where it is never on centerline. Usually I have it a few inches (2-6) off center at the rear in everything but heavy air. Dave On Aug 11, 2015, at 6:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, Is your main a 3 + 1? That is, top full batten and 3 partials below. If so, you should focus on the second, or top partial batten not the top full batten. Upwind, boom on centerline, second batten guideline: Light breeze - slightly hooked to weather. Moderate breeze - parallel to boom. Heavy breeze - twisted off to leeward to reduce heel. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 11, 2015, at 3:23 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have read in several places that one guideline for mainsail trim is to make the upper batten parallel with the boom. My upper batten is full length with adjustable tension, so it is curved. In this situation, what part of the batten would theoretically want to be parallel with the boom? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger
Dwight, Very logical method. I may try that too. Chuck - Original Message - From: dwight veinot via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight dwight...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:34:44 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the heat exchanger on my Universal M4-30. I took the easy way out and used chemicals and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from around 1 gallon per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute after cleaning at idle (1000 rpm). Here is a summary of what I did. I disconnected the inlet hose to the salt water pump and tied it off high above the waterline so I did not have to close the hull valve which is not located in the easiest of places to reach on Alianna. I removed the pencil zinc from the heat exchanger and inserted a blank plug. I bought 4L of concentrated (31.45%) muriatic acid (same as hydrochloric acid) for about $10 from the local hardware store and I diluted 2L of that concentrated acid 1 acid to 5 fresh water in a 3 gallon plastic bucket...it is important to always add acid to water (just like the alphabet goes A to W) and also to have a ready supply of water to flush if you accidentally get some on your skin or in your eyes and also be careful not to inhale fumes when you open the concentrate container. My first degree was Hons Chem and I had many years of advising Dockyard staff in the chemical cleaning facility for the Canadian Navy so I have a fair knowledge of chemicals and their interaction with metals and their safe use. So I ran the engine up with a section of hose from the salt water pump into the bucket of acid mix and introduced about a gallon of the mix into the heat exchanger and then stopped the engine. Let that soak for 10 minutes and then started the engine again and introduced a second gallon of acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 10 minutes. When the first batch exited the exhaust it was a dirty rust yellow color and the flow exiting the exhaust already appeared much increased. Then after 10 minutes soaking with the second batch I started the engine and introduced a third gallon of acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 5 more minutes. The effluent from the exhaust got cleaner after the second and third soaks and after 3 soaks it had no visible color. Then I reconnected the hose for saltwater intake to the pump and ran the engine on idle for about an hour. while I measured more accurately the water flow out the exhaust which was over 3 times the rate before the cleaning at over 3 gallons per minute on idle. I suppose the real test will come when I steam into my first head wind and want the engine running at 3000 rpm or better for more power but for now I feel quite assured that my over heat issue has been addressed. I will replace the pencil zinc later but I must say it does not get wasted that quickly since it has been insatlled for nearly 2 seasons now and still seems to be quite intact so I guess it would do 3 seasons at least. Anyway this process took about an hour, plus the celebration time while the engine was running on idle after the cleaning and all seems well. My thought is that acid cleaning is a lot easier and probably more effective than mechanical cleaning with wooden dowels or wires. I will now do this procedure (probably only one soaking) on a more regular basis because I really think it did an excellent job. I believe phosphoric acid might also do a good cleaning but it was not readily availbale without going to the big city. I am a happy sailor tonight. Thanks to eveyone for the helpful input, especially that video on Rydlyme from Chuck which Robert drew to my attention. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 8:52 PM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Rick, how did replacing the pressure cap on the fresh water side solve your problem. I have never checked the thermostat but the hose clamps do not appear to be leaking...there is an overflow drain right below the pressure cap. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 12:30 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote Dwight, I have an M35B (which is a newer engine but appears similar to the M4-30) in Imzadi, and my process for cleaning the heat exchanger is slightly different than Chuck’s but accomplishes the same thing. My heat exchanger is athwart the aft end of the engine. Access to the heat exchanger is only practical through the cockpit locker on the starboard side. Both cleaning the exchanger and changing the pencil zinc are done from down in that locker. The end cap of the exchanger on the port side of the boat is almost impossible
