Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   Hi Eddie,
   
  
    
   
  
   I did it to my mark I within the last three years. Nearly 50 years without one but I'm glad i did it. If I don't have any pictures I can take some next weekend for you. 
   
  
    
   
  
   Bob
   
  
   Mystic
   
   
   
On 04/08/2024 9:00 AM EDT Glen Eddie via CnC-List  wrote:

   
 

   
 


Hello everyone, 
  
I was wondering whether anyone has installed a water intake filter system for the raw water intake on an atomic 4.  Specifically, the water thru haul is pretty close to the water pump hook up and any filter that is not an inline filter would require some right angles on the plumbing. 
  
Thanks.    
  
 
  
   

 
  
   

 
  
   

 Glen Eddie  


 
  
   

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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List winter storage

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April.  For those who 
store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do you 
loosen the shrouds for the winter?
 
Bob Mann
MysticPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C/now speed of tack turn

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

On my C mark I, I replaced the primary winches with Lewmar 42's.  I used to 
sail/race with a 170 but now our class has limited the largest sail to 155.  62 
yo and still occasionally single-hand in races.
 
Letting the jib/genoa backwind so the wind is pushing the bow into the turn 
before releasing the sheet helps, as well as then slowing the turn so the jib 
can be brought in quickly while not under as much pressure. Not much boat speed 
should be lost doing this.
 
Bob Mann
MysticPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: stove cover heat shield

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I have an Origo 3000 now, but it's missing the pot holders.  Anyone have the 
3000 or 1500 (single burner) and can take measurements of the holders for me?  
I'm making my own but would like them to be similar to the Origo ones.

Bob

> On 05/17/2023 12:08 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yep.  Still use it occasionally. 
> 
> Admiral and I are recovering hikers/backpackers.  We're familiar with 
> alcohol stoves.  They're just grown up versions of backpacking stoves.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, May 17, 2023 at 9:05 AM Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Does anyone else still have the original alcohol stove (other than 
> > me)?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Glen Eddie
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List stove cover heat shield

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My 35 mk I has a board that covers the stove/oven, and can be slid out of the 
way to use the stove.  The bottom of it is covered with what looks like 
aluminum foil, that is peeling off. What is this and how do I replace it?

Bob
Mystic
14032, DetroitPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I was at the boat Saturday -- yes, it has an M on the nut.

Great shake-down sail.  Winds were about 12 (no instruments hooked up yet) 
according to the yacht club's weather station and we were doing 7.4-7.7 (SOG 
according to GPS) with a 150 at about 50 degrees apparent.

Bob

> On 04/27/2023 4:46 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The one on my 35-1 is a Morch.  Bet yours is also.  Does the nut have an 
> "M" on it?
> 
> Here's a pic of it removed and stripped for painting.
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsRmxKZ0ttcXZUTlVIQ1E5c0FXOTdKRFRfNTRz/view?usp=share_link=0-fhweRaXy_gB6s8nr4W0Y0A
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>     Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 9:08 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Does anyone know the pedestal brand C used in 1971 (35 
> mk I)?  I've been talking with Edson and he doesn't believe it's one of 
> theirs.
> > 
> > Bob
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> > 
> > > 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I don't recall seeing anything on the nut but I'll double check.

Bob

> On 04/27/2023 4:46 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The one on my 35-1 is a Morch.  Bet yours is also.  Does the nut have an 
> "M" on it?
> 
> Here's a pic of it removed and stripped for painting.
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsRmxKZ0ttcXZUTlVIQ1E5c0FXOTdKRFRfNTRz/view?usp=share_link=0-fhweRaXy_gB6s8nr4W0Y0A
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>     Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 9:08 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Does anyone know the pedestal brand C used in 1971 (35 
> mk I)?  I've been talking with Edson and he doesn't believe it's one of 
> theirs.
> > 
> > Bob
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> > 
> > > 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Pedestal brand

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Does anyone know the pedestal brand C used in 1971 (35 mk I)?  I've been 
talking with Edson and he doesn't believe it's one of theirs.

BobPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bringing lines back to Cockpit.

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I did this on my 35-1 (called Mystic).  I used Garhauer too but this one: Deck 
Organizer 30-DO-QBI | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com) 
https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/deck-blocks-hardware-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/deck-organizers/deck-organizer-30-do-qbi/
 .  I chose a location about even with the front of the mid-boat hatch and 
angled them so the angle to mast was the same as the angle to the clutch.  
Check coach roof to make sure there's nothing in the way for where the bolts 
come through the deck.  I ended up with one bolt half on a molded edge.  I have 
the plastics caps for hiding the holes, if you want some.

