Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe
wrench.  I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight.  It is about 4 years
old and looking pretty rough.  I think it will last at least through till
next year.

Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Dec 3, 2018, 12:18 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on
> spring projects.  Nothing went smoothly (what else is new):
>
> #1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode.  This is the first
> time I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown
> when was the last change.  I was unable to budge the threads at all with a
> large pipe wrench.  Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to
> the unit?  Will PB blaster do anything to pipe compound?
>
> #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years
> ago.  The cap came off without the zinc itself.  I first interpreted this
> as the zinc being completely gone.  However, when I tried to insert a new
> one, it was blocked from going in at all.  I am guessing this means the
> zinc core broke off and is stuck inside.  If I take the end cap off, can I
> get to the piece inside?  Is this a common problem?
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Stus-List Stuffing box issue

[robert via CnC-List]

"Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell 
what size packing they use."


Don,
I have 1984 C 32 with a 1" prop shafttypical stuffing 
boxreplaced with 3/16"3 strandsfirst two strands went in but 
when I put in the 3rd strand, I couldn't not thread the nuttoo 
tightso I took out the 3rd strand and put the nut on and tighten it 
to compress the first two strands and then put the 3rd strand back in 
and I could then put the nuts together.


My point is 3 strands of 3/16th on my 1" shaft is what worked for me.

Any particular reason you used 1/4' packing and not 3/16th?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hello John
Thank-you for the reply.  We started with three strands but had the problem of 
dripping in idle but not once running and warmed up. So we added another.  The 
idea being we could loosen it off more but still stop the drip when stopped.  
At least that was our logic at the time.  Didn't work.
Do you have the original stuffing box?  
The 1/4 inch we used didn't have to be jammed in but it certainly didn't just 
slip in either.  Sort of pushed it in one ring at a time by screwing on the 
nut.  I know the rings could have shifted position in terms of alignment of the 
cuts but it seemed a little too tight for that.  Also, it seems if all the cuts 
somehow got in a straight line it would leak more.
How snug are your 3/16 rings?  Do they slide in without to much effort?
We definitely got all the old rings out as we had the nut off.  We should have 
put the new rings in then but we waited till it was back on the shaft.  
This time we will have to do it in the water.  Is that how you do it?
I think the rings are too big and we over tightened them out of the gates.  We 
are putting new ones in just debating size.  You are the second person that 
said 3/16.  Tomorrow we will measure the inside of nut and do the math.  As 
best we can with the shaft running through the nut  and water coming in.
Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell what size 
packing they use.
In terms of fuel we have had it all apart.  We will now start that task over 
also.  The Racor is only a year old as are many of the fittings.  It has only 
ever been hand tightened.  I have this worry that when we changed the filter we 
didn't  fill it enough which caused the engine to stop. Then in our efforts to 
clean the tank and do everything else trying to figure it out we introduced a 
leak somewhere which is causing the same result.  But maybe I'm just being 
negative.
Thanks for helping.DonAndante1982 C 34Victoria
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 Date: 2018-12-03  5:34 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John and Maryann Read  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel 
Don

RE: packing - you may have too much in the stuffing box.  Our 34 has a 1
inch shaft.  We use 3/16 Teflon packing (much better than flax).  3 strands
cut at 45 degrees with joints staggered.  Works just fine.  Takes a few
adjustments to get the correct drip - none when at rest a few drops per
minute when running.  So we have 9/16 total packing.  If you have 4 strands
of 1/4 inch that is a full one inch - too much IMHO.  Also most important to
ensure you have all the old packing in fact removed.  We use a 1 1/2 inch
screw and screw it into each strand and it easily is removed.  You know you
have it all out if the nut moves freely around the shaft at various angles.

