Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Pics please.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Nov 5, 2018, at 7:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 17:57:25 -0500
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: michaelfamira...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Well, the rudder is off.  I wasn't easy, but not terrible either.  3 of the
> 4 3/8" bolts that hold the radial wheel in place came out with a lot of
> heat and patience.  The fourth broke.  Fortunately, it broke at the
> interface between the two halves of the wheel, so I could easily get the
> wheel off.  Once off I was able to drill out and re-tap the threads as good
> as new.  Now to get the bearings out and make new ones.  More to come.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
___

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My version of this is to use two ascenders on a tight line, one with two 
foot loops attached, and the other attached to a bosun's chair. I also 
have a halyard attached directly to the bosun's chair.  While my wife 
keeps tension on the halyard, I alternately step up using one hand and 
two feet, then slide the other ascender w/chair up, and then back to the 
foot loops, and repeat.  That way I do most of the climbing work but 
have the comfort of the chair, with the safety of the second halyard.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/5/2018 10:57 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , 
and a self belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I 
can get up my 37/40 fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand 
in the loops to do work on equipment at the top.


S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon


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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

A local rigger made a halyard for me, and at the tail end running back 
to the cockpit he removed the core (3/8" Sta-set) before he spliced an 
eye in it.  The purpose was to allow me to use a messenger line and have 
it all fit through the sheave at the masthead.  That way I can remove 
the halyard for the winter much more easily.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/5/2018 6:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Feeding halyards through the clutches is easier since I downsized the 
lines.  When I installed the clutches, I was using 7/16 halyards.  Now 
I use 3/8 VPC which is smaller and slicker.  I have Lewmar D2 
clutches.  They fit up to 9/16 " line.  I use a loop of parachute cord 
or leech line as a messenger to pull the halyard through.


I forgot to add to my previous post that once line has been loaded, it 
is very difficult to add an eye splice.  If you don't add the eye 
splice at purchase, you need to be conscious of not loading the free 
end if you plan to add an eye.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 4:56 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Dennis,

I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question. 
If your halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them
through the clutches?

Just curious,
Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



*From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is
EXACTLY why I buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets). 
Damage to running rigging is more than likely going to happen near
an end.  If you bought extra line, all you need do is to cut off
the damaged part and end for end the line.

I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For
Touche's sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and
the ends are then interchangeable.

For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets
a "D" bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second
version must use a screw pin snap shackle.

In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.

I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact
length needed. He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once
over the years.

Dennis C.
___

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Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , and a
self belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I can get up
my 37/40 fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand in the loops to
do work on equipment at the top.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
___

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I use a retired (but still in decent shape) Sta-set halyard as my static line – 
the biggest diameter I can fit into the ATN hardware.  It was probably rated 
(new) at 6,000 – 8,000 pounds tensile strength – I weigh about 175.  I raise 
that line to the masthead using a wire genny halyard.  I tape the genny halyard 
snap shackle closed, and I tie the static line to the snap shackle with a 
bowline.  Before I go up, I put the line on a winch and tighten it up 
(significantly).  If the line is not taut, climbing is much more difficult.  
I’ve followed this same procedure at least a couple dozen times and have not 
had any issues.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 3:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

I use the ATN occasionally, and as someone mentioned, you really do need the 
pre-stressed dedicated ascending line. I think he does try to sell you one with 
the package, but I thought, “that is just an overpriced line’, like a typical 
cheap-ass sailor. Well, when I first went up my Stay-Set, for every 36” I went 
up, I came back down 18. Kind of like motoring into a strong tide.  I brought 
it out to work and tied one end to a post, and the other to a Hyster and 
stretched the crap out of it and let it sit like that for a day in the sun.  
Huge Improvement!

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

 

 

I'll second the ATN mast climber. It works well enough once you get the hang of 
it but unless you are fairly athletic, be prepared to make rest stops. It is 
more of an upper body workout than it appears in the video. 

 

Steve Thomas 

 

 "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  wrote: 

If you plan to routinely climb solo, you may want to invest in an ATN mast 
climbing bosun’s chair.

 

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 4:35 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: John Irvin 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

 

That boat - easier to take the mast down.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

 

 

___

 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Keep us posted Gary.  I'm quite interested in how this project progresses
from here.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018, 5:58 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Well, the rudder is off.  I wasn't easy, but not terrible either.  3 of
> the 4 3/8" bolts that hold the radial wheel in place came out with a lot of
> heat and patience.  The fourth broke.  Fortunately, it broke at the
> interface between the two halves of the wheel, so I could easily get the
> wheel off.  Once off I was able to drill out and re-tap the threads as good
> as new.  Now to get the bearings out and make new ones.  More to come.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 9:10 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Gary, chances are the stainless bolts are “welded” to the
>> aluminum due to galvanic corrosion. This was the case for my quadrant, two
>> bolts came out with a lot of  gentle persuasion, but the other two snapped
>> off and had to be carefully drilled out of the aluminum. Maybe Josh’s
>> quadrant was previously removed or maybe he is not in salt water? Once I
>> got the holes drilled out, I drilled them straight through and bolted
>> through with longer bolts and nylon lock nuts. Also used tef-gel to prevent
>> further corrosion. The rudder weighs at least 100lbs. If your rudder post
>>  is like mine, there is a ½” threaded hole in the top; I threaded in a long
>> ½” rod, ran it through a piece of hardwood, installed washers and nuts to
>> lower and later raise the rudder into place.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> C  Lovely Cruise
>>
>> SMSC
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Feeding halyards through the clutches is easier since I downsized the
lines.  When I installed the clutches, I was using 7/16 halyards.  Now I
use 3/8 VPC which is smaller and slicker.  I have Lewmar D2 clutches.  They
fit up to 9/16 " line.  I use a loop of parachute cord or leech line as a
messenger to pull the halyard through.

