Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

If you want to get your fanny wet, sail a scow (C or E).  Scow sailors have 
soggy buns.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 10:14 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25
   
But then you’ll get your fanny wet.  Come on, Bill. From: coltrek via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:46 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: coltrek 
Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 If you REALLY want to learn how 
to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a year or two. You will learn so 
much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm raining on your parade!   Regards,  
BillColemanC 39

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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I agree.  I didn't mean to imply I'm against the dinghy; except for 
beginners.After we learned more on the San Juan 24, a responsive keel boat, we 
bought a Thistle to race on Sunday.  It was a blast!  You could always tell a 
Thistle sailor on the lot; wore his knee pads backwards (narrow rail to hike 
out on).RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:21 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
   
Seems to be interest in this topic.
I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.
I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!
Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.
On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)
If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

But then you’ll get your fanny wet.  Come on, Bill.

From: coltrek via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: coltrek 
Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a 
year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
raining on your parade!



Regards, 

BillColeman
C 39


 Original message 
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List"  
Date: 8/29/17 15:12 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 


Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me 

here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:

https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html


I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star 
cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. I'll 
go over it carefully to check for soft spots.

I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit 
long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat.

Thanks,

Lisle



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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I learned to sail in a Columbia 25 MKII.  It was easy because it was forgiving. 
 My sailboard was a lot more difficult because I had to react quickly.  I do 
not think it makes much difference in how you learn IF YOU LEARN.  I have 
sailed boats as small as a Sunfish and as large as a 30 foot Catalina.  I enjoy 
all of them.
Frank 

On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Seems to be interest in this topic.
I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.
I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!
Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.
On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)
If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

We have Espar (diesel) and Dickinson (LPG) aboard Paikea.  Recent work on the 
Espar reduced the number of heat vents to 3: aft stateroom, Head and under the 
chart table.  Too many heat vents pressure stressed the blower previously and 
“coked” the unit.  Really works well (blows hard) at this point and will drive 
you out of the boat with heat.  Most of the professionals I have spoken to feel 
the heaters should be used as hard as you can, as often as you can.  In other 
words, don’t buy more furnace than you need.  
The LPG unit works well as a “take the chill off the boat” and “wow look at the 
fireplace” appliance.  We installed an efficient 12V fan just above the stove 
to drive the heat as far as possible.  
I don’t hear a lot of people “loving” the hydronic systems unless you really 
step up and get a boiler.  

Rick
Pike 37+
Tacoma, WA
> On Aug 29, 2017, at 1:34 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Crazy legs I have a Dickenson heater for sale at mbsc if you'd like to have a 
> look. 
> Message me for info
> higgs...@hotmail.com 
> Dave
> Zeilboot 
> 30-1
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 29, 2017, at 12:03 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
>> For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
>> Can't find the exact reference right now.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List > >
>> To: cnc-list > 
>> Cc: Ken Heaton >
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>> A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
>> need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't 
>> know if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" 
>> in dia at the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at 
>> the different outlets.
>> 
>> I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Ken, 
>> 
>> I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how 
>> your heat is ducted.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Have you looked at your local Walmart?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Dog-Deck-Fill-Key-Nylon/44697222

My local store also offers a Perko metal key and the Sea Dog stainless key
that Fred recommended. You'd be surprised how many boaters have lost the key
when they come into my marina for a pumpout, and I usually send them to the
local Walmart for a replacement.

Be sure to put a key float on the replacement wherever you buy it. It may
save needing to buy another.

I like the adjustable pin wrench that Dennis recommended. It will be very
useful if you need to maintain Barient winches. But it is on the expensive
side.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Liz
Mather via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Liz Mather 
Subject: Stus-List Gas/Water key

Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C
35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement. 

Many Thanks!

Mistral V 


Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List considering C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

thanks a lot for the additional input, really helpful. Found a surveyor so
after I get a tour of the boat on Friday, I'll keep the list posted and
probably schedule the survey.

Sincerely,

Lisle Kingery
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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

At my father's sailing school (in Victoria, BC), we taught literally hundreds 
of people to sail. What kind of boats did we teach on, you ask. We used the 
best boats my father could find for the purpose, a C 27 and 24.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 21:25, Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> For what it's worth, many of the sailing schools that I have heard of start 
> novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's or J24's.
> 
> Neil
> Foxfire C 32
> Rock Hall, MD
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:20:07 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat
>  
> Seems to be interest in this topic.
> 
> I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
> wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.
> 
> I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
> Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in 
> a small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
> effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
> dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!
> 
> Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
> winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
> Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.
> 
> On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in 
> small, unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big 
> stiff sailboats.  :)
> 
> If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, 
> you should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to 
> improve your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Very good points. Windsurfing will substitute nicely for mall boat sailing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> wrote:

For what it's worth, many of the sailing schools that I have heard of start 
novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's or J24's.

Neil
Foxfire C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List 
> on behalf 
of Dennis C. via CnC-List >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:20:07 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

Seems to be interest in this topic.

I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.

I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!

Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.

On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)

If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

For what it's worth, many of the sailing schools that I have heard of start 
novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's or J24's.

Neil
Foxfire C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:20:07 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

Seems to be interest in this topic.

I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.

I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!

Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.

On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)

If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Seems to be interest in this topic.

I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.

I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on
a Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes
in a small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.
Wave effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.
Plus, dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!

Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory
Cup winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in
dinghies.  Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.

On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in
small, unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big
stiff sailboats.  :)

If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing,
you should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to
improve your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and
playing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I'll recant part of my post based on Mark's comments. If you can find a boat 
with RF and self tailers etc. for under  $5K, get the better equipped boat.  
However buying a solid boat like a C instead of a poorer brand, no matter how 
well equipped will likely be a disappointment.  