Re: Stus-List 37+ rod rigging size
Ken Heaton comes through again! He says, look at the owners manual. and there it is #6 and #12 rod which equals 0.198 and 0.281. Which means I would be in the market for the smallest standard Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge. Anybody know where to get one cheap or have one they are looking to part with? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 12, 2015 7:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anybody know the rod size for the standing rigging of a 37+ with the tall rig? I tried to measure it but evidently my vernier caliper usage skills are poor. I'm looking to buy/borrow a Loos RT-10 but need the rod size to make sure i get the correct one. Yes, on the side is a rod gauge but i don't want to get committed to a $500 tool just to find out its the wrong one and won't fit my rod. My measurements for the 2 different rod sizes are 5.1mm and 7.25mm or 0.203 inches and 0.279. None of the measurements are appropriate which makes it impossible to tell if the rod is standard or metric. Any sources for borrowing a tension gauge would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 37+ rod rigging size
Hi Josh, Newport Nautical Supply has one on consignment for about $250 last time I was there (a couple of weeks ago). They may ship, not sure. Chuck B CC 34 Elusive Somerset, MA Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2015, at 8:51 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken Heaton comes through again! He says, look at the owners manual. and there it is #6 and #12 rod which equals 0.198 and 0.281. Which means I would be in the market for the smallest standard Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge. Anybody know where to get one cheap or have one they are looking to part with? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 12, 2015 7:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anybody know the rod size for the standing rigging of a 37+ with the tall rig? I tried to measure it but evidently my vernier caliper usage skills are poor. I'm looking to buy/borrow a Loos RT-10 but need the rod size to make sure i get the correct one. Yes, on the side is a rod gauge but i don't want to get committed to a $500 tool just to find out its the wrong one and won't fit my rod. My measurements for the 2 different rod sizes are 5.1mm and 7.25mm or 0.203 inches and 0.279. None of the measurements are appropriate which makes it impossible to tell if the rod is standard or metric. Any sources for borrowing a tension gauge would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Patrick, Where would you slide the angle iron? Under the rear mounts? The forward mounts are the ones visible in the picture in the link I sent (in the drivetrain photo) Yes it is a v-drive, so that's fwd and the rear of the engine. Those are the mounts I want to remove. The very bottom of the engine (oil pan) has only about 1/4 clearance above the prop shaft log so I suppose I could put something in there. Lifting the engine: When I mentioned using the angle iron I had the engine perspective reversed. I do not recommend you put a load on the prop shaft log unless you are certain it is strong enough. Is there room to put some lumber alongside the shaft log to take most of the load? I have pulled upward with a block and tackle off the boom on several boats that had a lifting eye and clear access. I could not determine from the pictures if you have lifting access to the boom. If you do and use a block and tackle off the boom, support the boom with the main halyard not the topping lift. I know a guy that broke a topping lift that way. I figured out today that lag screws are like wood screws, and your issue with them might be that in theory they could pull out of the stringers. I don't know what the current screws securing the mount to stringer are, but hopefully they are lag screws because otherwise I don't know how I'd get them out. I'll find out when I take them out. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. Lag bolts: When I earlier referred to poor quality engine mount bolts I was trying to keep the story short. What I found was a mix of SS lag bolts and miss-threaded or stripped bolts. A prior owner used likely the lag bolts when the originals stripped out. I went up a size in bolt and to a more coarse thread and re-tapped the original holes. I installed one engine mount at a time using the other three to keep the engine under control and to give a good base line for mount location. I used the scissor jack to support and raise/lower the engine in small increments. Looking at your pictures I expect you have bolts tapped into the steel channel wrapping the top of the engine beds. It is also possible there is a nut welded under the steel channel wrapped over the engine beds. Before putting a big wrench on those bolts I recommend using PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil and maybe some gentle heat to reduce the chance of breaking the bolt heads off. If the threads strip out it appears there is enough space around the mounts to tap new threads. Feel free the email me direct with any follow up questions. Calypso is moored at Shilshole, E dock in case you are in the neighborhood next Saturday afternoon and want to discuss engine mounts. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the
Re: Stus-List Yanmar question