RE: air - have you checked the shut off valve on the inlet?  Maybe needs to
be removed and rebedded??  Same thing on the filter fittings.  How about the
inlet tube inside the tank where it mates to the fitting?  Yes a low fuel
level in the tank will allow air in if heeled to starboard as the inlet is
on the port side.  Just some ideas


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT




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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

1+ on this from Dennis! Been there and done that when I replaced T-handle with 
pressure gauge. 


My diesel mechanic (having replaced/tightened all other fittings) suggested 
replacing the Racor filter top. 


Done and problem gone--when Racor says hand-tighten this top--PAY ATTENTION. 
Sometimes too tight is as bad as too loose!


Plus once the top is warped, tightening more just warps it more--a new top is 
the only solution for this warping.


Charlie Nelson


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2018 9:36 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel



Racor 500 fuel filter tops can warp over time allowing air to leak in.  If the 
T-handle is over-tightened, it can cause the top to become concave. Lay a flat 
across the underside of the top and see if the center is depressed (raised if 
the top is upside down).  If so, you can't tighten the T-handle enough to seal 
the gasket.


Also, the gasket can leak if old.  Replace it often.


Dennis C.







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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Racor 500 fuel filter tops can warp over time allowing air to leak in.  If
the T-handle is over-tightened, it can cause the top to become concave.
Lay a flat across the underside of the top and see if the center is
depressed (raised if the top is upside down).  If so, you can't tighten the
T-handle enough to seal the gasket.

Also, the gasket can leak if old.  Replace it often.

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Don

RE: packing - you may have too much in the stuffing box.  Our 34 has a 1
inch shaft.  We use 3/16 Teflon packing (much better than flax).  3 strands
cut at 45 degrees with joints staggered.  Works just fine.  Takes a few
adjustments to get the correct drip - none when at rest a few drops per
minute when running.  So we have 9/16 total packing.  If you have 4 strands
of 1/4 inch that is a full one inch - too much IMHO.  Also most important to
ensure you have all the old packing in fact removed.  We use a 1 1/2 inch
screw and screw it into each strand and it easily is removed.  You know you
have it all out if the nut moves freely around the shaft at various angles.

RE: air - have you checked the shut off valve on the inlet?  Maybe needs to
be removed and rebedded??  Same thing on the filter fittings.  How about the
inlet tube inside the tank where it mates to the fitting?  Yes a low fuel
level in the tank will allow air in if heeled to starboard as the inlet is
on the port side.  Just some ideas


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT




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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the great resource to heat exchanger maintenance.

FWIW, I keep several 1/8" wooden dowels aboard (Walmart or Michaels) to ream 
out the scale buildup in the heat exchanger of my Universal M4-30. It makes a 
huge difference cleaning the tubes out and I do that each fall after I change 
the oil and before I pump the pink stuff throught the engine. The wooden dowels 
come in a length I can break in half and I keep them in a Rubbermaid container 
onboard labeled "Engine", with spare belts, oil filters, fuel filters, oil 
absorbent towels, spare raw water pump impellers, zinc anodes for the heat 
exchanger (I have to use a hack saw and cut off the shelf anodes to fit my heat 
exchanger) and spare zincs for the Maxprop and shaft. I've never replaced the 
gaskets or the O-rings on the end cap bolts in the 16 years I've had the boat. 
But wooden dowels have saved me several times when the engine was overheating.

Now I'm cursed and will have to order those heat exchanger gasket parts.


> On December 3, 2018 at 1:51 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue.  Happens on Touche' 
> frequently.  :(
> 
> First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into 
> the exchanger.  Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger, 
> you may be fine.  HOWEVER, IF this has been done a bunch of times, there is a 
> potential for one pass of your exchanger to be restricted and you will suffer 
> engine overheating.  
> 
> I went through this last year with my Universal 25XPB.  Fix is 
> straightforward but may be complicated by access to your exchanger.  You'll 
> need to remove the exchanger end caps and remove ALL the anode bits.  Flush 
> the tubes liberally with pressure water.  Chances are the tubes are fairly 
> clean but inspect them to be sure.  Due to access issues, I shined a light in 
> one end while looking with a mirror on the other end.  If clean, reinstall 
> the end caps with NEW gaskets.  You can install the new anode before you put 
> the end caps on just to see what it looks like inside the exchanger.  Just 
> helps with visualization.
> 
> Here's a good article on the issue:
> 
> 
> https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few 
> > years ago.  The cap came off without the zinc itself.  I first interpreted 
> > this as the zinc being completely gone.  However, when I tried to insert a 
> > new one, it was blocked from going in at all.  I am guessing this means the 
> > zinc core broke off and is stuck inside.  If I take the end cap off, can I 
> > get to the piece inside?  Is this a common problem?  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

