Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2018, at 4:35 PM, john sandford  wrote:
> 
> Zephyrworks
> http://zephyrwerks.com/default.html
> I replaced the aluminum main and jib halyard sheaves 2 years ago on my LF38
> As I changed from wire/rope to MLX dyneema I didn’t want the wire groove to 
> (maybe) damage the new ones.
> They shipped new sheaves around in a week, and they fitted perfectly.
> 
> Highly recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: February-17-18 12:09 PM
> To: C&c Stus List
> Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?
> 
> Good day all.
> 
> Looking to replace windstar’s three masthead sheaves.  The existing sheaves 
> are the originals, aluminum with a very shallow wire groove in the centre of 
> the rope-radius groove.  I successfully re-bushed these a couple of years 
> ago, however I switched to all rope halyards last year and it appears the 
> main halyard is slightly fraying at the sheave.
> 
> Will my current sheave damage the halyard?  (The wire groove is very shallow 
> - hard to imagine it’s an issue)
> 
> Suggestions as to a source?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 

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Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[robert via CnC-List]

Marek:

Thank you for the reassurance I changed the packing myself (and with 
mentor ship from a knowledgeable club member in the cockpit)the 
packing is not compressed very much...in fact , when wraping the 
packing, when I first put on 3 wraps I couldn't get the compression nut 
on, too tight..so I took one off, compressed the 2 on the shaft and 
then backed everything off and then put on the third wrap and  barely 
compressed all 3.and two things.it is a rare occasion for me to 
motor more than 2 hours at a time and when I have, and two, checked the 
shaft and box with my hand for heat, there was none, not a hint of heat 
immediately after motoring for several hours.  So I am not really 
worried about a scored prop shaft and my stuffing box does not leak.

Why would I want to change this?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-02-18 3:17 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


The only reason for water dripping is to lubricate (and cool) the 
seal/shaft interface. However, the PTFE packing has low enough 
friction that you  don’t need to lubricate. Hence, no need for 
dripping water.


Btw. the main difference between the normal shaft seal (regardless of 
packing) and the dripless (e.g. PIY) is that in the former the seal is 
beaten the shaft and the packing box and in the latter it is between 
two faces of the seal (the shaft does not participate in this seal). 
Having said this, I don’t think your PTFE packing would score the 
shaft in any reasonable time. When it does you may have other reasons 
to replace the shaft, anyway.


Marek

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*robert via CnC-List

*Sent:* Saturday, February 17, 2018 10:04
*To:* Neil Andersen ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert 
*Subject:* Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

I used PTFE Tefelon Braided Ramie Packing .I repacked my stuffing 
box  6 years ago with itafter Spring launch I adjusted for approx. 
2 drops/drips per minutethen after running the engine the drips 
would stopI loosen and got the 2 drops per minute again...after 
the next use of the engine, the drips would stoploosen one more 
time, ran the engine and the drips would stop.


So I stopped looseningran the engine for 2 hours .got into the 
lazarette and put my hand on the stuffing box and the prop shaft 
looking for heatboth were cold so I left things the way they 
were.  The stuffing box does not leak/ drip water although I 
understand it should.  I may be in for a big expense some day for a 
new prop shaft but in the meantime, my bilge is dry except for what 
comes down inside the mast when it rains.  I can live with that, we 
all do.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The only reason for water dripping is to lubricate (and cool) the seal/shaft 
interface. However, the PTFE packing has low enough friction that you  don't 
need to lubricate. Hence, no need for dripping water.

Btw. the main difference between the normal shaft seal (regardless of packing) 
and the dripless (e.g. PIY) is that in the former the seal is beaten the shaft 
and the packing box and in the latter it is between two faces of the seal (the 
shaft does not participate in this seal). Having said this, I don't think your 
PTFE packing would score the shaft in any reasonable time. When it does you may 
have other reasons to replace the shaft, anyway.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 10:04
To: Neil Andersen ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

I used PTFE Tefelon Braided Ramie Packing .I repacked my stuffing box  6 
years ago with itafter Spring launch I adjusted for approx. 2 drops/drips 
per minutethen after running the engine the drips would stopI loosen 
and got the 2 drops per minute again...after the next use of the engine, the 
drips would stoploosen one more time, ran the engine and the drips would 
stop.