Thanks, Leslie On Tue, 8/11/15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar question To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2015, 11:28 AM Yes it should rotate. I think mine is held on with a cotter pin or a clip. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F On Aug 11, 2015 2:25 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The kill cable broke on my 2GM20, at the engine end. The cause (I think) was that as the arm moved the wire was flexing where it was clamped to the arm. My question: should that clamp (square block of metal with a hole for the wire and a screw to clamp) rotate in the arm. Mine does not. Can be because of corrosion, does not want to force it if it does not meant to rotate... Thanks, Leslie. Phoenix, CC32 (1983) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
This list has been through the don't put your hand over the intake discussion in the past. There is a fear of losing skin and fingers and palms. I can say from experience that the suction really isn't extreme and the engine dies quite quickly. Maybe a valid concern on a bigger engine but on our little engines it is a quick failsafe way. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F On Aug 11, 2015 10:55 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: How many hours do you have on the engine? The sort of runaway you describe does happen rarely, but the piston rings have to be worn to near the end of their life (say 8000 to 1 hours) or you need to almost completely fill the block with oil to the point oil leaks out the dipstick tube. And never put a rag in the air intake. The suction of the diesel will just suck the rag into the intake manifold and valves (which is really no biggie since you will need to rebuild the head anyway when you rebuild the block after you get it to shut down from a runaway condition). Whatever you do, don’t put your hand over the air intake for pretty obvious reasons. It is best to use a flat metal object like a pie plate or a saucepan from the galley to cover the air intake. No airflow + no compression = engine shuts off. Rick Brass *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List *Sent:* Tuesday, August 11, 2015 11:50 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com *Subject:* Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Hi Rob, I was told by more than 1 mechanic to be very careful about never over-filling the oil in my 3GM30F.. In fact they recommended keeping it between the middle and about 2/3 full level on the stick. The reason for that is to avoid a run-away engine condition.. Apparently the excess oil can get splashed by the piston skirts and somehow make its way into the combustion chamber / burn away without throttle control. I was even advised to keep a rag handy near the engine to stuff it into the air intake and stop it should all else fail.. I am not speaking form experience, but I was told it happens more often than one might think. Best regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Mike: Along the line(s) of what Rick was saying about oil levels, I'll add this. My Yanmar 2GMF manual says to put 2 litres of oil in the engine after an oil and filter change.the 2 litres will bring the oil level on the dipstick to the full mark only if I use a Yanmar oil filter, which is quite small. I use a NAPA 1064 Gold Seal oil filter which is larger than the Yanmar is and obviously size and 'volume' of oil it can handle. Therefore, I need more than 2 litres when I use the NAPA filter to get the dipstick to read fullHow much more exactly?..I haven't measured it exactly.I just add the extra oil beyond the 2 litres until the dipstick reads full.more often than not since I am not exactly measuring the extra oil beyond the 2 litres, the dipstick reads slightly above the full mark. After reading all these comments about oil levels in the marine engines, I don't think I will fret about the oil level a little above the full mark. Just something else to think about. Are you back at the club? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 -84 Halifax, N.S. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
Mike, I experienced the very same thing on Ocean Pearl last year. After months of trying to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge (never could get the threads to match) and checking with the old Yanmar gurus - who said I had lots of oil pressure -I discovered a loose connector on the temp sensor unit. Replaced that very old unit with new and she's been singing beautifully ever since. I was seeing the panel lights incorrectly - it was the temp alarm, not oil pressure. No false alarms now. 2 cents. Dan Ocean Pearl CC 32 On Mon, Aug 10, 2015 at 3:25 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: OK. So the service manual says to connect the oil pressure gauge to the pilot lamp unit for primary pressure and lubricating oil pipe connector for secondary pressure. Where is the pilot lamp unit? Mike *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of * svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 2:48 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* svpegasu...@gmail.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Mike, summit racing is a great place to get gauges. Prices are good and delivery is fast. The connection on the engine I believe is std 1/8th pipe thread. At least that was true on my 3qm30. The list is on the right track for your problem. Good luck. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- *From: *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Date: *Mon, Aug 10, 2015 10:10 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com; *Cc: *Hoyt, Mike; *Subject:*Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning So likely the best place to start is to change the oil and filter first and then check oil pressure. On phone to yanmar dealer to find out where to get a manual pressure guage and where I attach it to engine to test … Engine was not putting off excessive heat that I could notice. Did not get a chance to check coolant level but can top that up also. I believe that is a different light on the panel though. We have the B type panel and Oil Pressure lamp is second from right while water temp warning lamp is third from right. The water temp lamp was not illuminated *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *S Thomas via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 2:01 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com %20cnc-l...@cnc-list.com *Cc:* S Thomas *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Also not expensive to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, even if you only want to do it temporarily. Actually just about any mechanical pressure gauge will work for test purposes, including air pressure gauges, just get one with an appropriate pressure range. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - *From:*Martin DeYoung via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:*Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil pressure? It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit. Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp. If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -- *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike *Subject:* Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40 Oil level checked July 22 300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2 Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking sound” was heard in cockpit. Thought at first was from Ram mic but was still there once disconnected. Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar panel. Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing) At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light. Revved up to 3000 RPM and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil pressure light and full alarm siren. Stoped engine and waited. A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm stopped and light turned off. Any thoughts? Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with me in advance -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
I replaced all 4 of mine 2 winters ago with PYI. They are captured so even if/when the rubber breaks down or delaminates the mount will still hold the engine. Yanmar even recognizes the possibility of a torn engine mount and recommends installing a heavy gauge twist tie to prevent the engine from coming loose. On one boat we looked at, the dripless shaft seal bellows were weak but worked while idle or forward at low RPM. At high RPM the engine was able to thrust the engine forward enough on the weakened stock yanmar mounts to allow the shaft seal to spray. The PYI capturing prevents excess engine movement if the rubber breaks down and are stainless frames to prevent rust. The top creates a shroud so that any fuel or oil is directed away from the rubber to help prevent the rubber from breaking down too. I think they were a little cheaper too. If you would like I have a brand new, never installed, yanmar mount I would be willing to sell. The install on mine was only made possible by removing the mounting brackets from the engine. I did them one at a time so the engine was always supported on three corners. I would use a sharpie to trace the original mounts just to give you a guide on the new ones. The suggestion made to me was to use a deflated basketball to jack the engine. I had already finished the job before acquiring a basketball so I never tried it out but it would have made the job easier. My boat came with Vetus engine mounts. I think they were built with a hydraulic dampening fluid inside. When i got the boat they were oozing. You can see pictures of the new ones installed and the old ones removed at the following link. https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit It was my first alignment and took some though with regard to how to get the engine to move properly. The basketball would have probably been helpful. Finding the correct wrench combination to reach all the places was a challenge. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F On Aug 11, 2015 11:30 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina *Martin DeYoung* mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com cnc-list%40cnc-list.com?Subject=Re%3A%20Stus-List%20Yanmar%20Engine%20Mounts%20-%20aftermarket%20replacements%3FIn-Reply-To=%3C23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B48ED%40DMI3.DMI.local%3E *Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013* I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Patrick: The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest. Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013 I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible. The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked down in a heavy sea. One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is much already written about the topic available. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
