Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I can’t tell exactly what part of the bulkhead you are addressing from the 
pictures. 
I do see that there may have been a battery mounted in the vicinity.
I also have some rot in the same bulkhead, caused from battery acid spilled 
from an unsecure battery in the engine compartment.
The damage to your bulkhead looks similar to the damage in my boat.
Good luck,

Frank Noragon
C&C 38LF, S/N 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 13:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like 
every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 

Please see pictures here: 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
port quarterberth.

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and it 
doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the bulkhead 
is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, where the 
leak is. 

The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
(probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture in 
there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + starter), 
which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing actually 
caused the damage somehow? 

>From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
>kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
>leak anymore)

If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new waterproof 
marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - it's in the 
engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and probably the 
exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft quarterberth storage 
compartments. 

The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. It 
doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other bulkheads. 
The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if that's from 
the flaked off white paint or what. 

The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/

At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
from the bottom up rather than top down)?

-Patrick
1984 C&C LF38
Seattle, WA




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Windstar 33ii mast step repair - blog updated.

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice write up!

Joel

On Monday, December 7, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
wrote:

> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Windstar 33ii mast step repair - blog updated.

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bacon sails can also make one.

Joel

On Monday, December 7, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs.  Quantum
> Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney).  I can provide email and/or phone if desired
> but I suggest talking to your local sail lofts or canvas specialist.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 7, 2015 7:50 PM, "tim via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>>I’m in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is
>> rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity).   A winter project.
>>   I was just curious if others may have such a system, and
>> advice/recommendations for brand of replacement.  I tried to search the
>> archives and unable to find a result.  I sail inland on Lake Champlain.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks much for your time and thoughts.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim W.
>>
>> s/v Sly Fox
>>
>> 1976 29’ MK1
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs.  Quantum
Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney).  I can provide email and/or phone if desired
but I suggest talking to your local sail lofts or canvas specialist.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 7, 2015 7:50 PM, "tim via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
>I’m in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is
> rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity).   A winter project.
>   I was just curious if others may have such a system, and
> advice/recommendations for brand of replacement.  I tried to search the
> archives and unable to find a result.  I sail inland on Lake Champlain.
>
>
>
> Thanks much for your time and thoughts.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Tim W.
>
> s/v Sly Fox
>
> 1976 29’ MK1
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not sure what your cockpit looks like.  Pretty much that same panel showed
rot on my 35-1.  The cause was poor caulk under the coaming of the port
cockpit locker.  Your LF38 may be made differently.

I like Rick's suggestion about an access port.

Failing that, best option might involve scarfing in a new section.

Dennis C.



On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
> the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
> quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
> like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.
>
> Please see pictures here:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing
>
> As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section
> of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments
> under the port quarterberth.
>
> One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks
> dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and
> it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the
> bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the
> top, where the leak is.
>
> The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom
> (probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have
> spread out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at
> the cut?  There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to
> inevitable moisture in there. But also the rot is right behind the
> batteries (house #1 + starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the
> gel cells outgassing actually caused the damage somehow?
>
> From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly
> evil kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active
> water leak anymore)
>
> If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and
> glass in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even
> ignore it since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with
> new waterproof marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be
> tough - it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some
> wiring, and probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the
> aft quarterberth storage compartments.
>
> The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was
> originally. It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in
> other bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not
> sure if that's from the flaked off white paint or what.
>
> The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it.
> http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/
>
> At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this
> issue, particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine
> compartment and aft qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like
> this can happen (rotting from the bottom up rather than top down)?
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ryan,

You've already gotten several good replies.  I guess you saw this:

"http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm";.

That's Touche', my 35-1.  As others have said, torque the keel bolts.  A
rental shop nearby may have a torque multiplier.  You can get cheap large
sockets at Harbor Freight.

Once that is done, you can fix what is now a mostly cosmetic issue.  Dig
out any crumbly stuff, fill it with epoxy/glass mix, then apply 2-3 layers
of biaxial tape over the entire hull/keel joint.  I did that 10 years ago
and haven't seen any recurrence.

Touche' also had the crack at the aft end of the joint.  It reappeared each
haul out.  After the applications of biaxial tape, it has not recurred.

