date:20160502

The original C 35 MK I tanks were ternplate that did not need ANY help 
corroding.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

PS - Here is my PSA for the day. The 90 degree fitting that C used for the MK 
I fuel fill was some hardware store special never intended for fuel use and the 
original fuel fill hose was not ethanol rated - no such thing back then. So I 
dumped 5 gallons of gas in my tank one day and only about 2 made it in, the 
other three went in the bilge. If you have a 35 MK I with the original tank 
and/or original fill hose, I would not use the boat until it is replaced!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 14:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Leak in my fuel Tank

Allen,

When I first bought my boat, I found a leak in my aluminum tank.  Someone, not 
sure if this was original or replacement, had used a galvanized steel strap 
under the tank, which over the years led to galvanic corrosion right through 
the bottom of the tank.  Now I have a plastic tank.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 5/2/2016 10:58 AM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
Bad news, found some diesel in the bilge.  Sopped it up with absorbent blanket, 
traced the leak back to the bottom of the 18 gallon aluminum tank under the aft 
berth.  Tank sits in a molded tray, now filled with diesel.  More absorbent 
blankets now at work.  Pumped and cleaned 9 gallons of fuel into jerry cans.  I 
suspect a leaking weld.

Anyone have similar symptoms?  What was cause?  It will be another day or two 
before I can pull tank and take a look.

Thanks,

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA


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Re: Stus-List Leak in my fuel Tank

2016-05-02 Thread Neil Gallagher via CnC-List


Allen,

When I first bought my boat, I found a leak in my aluminum tank. 
Someone, not sure if this was original or replacement, had used a 
galvanized steel strap under the tank, which over the years led to 
galvanic corrosion right through the bottom of the tank.  Now I have a 
plastic tank.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/2/2016 10:58 AM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
Bad news, found some diesel in the bilge.  Sopped it up with absorbent 
blanket, traced the leak back to the bottom of the 18 gallon 
aluminum tank under the aft berth.  Tank sits in a molded tray, now 
filled with diesel.  More absorbent blankets now at work.  Pumped and 
cleaned 9 gallons of fuel into jerry cans.  I suspect a leaking weld.
Anyone have similar symptoms?  What was cause?  It will be another day 
or two before I can pull tank and take a look.

Thanks,
Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA



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Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Spencer Johnson via CnC-List

SteveI have a LF 38 and just installed a larger transducer (Raymarine 
B60...Fishfinder - I wanted to see the bottom contours...but am willing to take 
up fishing!  Plugged directly into my A97 MFD...) just forward of the keel.  I 
found the hull solid at that pointI suspect that below the water line it 
may be solid...maybe.  The gotcha I did find was that the thickness of the hull 
was greated towards the centerlinethan on the waterline side.  The 
transducer fit flush on the outside, but, the gaskets on the inside did not fit 
flush all the way around.  If/when I feel like loosening the but on the 
transducer I will add some spacers along the waterline side the nut will spin 
on and more equally hold the outside  edge of the transducer flush to the hull. 
 Not this year.


Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 "Alegria" #165
Wuakegan, IL,/ Racine, WI
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Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

2016-05-02 Thread Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List

To confirm, we also have the same configuration, stbd & vee water tanks + 6
gallons in the water heater. Holding is 30ish as Allan said. One of the
selling points of the 30-2 is that you have tankage equal to larger boats
and will make a nice small cruiser. Fuel is 18-19 gallons, which is plenty
for running up the coast from Astoria to the San Juans and Gulf Islands.

We love our 30mkII and only now that we have a 1 year old is it starting to
feel a bit small. I would love to buy another Rob Ball era boat when the
time comes. I very much covet a 1996 36xl at our club. It is a beautiful
and larger version of our own, that is set up well for racing and a bit
better for longer trips offshore. Perhaps some day...

Best,
Kevin

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:31 AM Allan Rheaume via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 30-2 has 28 US gallon under the v-berth, 19 US gallon under the
> starboard seat, 6 US gallon hot water tank in the cockpit locker for a
> total of 53 US gallons. The holding tank is 33 US gallons and it's also in
> the cockpit locker just aft of the hot water tank.
>
> Allan Rheaume
> 30-2 "Drumroll"
>
>
> --
> *From:* Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Lorne Serpa 
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 1, 2016 10:11 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII
> 1988
>
> Sweet!  Thanks for the confirmation.  It's larger  capacity was a
> selection criteria.  They are both suitable for drinking if clean right?  I
> assume just like all the  RV campers I've owned I  the past.  I've never
> owned a live aboard.
> How do you use them in that are they connected or one for kitchen and one
> for bath/shower etc?
> On May 1, 2016 8:07 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Lorne,
>
> My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee
> and one under the V-berth.  78 gallons total sounds about right.  The
> holding tank is aft, under the floor of the starboard lazerette next to the
> water heater.  Not sure if that is a standard or optional configuration,
> but I am pretty sure it came from the factory this way.  Our boat was
> originally shipped to Traverse City and has always been on Lake Michigan.
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> Watts via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:59 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List 
> *Cc:* Jim Watts 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII
> 1988
>
> Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding
> tank plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 1 May 2016 at 16:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons.  The spec sheet in the
> owner's manual says "standard tank size" is 42.5 gallons.  Is there a
> non-standard or optional sizes or do you think the ad for the boat is wrong?
> The line drawings in the manual also shows two tanks, two vents, two
> fillers.  One is on the starboard side and the other under the v berth.
> The boat is 2,000 miles away and I'd look if I could.  Maybe one tank is
> standard and the other optional?  Thanks for any info.
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List anti fouling paint, BC

2016-05-02 Thread Bill Hoyne via CnC-List

I just did my first bottom job up in Sidney. I used Pettit Horizons at the 
recommendations of a few sources (and price). I put on 3 coats and used 3 
gallons. I am hoping for a few years service. We will see what the results are!

Cheers,
Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C MkII
in Victoria,BC

> On May 2, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Paul Baker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey folks,
> Any recommedations from the BC listers for bottom paint? Boat is kept on a 
> mooring and sailed every 2-3 weeks. Not had great success with effective 
> paint the last couple of years, I guess making it more and more eco friendly 
> and dropping the anti slime has also meant it no longer actually works.
> Cheers
> Paul. 
> 
> C mk2
> Sidney, BC. 
> ___
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Propane hot water heater

The only one I have seen on a boat was installed in a nice stainless enclosure 
above deck.
I would really think twice and three times about a propane heater mounted 
below. Unlike a stove, it will be on all the time and turning itself on and off.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jgnadeau via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 13:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jgnadeau
Subject: Stus-List Propane hot water heater

Has anyone installed a propane hot water heater in a first generation 35 MkII? 
If so where did you install it and what brand?
Cheers, J-G
SV Callisto, C 35, MkII
Victoria BC
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Stus-List Propane hot water heater

2016-05-02 Thread Jgnadeau via CnC-List

Has anyone installed a propane hot water heater in a first generation 35 MkII? 
If so where did you install it and what brand?