I forgot to add to my previous post that once line has been loaded, it is
very difficult to add an eye splice.  If you don't add the eye splice at
purchase, you need to be conscious of not loading the free end if you plan
to add an eye.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 4:56 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
>
> I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question.  If your
> halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the
> clutches?
>
> Just curious,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>
> Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I
> buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is
> more than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line,
> all you need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.
>
> I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's
> sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then
> interchangeable.
>
> For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D"
> bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must
> use a screw pin snap shackle.
>
> In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.
>
> I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length
> needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.
>
> Dennis C.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Well, the rudder is off.  I wasn't easy, but not terrible either.  3 of the
4 3/8" bolts that hold the radial wheel in place came out with a lot of
heat and patience.  The fourth broke.  Fortunately, it broke at the
interface between the two halves of the wheel, so I could easily get the
wheel off.  Once off I was able to drill out and re-tap the threads as good
as new.  Now to get the bearings out and make new ones.  More to come.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 9:10 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I agree with Gary, chances are the stainless bolts are “welded” to the
> aluminum due to galvanic corrosion. This was the case for my quadrant, two
> bolts came out with a lot of  gentle persuasion, but the other two snapped
> off and had to be carefully drilled out of the aluminum. Maybe Josh’s
> quadrant was previously removed or maybe he is not in salt water? Once I
> got the holes drilled out, I drilled them straight through and bolted
> through with longer bolts and nylon lock nuts. Also used tef-gel to prevent
> further corrosion. The rudder weighs at least 100lbs. If your rudder post
>  is like mine, there is a ½” threaded hole in the top; I threaded in a long
> ½” rod, ran it through a piece of hardwood, installed washers and nuts to
> lower and later raise the rudder into place.
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C  Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question.  If your 
halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the clutches?  

Just curious,  Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+ "Astralis"  
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
   
Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I buy 
extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is more 
than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line, all you 
need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.  
I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's 
sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then 
interchangeable.
For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D" bail 
snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must use a screw 
pin snap shackle.  
In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.
I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length 
needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.
Dennis C.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



   ___

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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I
buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is
more than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line,
all you need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.

I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's
sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then
interchangeable.

For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D"
bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must
use a screw pin snap shackle.

In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.

I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length
needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.

Dennis C.
___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List]

To he who wishes to climb the mast - get a Boson's chair and a friend, better 
than going splat on the deck, allows you to work with confidence.___

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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Once you figure out the problem, add a cover to the last couple feet of
halyard.

http://www.apsltd.com/line/sailboat-line-rope-cover-only.html

Joel

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 3:33 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I do have a halyard restrainer. And I don’t (I think I don’t) have a
> problem with halyards wearing out on that edge. But I don’t like the look
> of that end of the extrusion that looks like a thumb that you wrapped in
> bandages after a bad cut. The good thing is that I see it only twice a year
> (when the mast goes down and when it goes up) (;-).
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 13:03
> *To:* CnClist
> *Cc:* Dennis C.
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>
> Marek,
>
> The split cap fits a different profile of extrusion.
>
> There aren't many good options here.  I replace the vinyl trim cap every
> 2-3 years and tape it heavily.  It always disappears.
>
> I've considered a regular old PVC plumbing cap with a short piece of PVC
> pipe.  They would have to be split to slide them over the fore stay.  It
> would rattle around up there but might stay on for years.  You could put
> the pipe piece and cap on separately then glue them together so the cut
> slot doesn't line up.
>
> The best option is to install halyard restrainers to keep the halyards
> away from the extrusion.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Interior

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good advice I did exactly that. If the foam is from build new foam is a
definite plus but it aint cheap

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 11:31 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my 34, I went to a local discount fabric shop for the fabric, then gave
> the fabric to a local cushion shop to make the replacements (they arranged
> to get replacement foam).  This particular cushion shop does boat
> cushions,
> RV stuff, patio furniture cushions, etc.  I gave them the old cushions as
> patterns and they took it from there.  The replacements were great.  It
> should be an easy job for any upholstery shop.
>
> A word of caution: on my current boat, I picked out new fabric and went
> the
> same local shop to make replacement cushions.  This time I did not need
> new
> foam (the old stuff looked okay), and I did not look to see that the old
> cushions fit correctly.  Because they did not fit correctly (like 3" gaps
> at
> bulkheads -- thank you, PO), the replacements also did not fit correctly.
> If you use your existing cushions as patterns, make sure they fit
> correctly.
> If not, have the cushion shop visit the boat to take measurements.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Pat via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 9:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Pat
> Subject: Stus-List Interior
>
> Hello,
>
> New owner here of a C 34 with my husband Rob, in Dartmouth,
> Massachusetts.
>
>
> Does anyone have suggestions for replacing and/or recovering the interior
> cushions?  Where to get it done, prices, fabric preferences, color
> preferences, any Photos?  Not do it yourself, thank you.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Patricia Ball
> patmb...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I use the ATN occasionally, and as someone mentioned, you really do need the 
pre-stressed dedicated ascending line. I think he does try to sell you one with 
the package, but I thought, “that is just an overpriced line’, like a typical 
cheap-ass sailor. Well, when I first went up my Stay-Set, for every 36” I went 
up, I came back down 18. Kind of like motoring into a strong tide.  I brought 
it out to work and tied one end to a post, and the other to a Hyster and 
stretched the crap out of it and let it sit like that for a day in the sun.  
Huge Improvement!

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

 

 

 I'll second the ATN mast climber. It works well enough once you get the hang 
of it but unless you are fairly athletic, be prepared to make rest stops. It is 
more of an upper body workout than it appears in the video. 

 

Steve Thomas 

 

 "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  wrote: 

If you plan to routinely climb solo, you may want to invest in an ATN mast 
climbing bosun’s chair.

