Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,

I had that issue last summer. Suspected both the heat exchanger and the hot
water tank. So I disconnected the coolant hoses from the hot water tank and
just connected them together (thereby just by-passing the HW tank).

Then I replaced the seals on the heat exchanger, which definitely needed
replacing!  That solved the problem.

I'll try re-connecting the HW tank this week to see if problem returns.  If
it does, then HW is also the culprit.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 12:03 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when the
> engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence of
> water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could the
> heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling system?
> Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for the leak?
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Yep, that's the one. Thanks Ken.

To clarify about the material, I said aluminum but it is likely something
else. Vendor said maybe magnesium would have a lower melting point.

Much appreciation!
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 5:27 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:

> This one?
>
> https://southshoreyachts.com/shop/round-corner-grab/
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 17:57, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.
>>
>> Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating
>> shop. Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and
>> were melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for
>> damage.
>>
>> Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Many thanks in advance.
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> 1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

You might try Lee Valley Tools catalog. Another guess, Restoration Hardware.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 8, 2020, at 5:28 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:


This one?

https://southshoreyachts.com/shop/round-corner-grab/

Ken H.

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 17:57, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.

Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating shop. 
Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and were 
melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for damage.

Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing

Many thanks in advance.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Yup.  One of the reasons I did not go for the 41 were running backs.Big PIA.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2020 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

Stupid things running backs. Make hardly no good difference on a C 35 foot 
boat. Always getting in the way. Few C sailors know how to use them. Good luck

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:28 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Possibly C changed the mast section, and started using running backs. Hardest 
thing about using running backs is remembering to relax the leeward one and 
tensioning the windward one when tacking and gybing.

Alan

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Swensen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Alan,
Mine is hull # 198
David
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Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Stupid things running backs. Make hardly no good difference on a C 35
foot boat. Always getting in the way. Few C sailors know how to use them.
Good luck

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:28 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Possibly C changed the mast section, and started using running backs.
> Hardest thing about using running backs is remembering to relax the leeward
> one and tensioning the windward one when tacking and gybing.
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>> Mine is hull # 198
>> David
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

WOW!  Of course it would take a Gloucesterman to do that :)

Do you have 30 MK I hull #9?  What is your complete HIN?

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 8, 2020, at 11:31 AM, Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy, the 30 is definitely a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Once you add in the 
> right size of ocean swells, you can move the bow wave back to the shrouds and 
> surf at well above 12 knots - have done so more than once on a broad reach 
> and even wing-on-wing in a storm out on the Atlantic.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek
> Ginkgo 30-9, Gloucester, MA


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Re: Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This one?

https://southshoreyachts.com/shop/round-corner-grab/

Ken H.

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 17:57, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.
>
> Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating
> shop. Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and
> were melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for
> damage.
>
> Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing
>
> Many thanks in advance.
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[sender via CnC-List]

Loss of coolant can sometimes be attributed to a failing head gasket.  Look
for milky engine oil, or evidence of the relieving through the coolant
reservoir, and inspect the head gasket externally.

If the gasket is failing, allowing coolant into the cylinder, then when the
engine is running, it pressurizes the coolant and exhaust gas bubbles out
via the coolant tank.  only a small amount of coolant will go into the
cylinder when the engine is not running.  Plug the open overflow tube with
tape and see if it gets blown off.

You can get test kits to see if the coolant is contaminated by exhaust gas.

If coolant is leaking into the oil sump, then the oil turns milky.

Hopefully it's the fresh water/coolant pump, as others have mentioned,
which easier to repair.

If it is a leaking head gasket, dealing with it asap may save you a bottom
end rebuild.
Eric

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:42 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a similar issue on my Westerbeke in my not-a-C  I have some
> suspicion of the water heater, but I don't notice anything in the water.
> It's a bit of a mystery at this point.  Let me know if you find it.
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:30 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> yes
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> Are you referring to the coolant?
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 9:03 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when
 the engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence
 of water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could
 the heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling
 system? Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for
 the leak?

 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR
 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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 --
>>> Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5zxDJCR4MXLVDmxmTUsiZQqnNio4EDu6JsDbSBsI_cN100eQYGbSpozHXScLTFD1_8w$
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.

Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating
shop. Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and
were melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for
damage.

Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing

Many thanks in advance.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
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Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

OK folks,

I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the
years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing a drive train rebuild and
with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as
well.  It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a
lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at
least 8 years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and
the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of
bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch
bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness
(about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before
destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.
Seems like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old
bearing getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one
and again no indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new
bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it
slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play
all the way around.  If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a
1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I looked online and sure enough the
only next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th
inch metal, 1/8th rubber).

This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a
few years ago.  I searched the archives and was unable to find the old
post.  I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google
searches only to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with
nothing in between.  I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but
unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for
calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options.  I know that the
bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and unnecessary.  I'd
like a better idea.


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List loosing water

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Alan.How bout doing a pressure test of the cooling system.   Had a similar 
problem on Alegriaevery winter, and only in the winter,  coolant would 
drain out from the reservoir.   The yard pressure tested my system and found a 
leak in the water pump and one hose needed tightening.   Also don't forget to 
bleed the coolant system by loosening the highest hosefor me it was the 
hose going to the hot water heaterwith the engine runninguntil it stops 
hissing and coolant appears.  This is also the fix for the hot water heater low 
temp cause the hot coolant is not circulating.$0.03Spencer Johnson84 LF 38 
"Alegria" #165Westerbeke 27Racine, WI ...someday... fuel tank leak :-(___

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Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[David Castor via CnC-List]

I have a similar issue on my Westerbeke in my not-a-C  I have some
suspicion of the water heater, but I don't notice anything in the water.
It's a bit of a mystery at this point.  Let me know if you find it.

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:30 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> yes
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> Are you referring to the coolant?
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 9:03 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when
>>> the engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence
>>> of water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could
>>> the heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling
>>> system? Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for
>>> the leak?
>>>
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>
>>> --
>> Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5zxDJCR4MXLVDmxmTUsiZQqnNio4EDu6JsDbSBsI_cN100eQYGbSpozHXScLTFD1_8w$
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

yes

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> Are you referring to the coolant?
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 9:03 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when the
>> engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence of
>> water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could the
>> heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling system?
>> Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for the leak?
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> --
> Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5zxDJCR4MXLVDmxmTUsiZQqnNio4EDu6JsDbSBsI_cN100eQYGbSpozHXScLTFD1_8w$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[David Castor via CnC-List]

Alan,

Are you referring to the coolant?

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 9:03 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when the
> engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence of
> water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could the
> heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling system?
> Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for the leak?
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Excuse the brevity. Sent from my phone.
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Re: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List]

Randy, the 30 is definitely a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Once you add in the 
right size of ocean swells, you can move the bow wave back to the shrouds and 
surf at well above 12 knots - have done so more than once on a broad reach and 
even wing-on-wing in a storm out on the Atlantic.

Rich Klajnscek
Ginkgo 30-9, Gloucester, MA

On Jun 8, 2020, at 12:54 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:
> 
> Hi Randy
> 
> Our previous boat (J27) hit record speed (for us) of 130 km/h.  Of course 
> that was behind a Chevy Silverado 2500HD with Duramax engine .
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: June 8, 2020 12:46 PM
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record
> 
> Sharing the thrill here.  Yesterday I hit 7.8 knots per GPS on my 30 MK I, 
> S/V Grenadine (hull #79).  It happened on port tack beam reach in 45 knots 
> true wind, under single-reefed main and working jib, with bright blue skies 
> and 85-degree temps.  My previous record was 7.6 knots, five years ago, on 
> starboard tack close reach in a 27mph gust under full main and #2 genoa.  
> That’s over a knot faster than her theoretical hull speed of 6.67 knots.
> 
> Has anyone broken 8 knots on a 30 MK I?
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Randy

Our previous boat (J27) hit record speed (for us) of 130 km/h.  Of course that 
was behind a Chevy Silverado 2500HD with Duramax engine .

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

Sharing the thrill here.  Yesterday I hit 7.8 knots per GPS on my 30 MK I, S/V 
Grenadine (hull #79).  It happened on port tack beam reach in 45 knots true 
wind, under single-reefed main and working jib, with bright blue skies and 
85-degree temps.  My previous record was 7.6 knots, five years ago, on 
starboard tack close reach in a 27mph gust under full main and #2 genoa.  
That’s over a knot faster than her theoretical hull speed of 6.67 knots.

Has anyone broken 8 knots on a 30 MK I?