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Mark G via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/29/17  6:44 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark G  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
considering 1981 C 25 

The only issue I'm familiar with particular to the C 25 Mk2 is the support 
under the mast in the cabin.  While the Mk1 had a substantial beam running 
across the top of the bulkhead to support the mast, which every Mk1 owner has 
banged his head on a hundred times, the Mk2 did not.  I'm told that C 
actually "recalled" the early Mk2's to institute some kind of repair.  I looked 
at several Mk2's before buying my Mk1, and they all had something going on in 
this area.  I'd just pay attention to this area, and point it out to the 
surveyor.  The C 25, both Marks, is a great boat.  Take a look at a couple 
Hunters and Catalinas of the same size and vintage and the difference in build 
quality becomes apparent.  Then take a look at a few C 25s and you can see 
the difference in how they've been maintained.  It makes a difference over 40 
years.  And I'll give you some advice that I ignored: buy the boat that's been 
upgraded with things like a furler, self-tailing winches, etc.  These boats are 
inexpensive now, sub $5k.  But a furler is still $1500 and a pair of ST winches 
still $1200.

Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I'm with Chuck on this.  A couple on the lake bought a Thistle (17ft open 
craft; very responsive and great in light air)  for their first boat and on the 
second time out, they dumped it.  Woman would never get back in that or any 
other boat.We learned in a Venture 21, a very cheap boat, but decent in light 
air and easy on/off the trailer.  Pretty forgiving.Then got a San Juan 24 and 
realized what a difference a good boat makes in boat feedback, docking etc.Note 
the sailing schools use J24s, Colgate 26s and Solings (same size range & 
style).Get the 25, it's a great size to get things figured out with.Then get 
the 30 since it's fantastic!RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:22 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25
   
For what it is worth, As a first boat I owned a 13' FJ dinghy that taught me 
nothing about sailing a 4000lb keelboat.  Both that boat and my Laser made me 
realize that I like to sail and like to swim, just not at the same time.Our 
25mk1 allowed us overnight accommodations for a young family and served as a 
stable and fun performing boat which we owned for 14 years before trading up to 
our current Landfall 35.Chuck Gilchrest Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 29, 2017, at 4:46 PM, coltrek via CnC-List  wrote:



If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a 
year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
raining on your parade!


Regards,
BillColemanC 39

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Re: Stus-List considering a 1981 C 25 - now head privacy

[Mark G via CnC-List]

My 25 Mk1 has folding doors which separate the V-birth from the head, and a 
curtain to separate the head from the main cabin.  I replaced the curtain, 
slides and slider track.  The slides and slider track are RV (as in camper) 
items.  You can find them online at places that supply RV parts.  The buttons, 
including the bottom half which nails into the wood bulkheads, are available in 
craft stores.

Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Mark G via CnC-List]

The only issue I'm familiar with particular to the C 25 Mk2 is the support 
under the mast in the cabin.  While the Mk1 had a substantial beam running 
across the top of the bulkhead to support the mast, which every Mk1 owner has 
banged his head on a hundred times, the Mk2 did not.  I'm told that C 
actually "recalled" the early Mk2's to institute some kind of repair.  I looked 
at several Mk2's before buying my Mk1, and they all had something going on in 
this area.  I'd just pay attention to this area, and point it out to the 
surveyor.  The C 25, both Marks, is a great boat.  Take a look at a couple 
Hunters and Catalinas of the same size and vintage and the difference in build 
quality becomes apparent.  Then take a look at a few C 25s and you can see 
the difference in how they've been maintained.  It makes a difference over 40 
years.  And I'll give you some advice that I ignored: buy the boat that's been 
upgraded with things like a furler, self-tailing winches, etc.  These boats
  are inexpensive now, sub $5k.  But a furler is still $1500 and a pair of ST 
winches still $1200.

Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

In terms of a dinghy, I can only offer-up my experiences - learning the
basics with my dad in a small 12-ft and then racing in the 19-ft lightning
class, as well as lasers.

Like just about any C, the Lightning just 'has it' whether you're
speaking of the way she sails or the way she looks doing it. Classic boat!
(The S pedigree!). And they are pretty stable and also will plane quite
easily. All the go-fast bits and pieces to learn sail-shape with. Strong
class and fleet associations, etc.

With that 25, I'm wondering if you'd be better off looking for one with a
furling jib?

On Aug 29, 2017 2:22 PM, "Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For what it is worth, As a first boat I owned a 13' FJ dinghy that taught
> me nothing about sailing a 4000lb keelboat.  Both that boat and my Laser
> made me realize that I like to sail and like to swim, just not at the same
> time.
> Our 25mk1 allowed us overnight accommodations for a young family and
> served as a stable and fun performing boat which we owned for 14 years
> before trading up to our current Landfall 35.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Padanaram, MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 29, 2017, at 4:46 PM, coltrek via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail
> for a year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if
> I'm raining on your parade!
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> BillColeman
> C 39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
> Date: 8/29/17 15:12 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
> Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25
>
> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
> me
>
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
>
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html
>
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
>
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
> bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
> boat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions (Chad Osmond)

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I have a 30-2 and both my tanks have leaked.


The v-berth was easy as I simply replaced the gray, "RV-like" elbow with a 
BARBED 90 degree elbow, reinforced tubing, a SS clamp, and plumber's tape.

On the starboard tank, the exit hole for the fitting was leaking due to a 
hairline crack in the threading; and the crack had progressed several inches 
down the side and along the bottom of the tank.

I investigated a replacement tank, but Kracor no longer makes this tank.


Now, call me "Rube Goldberg", but here's what I did.

