Re: Stus-List 33-2 window replacement

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Dave, I have done the flush window replacement. Let me know if you need 
help.Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/18/20  16:58  (GMT-08:00) To: C Stus List 
 Cc: Dave S  Subject: Stus-List 33-2 
window replacement Will have to beg for forgiveness here my my searches have 
not turned up the references I was seeking on this oft-visited 
subject.Specifically - one lister has put a detailed explanation in flush port 
light replacement, using vhb tape I think.    Could someone forward the link 
please?Looking for that link or any other reference.  Almost ready to install 
my windows.Am actually tempted to use high tensile  silicone.  I generally hate 
the stuff, but one of my windows had been installed this way by the po - poor 
job but quite secure, no leaks and impossible to remove...  until severed with 
a razor-knife.  No gelcoat damage.  The other side was original - not so 
easy...Thanks in advance, Dave.33-2 windstarSent from my 
iPhone___Thanks everyone for 
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Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Rich,

I like the sounds of this upgrade, as I was quite surprised to hear the
lenses are only 1/8" thick. I suspect mine are original except over the nav
table, which is either thinner or a softer material, as it flexes
noticeably more, and there are slight bends in the frame. I don't have
metal interior frames, just flimsy fiberglass ones which have plenty of
cracks. I reinforced one with epoxy from the back, and painted, but the
cracks are coming back. The one over the stove is melted, so may be hard to
rebuild. The gap between deck and liner on my 35 is about 3/8", so will
need a fair amount of epoxy to fill. The fiberglass inner frames hide the
gap (mostly), so the epoxy job doesn't have to be perfect.

I'm assuming I just tear out the old seals from the outside and then pop
the lens out? By the looks of it, the old rubber seals will probably fall
apart quite easily. I didn't realize there was foam tape on the inside; I
guess that explains the bit of stuff creeping out of the crack. Given the
looks of them, I am actually surprised they don't leak more, so I'm also
hesitant to touch them until I am really prepared to do it right.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 7:11 PM Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Years ago I decided that I wanted to keep the original Beclawat portlight
> frames for the larger portlights on my C 30 rather than having custom
> long ones made. To me, their proportion looks just right on the boat. I
> didn’t like the 1/8” acrylic however - not very robust for that size of
> port. I did what Shawn suggests - filled the approximate 1/8” gap between
> the headliner and deck with epoxy thickened with structural filler, trying
> to ensure that the overall thickness was consistent around the perimeter -
> some shims may be needed to pry out parts of it to achieve this. I
> eliminated the interior aluminum trim ring - it is not needed with the new
> solid structure. I used 3/16” Lexan for the lenses and eliminated the foam
> tape to make room for the extra thickness of material. It has worked
> flawlessly for many years - far stronger and no leaks. The interior look is
> improved as well.
>
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
> C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will
> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure
> if there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the
> frame to deck seal?
>
> I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy,
> after stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to
> contain the epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there
> were wooden shims and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void
> is wide open.
>
> I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless,
> but want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was
> thinking of buffing the frames to a shine, although not sure how long it
> would last...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 3:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>>
>> Same concept here and this guy is a professionalI think.
>>
>>
>> https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8
>>
>>
>>
>> Landfall 35
>>
>> Westbrook, CT
>>
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>>
>> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>>  wrote:
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Woodworking help

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Try thin tracing paper…

 

Neil Andersen

S/V FoxFire

1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD 21661




 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 8:35 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Woodworking help

 

Not C but definitely boat related. 

 

A buddy of mine wants his cockpit table repaired.  I'm going to attempt to glue 
some teak laminate or veneer over the existing teak pieces.  I am very 
pessimistic about removing the existing pieces.  They are only 1/8-3/16 inch 
thick and appear to be glued or epoxied down.  I suspect if I try to pull them 
up, they will disintegrate.  I'll try it as a last resort.

 

I want to make a template of them so I can use a router to shape the laminate.  
I'm talking about the two outboard pieces in this picture.  The two inboard 
pieces will be easy to shape.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EQAJuMC1mldwaXJKxyBaW8YScggQT7fC


 

Anybody got a slick way to make a template of two weird shaped thin pieces of 
teak glued down?

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Fwd: Window Installation - 1985 41

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I' m pretty sure this is the discussion you are looking for on the VhB tape and 
Silicone method. See the Sailmagazine link below.