The separation at the aft end of the joint may have been from overzealous
use of the backstay adjuster.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 3:09 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

Well, first just check the torque specs and see if they are right. I would
not worry about freezing. If you are in the water, it is too deep down. If
you are on the hard, water will drain. Dry up the bilge, if you want to
feel good about it, seal up the smiles with a thin layer of 4200 or life
chaulk and wait till spring.
Weather will be nicer, things will set and dry easier etc.
Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C&C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA
On Dec 7, 2015 6:29 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks for your reply Dave.  Love the blog.  Yes water ingress is
> certainly a concern, but I have not noticed any rust bleeding out. I'm
> wondering if I should wait until spring when I paint to torque the bolts.
> Or do you think there's a risk of water ingress over the winter?  I'm in
> NY, so she will freeze.  Any thoughts on the timing of when I tighten
> them?
>
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
> wrote:
>
>> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>>
>> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> C&C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
>> Doyle via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
>> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
>> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
>> C&C 30 mki.
>>
>> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
>> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
>> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
>> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
>> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
>> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>>
>> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
>> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
>> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
>> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>>
>> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
>> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
>> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[tim via CnC-List]

Hi,

 

   I'm in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is
rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity).   A winter project.
I was just curious if others may have such a system, and
advice/recommendations for brand of replacement.  I tried to search the
archives and unable to find a result.  I sail inland on Lake Champlain.

 

Thanks much for your time and thoughts.

 

Regards,

 

Tim W.

s/v Sly Fox

1976 29' MK1

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My friend’s 1983 LF38 has a rather large removable rectangular panel in the 
area you are talking about (which provides pretty fair access to the right side 
of the engine, transmission, and v drive, as I know from personal experience). 
There are stainless tabs on the edge of the panel that keep the surface flush 
with the quarter berth side of the bulkhead, and the quarter berth cushion 
holds the panel in place.

 

Maybe the area of rot is an opportunity to increase the engine compartment 
access.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 6:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

 

Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the 
battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot.  The 
discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or 
outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged.

 

Your best bet, if you have enough access, would be to cut back a rectangular 
section of the plywood until you reach “good” wood, then put in a patch out of 
new marine plywood and get a layer of glass over everything.  That should keep 
the battery issue in check in the future.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Dec 7, 2015, at 3:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like 
every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 

 

Please see pictures here: 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0 

 &usp=sharing

 

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
port quarterberth.

 

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and it 
doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the bulkhead 
is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, where the 
leak is. 

 

The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
(probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture in 
there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + starter), 
which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing actually 
caused the damage somehow? 

 

>From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
>kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
>leak anymore)

 

If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new waterproof 
marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - it's in the 
engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and probably the 
exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft quarterberth storage 
compartments. 

 

The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. It 
doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other bulkheads. 
The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if that's from 
the flaked off white paint or what. 

 

The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/

 

At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
from the bottom up rather than top down)?

 

-Patrick

1984 C&C LF38

Seattle, WA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've heard good things about Smith's CPES.  Lower cost/oz than any other
product.  I've use an entire quart (2 pint kit) of it and have received
good piece of mind as a result, but no quantifiable evidence of it's
effectiveness.  They make lofty claims which i don't mind testing on
non-structural areas.  As for proper structural repairs in load bearing
areas...other's suggestions are probably safer.

http:// www.smithandcompany.org
/
CPES
/


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 7, 2015 4:01 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
> the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
> quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
> like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.
>
> Please see pictures here:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing
>
> As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section
> of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments
> under the port quarterberth.
>
> One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks
> dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and
> it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the
> bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the
> top, where the leak is.
>
> The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom
> (probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have
> spread out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at
> the cut?  There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to
> inevitable moisture in there. But also the rot is right behind the
> batteries (house #1 + starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the
> gel cells outgassing actually caused the damage somehow?
>
> From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly
> evil kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active
> water leak anymore)
>
> If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and
> glass in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even
> ignore it since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with
> new waterproof marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be
> tough - it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some
> wiring, and probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the
> aft quarterberth storage compartments.
>
> The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was
> originally. It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in
> other bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not
> sure if that's from the flaked off white paint or what.
>
> The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it.
> http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/
>
> At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this
> issue, particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine
> compartment and aft qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like
> this can happen (rotting from the bottom up rather than top down)?
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post.