First, I treated the hairline crack with Capn Tolley's, from the outside, as 
the access plate opening was too small.

Then, on the OUTSIDE of the tank [both side and bottom], I applied a two-part 
glue from Tap Plastics [follow their video instructions at their website].

And finally, I installed a new, barbed fitting with tape.

So far, it's holding.

Note: Tap Plastics says their product hasn't been tested as safe for use on 
water tankage used for human consumption.


Good Luck,


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.



From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *Chris Hobson 
> *Subject: *Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
>
>
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Heat

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Daryl, It looks like you're doing it right.  Welcome to the list.  Just
remember not to reply to the digest posts and to trim the message tails.

As for your heater.  I would suggest that you give it a season or two
before you make any changes.  You'll find plenty of things that NEED done
before you start messing with the things that you think need done.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Aug 29, 2017 5:14 PM, "Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi all, first time replying to anything here, no idea if I'm doing this
right or not.
This was our first summer with a 1989 37/40+, it has a Webasto diesel
heater mounted in the locker with the engine controls, installed by the
previous owner, have never tried it, assuming all works but we have no use
for it and will be removing it as soon as I figure out how to tackle it,
but was also installed with a separate fuel tank in the same locker, I
think it was suppose to be 15 gal but it has its own fill and the tank is
also tied into the main fuel fill hose with a shut off valve, I might even
consider leaving that tank there as a reserve but no idea yet, anyway it
appears it can be done on these boats and once I get the beast out of there
I'll be looking to get rid of it if anybody is interested.

Daryl McKelvie
S/V Skelly
1989 C 37/40+
Sarnia Ontario
Canada


On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 8:30 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  37+ heat (Len Mitchell)
>2. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (Michael Brown)
>3. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (bwhitmore)
>4. Re:  37+ heat (svpegasus38)
>5. Re:  37+ heat (Josh Muckley)
>6.  More Pictures (Randy Stafford)
>7. Re:  37+ heat (Frederick G Street)
>8. Re:  C 44 twin adjustable backstays (Dan)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Len Mitchell 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:04:00 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ heat
> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace
> or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the
> best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have
> advantages. What do you guys think?
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Michael Brown 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:19:25 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
> The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part
> of the tank. The top of the
> forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round
> access ports and a screwed
> down access panel on both tanks.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400
> From: Chad Osmond 
>
> I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame
> treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this
> year with no issues.
>
> Chad
>
> On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks
> > repair within the last 4 weeks.
> >
> > If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to
> replace
> > it.
> >
> > I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> >
> > And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.
> >
> > Marek
> >
> >
> > *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> > *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> >
> > Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO
> > left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything
> into
> > my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs
> to
> > be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you
> > typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the
> > fittings fastened to the tank.
> >
> > Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink
> in
> > the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from
> what I
> > can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.
> >
> > Chris Hobson
> > s/v "Going"
> > 1980 C 30 MKI
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: bwhitmore 

Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

For what it is worth, As a first boat I owned a 13' FJ dinghy that taught me 
nothing about sailing a 4000lb keelboat.  Both that boat and my Laser made me 
realize that I like to sail and like to swim, just not at the same time.
Our 25mk1 allowed us overnight accommodations for a young family and served as 
a stable and fun performing boat which we owned for 14 years before trading up 
to our current Landfall 35.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 4:46 PM, coltrek via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for 
> a year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
> raining on your parade!
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> BillColeman
> C 39
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List"  
> Date: 8/29/17 15:12 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
> Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 
> 
> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me
> 
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
> 
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html
> 
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star 
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. 
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
> 
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit 
> long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Lisle
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37+ Heat

[Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List]

Hi all, first time replying to anything here, no idea if I'm doing this
right or not.
This was our first summer with a 1989 37/40+, it has a Webasto diesel
heater mounted in the locker with the engine controls, installed by the
previous owner, have never tried it, assuming all works but we have no use
for it and will be removing it as soon as I figure out how to tackle it,
but was also installed with a separate fuel tank in the same locker, I
think it was suppose to be 15 gal but it has its own fill and the tank is
also tied into the main fuel fill hose with a shut off valve, I might even
consider leaving that tank there as a reserve but no idea yet, anyway it
appears it can be done on these boats and once I get the beast out of there
I'll be looking to get rid of it if anybody is interested.

Daryl McKelvie
S/V Skelly
1989 C 37/40+
Sarnia Ontario
Canada


On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 8:30 AM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  37+ heat (Len Mitchell)
>2. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (Michael Brown)
>3. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (bwhitmore)
>4. Re:  37+ heat (svpegasus38)
>5. Re:  37+ heat (Josh Muckley)
>6.  More Pictures (Randy Stafford)
>7. Re:  37+ heat (Frederick G Street)
>8. Re:  C 44 twin adjustable backstays (Dan)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Len Mitchell 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:04:00 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ heat
> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace
> or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the
> best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have
> advantages. What do you guys think?
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Michael Brown 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:19:25 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
> The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part
> of the tank. The top of the
> forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round
> access ports and a screwed
> down access panel on both tanks.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400
> From: Chad Osmond 
>
> I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame
> treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this
> year with no issues.
>
> Chad
>
> On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks
> > repair within the last 4 weeks.
> >
> > If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to
> replace
> > it.
> >
> > I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> >
> > And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.
> >
> > Marek
> >
> >
> > *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> > *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> >
> > Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO
> > left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything
> into
> > my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs
> to
> > be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you
> > typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the
> > fittings fastened to the tank.
> >
> > Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink
> in
> > the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from
> what I
> > can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.
> >
> > Chris Hobson
> > s/v "Going"
> > 1980 C 30 MKI
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: bwhitmore 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:26:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
> Hi Michael,
>
> I was going to disagree with you, but I thought back to my 1977 C 27
> MKIII, and remember the inside of the tank was smooth and white, rather
> than yellowish PTFE like my 1994 C 37/40+.
>
> So, for your application, I was dead wrong.
>
> I would suspect.a bad fitting rather than a cracked tank.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Bruce.
>
>
>
> Sent from my 