I used a small bottle jack and it also worked well when I fixed the mounts on the M4-30 which replaced an A4 in my CC 35MKII Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 10:43 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The advantage to using a small scissor jack is that you can make small adjustments that will hold position while aligning the engine with the propeller shaft. I used one when changing the mounts on my engine and found it to be useful for that reason. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - *From:* Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com ; Patrick Davin jda...@gmail.com *Sent:* Wednesday, August 12, 2015 06:00 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement Patrick: The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest. Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina *Martin DeYoung* mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com cnc-list%40cnc-list.com?Subject=Re%3A%20Stus-List%20Yanmar%20Engine%20Mounts%20-%20aftermarket%20replacements%3FIn-Reply-To=%3C23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B48ED%40DMI3.DMI.local%3E *Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013* I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible. The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked down in a heavy sea. One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is much already written about the topic available. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Ken — your autopilot should be sending “fast” (10 Hz) heading info over its NMEA0183 interface; the NMEA0183 data can be converted into NMEA2000 using something like the Actisense NGW-1-STNG: http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/ngw-1/ngw-1.html http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/ngw-1/ngw-1.html That unit comes with an adapter cable which needs to be connected to your SeaTalkNG bus. Once you’ve done that, your heading data should be repeated on the SeaTalkNG bus, and should become available to the i60 Wind. There may be some configuration needed on various devices in the chain to make sure everything’s set up properly. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 12, 2015, at 11:24 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sorry Fred, I wasn't clear. I was referring to the true wind display on a Raymatine i60 Wind. Raymarine Tech online says it needs a source of heading (and speed through the water which it gets from the i50 Speed already installed) to be able to display true wind? What are possible sources for heading? Can my old Simrad/Robertson Autopilot provide that info to the i60 with some sort of NMEA 0183 to SeaTalkng converter? Ken H. On 12 August 2015 at 10:55, Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken — let’s not confuse True Wind Direction with True Wind Angle. Yes, you would need heading info for true wind direction; but true wind angle is referenced to the bow of the boat. The True Wind vectors that display on the Raymarine chartplotters are, I believe, just TWA referenced to COG boat direction if there’s no heading data available from, say, an autopilot heading sensor. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 11, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm pretty sure the Raymarine Wind needs course from an outside source to display True Wind. The source of course info could be an autopilot or other compass in the system. I'm sure Fred can confirm that. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Sorry Fred, I wasn't clear. I was referring to the true wind display on a Raymatine i60 Wind. Raymarine Tech online says it needs a source of heading (and speed through the water which it gets from the i50 Speed already installed) to be able to display true wind? What are possible sources for heading? Can my old Simrad/Robertson Autopilot provide that info to the i60 with some sort of NMEA 0183 to SeaTalkng converter? Ken H. On 12 August 2015 at 10:55, Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ken — let’s not confuse True Wind Direction with True Wind Angle. Yes, you would need heading info for true wind direction; but true wind angle is referenced to the bow of the boat. The True Wind vectors that display on the Raymarine chartplotters are, I believe, just TWA referenced to COG boat direction if there’s no heading data available from, say, an autopilot heading sensor. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 11, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm pretty sure the Raymarine Wind needs course from an outside source to display True Wind. The source of course info could be an autopilot or other compass in the system. I'm sure Fred can confirm that. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
On Aug 12, 2015, at 1:00 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David: Exactly what model and vintage of Universal diesel do you have in your boat? In reading the information on the Catalina website that was referenced in an earlier post, I note that they are generally referring to Universal M25XP that apparently did not have a solenoid to power the glow plugs and the fuel lift pump. On the M25,35,40B (at least according to the manuals I have that are dated 1997) there is a solenoid. I’d like to reference the parts and wiring material for your specific model of engine. M4-30- the manual has no date I can find, but the boat was commissioned in 1990. The manual covers a bunch of engines including the M25XP. The panel appears to be the Deluxe 300685. And let me understand the situation you have: When connected to shore power, when you press the glow plug button and the start button together, the engine cranks and starts? I am pretty sure that is the case, but it has been a long time since I tried it and don’t trust my memory. I am on a mooring 99% of the time. We are going to the boat today so plan to test this. Is it safe to presume you have a battery charger connected whenever shore power is on, that the float charge is around 13v, and that the battery charger will switch on and deliver 30 or 40 amps of charging current if it senses the battery voltage to be below 12v or so? Yes- but I am almost never on shore power. 