Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I have an Evadry that runs all year long. It's over a year old and still going 
strong. I find that in the cold weather the cooling plate freezes up so I use a 
timer to let the ice melt then run again. It works well, I take about a liter 
of water out most rainy winter weeks

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> On Sep 27, 2017, at 6:10 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did quite a bit of research on dehumidifiers after buying my boat.  The 
> surveyor said I needed a dehumidifier with a heating coil.  My research led 
> me to believe that desiccant dehumidifiers were best.  I ended up going with 
> this one: http://a.co/bqzR9jp  It's not too big and sits on the galley 
> counter and drains into the galley sink.  It works well and I'm really happy. 
> I also run a small heater and fan. 
> 
> Recently, I also bought a temp and humidity logger gadget for tracking such 
> data when I'm not at the boat. (I'm a sucker for gadgets...)  When I'm 
> cruising the same gadget will go in the ice box to tell me the temp there. 
> http://a.co/8Cyk0BA
> 
> Cheers,  
> Jeremy 
> 
>  C 34-1 #041 
>   Vancouver BC
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 12:23:17 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers
> Matthew
> 
>  
> 
> I have an Eva Dry mini dehumidifier on Persistence which is on all season 
> long.  It is extremely small and lightweight and does not use a dehumidifier. 
>  I leave on the counter in the galley when at dock and simply put it in the 
> sink while sailing.  It is rated at 1 cup water removal per day and seems to 
> work reasonably well.  Once upon a time we used to lug a full sized home 
> dehumidifier on and off our previous boat every time we went sailing.  That 
> was not fun.  The Eva Dry was a nice compromise.
> 
>  
> 
> Link here at the store where I bought it:
> 
> https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9793
> 
>  
> 
> Hope this is of some interest and use
> 
>  
> 
> Mike
> 
> Persistence
> 
> Halifax, NS
> 
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Jonathon,
Replaced the cabin sole on a 35 III three years ago. It took three sheets. I
started with the big piece in front of the settee first, then worked the
other pieces from it. Rough cut the shape with skill saw or table saw and
finished with a router for a clean edge. try to get the seam on the teak to
holly joint. Finish with Minwax polyurethane satin, three coats on bottom
and edges and six coats on top to get nice smooth finish with no grain. Use
220 between the last three coats. I've used Minwax on three boats now, and
I'm very pleased with the results. Just like a hardwood floor it wears like
iron. I recoat after 3/5 years (depends on usage) with maybe two coats to
freshen it up. Send me your email and I'll send some pictures of the project
if that would help.

Doug Allardyce
C 35 III
"BULLET"
~_/)~~~_/)~


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII


I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide.

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I
recently asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job
and allow the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3
pieces are needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to
new veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how
many coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration
into the plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List removing portlight sealant :: Update

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Update -- I was able to remove most of the Sudbury Sealant using a razor
blade with a scraper handle and a small paint scraper.  Then I used Goof
Off for what remained and it cleaned up really nice.

I'd email support at Sudbury and they got back to me after I'd already
finished the job.  The recommended Toluene or Xylene (the main ingredient
in goof off).

Hope this helps others with similar tasks.

Cheers,

 Jeremy
 C 34-1 #041
  Vancouver BC



-- Forwarded message --
From: Jeremy Ralph 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 19:49:14 -0700
Subject: Stus-List removing portlight sealant
Hi All,

I'm replacing portlights with VHB taped acrylic. The PO sealed with
Sudbury Elastomeric Sealant (silicon + polyurethane formulation) and screws
through the acrylic, which  I've taken off using a multi-tool scraper.  The
sealant remains a mess -- the heat/friction from the tool seemed to soften
and smear the black sealant.

I've been trying to source some marine debond or adhesive remover that will
play nice with fiberglass.  I did find some Xylene based Auto General
Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (PF600) which looks promising but has a "Warning:
... not recommended for fiberglass..."

Any tips for removing the old sealant?

Thanks,

  Jeremy
  C 34-1 #041
  Vancouver BC
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

I did quite a bit of research on dehumidifiers after buying my boat.  The
surveyor said I needed a dehumidifier with a heating coil.  My research led
me to believe that desiccant dehumidifiers were best.  I ended up going
with this one: http://a.co/bqzR9jp  It's not too big and sits on the galley
counter and drains into the galley sink.  It works well and I'm really
happy. I also run a small heater and fan.

Recently, I also bought a temp and humidity logger gadget for tracking such
data when I'm not at the boat. (I'm a sucker for gadgets...)  When I'm
cruising the same gadget will go in the ice box to tell me the temp there.
http://a.co/8Cyk0BA

Cheers,
Jeremy

 C 34-1 #041
  Vancouver BC


-- Forwarded message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 12:23:17 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii - now dehumidifiers

Matthew



I have an Eva Dry mini dehumidifier on Persistence which is on all season
long.  It is extremely small and lightweight and does not use a dehumidifier.
I leave on the counter in the galley when at dock and simply put it in the
sink while sailing.  It is rated at 1 cup water removal per day and seems
to work reasonably well.  Once upon a time we used to lug a full sized home
dehumidifier on and off our previous boat every time we went sailing.  That
was not fun.  The Eva Dry was a nice compromise.



Link here at the store where I bought it:

https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9793



Hope this is of some interest and use



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C Fleet Flag

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Stu has the smaller ones. I won two battle flags at one of the last owners 
regattas in Toronto . The manufacturer had them . Unfortunately they have 
closed up 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Sep 27, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Catherine & Michael Egberts via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> We recently purchased a 1980's C this summer and want to fly a C Fleet 
> Flag (other fleets at our club have a fleet flag and we think it looks 
> great). 
> 
> I have done some quick searching on Google and was not able to find a flag. 
> Does anyone know if these flags are still being sold, and if so, how to get 
> in contact with someone who might sell them?
> 
> Ideally, we want to have a larger size flag that we could fly off the spin 
> halyard, but a smaller one for the spreader would be ok, too. 
> 
> Thank you for your consideration! 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Michael Egberts 
> theegbertsfam...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything.
Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer.
I also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand
planner for final tweaking of the cuts.

My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an
issue. When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line
everything up.

One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before
applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in
completely, then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The
207 is a clear hardener that won't mess up the top finish.  I did about 3-4
coats of each. A foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the
varnish. I tried the cheapo chip brushes but continuously got stray
bristles everywhere.

The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely
between coats.
The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit
between each.

Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where
there isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything
from getting into it.

It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it.
Our old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it
was like it was a new boat.