Halyard length needs to be twice deck-to-masthead height + distance back to 
cockpit + about 6 feet.

Bob 

> On 03/30/2023 1:52 PM John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello. In the process of moving all my lines from the mast back to the 
> cockpit and wanted to see what others have done. All old winches and deck 
> gear is off. Also, I am going to replace my jib halyards (main, spin and 
> topping lift were already back to the cockpit on old blocks etc) if anyone 
> has an any measurements for the 36-1 halyards to the cockpit please let me 
> know.
> 
>  
> 
> For the new deck hardware.
> 
>  
> 
> I am thinking about using the following:
> 
>  
> 
> Deck Organizer 40-DO-QB | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com) 
> https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/deck-blocks-hardware-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/deck-organizers/deck-organizer-40-do-qb/
> 
> 
> Spinlock Mid-Size Boat Deck Organizer | Defender 
> https://defender.com/en_us/spinlock-mid-size-boat-deck-organizer
> 
> 
> Still looking at clutches, want quads and Spinlock/Lewmar/Garhauer have 
> them.
> 
>  
> 
> Bought two used Lewmar 30 ST for each clutch.
> 
>  
> 
> I am thinking I need to get both the deck organizers up near the mast 
> where the winches used to be and the clutch organizers to make sure that the 
> lines are not hitting up against the traveler base.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> John McCrea
> 
> Talisman
> 
> 1979 36-1
> 
> Mystic, CT
> 
>  
> 
>
> 
>
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sail costs

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I paid $5400 two years ago in Detroit for a lt/med 155 for my 35 mk I.

Bob

> On 03/18/2023 9:54 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Sail costs:  A new light air genoa was quoted at $5200 for my 36 footer, 
> so I decided instead to have repairs made to my old sails.   They repaired my 
> #2 for $700.  They will alter my #3 for a little more.  They are removing 
> horizontal battens and installing vertical battens, and adding UV, so it can 
> be furled.  I've chosen to use Chesapeake Sailmakers because they are service 
> oriented, came out and measured my rig before I spent any money, and they 
> took time to evaluate my sails and offer options.
> 
> Wonder what others are paying for new sails and/or repairs. 
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: UV Strip

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

my sock has a cinch line on the outside.  I also wrap a spinnaker halyard 
around it when I'm not there to keep it from beating up the sail.

Bob

> On 03/02/2023 11:10 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, my local sailmaker told me that socks beat up the sails when the 
> wind picks up.
> 
> 
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2023 10:45 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: UV Strip
> 
> 
> Bacon’s told me their price for the material had recently doubled, so 
> socks probably cost more too.
> 
> On the other hand a sock works for ALL sails, not just one, and you can 
> get it repaired without dragging the whole sail into the loft.
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> From: Richard Servance via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> Sent: Thursday, March 2, 2023 9:58 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> Cc: Richard Servance mailto:hicsai...@gmail.com >
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: UV Strip
> 
> 
> I just had North replace the UV cover on my 135%. It was a boat buck 
> ($1k). Hadn't heard of the sock method; so not sure if it's still an option 
> from them.
> 
> 
> Sail safe,
> 
> 
> Richard Servance
> 
> S/V Blue Heaven (C 34+)
> 
> 757-995-3416
> @svblueheaven
> Seattle, WA
> 
>
> 
> 
> On Thu, Mar 2, 2023, 6:26 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > I had the UV strip replaced on my 135% last year by Doyle Sails 
> > here...all in cost was $575 CDN .Old UV strip 12 to 13 years old and 
> > cracking/splitting.
> > 
> > Rob Abbott
> > AZURA
> > C 32 - #277
> > Halifax, N.S.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On 2023-03-02 9:09 a.m., Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > My post about this from last June:
> > > 
> > > “The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it 
> > > to Bacons to get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I 
> > > figured wrong, the estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!
> > > 
> > > Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like 
> > > a pretty good chunk of an entire sail!”
> > > 
> > > 
> > > That included about $375 worth of repairs, but still at about 
> > > $1000 for the UV strip I think it was double the last time I had that job 
> > > done.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Joe Della Barba
> > > 
> > > Coquina C 35 MK I
> > > 
> > > Kent Island MD USA
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> > 
> > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

For about $700 I had a jib sock made. I use it rather than having a sacrificial 
added to every sail.  Takes 10 minutes longer to head out and to pack up at the 
dock.