Cheers, J-G 
SV Callisto, C 35, MkII
Victoria BC___

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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List

Interesting challenge   :-)
Having used it before for a small crack near my keel that reappeared every year 
I suggest you use G/Flex, it fixed my problem 4 years ago ( never cracked again 
). It has more elasticity than regular epoxy, has a 30 minutes working time , 
can be mixed with all West fillers and completely cures in 24 hours ( standard 
epoxy completely cures in 5 days ). After that you can use something like 3M 
Fast cure 4200 and still have some time left to take a beer and enjoy your 
recent accomplishement  :-)
As others have suggested, don't fill the whold 2 in hole, just drill, dig about 
1/2 inch around the hole, wet out carefully with a small brush, then finish up 
to the edge with a filler ( colloidal silica ) and let it for 24 hours .
You may want to check if FastCure 4200 is compatible with your sensor 
plastic.Also leave a gap between the sensor and hole so there will be enough 
caulking.
Another good thing about G/Flex is that it is ( somehow ) possible to apply it 
on wet/humid fiberglass.
And lastly, if it is a plastic transducer, don't overtight when installing, 
typically if should be little more than hand-tight ( Channelocks pliers are 
good for htat if you use it lightly )

Sylvain 
C
WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
   |   |

  |

  |

 


  From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
 Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 11:49 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure
   
I use the 24 hour cure time when the work area temperature is above 60F.

West Systems may offer some direction on how that can be reduced if the epoxy 
is not a primary bond (used as a filler vs. bonding).  A key bit of info from 
West would be how soon you can paint the new epoxy, and how soon it can be 
exposed to water.

If it was my boat I would be sure each step has cured properly, including any 
sealant and coatings.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Steve Thomas via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 7:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right.

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull.

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List

Steve — the hull is probably NOT cored in the usual spot for transducers (near 
centerline, ahead of the keel; usually up under the v-berth or just aft of it). 
 You should be able to drill the hole, slather up the transducer with LifeSeal, 
stick it in and tighten the nut on the inside, then launch within an hour or 
two.

I helped a marina buddy put a new tri-ducer in his  Hunter last summer, 
as part of a Raymarine i70 instrument upgrade.  We had the marina pull the boat 
around 11am, then leave it in the Travelift slings while they went to lunch.  I 
pulled the old transducer, installed the new one, and they launched the boat by 
1pm.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 2, 2016, at 9:25 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Why not the hole the correct size, dig the core out between the inner and 
> outer glass, fill that space with thickened epoxy, and install the transducer?
> A solid glob of hardened epoxy is not even close to being as strong as the 
> hull. If I were doing it, I would put the epoxy in day 1, mount the 
> transducer day 2, and launch day 3.
> YMMV and I am sure you'll get some more detailed advice soon.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:18
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve Thomas
> Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure
> 
> 
> I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
> 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I 
> want to do it right. 
> 
> The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
> follows:
> Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
> fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again 
> and proceed as with a solid hull. 
> 
> How long does the epoxy take to set?
> What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
> I have never used epoxy other than glue. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

“You can’t just plug a 2” hole if you decide transducer is no good.”

Yes you can in fact.  May not be a 1 day job but is done frequently but must be 
done properly

I do however echo the sentiment about using the holes for any existing 
transducers.  A C 36 was a pretty large and expensive boat for its time and 
most owners had speed, depth and wind instrumentation, Likely DataMarine (is 
what we had in our ‘81 36).  Many boats also had solid core extend either side 
of centerline approx. 8 inches just for this purpose.  Your problem comes when 
the old transducer is smaller or larger than the one you have purchased.  If 
smaller then temporarily affix a piece of thin plywood or similar inside and 
use that for the center drill bit in your hole saw.  If new transducer is 
smaller diameter then you will need to spend some time thinking about it but I 
would shop around for a compatible transducer of the same or slightly larger 
size.

To install a transducer in an area if it is indeed cored then as others have 
suggested use a hole saw of the correct size for the transducer, then dig out 
the surrounding areas of core (likely ¼ - ½ inch is enough.  Fill with 
thickened epoxy (I use West 105/205 and 406 or 407 additive.  Wet the areas 
with raw epoxy first and then fill with the thickened.  As Josh Muckley states 
you fine a tube of same diameter and wrap with a release agent.  Saran Wrap 
works reasonably well for this.  24 hours later you should be able to install 
your transducer.  I would use 3M 4200 or similar.  I like things to stay.

Good luck.  While this is not rocket science you do want to take care to do it 
right and not rush the job.  You should also have existing holes for the old 
transducers

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


Usually hull is tapered only where thru-hulls already exist.  Factory doesn’t 
leave spare tapered areas for future upgrades. I don’t want to sound 
discouraging, but I think long and hard before drilling even a smallest hole 
that can sink me.  And you're talking about 2" and trying to get it done at 
crunch time.  See if you can re-purpose and re-organize thru-hulls in a way not 
to drill a new ones.  Do you have an existent transducer you can take out?  You 
might be able to install it on the inside of the hull with good results. There 
are plenty of articles on that.  I had a transducer for Datamarine sandpiper in 
a non-tapered area and took it out to re-purpose the hole.   I found that PO 
did not install it properly.  RTV-like silicone was used and balsa was not 
taken out.  I was lucky that area was dry.

In your case, you can definitely fast cure the stuff, especially in FL.  Maybe 
get pre-made paste like interlux watertite.  Mixing microfibers with west is a 
pain.5200 will definitely still be tacky but that can cure under water.   
Also don’t forget to ask what would it take to undo what you just did.  You 
can’t just plug a 2” hole if you decide transducer is no good.

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Jack Brennan via CnC-List


Hi Steve:

I assume you're still in Florida? With the temperatures in the mid 80s 
already, you will be surprised how quickly the epoxy kicks and cures. Don't 
dawdle after you mix it. One day is plenty of time to cure in this heat, in 
my experience.


Good luck with the new boat.


Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



-Original Message- 
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have 
only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and 
I want to do it right.


The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, 
you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out 
again and proceed as with a solid hull.


How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List

I am with Joe on that. PayPal works great when you buy things, but when you 
sell them..., let’s say, it depends.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa On
Launching this weekend 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 11:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

I like it as a buyer, but as a seller it can have issues. You can read about 
vendors with multiple thousands of dollars locked up in disputes they can’t do 
much about.

So…….your favorite vendor may have a good reason to pass on it ;)

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 11:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

 

Yep I'm aware of that.  It is paypal credit to be more specific.  I've been 
using PayPal for MANY years and have not had any issues.  I both bought and 
sold items.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience.  From my selling experience, I was obliged 
to ship until the moneys cleared.  I'd get a safe to ship confirmation.

Anyway, it was what I needed at the time...

Oh and I just rechecked my invoice, I paid $2633.10 and $9.00 for shipping.  So 
after rebate, I'll have paid $2342 for a complete below deck AP!  I just check 
Hodges again and it is now $2714.00  The retail is like $3200 and defender has 
it $2950.

I'm glad I jumped on it!

Danny

 

 

On 5/2/2016 9:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

  FYI PayPal is doing the 6 month thing, not the vendor, so anyone that can 
take PayPal can “offer” this ;)

  The reason some vendors do not like to deal with PayPal is you get hit with a 
good %  for processing and there are issues where PayPal decides you really 
didn’t ship and takes the money back, discovers the buyer has set up a bad 
account somehow and takes the money back, or otherwise decides to take the 
money back. I sold an iPod, got the money, and forgot to ship it before I went 
on vacation. When I got back 3 days later I got a note the transaction was 
fraudulent and the money had been taken back. Good thing I was late shipping! 
(not a non-shipment issue, the buyer had created a fake account somehow)

  Joe

  Coquina

  C 35 MK I

  Equipped with a heat exchanger paid for via PayPal J

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 09:30
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Danny Haughey
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

   

  Hi Fred,

  I have not asked them to be honest.  probably not but, I'll reach out to them 
too.  The cinching factor on choosing the vendor was that I could pay over 6 
months interest free through PayPal.  It gave me some breathing room 
financially.  Otherwise it would have been a no brainer to buy from you.  Have 
you ever thought about offering the PayPal option for payment?  I understand if 
you are not willing to contribute advice to a non customer.  No worries!  I 
Impulsively purchased the AP for $2660 just before the rebate offer expired and 
got the no payments no interest for 6 months.  It was a really good deal!