So I stopped looseningran the engine for 2 hours .got into the 
lazarette and put my hand on the stuffing box and the prop shaft looking for 
heatboth were cold so I left things the way they were.  The stuffing box 
does not leak/ drip water although I understand it should.  I may be in for a 
big expense some day for a new prop shaft but in the meantime, my bilge is dry 
except for what comes down inside the mast when it rains.  I can live with 
that, we all do.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2018-02-17 12:24 AM, Neil Andersen wrote:
What "quality product" have you found success with?

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List 
 on behalf 
of robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 11:10:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

I would not change to a dripless stuffing box when a much simpler and safer 
option is available.as David said here before, repack your existing box 
with a quality product and you are virtually drip freeI did mine 6 years 
ago and it still doesn't drip...and I have checked and there is no heat on the 
prop shaft, stuffing box, etc.  I never worry about a catastrophic failure a 
PSS dripless stuffing box  can endure.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On Feb 16, 2018, at 9:05 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I'm sold on the switch I 
just haven't figured out how I'm going to run the vent line yet. Any 
suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
through hull at the top of the transom.

Thanks,

Brien


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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Rodney is correct, of course.  But also consider that some C&C models come
with different gear ratios for the same boat.  Get the ratio off the
gearbox name plate before ordering a prop.  My PO didn't do that and I got
a boat with the wrong prop.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 10:06 AM, Rodney Meryweather via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The engine and gear ratio, together with the engine power, are critical
> for any propeller sizing.
> When choosing an engine &/or propeller for your boat, it is important to
> consider the effect of the gearbox ratio on the propeller. Most marine
> diesel engines have a reduction gearbox, which makes the shaft turn slower
> than the engine, at a speed more suitable for the propeller.
> The gear box ratio determines the rotation speed of the propeller in
> revolutions per minute (rpm):
>   Propeller speed (srpm) = Engine rated rpm ÷ Gearbox reduction
> ratio
>
> With an existing engine there were generally several different gear ratios
> available to choose from at the time of install depending on shaft angle.
> It is best that you get your actual ratio off the gearbox tag. It is
> generally stamped on the top or side of the gearbox expressed as a ratio or
> number (example: 2.64:1 or A–2.64).
>
> The best method to get the actual ratio is to use your cell phone camera &
> take a photo of the plate on the transmission (beats hanging upside down
> reading it with a mirror and a flash light).
>
> Before selecting a propeller type you should look at the advantages,
> features, benefits & differences in performance relative to your sailing
> style/boat use so that you can make an informed decision. I know there is a
> lot of information below but I want to make sure you choose the correct
> propeller to suit your sailing style/boat use.
>
> I personally am looking at the Variprop Feathering or Gori Folding
> The Variprofile feathering propeller is a unique feathering propeller and
> the first to incorporate the hi-tec GAWN/KAPLAN profile. The only
> feathering propeller with a shaped blade which is 7-11% more efficient than
> the std flat bladed feathering propeller. This profile has been used
> primarily for high performance power boat applications, but also for rudder
> design and in the aircraft industry.
>
> Normally associated with high-speed power boat and aircraft propeller
> blades the Gawn/Kaplan blade profile & slim hub delivers very low drag,
> excellent Hydro-dynamics while running extremely more quietly and
> efficiently under power than other propellers with the result that the
> VariProfile delivers speed normally associated with fixed propellers or the
> best folding propellers in both fwd. & reverse with its continuous
> independently variable adjustable external pitch control (patented).
> Forward and Reverse pitches can be changed independently in just seconds,
> even underwater.
>
> The Gori is a folding propeller with two(2) pitches in fwd & full 100%
> reverse thrust, no prop walk. The Gori does not auto-rotate/spin under sail
> as does a feathering propeller at higher speeds, or have one blade drop
> down and increase drag or not open when coming into the slip.
>
> The drag for the Gori 3-blade propellers is the lowest of any fixed,
> feathering or folding propellers (even less than any 2-blade) giving
> increased sailing speeds & less turbulence over the rudder, enabling you to
> point higher.  The unique folding design prevents seaweed etc from fouling
> on the propeller giving increased speed potential. You will see an increase
> in sailing speeds over your fixed 3-blade propeller. The drag reduction
> will amount to 0.95 + of a knot for a 36 footer.
>
> The blades of the Gori propeller are designed with both camber, curve &
> twist to them, which gives increased efficiency (thrust) throughout the rpm
> range, which will always give you better motoring performance
> (speed/thrust), especially in heavy seas, or when motor sailing with the
> "Overdrive" Function.
> The Gori 3-blade "Overdrive" function, by increasing the blade pitch
> angle, gives increased thrust and speed - at the same rpm or when motoring
> sailing, or the same boat speed at much lower rpms.  The result is less
> engine noise, less vibration, increased fuel economy & therefore a greater
> cruising range.
> The Gori 3-blade propeller is the only propeller that will give you
> exactly the same performance in reverse as in forward due to the unique
> blade folding action of presenting the identical leading edge in reverse as
> in forward - resulting in no 'prop walk'. See
> http://ab-marine.com/folding/gori/ & http://gori-propeller.com/
>
> Rodney Meryweather
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution -- 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We use one of these on the wind cable to facilitate the removal of the mast 
instead of the white box.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=680929