 

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 4:35 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: John Irvin 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

 

That boat - easier to take the mast down.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

 

 

___

 

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dennis,

I do have a halyard restrainer. And I don’t (I think I don’t) have a problem 
with halyards wearing out on that edge. But I don’t like the look of that end 
of the extrusion that looks like a thumb that you wrapped in bandages after a 
bad cut. The good thing is that I see it only twice a year (when the mast goes 
down and when it goes up) (;-).

thanks

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 13:03
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Marek,

The split cap fits a different profile of extrusion.

There aren't many good options here.  I replace the vinyl trim cap every 2-3 
years and tape it heavily.  It always disappears.

I've considered a regular old PVC plumbing cap with a short piece of PVC pipe.  
They would have to be split to slide them over the fore stay.  It would rattle 
around up there but might stay on for years.  You could put the pipe piece and 
cap on separately then glue them together so the cut slot doesn't line up.

The best option is to install halyard restrainers to keep the halyards away 
from the extrusion.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

Yup...found sound crude means of doing so.   Any more refined ways without 
buying an expensive instrument specifically for that?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Miles via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Miles
Subject: Stus-List Fan Belts...

Be sure the pulleys are perfectly aligned.
Misalignment can cause belts to wear rapidly.

Be safe,
David Miles
C 30MK2 Impulse



On November 5, 2018 10:43:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

I don’t know what you mean by

 unless 
you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that, then no.



Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine at 
http://vbeltsupply.com/









Regards,



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
To: John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...

Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to day 
usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?

Thanks in advance.

>From my Android





From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)



Get the jib out. Sail.

All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log














On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year)  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.



Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.



Thanks in advance.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I fixed my belt wear by shimming the alternator pulley out 1/8". Now,
instead of a belt every week/month I'm getting a couple of years per belt.
Those pulleys have to be perfectly aligned with that load on a single belt.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Mon, 5 Nov 2018 at 11:00, David Miles via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Be sure the pulleys are perfectly aligned.
> Misalignment can cause belts to wear rapidly.
>
> Be safe,
> David Miles
> C 30MK2 Impulse
>
>
> On November 5, 2018 10:43:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don’t know what you mean by
>>
>> 
>> unless you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that,
>> then no.
>>
>>
>>
>> Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine
>> at http://vbeltsupply.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
>> via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
>> *To:* John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
>> *Cc:* David
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...
>>
>>
>>
>> Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft
>> stateroom...
>>
>> Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day
>> to day usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> From my Android
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Edd Schillay 
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
>> *To:* John via CnC-List
>> *Cc:* David
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...
>>
>>
>>
>> Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)
>>
>>
>>
>> Get the jib out. Sail.
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Starship Enterprise
>>
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>
>> City Island, NY
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x
>> year)  Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit
>> kit.  Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option
>> is buying a better quality belt for the QM series.
>>
>>
>>
>> Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same
>> configuration.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>>
>> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>>
>> *(401) 419-4650 <(401)%20419-4650> *
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I had a 3/8” belt originally and went to ½” with an 80amp alt upgrade.  It
fits all pulleys on my 3HMF.   That helped.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 8:20 AM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Stus-List Fan Belts...

 

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.  

 

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same
configuration.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 154, Issue 32

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

Folks I received an email about a C+ being parted out but haven’t been
able to get in contact  with owner.  Anyone know anything about this boat
and how to get in touch w owner?

STEPHEN Thorne
770.722.2848
34+ DejaVu

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 1:43 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Fan belts (David)
>2. Re:  abrasion on halyard (Marek Dziedzic)
>3. Re:  abrasion on halyard (Dennis C.)
>4. Re:  Fan belts (ed vanderkruk)
>5. Re:  Fan Belts... (Bill Coleman)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 17:07:27 +
> From: David 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan belts
> Message-ID:
> <
> bn6pr1601mb1316042c89550794a3bb455cda...@bn6pr1601mb1316.namprd16.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Duralast.  Probably crap.  Trying to find the saw tooth version of same
> dimensions.  Which brand are you using?
>
>
> David F. Risch, J. D.
>
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
>
> (401) 419-4650
>
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Len Mitchell
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
> To: CNC List
> Cc: Len Mitchell
> Subject: Stus-List Fan belts
>
> David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as
> you but changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last
> at least twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20181105/463494bf/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 17:22:43 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
> Message-ID:
> <
> sn6pr11mb2941e70087c64e5a82cc61aece...@sn6pr11mb2941.namprd11.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Dennis,
>
> I have a Mk III (00AL) and have this problem (of sliding cap). It never
> stays on the top of the extrusion.
>
> Is there a way of using the split cap you mentioned on this furler or am I
> forever going to apply copious amounts of rigging tape to the top of the
> extrusion?
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 11:54
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>
> Depends on which furler you have.  If you have a Harken MKIII, the trim
> caps are notorious for "disappearing".  It is just a vinyl cap which slides
> over the top of the extrusion (Harken #870).  Later Harken furlers use a
> split insert which goes around the fore stay into the extrusion.
>
> Some riggers bend the "ears" of the extrusion inward after installation.
> Then they wrap electrical or rigging tape around the top of the extrusion
> annually.  I replace the trim cap on Touche' every so often and wrap it
> heavily with tape.  To do that on an existing furler, I have to cut the
> trim cap to slide it over the fore stay.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20181105/51fd9c6c/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 12:02:51 -0600
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
> Message-ID:
>  t3dnlk4auw4q8ssn257wx8shh...@mail.gmail.com&

Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David Miles via CnC-List]

Be sure the pulleys are perfectly aligned.
Misalignment can cause belts to wear rapidly.

Be safe,
David Miles
C 30MK2 Impulse


On November 5, 2018 10:43:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I don’t know what you mean by

 
unless you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that, 
then no.




Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine at 
http://vbeltsupply.com/










Regards,



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
To: John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...


Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to 
day usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?


Thanks in advance.

From my Android



From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...



Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)



Get the jib out. Sail.


All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




















On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:



So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year) 
 Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is 
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.




Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.




Thanks in advance.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I don't know what you mean by

 unless
you mean did I notice any difference in charging ability, if that, then no.

 

Most any Power transmission store has Kevlar belts, I sometimes get mine at
http://vbeltsupply.com/

 

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:14 AM
To: John via CnC-List; Edd Schillay
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

 

Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft
stateroom...

Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to
day usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?

Thanks in advance.  

>From my Android

 

  _  

From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts... 

 

Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems) 

 

Get the jib out. Sail. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's   Captain's Log

 









 






 

On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

 

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year)
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.  

 

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same
configuration.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650   

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fan belts....

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

For the last number of years I've been using Dayco Gold Label Top Cog
belts. Size 17405 on my 3GMF with a Balmar 80A alternator.

Easily lasting all season although I usually change out annually no matter
the condition.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada
1982 LF38

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018, 12:08 PM David via CnC-List  Duralast.  Probably crap.  Trying to find the saw tooth version of same
> dimensions.  Which brand are you using?
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Len
> Mitchell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
> *To:* CNC List
> *Cc:* Len Mitchell
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fan belts
>
> David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as
> you but changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last
> at least twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Marek,

The split cap fits a different profile of extrusion.

There aren't many good options here.  I replace the vinyl trim cap every
2-3 years and tape it heavily.  It always disappears.

I've considered a regular old PVC plumbing cap with a short piece of PVC
pipe.  They would have to be split to slide them over the fore stay.  It
would rattle around up there but might stay on for years.  You could put
the pipe piece and cap on separately then glue them together so the cut
slot doesn't line up.

The best option is to install halyard restrainers to keep the halyards away
from the extrusion.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 11:23 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I have a Mk III (00AL) and have this problem (of sliding cap). It never
> stays on the top of the extrusion.
>
> Is there a way of using the split cap you mentioned on this furler or am I
> forever going to apply copious amounts of rigging tape to the top of the
> extrusion?
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dennis,

I have a Mk III (00AL) and have this problem (of sliding cap). It never stays 
on the top of the extrusion.

Is there a way of using the split cap you mentioned on this furler or am I 
forever going to apply copious amounts of rigging tape to the top of the 
extrusion?

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 11:54
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Depends on which furler you have.  If you have a Harken MKIII, the trim caps 
are notorious for "disappearing".  It is just a vinyl cap which slides over the 
top of the extrusion (Harken #870).  Later Harken furlers use a split insert 
which goes around the fore stay into the extrusion.

Some riggers bend the "ears" of the extrusion inward after installation.  Then 
they wrap electrical or rigging tape around the top of the extrusion annually.  
I replace the trim cap on Touche' every so often and wrap it heavily with tape. 
 To do that on an existing furler, I have to cut the trim cap to slide it over 
the fore stay.

Dennis C.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fan belts....

[David via CnC-List]

Duralast.  Probably crap.  Trying to find the saw tooth version of same 
dimensions.  Which brand are you using?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Len Mitchell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell
Subject: Stus-List Fan belts

David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as you but 
changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last at least 
twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Depends on which furler you have.  If you have a Harken MKIII, the trim
caps are notorious for "disappearing".  It is just a vinyl cap which slides
over the top of the extrusion (Harken #870).  Later Harken furlers use a
split insert which goes around the fore stay into the extrusion.

Some riggers bend the "ears" of the extrusion inward after installation.
Then they wrap electrical or rigging tape around the top of the extrusion
annually.  I replace the trim cap on Touche' every so often and wrap it
heavily with tape.  To do that on an existing furler, I have to cut the
trim cap to slide it over the fore stay.

Dennis C.


On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 10:34 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hii Dennis- That is the first I have heard of a plastic trim cap.  Is this
> something attached to each side of the mast entry box?  It makes sense to
> have something to protect the halyard from the metal edges, but I don’t
> know if something is up there or not.  I will bring my stabilized zoom
> telephoto camera next time and see if I can get a look.  As to location of
> the damage, it is very hard to tell exactly where it is.  The damage
> happens slowly over a season and by the time I notice it, the cover is
> pulled apart by about 4-5”.  The start of the damage is about 8 inches
> above the furler, so it is either just as the rope enters the mast or
> slightly further which would be the sheave or something just inside.
> Impossible to tell which from the deck.  Dave
>
>
> On Nov 5, 2018, at 8:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Is the damaged spot match up to the top of the extrusion?  Is the top of
> the extrusion missing the plastic trim cap?
>
> Lower the sail, put some tape on the damaged spot and re-hoist the sail.
> Use binoculars to see if the tape is at the top of the extrusion.
>
> If so, it may be the top of the extrusion damaging the halyard.  I
> recently cut a halyard completely in two with the extrusion top when I
> didn't realize a halyard was inadvertently over the fore stay and I furled
> the headsail.  The top of the extrusion can be much rougher and sharper
> than you think.
>
> If this is the issue, you can solve the problem several ways.  A halyard
> restrainer to hold the halyard away from the extrusion or modification of
> the top of the extrusion.  Go aloft and squeeze the edges of the two slots
> together and file or grind them smooth.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sailboat Manual Location

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Try South Shore Yachts.  And probably not.

From: Sid via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sid 
Subject: Stus-List Sailboat Manual Location

Hello Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a manual to my sailboat?
I have a 1980 C 24ft sailboat.

Will the manual have in it how to lower the mast?

Thanks for the help

Sidney




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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I like pulling the drum and inspecting/lubing the spindle bearings and
oiling the pawls annually.  For more complex winches with lower gear
assemblies, I think 3-5 years may be adequate.