  I did install instruments on my last boat.  Plotter, Instruments and auto 
pilot.  So, I have some experience.  Those were not all matched up though.  I 
was thinking this might be a bit easier using the connectors.
  The AP is going to be a challenge in mounting the drive.  I think that is 
more work and fabrication than anything else.  So, that will come in the latter 
part of the install.  I also have to buy the tiller arm...

  Danny

  On 5/2/2016 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Danny — is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support on 
design/install…?   :^) 

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

  On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

   

  Hello all,
  I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got 
the radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.  

  The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were 
installed last summer.

  Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are 
supposed to all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show how to 
connect everything?

  I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me 
to install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm if 
I install the Plotter there. 

  I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.

  Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running 
cable?  I was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near the 
rudder post under the cockpit. Course

Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

I like it as a buyer, but as a seller it can have issues. You can read about 
vendors with multiple thousands of dollars locked up in disputes they can't do 
much about.
So...your favorite vendor may have a good reason to pass on it ;)
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 11:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation


Yep I'm aware of that.  It is paypal credit to be more specific.  I've been 
using PayPal for MANY years and have not had any issues.  I both bought and 
sold items.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience.  From my selling experience, I was obliged 
to ship until the moneys cleared.  I'd get a safe to ship confirmation.

Anyway, it was what I needed at the time...

Oh and I just rechecked my invoice, I paid $2633.10 and $9.00 for shipping.  So 
after rebate, I'll have paid $2342 for a complete below deck AP!  I just check 
Hodges again and it is now $2714.00  The retail is like $3200 and defender has 
it $2950.

I'm glad I jumped on it!

Danny



On 5/2/2016 9:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
FYI PayPal is doing the 6 month thing, not the vendor, so anyone that can take 
PayPal can "offer" this ;)
The reason some vendors do not like to deal with PayPal is you get hit with a 
good %  for processing and there are issues where PayPal decides you really 
didn't ship and takes the money back, discovers the buyer has set up a bad 
account somehow and takes the money back, or otherwise decides to take the 
money back. I sold an iPod, got the money, and forgot to ship it before I went 
on vacation. When I got back 3 days later I got a note the transaction was 
fraudulent and the money had been taken back. Good thing I was late shipping! 
(not a non-shipment issue, the buyer had created a fake account somehow)
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
Equipped with a heat exchanger paid for via PayPal :)


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 09:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

Hi Fred,

I have not asked them to be honest.  probably not but, I'll reach out to them 
too.  The cinching factor on choosing the vendor was that I could pay over 6 
months interest free through PayPal.  It gave me some breathing room 
financially.  Otherwise it would have been a no brainer to buy from you.  Have 
you ever thought about offering the PayPal option for payment?  I understand if 
you are not willing to contribute advice to a non customer.  No worries!  I 
Impulsively purchased the AP for $2660 just before the rebate offer expired and 
got the no payments no interest for 6 months.  It was a really good deal!

I did install instruments on my last boat.  Plotter, Instruments and auto 
pilot.  So, I have some experience.  Those were not all matched up though.  I 
was thinking this might be a bit easier using the connectors.
The AP is going to be a challenge in mounting the drive.  I think that is more 
work and fabrication than anything else.  So, that will come in the latter part 
of the install.  I also have to buy the tiller arm...

Danny
On 5/2/2016 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny - is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support on 
design/install...?   :^)

- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hello all,
I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got the 
radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.

The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were installed 
last summer.

Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are supposed to 
all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show how to connect 
everything?

I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me to 
install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm if I 
install the Plotter there.

I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.

Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running cable?  I 
was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near the rudder post 
under the cockpit. Course computer could go there, then all the cabling to and 
from it would be short.

Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Danny
T40
Mattapoisett MA






___



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Martin DeYoung via CnC-List

I use the 24 hour cure time when the work area temperature is above 60F.

West Systems may offer some direction on how that can be reduced if the epoxy 
is not a primary bond (used as a filler vs. bonding).  A key bit of info from 
West would be how soon you can paint the new epoxy, and how soon it can be 
exposed to water.

If it was my boat I would be sure each step has cured properly, including any 
sealant and coatings.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Steve Thomas via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 7:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right.

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull.

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



___

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greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

Yep I'm aware of that.  It is paypal credit to be more specific. I've 
been using PayPal for MANY years and have not had any issues.  I both 
bought and sold items.


I'm sorry you had a bad experience.  From my selling experience, I was 
obliged to ship until the moneys cleared.  I'd get a safe to ship 
confirmation.


Anyway, it was what I needed at the time...

Oh and I just rechecked my invoice, I paid $2633.10 and $9.00 for 
shipping.  So after rebate, I'll have paid $2342 for a complete below 
deck AP!  I just check Hodges again and it is now $2714.00 The retail is 
like $3200 and defender has it $2950.


I'm glad I jumped on it!

Danny



On 5/2/2016 9:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


FYI PayPal is doing the 6 month thing, not the vendor, so anyone that 
can take PayPal can “offer” this ;)


The reason some vendors do not like to deal with PayPal is you get hit 
with a good %  for processing and there are issues where PayPal 
decides you really didn’t ship and takes the money back, discovers the 
buyer has set up a bad account somehow and takes the money back, or 
otherwise decides to take the money back. I sold an iPod, got the 
money, and forgot to ship it before I went on vacation. When I got 
back 3 days later I got a note the transaction was fraudulent and the 
money had been taken back. Good thing I was late shipping! (not a 
non-shipment issue, the buyer had created a fake account somehow)


Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

Equipped with a heat exchanger paid for via PayPal J

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, May 02, 2016 09:30
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

Hi Fred,

I have not asked them to be honest.  probably not but, I'll reach out 
to them too.  The cinching factor on choosing the vendor was that I 
could pay over 6 months interest free through PayPal.  It gave me some 
breathing room financially. Otherwise it would have been a no brainer 
to buy from you. Have you ever thought about offering the PayPal 
option for payment?  I understand if you are not willing to contribute 
advice to a non customer.  No worries!  I Impulsively purchased the AP 
for $2660 just before the rebate offer expired and got the no payments 
no interest for 6 months.  It was a really good deal!


I did install instruments on my last boat.  Plotter, Instruments and 
auto pilot.  So, I have some experience. Those were not all matched up 
though.  I was thinking this might be a bit easier using the connectors.
The AP is going to be a challenge in mounting the drive.  I think that 
is more work and fabrication than anything else. So, that will come in 
the latter part of the install.  I also have to buy the tiller arm...


Danny

On 5/2/2016 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Danny — is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any
support on design/install…?   :^)

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V /Oceanis/ (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(

On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> wrote:

Hello all,
I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All
raymarine.  I got the radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200
below deck auto pilot.