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2018 12:43:54 PM
To: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

Paul — Ken is absolutely correct (as usual…) about the white wind vane cable 
connection box.  As far as other installation tips, you can daisy-chain the 
instruments per the manual to share data across them.  You will need to provide 
a power connection on the SeaTalkNG bus to power them; and you will need to 
properly terminate the bus in order for it to work reliably.  If you’re tying 
in with an autopilot or MFD, that will make the SeaTalkNG bus more complicated.

Contact me if you need more info.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:11 AM, Ken Heaton 
mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The small white junction box is if you need to cut the wire at the base of the 
mast to allow the mast to be removed from the boat without pulling the wind 
Sensor cable all the way back to the instrument.  You don't need to install the 
white box right away, you could leave a couple of loops in the cable near the 
mast base and run the wire to the wind instrument.  You could cut the cable and 
install the junction box later if you need to pull the mast.  When you do, you 
just bare the wires and insert into the little terminals and tighten the screws.

There should be small spade connectors included in the kit to crimp onto the 
cable at the back of the instrument.

Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — Ken is absolutely correct (as usual…) about the white wind vane cable 
connection box.  As far as other installation tips, you can daisy-chain the 
instruments per the manual to share data across them.  You will need to provide 
a power connection on the SeaTalkNG bus to power them; and you will need to 
properly terminate the bus in order for it to work reliably.  If you’re tying 
in with an autopilot or MFD, that will make the SeaTalkNG bus more complicated.

Contact me if you need more info.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:11 AM, Ken Heaton  > wrote:
> 
> The small white junction box is if you need to cut the wire at the base of 
> the mast to allow the mast to be removed from the boat without pulling the 
> wind Sensor cable all the way back to the instrument.  You don't need to 
> install the white box right away, you could leave a couple of loops in the 
> cable near the mast base and run the wire to the wind instrument.  You could 
> cut the cable and install the junction box later if you need to pull the 
> mast.  When you do, you just bare the wires and insert into the little 
> terminals and tighten the screws.
> 
> There should be small spade connectors included in the kit to crimp onto the 
> cable at the back of the instrument.
> 
> Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller for the CnC 35 mk2

[Jim via CnC-List]

To bad they changed in on the Mk II, it has to be due to the different rudder 
on the Mk II.  
It works well on my 35 Mk I (I tested it to make sure it worked) but as you 
noted it is in front of the steering column on the Mk I.

On the 29 Mk II (had one of those too) it is aft of the pedestal and while a 
bit awkward it does work.