They typically are rectangles, thin sheet metal, and when they flex, over time 
they can open up the welds, depending on where they are on the tank.  
Especially when there are baffles involved. The only really safe tank would be 
cylindrical, with elliptical heads. Which of course doesn’t work well with the 
spaces we have to deal with. If I WERE to make another SS tank, it would be 
with at least 12 Gauge SS. And a lot of detail.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 6:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill:  What’s the issue with stainless tanks?

 

From: coltrek---   via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:38 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: colt...@verizon.net 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

 

  _  

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.

Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the last 
couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.

I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S. 



Chapter two,  

This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.

 

 

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  _  

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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I replaced the countertop and Icebox lid with Blue Corian, looks great. The 
formica was delaminating.

Haven’t replaced the sink counter yet, but have the Corian for it, the next 
owner can handle that.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

 

 

I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops for more 
modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am not so much 
concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.   

We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even question 
the need for the fiddles.  

I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral. 

Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated. 

Adam Hayden 

C 36 

state of bliss. 

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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Looks like 

Sodium metasilicate - pentahydrate 6834-92-0 < 5% 2 MG/M3 8 HR

TWA AS NAOH

2 Butoxyethanol 111-76-2 < 5 % 25 ppm SKIN

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=rja=8=2ahUKEwjlxeP734TfAhUCYKwKHVitAYEQFjAAegQICBAC=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.servicechamp.com%2Fimages%2F35438msds.pdf=AOvVaw1s2MpjUPGFjsPRf970WhqT

 

http://oileater.com/brochures/

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

 

Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best water 
based degreaser going. 

 

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have ever 
used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your hands for 
very long. Rubber gloves would help

Bill Coleman 
C 39, Erie PA

  _  

On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:

What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. Some 
of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Instruments

[Dave S via CnC-List]

FWIW I like the multifunction nature of the i70.  You can reconfigure the 
display to include many or few data points, page through different layouts, 
etc.  One instrument rather than several, and with a nmea 2000 backbone its 
future proof.  (Ish). 

Don’t have wind inst (yet) but would first try my single i70 with that, and add 
a second if that wasn’t satisfactory.  
Ymmv of course

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 3, 2018, at 11:09 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> 
> Persistence has the i50/i60 series and previous boat had the ST60 series.
>  
> I50/i60 are very nice to use and easy to read.  I think the ST60 is a bit 
> more robust though.  The i50/i60 series are mounted with four tiny screws on 
> the corners that are covered by a bevel whereas ST60 had  much more robust 
> fasteners. I would think that if you had to remove these each Fall this could 
> be a point of concern.  Persistence is covered so I leave ours mounted making 
> this not a problem.
>  
> Functionally the i50/i60 are very good and I would not hesitate to go this 
> route again
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
> Maryann Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2018 7:15 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read
> Subject: Stus-List Instruments
>  
> Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well except 
> the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are in need of 
> replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work great.  We do not 
> have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart plotter or AIS as no need
>  
> We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions of 
> which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50 suite 
> due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost, ready 
> availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.  Hole 
> size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in bulkhead 
> but have the room
>  
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack=-1|344|2028690|2028820=2086335
>  
>  
> Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Pictures of the access hatch I installed several yeas ago are now posted in a 
Dropbox folder (named C) which you can view here: 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/44pjga1qixliadz/AACVsjFhGwprwuDydjV-yF5Xa?dl=0