The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments
that were installed last summer.

Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.
 These are supposed to all work together.  Are there any
diagrams available to show how to connect everything?

I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would
that lead me to install the control head in another location
so there isn't 2 at the helm if I install the Plotter there.

I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the
whole plan.

Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far
running cable?  I was thinking the AP components could all be
installed very near the rudder post under the cockpit. Course
computer could go there, then all the cabling to and from it
would be short.

Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Danny
T40
Mattapoisett MA




___

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like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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This list is

Stus-List Riser for rope clutches - what to make it out of?

2016-05-02 Thread Andrew Means via CnC-List

Hey all - 

I posted a bit ago with my obscenely overwrought diagrams for how I was 
planning on running some of my lines aft. My crew is generally made up of drunk 
Seattle hipsters, so the simpler I can make things for them the better.

There’s a problem though - the companionway hatch cover seam is right in line 
with the direct path for the lines to take as they run under the traveler to 
the winch.

Here is the diagram showing the overall situation:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bkh0uzetxmwd5b/Screenshot%202016-05-02%2008.09.03.png?dl=0

And here’s a series of photos that show it: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/203020/Safari/Projects/Running%20Rigging (I 
know the rope clutch is backwards here, we were just mocking it up : )

So I’m thinking of having a block made of something (StarBoard? Acrylic? Teak?) 
to mount the cleats/clutches on (since they could do to be raised anyway) and 
bolt the hardware to the block, and then bolt the block to the cabintop (using 
the existing screw hole for the corner of the block that goes over the 
companionway hatch seam).

Questions:

A) What should I make this riser out of?
B) Where should I get it cut/milled in Seattle? I want to match the slope of 
the cabin top so the top of the riser is flat.
C) How much should I overbuild this? This is going to be my two reefing lines 
and my main sheet (I plan on having a matching riser on the starboard side for 
boom vang, main halyard and topping lift). Should I bolt as much hardware as I 
can all the way through the board?

Andrew  

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

2016-05-02 Thread Allan Rheaume via CnC-List

My 30-2 has 28 US gallon under the v-berth, 19 US gallon under the starboard 
seat, 6 US gallon hot water tank in the cockpit locker for a total of 53 US 
gallons. The holding tank is 33 US gallons and it's also in the cockpit locker 
just aft of the hot water tank.
Allan Rheaume30-2 "Drumroll"

  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
 Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 10:11 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

Sweet!  Thanks for the confirmation.  It's larger  capacity was a selection 
criteria.  They are both suitable for drinking if clean right?  I assume just 
like all the  RV campers I've owned I  the past.  I've never owned a live 
aboard. How do you use them in that are they connected or one for kitchen and 
one for bath/shower etc? On May 1, 2016 8:07 PM, "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Lorne, My 1988 30-2 has 2 tanks as you describe, one starboard under the settee 
and one under the V-berth.  78 gallons total sounds about right.  The holding 
tank is aft, under the floor of the starboard lazerette next to the water 
heater.  Not sure if that is a standard or optional configuration, but I am 
pretty sure it came from the factory this way.  Our boat was originally shipped 
to Traverse City and has always been on Lake Michigan. Jim ReinardyC 30-2 
“Firewater”Milwaukee, WI   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:59 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988 
Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding tank 
plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC On 1 May 2016 at 16:13, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The ad for my boat says water is 78 gallons.  The spec sheet in the owner's 
manual says "standard tank size" is 42.5 gallons.  Is there a non-standard or 
optional sizes or do you think the ad for the boat is wrong?The line drawings 
in the manual also shows two tanks, two vents, two fillers.  One is on the 
starboard side and the other under the v berth.  The boat is 2,000 miles away 
and I'd look if I could.  Maybe one tank is standard and the other optional?  
Thanks for any info.
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List

You can use something like the west systems six/10, then you don't have to
mix anything.  It sticks like peanut butter and injects into whatever shape
or area you desire with a calk gun.

You can also get a PVC pipe or other 2" form to hold the epoxy in place.
Coat it with "mold release".  Make a couple of "injection" ports at the rim
to allow you to stick the nozzle in and inject until it comes out the other
ports.

That being said I would probably wet out the hole by brushing on regular
epoxy to the insides of the hole before using the six/10.

Once it is all cured you can knock out the PVC pipe.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 2, 2016 10:19 AM, "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
>  I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have
> only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole,
> and I want to do it right.
>
>  The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as
> follows:
>  Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole,
> you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out
> again and proceed as with a solid hull.
>
> How long does the epoxy take to set?
> What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
> I have never used epoxy other than glue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Leak in my fuel Tank

2016-05-02 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List

I completely replaced my primary fuel tank a couple years ago.  Be aware that 
they are very thin--about 0.090 inches thick.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 2, 2016, at 10:58 AM, allen via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Bad news, found some diesel in the bilge.  Sopped it up with absorbent 
> blanket, traced the leak back to the bottom of the 18 gallon aluminum tank 
> under the aft berth.  Tank sits in a molded tray, now filled with diesel.  
> More absorbent blankets now at work.  Pumped and cleaned 9 gallons of fuel 
> into jerry cans.  I suspect a leaking weld.
>  
> Anyone have similar symptoms?  What was cause?  It will be another day or two 
> before I can pull tank and take a look.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima
> Hampton, VA
> 
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure
> 
> Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on temperature.  
> A heat gun changes the equation!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>  I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have 
>> only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and 
>> I want to do it right.
>> 
>>  The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
>> follows:
>>  Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, 
>> you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out 
>> again and proceed as with a solid hull.
>> 
>> How long does the epoxy take to set?
>> What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
>> I have never used epoxy other than glue.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Steve Thomas
>> C
>> Merritt Island, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel question

2016-05-02 Thread Franklin Schenk via CnC-List

I agree on the black smoke due to poor combustion of the diesel fuel.  However, 
I doubt that the lubrication oil would enter the combustion chamber unless the 
rings are badly worn.  With only a few hundred hours on the engine they should 
be as good as new.  I once had an oil change and the guy put in twice the 
proper amount of oil.  I went on a trip the next day and drove about 800 miles 
before I checked the oil level.  There was no damage to the engine.
Frank 

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 10:29 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 Tom,

One thing you might try is to  is to see what type of smoke you're 
getting.  Burning lubricating oil tends to be blue/white, which 
indicates your might have excess oil splashed up from the crankcase to 
the cylinder walls.  Some splash is normal, that's the way the rings are 
lubricated, but if the oil level is too high you could get burning.  If 
it's black smoke, it indicates poor combustion and unburned fuel, which 
can happen when a diesel is overloaded, or some other kind of fuel 
injection issue.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 5/1/2016 9:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
> Alera is my second C, but my first diesel.  My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4.
>
> I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like 
> once a season.  Last summer I learned the error of my ways.  But I over 
> compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine.
>
> Our engine only had 489 hours and was in excellent condition.  I just changed 
> the oil today, but before that we did a sail.  I notice at at cripuising RPS 
> she was smoking pretty bad.
>
> Is this from overfilling or you you all think I did some real damage?
>
> Minor error or major disaster...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

  ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Petar Horvatic via CnC-List

Usually hull is tapered only where thru-hulls already exist.  Factory doesn’t 
leave spare tapered areas for future upgrades. I don’t want to sound 
discouraging, but I think long and hard before drilling even a smallest hole 
that can sink me.  And you're talking about 2" and trying to get it done at 
crunch time.  See if you can re-purpose and re-organize thru-hulls in a way not 
to drill a new ones.  Do you have an existent transducer you can take out?  You 
might be able to install it on the inside of the hull with good results. There 
are plenty of articles on that.  I had a transducer for Datamarine sandpiper in 
a non-tapered area and took it out to re-purpose the hole.   I found that PO 
did not install it properly.  RTV-like silicone was used and balsa was not 
taken out.  I was lucky that area was dry.