Good luck.  Cheers, James

- Original Message -
From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "dwight veinot" 
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2018 11:14:17 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller for the CnC 35 mk2

I have a 1974 C&C 35 MKII that came with the standard C&C emergency
tiller which is almost useless because the rudder shaft exits the
cockpit sole aft of the steering pedestal resulting in very little
range of motion with the tiller handle. It would be almost impossible
to tack with that emergency tiller.  Very different arrangement than
on the 35 MKi where it looks to me like the tiller can actually be
used to drive the boat as a standard tiller steered boat. The range of
motion can be increased a bit by removing the wheel on the 35 MKII if
you need to use the emergency tiller.  Consider this if you design one
to have built, not just the fitting to the rudder stock.  A straight
up emergency tiller with a small wheel fitted to the top and in the
same plain as the cockpit sole may work a lot better than a long
tiller handle.
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Tue, Feb 6, 2018 at 7:55 PM, Jeremy Johnston via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Good evening everyone,
>
> I'm new to email distribution lists so I hope I'm doing this right. I just
> bought a CnC 35 mk2! She's a '74 and needs work but her bones look good to
> me. The one thing missing is the emergency tiller.
>
> Looking at the square-ish attachment on the cockpit sole it seems like it
> would be easy for a machine shop to fab a piece to fit other that which I
> would then attach to a wooden or metal tiller arm.
>
> Does anyone know if these are already available out there? If not, any tips
> for making one? The boat is an 11hr drive from me and I didn't think to
> measure that square piece it fits on. Do any schematics around refer to it's
> size so I can work with a machine shop on this?
>
> Thanks so much, looking forward to joining the family !
>
> Jeremy
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller for the CnC 35 mk2

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have a 1974 C&C 35 MKII that came with the standard C&C emergency
tiller which is almost useless because the rudder shaft exits the
cockpit sole aft of the steering pedestal resulting in very little
range of motion with the tiller handle. It would be almost impossible
to tack with that emergency tiller.  Very different arrangement than
on the 35 MKi where it looks to me like the tiller can actually be
used to drive the boat as a standard tiller steered boat. The range of
motion can be increased a bit by removing the wheel on the 35 MKII if
you need to use the emergency tiller.  Consider this if you design one
to have built, not just the fitting to the rudder stock.  A straight
up emergency tiller with a small wheel fitted to the top and in the
same plain as the cockpit sole may work a lot better than a long
tiller handle.
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Tue, Feb 6, 2018 at 7:55 PM, Jeremy Johnston via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Good evening everyone,
>
> I'm new to email distribution lists so I hope I'm doing this right. I just
> bought a CnC 35 mk2! She's a '74 and needs work but her bones look good to
> me. The one thing missing is the emergency tiller.
>
> Looking at the square-ish attachment on the cockpit sole it seems like it
> would be easy for a machine shop to fab a piece to fit other that which I
> would then attach to a wooden or metal tiller arm.
>
> Does anyone know if these are already available out there? If not, any tips
> for making one? The boat is an 11hr drive from me and I didn't think to
> measure that square piece it fits on. Do any schematics around refer to it's
> size so I can work with a machine shop on this?
>
> Thanks so much, looking forward to joining the family !
>
> Jeremy
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses > Diesel Fill Hose

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Replace your fuel fill hose.  I hadn't thought about doing that until one
day when I was working in a locker, brushed up against the fuel fill hose
and noticed cracks.  I replaced it immediately, and then went about
replacing all of my hoses.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iii Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 4:30 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there a method to test the condition of a diesel fill hose?  Something
> similar to wrapping a warm wet rag around an old sanitation hose?  As
> diesel is not as volatile as gas would  guess hoses carrying diesel would
> last longer… ??  And it is not like the fuel was sitting in the hose as the
> route from deck fill to tank is nearly vertical.
>
>
>
> AFAIK - The diesel fill hose on my boat is original.  The exterior “looks”
> old but there are no cracks or any surface damage visible.  I have to
> replace the deck fill fitting this spring, but would rather not play with
> the fill hose to the tank if I do not have to.  Its path behind cabinetry
> makes it a royal PITA to access, and appears to require taking too much of
> the cabinetry apart.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:42 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses
>
>
>
> Hear!  Hear!  High on my list!  In the 1st 4 months I had Touche' I
> replaced all the thru hull hoses, the alcohol stove hose, and all the
> engine hoses.  The two I didn't think about were the fuel fill hose and
> shaft log hose.  I was painfully reminded of the former after filling the
> tank one day and smelling gasoline throughout the boat.  The inner and
> outer layers of the old hose had separated allowing gasoline to find its
> way between the layers.  The vapors seeped out of the outer layer.
> Replaced it promptly.
>
>
>
> I replaced the shaft log hose during the diesel re-power process a couple
> years later.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
> box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
> worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
> drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
> rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
> hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
> hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.
>
>
>
> Len Mitchell
>
> SV *Crazy Legs*
>
> 1989 37 +
>
> Midland On
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller for the CnC 35 mk2