50 W Solar panel plugged in all the time to charge and batteries appear fully charged when testing. I have not yet measured the amps. Not sure how I would do that. I don’t have a battery monitor (yet). When starting on just the batteries, when you press the glow plug button alone you hear the lift pump clicking, and the clicking slows down and stops after a few seconds as the fuel line comes up to pressure? The pump comes on when you turn on the key switch and runs continuously whether buttons are pushed or not. It slows down when both are pushed. I guess it stops when the engine starts, but I have not thought about it and not sure I would hear it with the engine running. Is that what normally happens? When starting on just the batteries, when you press the start button alone the engine starts? Yes When starting on just the batteries, when you press and hold the glow plug button and then press the start button, you hear the fuel pump clicking and slowing down, but the engine just grunts or clicks and the starter does not turn to start the engine? Yes- no real clicks at all, just mostly silence. When I opened the engine compartment and listened next to the starter, I heard a noise, but can’t say for sure the solenoid was closing or not. What do you have for a starting battery? And is the behavior the same when you try starting with the battery switch set to “all” as it is when you try starting with just the start battery connected? Same in All setting as A or B. Both batteries are from Defender bought 2 years ago and are the same: Lifeline Deep Cycle Marine Battery Item # : 204201 12 Volt, Type: AGM, Group: 27 Amp Hours: 100, Reserve Capacity: 186, MCA / Cranking Amps: 715 Rick From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 10:35 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring This has been a great learning experience and I think I understand most of what has been said. One thing I don’t get is why Rick thinks I should change the wiring back to the original design. With that setup, if you have a problem in the circuit (as I apparently do) you would not be able to start the engine. The way mine is wired seems to have no obvious disadvantage if all is OK, but gives you the ability to start the engine with a poor connection somewhere. If it were wired as original in the manual, I would not be able to start at all. I don’t see a disadvantage to my panel’s wiring design. Rick- are you suggesting that the start problem might be caused by the wiring change? I can’t see that. One further clue if it helps, with the start button and glow plug button pushed, you can hear the fuel pump slow way down and I hear a noise from the solenoid but I don’t know if that noise is the solenoid actually closing. One clarification- I have no solenoid on the glow plug circuit either from the manual circuit diagram or as far as I have found in the wiring, so I presume that is just a difference in my engine and others. I should also note that when I first got the boat, I had problems starting it at all unless plugged into shore power. I thought it was the batteries so got new ones, but that made no difference. When I cleaned the ground wire connections to the engine
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
One thing that was important when I replaced mine was to try your best to match the settings on the current mounts. That gives you a decent place to start from in aligning to the prop shaft. Andy Peregrine CC 40 On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 9:43 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The advantage to using a small scissor jack is that you can make small adjustments that will hold position while aligning the engine with the propeller shaft. I used one when changing the mounts on my engine and found it to be useful for that reason. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - *From:* Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com ; Patrick Davin jda...@gmail.com *Sent:* Wednesday, August 12, 2015 06:00 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement Patrick: The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest. Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina *Martin DeYoung* mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com cnc-list%40cnc-list.com?Subject=Re%3A%20Stus-List%20Yanmar%20Engine%20Mounts%20-%20aftermarket%20replacements%3FIn-Reply-To=%3C23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357D7B48ED%40DMI3.DMI.local%3E *Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013* I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible. The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked down in a heavy sea. One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is much already written about the topic available. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Ken — let’s not confuse True Wind Direction with True Wind Angle. Yes, you would need heading info for true wind direction; but true wind angle is referenced to the bow of the boat. The True Wind vectors that display on the Raymarine chartplotters are, I believe, just TWA referenced to COG boat direction if there’s no heading data available from, say, an autopilot heading sensor. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 11, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm pretty sure the Raymarine Wind needs course from an outside source to display True Wind. The source of course info could be an autopilot or other compass in the system. I'm sure Fred can confirm that. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