Bob

> On 03/01/2023 9:23 AM Steve Mallett via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> For my 32 jib, replacing the dacron UV strip was $550 plus tax CDN in 
> 2022. At local North Sails rep.
> 
> Steve Mallett
> Dartmouth, NS
> C Second Lady
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 1, 2023, 9:47 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List, 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Don,
> > 
> > You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling sail.
> > 
> > I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I couldn't 
> > find a solution that was cost effective. The costs of replacing the sun 
> > cover (and I wanted just a 
> > 
> > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Looking for prior owner of my 35 mk I

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

It was not.  Someone responded to me in the past, on some social media site and 
they had owned her for a number of years.  I've lost that contact information 
and I'm just trying to reach them again.

Bob

> On 01/24/2023 11:58 AM Dreuge  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> If the vessel is/was USCG documented then you can request an “Abstract of 
> Title” from the USCG.  
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
>     > > On Jan 23, 2023, at 8:43 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > At one time I virtually met one of the earliest owners of my boat 
> > and I'm hoping they're on this list.  I have a 1971 C mk I, hull number 
> > 85, and sail number 14032.  I bought her from Grand Bend, Ontario, Canada, 
> > but I believe that owner purchased her from Bay City, Michigan, USA, where 
> > she was named Decadence.  The hull is Fighting Lady Yellow, but was at one 
> > time a light blue.
> > 
> > Bob Mann
> > Detroit, MI
> > Mystic, 14032
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> > 
> > > 
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Looking for prior owner of my 35 mk I

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

At one time I virtually met one of the earliest owners of my boat and I'm 
hoping they're on this list.  I have a 1971 C mk I, hull number 85, and 
sail number 14032.  I bought her from Grand Bend, Ontario, Canada, but I 
believe that owner purchased her from Bay City, Michigan, USA, where she was 
named Decadence.  The hull is Fighting Lady Yellow, but was at one time a light 
blue.

Bob Mann
Detroit, MI
Mystic, 14032Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: C Symmetrical Spinnaker

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Andy,

my 35 mk I has an exit point at the same location but there's nothing there, 
just a rounded hole. lt works ok for me for the topping lift.

Bob

> On 01/16/2023 2:28 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Comments below.
> 
> 
> From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2023 2:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: and...@apwengineering.com
> Subject: Stus-List C Symmetrical Spinnaker
> 
> 
> Good day,
> 
> I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical spinnakers, 
> and time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was hoping for some input 
> from the group.
> 
> The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.
> 
>1. Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe 
> the purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the sail, and 
> also to prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up wind. I would think that 
> this needs to be disengaged to make gybing possible. Any suggestions other 
> than mounting a track on the cabin top?
> 
> Yes, you will need to be able to disengage the baby stay.  I have no 
> suggestions aside from a track.
> 
>1. Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip gybe. 
> End to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged. Does anybody have 
> any experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?
> 
> A dip gybe is common for that size boat.  I can envision a real 
> cluster-#@!& if you attempt end-to-end with a baby stay in the way.  Do you 
> mean “a symmetrical” instead of “asymmetrical”?
> 
>1. Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would 
> assume deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or another 
> option would be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy, with a forward lead, 
> as a downhaul. Not sure if the angle would be sufficient, probably OK though.
> 
> On my 42 Custom, I have a track running down the middle of the foredeck 
> (fore and aft).  I attach a block to the forward end of the track for the 
> “foreguy” (aka downhaul).  You could also place a piece of hardware on the 
> deck with a backing plate.  Leading the guy back to the cockpit without 
> rubbing on something an issue to consider.
> 
>1. Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would 
> assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but 
> wondering if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think there 
> would be but wanted to check
> 
> The mast exit block for my topping lift, which can also be used for a 
> staysail (not a tall boy), is also about 2/3 of the way up.  I suspect that’s 
> what your exit block is.
> 
>1. Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a single 
> attachment point head high(ish).
> 
> I have seen single pole attachments for smaller boats, but this will make 
> dipping the pole more difficult.  You need to raise the mast end to get 
> clearance at the forestay.
> 
> Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We will 
> do some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some input, or 
> some good online resources to help me make the decisions on what needs to be 
> done. Also we only have a pair of primaries and an addition pair is not in 
> the short term plan.
> 
> Maybe consider an asym given all the hardware you need to purchase and 
> install for a symmetrical.   Good luck!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: TowBoatUS is it worth it?

