Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I rarely used the baby stay on my 34 – only when venturing out into the lake 
(Erie) with waves over 3-4 feet.  However, like insurance, you only need it 
when you need it – and then you really need it.  It should be fixed properly, 
whatever that entails.

From: G Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 9:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: G Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of the 
season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the clutch, 
and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.  


Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
actively use the baby stay.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

  Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay 
to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your 
boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a 
Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it 
you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are 
not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum 
telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. 
My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders 
are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously 
off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA 
the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my 
sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now 
if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason 
of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to 
miss!
  Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory 
but in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping 
fore and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters 
and  have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the 
rolled up stay are kept on board anyway!

  FWIW

  Charlie Nelson
  1995 C 36XL/kcb
  Water Phantom


  Sent from my iPhone

  On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
 wrote:


My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a 
lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  left 
if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I 
would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be. 

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?

Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in 
the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do. 

Thanks,
Kevin




On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, 
and dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would 
serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look 
around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a new 
boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.  

  (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water 
line in v berth.


  2 cents

  On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chuck, et al, 

I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about 
assuming that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least 
that is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the 
keel” means.

With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate 
that the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod 
descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to the 
waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The load is 
not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler track.

Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. 
As I recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.

Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to 
this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.

Hope this helps.

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of the 
season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the clutch, 
and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.

Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
actively use the baby stay.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay 
to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your 
boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a 
Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it 
you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are 
not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum 
telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. 
My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders 
are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously 
off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA 
the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my 
sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now 
if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason 
of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to 
miss!
Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory but 
in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping fore 
and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters and  
have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the rolled up 
stay are kept on board anyway!

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
> wrote:


My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a lot of 
fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  left if there 
really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I would need to 
cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?

Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in the 
water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and 
dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would serve 
same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look around at 
what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a new boat. 
Cheaper, easier, better imo.

(my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line in v 
berth.

2 cents

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Chuck, et al,

I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming that 
the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that is my 
take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the keel” means.

With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that the 
top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod descends 
directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to the 
waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The load is 
not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler track.

Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I 
recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.

Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to this 
can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Fred,


I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the 
keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794


That's how it is on 

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay 
to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your 
boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a 
Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it 
you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are 
not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum 
telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. 
My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders 
are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously 
off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA 
the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my 
sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now 
if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason 
of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to 
miss!
Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory but 
in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping fore 
and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters and  
have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the rolled up 
stay are kept on board anyway!

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
> attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
> area. I don't have a track on mine.
> 
> If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a lot 
> of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  left if 
> there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I would 
> need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.
> 
> I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
> together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?
> 
> Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in 
> the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and 
>> dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would 
>> serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look 
>> around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a 
>> new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo. 
>> 
>> (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line 
>> in v berth.
>> 
>> 2 cents
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Chuck, et al,
>>> 
>>> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming 
>>> that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that 
>>> is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the 
>>> keel” means.
>>> 
>>> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that 
>>> the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod 
>>> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to 
>>> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The 
>>> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler 
>>> track.
>>> 
>>> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I 
>>> recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
>>> 
>>> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to 
>>> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps.
>>> 
>>> Best,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>>> 
 On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
 wrote:
 
 Fred,
 
 
 
 I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of 
 the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
 http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
 
 
 
 That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a 
 stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of 
 rod carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
 
 
 
 I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
 
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 C 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy 

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

This is stus list and moving to cloud may make it their list.

I have met people through this list that I have later met in person who are now 
friends. I have met people who I have never met in person who are friends  I 
have solved engine problems due to input from this list and learned that cows 
do better foredeck work than me. I have learned a lot.

This list is stus and we have all benefited. Moving to cloud makes it not stus. 
I am happy to support for all the c my family and i have owned or sailed on 
and the ones that are not c I believe strongly that this list is so good 
because of Stu

I also wonder if cows live on foredeck in Mexico

Mike Hoyt
The most consistent not currently c poster
The biggest interloper 
One of the strongest believers in what Stu has built

1987 non c
Persistence
Out of the water today
Halifax, ns

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: October 25, 2017 6:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Fundraising results

Thank you one and all for your contributions to pay for the costs
associated with this list and the Photo Album.

Some of the bills are in and others come later in the year and I don't
know if they have increased. You have made it possible that I will not be
digging into my pockets as much as other years.

I know Cloud Storage and other facilities are available and maybe at a
cheaper cost.  But there will be a lot lost if we change providers at this
time.  And the time required to rebuild would not be something I want to
do.

I cannot express my gratitude enough and I don't know how to say it other
than "THANK YOU"

Stu


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a
lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's
left if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much
glass I would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?

Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in
the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and
> dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would
> serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look
> around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a
> new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.
>
> (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line
> in v berth.
>
> 2 cents
>
> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Chuck, et al,
>>
>> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about
>> assuming that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At
>> least that is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front
>> of the keel” means.
>>
>> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate
>> that the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod
>> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to
>> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The
>> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler
>> track.
>>
>> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As
>> I recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
>>
>> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to
>> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>>
>> I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front
>> of the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
>> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
>>
>>
>> That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
>> stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod
>> carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
>>
>>
>> I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, M
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and
dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would
serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look
around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a
new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.

(my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line
in v berth.

2 cents

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck, et al,
>
> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming
> that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that
> is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the
> keel” means.
>
> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that
> the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod
> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to
> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The
> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler
> track.
>
> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I
> recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
>
> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to
> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
>
> I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of
> the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
>
>
> That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
> stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod
> carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
>
>
> I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, M
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Chuck, et al,

I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming that 
the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that is my 
take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the keel” means.

With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that the 
top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod descends 
directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to the 
waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The load is 
not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler track.

Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I 
recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.

Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to this 
can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> 
> 
> 
> I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of 
> the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
> 
> 
> 
> That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a 
> stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod 
> carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Fred,


I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the 
keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794


That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a 
stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod 
carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.


I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, M___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Chuck…following through, did my funds arrive about a month ago? I’m assuming 
they went to the right place. 

I do not contribute much or as much as I’d like at times, to the conversation 
but I learn quite a bit and I enjoy the connection 

Thank you for your efforts. 

James Bibb

Darwin’s Folly 34-36R
Juneau, Alaska. 




> On Oct 25, 2017, at 1:33 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Thank you one and all for your contributions to pay for the costs
> associated with this list and the Photo Album.
> 
> Some of the bills are in and others come later in the year and I don't
> know if they have increased. You have made it possible that I will not be
> digging into my pockets as much as other years.
> 
> I know Cloud Storage and other facilities are available and maybe at a
> cheaper cost.  But there will be a lot lost if we change providers at this
> time.  And the time required to rebuild would not be something I want to
> do.
> 
> I cannot express my gratitude enough and I don't know how to say it other
> than "THANK YOU"
> 
> Stu
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fundraising results

[Stu via CnC-List]

Thank you one and all for your contributions to pay for the costs
associated with this list and the Photo Album.

Some of the bills are in and others come later in the year and I don't
know if they have increased. You have made it possible that I will not be
digging into my pockets as much as other years.

I know Cloud Storage and other facilities are available and maybe at a
cheaper cost.  But there will be a lot lost if we change providers at this
time.  And the time required to rebuild would not be something I want to
do.

I cannot express my gratitude enough and I don't know how to say it other
than "THANK YOU"

Stu


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin

 

I am not sure if the stud is screwed into the keel or not.  We are on the hard 
so can take some measurements – probably this weekend

 

>From your photos it looks like it will be a challenge to remove the remaining 
>stud

 

Will be back after the measurements

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

Thanks John,

 

That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like this is not going to necessarily be an 
easy fix. 

Just so I make sure I understand what your saying. 

*   The stud is believed to be attached directly to the keel.
*   If that is true, then the shaft of the stud is probably 3+ inches 
through the hull and into the keel.
*   Possible fix would be to drill out the hole, tap the new hole and try 
to thread a new stud in its place.
*   Re seal the hole with epoxy and filler?

If it's directly attached to the keel, would threading a new hole be strong 
enough? How far down should I drill it out? 

I don't have exact measurements but the stud itself looks to be almost 1/2" 
thick. Where can I find something that large? I can only seem to find lifeline 
studs so far.

 

I also can't seem to find any information on this kind of thing online 
anywhere. Any suggestions on where to look?

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

 

On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 8:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Kevin

 

Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is money 
to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and corroded the 
stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack apart.  FWIW, we 
consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its integrity as it 
prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of helping to shape the 
mainsail.

 

Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded into the 
keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to separate the 
keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3 inches thick at 
its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside and outside might be 
in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next there in a week or so.  In 
any event, it looks like a job best handled on the hard – remove the remaining 
stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new stud.  Seal appropriately.

 

Best

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34 (hull 464)

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

Hey everyone,

I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken this 
past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat (~3-4 
years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke sometime 
in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down into the hole 
and it seems to have rusted away. 

 

1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard 
rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or if 
there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?

2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?

3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or am I 
going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?

 

Here are some photos for reference.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   

Re: Stus-List Stu's List fundraising month

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Is there an outline of what it costs to keep this going? Cloud storage is
awfully affordable these days.