Re: Stus-List considering a 1981 C 25 - now head privacy

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

The reason I thought of (Sailrite) YKK zippers is the abandoned 24 down the
slip had the zippers with snaps.  I sure can snaps only, the receiving end
is already in place.
bd

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> My 35-1 came with a heavy bifold door for V-berth privacy.  Removed it and
> replaced it with a curtain with snaps.  Installed snap studs in the
> headliner on either side of the passageway.  We just simply snap the
> curtain in and snap it out.  Fold it and store it.
>
> You might consider a curtain with snaps.  Put an extra one in the curtain
> on one side to snap the far side into so the passageway is open when
> privacy is not needed.
>
> I decided long ago that snaps were better than Velcro or zippers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:12 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> The head is semi enclosed between the v berth and cabin.  One of my tasks
>> is to find fabric and YKK zippers to provide privacy between the head and
>> cabin/cockpit.
>>
>> Bill Dakin
>> S/V Tapestry
>> 25MKII
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 

Bill Dakin
Tapestryaussies.org
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[coltrek via CnC-List]

If you REALLY want to learn how to sail  , buy a 13 - 14 footer and sail for a 
year or two. You will learn so much quicker on a small boat. Sorry if I'm 
raining on your parade!


Regards,
BillColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List"  
Date: 8/29/17  15:12  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
Subject: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25 

Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me
here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html

I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star 
cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. I'll 
go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit 
long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat.
Thanks,
Lisle
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List considering a 1981 C 25 - now head privacy

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bill,

My 35-1 came with a heavy bifold door for V-berth privacy.  Removed it and
replaced it with a curtain with snaps.  Installed snap studs in the
headliner on either side of the passageway.  We just simply snap the
curtain in and snap it out.  Fold it and store it.

You might consider a curtain with snaps.  Put an extra one in the curtain
on one side to snap the far side into so the passageway is open when
privacy is not needed.

I decided long ago that snaps were better than Velcro or zippers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:12 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> The head is semi enclosed between the v berth and cabin.  One of my tasks
> is to find fabric and YKK zippers to provide privacy between the head and
> cabin/cockpit.
>
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
>
>
> ___
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[David via CnC-List]

Crazy legs I have a Dickenson heater for sale at mbsc if you'd like to have a 
look.
Message me for info
higgs...@hotmail.com
Dave
Zeilboot
30-1

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2017, at 12:03 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> wrote:

For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
Can't find the exact reference right now.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL




From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>
To: cnc-list >
Cc: Ken Heaton >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't know 
if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" in dia at 
the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at the different 
outlets.

I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how your 
heat is ducted.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List considering purchasing a 1981 C 25

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Our 25MKII (1981) bought in February, transported from WI, has been
fantastic.  The decks are good, chain plates dry, and every point I rebed
was dry.  The OMC saildrive will push us over 7kts and surprised me with
how quiet relative to the diesels I've heard.  I bought a spare OMC
Saildrive just in case or when it needs an overhaul, it will be a day
swapping out the motor.  The wineglass stern has a design aesthetic that
will never have an outboard hanging off of it, for as long as we own it.
Source your parts now so when needed, you will be ready.  I will share my
sources when needed.

Our rigger will install a Schaefer roller furler this weekend for all line
controls to run to the cockpit.  If you buy her and need precise
dimensions, you can write to me.

The head is semi enclosed between the v berth and cabin.  One of my tasks
is to find fabric and YKK zippers to provide privacy between the head and
cabin/cockpit.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Isn't it great to be sitting on the low side going upwind with a big grin at 
20-25kts?  And yet it will go in lighter air, just might not make the 
handicap.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Michael Brown 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 2:34 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
   
Must have had great quality control to replicate the same failure ;-)

I have been on a few 30-1, no two the same so far but all great boats.

I was racing last Tuesday, had the rarely used blade up and a full main at 20 - 
25 kts.
A wind line took us to 36 kts, eased the main and jib off to sit at about 60º 
AWA.
Sailed well, balanced helm and not even the rail in the water. When it eased 
back
down to 30 we sheeted in a bit and finished the race.

The scene behind us was not as relaxed.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



From: "Gary Nylander" 

By 1980, they went with separate tanks. Mine is just like Chad?s, complete with 
the leak.

Gary

1980 30-1

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Re: Stus-List considering C 25

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

  Lisle, the main thing to be wary of is falling in love with the boat...which 
you will do...I did, and now I'm on my 4th C(25, 29, 33-II and 37); as are 
many of the good people on this list.!  Do get the survey, and do check out 
the things needing improvement or repairs, but also know that there is a wealth 
of information available here and other places and that boat will dig in and 
drive when she get a breeze...grin...grin...grin

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Sent: Tue, Aug 29, 2017 3:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List considering C 25



thanks, Andy. My friend the internet tells me these are good boats. I looked at 
a Hunter last week and my friend tells me to watch out for those. :)


Thanks, Fred - I think you'll be right, my long term fantasy is to buy a worthy 
cruiser but I need to learn to sail first. I'll be restricted to Seneca Lake 
for the first few years which I think will be a great place to learn. Thanks 
very much for your replies.


Best,


Lisle

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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Must have had great quality control to replicate the same failure ;-)

I have been on a few 30-1, no two the same so far but all great boats.