It also depends on the winch material.  I would maintain alloy winches more
often than chrome/bronze or stainless winches.  Why?  The alloy is weaker
and more subject to wear if not properly lubricated.  In particular, the
pawl pockets can wallow out if not lubricated.  Once the pockets wallow
out, the winch can become unsafe or unusable.

The photo album has a lot of winch manuals online at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/indexes/winches.htm

One hint, if you have pairs of winches, service one entirely before
tackling the second one.  That way, you'll always have a model for
reassembly if you get lost.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 9:49 AM Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have wondered if yearly maintenance was normal.
>
> In 2017 Windburn covered over 2,000 nm, almost all racing.
> We keep the heavy #1 up to at least 18 knots, sometimes with gusts to 22+.
> Overall there is a lot of use of the winches. When under heavy load the
> winches are easier to use with yearly maintenance. Not much different
> under lighter winds.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
>
>
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hii Dennis- That is the first I have heard of a plastic trim cap.  Is this 
something attached to each side of the mast entry box?  It makes sense to have 
something to protect the halyard from the metal edges, but I don’t know if 
something is up there or not.  I will bring my stabilized zoom telephoto camera 
next time and see if I can get a look.  As to location of the damage, it is 
very hard to tell exactly where it is.  The damage happens slowly over a season 
and by the time I notice it, the cover is pulled apart by about 4-5”.  The 
start of the damage is about 8 inches above the furler, so it is either just as 
the rope enters the mast or slightly further which would be the sheave or 
something just inside. Impossible to tell which from the deck.  Dave


> On Nov 5, 2018, at 8:59 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Is the damaged spot match up to the top of the extrusion?  Is the top of the 
> extrusion missing the plastic trim cap?  
> 
> Lower the sail, put some tape on the damaged spot and re-hoist the sail.  Use 
> binoculars to see if the tape is at the top of the extrusion.
> 
> If so, it may be the top of the extrusion damaging the halyard.  I recently 
> cut a halyard completely in two with the extrusion top when I didn't realize 
> a halyard was inadvertently over the fore stay and I furled the headsail.  
> The top of the extrusion can be much rougher and sharper than you think.
> 
> If this is the issue, you can solve the problem several ways.  A halyard 
> restrainer to hold the halyard away from the extrusion or modification of the 
> top of the extrusion.  Go aloft and squeeze the edges of the two slots 
> together and file or grind them smooth.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 7:31 AM Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 07:57:36 -0500
> From: David Knecht  
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  
> 
> Subject: Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard
> Message-ID:  
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Several years ago, I replace the wire/rope genoa halyard on my 34+ with 3/8? 
> Maxbraid.  Every year since, the casing of the Maxbraid has been worn through 
> by the end of the season.  I rarely lower the sail so don?t konw how fast it 
> is happening.  I have not worried too much about it as the inner casing seems 
> fine, but clearly there is a problem.  I have had not had the mast down since 
> I bought the boat, but two riggers have gone up and looked at it and neither 
> could figure out what the problem was.  Neither thought the sheave was the 
> issue, but the place where the wear is occuring is about 8? above the furler 
> swivel and roughly where the halyard enters the mast.  Has anyone else had a 
> problem like this and found a solution?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> Dave,
> 2 things to explore. There is often abrasion between the spinnaker halyard 
> and the jib halyard, especially if the spinnaker halyard is not led forward 
> and secured on the bow rail. Whichever line is softer will show wear.  The 
> other is that it is sometimes necessary to swap out the sheave as it has a 
> groove meant for the wire portion of the halyard. 
> Howard Paulo, Skipper of  Knot Again 35-3
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List "skylight" lens replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I can't think of any reason to keep the bolts.  They'll usually cause a
stress concentration in the acrylic which will eventually crack.  My
windows (sealed with 3M VHB tape) finished their 3rd season and so far no
leaks or cracks.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 10:46 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
> I have a new one for you.
>
> This past summer I replaced my windows using the recommended method
> (3M
> Tape, slower-cure caulking, etc.).  The windows originally had been
> screwed
> into the cabin top and in some locations thru-bolted (the screws probably
> gave out when over-torqued to keep out water).  Before taping/caulking the
> replacements in place, I filled all the holes.  The project turned out
> fine.
> Looks good and no leaks.
>
> As a winter project, I plan to replace the lens on a small "skylight"
> (maybe 4" x 8") that illuminates the head compartment.  The orientation is
> obviously different than the windows -- it sits in a cavity in the deck
> and
> is subject to being walked on.  The skylight is thru-bolted in place.  Can
> anyone think of a reason why I should keep the thru-bolts instead of
> filling
> the holes and using the recommended procedure for regular window
> replacement?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Matt Wolford
> 42 Custom
> Erie, PA
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sailboat Manual Location

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 Hi Sidney!There are some available for sale on the C site here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/

Chris

On Monday, November 5, 2018, 10:54:09 AM EST, Sid via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello Guys,
Does anyone know where I can find a manual to my sailboat?I have a 1980 C 
24ft sailboat.
Will the manual have in it how to lower the mast?
Thanks for the help
Sidney
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Stus-List Sailboat Manual Location

[Sid via CnC-List]

Hello Guys,
Does anyone know where I can find a manual to my sailboat?I have a 1980 C 
24ft sailboat.
Will the manual have in it how to lower the mast?
Thanks for the help
Sidney
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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I have wondered if yearly maintenance was normal.