Kevin Paxton
82' 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 7:05 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jonathan,
>
> I don’t have much to add to what Mike has said but his is pretty good
> advice. I’ve replaced the cabin sole on “Ronin” twice. You should need two
> 4’x8’ pieces of teak and holly plywood. I suspect that it will be 3/4” just
> like our 37’. As Mike said, get your wallet out…
>
> I used a router for the final edging to size. Like Mike, I used a
> “Skillsaw” for the long straight edges and a Bosch jig-saw for smaller cuts
> into corners. I kept the dimensions at least 1/4” larger than the original
> flooring layout.
>
> I used the old flooring as a template and router guide, with attendant
> problems
> 
> to produce the final product. West System epoxy
>  
> for
> sides and backs. The first set that I built lasted about 12-14 years but
> moisture will infiltrate over time, especially if the holes for screwing
> the flooring in are dry. I used gloss Awlwood for surfacing, finished off
> with a standard satin finish varnish. The first time I did this job I
> finished with a gloss finish. I decided over time that I preferred satin.
>
> One thing to keep in mind: The original teak and holly that C used in my
> 1982 model was NOT the same as what is currently being sold. The new teak
> and holly plywood has wider parallel widths.
>
> One thing is for sure, when you are done it will look tremendous!
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Jonathan
>
> I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016.  The Frers 33 is not
> the same boat as the C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job
> are similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions.
>
> First be prepared for sticker shock.  I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of
> 3/4 inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD.
>
> 1a) Lining up.  I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home.
> When I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly
> lines with those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it
> would line up the same as the old sole.  It did.  I think the first step
> will be to ensure your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up.
>
> 1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or
> paneling or something similar that is 1/4 inch thick.  When I bought my
> sheet of teak and Holly it came with something like this to protect the
> surface during transport.  Once you have this lay out the pieces of old
> sole on top and trace them out.  You can then turn it over to trace out the
> remaining pieces on the back.  Is kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will
> give you a pretty clear picture how many pieces of sole material are
> needed.  If you use a couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 sheets you could also cut
> out the traced pieces and use them to test fit in your boat as I did before
> cutting the expensive teak and holly.  One thing I encountered was that my
> jigsaw fitting had to be amended a bit when I laid the old sole pieces atop
> the new sole to account for the lining up of holly strips.
>
> 2) Tools.  I am certain that others have better suggestions for tool but I
> used a circular saw for my straight cuts 

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had a season where my rings got stuck.  Compression measured 155, 165,
425.  The crankcase was so heavily pressurized that the dipstick blew out.
Ultimately I was able to "unstick" the rings by putting penetrating oil (PB
blaster) in the cylinders and hand rolling the engine daily for a week.
After reassembling it took about 30 minutes of farting around with it but
it finally caught and roared to life.  I retested the compression and they
were all above 400 (I can find the actual numbers if it matters).  I didn't
have a lot of experience with the engine prior but since then I have had
elevated crankcase pressure.  The breather would let oil into the air
filter, the dipstick would still work its way out unless restrainted, and
the HP fuel pump leaks oil where it attaches to the gear case.  One of my
first solutions was to put in a drop out tank off the breather.   You can
see it in my video here:
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

This eliminated my oil leak out of the breather AND allowed me to monitor
the amount of blow by.  The cool thing is that the amount of accumulated
oil has decreased dramatically over the last 3 years.

The second solution was to replace my dipstick.  The old gasket on the
dipstick had taken a set and no longer sealed tightly enough.

Third will be to re-seat my hp pump.  When I do it I'll pull the gear case
cover and clean it out.  I also have new shims to check/set the timing.
This is an off season project.

It has been about 3 years since the rings stuck and as it stands, the
engine starts with only a momentary push of the start pushbutton and runs
smooth.  It starts easily even when in the dead of winter.

To check the compression hoyt tractor sells a compression checker for ~$100.
I could let you borrow it if you like for the cost of shipping...both ways.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 5:33 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Don,

Just went through all of this same BS with a Yanmar 3GM30F that we
installed in 1986. After 8,793 hours it was simply worn out and not worth
the costs to rebuild an old motor. So, I bought a new Yanmar 3YM30AGE and
we will install it next week. Hopefully the new Yanmar will give me (or the
next owner) the same service that the old 3GM30F has done since Feb of 1986.

I have no knowledge re. the Beta engines since the now 3 engines that we
have used in our 1974 C 39 TM were the original Volvo MD2  from 1974 thru
1985 (it sucked), the Yanmar 3GM30F from 1986 until 9/16/17 and now the
Yanmar 3YM30AGE

Good luck and just buy a new motor that will work for your boating needs.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
C 39 TM
Savannah, GA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 5:33 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Jonathan,

I don’t have much to add to what Mike has said but his is pretty good advice. 
I’ve replaced the cabin sole on “Ronin” twice. You should need two 4’x8’ pieces 
of teak and holly plywood. I suspect that it will be 3/4” just like our 37’. As 
Mike said, get your wallet out…

I used a router for the final edging to size. Like Mike, I used a “Skillsaw” 
for the long straight edges and a Bosch jig-saw for smaller cuts into corners. 
I kept the dimensions at least 1/4” larger than the original flooring layout.

I used the old flooring as a template and router guide, with attendant problems 
  
to produce the final product. West System epoxy 
 
for sides and backs. The first set that I built lasted about 12-14 years but 
moisture will infiltrate over time, especially if the holes for screwing the 
flooring in are dry. I used gloss Awlwood for surfacing, finished off with a 
standard satin finish varnish. The first time I did this job I finished with a 
gloss finish. I decided over time that I preferred satin.

One thing to keep in mind: The original teak and holly that C used in my 1982 
model was NOT the same as what is currently being sold. The new teak and holly 
plywood has wider parallel widths.

One thing is for sure, when you are done it will look tremendous!