I saved many technical discussions in a folder over the years.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
1987 33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Début du message transféré :

Expéditeur: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10 février 2015 à 14:22:40 UTC−5
Destinataire: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Objet: Rép :⁨ Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41⁩
Répondre à: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>>, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>


I've been following this topic any time I see it come up - I have windows in 
need of replacement.
I like the sailing anarchy suggestion - with coincides (fairly closely )with 
Don Casey's recommendation
http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights
He recommends double sided tape and Dow Corning 795 sealant.
The one difference he suggests using just the double sided tape initially  - 
then squeeze the sealant into the gap after the window is in place.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-02-07 8:50 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Do NOT use 5200.

Here is one way to do it: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page01.htm

Here is another way to do it: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986=

Here's another way:

Clean all traces of silicone from the window and frame. This will take roughly 
forever. I used a product I got from an auto parts store called "Acryl-Safe" 
which did a good job. You could also try any number of citrus-based silicone 
removers. Clean off all the remover residue with Interlux Special Thinner 216.
You could try rebedding without screws. I opted to use screws on 6" centers, 4" 
would have been better. Drill the holes slightly oversize and use a washer 
under the screw head.
The sealant is the next step. I used Life Seal (NOT Life Caulk!) because it has 
good adhesive qualities and does not interact with the acrylic/Lexan (whatever 
you have). If I was starting from scratch, I would use Sikaflex 295 UV with the 
special primer and skip the screws.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 February 2015 at 16:18, Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have a relatively new to us 1985 41.  The windows and hatches had been 
replaced by the previous owner.  Hatches were done right, the side windows were 
bedded in silicone, not right.  I had to re-bed one of them already but did not 
get all traces of the silicone off so it did not take.  Need to do it again as 
soon as possible which will involve removing the window, scraping clean and 
then wiping the cabin side with acetone and re-bedding with 5200.  The question 
is – there are no mechanical fastenings?  Should I add screws every 4” or so or 
create some sort of method to press the windows in place while the 5200 sets?  
Anyone come up with the perfect jig to do this or is it better to add screws?  
Large custom bar clamps?

Rex & Jennifer Delay
www. Ghostlake.com
www.ghostlakesailing.com


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Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

[Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List]

Years ago I decided that I wanted to keep the original Beclawat portlight 
frames for the larger portlights on my C 30 rather than having custom long 
ones made. To me, their proportion looks just right on the boat. I didn’t like 
the 1/8” acrylic however - not very robust for that size of port. I did what 
Shawn suggests - filled the approximate 1/8” gap between the headliner and deck 
with epoxy thickened with structural filler, trying to ensure that the overall 
thickness was consistent around the perimeter - some shims may be needed to pry 
out parts of it to achieve this. I eliminated the interior aluminum trim ring - 
it is not needed with the new solid structure. I used 3/16” Lexan for the 
lenses and eliminated the foam tape to make room for the extra thickness of 
material. It has worked flawlessly for many years - far stronger and no leaks. 
The interior look is improved as well.

Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON

> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will 
> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure if 
> there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the frame to 
> deck seal?
> 
> I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy, 
> after stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to 
> contain the epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there were 
> wooden shims and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void is wide 
> open.
> 
> I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless, but 
> want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was 
> thinking of buffing the frames to a shine, although not sure how long it 
> would last...
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 
> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 3:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Tom,
> 
> Same concept here and this guy is a professionalI think.
> 
> https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8 
> 
> 
> Landfall 35
> Westbrook, CT
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List 33-2 window replacement

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dave:

I replaced the 4 side cabin/couch windows approx. 12 years ago...they 
are side flush mount to the cabin with no framesthe longer forward 
one has a slight curve when properly installed making it a bigger 
challenge to install.


When it came to the actual installation, back in 2008 I used Sika 295 UV 
and the Sika Primernot sure if the VHB tape existed thenwish it 
had and I used it from what I have read.


But it is Sika...I taped both the inside and outside of the 
windows...put Sika on both the frame and the windowmade sure all the 
surfaces had the adhesive when I placed into position.


The challenge I had was how to hold them in place until the Sika cured 
for 2 days...there was a pile of 2" X 4" in the boatyard so I measured 
from the window to the toerail and cut 12 pieces, 3 per window so when 
the window was put into place, the 2" X 4" were jammed between  window 
and toerail and I placed a 10 lb stone on each 2" X 4" to hold in place.