In your case, you can definitely fast cure the stuff, especially in FL.  Maybe 
get pre-made paste like interlux watertite.  Mixing microfibers with west is a 
pain.5200 will definitely still be tacky but that can cure under water.   
Also don’t forget to ask what would it take to undo what you just did.  You 
can’t just plug a 2” hole if you decide transducer is no good.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

 

Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on temperature.  A 
heat gun changes the equation!

 

Joel

 

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right.

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull.

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



___

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greatly appreciated!





 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List Leak in my fuel Tank

2016-05-02 Thread allen via CnC-List

Bad news, found some diesel in the bilge.  Sopped it up with absorbent blanket, 
traced the leak back to the bottom of the 18 gallon aluminum tank under the aft 
berth.  Tank sits in a molded tray, now filled with diesel.  More absorbent 
blankets now at work.  Pumped and cleaned 9 gallons of fuel into jerry cans.  I 
suspect a leaking weld.

Anyone have similar symptoms?  What was cause?  It will be another day or two 
before I can pull tank and take a look.

Thanks,

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on temperature.  A 
heat gun changes the equation! 


Joel


On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:


   I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have 
only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I 
want to do it right.

   The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
   Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, 
you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again 
and proceed as with a solid hull.

  How long does the epoxy take to set?
  What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
  I have never used epoxy other than glue.

  Thanks,

  Steve Thomas
  C
  Merritt Island, FL



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551





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Re: Stus-List Eagled

2016-05-02 Thread Marek Fluder via CnC-List

Tom,

If this is the type you have it should be servicable:
http://www.olajedatos.com/documentos/New%20Windvane%20ser%20man.pdf

Marek
C320
Hamilton, ON

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:27 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The great Bald Eagle is a majestic bird and it's wonderful that we have
> them where we live.  Until they land on your masthead.
>
> It appears that one trashed the sensor head for my Raymarine ST60 wind
> instruments.  Speed seems fine but the wind direction arrow thing is done.
>
> Anyone know if the sensor head is modular or can be repaired or are they a
> one piece "disposable" part.
>
> BTW, Alera means eagle in Latin.  Ya think they cut us some slack...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

2016-05-02 Thread allen via CnC-List

Septima has two tanks; one under starboard settee, one under the vee berth. 
A little over 42 gallons.  I added a bladder tank behind the port settee 
plumbed to the head so we get a fresh water flush and no stinky bay water in 
the head.  Offshore I can change over to ocean water to conserve fresh 
water.  Used only for the head, it's only about 10 gallons and it's useful 
for lateral trim.


Allen Miles

--
From: "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 8:32 AM
To: 
Cc: "Steve Thomas" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

There is often confusion between imperial and american gallons, and 
sometimes litres. I used to prepare daily cost analysis reports first 
thing in the morning, and the last thing to do before printing it off and 
handing it to the bosses was what we called the "sanity check" - do the 
numbers make sense.


78 imperial gallons of water weighs 780 pounds.

On the other hand, 78 litres is equivalent to 20.6 U.S. gallons, which is 
a pretty common size.


Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



 David via CnC-List  wrote:
Specifically I have no idea, but to provide some perspective my 1981 40' 
has two 30 gallon water tanks and a 20 gallon holding tank.


I highly doubt you have a 78 gallon water tank or a 35.5 gallon holding 
tank on a 30'.  That's a lot of tank.



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 18:59:16 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 
1988

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: paradigmat...@gmail.com

Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding 
tank plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



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Stus-List anti fouling paint, BC

2016-05-02 Thread Paul Baker via CnC-List

Hey folks,
Any recommedations from the BC listers for bottom paint? Boat is kept on a 
mooring and sailed every 2-3 weeks. Not had great success with effective paint 
the last couple of years, I guess making it more and more eco friendly and 
dropping the anti slime has also meant it no longer actually works.
Cheers
Paul. 

C mk2
Sidney, BC. 
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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

2016-05-02 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List

Joe,

I don't particularly care for a permanently mounted ladder so I have one of
these for Touche'.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--removable-folding-transom-ladders--P012868543

Think it's the 4 step version.  I normally stow it in the port cockpit
using a couple of these:

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--ladder-hinge-clip--13947171

You could always get one here:

http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ladders.html

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:49 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good news is the vendor has a 14 day return policy J
>
> Bad news is I cannot find the ladder I want **anywhere**, cheap or not!
> Did the standard sailboat stern ladder become illegal or something?
>
> Anyone got a hint?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joe
> Della Barba via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 30, 2016 12:27
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joe Della Barba
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List boarding ladder
>
>
>
> I am sending it back. I maybe should have looked more at the measurements
> – it looks like it came from a 1/3 scale model!
>
> It might be good for a RIB in the 14-16 foot range maybe? I checked to see
> if it would fit the dinghy and it would except the vertical mounts are too
> tall for the dinghy stern and WAY short for the big boat.
>
> There is no free lunch after all L
>
> On the good side it looks well made, just sized for 10 year olds! Maybe
> stick it on a 420?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *"Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
> *To: *"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Cc: *"Joe Della Barba" 
> *Sent: *Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
> *Subject: *Stus-List boarding ladder
>
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr
>
>
>
> Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and
> forth or can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The
> trees are going full blast here!
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Is the hull cored where you are drilling?  Cure time depends on
temperature.  A heat gun changes the equation!

Joel

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>  I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have
> only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole,
> and I want to do it right.
>
>  The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as
> follows:
>  Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole,
> you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out
> again and proceed as with a solid hull.
>
> How long does the epoxy take to set?
> What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
> I have never used epoxy other than glue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Eagled

2016-05-02 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

The great Bald Eagle is a majestic bird and it's wonderful that we have them 
where we live.  Until they land on your masthead.

It appears that one trashed the sensor head for my Raymarine ST60 wind 
instruments.  Speed seems fine but the wind direction arrow thing is done.

Anyone know if the sensor head is modular or can be repaired or are they a one 
piece "disposable" part.

BTW, Alera means eagle in Latin.  Ya think they cut us some slack...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

Why not the hole the correct size, dig the core out between the inner and outer 
glass, fill that space with thickened epoxy, and install the transducer?
A solid glob of hardened epoxy is not even close to being as strong as the 
hull. If I were doing it, I would put the epoxy in day 1, mount the transducer 
day 2, and launch day 3.
YMMV and I am sure you'll get some more detailed advice soon.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right. 

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull. 

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue. 

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

2016-05-02 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List


 I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have only 
2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and I want 
to do it right. 

 The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
 Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, you 
fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out again and 
proceed as with a solid hull. 

How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue. 

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

I think I got the one for the Viking at the Binnacle if I recall. It
was reasonably priced and sturdy but, didn't fold in the middle. Off
the back of the viking, the 2nd step was just below the water and one
step was below that. It just had the one hinge point at the mounting
brackets. it was 12" wide and worked pretty well for us. The only
thing is that the rungs are sore on bare feet...