In 2017 Windburn covered over 2,000 nm, almost all racing.
We keep the heavy #1 up to at least 18 knots, sometimes with gusts to 22+.
Overall there is a lot of use of the winches. When under heavy load the
winches are easier to use with yearly maintenance. Not much different
under lighter winds.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 13:04:28 -0400 
From: dwight veinot  
 
You guys seem to have lube problems with you winches that i have not 
experienced. My winches have been cleaned and lubed only once in 15 years 
and they work and sound just fine. Last time about 5 years ago I used 
Harken white winch grease and Harken winch pawl oil. Still worin smooth and 
sounding good. Maybe i am just lucky all Barient winches 
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Re: Stus-List "skylight" lens replacement

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

   I have a new one for you.

   This past summer I replaced my windows using the recommended method (3M 
Tape, slower-cure caulking, etc.).  The windows originally had been screwed 
into the cabin top and in some locations thru-bolted (the screws probably 
gave out when over-torqued to keep out water).  Before taping/caulking the 
replacements in place, I filled all the holes.  The project turned out fine. 
Looks good and no leaks.


   As a winter project, I plan to replace the lens on a small "skylight" 
(maybe 4" x 8") that illuminates the head compartment.  The orientation is 
obviously different than the windows -- it sits in a cavity in the deck and 
is subject to being walked on.  The skylight is thru-bolted in place.  Can 
anyone think of a reason why I should keep the thru-bolts instead of filling 
the holes and using the recommended procedure for regular window 
replacement?


   Thanks in advance.

   Matt Wolford
   42 Custom
   Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List HIN Question

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Randy, I believe it has to do with order date/time and Hull layup date.   The 
order for your probably came in sooner, but was delayed in build while they 
worked out it’s configuration.

Neil Andersen, Broker
1982 C, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

ps - After 9 years out of the water, we finally had her back in the water and 
out for a sail yesterday — oh how sweat it is!

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List HIN Question

Listers-

There’s a guy (Mike Cunningham) on the C Sailboat Owners Facebook page with a 
30 MK I, HIN 30009472. Grenadine’s HIN is 30007972. So my boat is hull #7, his 
boat is hull #9. But his month number is 4, and mine is 9. How to reconcile? 
I’ve got an earlier hull number, but a later month.

Thanks,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List Interior

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

On my 34, I went to a local discount fabric shop for the fabric, then gave 
the fabric to a local cushion shop to make the replacements (they arranged 
to get replacement foam).  This particular cushion shop does boat cushions, 
RV stuff, patio furniture cushions, etc.  I gave them the old cushions as 
patterns and they took it from there.  The replacements were great.  It 
should be an easy job for any upholstery shop.


A word of caution: on my current boat, I picked out new fabric and went the 
same local shop to make replacement cushions.  This time I did not need new 
foam (the old stuff looked okay), and I did not look to see that the old 
cushions fit correctly.  Because they did not fit correctly (like 3" gaps at 
bulkheads -- thank you, PO), the replacements also did not fit correctly. 
If you use your existing cushions as patterns, make sure they fit correctly. 
If not, have the cushion shop visit the boat to take measurements.



-Original Message- 
From: Pat via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 9:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pat
Subject: Stus-List Interior

Hello,

New owner here of a C 34 with my husband Rob, in Dartmouth, Massachusetts.


Does anyone have suggestions for replacing and/or recovering the interior 
cushions?  Where to get it done, prices, fabric preferences, color 
preferences, any Photos?  Not do it yourself, thank you.


Pat



Sent from my iPad
Patricia Ball
patmb...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Ed dooley via CnC-List]

> It's a simple 2x4 a-frame, takes 5 minutes to make. It's much cheaper, and 
> safer than climbing the mast after spending much more money on various gear. 
> I don't have a photo of mine, and I mistakenly tried to send an attached 
> photo of one just like it, which got into Stu's moderation pile. Here'a link 
> to it (scroll down 4-5 posts for the photo.

https://www.google.com/amp/www.sailnet.com/forums/seamanship-navigation/280689-single-handed-mast-stepping-without-crane.html%3Ft%3D280689%26amp%3D1

> One added note, because 2 of the attachment points on the mast base of the 24 
> aren't holes that you can put bolts through to keep the base from kicking out 
> while raising or lowering the mast (it's got 2 "hooks" instead), be extra 
> careful to keep tension towards the base. We also tie a line around the base 
> to keep it where it should be, just in case.
Ed
> 
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 11:43 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>> 
>> Obviously, if you have a gin-pole, it is a different story.
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ed dooley via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 23:02
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Ed dooley 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast
>>  
>> I unstep and step the mast on my 24 with 2 people and my homemade a-frame 
>> gin pole. We use the same gin pole to step and unstep my friend's Morgan 25.
>> Ed
>> 
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 9:56 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>>  
>> ...Btw. On my old 24 the mast was like a tree trunk. I would not attempt to 
>> step it or unstep it with 3 people (I am not that strong); I’d rather climb 
>> it. But again, YMMV.
>>  
>> Marek
>> Ex. 1974 C 24
>> 1994 C270 Legato
>> Ottawa, ON
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>> 
>>  
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Stus-List Fan belts....

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as you but 
changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last at least 
twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better. 
Len Mitchell 
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, a helpful aspect of the ATN climber is that you use web foot loops as the 
means to ascend (basically standing up, moving the seat up, sitting down, 
moving the loops up, repeat).  When you get to the top, the loops come in handy 
as you can get better access to the top of the mast by standing up (which you 
can’t do with a regular bosun’s chair).

Additional notes:

1)  my mast is about 64 feet (57 feet from the deck) and the ATN climber 
works fine.  I bought it when I owned a 34, which is little less unnerving at 
the top.

2)  I taped foam around the metal parts that move up and down on the static 
line because they will scratch mast paint.

3)  the ATN climber is not good for spreader tip work because the static 
line must be securely held in place.  It is possible to do some spreader work 
on one side, complete the work, go back down, move the static line, then go 
back up, but it’s a bit of a pain and you will not get as far outboard and you 
would like.  A regular bosun’s chair is better for spreader work.