Thx

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 1:55 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just chipped in $25.  A bargain, for this resource.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 2:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Stu, if you've reached your goal, please let us know.  Otherwise, we are
> nearing the end of October, the fundraising month for this wonderful C
> owners resource.  I hope everyone has sent Stu a donation to help him with
> the expense of maintaining the list for us.  The help, guidance and
> camaraderie of the list are worth much more than a few $$.
>
> Advice from listers is free but data storage and bandwidth aren't.
>
> If you haven't contributed, please consider doing so at:  <
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>
> Dennis C.
> Executive beer drinker and associate fund development activist
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stu's List fundraising month

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I just chipped in $25.  A bargain, for this resource.

Thanks,
Randy

> On Oct 25, 2017, at 2:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Stu, if you've reached your goal, please let us know.  Otherwise, we are 
> nearing the end of October, the fundraising month for this wonderful C 
> owners resource.  I hope everyone has sent Stu a donation to help him with 
> the expense of maintaining the list for us.  The help, guidance and 
> camaraderie of the list are worth much more than a few $$.
> 
> Advice from listers is free but data storage and bandwidth aren't.  
> 
> If you haven't contributed, please consider doing so at:  
> >
> 
> Dennis C.
> Executive beer drinker and associate fund development activist
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Stu's List fundraising month

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Stu, if you've reached your goal, please let us know.  Otherwise, we are
nearing the end of October, the fundraising month for this wonderful C
owners resource.  I hope everyone has sent Stu a donation to help him with
the expense of maintaining the list for us.  The help, guidance and
camaraderie of the list are worth much more than a few $$.

Advice from listers is free but data storage and bandwidth aren't.

If you haven't contributed, please consider doing so at:  <
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

Dennis C.
Executive beer drinker and associate fund development activist
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If it is the radio I think it is, it cost as much as a VHF and an AIS and had 
two antenna connections ☹

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon

From what I can find, it sounds like they’ve pushed the predicted release date 
back until at least mid January 2018.  I imagine the FCC certification is 
causing the delay.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 24, 2017, at 6:53 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Speaking of Fred;

Have you heard anything lately about the release of the new Standard Horizon 
VHF with built in AIS Transponder?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 11:05 AM
To: C >
Cc: ALAN BERGEN >
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon

Joe:
Talk to Fred Street.  I bought mine from him, and I'm very pleased with the 
instrument, and with the service Fred provided.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

From what I can find, it sounds like they’ve pushed the predicted release date 
back until at least mid January 2018.  I imagine the FCC certification is 
causing the delay.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 24, 2017, at 6:53 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Speaking of Fred;
>  
> Have you heard anything lately about the release of the new Standard Horizon 
> VHF with built in AIS Transponder?
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 11:05 AM
> To: C >
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon
>  
> Joe:
> 
> Talk to Fred Street.  I bought mine from him, and I'm very pleased with the 
> instrument, and with the service Fred provided.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Stuffing Material

[John Read via CnC-List]

Same on our 34.  John Read Sent from XFINITY Connect Application-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: efo...@gmail.com, robertabb...@eastlink.caSent: 2017-10-25 9:40:51 AM Subject: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Stuffing Material
  
  
I have a 1" prop shaft, e.g. I assume a 1" stuffing box and used
3/16" flax when I repacked it several years ago.FYI 

On 2017-10-25 9:11 AM, robert via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Eugene,
  The size of the flax (stuffing) depends on the diameter of the
  prop shaft.what is the diameter of the shaft?
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S. 
  
  On 2017-10-24 1:51 PM, Eugene Fodor
via CnC-List wrote:
  
  
I noticed that my stuffing box has started
  leaking pretty badly and suspect that the flax has never been
  replaced. I tightened it up once, but think it's at it's end.
  
  
  Does anyone know what size flax to use in the nut? 
  
  
  Thanks,
  
  
  Gene Fodor
  'Hawk' C 29-2




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  ___

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!



  

___

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Stuffing Material

[robert via CnC-List]

I have a 1" prop shaft, e.g. I assume a 1" stuffing box and used 3/16" 
flax when I repacked it several years ago.FYI


On 2017-10-25 9:11 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Eugene,
The size of the flax (stuffing) depends on the diameter of the prop 
shaft.what is the diameter of the shaft?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-10-24 1:51 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List wrote:
I noticed that my stuffing box has started leaking pretty badly and 
suspect that the flax has never been replaced. I tightened it up 
once, but think it's at it's end.


Does anyone know what size flax to use in the nut?

Thanks,

Gene Fodor
'Hawk' C 29-2


___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Serial number

[steve dewar via CnC-List]

Thank you everyone for your responses. I feel comfortable that my boat was 
started in late 84 and commissioned as 1985. Thanks.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I have the same issue on “Ronin”. 