Here is the link

http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=5308

Danny

On 5/2/2016 9:49 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

Good news is the vendor has a 14 day return policy J

Bad news is I cannot find the ladder I want **anywhere**, cheap or
not! Did the standard sailboat stern ladder become illegal or something?

Anyone got a hint?

Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*Joe Della Barba via CnC-List

*Sent:* Saturday, April 30, 2016 12:27
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Joe Della Barba
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

I am sending it back. I maybe should have looked more at the
measurements – it looks like it came from a 1/3 scale model!

It might be good for a RIB in the 14-16 foot range maybe? I checked to
see if it would fit the dinghy and it would except the vertical mounts
are too tall for the dinghy stern and WAY short for the big boat.

There is no free lunch after all L

On the good side it looks well made, just sized for 10 year olds!
Maybe stick it on a 420?

Joe

Coquina

*From: *"Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" >
*To: *"cnc-list@cnc-list.com "
>
*Cc: *"Joe Della Barba" >

*Sent: *Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List boarding ladder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and
forth or can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?

Joe

Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday.
The trees are going full blast here!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

2016-05-02 Thread David via CnC-List

Joe,

I saw a ladder similar to mine at Wickford (RI) Marine consignment shop.  My 
ladder is on the transom secured by clevis pins and pivots up...

May be worth a call...(401) 295-9709

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 13:49:23 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov









Good news is the vendor has a 14 day return policy
J
Bad news is I cannot find the ladder I want *anywhere*, cheap or not! Did the 
standard sailboat stern ladder become illegal or something?
Anyone got a hint?
Thanks!
Joe
Coquina
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 12:27

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joe Della Barba

Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder


 
I am sending it back. I maybe should have looked more at the measurements – it 
looks like it came from a 1/3 scale model!
It might be good for a RIB in the 14-16 foot range maybe? I checked to see if 
it would fit the dinghy and it would except the vertical mounts are too tall 
for the dinghy stern and WAY short for the big boat.
There is no free lunch after all 
L
On the good side it looks well made, just sized for 10 year olds! Maybe stick 
it on a 420?
Joe
Coquina
 
 

 



 


From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 

To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Cc: "Joe Della Barba" 

Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM

Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

 



http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr
 
Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina
 
PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!




___

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


 






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greatly appreciated!



Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

Good news is the vendor has a 14 day return policy ☺
Bad news is I cannot find the ladder I want *anywhere*, cheap or not! Did the 
standard sailboat stern ladder become illegal or something?
Anyone got a hint?
Thanks!
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 12:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

I am sending it back. I maybe should have looked more at the measurements – it 
looks like it came from a 1/3 scale model!
It might be good for a RIB in the 14-16 foot range maybe? I checked to see if 
it would fit the dinghy and it would except the vertical mounts are too tall 
for the dinghy stern and WAY short for the big boat.
There is no free lunch after all ☹
On the good side it looks well made, just sized for 10 year olds! Maybe stick 
it on a 420?
Joe
Coquina




From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" >
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

FYI PayPal is doing the 6 month thing, not the vendor, so anyone that can take 
PayPal can "offer" this ;)
The reason some vendors do not like to deal with PayPal is you get hit with a 
good %  for processing and there are issues where PayPal decides you really 
didn't ship and takes the money back, discovers the buyer has set up a bad 
account somehow and takes the money back, or otherwise decides to take the 
money back. I sold an iPod, got the money, and forgot to ship it before I went 
on vacation. When I got back 3 days later I got a note the transaction was 
fraudulent and the money had been taken back. Good thing I was late shipping! 
(not a non-shipment issue, the buyer had created a fake account somehow)
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
Equipped with a heat exchanger paid for via PayPal :)


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 09:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

Hi Fred,

I have not asked them to be honest.  probably not but, I'll reach out to them 
too.  The cinching factor on choosing the vendor was that I could pay over 6 
months interest free through PayPal.  It gave me some breathing room 
financially.  Otherwise it would have been a no brainer to buy from you.  Have 
you ever thought about offering the PayPal option for payment?  I understand if 
you are not willing to contribute advice to a non customer.  No worries!  I 
Impulsively purchased the AP for $2660 just before the rebate offer expired and 
got the no payments no interest for 6 months.  It was a really good deal!

I did install instruments on my last boat.  Plotter, Instruments and auto 
pilot.  So, I have some experience.  Those were not all matched up though.  I 
was thinking this might be a bit easier using the connectors.
The AP is going to be a challenge in mounting the drive.  I think that is more 
work and fabrication than anything else.  So, that will come in the latter part 
of the install.  I also have to buy the tiller arm...

Danny
On 5/2/2016 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny - is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support on 
design/install...?   :^)

- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hello all,
I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got the 
radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.

The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were installed 
last summer.

Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are supposed to 
all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show how to connect 
everything?

I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me to 
install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm if I 
install the Plotter there.

I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.

Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running cable?  I 
was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near the rudder post 
under the cockpit. Course computer could go there, then all the cabling to and 
from it would be short.

Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Danny
T40
Mattapoisett MA





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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation


Hi Fred,

I have not asked them to be honest.  probably not but, I'll reach out to 
them too.  The cinching factor on choosing the vendor was that I could 
pay over 6 months interest free through PayPal.  It gave me some 
breathing room financially.  Otherwise it would have been a no brainer 
to buy from you.  Have you ever thought about offering the PayPal option 
for payment?  I understand if you are not willing to contribute advice 
to a non customer.  No worries!  I Impulsively purchased the AP for 
$2660 just before the rebate offer expired and got the no payments no 
interest for 6 months.  It was a really good deal!


I did install instruments on my last boat.  Plotter, Instruments and 
auto pilot.  So, I have some experience.  Those were not all matched up 
though.  I was thinking this might be a bit easier using the connectors.
The AP is going to be a challenge in mounting the drive.  I think that 
is more work and fabrication than anything else.  So, that will come in 
the latter part of the install.  I also have to buy the tiller arm...


Danny

On 5/2/2016 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support 
on design/install…?   :^)


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hello all,
I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I 
got the radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.


The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were 
installed last summer.


Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are 
supposed to all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to 
show how to connect everything?


I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead 
me to install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 
at the helm if I install the Plotter there.


I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole 
plan.


Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running 
cable?  I was thinking the AP components could all be installed very 
near the rudder post under the cockpit. Course computer could go 
there, then all the cabling to and from it would be short.


Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Danny
T40
Mattapoisett MA




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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List

Fred,

Would you mind if I shared the diagram you sent me? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






On May 2, 2016, at 9:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Danny — is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support on 
design/install…?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got the 
> radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.  
> 
> The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were 
> installed last summer.
> 
> Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are supposed 
> to all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show how to 
> connect everything?
> 
> I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me to 
> install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm if 
> I install the Plotter there. 
> 
> I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.
> 
> Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running cable?  
> I was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near the rudder 
> post under the cockpit. Course computer could go there, then all the cabling 
> to and from it would be short.
> 
> Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Danny
> T40
> Mattapoisett MA

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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List

Danny — is the vendor you purchased the gear from offering any support on 
design/install…?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 2, 2016, at 5:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got the 
> radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.  
> 
> The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were 
> installed last summer.
> 
> Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are supposed 
> to all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show how to 
> connect everything?
> 
> I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me to 
> install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm if 
> I install the Plotter there. 
> 
> I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.
> 
> Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running cable?  
> I was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near the rudder 
> post under the cockpit. Course computer could go there, then all the cabling 
> to and from it would be short.
> 
> Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Danny
> T40
> Mattapoisett MA

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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

My only thought on running any helm mounted electronics is to avoid external 
wiring at all costs.  When someone loses their balance walking around the helm 
in a seaway or even at anchor, they will grab the first available "thing" to 
keep from falling.  If the "thing" is a loose wire or is attached to a wire, it 
is easy to dislodge the tiny internal wires from their connectors, rendering 
the instrument inoperable.  And those connectors will have a better chance of 
remaining corrosion free if they're enclosed in a housing.  Half Magic's new ES 
75 is going in a pod on an enclosed arm attached to the pedestal guard. NMEA 
2000 backbone being run bow to stern for future additional instruments, radar, 
AIS and autopilot.

Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Danny,
> 
> About to do this again.  
> 
> The AP control does not need to be in your face but needs to be within arm's 
> reach.  Consider a swiveling pod for the plotter unless you always steer from 
> behind the helm.  Personally, I don't like a big pod with a lot of 
> instruments.  I'm not a pilot.  This time I am mounting my e7 using a RAM 
> mount and no pod.
> The NG connectors are smaller than NMEA 2000 connectors which makes 
> everything easier to run.  There are diagrams of layouts in the manuals.  The 
> terminal blocks Brad writes about allow you to connect everything together.  
> If you get NMEA 2000 stuff, do not use the Garmin tees, as they are all 
> plastic and will fail if bent.  The EV200 does need a heavy cable.  The guy 
> who installed mine used 8 guage for a fairly short run.
> 
> I'm sure Fred will have more (and better) advice when he sees this thread!
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:41 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Did much the same last year, without radar, the "backbone" cable and the 
>> terminal blocks make it easy. You need to run separate fused power to the 
>> backbone, the mfd, and to the autopilot. IIRC you need to run a heavy ground 
>> from the AP computer back to your main ground. There are adapter cables to 
>> link nmea2000 instruments in to the backbone. Rereading your post, it sounds 
>> like your instruments are all STng so adapters shouldn't be needed unless 
>> you are using chartplotter for data for DSC radio. My suggestion is to think 
>> really hard about where you need a second AP control and where to mount the 
>> flux gate compass away from interference (speakers, magnetic tools, electric 
>> motors, etc) before you worry about cabling. There are a few lengths of 
>> cable available, you may be able to place terminal blocks strategically and 
>> run spur cables from individual instruments. 2 Instruments can be 
>> "daisy-chained" together and a single spur run to the terminal block. Hope 
>> you live close to the raymarine dealer, I made a few trips back. Salute to 
>> the dealer in Muskegon.
>> In my experience, the iPad will let you check on position and heading etc 
>> but you can't adjust course with it. 
>> There are more learned people here that can help more than me. I've had some 
>> luck with the raymarine forum, they just take a day to get back with an 
>> answer.
>> Brad
>> "Pulse" C 33 MkII
>> Lake Huron (soon)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I'd rather be sailing
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Electronics installation

And yes the AP is controllable through the MFD
Brad
"Pulse"


I'd rather be sailing

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Stus-List Electronics installation

I mounted my AP control next the companionway, on the cabin bulkhead, I use it 
when tacking singlehanded. 
Brad
"Pulse"


I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List

There are two places where you'll find that you want to be able to operate
the AP.  First is directly at the helm.  The MFD should satisfy that need.
The second place is one that is convenient if you decide to singlehand the
boat.  Something close to the main sheet trimmers position.

When I tack singlehandedly I stand in front of the wheel.  I reach to the
AP control to tell it I want to tack.  It asks which way, port or stbd.
Once I push the button to select the direction I have a few seconds to let
the traveler down (up on the new tack), and then have to move promptly to
let off the old working jib sheet and the right to pulling in the new
working jib sheet.  Afterwards, I have to go back to the AP to tweak my
course as close to the wind as possible.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 2, 2016 6:45 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hello all,
I'm about to start installing some electronics.  All raymarine.  I got the
radar/chart plotter combo and a ev200 below deck auto pilot.

The boat already has raymarine wind,speed,depth instruments that were
installed last summer.

Is hoping I could get some advice on layout and cabling.  These are
supposed to all work together.  Are there any diagrams available to show
how to connect everything?

I understand the AP can be controlled thru the MFD.  Would that lead me to
install the control head in another location so there isn't 2 at the helm
if I install the Plotter there.

I've also acquired an iPad 2 with GPS I can use as part of the whole plan.

Does using all recent raymarine ease the installation as far running
cable?  I was thinking the AP components could all be installed very near
the rudder post under the cockpit.  Course computer could go there, then
all the cabling to and from it would be short.

Anyway, any insights or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Danny
T40
Mattapoisett MA
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Electronics installation

2016-05-02 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Danny,

About to do this again.

The AP control does not need to be in your face but needs to be within
arm's reach.  Consider a swiveling pod for the plotter unless you always
steer from behind the helm.  Personally, I don't like a big pod with a lot
of instruments.  I'm not a pilot.  This time I am mounting my e7 using a
RAM mount and no pod.
The NG connectors are smaller than NMEA 2000 connectors which makes
everything easier to run.  There are diagrams of layouts in the manuals.
The terminal blocks Brad writes about allow you to connect everything
together.
If you get NMEA 2000 stuff, do not use the Garmin tees, as they are all
plastic and will fail if bent.  The EV200 does need a heavy cable.  The guy
who installed mine used 8 guage for a fairly short run.

I'm sure Fred will have more (and better) advice when he sees this thread!
Joel

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 8:41 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did much the same last year, without radar, the "backbone" cable and the
> terminal blocks make it easy. You need to run separate fused power to the
> backbone, the mfd, and to the autopilot. IIRC you need to run a heavy
> ground from the AP computer back to your main ground. There are adapter
> cables to link nmea2000 instruments in to the backbone. Rereading your
> post, it sounds like your instruments are all STng so adapters shouldn't be
> needed unless you are using chartplotter for data for DSC radio. My
> suggestion is to think really hard about where you need a second AP control
> and where to mount the flux gate compass away from interference (speakers,
> magnetic tools, electric motors, etc) before you worry about cabling.
> There are a few lengths of cable available, you may be able to place
> terminal blocks strategically and run spur cables from individual
> instruments. 2 Instruments can be "daisy-chained" together and a single
> spur run to the terminal block. Hope you live close to the raymarine
> dealer, I made a few trips back. Salute to the dealer in Muskegon.
> In my experience, the iPad will let you check on position and heading etc
> but you can't adjust course with it.
> There are more learned people here that can help more than me. I've had
> some luck with the raymarine forum, they just take a day to get back with
> an answer.
> Brad
> "Pulse" C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron (soon)
>
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Electronics installation

There are a few diagrams available on the Raymarine website
www.raymarine.com/view/?id=5080 Here is a sample.
Brad

I'd rather be sailing

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Stus-List Electronics installation

Did much the same last year, without radar, the "backbone" cable and the 
terminal blocks make it easy. You need to run separate fused power to the 
backbone, the mfd, and to the autopilot. IIRC you need to run a heavy ground 
from the AP computer back to your main ground. There are adapter cables to link 
nmea2000 instruments in to the backbone. Rereading your post, it sounds like 
your instruments are all STng so adapters shouldn't be needed unless you are 
using chartplotter for data for DSC radio. My suggestion is to think really 
hard about where you need a second AP control and where to mount the flux gate 
compass away from interference (speakers, magnetic tools, electric motors, etc) 
before you worry about cabling. There are a few lengths of cable available, you 
may be able to place terminal blocks strategically and run spur cables from 
individual instruments. 2 Instruments can be "daisy-chained" together and a 
single spur run to the terminal block. Hope you live close to the raymarine 
dealer, I made a few trips back. Salute to the dealer in Muskegon.
In my experience, the iPad will let you check on position and heading etc but 
you can't adjust course with it. 
There are more learned people here that can help more than me. I've had some 
luck with the raymarine forum, they just take a day to get back with an answer.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 MkII
Lake Huron (soon)



I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

2016-05-02 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

It looks as though the sail may have been purchased used from another boat.  It 
is a bit short on the hoist and quite short on the foot.