I was racing last Tuesday, had the rarely used blade up and a full main at 20 - 
25 kts.
A wind line took us to 36 kts, eased the main and jib off to sit at about 60º 
AWA.
Sailed well, balanced helm and not even the rail in the water. When it eased 
back
down to 30 we sheeted in a bit and finished the race.

The scene behind us was not as relaxed.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



From: "Gary Nylander"  
 
By 1980, they went with separate tanks. Mine is just like Chad?s, complete with 
the leak. 
 
Gary 
 
1980 30-1 
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Stus-List considering C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

thanks, Andy. My friend the internet tells me these are good boats. I
looked at a Hunter last week and my friend tells me to watch out for those.
:)

Thanks, Fred - I think you'll be right, my long term fantasy is to buy a
worthy cruiser but I need to learn to sail first. I'll be restricted to
Seneca Lake for the first few years which I think will be a great place to
learn. Thanks very much for your replies.

Best,

Lisle
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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Remember to get a survey.  The money you spend will more than make up for
any problems that a surveyor may find.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 12:12 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
> me
>
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
>
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html
> 
>
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
>
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
> bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
> boat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> dHmAvSMqwI03HEsj5WZBJJDyx_mcXFk5q4Sa9FXdjks=cSUacWprVjJqGwfNoHgI_
> yB2m47BB7ca33LKQf2p0KE=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Lisle — my first sailboat was a C the first time I stood at the helm, 
it felt like I was driving a battleship.  But the 30mkI is one of the stiffest 
and most forgiving boats C ever built, and for me it made learning easy, fun, 
and most of all safe.  So don’t worry about a somewhat larger boat; after a few 
years in a 25, you’ll most likely want a bigger boat anyway…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 2:12 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with me
> 
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
> 
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html 
> 
> 
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star 
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good. 
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
> 
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a bit 
> long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power boat.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Lisle

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I think you'll find the 25 is that perfect combination of responsive and
forgiving that makes it an ideal boat to learn on. It's also (as I recall)
a very stoutly-built boat so it will stand the abuse it will inevitably get.
If you're looking at a 25, some friend must be giving you good advice.
Best of luck, and don't hesitate to keep asking questions.
Cheers
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 3:12 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
> me
>
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
>
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html
>
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
>
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
> bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
> boat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
me

here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:

https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html

I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.

I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
boat.

Thanks,

Lisle
___

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Re: Stus-List considering purchasing a 1981 C 25

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Do you have a link to an ad?

We looked at 25s and 30s and settled on a 27.  In retrospect, for us a 30
would probably have been the better choice. If the 25 has an inboard ...
which is I believe with that age of boat a OMC saildrive, I'd look to the
27 instead.  If it's an outboard then no issues on that front, as long as
an outboard will perform adequately in the area you are sailing in and the
type of sailing you plan to do.

I'm not aware of any specific issues with the 25 other than the common one
you'll find on many boats of that era - soggy deck core.

Have you looked at the 27 Mk5? It was C's replacement for the 25.  Larger
than the 25 and smaller than the 27 Mk I through IV. I think you'll pretty
much find diesel power in them.

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:50 AM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm considering purchasing a 1981 C 25, looking at it this Friday. Was
> curious if anyone has recommendations about particular things to watch out
> for on this year/make of C?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Man up and drill! What is the worst that could happen?
(hey...where did all that water come from)


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 1:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List 37+ heat

Alera came to us from Lake Ontario with no heat.  We limit our cruising to the 
summer months, at least so far.  A small electric ceramic heater when at the 
dock, works great.  We also keep a lpropane Buddy on board, though we haven't 
used it yet.

That said, I have wanted to do an hydronic heating system.  I have the layout 
in my head and even some notes.  Every year at the boat show I look again at 
the available equipments...But the number of boat bucks for the labor intensive 
install has me waiting for a significant liquidity event to pull the trigger.  
I am just not that comfortable wity drilling holes in the fuel tank and wiring 
the exchanges throughout the boat.

Hydronic is expensive, but has flexibility, no need to run hoses larger tham 
3/4" heater hoses and has the added pay off of giving hot water when at anchor. 
 Kinda hard to beat if money is no object.

Tom B


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 09:51 AM 8/29/2017, you wrote:
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 16:50:33 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
Message-ID:
 
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

We had a boat with a wood stove when I was a kid. It beat nothing, but didn?t 
really warm the boat that much if you were not near it.
Espar type heaters blow heat all over the boat.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

I don't see how you could go with anything but forced air or radiant with 
registers. A bulkhead mounted unit on a 30 or slightly bigger with open quarter 
berths is one thing, but it won't get heat in any kind of meaningful way to the 
aft cabin on the 37+, even with fans blowing the heat around. Perhaps the 
V-berth would be ok if you left the door and 'window' open. With our aft cabin 
on our petite 30-2 the forced air is only thing that keeps it warm even with 
fans. At anchor when we don't use the forced air as much (because of the 
battery drain of older unit), single source heating is uneven and uncomfortable.

My opinion.

KD

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:03 AM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>>
 wrote:
For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
Can't find the exact reference right now.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>
To: cnc-list >
Cc: Ken Heaton >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't know 
if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" in dia at 
the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at the different 
outlets.

I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote:

Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how your 
heat is ducted.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37+ heat

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Alera came to us from Lake Ontario with no heat.  We limit our 
cruising to the summer months, at least so far.  A small electric 
ceramic heater when at the dock, works great.  We also keep a 
lpropane Buddy on board, though we haven't used it yet.


That said, I have wanted to do an hydronic heating system.  I have 
the layout in my head and even some notes.  Every year at the boat 
show I look again at the available equipments...But the number of 
boat bucks for the labor intensive install has me waiting for a 
significant liquidity event to pull the trigger.  I am just not that 
comfortable wity drilling holes in the fuel tank and wiring the 
exchanges throughout the boat.