12 years later, the windows are intact and no leaks.

If I ever have to done this job again (and I hope I don't) I will be 
using the tape and not Sika 295 UV or any other tube adhesive.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32-#277
Halifax, N.S.




On 5/18/2020 8:58 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Will have to beg for forgiveness here my my searches have not turned up 
the references I was seeking on this oft-visited subject.


Specifically - one lister has put a detailed explanation in flush port 
light replacement, using vhb tape I think.    Could someone forward the 
link please?


Looking for that link or any other reference.  Almost ready to install 
my windows.


Am actually tempted to use high tensile  silicone.  I generally hate the 
stuff, but one of my windows had been installed this way by the po - 
poor job but quite secure, no leaks and impossible to remove...  until 
severed with a razor-knife.  No gelcoat damage. The other side was 
original - not so easy...


Thanks in advance, Dave.

33-2 windstar

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Stus-List 33-2 window replacement

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dave:

I replaced the 4 side cabin/couch windows approx. 12 years ago...they 
are side flush mount to the cabin with no framesthe longer forward 
one has a slight curve when properly installed making it a bigger 
challenge to install.


When it came to the actual installation, back in 2008 I used Sika 295 UV 
and the Sika Primernot sure if the VHB tape existed thenwish it 
had and I used it from what I have read.


But it is Sika...I taped both the inside and outside of the 
windows...put Sika on both the frame and the windowmade sure all the 
surfaces had the adhesive when I placed into position.


The challenge I had was how to hold them in place until the Sika cured 
for 2 days...there was a pile of 2" X 4" in the boatyard so I measured 
from the window to the toerail and cut 12 pieces, 3 per window so when 
the window was put into place, the 2" X 4" were jammed between  window 
and toerail and I placed a 10 lb stone on each 2" X 4" to hold in place.


12 years later, the windows are intact and no leaks.

If I ever have to done this job again (and I hope I don't) I will be 
using the tape and not Sika 295 UV or any other tube adhesive.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32-#277
Halifax, N.S.




On 5/18/2020 8:58 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:

Will have to beg for forgiveness here my my searches have not turned up the 
references I was seeking on this oft-visited subject.

Specifically - one lister has put a detailed explanation in flush port light 
replacement, using vhb tape I think.Could someone forward the link please?

Looking for that link or any other reference.  Almost ready to install my 
windows.

Am actually tempted to use high tensile  silicone.  I generally hate the stuff, 
but one of my windows had been installed this way by the po - poor job but 
quite secure, no leaks and impossible to remove...  until severed with a 
razor-knife.  No gelcoat damage.  The other side was original - not so easy...

Thanks in advance, Dave.

33-2 windstar

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Woodworking help

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not C but definitely boat related.

A buddy of mine wants his cockpit table repaired.  I'm going to attempt to
glue some teak laminate or veneer over the existing teak pieces.  I am very
pessimistic about removing the existing pieces.  They are only 1/8-3/16
inch thick and appear to be glued or epoxied down.  I suspect if I try to
pull them up, they will disintegrate.  I'll try it as a last resort.

I want to make a template of them so I can use a router to shape the
laminate.  I'm talking about the two outboard pieces in this picture.  The
two inboard pieces will be easy to shape.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EQAJuMC1mldwaXJKxyBaW8YScggQT7fC

Anybody got a slick way to make a template of two weird shaped thin pieces
of teak glued down?
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List 33-2 window replacement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Will have to beg for forgiveness here my my searches have not turned up the 
references I was seeking on this oft-visited subject.

Specifically - one lister has put a detailed explanation in flush port light 
replacement, using vhb tape I think.Could someone forward the link please?

Looking for that link or any other reference.  Almost ready to install my 
windows.

Am actually tempted to use high tensile  silicone.  I generally hate the stuff, 
but one of my windows had been installed this way by the po - poor job but 
quite secure, no leaks and impossible to remove...  until severed with a 
razor-knife.  No gelcoat damage.  The other side was original - not so easy...

Thanks in advance, Dave.

33-2 windstar

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It will be a different color due to fading.

Rent or buy one or both of the gelcoat color books here:

https://www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat

Match the swatches by holding them at different spots on the boat during
different light conditions.  Order the best match.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 1:42 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1985 C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat
> is?  Its off white but having
> hard time matching.
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
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>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Removing bleed through from masking tape.