In our area we do not give any credits for an undersized main.  One option is 
to buy a new properly sized main if you plan to do much racing.  However before 
you do any of this measure the length of the foot of the sail and then measure 
the length of the boom.  On a C 30-1 the E measurement is 11.5 feet.  The 
length of the sail foot should be very close to that and the length of the boom 
should only be 3-4 inches longer than that.  From the pictures it almost looks 
more like the boom was replaced with a longer boom than that the sail foot is 
too short

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 1:25 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

Randy,

A PO raised Touche's boom about 6-8 inches.  I've never considered that enough 
to file for a change to my PHRF rating since my main sail extends fully to the 
design E dimension.

However, your main sounds considerably smaller than design.  Is that reflected 
in your handicap rating?  If not, you might explore appealing for a credit.  
Not sure how your local rating organization handles changes but you could see 
if you can get a credit if you leave it like it is.  I would appeal my rating 
for a 3-6 second credit if the boat was in my rating area.  Some advantages to 
this.  You can keep your existing main while you learn the boat.  If you buy a 
new main, it will cost less.  Your crew will appreciate the headroom.
Remember, your boat is primarily driven by the head sail.  The main sail 
creates the slot and influences the flow through the slot to provide drive.

If you decide to return to design dimensions, just don't exceed your design P 
and E dimensions and you should be OK.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/measurements.htm
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 10:45 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Listers-

I posted a few pictures from my first race in my new-to-me 30-1 (hull #7) last 
Wednesday night at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeUlmcm1IX1c5ZHc

You can see the foot of my mainsail is considerably shorter than my boom.  I'm 
wondering if that's "normal" for 30-1s (or other C for that matter).  It 
doesn't really look normal judging by brochure photos and drawings.

A previous owner had also raised the boom at least a foot from its original 
height, as the C itself did on later C 30s.

When I get a new mainsail I'd like to increase its area by both returning the 
boom to its original height, and increasing the length of mainsail's foot.  I'm 
thinking more area equals more power equals more speed.  And I can live with a 
lower boom.

Any words of wisdom to share?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

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Stus-List Australian Cup Wing Keel

2016-05-02 Thread robert via CnC-List

Conner's boat in 1987 was Stars and Stripes.his team designed a keel 
they called a 'proboscis keel'...this from a book I have with only 
one picture of the keel..others called it a 'bulbous keel'
It is the weirdest thing to look at but it worked for Conner and Stars 
and Stripes..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stars_%26_Stripes_87

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
HALIFAX, N.S.

On 2016-05-01 5:18 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
Conner's boat was not Young America (a syndicate out of New York Yacht 
Club), but I believe it was Stars & stripes.  The skmipper for Young 
America was Ed Baird.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988

2016-05-02 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List

There is often confusion between imperial and american gallons, and sometimes 
litres. I used to prepare daily cost analysis reports first thing in the 
morning, and the last thing to do before printing it off and handing it to the 
bosses was what we called the "sanity check" - do the numbers make sense. 

78 imperial gallons of water weighs 780 pounds.  

On the other hand, 78 litres is equivalent to 20.6 U.S. gallons, which is a 
pretty common size. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 

 David via CnC-List  wrote: 
Specifically I have no idea, but to provide some perspective my 1981 40' has 
two 30 gallon water tanks and a 20 gallon holding tank.  

I highly doubt you have a 78 gallon water tank or a 35.5 gallon holding tank on 
a 30'.  That's a lot of tank.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 18:59:16 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank size. Is there more than one? 30MkII 1988
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: paradigmat...@gmail.com

Boats that weren't shipped to the Great Lakes frequently had the holding tank 
plumbed as an extra water tank. Maybe?
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

2016-05-02 Thread Mark McMenamy via CnC-List

It's a Suzuki 9.9.  The previous owner put it on.  It's already a heavy engine 
and its got power tilt and electric start.

With regards to the dock behind the boat, there's also a metal pipe running the 
length of the dock the engine will have to go over to get to the dock.  I could 
wrap a towel or something to protect the engine, but it seems to me that it 
might just be easier to walk the engine across  the transom to the finger pier 
which is lower and without any obstructions.

The engine is heavy and hasn't run well since I bought the boat in December.  
It's still under warranty so I'm going to take it to the shop.  It's a 2013.  
I'm also considering just selling the thing and replacing it with a Yamaha or 
Tohatsu.

Thanks a lot for the advice.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 11:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I tend to agree with Dennis.

The 9.9 Tohatsu on Bell weighs around 80 pounds. The dock is about 18" to 2' 
above the transom. I put a safety line on the motor (in case I dropped it), sat 
down on the edge of the dock, and just pulled the motor up off the mount and 
slid it onto the dock. Not pretty but very doable.

123 pounds sounds pretty heavy, how large is the engine?

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:42 PM
To: CnClist >
Cc: Dennis C. >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

Just put a tag line on the motor.  Have a buddy stand on the main dock and man 
the tag line.  Use the halyard to lift it up to the level of the main dock.  
Buddy pulls it over the main dock and you lower it.
If there's a cleat on the main dock on the far side, wrap the tag line around 
it for better control.

Dennis C.

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi Dennis,

I do back the boat and dock it stern first. However, the dock behind the boat 
is a good 3 feet higher than the transom and I think it'd be difficult to lift 
it that high.  There is a finger pier to starboard that is the same level as 
the boat.  I was thinking of raising the motor with the halyard and move it 
across the back of the boat and lay it down on the pier.  Or I could bring it 
around the port backstay, through the cockpit, and up onto the pier.  I'd much 
rather use just the halyard since it won't require using a boom extension.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 7:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The Admiral and I use a halyard to lift and/return Touche's early 80's vintage 
Evinrude 7.5 from the starboard cockpit locker all the time.  It's pretty easy 
to maneuver it and put it on the transom of the dinghy which is usually tied 
midships.

Should work for the transom.  Once the load is on the halyard, you really don't 
need a lot of effort to swing it around.  The angle from the masthead to the 
transom isn't that great.
Can you put the boat in the slip stern in?  If so, just take the load on the 
halyard and have a friend standing on the dock pull it aft and then put it on 
the pier.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 5:00 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.  
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid 
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72 
hours.  Looking online I came up with a system where I'm planning on lashing a 
4x4 to the boom.

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Stus-List Electronics installation