The dimensions of the hatch are approximately 17 X 12.5 inches. What looks like 
the identical hatch is still posted for sale on Ebay. Several sites show the 
same product. At least one of them is based in the US, and the price is lower 
than I remembered:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOAT-DECK-HATCH-ACCESS-HATCH-LID-17-1-4-x12-2-5-MARINE-ACCESS-HATCH-WHITE/191080155234?hash=item2c7d43c862:g:5jEAAOSwYSlXgLZg:rk:1:pf:0

As I mentioned before, the quality of the construction appears to be solid and 
the gasket does not leak and has held up well for the 4 years since I installed 
it.

> Several folks on the list seem to be interested in seeing the access panel I 
> installed in the rear of Cat’s Paw's cockpit.  I’ll be at the boat Sunday or 
> Monday and will take pictures of the installation, so I can post them in the 
> Public folder of my Dropbox.  I’ll post the URL of that folder when I post 
> the pictures (not knowing how to post them properly like most of our list 
> serve obviously know!).


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dave,

Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue.  Happens on Touche'
frequently.  :(

First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into the
exchanger.  Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger,
you may be fine.  HOWEVER, IF this has been done a bunch of times, there is
a potential for one pass of your exchanger to be restricted and you will
suffer engine overheating.

I went through this last year with my Universal 25XPB.  Fix is
straightforward but may be complicated by access to your exchanger.  You'll
need to remove the exchanger end caps and remove ALL the anode bits.  Flush
the tubes liberally with pressure water.  Chances are the tubes are fairly
clean but inspect them to be sure.  Due to access issues, I shined a light
in one end while looking with a mirror on the other end.  If clean,
reinstall the end caps with NEW gaskets.  You can install the new anode
before you put the end caps on just to see what it looks like inside the
exchanger.  Just helps with visualization.

Here's a good article on the issue:

https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years
> ago.  The cap came off without the zinc itself.  I first interpreted this
> as the zinc being completely gone.  However, when I tried to insert a new
> one, it was blocked from going in at all.  I am guessing this means the
> zinc core broke off and is stuck inside.  If I take the end cap off, can I
> get to the piece inside?  Is this a common problem?
>
>
>
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Stus-List replacing anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on spring 
projects.  Nothing went smoothly (what else is new):

#1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode.  This is the first time 
I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown when was 
the last change.  I was unable to budge the threads at all with a large pipe 
wrench.  Suggestions on how to get it loose without damage to the unit?  Will 
PB blaster do anything to pipe compound?

#2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few years ago.  
The cap came off without the zinc itself.  I first interpreted this as the zinc 
being completely gone.  However, when I tried to insert a new one, it was 
blocked from going in at all.  I am guessing this means the zinc core broke off 
and is stuck inside.  If I take the end cap off, can I get to the piece inside? 
 Is this a common problem?  

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Merriman Holbrook Hydraulic Backstay Data

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes, I know that it is old, but it appears to be in excellent condition. In 
fact, it looks new except for the gauge. I have searched the internet over the 
past few days, and found almost nothing online, mainly a few bits about the 
history of the company and the fact that it folded over 30 years ago. Too old 
to have much technical data posted on the internet I guess. It sure appears to 
be very well built. 

"Hydrastay" is marked inside the gauge along with company identification and it 
is marked up to 7300 pounds. The body is square at the bottom and the cylinder 
is round. 5011 is stamped in large characters on the bottom and appears to be 
the model number. The only thing missing is the handle. 

If anyone has an owners manual and/or other data that you are willing to make 
available, I sure would appreciate it. 

Thanks in advance. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Instruments

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence has the i50/i60 series and previous boat had the ST60 series.