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Chuck,

unless you're going far and need a tow, it sounds like you've got your 
situations covered.  I've used them once, when I couldn't start the engine 
after a race. Of course, I was all of 1.5 miles off shore :(

I'm now doing longer races, including Port Huron to Mackinac.  A tow from 
anywhere back to my home port is well worth the cost of the insurance.

Bob
Mystic
Detroit

> On 01/14/2023 1:50 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Got a question for the shallow water sailors like those in Chesapeake Bay.
> 
> I'm thinking whether to buy TowBoatUS for peace of mind this coming 
> season.  I've owned my boat for twenty years and though I do run aground a 
> few times each year, I always get off faily easily by backing out or spinning 
> the keel free.My batteries are older and I might need a jump start after 
> anchoring out.  I keep a jumpstarter aboard for that situation and can easily 
> check the charge.
> 
> Are there any benefits I am missing that the membership provides?  
> TowBoatUS requires thirty days before benefits are effective, so February 
> looks a good time to join if I do.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance - again

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I'm in the process of getting quotes for my '71 C  One company will insure 
the hull to agreed value but not the rigging unless I get a rigging inspection.

Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit, MI

> On 01/03/2023 10:43 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Spars and rigging are usually depreciated 5% per year, but if the boat is 
> totaled, the boat, spars and rigging are covered for whatever hull insurance 
> coverage you have - no depreciation.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 7:33 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Happy New Year!
> > 
> > I've been looking for insurance to cover our boat in the Caribbean 
> > and Med.
> > 
> > READ THE POLICY BEFORE YOU BUY!
> > 
> > I got what I thought was a good quote through a British broker 
> > until I read that the value of the mast decreased by 5% per year - i.e. a 
> > 20 year old mast was not insured.  
> > 
> > Joel
> > Rule One Hylas 49
> > Former owner The Office C 35/3  
> > 
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > 
> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!swyHP5xr3SGkxmGXm7UfM-MwKjn7k8oGTWL1e8YejiJIo7nVsPnaSgodbprO6ZGQX8viYNdEeuvRVwusa5dLORo$
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> > 
> > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album 
> > site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

You should also consider covering it yourself, like this: Dress Up the Steering 
Wheel - Good Old Boat https://goodoldboat.com/dress-up-the-steering-wheel/

I bought a 1000' spool of round braided polyester to do mine, learned how to 
tie the turks-head and other knots, and did it as a winter project about 3 
years ago.  No signs yet of wear and I use the boat 50 times a year on great 
lakes. 

As I recall, the spool cost under $100 and it took me about 2 hours per section 
for each of the 8 sections and another 2 hours for each of the covering knots.  
I estimate I used less than 300' on my 36" wheel.

Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

> On 12/01/2022 2:07 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> For about the same cost, you might consider shipping the wheel off to 
> have it coated in a tough plastic material--forgot the name its been so long!
> 
> It was a PITA shipping the wheel (UPS did it without insisting it be in a 
> box) and it is not as traditional as leather but it will never wear out--mine 
> is going strong after at least 15 years. I had it covered in the same color 
> as the hull.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David Risch via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: David Risch 
> Sent: Thu, Dec 1, 2022 1:00 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover
> 
> Don’t forget the double sided tape to keep cover aligned.  I did and it 
> is a bit of a pain…
> 
> From: John Read via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 7:31 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: 'CHARLES SCHEAFFER' ; John Read 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover
> 
> Another thought used by my father back in the day was to get two 
> automobile steering wheel covers each ½ the circumference of the boat wheel, 
> cut each then glue together, use provided plastic “thread”.  Worked well and 
> not expensive.  As I recall they lasted quite a few years
> .
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> From: John Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2022 9:46 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> Cc: 'CHARLES SCHEAFFER'  mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net >; John Read  mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com >
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover
> 
> HI Chuck
> 
> Installed the Edson version on my 40” wheel about 20 years ago.  Held up 
> well and finally deteriorated so replaced last year with Edson.  I believe 
> theirs is elk hide??  Very satisfying winter indoor project
> 
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2022 7:02 PM
> To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net >
> Subject: Stus-List Leather wheel cover
> 
> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.  
> The Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of 
> stock.  Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there 
> better sources?
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Charlie Nelson
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Robert Mann
> 
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: mast blocks

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I have something similar now, but possibly my blocks are too small.  They are 
from Garhauer but only have two screws in each one.  The backing plates are 
bending and I've replaced several of the screws with rivets.