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Jonathan
> 
> I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016.  The Frers 33 is not the 
> same boat as the C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job are 
> similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions.
> 
> First be prepared for sticker shock.  I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of 3/4 
> inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD.  
> 
> 1a) Lining up.  I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home.  
> When I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly 
> lines with those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it 
> would line up the same as the old sole.  It did.  I think the first step will 
> be to ensure your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up.
> 
> 1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or paneling 
> or something similar that is 1/4 inch thick.  When I bought my sheet of teak 
> and Holly it came with something like this to protect the surface during 
> transport.  Once you have this lay out the pieces of old sole on top and 
> trace them out.  You can then turn it over to trace out the remaining pieces 
> on the back.  Is kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will give you a pretty 
> clear picture how many pieces of sole material are needed.  If you use a 
> couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 sheets you could also cut out the traced pieces and 
> use them to test fit in your boat as I did before cutting the expensive teak 
> and holly.  One thing I encountered was that my jigsaw fitting had to be 
> amended a bit when I laid the old sole pieces atop the new sole to account 
> for the lining up of holly strips.
> 
> 2) Tools.  I am certain that others have better suggestions for tool but I 
> used a circular saw for my straight cuts and a jigsaw for the curved cuts 
> (there were not many curves).  On the tapered edges along the underside I 
> used a angle grinder with a sanding pad.  Also a Random Orbital sander to 
> smooth the edges of my cuts. I put masking tape over the lines to be cut 
> before using the saw to reduce splintering.
> 
> 3) Epoxy.  Yes the underside but more importantly the edges.  Almost every 
> case I have heard of soles delaminating and the finish lifting starts with 
> water intrusion from the edges.  Yes the first coat should be thinned (West 
> has advice about how to thin for first coat on wood).  At least three coats 
> IMO.  
> 
> 4) For the exposed cosmetic surface I applied three coats of West 105/206 
> followed by three coats (or four?) of Epifanes varnish.  I chose the Satin 
> finish and in a test piece it looked far better than the gloss and hides many 
> small imperfections.  I used a brush for varnish and roll/tip with foam 
> roller for epoxy..  Interestingly this year I learned that diesel fuel is 
> preferred for maintaining a varnish brush when not in use.  (I used a new 
> brush every coat on the sole)
> 
> A few other brief comments.
> 
> i.  My fall project list now includes pulling up the sole to sand and reapply 
> epoxy to the edges.  I plan to do this every second Fall. I am paranoid about 
> water intrusion
> 
> ii. The largest sections will barely squeeze in through companionway.  Expect 
> to have the trim around companionway marred and in need of refinish. 
> 
> iii. getting the large sections up a 

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Check to see whether the oil leak is coming from your dipstick.  If it's
loose, that's probably the source.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 2:33 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> fN9fpTwZU8i43n_UqFHnZ08Jo-E_5-Nir7QXmWd9Lbg=
> hxL87ZP2j1ICU9zsXDJgbyaQW3tUT1RtaqkHXLP4UKM=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 4:56 PM Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like rings to crankcase blow by to me.  Does this engine have a
> breather on the side of the crankcase?  My IHC Cub engine, essentially an
> Atomic 4, has this breather that before my restoration, would emit blow by
> gasses.  There is no other source of pressure to emit oil or gas.  You
> could run a compression test once again.
>
> You may find broken ring bits in your oil pan.
>
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
>
> ___
> My 1981 C 34 was repowered about 2000 by a prior owner with a Yanmar
> 3GM30F. It obviously fit but there is almost no access to the port side.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

>


> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Rick,

The wooden frame sounds like a good idea and I’m hoping that was done with my 
model. Short of drilling and cutting into either the headliner portion of the 
interior liner or the deck laminate, there is no way for me to tell. Is the 
frame something that can be inspected on your model?

If it were not for ruining the base frame on the main cabin hatch I would still 
be using the original A-H hatch. I had them completely rebuilt when I first 
bought the boat.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:43 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My mid 70s 38 (which has similar construction to the 37, AFIK) has a wooden 
> frame laminated between the deck and the headliner around the foredeck hatch. 
> That also appears to be true for the cabin top hatch, and was also true for a 
> friends early 80s 29-2.
>  
> On both my 38 and the 29-2, the rebuilt or replacement hatch was secured with 
> #12x1” or 1 ¼” oval head screws driven into the wood, using butyl for sealant 
> (3M tape bought at my local auto parts store). 
>  
> On the 38, I reinstalled the A hatch after rebuilding it. On the 29-2 we 
> used a current production Lewmar (a low profile 50 series, IIRC) to replace 
> the OEM Superhatch. So in both cases the original holes lined up for the 
> hatch frame being installed
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Sounds like rings to crankcase blow by to me.  Does this engine have a
breather on the side of the crankcase?  My IHC Cub engine, essentially an
Atomic 4, has this breather that before my restoration, would emit blow by
gasses.  There is no other source of pressure to emit oil or gas.  You
could run a compression test once again.

You may find broken ring bits in your oil pan.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi

I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without paying 
more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.

First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of oil 
and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly where the 
leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The local mechanic, 
Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would be the head gasket as 
he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned the engine with brake 
cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in the engine and let it run 
for an extended period.  Although we some some oil leak never saw the 
florescence with a black light.

Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of course 
the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the leak occurs 
there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too much oil in it 
if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve and rocker arm cover. 
 So, while the engine was running I pulled off the breather hose which runs 
from the cover to the manifold.  And there was pressure and there was oil which 
blew all over.

Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a worn 
engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the crankcase 
building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason for this?  I had 
a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was fine then.  But that was 
then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled engine is not worth that kind 
of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on it.

Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.  Any 
comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems about right 
for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.  Anyone have 
experience with this?

Thanks
Don Jonsson
C 34
Victoria



Sent from my iPad
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C Fleet Flag

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=225=430=show_detail
 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Sep 27, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Catherine & Michael Egberts via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> We recently purchased a 1980's C this summer and want to fly a C Fleet 
> Flag (other fleets at our club have a fleet flag and we think it looks 
> great). 
> 
> I have done some quick searching on Google and was not able to find a flag. 
> Does anyone know if these flags are still being sold, and if so, how to get 
> in contact with someone who might sell them?
> 
> Ideally, we want to have a larger size flag that we could fly off the spin 
> halyard, but a smaller one for the spreader would be ok, too. 
> 
> Thank you for your consideration! 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Michael Egberts 
> theegbertsfam...@gmail.com 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C Fleet Flag

[Catherine & Michael Egberts via CnC-List]

Hello,

We recently purchased a 1980's C this summer and want to fly a C Fleet
Flag (other fleets at our club have a fleet flag and we think it looks
great).

I have done some quick searching on Google and was not able to find a flag.
Does anyone know if these flags are still being sold, and if so, how to get
in contact with someone who might sell them?

Ideally, we want to have a larger size flag that we could fly off the spin
halyard, but a smaller one for the spreader would be ok, too.

Thank you for your consideration!

Cheers,

Michael Egberts
theegbertsfam...@gmail.com
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you send it via PayPal, it should reply back that Stu accepted the payment. 
It does for me.

Marek


From: John via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 14:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John
Subject: Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we should 
all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Ditto!

Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far outweigh 
your contribution.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the list:

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, Stu 
picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the goodness 
of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of masochism, 
involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our financial support 
to help him continue to provide this service.