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Thks for the info

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 10:47 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> During the rebuild, the fiberglass guy made extra efforts to dig out a
> V-groove around the shaft and repack it with some special flex epoxy.  I
> don't know where the leak occurred but regardless I still got water in the
> rudder.
>
> Josh
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 04:14 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Is there a way to prevent water from going inside the rudder or is that
>> normal
>> --
>> Joel Delamirande
>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Stus-List Losing Water

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when the
engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence of
water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could the
heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling system?
Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for the leak?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

David,
You have a circulating pump usually driven by a belt off of the crank
pulley, also this belt drives the alternator.  This pump usually doesn't
require any maintenance. There is a weep hole below the shaft to signal
when a seal has failed. There is a thermostat that controls the temperature
of the engine, on the output side of the fresh water side of the cooling
system before the coolant enters the heat exchanger. Once again not much
maintenance required unless the engine is either too hot or not getting to
temp, around 180 deg f.

Hope this helps.
Doug

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the
> cooling system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water
> very slowly. I now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this
> time of year and it was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with
> lots of hot water after an extended motoring session at speed as opposed to
> idling at the mooring. However, it made me think about this side of the
> cooling system.  Presumably, minimal fresh water circulates through the
> heat exchanger until the thermostat opens.  My question is, what drives
> that water circulation.  I know to check the impeller on the raw water pump
> side periodically, but I have seen no mention of doing the same for a water
> pump on the fresh water side.  That pump appears to be pretty inaccessible
> on my engine anyway and nothing in the routine maintenance section talks
> about periodic replacement of an impeller there.  So I am guessing it does
> not have an impeller that needs replacement, but I can’t find anything
> relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List polishing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I like Aquabuff 2000 for polishing and de-chalking gelcoat.  Moderate to
high speed polisher/buffer and lots of water.  I think it's better than 3M
Finesse It.

https://www.amazon.com/POLISHING-Compound-Fiberglass-Professional-Professionals/dp/B00N26AMDE


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Universal water pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the cooling 
system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water very slowly. I 
now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this time of year and it 
was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with lots of hot water after an 
extended motoring session at speed as opposed to idling at the mooring. 
However, it made me think about this side of the cooling system.  Presumably, 
minimal fresh water circulates through the heat exchanger until the thermostat 
opens.  My question is, what drives that water circulation.  I know to check 
the impeller on the raw water pump side periodically, but I have seen no 
mention of doing the same for a water pump on the fresh water side.  That pump 
appears to be pretty inaccessible on my engine anyway and nothing in the 
routine maintenance section talks about periodic replacement of an impeller 
there.  So I am guessing it does not have an impeller that needs replacement, 
but I can’t find anything relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Sharing the thrill here.  Yesterday I hit 7.8 knots per GPS on my 30 MK I, S/V 
Grenadine (hull #79).  It happened on port tack beam reach in 45 knots true 
wind, under single-reefed main and working jib, with bright blue skies and 
85-degree temps.  My previous record was 7.6 knots, five years ago, on 
starboard tack close reach in a 27mph gust under full main and #2 genoa.  
That’s over a knot faster than her theoretical hull speed of 6.67 knots.

Has anyone broken 8 knots on a 30 MK I?

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Possibly C changed the mast section, and started using running backs.
Hardest thing about using running backs is remembering to relax the leeward
one and tensioning the windward one when tacking and gybing.

Alan

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
> Mine is hull # 198
> David
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!6HZvWA_NWxdzh64ACMB-appjKHNUfgj1viJAP-vJII290QpQ-bceKw91wTVZvlxar8E$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

During the rebuild, the fiberglass guy made extra efforts to dig out a
V-groove around the shaft and repack it with some special flex epoxy.  I
don't know where the leak occurred but regardless I still got water in the
rudder.

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 04:14 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there a way to prevent water from going inside the rudder or is that
> normal
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I am quite confident in saying yes but should also warn that I am not a
Yanmar mechanic or engineer.