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

I was never a fan of either being hoisted or hoisting some up the mast. This is 
really hard work for the person on the winch. I like the electric winch 
hoisting even less, but YMMV.

 

I also believe that any “climbing” gear is much better than similar “sailing” 
gear, so I would prefer a climbing harness with ascenders over the ATN mast 
climbing solution. But I may be biased by personal experience.

 

Potentially, a climbing solution requires that one knows how to use it (it is a 
“do it yourself” kit vs. a ready to use kit (like ATN)).

 

Btw. On my old 24 the mast was like a tree trunk. I would not attempt to step 
it or unstep it with 3 people (I am not that strong); I’d rather climb it. But 
again, YMMV.

 

Marek

Ex. 1974 C 24

1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa, ON

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 




From: CnC-List  on behalf of James Hesketh via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 8:30:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast 




ALAN wrote:

  If you use someone to hoist you up the mast, tie the halyard to you or to 
your climbing gear, rather than using the shackle that's on the halyard. Don't 
let anyone stand under you while you're going up or while you're at the top, 
just in case you drop something. A friend of  mine ;loaned me his half inch 
drill, and a bit that fit in the winch. It didn't take me long to hoist one of 
my crew to the top of the mast, electrically.


  
Also, always use a halyard that passes through a sheave in the masthead. Don't 
trust a block held onto a tang with a shackle.  


Jim Hesketh
Whisper
Coconut Grove, FL





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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

Well Edd some of us don't have generators powering the A/C in the f'n aft 
stateroom...

Have the temp regulator.  Did you notice the output adjustment with day to day 
usage of power?  And where dod you find kevlar belts?

Thanks in advance.

>From my Android


From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:02:57 AM
To: John via CnC-List
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)

Get the jib out. Sail.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log







On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Danny,

Very light on the grease is correct.  If you put on too much, the summer
heat will cause it to run out on the gelcoat.

It is much better to apply lightly and more often than to over-apply.  Once
your winches have been thoroughly cleaned and serviced, a minor lubrication
each spring should be all you need.

In my opinion, it is better to service your winches each spring with a
light lube than to let them go for years then do a "major" servicing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 9:07 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> If you look at the lewmar demonstration video on the you tubes, the
> application of the new grease is really, really, really light.  I mean,
> I'm not sure if it is just for demonstration but, it appears he applies
> almost no grease.  he just touches the open tube of grease with a brush
> and then lightly applies that to the gears and such.  Are we supposed to
> apply such a small amount or should we be coating more evenly?
>
> Danny
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

If they are really gummed up, PB Blaster or a good degreaser will get off
the topsoil.  I had to soak several in a bucket of ZEP degreaser for hours.

Joel

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 10:07 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm about to do my winches as well.  I've got 2 old lewmar wavegrip 55s
> and 3 43s.  I also have newer 44 that is electric.  I took the 2 55s
> apart and brought them home as you can take the whole winch off the
> base.  The 43s don't allow for that but I did pull one apart.  They
> appear to have been neglected for some time.  They are gummed up and
> really dirty.  I've been watching videos and got a demonstration at the
> Annapolis boat show on how to tear one down and reassemble it.  As I
> recall the lewmar guy said 3in1 oil is great for the pauls and was not
> that particular about the grease.  I happen to have some lewmar winch
> grease.  So, I'll use that.
>
> If you look at the lewmar demonstration video on the you tubes, the
> application of the new grease is really, really, really light.  I mean,
> I'm not sure if it is just for demonstration but, it appears he applies
> almost no grease.  he just touches the open tube of grease with a brush
> and then lightly applies that to the gears and such.  Are we supposed to
> apply such a small amount or should we be coating more evenly?
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I'm about to do my winches as well.  I've got 2 old lewmar wavegrip 55s 
and 3 43s.  I also have newer 44 that is electric.  I took the 2 55s 
apart and brought them home as you can take the whole winch off the 
base.  The 43s don't allow for that but I did pull one apart.  They 
appear to have been neglected for some time.  They are gummed up and 
really dirty.  I've been watching videos and got a demonstration at the 
Annapolis boat show on how to tear one down and reassemble it.  As I 
recall the lewmar guy said 3in1 oil is great for the pauls and was not 
that particular about the grease.  I happen to have some lewmar winch 
grease.  So, I'll use that.


If you look at the lewmar demonstration video on the you tubes, the 
application of the new grease is really, really, really light.  I mean, 
I'm not sure if it is just for demonstration but, it appears he applies 
almost no grease.  he just touches the open tube of grease with a brush 
and then lightly applies that to the gears and such.  Are we supposed to 
apply such a small amount or should we be coating more evenly?


Danny



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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My Balmar started burning a belt a day a couple years ago, on a weeklong
regatta. I called Balmar, and the  tech walked me through reducing the
output with that little magnet, I had it way too high. Then I added a Balmar
heat sensor, just plugged right into their regulator. 

Haven't had a problem since.  I tie wrapped a few extra Kevlar belts in
place for good measure.

I also reset my Heart Inverter back to Factory setting around that time, and
other problems went away, not sure about all that .  . .

I can usually fix electrical problems, but I don't always understand them.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie,

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 9:20 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Fan Belts...

 

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year)
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.
Yes, but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is
buying a better quality belt for the QM series.  

 

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same
configuration.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

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Re: Stus-List Fan Belts...

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Option 4: (and the solution to all marine engine problems)

Get the jib out. Sail. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








On Nov 5, 2018, at 9:20 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.  

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
(401) 419-4650  
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

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Stus-List HIN Question

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers-

There’s a guy (Mike Cunningham) on the C Sailboat Owners Facebook page with a 
30 MK I, HIN 30009472. Grenadine’s HIN is 30007972.  So my boat is hull #7, his 
boat is hull #9.  But his month number is 4, and mine is 9.  How to reconcile?  
I’ve got an earlier hull number, but a later month.