So pony up; I just did.

— Fred




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I have always supported Stu each year and will continue to do so. While I have 
no idea of what his costs actually are, the list has been, by far, the most 
valuable part of owning my C The advice and guidance has probably saved me 
thousands in labor fees because it has given me the knowledge and courage to 
take on projects that I would have never touched before. 

Add to that the relationships that have developed, both online and offline, 
between myself and other C owners, has been of tremendous personal value to 
me. The people I have met in person like the two Jon's from Hideaway, David 
Risch of Corsair, Don and Ellen Sweeney of Harbor Lights, David Knecht of 
Aries, Neil Gallagher of Weatherly, Josh Muckley from Sea Hawk, etc. — and two 
years ago, at our C Rendezvous in Clinton, I had the honor of meeting the man 
himself, Stu, and his wife — all wonderful people, making it more than easy for 
me to open the wallet a bit and support this effort.  

OK, there’s Rob Gallagher of Hanuman too, but no system is perfect :-)

I have purchased, and am holding onto, ccowners.com  and 
some similar domains. Between those and some of the resources available to me 
through my work, it is my intention that, once Stu decides to end the list, to 
create a new one so it will live on — not for money, but to continue to have 
this great service available to all of us. But, to be absolutely clear, I will 
not launch a competing site or list — this is Stu’s baby and I’m only willing 
to take it on ONLY when he no longer wants to.  

In the meantime, as the Street Smarts man himself, Fred Street, says: Pony up. 

We want both Stu and this list to (forgive me) live long and prosper! 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Sep 27, 2017, at 2:28 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Decide what the service is worth to you, and then send a little more.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:24 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no 
> understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has 
> been hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a 
> ballpark figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount 
> would be helpful to some.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
>> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we 
>> should all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>> Ditto!
>>> 
>>> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far 
>>> outweigh your contribution.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>> > wrote:
>>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the 
>>> list:
>>> 
 The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
 contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
 
 All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
>>> everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
>>> years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, 
>>> Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the 
>>> goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of 
>>> masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our 
>>> financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>> 
>>> So pony up; I just did.
>>> 
>>> — Fred
>>> 
>>> 
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to 

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I’ll see what I can find for a good Stu sale. I have “sold” a few things over 
the years where the cash went straight to Stu.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 2:28 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

Decide what the service is worth to you, and then send a little more.
Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:24 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no 
understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has been 
hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a ballpark 
figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount would be 
helpful to some.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33


Sent from my iPad

On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List 
> wrote:
You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we should 
all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Ditto!

Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far outweigh 
your contribution.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the list:

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, Stu 
picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the goodness 
of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of masochism, 
involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our financial support 
to help him continue to provide this service.

So pony up; I just did.

— Fred




___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=FIVY0yGgS1cE-u_-vlP5BNJwMU6Iq1zrwaaZjxoLWYk=GWf2pinPwTOv9oifChCfZyhuFKgW359q0mQfkpA2Fvg=

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending 

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Decide what the service is worth to you, and then send a little more.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:24 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no
> understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has
> been hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a
> ballpark figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount
> would be helpful to some.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we
> should all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift
> received.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ditto!
>
> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far
> outweigh your contribution.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the
>> list:
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s
>> probably everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some
>> money.  Many years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific
>> email lists, Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out
>> of both the goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a
>> bit of masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves
>> our financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>
>> So pony up; I just did.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=FIVY0yGgS1cE-u_-
> vlP5BNJwMU6Iq1zrwaaZjxoLWYk=GWf2pinPwTOv9oifChCfZyhuFKgW35
> 9q0mQfkpA2Fvg=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no 
understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has been 
hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a ballpark 
figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount would be 
helpful to some.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we should 
> all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Ditto!
>> 
>> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far 
>> outweigh your contribution.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the 
>>> list:
>>> 
 The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
 contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
>>> everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
>>> years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, 
>>> Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the 
>>> goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of 
>>> masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our 
>>> financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>> 
>>> So pony up; I just did.
>>> 
>>> — Fred
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Stu usually acknowledges contributions on the web site.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List 
wrote:

> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we
> should all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift
> received.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ditto!
>
> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far
> outweigh your contribution.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the
>> list:
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s
>> probably everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some
>> money.  Many years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific
>> email lists, Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out
>> of both the goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a
>> bit of masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves
>> our financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>
>> So pony up; I just did.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_
> 0P2VVMTEWruFXufdiLe-VP_h2GZ_mJClVASrh4Ftic=cFUHiBbKYCFlQVdb8whL4o_
> 12cQo1Nr2QVswPUxgDEA=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[John via CnC-List]

You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always 
wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we should 
all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift received. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ditto!
> 
> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far outweigh 
> your contribution.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the 
>> list:
>> 
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
>> everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
>> years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, Stu 
>> picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the 
>> goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of 
>> masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our 
>> financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>> 
>> So pony up; I just did.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto!

Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far
outweigh your contribution.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the
> list:
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably
> everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many
> years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists,
> Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the
> goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of
> masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our
> financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>
> So pony up; I just did.
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[BRUCE BOLTON via CnC-List]

I completed this same job on our 35-3 and it can be done with Two 4X8 sheets, 
however you will need to spline the rear piece by the galley as this area is 
about 5 feet wide at that point. I used 1/4 inch teak/holly laminated to 1/2 
inch marine grade plywood using epoxy as the adhesive- this was much less 
expensive and I have no issues in the past ten years. I coated the underside 
with anti-mildew paint to seal it and to prevent growth.
Bruce
C 35 - 3
Apple Tree
- Original Message -
From: Indigo via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo 
Sent: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 09:33:04 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin 
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this 
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide. 

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I recently 
asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job and allow 
the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 pieces are 
needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as 
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to new 
veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how many 
coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration into the 
plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane 
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,  
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Attention Stu Murray

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Stu

In case it slipped your memory my boat name is Persistence (use lower case)

Mike
Halifax
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Supporting Stu

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the list:

> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s probably 
everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some money.  Many 
years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific email lists, Stu 
picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out of both the goodness 
of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a bit of masochism, 
involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves our financial support 
to help him continue to provide this service.

So pony up; I just did.

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yes, you should use something like Nickel Anti-Seize.