Here is a video that might help show the manufacturer's designed flow paths
and defend why you would be fine to plug the ports where the nipples go
into the engine.

https://youtu.be/ZFddsMQ52wk

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 10:39 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Josh
>
>
>
> So this means that if our hot water or bus heaters ever develop a coolant
> leak we can plug the hoses and engine will be okay?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 8, 2020 11:30 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass
>
>
>
> Yes.  They can be dead ends.  That is the way the system was designed by
> the engine manufacturer.  Owners simply steal water from the inlet and
> outlet side of circuit.  There are usually plugs where the pipe nipples tap
> into the engine.
>
>
>
> I have a few pictures and a video.  I'll see about sharing the ones of
> value.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 10:03 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
>
>
> Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat.
> Yours is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that
> when motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature".
> And it takes precious space.
>
>
>
> I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance
> with no Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if
> the hoses that go to the heater can be dead ends ?
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *De :* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Envoyé :* 8 juin 2020 09:46
> *À :* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc :* Bruno Lachance 
> *Objet :* RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass
>
>
>
> Hi Bruno
>
>
>
> We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already
> had a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the
> exchanger go to the bus heater and then from there to the hot water
> heater.  No Tees of any sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater
> adversely and works well for heating on cool fall days and for deliveries.
> Only issue would be that increased hose runs and number of fittings
> increases chance of a coolant leak at some point
>
>
>
> The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth
> blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to
> your C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and
> shortens the length of hos run as much as possible
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Bruno
> Lachance via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Bruno Lachance 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T
> in the coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I
> guess the hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.
>
>
>
> So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember
> somebody here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water
> heater in case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is
> original it seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install
> them in line on each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with
> T fittings , engine side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I
> think it does't matter and that the engine system does not depend on this
> but i want to be sure.
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

ok, that is good confirmation!

So then i will install the two valves i have on each leg and will have the 
option to close the circuit to the water heater. The cooling system will see 
deads ends just like the plugs on the engine.

Thank you all. This list has done it again!


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 10:32
À : C List 
Cc : Josh Muckley 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

Here you can see the plugs circled in red.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10ZcACLrWZObvSWoSzL2-Vnqud7zSk9Mv/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Josh

So this means that if our hot water or bus heaters ever develop a coolant leak 
we can plug the hoses and engine will be okay?

Mike

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 11:30 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

Yes.  They can be dead ends.  That is the way the system was designed by the 
engine manufacturer.  Owners simply steal water from the inlet and outlet side 
of circuit.  There are usually plugs where the pipe nipples tap into the engine.

I have a few pictures and a video.  I'll see about sharing the ones of value.

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 10:03 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Mike,

Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat. Yours 
is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that when 
motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature". And it 
takes precious space.

I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance with no 
Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if the hoses that 
go to the heater can be dead ends ?


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:46
À : 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc : Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>
Objet : RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass


Hi Bruno



We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already had 
a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the exchanger go to 
the bus heater and then from there to the hot water heater.  No Tees of any 
sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater adversely and works well for heating 
on cool fall days and for deliveries.  Only issue would be that increased hose 
runs and number of fittings increases chance of a coolant leak at some point



The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth 
blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to your 
C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and shortens 
the length of hos run as much as possible



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com





From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass





Hi,



I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.



So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.



Thank you.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc


___

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Here you can see the plugs circled in red.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10ZcACLrWZObvSWoSzL2-Vnqud7zSk9Mv/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi,
>
> I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T
> in the coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I
> guess the hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.
>
> So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember
> somebody here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water
> heater in case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is
> original it seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install
> them in line on each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with
> T fittings , engine side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I
> think it does't matter and that the engine system does not depend on this
> but i want to be sure.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Alan,
Mine is hull # 198
David
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yes.  They can be dead ends.  That is the way the system was designed by
the engine manufacturer.  Owners simply steal water from the inlet and
outlet side of circuit.  There are usually plugs where the pipe nipples tap
into the engine.

I have a few pictures and a video.  I'll see about sharing the ones of
value.

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 10:03 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat.
> Yours is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that
> when motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature".
> And it takes precious space.
>
> I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance
> with no Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if
> the hoses that go to the heater can be dead ends ?
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> --
> *De :* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Envoyé :* 8 juin 2020 09:46
> *À :* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc :* Bruno Lachance 
> *Objet :* RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass
>
>
> Hi Bruno
>
>
>
> We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already
> had a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the
> exchanger go to the bus heater and then from there to the hot water
> heater.  No Tees of any sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater
> adversely and works well for heating on cool fall days and for deliveries.
> Only issue would be that increased hose runs and number of fittings
> increases chance of a coolant leak at some point
>
>
>
> The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth
> blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to
> your C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and
> shortens the length of hos run as much as possible
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Bruno
> Lachance via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Bruno Lachance 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T
> in the coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I
> guess the hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.
>
>
>
> So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember
> somebody here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water
> heater in case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is
> original it seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install
> them in line on each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with
> T fittings , engine side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I
> think it does't matter and that the engine system does not depend on this
> but i want to be sure.
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List White Rudders

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Black rudders matter. 