The advantage to using a small scissor jack is that you can make small adjustments that will hold position while aligning the engine with the propeller shaft. I used one when changing the mounts on my engine and found it to be useful for that reason. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Boyer ; Patrick Davin Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 06:00 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement Patrick: The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest. Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013 I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible. The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked down in a heavy sea. One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is much already written about the topic available. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address:
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Does seem to be the case. I guess when I get too old for racing, which I hope is not in the near future, someone else might step up to preserve the Windburn racing heritage. For sale, $20K in top condition racing sails, $10K in electronics, $10K in Harken rigging. Comes with a CC 30 in good shape for free. I suppose that is the case for most of us. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 14:11:56 -0400 From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade Message-ID: CAGAfpmahrA1e5jtR2PeUPni-u8pQB4Sw-TnBoXhDfje9Q1b3=q...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 how much does one spend on a '77 CC 30-1? Michael, the answer is, everything you've got and just a tiny bit more. you're welcome ;) Andy CC 40 Peregrine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
I replaced mounts on my 2QM15 while ago using a scissors jack I bought for that purpose on Amazon. Placed a piece of plywood under the jack so it doesn't damage the hull. Changed them one by one. With all my precautions, I still had to re-align the prop shaft again which was a total PITA... Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 20:29:29 -0700 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: jda...@gmail.com Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -PatrickS/V Violet Hour, LF38Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013 I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I used the RD Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible. The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked down in a heavy sea. One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is much already written about the topic available. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Patrick, I recently installed a rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30 in a LF38. Replacing the two transmission mounts should be easier with the transmission and v-drive mounted for leverage. With the mount nuts free, you should be able to pry up the end of the v-drive and block it from underneath or you could lift the v-drive up using a block and tackle. See some of my installation photos at the end of the this page: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/EngineWork I suggest getting new stainless bolts, washers, and nylon locknuts. Installing the mounting nuts and washers is the real challenge. If you drop a nut or washer, it is lost, so get a few extra just incase. I used masking tape to hold the nut and washer on a box wrench which I then inserted into the tiny access holes of the support struts. With this arrangement, was able to rather easily bolt the mounts in place. I tied a string on the box wrench, so if I dropped the wrench, it was quickly fished out. As I said it would be easier to do with the v-drive for leverage, but you could likely lift it with a 2x4 and block it. I basically walked the engine in place this way. - Paul E. 1981 CC 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Aug 12, 2015, at 1:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 20:29:29 -0700 From: Patrick Davin jda...@gmail.com mailto:jda...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement Message-ID: CAHixY6QzJHe=xqzqbdolqjpqnwidhyq2e7qtvsjybt66um+...@mail.gmail.com mailto:CAHixY6QzJHe=xqzqbdolqjpqnwidhyq2e7qtvsjybt66um+...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear. Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on. I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to break in the summer months, but I guess not! -Patrick S/V Violet Hour, LF38 Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Hi, Don — looking at the ST2000+ manual, there is only NMEA018 INPUT; no output. The heading info may be on the SeaTalk bus (you’d need to ask Raymarine to confirm); but you’d need to convert that to NMEA2000/SeaTalkNG in order to use it with the i50/i60/i70 instruments. The Raymarine SeaTalkNG to SeaTalk1 converter could handle this for you. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 12, 2015, at 12:21 PM, D Harben via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Fred, hmmm Will a Raymarine tiller pilot St2000+ also provide heading ... assuming no other magnetic to list after? Don V34 Life ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48