On the front of the 2QM15 there is a 3-way joint where a zinc plug screws into. 
 This 3-way is no longer available from Yanmar (3-way joint (724070-0130).
For galvanic protection, I would NOT use liquid gasket or lock tight.I 
researched this years back and came across a recommendation to use a nickel or 
marine grade anti-seize.  Regular anti seize contains Zinc which may acerbate 
the problem.  Nickel anti-seize costs only a few dollars extra and one 
container will last you a life time.

The first time I tried to replace the zincs on a 2QM15,  I found a galled zinc 
plug in the 3-way joint.  I had to remove and bring the 3-way joint into our 
machine shop to get it apart.  It took a lot of heat, a big vice, a rather 
large pipe wrench with a pipe for extra leverage, and 3 guys(one at a time on 
the pipe wench while the others provided advise and jokes).  When it finally 
came apart, the threads on the plug were wasted.  I purchased new a plug, and I 
was able to clean up and rethread the 3-way.  I owned the 2QM15(29-1) for many 
years, and now have a 3QM30, and I am still on my same jug of Nickel anti-seize 
with no problems.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 10:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 07:12:10 -0700
> From: Chris Hobson  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets
> Message-ID: <86d19156-f1a5-4485-b6f9-54dac1c00...@hobsonbuildsco.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected 
> engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after 
> switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be 
> putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the 
> must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them 
> back together? 
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacing Cabin Soles - sealing edges

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On epoxying the edges of plywood, holly/teak, etc.  Neat epoxy has little
tensile strength.  I've seen epoxy coatings on plywood edges crack.
Notably on plywood transoms.

My opinion, 1/4 inch plywood is too thin to cover with glass tape.  Cutting
a 1/4 inch strip of glass tape is folly.  On the other hand, if you were to
wrap glass tape around the edge from the bottom, you'd probably end up
sanding the excess from the top and possibly exposing the wood you're
trying to protect.

Perhaps a good compromise would be to coat the edges with neat epoxy to
ensure a good bond then overcoat that with a coat or two of epoxy thickened
with microfibers to add some strength.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan

I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016.  The Frers 33 is not the 
same boat as the C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job are 
similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions.

First be prepared for sticker shock.  I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of 3/4 
inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD.  

1a) Lining up.  I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home.  When 
I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly lines with 
those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it would line up 
the same as the old sole.  It did.  I think the first step will be to ensure 
your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up.

1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or paneling or 
something similar that is 1/4 inch thick.  When I bought my sheet of teak and 
Holly it came with something like this to protect the surface during transport. 
 Once you have this lay out the pieces of old sole on top and trace them out.  
You can then turn it over to trace out the remaining pieces on the back.  Is 
kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will give you a pretty clear picture how many 
pieces of sole material are needed.  If you use a couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 
sheets you could also cut out the traced pieces and use them to test fit in 
your boat as I did before cutting the expensive teak and holly.  One thing I 
encountered was that my jigsaw fitting had to be amended a bit when I laid the 
old sole pieces atop the new sole to account for the lining up of holly strips.

2) Tools.  I am certain that others have better suggestions for tool but I used 
a circular saw for my straight cuts and a jigsaw for the curved cuts (there 
were not many curves).  On the tapered edges along the underside I used a angle 
grinder with a sanding pad.  Also a Random Orbital sander to smooth the edges 
of my cuts. I put masking tape over the lines to be cut before using the saw to 
reduce splintering.

3) Epoxy.  Yes the underside but more importantly the edges.  Almost every case 
I have heard of soles delaminating and the finish lifting starts with water 
intrusion from the edges.  Yes the first coat should be thinned (West has 
advice about how to thin for first coat on wood).  At least three coats IMO.  

4) For the exposed cosmetic surface I applied three coats of West 105/206 
followed by three coats (or four?) of Epifanes varnish.  I chose the Satin 
finish and in a test piece it looked far better than the gloss and hides many 
small imperfections.  I used a brush for varnish and roll/tip with foam roller 
for epoxy..  Interestingly this year I learned that diesel fuel is preferred 
for maintaining a varnish brush when not in use.  (I used a new brush every 
coat on the sole)

A few other brief comments.

i.  My fall project list now includes pulling up the sole to sand and reapply 
epoxy to the edges.  I plan to do this every second Fall. I am paranoid about 
water intrusion

ii. The largest sections will barely squeeze in through companionway.  Expect 
to have the trim around companionway marred and in need of refinish. 

iii. getting the large sections up a ladder and into a covered boat in the off 
season is very tricky.  Plan ahead

Best of luck with this project.  The end result will be outstanding!

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16 (not a C)
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin 
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this 
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide. 

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I recently 
asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job and allow 
the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 pieces are 
needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as 
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to new 
veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how many 
coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration into the 
plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane 
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,  
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

On the same note, does the list have any thoughts on covering the sole with a 
thin teak and holly laminate/plastic(?) that is basically 'stuck/glued' to the 
original sole. 
 
I saw an article in Sail Magazine about how to do this but don't know how it 
might hold up--probably a lot cheaper and easier than redoing the sole.
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
 
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Wed, Sep 27, 2017 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII



Jonathan,


Can't help with 1 and 2, but I recall someone suggesting screwing the old 
boards to the new ones to be sure the holly is lined up.  I would use 
penetrating epoxy on edges and bottom.  It is the consistency of varnish.  It 
is not clear so I would test it on a scrap before deciding whether to use it on 
the top.



I used Epiphanes RapidClear on my companionway steps this year (3 coats).  So 
far, no signs of wear!  They make RapidCoat, which is tinted to match older 
wood.  I've used that elsewhere and am happy with the results.  Both can be 
applied after a few hours of drying, so you can get 2-3 coats done in a day.


Joel



On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:33 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin 
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this 
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide.

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I recently 
asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job and allow 
the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 pieces are 
needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as 
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to new 
veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how many 
coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration into the 
plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane 
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,  
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I would have to agree also. Starboard does not have all that much structural 
strength


Regards,
BillC 39

 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Date: 9/27/17  09:44  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related... 

David,
I do not think starboard will handle a load if you actually try to sail with 
the board down.  In all likelihood it will snap off.
Joel
On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:





I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 
1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .    



Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?



Thanks in advance.



1981 40-2










Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone




___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[coltrek via CnC-List]

I used stainless steel helicoils when reattaching the hood over the 
companionway. I think I put a little vaseline on the machine screws, and set 
them and thickened epoxy. Works fabulous. I did my grab rails with those little 
wood insert things that you referenced, which also worked well in the wood


Regards,
Bill ColemanC 39

 Original message 
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
Date: 9/27/17  09:34  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. 

Hello all,
I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a 
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion 
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into).  This way one can 
remove the screw multiple times.  