(Sorry, couldn’t resist)

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Jun 8, 2020, at 9:47 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hello all. Wondering what the group thinks about painting the rudders white?
I always did this on my 89 Ericson 32 as I was told they had issues. When we
bought our 89 37xl it was not white and left it that way. When we bought our
current 1979 36, it was white. The past two years I have painted it the same
blue as the bottom. One of the workers at my yard suggested I reconsider, as
he has seen C rudders fail due to sun/heat exposure while on land. Thanks!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2020 6:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 32

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh, so i do need to keep  a bypass loop... That makes sense, but 
then  it is more fittings and potential leaks. I was haapy to remove a bunch of 
fittings so i will need to think about it.

I do check my coolant level quite often so maybe i d'ont need this. Keep it 
simple!


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:59
À : C List 
Cc : Josh Muckley 
Objet : Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

If you want a bypass for the water heater, I suggest you use 2 isolation valves 
on each leg and a bypass between the two legs.  A total of 3 identical ball 
valves would be my choice.  This could accomplished with two 3-way valves as 
well but 3-way valves can lead to confusion and usually cost more.  Without the 
isolation valves down stream of the bypass then a leak in the water heater 
would still be pressurized.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat. Yours 
is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that when 
motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature". And it 
takes precious space.

I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance with no 
Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if the hoses that 
go to the heater can be dead ends ?


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc



De : Hoyt, Mike 
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:46
À : 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc : Bruno Lachance 
Objet : RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass


Hi Bruno



We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already had 
a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the exchanger go to 
the bus heater and then from there to the hot water heater.  No Tees of any 
sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater adversely and works well for heating 
on cool fall days and for deliveries.  Only issue would be that increased hose 
runs and number of fittings increases chance of a coolant leak at some point



The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth 
blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to your 
C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and shortens 
the length of hos run as much as possible



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com





From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass





Hi,



I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.



So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.



Thank you.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If you want a bypass for the water heater, I suggest you use 2 isolation
valves on each leg and a bypass between the two legs.  A total of 3
identical ball valves would be my choice.  This could accomplished with two
3-way valves as well but 3-way valves can lead to confusion and usually
cost more.  Without the isolation valves down stream of the bypass then a
leak in the water heater would still be pressurized.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 09:41 Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi,
>
> I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T
> in the coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I
> guess the hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.
>
> So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember
> somebody here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water
> heater in case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is
> original it seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install
> them in line on each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with
> T fittings , engine side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I
> think it does't matter and that the engine system does not depend on this
> but i want to be sure.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 1987 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List polishing

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I also agree with Rob – it does look like you are mixing old dirt in with the 
wax.

When I had to give mine a good cleaning, I used Softscrub and rinsed it off 
very well.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2020 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List polishing

 

Bo

I assume from the picture, the forward section is that which is yellowish.   
You used Meguair Wax #50 which is a combination cleaner and polish.   This, or 
similar products, may not be the best to start restoring a heavy oxidized 
gelcoat surface.

The combination cleaner and wax will lift out the dirt from the pores in the 
gelcoat and you are simply mixing them up in the one step product.   It might 
be best to first use a gelcoat cleaner only to remove the oxidation and dirt.  
My hull is white and every second year I use Collinite 920 Cleaner before I wax 
with Colilinite 925.  It is a 2 step process but you should not have the 
yellowish gelcoat if you do this.   Try using a cleaner only on the part you 
have already done to see what happens.


https://www.collinite.com/product-category/marine/


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S. 

On 6/6/2020 11:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List wrote:

Hi everyone,

 

The hull of my boat has not been polished/waxed for a few seasons (I don't 
believe the previous owner did anything in recent years) so the white hull is a 
bit oxidized and dull. Today my son helped me to polish the hull. We used the 
Meguair Wax #50, to my surprise, where it was polished (a small area) turned 
out to be a bit more yellowish than white. Is this expected? (I hope the 
picture is clear enough).

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BAiDMWmeSLHU3r-Gsh-N-f3B_iR4FU3J/view?usp=sharing

 

Or is it just I am not doing this correctly?