[John Rand via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Did you get this resolved?  I actually have one I'm not using (as I
switched to tiller).

John

On Tue, Feb 6, 2018 at 6:55 PM, Jeremy Johnston via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good evening everyone,
>
> I'm new to email distribution lists so I hope I'm doing this right. I just
> bought a CnC 35 mk2! She's a '74 and needs work but her bones look good to
> me. The one thing missing is the emergency tiller.
>
> Looking at the square-ish attachment on the cockpit sole it seems like it
> would be easy for a machine shop to fab a piece to fit other that which I
> would then attach to a wooden or metal tiller arm.
>
> Does anyone know if these are already available out there? If not, any
> tips for making one? The boat is an 11hr drive from me and I didn't think
> to measure that square piece it fits on. Do any schematics around refer to
> it's size so I can work with a machine shop on this?
>
> Thanks so much, looking forward to joining the family !
>
> Jeremy
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Rodney Meryweather via CnC-List]

The engine and gear ratio, together with the engine power, are critical for any 
propeller sizing.
When choosing an engine &/or propeller for your boat, it is important to 
consider the effect of the gearbox ratio on the propeller. Most marine diesel 
engines have a reduction gearbox, which makes the shaft turn slower than the 
engine, at a speed more suitable for the propeller.  
The gear box ratio determines the rotation speed of the propeller in 
revolutions per minute (rpm):
  Propeller speed (srpm) = Engine rated rpm ÷ Gearbox reduction ratio
 
With an existing engine there were generally several different gear ratios 
available to choose from at the time of install depending on shaft angle.  It 
is best that you get your actual ratio off the gearbox tag. It is generally 
stamped on the top or side of the gearbox expressed as a ratio or number 
(example: 2.64:1 or A–2.64).
 
The best method to get the actual ratio is to use your cell phone camera & take 
a photo of the plate on the transmission (beats hanging upside down reading it 
with a mirror and a flash light).

Before selecting a propeller type you should look at the advantages, features, 
benefits & differences in performance relative to your sailing style/boat use 
so that you can make an informed decision. I know there is a lot of information 
below but I want to make sure you choose the correct propeller to suit your 
sailing style/boat use.

I personally am looking at the Variprop Feathering or Gori Folding 
The Variprofile feathering propeller is a unique feathering propeller and the 
first to incorporate the hi-tec GAWN/KAPLAN profile. The only feathering 
propeller with a shaped blade which is 7-11% more efficient than the std flat 
bladed feathering propeller. This profile has been used primarily for high 
performance power boat applications, but also for rudder design and in the 
aircraft industry. 
 
Normally associated with high-speed power boat and aircraft propeller blades 
the Gawn/Kaplan blade profile & slim hub delivers very low drag, excellent 
Hydro-dynamics while running extremely more quietly and efficiently under power 
than other propellers with the result that the VariProfile delivers speed 
normally associated with fixed propellers or the best folding propellers in 
both fwd. & reverse with its continuous independently variable adjustable 
external pitch control (patented). Forward and Reverse pitches can be changed 
independently in just seconds, even underwater.

The Gori is a folding propeller with two(2) pitches in fwd & full 100% reverse 
thrust, no prop walk. The Gori does not auto-rotate/spin under sail as does a 
feathering propeller at higher speeds, or have one blade drop down and increase 
drag or not open when coming into the slip.
 