If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out.
First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its
length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew..

I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water
> collecting at the bottom.   Even condensation dripping down if it is humid
> as you say.   Any rot I've found in various boats started at the end grain,
> and typically low down where water collects.  The holes cut for wires are a
> typical trouble spot as there is plenty of end grain which has not been
> glassed or finished conscientiously.   After you identify the rotted areas,
> cut out the rot at described below, or if its a bigger area, buy or borrow
> a Fein oscillating tool with a bimetal blade.  This is a gift for boat
> surgeons.   As below, ensure the repair is saturated with epoxy.
>
> My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then
> cut vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole.  Size everything to
> remove the rot.  Make the mouse hole big enough to work/sand inside.   Wash
> the whole area with bleach to kill any spores.   (Careful around diesel)
> Rough radius the sharp corners, sand the bottom flat and coat the whole
> thing in epoxy.  Paint it white so you can see problems/mole later. If
> you need to close the hole, make a cover that laps the sides, much easier
> than fitting a 'dutchman'. (Unless you enjoy that  sort of thing as I do).
> I'd be tempted to leave the mouse hole open to allow it to drain and let
> the air move.  My 33ii has several areas that would (and will) benefit from
> greater air movement.
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Patrick Davin 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
> the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
> quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
> like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.
>
> Please see pictures here:
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing
>
> As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section
> of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments
> under the port quarterberth.
>
> One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks
> dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and
> it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the
> bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the
> top, where the leak is.
>
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Wow.  This seems like a great forum.  Thanks for the responses... And all this 
time I've been slumming it over at Sailnet :)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 7, 2015, at 6:49 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine published by West Systems.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Dec 7, 2015 4:11 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hi all, 
>> 
>> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
>> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 
>> 30 mki.  
>> 
>> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
>> "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation 
>> from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" 
>> from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel 
>> down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the 
>> other side.  I am concerned.
>> 
>> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
>> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
>> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
>> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>> 
>> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
>> insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
>> and excited to be a part of the forum.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water 
collecting at the bottom.   Even condensation dripping down if it is humid as 
you say.   

My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then cut 
vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole.  Size everything to remove 
the rot.  Make the mouse hole big enough to work/sand inside.   Wash the whole 
area with bleach to kill any spores.   (Careful around diesel) Rough radius the 
sharp corners, sand the bottom flat and coat the whole thing in epoxy.  Paint 
it white so you can see problems/mole later. If you need to close the hole, 
make a cover that laps the sides, much easier than fitting a 'dutchman'. 
(Unless you enjoy that  sort of thing as I do).  
I'd be tempted to leave the mouse hole open to allow it to drain and let the 
air move.  My 33ii has several areas that would (and will) benefit from greater 
air movement.   

Dave.





From: Patrick Davin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.

Please see pictures here:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section
of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments
under the port quarterberth.

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and
it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the
bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the
top, where the leak is.



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the 
battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot.  The 
discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or 
outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged.

Your best bet, if you have enough access, would be to cut back a rectangular 
section of the plywood until you reach “good” wood, then put in a patch out of 
new marine plywood and get a layer of glass over everything.  That should keep 
the battery issue in check in the future.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 7, 2015, at 3:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the 
> wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft 
> quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels 
> like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. 
> 
> Please see pictures here: 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of 
> the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the 
> port quarterberth.
> 
> One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks 
> dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and 
> it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the 
> bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, 
> where the leak is. 
> 
> The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom 
> (probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread 
> out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut?  
> There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture 
> in there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + 
> starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing 
> actually caused the damage somehow? 
> 
> From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil 
> kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water 
> leak anymore)
> 
> If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass 
> in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it 
> since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new 
> waterproof marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - 
> it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and 
> probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft 
> quarterberth storage compartments. 
> 
> The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. 
> It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other 
> bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if 
> that's from the flaked off white paint or what. 
> 
> The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. 
> http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/ 
> 
> At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, 
> particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft 
> qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting 
> from the bottom up rather than top down)?
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine published by West
Systems.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 7, 2015 4:11 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Ryan,

I’d be surprised if there was a problem with freezing. I know on my boat that 
basically the water just drained out a few days after the haul. Others may chip 
in here with better ideas which is the beauty of this list.