 

Thank you,

 

Bo

 

 





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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 32

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Hello all. Wondering what the group thinks about painting the rudders white?
I always did this on my 89 Ericson 32 as I was told they had issues. When we
bought our 89 37xl it was not white and left it that way. When we bought our
current 1979 36, it was white. The past two years I have painted it the same
blue as the bottom. One of the workers at my yard suggested I reconsider, as
he has seen C rudders fail due to sun/heat exposure while on land. Thanks!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2020 6:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 32

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bruno

We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already had 
a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the exchanger go to 
the bus heater and then from there to the hot water heater.  No Tees of any 
sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater adversely and works well for heating 
on cool fall days and for deliveries.  Only issue would be that increased hose 
runs and number of fittings increases chance of a coolant leak at some point

The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth 
blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to your 
C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and shortens 
the length of hos run as much as possible

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com


From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass


Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc

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Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.

So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.

Thank you.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


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Stus-List Water in rudder

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joel:

The usual way water water gets in the rudder in where the rudder post 
enters the rudder.  If you can apply a good water resistance sealant 
around the rudder post where it enters the rudder, that should help.


I go a slightly similar route.each Spring before launch, I pack that 
area with a water resistance axle grease.does it work, I really 
don't know,  however each Fall at haulout the grease is still packed in 
there and after 15 years I have not had a water/rudder problem and I do 
not drill holes in the bottom of the rudder to drain it annually.  I did 
drill 3 holes approx. 6 -7 years ago just to see if any water drained 
out and none did.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 6/8/2020 5:13 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote:
Is there a way to prevent water from going inside the rudder or is 
that normal

--
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *


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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

My experience -27 Mk III - has been to drain rye rudder each fall, I drilled 
holes and put set screws in for the season. About 2 cups is what drains out. 
Has worked for 20 years so far.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 8, 2020, at 7:42 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:


Seems to be a normal problem and from all the feedback on this list I decided 
to leave it alone rather than replace or attempt a rebuild and I just make sure 
I drain it in the winter.  I am pretty sure that the metal components in my 
rudder are already encapsulated based on a few exploratory holes I drilled and 
latter filled with thickened epoxy).  For the first two winters I drilled a 
hole into the foam near the bottom (about 3 1/2 inches up from the bottom in 
the middle of the rudder on my C is where the foam starts) and let it drain 
for the winter on the hard - then patched with epoxy and some barrier coat 
followed by bottom paint in the spring.  The first year, I also drilled a hole 
near the top but this didn't seem necessary as the water will eventually come 
out of the foam either way.  This spring I decided to install a removable plug 
which I made myself using https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K213 and 
https://www.mcmaster.com/4429k111 (I cut the pipe fitting in half and only used 
one end).  Drilled hole with appropriate hole saw, cleaned it up and bonded the 
fitting in using 5200.  I thought about using epoxy but figured that with 
different thermal coefficients the 5200 might be better.  I'll barrier coat and 
paint over it as usual.  Hopefully in the fall when back on the hard I can 
simply unscrew the plug and the pipe fitting will stay put.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Chuck and Graham,
Thanks for your reply.I do have a inner headstay which attaches between the
mast and the forward hatch.  I defiinitely have the runners, which are made
of rope. High tensile I hope. I read up on them last night. There is no
blocking system set up on the boat for the runners. I have read where some
people attach to the toe rail all the way back near the stearn. My boat has
large padeyes on each side of the deck about mid cabin. I assume this is
where the runners would attach. I will learn how to ajust these as I go.

The Isomat mast is pretty bendy. From the look of it, I am not t sure I
would feel good about climbing up there myself (230 lb.), which is a shame
becaue my mastead light isn't working. I bought the boat with the mast
stepped already. Hoping to wait til next fall to take it down. Surveyor
thought the rod rigging looked good.