So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this:  
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1506518994=8-3=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts
If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a 
threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core 
damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the 
future?
Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


   From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
   
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit



__ _



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jonathan,

Can't help with 1 and 2, but I recall someone suggesting screwing the old
boards to the new ones to be sure the holly is lined up.  I would use
penetrating epoxy on edges and bottom.  It is the consistency of varnish.
It is not clear so I would test it on a scrap before deciding whether to
use it on the top.

I used Epiphanes RapidClear on my companionway steps this year (3 coats).
So far, no signs of wear!  They make RapidCoat, which is tinted to match
older wood.  I've used that elsewhere and am happy with the results.  Both
can be applied after a few hours of drying, so you can get 2-3 coats done
in a day.

Joel

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:33 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly
> cabin sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings
> on this list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step"
> guide.
>
> Things I need help on!
>
> 1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I
> recently asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job
> and allow the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3
> pieces are needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?
>
> 2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as
> templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to
> new veneer?
>
> 3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how
> many coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration
> into the plywood?
>
> 4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane
> varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,
> semi-gloss, gloss?)
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Schaefer genoa car modification

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

The Schaefer pin stop cars will still not slide under load, even with a
tackle to pull them.  I'd recommend you talk to Guido at Gauheur.  They
will sell you ball bearing cars that fit your 1-1/4" "I" Meriman track and
you'll love them.  Insist on the ball bearing version, otherwise he will
sell you the Delrin bearing version, which is not as good IMO.  You do have
to be careful installing the ball bearing cars, because the balls are loose
and you could drop them.  That's why they sell more Delrin versions.  The
ball bearing version come on a short piece of track which you butt up to
you existing track and slide it on.  It's really that easy.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA



~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:26 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have the standard Schaefer pin stop double aluminum genoa cars that were
> standard on many 80s CHas anyone ever removed the pins and tapped
> and screwed on a bail to connect a block and make them towable.  Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 10:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.
>
> Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets
> of 2'x4' through 2'x8'
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the
>> while thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine
>> for its 1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .
>>
>> Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> 1981 40-2
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[David via CnC-List]

Ah!!!   That sounds like a plan.   Trying to avoid wood...painting etc.   
Thanks Josh and Joel.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 9/27/17 10:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.

Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets of 
2'x4' through 2'x8'

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 
1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .

Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?

Thanks in advance.

1981 40-2



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My mid 70s 38 (which has similar construction to the 37, AFIK) has a wooden 
frame laminated between the deck and the headliner around the foredeck hatch. 
That also appears to be true for the cabin top hatch, and was also true for a 
friends early 80s 29-2.

 

On both my 38 and the 29-2, the rebuilt or replacement hatch was secured with 
#12x1” or 1 ¼” oval head screws driven into the wood, using butyl for sealant 
(3M tape bought at my local auto parts store). 

 

On the 38, I reinstalled the A hatch after rebuilding it. On the 29-2 we used 
a current production Lewmar (a low profile 50 series, IIRC) to replace the OEM 
Superhatch. So in both cases the original holes lined up for the hatch frame 
being installed

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 7:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

 

Given that EVERY hole in my deck was filled with low-densify West 

System prior to painting, I’m in good shape replacing the remaining original 
Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I will make sure to 
drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of filling and fairing so the 
mating surface will be pristine.

 

I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C installation.

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit  

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin 
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this 
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide. 

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I recently 
asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job and allow 
the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 pieces are 
needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as 
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to new 
veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how many 
coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration into the 
plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane 
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,  
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The centerboard on the Dyer Dhow awaiting restoration in my back yard is made 
from marine plywood.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 10:36 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

 

I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.

 

Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets of 
2'x4' through 2'x8'

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List"  > wrote:

I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 
1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .

 

Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

1981 40-2

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Schaefer genoa car modification

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I have the standard Schaefer pin stop double aluminum genoa cars that were 
standard on many 80s CHas anyone ever removed the pins and tapped and 
screwed on a bail to connect a block and make them towable.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 10:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.
> 
> Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets of 
> 2'x4' through 2'x8'
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
>> thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for 
>> its 1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .
>> 
>> Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 1981 40-2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Oh man, a not-suitable for sensitive people disclaimer should have been 
included.

Bill Dakin

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 7:59 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoIVcbcf4Dg
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> 
>> On 9/27/2017 2:31 AM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List wrote:
>> An update: X Dimension is back in Boston, moored at her usual home at 
>> Waterboat Marina.
>> 
>> The boat was delivered from Boothbay by MIT's youngest skipper, All American 
>> sailor Lisa Sukharev-Chuyan, 24, and her younger brother Max. Lisa picked a 
>> good window post-Irma/Jose, before Maria hits New England. The delivery took 
>> about 36 hours. If you want to see the skipper's report, email me.
>> 
>> So yeah, this boat can sail. XD practically steers herself upwind. I have 
>> always been able to balance her in two seconds in any wind. She sails better 
>> than any other boat I've ever sailed, when I think about it. So despite her 
>> wet core and a list of other problems, this is a great boat. If you have the 
>> skills (and the money, sigh) to fix her up, you may end up owning a 
>> beautiful C cruiser/racer. 
>> 
>> I have neither the skills to fix XD up myself, nor the money to pay someone 
>> else to do it. If I did, I would take the boat myself. 
>> 
>> Thanks for the replies. I wouldn't make too much out of the one/two winch 
>> handles. Maybe one floating handle got lost. 
>> 
>> From an MIT engineer point of view, it is good to know how a boat gets cut 
>> up. I was wondering about the mechanics of it. Thanks for the details (as 
>> gruesome as they are). That's not likely to happen to XD at this point, 
>> there seem to be enough interested parties to acquire the boat. 
>> 
>> Fair winds,
>> 
>> Violeta
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:31 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 2:07 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a sawzall.  I 
 have seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal 29.  I don’t know why a 43 
 would be much different – it would just take longer.  It’s a shame to see.
  
 My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took about two 
 years to repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.
  
 From: Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Violeta M Ivanova
 Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free
  
 The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I 
 updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last 
 December. I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed 
 on the boat and what was reflected on the wiki. 
 
 More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following 
 items will not be included with the boat: 
 
 Handheld VHF radio
 Lifejackets and harnesses
 Dinghy
 MOB light and mount
 Storm jib
 Tools
 Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
 Jacklines
 Buckets
 One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
 Foul weather gear
 AIS and splitter
 Radar reflector
 Laptop/iPads
 Chart plotting tools
 Canadian charts
 Garmin GPS
  
 Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It 
 seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat 
 repairs -- I have never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I 
 am on this list because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more 
 experience than I have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back 
 with comments. 
 
 Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or 
 aybe someone else will acquire her, or 
 maybe the boat will go to the cutter. Speaking of which ...
 
 How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat, 
 if you want to destroy it? 
 
 I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye. 
  
 Violeta
  
  
> On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.  
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List  
> Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: CnC-List  
> Cc: Lee Youngblood  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free 
> 
> Hi All,

Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Not a happy youtube.Jim schwartz SEA YA'38 lfWashington nc 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/27/17  9:10 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Danny Haughey 
via CnC-List  Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension 
available for free 
That just makes me sad…   :^(
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Sep 27, 2017, at 7:59 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoIVcbcf4Dg

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I’ve done that before, and it works fine.  It’s a lot of extra effort, though.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

Hello all,

I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a 
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion 
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into).  This way one can 
remove the screw multiple times.  


So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this:  
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1506518994=8-3=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts

If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a 
threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core 
damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the 
future?

Curious as to how this approach would be lacking,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net






From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.


Dave, 

I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.

You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.

In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here. 

  I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and 
am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years

  The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.

  So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?

  Best,
  Dave Godwin
  1982 C 37 - Ronin
  Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
  Ronin’s Overdue Refit


  __ _

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Working on my Qm I have found patience a must. 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List  
Date: 2017-09-27  11:12  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Hobson  
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets 

Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected 
engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after 
switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be 
putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the 
must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them 
back together? 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.

Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets of
2'x4' through 2'x8'

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the
> while thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine
> for its 1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .
>
> Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> 1981 40-2
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected 
engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after 
switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be 
putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the 
must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them 
back together? 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

David,

I do not think starboard will handle a load if you actually try to sail
with the board down.  In all likelihood it will snap off.

Joel

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the
> while thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine
> for its 1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .
>
> Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> 1981 40-2
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a 
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion 
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into).  This way one can 
remove the screw multiple times.  

So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this:  
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1506518994=8-3=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts
If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a 
threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core 
damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the 
future?
Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
   
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work.  If it was 
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A 
hatch.  If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a 
strong bond.  My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so.  So the 
fastener is only grabbing that much.  If you overbore carefully down to the top 
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is 
thicker than the original deck.  More material for the fastener to grab.  
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of 
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Not C & C buy kinda related...

[David via CnC-List]

I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for its 
1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .

Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?

Thanks in advance.

1981 40-2



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I can't say I've ever seen, nor heard of butyl rubber in a tube.  

Just FYI,  
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Tom Jacobs via CnC-List 
 To: Dave Godwin  
Cc: Tom Jacobs ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 8:07 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
   
Dave 
Did the same on our 37 Amazing Grace about five years ago. Used new screws, no 
bolts. Invested time in digging out the minor amount of open weak wood. There 
was no rot but around the screws has some gaps and would not have held the 
screws with out solid filling. After filling with epoxy leveled the surface 
better than original to allow a consistent fill of sealant. I think we used 
butyl rubber from a tube. Still working in San Diego, no leaks. 

Sent from my iPhone
972-849-4730


On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:



So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am 
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch 
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch 
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. 
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last

[David via CnC-List]

Welcome Vincent and good luck with your new boat!

1981 40-2



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Vince Pietrantonio via CnC-List 
Date: 9/26/17 7:22 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: David Castor via CnC-List 
Cc: Vince Pietrantonio 
Subject: Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last

I purchased my first sailboat, C 24 built in 1984.  Looking for Bimini top, 
live in the Burlington On area.

Thanks,

Vince


Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device - via the Bell Network
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: September 26, 2017 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-to: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dpcas...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How long do zinc last


My boat is in the marina at Port Angeles. Checked shaft anodes at 12 months and 
they were gone. Diver told me to expect 6 months max. I do have galvanic 
isolator.

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 8:15 PM svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I hauled my new-to-me boat not long ago. Only to find the new zinc I had my 
diver put on 2 weeks prior were over 25% gone. Something deffintly amiss here. 
I checked for stray voltage between the neutral on the shore power cord and the 
water I had 0.65 volts. Is this high or about normal?

 To my knowledge I don't have a galvanic isolator. It is on the ever expanding 
list. I know that I have some wiring issues on the DC side. Mostly poor wiring 
techniques.
I also have what appears to be some sort of coil/transformer in line on the 
output cable from the alternator.  Just the alternator cables and a ground 
(black) wire. Anybody familiar with this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Rebecca Leah LF39
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
--
Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That just makes me sad…   :^(

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 7:59 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoIVcbcf4Dg 
> 
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoIVcbcf4Dg

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/27/2017 2:31 AM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List wrote:
An update: X Dimension is back in Boston, moored at her usual home at 
Waterboat Marina.


The boat was delivered from Boothbay by MIT's youngest skipper, All 
American sailor Lisa Sukharev-Chuyan, 24, and her younger brother Max. 
Lisa picked a good window post-Irma/Jose, before Maria hits New 
England. The delivery took about 36 hours. If you want to see the 
skipper's report, email me.


So yeah, this boat can sail. XD practically steers herself upwind. I 
have always been able to balance her in two seconds in any wind. She 
sails better than any other boat I've ever sailed, when I think about 
it. So despite her wet core and a list of other problems, this is a 
great boat. If you have the skills (and the money, sigh) to fix her 
up, you may end up owning a beautiful C cruiser/racer.


I have neither the skills to fix XD up myself, nor the money to pay 
someone else to do it. If I did, I would take the boat myself.


Thanks for the replies. I wouldn't make too much out of the one/two 
winch handles. Maybe one floating handle got lost.


From an MIT engineer point of view, it is good to know how a boat gets 
cut up. I was wondering about the mechanics of it. Thanks for the 
details (as gruesome as they are). That's not likely to happen to XD 
at this point, there seem to be enough interested parties to acquire 
the boat.


Fair winds,

Violeta



On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:31 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
> wrote:




On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 2:07 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
> wrote:

Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a
sawzall.  I have seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal
29.  I don't know why a 43 would be much different -- it would
just take longer.  It's a shame to see.
My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took
about two years to repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.
*From:* Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Violeta M Ivanova 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension
available for free
The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT
volunteers. I updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not
touched it since last December. I have not seen XD this year.
I don't know how much has changed on the boat and what was
reflected on the wiki.