[Larry via CnC-List]

Hey Rod 
No, nope, no way Stay away from the knife!
I was a certified aircraft painter, while in the Navy! Went through their 
extensive school.
We would use a chemical, depending on paint type. If we ever scraped, we would 
use a piece of soft to hard plastic, sharpened like a chisel. As a last resort 
we would use a small piece of plexiglass, sharpened like a chisel!
The softer the better. The pain bleed usually does not adhere all that well, 
because that surface was not prepared like the area that was painted.
This is not knowing if the surface that was bled onto was painted also.
But the key is to use the least and work to the more aggressive. 

What I might suggest is using a plexiglass gleaner, on a soft rag, a couple of 
drops or just your hand. Little circles until the liquid disappears. I use it 
to take very light haze out of my motorcycle. Great stuff!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 18, 2020, at 11:31 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Just finished painting the three boot stripes on my C 99.  They look great 
> but as expected, although the Frog masking tape was great and left a sharp 
> lines there are a couple of areas where the paint bled through the making 
> tape.  Anyone have any secrets for cleaning that up, other than an exacto 
> knife and scraper?
>  
> Thanks
> Rod Stright
> C 99
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of General Gao via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: May-18-20 12:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: General Gao 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>  
> thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and 
> report back.
>  
> Stay safe!
>  
> Bo
>  
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel 
> transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect 
> transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>  
> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and 
> the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the 
> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what 
> happens.
>  
> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>  
> TROUBLESHOOTING 
>  
> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the 
> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-
>  
> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance 
> value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.
> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing 
> magnets.
> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should 
> get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked 
> up to display).
> 
> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter 
> to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as 
> usual-
>  
> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on 
> display, then the problem is in the display.
> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is 
> not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and 
> then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need 
> replacing.   
>  
>  
>  
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator 
> style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed 
> between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would be for 
> continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel 
> and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>  
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
>  
> 
> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when 
> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it 
> was always fun to peg it :)
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR 
> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973): 
> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
> >
> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35 
> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was 
> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night 
> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
> >
> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 

Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

What color it was When built is different than today I would believe. I’m 
planning on recording a small section forward. I 
Plan on using Quantum 99 topcoat. I ordered the swatch sheet. No two of us 
could nail it down but #1022 insignia white is what we’re going with.
Jon
Hideaway 35-3

Sent from my iPhone
 
> On May 18, 2020, at 2:42 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 1985 C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat is?  
> Its off white but having 
> hard time matching.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Put some dielectric grease on the connections ;)

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 3:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had resistance 
of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was turning fast 
(couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to sand the 
connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the connectors 
looked without rust, a bit surprised.

Thank you everyone for the kind help!

Stay safe, stay healthy.

Regards,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao 
mailto:general.z@gmail.com>> wrote:
thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and 
report back.

Stay safe!

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel 
transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect 
transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and 
the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the 
transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what 
happens.

From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

TROUBLESHOOTING

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the display. 
Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance 
value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.
a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing 
magnets.
b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should 
get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked 
up to display).
INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter to 
where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on 
display, then the problem is in the display.
B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is 
not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and 
then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need replacing.



On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator 
style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed 
between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would be for 
continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel 
and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
was always fun to peg it :)

Joe

Coquina

On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
> Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
> https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>
> The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
> Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
> needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
> use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>
> More info here: 
> https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>
> Ken H.
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Reporting back. followed the guide and verified the transmitter had
resistance of 1787ohms, verified there was VAC output when the paddle was
turning fast (couldn't get to the 5knots as boat is on land). Decided to
sand the connectors, and put it back, tested again, and it worked...the
connectors looked without rust, a bit surprised.

Thank you everyone for the kind help!

Stay safe, stay healthy.