Thanks.
David

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 9:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Hi David,
> My boat has both runners and checkstays but I have a bendy rig on a C
> 34R.
> Not sure my experience applies to your boat.
>
> Saildata shows the 35 MkIII without runners.
> https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-35-3
>
> Do you possibly have an inner headstay, (Solent) and the running backstays
> are meant to support that?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
>
> On June 7, 2020 at 8:01 PM David Swensen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am ticking away at the list of to-dos in order to get Freya off of the
> hard and in the water. Thoughts have gone to actually sailing her and not
> just all the things that need to be done to a boat that was left on the
> hard and forgotten for a few years.
> In looking at the rigging today, I was reminded that Freya has a set of
> running backstays. The previous owners raced her. I haven't sailed with
> running backstays since our old family Narrasketuck on the Great South Bay.
> Does anyone use these? If so, do you have a picture of how they are set up
> on the deck? Can I safely sail without them?
> Thanks for any input.
> David Swensen
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Seems to be a normal problem and from all the feedback on this list I
decided to leave it alone rather than replace or attempt a rebuild and I
just make sure I drain it in the winter.  I am pretty sure that the metal
components in my rudder are already encapsulated based on a few exploratory
holes I drilled and latter filled with thickened epoxy).  For the first two
winters I drilled a hole into the foam near the bottom (about 3 1/2 inches
up from the bottom in the middle of the rudder on my C is where the
foam starts) and let it drain for the winter on the hard - then patched
with epoxy and some barrier coat followed by bottom paint in the spring.
The first year, I also drilled a hole near the top but this didn't seem
necessary as the water will eventually come out of the foam either way.
This spring I decided to install a removable plug which I made myself using
https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K213 and https://www.mcmaster.com/4429k111 (I
cut the pipe fitting in half and only used one end).  Drilled hole with
appropriate hole saw, cleaned it up and bonded the fitting in using 5200.
I thought about using epoxy but figured that with different thermal
coefficients the 5200 might be better.  I'll barrier coat and paint over it
as usual.  Hopefully in the fall when back on the hard I can simply unscrew
the plug and the pipe fitting will stay put.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKIII

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

I have to say I didn't take all the Plexus off if you mean the hard brown 
stuff.  Took a lot, sanded the rest, smoothed the rest with epoxy with  404.  
Wet sanded 80 grit, then wiped with acetone.   

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 4:10 AM, Joel Delamirande via 
CnC-List wrote:   
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It's more or less a normal degradation - stated differently as "common
problem".  I had mine rebuilt at a considerable cost and only a few years
later it showed signs of having become water logged again.  Being water
logged is not really the problem, freezing and corrosion are.  I make sure
that my rudder does not freeze and as part of the rebuild the welds were
inspected and encapsulated.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 04:14 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there a way to prevent water from going inside the rudder or is that
> normal
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Water in rudder

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Is there a way to prevent water from going inside the rudder or is that
normal
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKIII

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Nice windows I’ll have to do mine too
Mine has been on the hard 6 - 7 years un protected
Is it hard to do fibreglass and gelcoat
Or can I just sand the old gel coat and reapply new one
It for the whole top deck and some part on the hull


On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:05 AM Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My window project snowballed into a similar paint the topsides and deck
> after some of the Plexus came out in big chunks. Those chunks needed to be
> filled which needed paint over top which looked way better than the old
> paint and so it started...
>
> Derek McLeod
> Aileron, 1983 C 29-2
> Toronto
>
> On Jun 7, 2020, at 9:34 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> wrote:
>
> Your portlights look great.  I've been working on mine and today finally
> removed all the old Plexus using a combination of heat gun and chisel and
> angle grinder with flap disc where the stuff was very thick.  Spent most of
> the day on it.  Hope my new ones look as good.  Have to wait till after I
> finish patching, fairing and painting.  I'm painting my deck to upgrade the
> non-skid which is mostly worn smooth.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
> On June 7, 2020 at 6:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> New portlight windows.  Finally got them installed!  Not perfect but huge,
> huge improvement.
> Locally cut acryllic grey 2064 tint, VHB tape, Dow Corning 795.  Worked
> great.
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WYCCczEPXAoEni186
> Peter C.
> 84 Landfall 35
> Westbrook, CT
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:01 AM, Steve Franks via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> Hey everyone
> I’m in the processing of purchasing a 1987 35 mkiii. It’ll be my second
> boat and plan to get it up to snuff for sea of Cortez later this year.
> On my short list is replacing the port light windows on both sides. Trying
> to see if anyone has a resource for replacements or a file I could shop
> around with to have new ones cut. Appreciate your help in advance. By the
> way I got a quote from leaky windows and they wanted 2k for the kit so
> that’s what I’m working with so far.
> Best
> Steve
> --
> Steve Franks
> 949.370.4563
> www.stevefranks.work
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>
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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