Were it me, and take that with a grain of salt given my track record of 
ignoring obvious problems, I would just wait until Spring maintenance to deal 
with the keel. Unless of course you are being chased by a million tasks that 
need to get done yesterday in order to go sailing. ;-)

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Dec 7, 2015, at 6:28 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for your reply Dave.  Love the blog.  Yes water ingress is certainly a 
> concern, but I have not noticed any rust bleeding out. I'm wondering if I 
> should wait until spring when I paint to torque the bolts.  Or do you think 
> there's a risk of water ingress over the winter?  I'm in NY, so she will 
> freeze.  Any thoughts on the timing of when I tighten them?  
> 
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe  > wrote:
> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
> 
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
> 
>  
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
> 
>  
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 
> 30 mki. 
> 
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
> "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation 
> from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" 
> from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel 
> down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the 
> other side.  I am concerned.
> 
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
> 
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
> insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
> and excited to be a part of the forum.
> 
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks for your reply Dave.  Love the blog.  Yes water ingress is certainly
a concern, but I have not noticed any rust bleeding out. I'm wondering if I
should wait until spring when I paint to torque the bolts.  Or do you think
there's a risk of water ingress over the winter?  I'm in NY, so she will
freeze.  Any thoughts on the timing of when I tighten them?

On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
wrote:

> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list Ryan.

I’m sure that you’re worried about what may be going on with your keel bolts 
with the crack and water ingress. I know that I was and I have to state, I let 
my “smile” go for 15 years even after it was apparent when I bought the boat. I 
turned a willful blind eye to the rust streaks flowing down the front of the 
keel...

Last year I pulled the keel off as part of a big refit project and beforehand I 
had plenty of sleepless nights worrying about the damage that I was going to 
find. I was already figuring costs in my head on getting MarsKeels to replace 
badly corroded keel bolts.

Happily, none of that was necessary. The repair part of it, not the worrying 
part. I should have been a bit more “pro-active”.

If you check some of the photos in the link 
 you’ll see that 
with the exception of the forward-most keel boat which had minor crevice 
corrosion, the rest of the bolts were still at factory spec.

Anyway, probably not a good idea to be like me and bury your head in the sand; 
just go ahead and clean up the interface and tighten the bolts and I suspect 
you’ll be fine.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Dec 7, 2015, at 5:38 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Danny I appreciate it.  I know I saw a forum on here about how to fair 
> and fill the crack.  Going to take a look at that again.
> 
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe  > wrote:
> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
> 
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
> 
>  
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
> 
>  
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 
> 30 mki. 
> 
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
> "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation 
> from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" 
> from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel 
> down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the 
> other side.  I am concerned.
> 
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
> 
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
> insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
> and excited to be a part of the forum.
> 
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Danny I appreciate it.  I know I saw a forum on here about how to
fair and fill the crack.  Going to take a look at that again.

On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
wrote:

> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Don't think I would get too worried about that unless you have water
ingress around any of the keel bolts, if not just tighten the nuts to spec
then clean around the crack surfaces (maybe with an angle grinder) fill the
smile using epoxy and glass matte and fair

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 5:09 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan, welcome to the list! I had a worse looking smile than that on my 
Viking 33 when I got her.  I had the yard torque the bolts (I didn't have a 
torque wrench that could handle the job) and they cleaned and faired the crack. 
 4 years later there was no sign of the smile returning.   I'm thinking you 
could do the same. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
To: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Cc: Ryan Doyle , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 16:18:38 -0500


Thanks Joe.  That's a relief to hear.  I have not torqued the bolts yet, but I 
plan to using the specs on cnc photo album.  I can't stop picturing the 
nightmare scenario of my feel falling off... like that Oyster off the coast of 
Spain recently. 
On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe  
wrote:
All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
 
Joe
Coquina 
C&C 35 MK I
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Ryan Doyle
 Subject: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
 
Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 30 
mki. 
My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
"smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation from 
the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" from the 
aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel down and peer 
at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the other side.  I am 
concerned.
 