Hydronic is expensive, but has flexibility, no need to run hoses 
larger tham 3/4" heater hoses and has the added pay off of giving hot 
water when at anchor.  Kinda hard to beat if money is no object.


Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 09:51 AM 8/29/2017, you wrote:


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 16:50:33 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

We had a boat with a wood stove when I was a kid. It beat nothing, 
but didn?t really warm the boat that much if you were not near it.

Espar type heaters blow heat all over the boat.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

I don't see how you could go with anything but forced air or radiant 
with registers. A bulkhead mounted unit on a 30 or slightly bigger 
with open quarter berths is one thing, but it won't get heat in any 
kind of meaningful way to the aft cabin on the 37+, even with fans 
blowing the heat around. Perhaps the V-berth would be ok if you left 
the door and 'window' open. With our aft cabin on our petite 30-2 
the forced air is only thing that keeps it warm even with fans. At 
anchor when we don't use the forced air as much (because of the 
battery drain of older unit), single source heating is uneven and 
uncomfortable.


My opinion.

KD

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:03 AM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> wrote:
For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall 
hung.  Can't find the exact reference right now.

Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>

To: cnc-list >
Cc: Ken Heaton >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the 
heater ducts need to be due to the smaller temperature differential 
for A/C so I don't know if this will help you much.  The output for 
my Espar is only about 3" in dia at the heater and quickly steps 
down in size as it branches off at the different outlets.


I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to 
see how your heat is ducted.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

We had a boat with a wood stove when I was a kid. It beat nothing, but didn’t 
really warm the boat that much if you were not near it.
Espar type heaters blow heat all over the boat.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

I don't see how you could go with anything but forced air or radiant with 
registers. A bulkhead mounted unit on a 30 or slightly bigger with open quarter 
berths is one thing, but it won't get heat in any kind of meaningful way to the 
aft cabin on the 37+, even with fans blowing the heat around. Perhaps the 
V-berth would be ok if you left the door and 'window' open. With our aft cabin 
on our petite 30-2 the forced air is only thing that keeps it warm even with 
fans. At anchor when we don't use the forced air as much (because of the 
battery drain of older unit), single source heating is uneven and uncomfortable.

My opinion.

KD

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:03 AM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> wrote:
For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
Can't find the exact reference right now.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>
To: cnc-list >
Cc: Ken Heaton >
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't know 
if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" in dia at 
the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at the different 
outlets.

I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how your 
heat is ducted.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List considering purchasing a 1981 C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm considering purchasing a 1981 C 25, looking at it this Friday. Was
curious if anyone has recommendations about particular things to watch out
for on this year/make of C?

Thank you!

Lisle
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I don't see how you could go with anything but forced air or radiant with
registers. A bulkhead mounted unit on a 30 or slightly bigger with open
quarter berths is one thing, but it won't get heat in any kind of
meaningful way to the aft cabin on the 37+, even with fans blowing the heat
around. Perhaps the V-berth would be ok if you left the door and 'window'
open. With our aft cabin on our petite 30-2 the forced air is only thing
that keeps it warm even with fans. At anchor when we don't use the forced
air as much (because of the battery drain of older unit), single source
heating is uneven and uncomfortable.

My opinion.

KD

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:03 AM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.
> Can't find the exact reference right now.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater
> ducts need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I
> don't know if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only
> about 3" in dia at the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches
> off at the different outlets.
>
> I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how
> your heat is ducted.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
Can't find the exact reference right now.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list  
Cc: Ken Heaton 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat
   
Hi Josh,
A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't know 
if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" in dia at 
the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at the different 
outlets.
I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.
Ken H.
On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Ken, 
I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how your 
heat is ducted.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Liz Mather via CnC-List]

Many thanks...just sad to lose it too!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:55 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> While the one piece deck keys are OK and cheap, I like the (more expensive) 
> adjustable deck keys.
> 
> http://www.go2marine.com/product/387643F/sea-dog-adjustable-deck-plate-key-bronze.html
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 8:09 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C 
>> 35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement.
>> 
>> Many Thanks!
>> 
>> Mistral V
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Liz Mather via CnC-List]

Many thanks!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Liz — try one of these:
> 
> https://jet.com/product/detail/bc4b2eba6ced4d4fbc365fda17357532?jcmp=pla:ggl:NJ_dur_Gen_Sporting_Goods_a3:Sporting_Goods_Boating_Boat_Parts_Accessories_a3:na:PLA_783891034_42653273258_pla-302540231690:na:na:na:2=PLA15=kenshoo_int=783891034_retargeting=true=2ddf3217-8395-40df-9b4e-3412f16dd79b
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 29, 2017, at 8:09 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C 
>> 35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement. 
>> 
>> Many Thanks!
>> 
>> Mistral V
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

While the one piece deck keys are OK and cheap, I like the (more expensive)
adjustable deck keys.

http://www.go2marine.com/product/387643F/sea-dog-adjustable-deck-plate-key-bronze.html

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 8:09 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C
> 35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement.
>
> Many Thanks!
>
> Mistral V
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Google 'spanner wrench'

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Or (in the meantime) a pair of long-nose pliers
>
> Marek
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Recommended Upholsterer for C Mark1?