Regards,

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 11:42 AM General Gao 
wrote:

> thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check
> and report back.
>
> Stay safe!
>
> Bo
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
>> the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
>> modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>>
>> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
>> and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
>> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
>> what happens.
>>
>> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>>
>> TROUBLESHOOTING
>>
>> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
>> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
>> problem-
>>
>> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
>> resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
>> paddlewheel.
>>
>> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
>> magnets.
>> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
>>
>> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
>> should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
>> (not hooked up to display).
>>
>> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
>> voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
>> or sail as usual-
>>
>> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
>> display, then the problem is in the display.
>> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the
>> paddlewheel is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it
>> spins freely, and then try again. If the results are the same then
>> paddlewheel may need replacing.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
>>> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
>>> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
>>> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
>>> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
 we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
 was always fun to peg it :)

 Joe

 Coquina

 On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
 > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for
 SR
 > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
 > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
 >
 > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
 > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
 > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
 > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
 >
 > More info here:
 https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
 >
 > Ken H.
 >

 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every 

Stus-List Gel coat

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

I have a 1985 C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat is?  Its 
off white but having hard time matching.Any help would be appreciated.
ThanksGerry FennesseyFianna ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Removing bleed through from masking tape.

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Just finished painting the three boot stripes on my C 99.  They look great 
but as expected, although the Frog masking tape was great and left a sharp 
lines there are a couple of areas where the paint bled through the making tape. 
 Anyone have any secrets for cleaning that up, other than an exacto knife and 
scraper?

 

Thanks

Rod Stright

C 99 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of General Gao via 
CnC-List
Sent: May-18-20 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and 
report back.

 

Stay safe!

 

Bo

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel 
transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect 
transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

 

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and 
the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the 
transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what 
happens.

 

>From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

 

TROUBLESHOOTING 

 

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the display. 
Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-

 

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance 
value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.

a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing 
magnets.

b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should 
get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked 
up to display).

INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter to 
where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as usual-

 

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on 
display, then the problem is in the display.

B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is 
not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and 
then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need 
replacing.   

 

 

 

On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator 
style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed 
between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would be for 
continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin the wheel 
and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when 
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it 
was always fun to peg it :)

Joe

Coquina

On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR 
> Mariner Instruments (since 1973): 
> https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>
> The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35 
> Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was 
> needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night 
> use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>
> More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>
> Ken H.
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Wet deck repair

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Hi Charles, Mine was a grossly simplified description of the repair.  I was 
just trying to nudge a recollection.  The repair, as far as I recall, was very 
well done, I may be mistaken about the replacement of the anti skid section and 
they may have just used the area as a boundary.  My memory isn't what it used 
to beThanks, Danny
 Original message From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/18/20  8:26 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Wet deck repair 
  
   Hi Danny,
  
  
   The deck repair you describe sounds very weak since they omitted some very 
important steps.     Slapping the old deck skin down without doing the proper 
bonding will last for a while, but it does not reproduce the strength of the 
original deck and will very likely open up after some foot traffic flexes the 
deck a little.
  
  
   
  
  
   You need to grind a 12:1 bevel around the joint to bond the skins back 
together.  The bevel gets "over filled" with layers of glass cloth.  That gets 
ground flush and then fairing and sanding and fairing and sanding and fairing 
and sanding and finally the painting steps, with sanding between coats, to 
protect the epoxy from UVs.  As the fiberglass guy told me,  "There are many 
steps and you can't skip a step." 
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md
  
  
    
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   On May 17, 2020 at 5:36 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

   
   
Thankfully this is not for my boat!  
 

   
   
Dennis, although that Issa helpful, it isn't the project I was thinking of. 
 It was a side deck project and I seem to remember he uncovered a previous core 
repair and it was filled with scrap and covered back up... 
 

   
   
He cut the decks at these non skid edges, did the repair and replaced the 
same non skid sections for an undetectable repair. 
 

   
   
Ring a bell with anyone? 
 

   
   
Thanks, 

   
   
Danny 
 
 

   
   

 thanks, 
 


 Danny


   
   
   
   From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  

   Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020, 5:18 PM 

   To: CnClist 

   Cc: Dennis C. 

   Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet deck repair 
   
   
   
Was it this?

 


 https://drive.google..com/open?id=1hAJ2BrQ05fUCGNY5K9GySS2afCubC-2A 
 


 


 Dennis C.

   
   
   

 On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 1:24 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
 


 
  
   Hi everyone, 
  
  
   One of our listers did a really nice deck repair a while back and shared 
some great photos of the repair.  I can't going that thread just now.  I was 
wondering if anyone had that link that I could share with a tartan owner. 
  
  
   

   thanks, 
   Danny
  
 
  
  
  
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 Dennis C.
 
  Touche' 35-1 #83
 
 
  Mandeville, LA
 

   



    


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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[General Gao via CnC-List]

thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check
and report back.