Josh you have great photos of the job, as usual. Here are some pics of my existing mounts: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28usp=sharing The Vetus mounts don't look very good. I have heard people like the captive attributes of the PYIs, and the oil/fuel shielding. The oil/fuel shielding doesn't seem like a big deal to me because the Yanmar OEMs are shielded from the top as well, and it doesn't appear the engine mounts have ever had oil or fuel spraying in from the side on them anyway. The captive aspect is nice, but considering the Yanmar ones I have now are probably original, they lasted 31 years and are still in good enough shape that I wouldn't worry about the engine flying off. The main selling point of the Yanmar one is I read a couple forum posts where people said the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration dampening - meaning less vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor. I don't need to do the realignment because the mechanic I'm paying to do the transmission reinstall will do that. That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. On Wed, Aug 12, 2015 at 5:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: -- Forwarded message -- From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2015 05:48:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement I replaced all 4 of mine 2 winters ago with PYI. They are captured so even if/when the rubber breaks down or delaminates the mount will still hold the engine. Yanmar even recognizes the possibility of a torn engine mount and recommends installing a heavy gauge twist tie to prevent the engine from coming loose. On one boat we looked at, the dripless shaft seal bellows were weak but worked while idle or forward at low RPM. At high RPM the engine was able to thrust the engine forward enough on the weakened stock yanmar mounts to allow the shaft seal to spray. The PYI capturing prevents excess engine movement if the rubber breaks down and are stainless frames to prevent rust. The top creates a shroud so that any fuel or oil is directed away from the rubber to help prevent the rubber from breaking down too. I think they were a little cheaper too. If you would like I have a brand new, never installed, yanmar mount I would be willing to sell. The install on mine was only made possible by removing the mounting brackets from the engine. I did them one at a time so the engine was always supported on three corners. I would use a sharpie to trace the original mounts just to give you a guide on the new ones. The suggestion made to me was to use a deflated basketball to jack the engine. I had already finished the job before acquiring a basketball so I never tried it out but it would have made the job easier. My boat came with Vetus engine mounts. I think they were built with a hydraulic dampening fluid inside. When i got the boat they were oozing. You can see pictures of the new ones installed and the old ones removed at the following link. https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit It was my first alignment and took some though with regard to how to get the engine to move properly. The basketball would have probably been helpful. Finding the correct wrench combination to reach all the places was a challenge. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48
Patrick, … the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration dampening - meaning less vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor. I expect any quality brand of new engine mounts will noticeably reduce the vibration and its associated harmonics. Before I replaced Calypso’s engine mounts (2 looked original, 2 only 20 years old), at idle the vibration and harmonics shook the boat enough that the spinnaker pole (in its deck mounts) would deflect in the middle and strike the deck making a pinging sound. After the replacement and re-alignment the vibration was significantly reduced but not eliminated. I still stuff a few pieces of cardboard or other dampening material in several spots (the usual suspects) when under power for more than a half hour or so. That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. Bingo. Based on your pictures, are you able to slide a piece of angle iron under the rear mounts to create a lifting point? Also, does your boat have a V drive or did I interpret the pics incorrectly? I started a response to your question regarding my comments on lag bolts and other engine mount issues. I spent the last two days on Calypso laminating up a large repair area (7 ½ sq. feet, close to a gallon of resin) so I am backed up a bit at me day job. I should get it out later today. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48 Josh you have great photos of the job, as usual. Here are some pics of my existing mounts: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28usp=sharing The Vetus mounts don't look very good. I have heard people like the captive attributes of the PYIs, and the oil/fuel shielding. The oil/fuel shielding doesn't seem like a big deal to me because the Yanmar OEMs are shielded from the top as well, and it doesn't appear the engine mounts have ever had oil or fuel spraying in from the side on them anyway. The captive aspect is nice, but considering the Yanmar ones I have now are probably original, they lasted 31 years and are still in good enough shape that I wouldn't worry about the engine flying off. The main selling point of the Yanmar one is I read a couple forum posts where people said the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration dampening - meaning less vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor. I don't need to do the realignment because the mechanic I'm paying to do the transmission reinstall will do that. That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
Hi Fred, hmmm Will a Raymarine tiller pilot St2000+ also provide heading ... assuming no other magnetic to list after? Don V34 Life On Aug 12, 2015, at 12:34 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: your autopilot should be sending “fast” (10 Hz) heading info over its NMEA0183 interface ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