[John and Sue Fletcher via CnC-List]

One of the first things we changed out on Peregrine (1976 33’) when we bought 
her in 2005 were the cushions.  We bought her with the original olefin plaid 
still in place. 
We had Brian McMahon in ?Guelph  519-935-2406 make them.   He used to be in the 
Niagara area as he outfitted all the Saga Yachts.
His measurements were PERFECT.   And he had an excellent turnaround time. 
We paid $3400 to have all the cushions done in blue ultrasuede (back then), the 
little square backs to the seats that were original to the boat style were 
switched out to full backs, the rattley wooden “hooks” that held the seat backs 
in place were replaced
with heavy velcro attachements, the foam in the V-berth cushion was made 
thicker, I would try to go with an even nicer memory foam now if I were to 
replace them, but they are still in too good of shape to do that yet. They are 
still in beautiful condition, and we use our boat a lot.  Worth every penny.  
I dont know if he is still in the business, but it is worth a call.  

Sue & John Fletcher



From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommended Upholsterer for C Mark1?

If you’re replacing settee cushions, make sure whoever you get takes actual 
measurements.  I had an upholsterer make new cushions for my boat, and he used 
the old cushions as templates.  When the new cushions were installed, I 
discovered that they (and the old cushions) were undersized.

From: TL ROSS via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: TL ROSS 
Subject: Stus-List Recommended Upholsterer for C Mark1?



Hi there - 

Can anyone give me a Recommended Upholsterer for C Mk 1 in the Kingston - 
Toronto - Niagara region? 


Thanks! 
Tracy Ross
C Mk 1
Blue Tango 









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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater
ducts need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I
don't know if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only
about 3" in dia at the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches
off at the different outlets.

I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

> Ken,
>
> I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how
> your heat is ducted.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Aug 29, 2017 8:38 AM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Our 37+ has an Espar Diesel fired forced air furnace, well hidden in the
>> lazarette, accessed through the large hatch at the head of the aft berth.
>> This is a forced air unit with outlets in the aft stateroom, the head (in
>> the shower stall), in the main cabin, and in the forward stateroom.  We
>> have yet had to do any maintenance to it in 7 years, it just works.  These
>> are quite common in Transport Trucks in cold climates to keep the sleepers
>> comfortable so they are well proven.
>>
>> I've always liked the idea of a Dickinson propane fireplace but I'm not
>> sure there is a good place to mount one in a 37+ without giving up seating
>> room somewhere.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 29 August 2017 at 09:11, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It depends on what sort of heat you’re looking for; if you are
>>> constantly in cool, wet conditions and would like to have dry heat
>>> throughout the boat, I’d suggest a diesel forced-air system like the Espar
>>> or Webasto.  But these can be expensive to install and maintain.
>>>
>>> If you would just like to take the chill out of the cabin in the
>>> morning, or like a little ambience in the evening, I would highly recommend
>>> the Dickinson propane fireplace.  I’ve had one both on my previous boat
>>> (1981 30mkI) and my current Landfall 38.  These are relatively simple and
>>> inexpensive to install; there’s really no maintenance; and the larger
>>> version can throw a lot of heat into the cabin, while using little propane.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>
>>> On Aug 28, 2017, at 9:04 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane
>>> fireplace or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking
>>> for the best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both
>>> have advantages. What do you guys think?
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> Crazy Legs
>>> 1989 37+
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I doubt it. I have had an exhaust elbow made of black pipe on my 2QM15 for over 
20 years. When the first one rusted out, I had a new one made just like it. 
Engine runs great.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 8:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

 

I was wondering if there could be a negative impact to use a Ss elbow that may 
not have the same internal dimension and thus affecting the flow and 
performance of the engine. But I may be overthinking this...

 

Other thoughts out there or experiences to share on this matter ?

 

 

Thanks

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 28 août 2017 à 20:34, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 > a écrit :

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version, and 
not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but believe it 
had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an internal issue

 

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

Hi all,

 

I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.

 

 

Thank you very much.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

By 1980, they went with separate tanks. Mine is just like Chad’s, complete with 
the leak.

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

 

The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part of 
the tank. The top of the
forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round access 
ports and a screwed
down access panel on both tanks.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400 
From: Chad Osmond  > 

I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame 
treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this 
year with no issues. 

Chad 

On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote: 

> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks 
> repair within the last 4 weeks. 
> 
> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace 
> it. 
> 
> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> 
> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard. 
> 
> Marek 
> 
> 
> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List   > 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07 
> 
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO 
> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into 
> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to 
> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you 
> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the 
> fittings fastened to the tank. 
> 
> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in 
> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I 
> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull. 
> 
> Chris Hobson 
> s/v "Going" 
> 1980 C 30 MKI 

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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Or (in the meantime) a pair of long-nose pliers

Marek
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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

A better (cheaper…) link:

http://www.go2marine.com/product/27139F/sea-dog-universal-deck-fill-key-stainless.html

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 8:16 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Liz — try one of these:
> 
> https://jet.com/product/detail/bc4b2eba6ced4d4fbc365fda17357532?jcmp=pla:ggl:NJ_dur_Gen_Sporting_Goods_a3:Sporting_Goods_Boating_Boat_Parts_Accessories_a3:na:PLA_783891034_42653273258_pla-302540231690:na:na:na:2=PLA15=kenshoo_int=783891034_retargeting=true=2ddf3217-8395-40df-9b4e-3412f16dd79b
>  
> 
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 29, 2017, at 8:09 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C 
>> 35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement. 
>> 
>> Many Thanks!
>> 
>> Mistral V
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Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Liz — try one of these:

https://jet.com/product/detail/bc4b2eba6ced4d4fbc365fda17357532?jcmp=pla:ggl:NJ_dur_Gen_Sporting_Goods_a3:Sporting_Goods_Boating_Boat_Parts_Accessories_a3:na:PLA_783891034_42653273258_pla-302540231690:na:na:na:2=PLA15=kenshoo_int=783891034_retargeting=true=2ddf3217-8395-40df-9b4e-3412f16dd79b

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 29, 2017, at 8:09 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C 
> 35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement. 
> 
> Many Thanks!
> 
> Mistral V
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Stus-List Gas/Water key

[Liz Mather via CnC-List]

Hello everyoneI have lost my original key for water and gas for my C 
35-1ideas of where I might find a replacement. 