I’m 99.99% certain that the stud is not attached to the keel. It certainly 
isn’t on my model when I removed my keel. Were it attached to the keel there 
would be a series of list posts advising owners on how to unhook it. In my 20 
years on this list I haven’t seen any advice on that. 

I think that you are going to find that like my stud, it was simply glassed 
into the stringer. Easy to do in the build process but obviously not 
advantageous over time, especially in a damp environment and constant cyclic 
loads. 

I have a set of hand drawings from a rig designer buddy on building a “U” 
shaped stainless steel bridge that can be simply attached to either side of the 
stringer with plain old S.S. lag bolts. This is most likely the way that I will 
go when I put the mast back in the boat.

Good luck with your repair.

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:11 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks John,
> 
> That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like this is not going to necessarily be 
> an easy fix. 
> Just so I make sure I understand what your saying. 
> The stud is believed to be attached directly to the keel.
> If that is true, then the shaft of the stud is probably 3+ inches through the 
> hull and into the keel.
> Possible fix would be to drill out the hole, tap the new hole and try to 
> thread a new stud in its place.
> Re seal the hole with epoxy and filler?
> If it's directly attached to the keel, would threading a new hole be strong 
> enough? How far down should I drill it out? 
> I don't have exact measurements but the stud itself looks to be almost 1/2" 
> thick. Where can I find something that large? I can only seem to find 
> lifeline studs so far.
> 
> I also can't seem to find any information on this kind of thing online 
> anywhere. Any suggestions on where to look?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> 
> On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 8:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Hi Kevin
> 
>  
> 
> Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is 
> money to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and 
> corroded the stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack 
> apart.  FWIW, we consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its 
> integrity as it prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of helping 
> to shape the mainsail.
> 
>  
> 
> Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded into 
> the keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to separate 
> the keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3 inches thick 
> at its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside and outside might 
> be in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next there in a week or so. 
>  In any event, it looks like a job best handled on the hard – remove the 
> remaining stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new stud.  Seal 
> appropriately.
> 
>  
> 
> Best
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34 (hull 464)
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List
> Cc: Kevin Paxton
> Subject: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud
> 
>  
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken this 
> past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat (~3-4 
> years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke sometime 
> in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down into the 
> hole and it seems to have rusted away. 
> 
>  
> 
> 1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard 
> rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or 
> if there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?
> 
> 2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?
> 
> 3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or am 
> I going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?
> 
>  
> 
> Here are some photos for reference.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks John,

That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like this is not going to necessarily
be an easy fix.
Just so I make sure I understand what your saying.

   - The stud is believed to be attached directly to the keel.
   - If that is true, then the shaft of the stud is probably 3+ inches
   through the hull and into the keel.
   - Possible fix would be to drill out the hole, tap the new hole and try
   to thread a new stud in its place.
   - Re seal the hole with epoxy and filler?

If it's directly attached to the keel, would threading a new hole be strong
enough? How far down should I drill it out?
I don't have exact measurements but the stud itself looks to be almost 1/2"
thick. Where can I find something that large? I can only seem to find
lifeline studs so far.

I also can't seem to find any information on this kind of thing online
anywhere. Any suggestions on where to look?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 8:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin
>
>
>
> Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is
> money to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and
> corroded the stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack
> apart.  FWIW, we consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its
> integrity as it prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of
> helping to shape the mainsail.
>
>
>
> Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded
> into the keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to
> separate the keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3
> inches thick at its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside
> and outside might be in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next
> there in a week or so.  In any event, it looks like a job best handled on
> the hard – remove the remaining stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new
> stud.  Seal appropriately.
>
>
>
> Best
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34 (hull 464)
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
> *To:* cnc-list Cnc-List
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton
> *Subject:* Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken
> this past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat
> (~3-4 years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke
> sometime in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down
> into the hole and it seems to have rusted away.
>
>
>
> 1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard
> rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or
> if there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?
>
> 2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?
>
> 3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or
> am I going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?
>
>
>
> Here are some photos for reference.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Kevin Paxton
>
> '82 34 #473
>
> Japhys Spirit
>
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Stuffing Material

[robert via CnC-List]

Eugene,
The size of the flax (stuffing) depends on the diameter of the prop 
shaft.what is the diameter of the shaft?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-10-24 1:51 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List wrote:
I noticed that my stuffing box has started leaking pretty badly and 
suspect that the flax has never been replaced. I tightened it up once, 
but think it's at it's end.


Does anyone know what size flax to use in the nut?

Thanks,

Gene Fodor
'Hawk' C 29-2


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!