Stay safe!

Bo

On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
> the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
> modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>
> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
> and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
> what happens.
>
> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>
> TROUBLESHOOTING
>
> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
> problem-
>
> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
> resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
> paddlewheel.
>
> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
> magnets.
> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
>
> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
> should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
> (not hooked up to display).
>
> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
> voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
> or sail as usual-
>
> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
> display, then the problem is in the display.
> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel
> is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely,
> and then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need
> replacing.
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
>> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
>> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
>> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
>> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
>>> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
>>> was always fun to peg it :)
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>>> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
>>> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
>>> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>>> >
>>> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
>>> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
>>> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
>>> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>>> >
>>> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>>> >
>>> > Ken H.
>>> >
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

The old 33-1 oval aluminum windows of that vintage are a close match in size to 
one of the Lewmar frames (the same one they used on the J 35).  I replaced the 
frames on my ’78 34 (before they went to the go-fast windows), and the look 
stayed about the same – actually improved in my opinion.  However, as I recall 
the 35 of your vintage has a significantly longer window frame.  I’m not sure 
there’s a close off the shelf replacement.  Your plan of working with what you 
have and improving the seal sounds prudent.

 

I suggest 4200, not a silicon product, for the frame to deck seal.

 

Matt

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Sylvain Laplante 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 7:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sylvain Laplante 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

 

Hi,

Not sure if they are the same as in my 1975 27 but if so you can order the kit  
from Holland Marine Product or Southshore yacht 

There's the grey for the outside and a high density foam gasket for the inside 
, you don't need to remove the frame.

 

Sylvain C

 

 

On Sunday, May 17, 2020, 5:57:03 PM EDT, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will need 
new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure if there 
is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the frame to deck 
seal?

 

I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy, after 
stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to contain the 
epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there were wooden shims 
and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void is wide open.

 

I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless, but 
want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was 
thinking of buffing the frames to a shine, although not sure how long it would 
last...




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 3:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Tom,
 
Same concept here and this guy is a professionalI think.
 
https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8
 
 
Landfall 35
Westbrook, CT

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from
the paddlewheel transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more
modern hall effect transducer will have at least three wires (I think).

Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer
and the instrument will cause it all to not work.  We would just pull the
transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see
what happens.

>From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:

TROUBLESHOOTING

DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the
problem-

A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for
resistance value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the
paddlewheel.

a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
magnets.
b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.

B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You
should get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded
(not hooked up to display).

INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC
voltmeter to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor
or sail as usual-

A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
display, then the problem is in the display.
B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel
is not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely,
and then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need
replacing.




On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
> generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
> developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
> be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
> the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
>> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
>> was always fun to peg it :)
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
>> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
>> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
>> >
>> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
>> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
>> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
>> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
>> >
>> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
>> >
>> > Ken H.
>> >
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Wet deck repair

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,
The deck repair you describe sounds very weak since they omitted some very 
important steps. Slapping the old deck skin down without doing the proper 
bonding will last for a while, but it does not reproduce the strength of the 
original deck and will very likely open up after some foot traffic flexes the 
deck a little.

You need to grind a 12:1 bevel around the joint to bond the skins back 
together.  The bevel gets "over filled" with layers of glass cloth.  That gets 
ground flush and then fairing and sanding and fairing and sanding and fairing 
and sanding and finally the painting steps, with sanding between coats, to 
protect the epoxy from UVs.  As the fiberglass guy told me,  "There are many 
steps and you can't skip a step." 