The drag for the Gori 3-blade propellers is the lowest of any fixed, feathering 
or folding propellers (even less than any 2-blade) giving increased sailing 
speeds & less turbulence over the rudder, enabling you to point higher.  The 
unique folding design prevents seaweed etc from fouling on the propeller giving 
increased speed potential. You will see an increase in sailing speeds over your 
fixed 3-blade propeller. The drag reduction will amount to 0.95 + of a knot for 
a 36 footer. 

The blades of the Gori propeller are designed with both camber, curve & twist 
to them, which gives increased efficiency (thrust) throughout the rpm range, 
which will always give you better motoring performance (speed/thrust), 
especially in heavy seas, or when motor sailing with the "Overdrive" Function. 
The Gori 3-blade "Overdrive" function, by increasing the blade pitch angle, 
gives increased thrust and speed - at the same rpm or when motoring sailing, or 
the same boat speed at much lower rpms.  The result is less engine noise, less 
vibration, increased fuel economy & therefore a greater cruising range. 
The Gori 3-blade propeller is the only propeller that will give you exactly the 
same performance in reverse as in forward due to the unique blade folding 
action of presenting the identical leading edge in reverse as in forward - 
resulting in no 'prop walk'. See http://ab-marine.com/folding/gori/ & 
http://gori-propeller.com/

Rodney Meryweather


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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Portholes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Helps to lube the spline with soapy water.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a total of 6 of the old style aluminum frame windows on my two
> boat, so I made sure I saved the “recipe” for resealing the portlights for
> future reference.
>
>
>
> Rule 1: never touch the aluminum frame, you will create a leak
>
>
>
> Between the frame and the window you will need a seal. In 2016 the list
> recommended the following:
>
> Frost King V25BK EPDM weatherstripping
>
> M-D Building Products 01025 D Profile Auto and Marine Weatherstripping
>
> The MD Building Products stuff is available at Home Depot or Lowes, and a
> 25 foot long box is pretty cheap – maybe $10.
>
>
>
> For the window panels I went to a local shop that repairs storm doors and
> had them use an old window panel as s template to make new windows. I used
> ¼” cast plexi in a fairly dark color (bronze?) because they had several
> sheets in stock already and would not need to order a full sheet for a
> darker color.
>
>
>
> The window goes on top of the weatherstripping seal, and is held in place
> by a rubber strip called a spline. Spline material is available at any
> glass shop that fixes storm doors and/or storm windows. I took a 6” snippet
> of old spline to a local shop and bought 10 or 12 feet for less than a
> dollar a foot last time I needed some. I also found it on EBay but would
> have needed to buy a 100 foot roll. Cheap but who need a 3 lifetime supply
> of window spline?
>
>
>
> When installing the seal and the spline, start at the top center of the
> frame with a smooth square cut end. Go around the frame making sure you get
> into the corners and making sure you do not stretch the material. I use a
> tongue depresser/popsickle stick to push the spline into the slot between
> plexi and frame – pushing “back” in the direction you are coming from to
> help ensure not stretching the material. When you get back to the top
> center of the frame make a tight joint and you should never have a leak. As
> the spline ages and oxidizes it will shrink and eventually pull out  of the
> corners, and you can just replace the spline.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The small white junction box is if you need to cut the wire at the base of
the mast to allow the mast to be removed from the boat without pulling the
wind Sensor cable all the way back to the instrument.  You don't need to
install the white box right away, you could leave a couple of loops in the
cable near the mast base and run the wire to the wind instrument.  You
could cut the cable and install the junction box later if you need to pull
the mast.  When you do, you just bare the wires and insert into the little
terminals and tighten the screws.

There should be small spade connectors included in the kit to crimp onto
the cable at the back of the instrument.

Ken H.