I50/i60 are very nice to use and easy to read.  I think the ST60 is a bit more 
robust though.  The i50/i60 series are mounted with four tiny screws on the 
corners that are covered by a bevel whereas ST60 had  much more robust 
fasteners. I would think that if you had to remove these each Fall this could 
be a point of concern.  Persistence is covered so I leave ours mounted making 
this not a problem.

Functionally the i50/i60 are very good and I would not hesitate to go this 
route again

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2018 7:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List Instruments

Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well except 
the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are in need of 
replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work great.  We do not 
have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart plotter or AIS as no need

We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions of 
which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50 suite due 
to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost, ready 
availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.  Hole size 
in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in bulkhead but have 
the room

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack=-1|344|2028690|2028820=2086335


Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I would make sure it looks like it belongs on a boat.  Modern is nice but a LOT 
of household materials look odd on a boat and may make the boat more difficult 
to sell when that time comes.  OTOH if it is done right and has a nice look and 
feel it may make the boat less difficult to sell.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2018 9:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

If it pleases the Admiral then do it. You will learn to like it and have more 
peaceful cruising

On Fri, Nov 30, 2018 at 7:04 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops for more 
modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am not so much 
concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.
We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even question 
the need for the fiddles.
I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral.
Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated.
Adam Hayden
C 36
state of bliss.
Get Outlook for Android

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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Nice article on batteries in winter. Thanks for the clarity.


> On December 2, 2018 at 10:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Another decent article on winter self-discharge can be found here: 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge .
> 
>  
> 
> Not on the C Photo Album site, but almost as good.
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 07:27
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: Surrette 
> Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm 
> https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fdoityourself%2Fbatteries%2Fbatteries.htm=02%7C01%7C%7C0e61a04c178b4ca5006708d658519483%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636793504730256677=AdPIX2%2Fu15cMhEr0CmuWKOa%2Fs%2FHA5Gu4A8q036M8gCo%3D=0
> 
>  
> 
> Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge very slowly, the colder the 
> storage temperature, the slower.  Start with them fully charged and 
> everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.
> 
>  
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>  
> 
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 at 06:59, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > If your batteries are good they will hold charge all winter long if 
> > you do as Robert on AZURA explained. Did i suggest you do it that way 
> > Robert?  If they don’t hold charge you can probably look forward to buying 
> > new batteries very soon. Consider it a test on your batteries: works every 
> > time but dont drop by occaisionaly during winter storage to charge them if 
> > you want a reliable test
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 5:19 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > I would not put a solar panel without a controller, even if 
> > > it puts only 1 A.
> > > 
> > > Why? I murdered two batteries this way. My panel was 15 W, so 
> > > hardly tons of current, but each battery lasted just about a season. I 
> > > thought that spending extra $50 for a controller was a waste of money. I 
> > > blamed the batteries, but I learned since.
> > > 
> > > Marek
> > > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: CnC-List  > > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > On Behalf Of Len Mitchell via 
> > > CnC-List
> > > Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 12:04
> > > To: CNC List  > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > Cc: Len Mitchell  > > mailto:xfireca...@gmail.com >
> > > Subject: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
> > > 
> > > Not sure why no one has talked about a solar panel to keep 
> > > batteries topped up! Or did I miss something? The price just keeps 
> > > getting lower and they work well. Mine are always up and the boat is 
> > > covered in canvas plus snow. A small inexpensive panel will deliver 2 
> > > amps or less in the daylight and won’t even require a controller at that 
> > > charge rate. If your batteries are being discharged or they aren’t strong 
> > > enough, they can freeze. Check specific gravity and electrolyte level yes!
> > > Len
> > > 
> > > Sent from my iPad
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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> > >  
> > > https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C0e61a04c178b4ca5006708d658519483%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636793504730256677=33VoVME3yIvVrvhtXQIVvNCALbrtz%2FMSOR5f3SadsNc%3D=0
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > > 