 I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
and excited to be a part of the forum.
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
 
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  That's a relief to hear.  I have not torqued the bolts yet,
but I plan to using the specs on cnc photo album.  I can't stop picturing
the nightmare scenario of my feel falling off... like that Oyster off the
coast of Spain recently.

On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
wrote:

> All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
>
> Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
> yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
> C&C 30 mki.
>
> My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
> C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
> separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
> for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
> that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
> see light on the other side.  I am concerned.
>
> I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
> states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
> conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
> acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
>
> Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
> some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
> so much and excited to be a part of the forum.
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 30 
mki.
My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
"smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation from 
the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" from the 
aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel down and peer 
at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the other side.  I am 
concerned.

I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
and excited to be a part of the forum.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976
C&C 30 mki.

My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about
C&C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline
separation from the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends
for about 6" from the aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such
that if I kneel down and peer at it at just the right angle, I am able to
see light on the other side.  I am concerned.

I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only
states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was
conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in
acceptable condition..." etc. etc.

Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has
some insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks
so much and excited to be a part of the forum.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find
the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft
quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels
like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.

Please see pictures here:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing

As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section
of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments
under the port quarterberth.

One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks
dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and
it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the
bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the
top, where the leak is.

The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom
(probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have
spread out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at
the cut?  There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to
inevitable moisture in there. But also the rot is right behind the
batteries (house #1 + starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the
gel cells outgassing actually caused the damage somehow?

>From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly
evil kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active
water leak anymore)

If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and
glass in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even
ignore it since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with
new waterproof marine paint?   If I have to cut it out, access will be
tough - it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some
wiring, and probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the
aft quarterberth storage compartments.

The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally.
It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other
bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure
if that's from the flaked off white paint or what.

The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it.
http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/

At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this
issue, particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine
compartment and aft qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like
this can happen (rotting from the bottom up rather than top down)?

-Patrick
1984 C&C LF38
Seattle, WA
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So jealous you got long term Bahamas plans on the horizon.  Actually, most of 
Bahamas drinking water comes from desalination plants. 

Anyway, I would utilize all the tanks all the time.  Have means to combine or 
separate.  Maybe rotate them.  Because the minute you start storing water for 
long term use, you invite algae.  Stagnant water only hurts.  Whether its salt 
stagnant that corrodes Stainless, or fresh stagnant in the product lines or 
tanks that ends up harboring bacteria.  

You can still have a backup concept but make sure no water stays for more than 
a week if you plan on drinking it.  And if it’s in there for longer, give decks 
and rigging a wash.  

RevX of my DIY never ending project called “desalinator” (or how to truly be a 
slave to your boat), has  6 gal bladder tank used just for flushing after every 
batch.  And in my main tanks (2x30gal) I put a teaspoon of bleach every time I 
fill them.  And I have a PUR filter at the faucet for drinking.  Some folks 
talk about UV sterilizer, but I haven’t gotten there yet.  I drank that water 
for over a year while down there. My wife at the time was always able to tell 
the difference even when ppm was < 100.   She would call it a little salty.   
Which was bs.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 9:17 AM
To: Petar Horvatic
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

Petar:

 

Thanks for reminding me that all the components don't need to be in one place.  
So, all I need is a couple smaller spaces.

 

I've been thinking about plumbing the WM only into the forward (largest) tank 
and just draw from that tank while anchored in the Bahamas.  This way, I would 
probably run it every other day for daily water needs.  My other two tanks 
would be for back up needs in the Bahamas but daily needs when in the U.S.  
Does this make sense?

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 7, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:

Just some thoughts on my experience.

Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and 
controls over larger areas.  It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be 
repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space.   One of the 
reasons I went the DIY path is so I can fit 2x 40” membranes under starboard 
stern tube.   The other thing is, because space requirement has such high 
impact on decision process, people opt for smaller WM which has smaller 
membrane(s), which produces less product output.  Now you need to run it longer 
and consume more energy.   On the other hand WMs need to be run.  So if you are 
prepared to spend the energy, running smaller(20”)  membrane(s) twice as long 
keeps them less prone to microbial growth. So long as you run it and flush it 
every week.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.

 

I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.

 

Bob 

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
$100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.