Thanks,
Randy
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Stus-List Fan Belts...

[David via CnC-List]

So my 80 amp Balmar has me going thru fan belts more than I like (2 x year).  
Three options:  reduce alternator output...no.  Serpentine retrofit kit.  Yes, 
but at $500 I would like to spend tht elsewhere.  Third option is buying a 
better quality belt for the QM series.

Read much online, but would like opinions of folks who may have same 
configuration.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Is the damaged spot match up to the top of the extrusion?  Is the top of
the extrusion missing the plastic trim cap?

Lower the sail, put some tape on the damaged spot and re-hoist the sail.
Use binoculars to see if the tape is at the top of the extrusion.

If so, it may be the top of the extrusion damaging the halyard.  I recently
cut a halyard completely in two with the extrusion top when I didn't
realize a halyard was inadvertently over the fore stay and I furled the
headsail.  The top of the extrusion can be much rougher and sharper than
you think.

If this is the issue, you can solve the problem several ways.  A halyard
restrainer to hold the halyard away from the extrusion or modification of
the top of the extrusion.  Go aloft and squeeze the edges of the two slots
together and file or grind them smooth.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 7:31 AM Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 07:57:36 -0500
> From: David Knecht  
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  
> Subject: Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard
> Message-ID:  
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Several years ago, I replace the wire/rope genoa halyard on my 34+ with 3/8? 
> Maxbraid.  Every year since, the casing of the Maxbraid has been worn through 
> by the end of the season.  I rarely lower the sail so don?t konw how fast it 
> is happening.  I have not worried too much about it as the inner casing seems 
> fine, but clearly there is a problem.  I have had not had the mast down since 
> I bought the boat, but two riggers have gone up and looked at it and neither 
> could figure out what the problem was.  Neither thought the sheave was the 
> issue, but the place where the wear is occuring is about 8? above the furler 
> swivel and roughly where the halyard enters the mast.  Has anyone else had a 
> problem like this and found a solution?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> Dave,
> 2 things to explore. There is often abrasion between the spinnaker halyard 
> and the jib halyard, especially if the spinnaker halyard is not led forward 
> and secured on the bow rail. Whichever line is softer will show wear.  The 
> other is that it is sometimes necessary to swap out the sheave as it has a 
> groove meant for the wire portion of the halyard.
> Howard Paulo, Skipper of  Knot Again 35-3
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Sydney

There are lots of options for bosuns chairs to get you up a mast as well as the 
climbing options.  However it is November and the season is over for most of 
us.  This may be an excellent time to take the mast down and inspect everything 
else at the same time.  It is also much easier to work on the mast when it is 
horizontal at your level.  You will likely have to fish cable through the mast 
at the same time so working aloft would be a lot of work for this project.

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sidney King 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 1:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sidney King
Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast

Hello

I would like to add a antenna at the top of the mast for a marina radio.

Looking for advice on how to accomplish this.

I have a 1980 c 24ft sailboat.

Is there a weight limit to climb the mast?

What kind climbing gear to use?

Thank you

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Re: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Randy here in Southern Ontario, gel coated boats usually shrink wrap to the 
waterline, but painted or awl gripped boats to the shear line.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 3:52 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to shrink-wrap 
Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to damage her paint job.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Randy

One issue is the heat gun (torch) used to shrink the wrap.  Ensure the person 
doing the job knows the boat is painted or excessive heat could damage the 
paint.

The family C 36 "Blue Horizon No.1" was painted in 1989 I believe after being 
only 8 years old.  The boat was sold in 1990 and then in 2003 sold again and 
this time to a person I know.  A couple years later I noted he had the boat 
painted white (was a robin's egg blue colour originally) and asked if he did 
not like the previous colour.  He said it was repainted because the paint was 
damaged badly when shrink wrapped because the operatior did not know the boat 
was painted.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2018 4:52 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to shrink-wrap 
Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to damage her paint job.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 07:57:36 -0500
From: David Knecht
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Several years ago, I replace the wire/rope genoa halyard on my 34+ with 3/8? 
Maxbraid.  Every year since, the casing of the Maxbraid has been worn through 
by the end of the season.  I rarely lower the sail so don?t konw how fast it is 
happening.  I have not worried too much about it as the inner casing seems 
fine, but clearly there is a problem.  I have had not had the mast down since I 
bought the boat, but two riggers have gone up and looked at it and neither 
could figure out what the problem was.  Neither thought the sheave was the 
issue, but the place where the wear is occuring is about 8? above the furler 
swivel and roughly where the halyard enters the mast.  Has anyone else had a 
problem like this and found a solution?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Dave,
2 things to explore. There is often abrasion between the spinnaker halyard and 
the jib halyard, especially if the spinnaker halyard is not led forward and 
secured on the bow rail. Whichever line is softer will show wear.  The other is 
that it is sometimes necessary to swap out the sheave as it has a groove meant 
for the wire portion of the halyard.
Howard Paulo, Skipper of  Knot Again 35-3

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Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Several years ago, I replace the wire/rope genoa halyard on my 34+ with 3/8” 
Maxbraid.  Every year since, the casing of the Maxbraid has been worn through 
by the end of the season.  I rarely lower the sail so don’t konw how fast it is 
happening.  I have not worried too much about it as the inner casing seems 
fine, but clearly there is a problem.  I have had not had the mast down since I 
bought the boat, but two riggers have gone up and looked at it and neither 
could figure out what the problem was.  Neither thought the sheave was the 
issue, but the place where the wear is occuring is about 8” above the furler 
swivel and roughly where the halyard enters the mast.  Has anyone else had a 
problem like this and found a solution?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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