Many Thanks!

Mistral V 


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how
your heat is ducted.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 29, 2017 8:38 AM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Our 37+ has an Espar Diesel fired forced air furnace, well hidden in the
> lazarette, accessed through the large hatch at the head of the aft berth.
> This is a forced air unit with outlets in the aft stateroom, the head (in
> the shower stall), in the main cabin, and in the forward stateroom.  We
> have yet had to do any maintenance to it in 7 years, it just works.  These
> are quite common in Transport Trucks in cold climates to keep the sleepers
> comfortable so they are well proven.
>
> I've always liked the idea of a Dickinson propane fireplace but I'm not
> sure there is a good place to mount one in a 37+ without giving up seating
> room somewhere.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On 29 August 2017 at 09:11, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It depends on what sort of heat you’re looking for; if you are constantly
>> in cool, wet conditions and would like to have dry heat throughout the
>> boat, I’d suggest a diesel forced-air system like the Espar or Webasto.
>> But these can be expensive to install and maintain.
>>
>> If you would just like to take the chill out of the cabin in the morning,
>> or like a little ambience in the evening, I would highly recommend the
>> Dickinson propane fireplace.  I’ve had one both on my previous boat (1981
>> 30mkI) and my current Landfall 38.  These are relatively simple and
>> inexpensive to install; there’s really no maintenance; and the larger
>> version can throw a lot of heat into the cabin, while using little propane.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2017, at 9:04 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane
>> fireplace or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking
>> for the best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both
>> have advantages. What do you guys think?
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our 37+ has an Espar Diesel fired forced air furnace, well hidden in the
lazarette, accessed through the large hatch at the head of the aft berth.
This is a forced air unit with outlets in the aft stateroom, the head (in
the shower stall), in the main cabin, and in the forward stateroom.  We
have yet had to do any maintenance to it in 7 years, it just works.  These
are quite common in Transport Trucks in cold climates to keep the sleepers
comfortable so they are well proven.

I've always liked the idea of a Dickinson propane fireplace but I'm not
sure there is a good place to mount one in a 37+ without giving up seating
room somewhere.

Ken H.



On 29 August 2017 at 09:11, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It depends on what sort of heat you’re looking for; if you are constantly
> in cool, wet conditions and would like to have dry heat throughout the
> boat, I’d suggest a diesel forced-air system like the Espar or Webasto.
> But these can be expensive to install and maintain.
>
> If you would just like to take the chill out of the cabin in the morning,
> or like a little ambience in the evening, I would highly recommend the
> Dickinson propane fireplace.  I’ve had one both on my previous boat (1981
> 30mkI) and my current Landfall 38.  These are relatively simple and
> inexpensive to install; there’s really no maintenance; and the larger
> version can throw a lot of heat into the cabin, while using little propane.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 28, 2017, at 9:04 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace
> or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the
> best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have
> advantages. What do you guys think?
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Dan via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone, I certainly can't complian about having the option to make
adjustments based on the conditions, I will just need to get used to it. -
I checked my babystay this morning and it has very little tension on it. I
think I'll run it up the track close to the mast to help clear it from the
Genny. If it catches when we tack I'll temporarily disconnect it.

Thanks again!!

Dan



On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 5:18 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That’s quite a word of caution.
>
> The other thing you don’t want to do is tack with the babystay on.  It
> won’t bring the mast down, but it sure does cause problems.
>
> *From:* Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 28, 2017 4:05 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays
>
>
> Dan,  in the 10 years I've sailed my 44 I have rarely found I need to use
> the running  back stays.  In those few time I needed them the wind was
> blowing hard and I had a lot of the back stay on to bend the mast to shape
> the main and straighten the forestay.  At the same time we were sailing
> into good size waves that caused the mast to pump forward every time we
> bore into one.  Remember you will only use one running back at a time.  You
> will have to switch sides each time to tack.  You can further stabilize the
> mast by using the baby stay,   A word of caution,  if you have a lot of
> back stay on and a lot of running back on and baby stay on after you have
> dropped the sails be sure to ease the running back, as suddenly releasing
> it can bring the mast down.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
> On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the
>> twin adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for
>> doing this but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these
>> extra backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail
>> or adding some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast.
>> There is an inner forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the
>> mast and is not meant to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I
>> only plan to cruise this on this boat for now and I will be reefing from
>> time to time which could create more force lower on the mast. How important
>> are these adjustable backstays or should I just clip them off to the side
>> and clear them from my everyday rig?
>>
>> Thanks guys,
>>
>> Dan
>> 1986 C
>> Halifax, NS
>>
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>>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

It depends on what sort of heat you’re looking for; if you are constantly in 
cool, wet conditions and would like to have dry heat throughout the boat, I’d 
suggest a diesel forced-air system like the Espar or Webasto.  But these can be 
expensive to install and maintain.

If you would just like to take the chill out of the cabin in the morning, or 
like a little ambience in the evening, I would highly recommend the Dickinson 
propane fireplace.  I’ve had one both on my previous boat (1981 30mkI) and my 
current Landfall 38.  These are relatively simple and inexpensive to install; 
there’s really no maintenance; and the larger version can throw a lot of heat 
into the cabin, while using little propane.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 28, 2017, at 9:04 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace or 
> a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the best fit 
> for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have advantages. 
> What do you guys think? 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs 
> 1989 37+
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