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md




> On May 17, 2020 at 5:36 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thankfully this is not for my boat! 
> 
> Dennis, although that Issa helpful, it isn't the project I was thinking 
> of.  It was a side deck project and I seem to remember he uncovered a 
> previous core repair and it was filled with scrap and covered back up...
> 
> He cut the decks at these non skid edges, did the repair and replaced the 
> same non skid sections for an undetectable repair.
> 
> Ring a bell with anyone?
> 
> Thanks,
> Danny
> 
> thanks,
> Danny
> 
> 
> 
> -
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020, 5:18 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet deck repair
> 
> Was it this?
> 
> https://drive.google..com/open?id=1hAJ2BrQ05fUCGNY5K9GySS2afCubC-2A 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hAJ2BrQ05fUCGNY5K9GySS2afCubC-2A
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 1:24 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Hi everyone, 
> > One of our listers did a really nice deck repair a while back and 
> > shared some great photos of the repair.  I can't going that thread just 
> > now.  I was wondering if anyone had that link that I could share with a 
> > tartan owner. 
> > 
> > thanks,
> > Danny
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Top News - Sponsored By Newser 
> > https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part_medium=uol_campaign=rss_taglines_more
> > * Iran Bucks US Pressure, Sends Oil to Venezuela 
> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ec18128953b6128432est03duc1
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> > * Baseball May Return Without One Messy Tradition 
> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ec18128cce2c128432est03duc3
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top News - Sponsored By Newser 
> https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part_medium=uol_campaign=rss_taglines_more
> * Trump Fires Back Over Obama's Remarks 
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> * US Launches Another Mystery Rocket 
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ec1ae5b524d32e592cc4st04duc3
> ___ Thanks everyone for 
> supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly 
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> 


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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these
generator style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage
developed between the two?  I would expect that a simple initial test would
be for continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped.  Then spin
the wheel and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
> was always fun to peg it :)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
> >
> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was
> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
> >
> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when 
we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it 
was always fun to peg it :)


Joe

Coquina

On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR 
Mariner Instruments (since 1973): 
https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals


The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35 
Mk.I 1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was 
needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night 
use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.


More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf

Ken H.



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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Have you looked at this web page?  This takes yo to the manuals for SR
Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals

The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35 Mk.I
1973) was self powered.  In other words, no external power was needed
(except for the backlight for the instrument face for night use), the
paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.

More info here:  https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf

Ken H.

On Sun, 17 May 2020 at 21:19, General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I am coming back to the issue here. Tried to clean the paddle, the
> paddle looked pretty straight forward and rotates freely. The back of my
> speedometer has a name called "SR Instruments", no model name, which
> surprised me.
>
> Is there a way to diagnose the electronics? Just wanted to give it a try
> before biting the bullet.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 8:58 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Pitot tube knotmeters are found on fast powerboats and airplanes. They
>> don’t really work much below 10 knots and in both cases the tubes can get
>> plugged with bugs or seaweed.
>>
>> It took me literally years to find spares for my ancient S-H knotmeter
>> that has been out of production since the 1980s. The paddle wheel gets
>> clogged so easily I never leave it in anymore if not using it.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I*
>>
>> *www.dellabarba.com *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John
>> and Maryann Read via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2020 7:49 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* John and Maryann Read 
>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>>
>>
>>
>> Have had similar issues with my prior unit – Standard Horizon model 150
>> which went out of production some 15 years ago and parts are hard to come
>> by and only on flea bay.
>>
>> What brand and model is your speedometer?
>>
>> No – no tubes per se.  Yours is all electric.  The paddle wheel has a
>> small magnet in one of the blades.  As it rotates, the electric pulse is
>> picked up by the transducer creating an electrical pulse which is
>> transmitted via the wire to your bulkhead gauge.  The faster the wheel
>> turns the pulse increases and your gauge registers greater speed.
>>
>>
>>
>> Vast majority of issues are caused by growth around the blades, the blade
>> shaft or water facing of the transducer.  Ensure this is absolutely clean
>> and blades turn freely.  Normally requires cleaning several times each
>> season.  If this is good, then your transducer may be worn out / faulty.
>> Virtually all are made by Airmar and their web site has an excellent cross
>> reference of your unit to their current part number.  This will require re
>> running the wire to your gauge which is often PITA and involves boat yoga.
>> In my case this fixed the problem.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I had problem with  other units of my instruments and parts were
>> nowhere to be found, Santa was very nice and provided a new suite with all
>> the latest whiz bang features
>>
>>
>>
>> Best of luck
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *General Gao via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, April 12, 2020 9:18 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* General Gao
>> *Subject:* Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>>
>>
>>
>> My speedometer was not behaving well last season. I am planning to fix it
>> myself. Googled the keyword, it came up a few documents suggesting blowing
>> the tube to clear clog. I looked at my gauge and where there sensor is, I
>> don't seem to find a tube there. Please see the pictures attached in the
>> link. Could someone help me with the diagnostics? Thank you in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nYSpxnzb1BImby5jz3ASLnSD3OYxKT3P
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bBgw-Ln_wr2Qae-GUCk3L_I_dAQO-ekY
>> 
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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