 

Dan

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bad Build

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

C&C is my no means perfect. For just one example, my boat came with all fresh 
water hardware store gate valves! Did C&C think their boats never left Lake 
Ontario?
That said, the basic structure seems vastly stronger than a lot of what gets 
built today.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 12:02 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Build

If you're talking about Cheeki Rafiki, only a couple of the keel bolts seemed 
to have failed, the others took out a big hunk of the bottom of the boat with 
them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 6 December 2015 at 07:31, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Polina Star issue was different. Oyster delaminated its keel stub (with the 
keel firmly attached) while the Beneteau broke all of its keel bolts.


Not that it mattered that much to the crews.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10





From: Syerdave--- via CnC-List
Sent: December 6, 2015 8:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Build


1. William BolgerDecember 5, 2015 at 6:37 
PM

"It appears the keel stub is hollow and laid up in similar fashion to the rest 
of the hull. Given the weight of the keel the stub wrenched side to side until 
it failed. Keel bolts must be embedded in the lead, then led through a solid 
structure before fully penetrating the grid or stringers. Oyster should be 
ashamed."

An interesting read on the polina star, post above quoted from another forum.   
Not so sure CNC did things so right all the time, but will note that the Mid 
80's 33, 35, and IIRC 41 were all designed as the poster suggests above.  Their 
execution and approach to this contributes to the 'sinking mast step' 
phenomenon that happens to some of these boats.   (Slowly, detectably, and 
after being flogged for 30 years...)

Dave.

06:16 PM 04/12/2015, you wrote:
E
A while back there was aconversation between me and another c&c owner about 
pretty dismalkeel attachments.
Ahmet
On Dec 4, 2015 6:02 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List"mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>wrote:
Interesting read about what appears to be some shoddy constructionmethods.

Thanks to C& C for doing things right.

http://www.sailfeed.com/2015/12/another-major-keel-failure-what-really-happened-to-polina-star-iii/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Petar:

Thanks for reminding me that all the components don't need to be in one place.  
So, all I need is a couple smaller spaces.

I've been thinking about plumbing the WM only into the forward (largest) tank 
and just draw from that tank while anchored in the Bahamas.  This way, I would 
probably run it every other day for daily water needs.  My other two tanks 
would be for back up needs in the Bahamas but daily needs when in the U.S.  
Does this make sense?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 7, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Petar Horvatic  wrote:
> 
> Just some thoughts on my experience.
> Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and 
> controls over larger areas.  It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be 
> repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space.   One of the 
> reasons I went the DIY path is so I can fit 2x 40” membranes under starboard 
> stern tube.   The other thing is, because space requirement has such high 
> impact on decision process, people opt for smaller WM which has smaller 
> membrane(s), which produces less product output.  Now you need to run it 
> longer and consume more energy.   On the other hand WMs need to be run.  So 
> if you are prepared to spend the energy, running smaller(20”)  membrane(s) 
> twice as long keeps them less prone to microbial growth. So long as you run 
> it and flush it every week.
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport, RI
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Boyer via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 2:07 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer; Daniel Sheer
> Subject: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?
>  
> I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
> sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
> under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
> tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.
>  
> I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
> fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.
>  
> Bob 
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>  
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> 
> On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
> $100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.
>  
> Dan
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Just some thoughts on my experience.

Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and 
controls over larger areas.  It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be 
repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space.   One of the 
reasons I went the DIY path is so I can fit 2x 40” membranes under starboard 
stern tube.   The other thing is, because space requirement has such high 
impact on decision process, people opt for smaller WM which has smaller 
membrane(s), which produces less product output.  Now you need to run it longer 
and consume more energy.   On the other hand WMs need to be run.  So if you are 
prepared to spend the energy, running smaller(20”)  membrane(s) twice as long 
keeps them less prone to microbial growth. So long as you run it and flush it 
every week.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer; Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

 

I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.

 

I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.

 

Bob 

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
$100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.

 

Dan

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Nascent c&c blog

[Dave via CnC-List]

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca

Hello all.   Just finished a major rebuild of my 33ii keel-stub/mast step and 
will be posting photos and details later this week to assist others who may 
have questions in the future.   Major work! Thanks to Doug A and others on 
this list for guidance with this project.   
I have a few other repairs I will post as well.
First photo posted is a simple winter project for the galley.
Dave.  
Sent from my iPad
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com