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That was me who suggested air in the racor.  I had similar problems and
continue to.  My solution was to simply make venting the filter easier and
more effective.  If I vent every month or two then not enough air ever
accumulates to cause problems.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m50s

 Air is getting in because of the negative pressure from the engine sucking
fuel from the tank.  An alternative solution which I have considered, is
installing an electric fuel pump near the tank.  This would pressurize the
system, hopefully minimizing the amount of air getting sucked in.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 9:40 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List  Stuffing Box Issues
>
> In the last week we took the boat out of the water, put on a new Campbell
> Sailor prop.,  pulled the shaft and put in a new cutlass bearing, and
> repacked the stuffing box.
>
> Considering it is a boat all went reasonably well.  As an aside we are
> very happy with the prop in the short test we did.  More power and way
> smoother than the two bladed prop we took off.  Way smoother.
>
> However, this was my first attempt at doing the stuffing box and it is not
> going well.  Previously I always paid someone, perhaps a lesson there.  I'm
> hoping someone can give some insight.
>
> We used flax rings 1/4 inch which seem to fit well into the nut.  They
> were cut at 45 degrees and the cuts placed at different positions around
> the shaft.  Before being pushed in.  We used 4 rings.
>
> At the moment it is dripping slightly when not running.  When starting out
> the box drips slowly when at idle whether in gear or not.   As you power up
> it continues to drip but as the box warms up the dripping slows down,
> causing the box to get warmer and warmer.  Ultimately the dripping stops
> and things get hot.  When you stop and go back to idle and let it cool down
> it ultimately starts to drip again.  You can loosen the nut so that when
> not running you are getting a steady drip, but when you power up the
> process repeats itself.
>
> So the question is what have I done wrong?
>
> Dirty Fuel Blues
>
> In a previous email I talked about fuel problems we were having that
> seemed odd.  Odd in that we thought it was dirty fuel but the primary
> filter wasn't that dirty.  And we ultimately got the engine running again
> without changing the filter.  Someone suggested that it could be air in the
> top of the Racor 500 filter and then when running the engine while motor
> sailing if you had enough heel you would get bubbles in the fuel line which
> would cause the problem.  And that scenario of motor sailing is what was
> going on shortly before the engine died.Sure enough we had air in the
> top of the filter, which we thought could have been from not properly
> filling it when we recently (previous to the problem) changed the filter.
> So we drained the tank, sucked out everything on the bottom so that it is
> reasonably clean, changed the filters and filled to the top the Racor 500.
> Everything runs fine now, except the top of Racor housing continues to get
> about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of air in it.  We have checked lines, tightened
> everything that can be tightened, etc.  All the fittings have been re-taped
> and tightened, etc.
>
> That air has to be coming from somewhere, right?  And we think that was
> the cause of our engine quitting.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> As always, thanks.
>
> Don
> Andante, C 34, Victoria
>
> Sent from my iPad
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
On Dec 2, 2018 9:40 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Stuffing Box Issues

In the last week we took the boat out of the water, put on a new Campbell
Sailor prop.,  pulled the shaft and put in a new cutlass bearing, and
repacked the stuffing box.

Considering it is a boat all went reasonably well.  As an aside we are very
happy with the prop in the short test we did.  More power and way smoother
than the two bladed prop we took off.  Way smoother.

However, this was my first attempt at doing the stuffing box and it is not
going well.  Previously I always paid someone, perhaps a lesson there.  I'm
hoping someone can give some insight.

We used flax rings 1/4 inch which seem to fit well into the nut.  They were
cut at 45 degrees and the cuts placed at different positions around the
shaft.  Before being pushed in.  We used 4 rings.

At the moment it is dripping slightly when not running.  When starting out
the box drips slowly when at idle whether in gear or not.   As you power up
it continues to drip but as the box warms up the dripping slows down,
causing the box to get warmer and warmer.  Ultimately the dripping stops
and things get hot.  When you stop and go back to idle and let it cool down
it ultimately starts to