On 18 February 2018 at 09:27, Paul via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Fred,
> Right now am just installing the wind, speed and depth.
> The wind vane package has a small white connections box with a connector
> bar assuming this is for the mast cable to instrument connections. Are
> there special connectors to crimp onto each lead in the cable or do you
> just strip and insert then tighten down the screw?  You can see a small
> flat plate that each screw pushes down as part on the connection mechanism.
> There isn't any documentation regarding wind vane cabling in the i60 or
> wind vane boxes other than spade connections to the back of the i60.
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul Saxton
> Boomerang
> C&C 29 Mk 1
> Toronto, ON
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 17, 2018, at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street 
> wrote:
>
> Paul - the installation is fairly straightforward, and the instructions in
> the manuals are pretty good; what questions in particular do you have?  As
> Mike mentioned, you may need to get some SeaTalkNG network components,
> depending on how you need to network things.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 16, 2018, at 7:06 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul
>
> When we installed the i50/i60 in 2014 we had to buy some networking
> components to connect them properly for TWS etc...  These networking pieces
> did not come in the system pack with our wind/speed/depth instruments.
>
> Likely Fred can explain what is needed and why.  I am still surprised that
> everything needed was not included in the pack
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Paul via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 8:30 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Paul
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?
>
> Hello,
> Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system
> pack. I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system.
> Thanks
>
> Paul Saxton
> Boomerang
> C&C 29 Mk 1
> Toronto, ON
>
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,
Right now am just installing the wind, speed and depth.
The wind vane package has a small white connections box with a connector bar 
assuming this is for the mast cable to instrument connections. Are there 
special connectors to crimp onto each lead in the cable or do you just strip 
and insert then tighten down the screw?  You can see a small flat plate that 
each screw pushes down as part on the connection mechanism. There isn't any 
documentation regarding wind vane cabling in the i60 or wind vane boxes other 
than spade connections to the back of the i60. 

Thanks 

Paul Saxton
Boomerang
C&C 29 Mk 1
Toronto, ON

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2018, at 10:56 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Paul - the installation is fairly straightforward, and the instructions in 
> the manuals are pretty good; what questions in particular do you have?  As 
> Mike mentioned, you may need to get some SeaTalkNG network components, 
> depending on how you need to network things.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Feb 16, 2018, at 7:06 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Paul
>> 
>> When we installed the i50/i60 in 2014 we had to buy some networking 
>> components to connect them properly for TWS etc...  These networking pieces 
>> did not come in the system pack with our wind/speed/depth instruments.
>> 
>> Likely Fred can explain what is needed and why.  I am still surprised that 
>> everything needed was not included in the pack
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 8:30 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Paul
>> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?
>> 
>> Hello,
>> Does anyone have tips or suggestions on installation of an i50/i60 system 
>> pack. I'm replacing a DataMarine Link 5000 system. 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Paul Saxton
>> Boomerang
>> C&C 29 Mk 1
>> Toronto, ON
> 
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses > Diesel Fill Hose

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Is there a method to test the condition of a diesel fill hose?  Something 
similar to wrapping a warm wet rag around an old sanitation hose?  As diesel is 
not as volatile as gas would  guess hoses carrying diesel would last longer… ?? 
 And it is not like the fuel was sitting in the hose as the route from deck 
fill to tank is nearly vertical.  

 

AFAIK - The diesel fill hose on my boat is original.  The exterior “looks” old 
but there are no cracks or any surface damage visible.  I have to replace the 
deck fill fitting this spring, but would rather not play with the fill hose to 
the tank if I do not have to.  Its path behind cabinetry makes it a royal PITA 
to access, and appears to require taking too much of the cabinetry apart.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:42 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses

 

Hear!  Hear!  High on my list!  In the 1st 4 months I had Touche' I replaced 
all the thru hull hoses, the alcohol stove hose, and all the engine hoses.  The 
two I didn't think about were the fuel fill hose and shaft log hose.  I was 
painfully reminded of the former after filling the tank one day and smelling 
gasoline throughout the boat.  The inner and outer layers of the old hose had 
separated allowing gasoline to find its way between the layers.  The vapors 
seeped out of the outer layer.  Replaced it promptly.  

 

I replaced the shaft log hose during the diesel re-power process a couple years 
later.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

 

BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing box 
hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5 worth of 
old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has 3 sink drains, 2 sea 
water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old rubber poo hose and 
fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber hose somewhere! Check 
yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses and I wasn’t 
comfortable leaving it that way. 

 

Len Mitchell 

SV Crazy Legs

1989 37 +

Midland On

 

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