More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference,
the following items will *not* be included with the boat:

Handheld VHF radio
Lifejackets and harnesses
Dinghy
MOB light and mount
Storm jib
Tools
Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
Jacklines
Buckets
One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
Foul weather gear
AIS and splitter
Radar reflector
Laptop/iPads
Chart plotting tools
Canadian charts
Garmin GPS
Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey
already. It seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am
no expert on boat repairs -- I have never dealt with wet balsa
core or anything like that. I am on this list because I am
learning a lot from members with vastly more experience than I
have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with
comments.

Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more
about it, or aybe someone else will acquire her, or maybe the
boat will go to the cutter. Speaking of which ...

How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a
43-foot boat, if you want to destroy it?

I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a
goodbye.
Violeta
On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List
> wrote:

I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not
surprising.
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List >
Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC-List >
Cc: Lee Youngblood >

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

you know, someone on the Tartan list offered an interesting technique.  
He said you could drill, overbore, then set a nut, with bolt at the 
bottom of the prepped opening.  you use a releasing agent to the threads 
of the bolt. then you pour in you thickened epoxy.  After the epoxy 
cures you remove the bolt, countersink the bolt hole and you have a nice 
machined attachment completely concealed.


It sounds great in theory.  the only tricky part i see is getting the 
location almost perfect with so many attachment points.


I think this could be done with some kind of template.  maybe some thin 
plywood?  if you use threaded rod to set the concealed nut.  Make the 
rods long enough ti stick an inch above the deck, you could then use a 
2nd nut, raised a little above the deck as a stop for the template.  
Then, you set the nuts with rods (don't forget the releasing agent!), 
pour in the thickened epoxy and drop the template over the rods, onto 
the nuts and you should have a perfectly spaced bolt pattern...


Danny


On 9/27/2017 7:22 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
Okay, so I post a question, sign off and go to dinner. Catch a TV show 
and roll off to bed. Wake up the next day and see, not surprisingly, 
that there are great suggestions and good examples on both sides of 
the problem.


Also see that the thread has take a bit of an off-beat turn. Again, 
not surprising knowing this list.  


Anyway, Dennis and Tom, thanks. Given that EVERY hole in my deck was 
filled with low-densify West
System prior to painting, I’m in good shape replacing the remaining 
original Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I 
will make sure to drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of 
filling and fairing so the mating surface will be pristine.


I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C 
installation.


Danny, no, there is no “headliner” as I think you mean it. On this 
model the deck is molded and a GRP liner glued to the overhead and 
then the whole unit bolted to the hull. There are no teak frames 
around any ports or hatches.


Gary, Fred and Dave, thanks for the sound advice on not exposing my nuts….

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

On Sep 26, 2017, at 10:31 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Dave,
I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and 
ended up through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks 
bad and I do keep hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I 
did the job.

Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> wrote:


So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas 
and experiences here.


I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last 
year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the 
Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting 
the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away 
all the originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal 
screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those 
and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years


The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 
machine screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant 
to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when 
lying and looking upwards in the v-berth.


So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Okay, so I post a question, sign off and go to dinner. Catch a TV show and roll 
off to bed. Wake up the next day and see, not surprisingly, that there are 
great suggestions and good examples on both sides of the problem.

Also see that the thread has take a bit of an off-beat turn. Again, not 
surprising knowing this list.  

Anyway, Dennis and Tom, thanks. Given that EVERY hole in my deck was filled 
with low-densify West 
System prior to painting, I’m in good shape replacing the remaining original 
Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I will make sure to 
drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of filling and fairing so the 
mating surface will be pristine.

I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C installation.

Danny, no, there is no “headliner” as I think you mean it. On this model the 
deck is molded and a GRP liner glued to the overhead and then the whole unit 
bolted to the hull. There are no teak frames around any ports or hatches.

Gary, Fred and Dave, thanks for the sound advice on not exposing my nuts….

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 26, 2017, at 10:31 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up 
> through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do 
> keep hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and 
>> experiences here.
>> 
>> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and 
>> am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle 
>> hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The 
>> original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a 
>> dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No 
>> through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus 
>> years
>> 
>> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws 
>> and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my 
>> overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the 
>> v-berth.
>> 
>> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List]

An update: X Dimension is back in Boston, moored at her usual home at
Waterboat Marina.

The boat was delivered from Boothbay by MIT's youngest skipper, All
American sailor Lisa Sukharev-Chuyan, 24, and her younger brother Max. Lisa
picked a good window post-Irma/Jose, before Maria hits New England. The
delivery took about 36 hours. If you want to see the skipper's report,
email me.

So yeah, this boat can sail. XD practically steers herself upwind. I have
always been able to balance her in two seconds in any wind. She sails
better than any other boat I've ever sailed, when I think about it. So
despite her wet core and a list of other problems, this is a great boat. If
you have the skills (and the money, sigh) to fix her up, you may end up
owning a beautiful C cruiser/racer.

I have neither the skills to fix XD up myself, nor the money to pay someone
else to do it. If I did, I would take the boat myself.

Thanks for the replies. I wouldn't make too much out of the one/two winch
handles. Maybe one floating handle got lost.

>From an MIT engineer point of view, it is good to know how a boat gets cut
up. I was wondering about the mechanics of it. Thanks for the details (as
gruesome as they are). That's not likely to happen to XD at this point,
there seem to be enough interested parties to acquire the boat.

Fair winds,

Violeta



On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:31 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 2:07 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a sawzall.  I
>> have seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal 29.  I don’t know why a 43
>> would be much different – it would just take longer.  It’s a shame to see.
>>
>> My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took about two
>> years to repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.
>>
>> *From:* Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Violeta M Ivanova 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for
>> free
>>
>> The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I
>> updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last
>> December. I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed
>> on the boat and what was reflected on the wiki.
>>
>> More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following
>> items will *not* be included with the boat:
>>
>> Handheld VHF radio
>> Lifejackets and harnesses
>> Dinghy
>> MOB light and mount
>> Storm jib
>> Tools
>> Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
>> Jacklines
>> Buckets
>> One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
>> Foul weather gear
>> AIS and splitter
>> Radar reflector
>> Laptop/iPads
>> Chart plotting tools
>> Canadian charts
>> Garmin GPS
>>
>> Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It
>> seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs
>> -- I have never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on
>> this list because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more
>> experience than I have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with
>> comments.
>>
>> Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it,
>> or aybe someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the
>> cutter. Speaking of which ...
>>
>> How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot
>> boat, if you want to destroy it?
>>
>> I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye.
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>>
>>>
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>>> Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>> To: CnC-List 
>>> Cc: Lee Youngblood 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for
>>> free
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>> I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as
>>> a broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:
>>> http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors
>>>
>>> Wow, Lee
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by