I don't see your blocks or mine in their catalog so I'm probably looking in the 
wrong place.

Bob

> On 10/31/2022 3:54 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> The plate should be a collar.  Not sure what you're trying to do, but if 
> you're adding halyard turning blocks, I strongly suggest you consider 
> attaching the turning blocks to the mast like this:
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=drivesdk=0-Eczz38t6Fiv9c9lVdMjQ4A
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=drivesdk=0-Eczz38t6Fiv9c9lVdMjQ4A
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=drivesdk=0-Eczz38t6Fiv9c9lVdMjQ4A
> 
> With this configuration, the load is carried by the mast, not the deck.  
> If halyard blocks are attached to the collar, the collar will be pulled 
> upward.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>     Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Oct 31, 2022, 12:31 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one 
> attaches turning blocks to?  I need to add one to my 35-1.  Does it attach to 
> the mast, deck, or deck collar?  I'd prefer not to add more holes to the deck.
> > 
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > 35-1 hull #85
> > 
> > > 

Stus-List Re: mast blocks

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Yes, like those!  Thank you

Bob

> On 10/31/2022 1:53 PM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Like these:
> https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/page/18/?_categories=mast-plates
> 
>     On 2022-10-31 14:31, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one 
> attaches turning blocks to?  I need to add one to my 35-1.  Does it attach to 
> the mast, deck, or deck collar?  I'd prefer not to add more holes to the deck.
> > 
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > 35-1 hull #85
> > 
> > > 
> -- 
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
> 

Stus-List mast blocks

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one attaches turning 
blocks to?  I need to add one to my 35-1.  Does it attach to the mast, deck, or 
deck collar?  I'd prefer not to add more holes to the deck.

Bob Mann
Mystic
35-1 hull #85

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   bed it comes in custom labeled cardboard packaging so it's not rebranded
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Bob Mann 
  
  
   Cc35 mk I
  
  
   
  
  
   
On 10/25/2022 7:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:
   
   

   
   

   
   
I cut out a larger opening in the floor to work on the mast step, I didn't
   
   
see how to do it otherwise.
   
   
The access to that forward bolt is not easy, trying to grind down there will
   
   
be quite the challenge if I have to get into it and no way is my new mast
   
   
coming out. On the good side I bet you could remove that forward bolt and
   
   
the keel would stay on just fine.
   
   

   
   

   
   
Joe Della Barba
   
   
Coquina C 35 MK I
   
   
Kent Island MD USA
   
   

   
   

   
   

   
   
-Original Message-
   
   
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
   
   
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2022 4:00 PM
   
   
To: steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
   
   
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
   
   
Subject: Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?
   
   

   
   
Steven,
   
   

   
   
I did leave the old wood in there.  Was a decision I had to make and wasn't
   
   
sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the pieces I
   
   
installed.  I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough.  I didn't have
   
   
a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I had the crunching
   
   
of the wood I put one in temporarily, maybe that's was done on your boat
   
   
also?
   
   

   
   
I just happened to do both the mast step and the bolt at the same time, I
   
   
think you could do them separately but access to the bolt was probably a lot
   
   
easier with the mast step removed.  I had my mast pulled to replace the
   
   
step, but I've heard suggestions that you could just raise it up and block
   
   
it from the deck, though I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that for any
   
   
length of time.
   
   

   
   
Getting the wood of the step out was easy, a Sawzall did the trick.
   
   
Getting something in was a lot more complicated as you cannot fit a wide
   
   
enough board through the opening in the cabin sole.  I used a fiberglass
   
   
cloth layup on a form across the bilge sump so I could get the cloth into
   
   
the space, I think I used 27 layers in one rather long layup.  I'd be happy
   
   
to go into more detail if you want to contact me offline.
   
   

   
   
Neil Gallagher
   
   
Weatherly, 35-1
   
   
Glen Cove NY
   
  
 

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

On my 35 mk I, I have a 4:1 and another 4:1 tweaker/fine tune adjustment.

Bob Mann
Mystic

> On 10/23/2022 3:25 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Great advice!
> 
> I think I will grab the 6:1 sheet and the 4:1 can go back to being a 
> preventer. If I really wanted to I guess I could swap them out as desired.
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2022 1:18 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang
> 
> 
> 4:1 is not enough in heavy air. As you increase the purchase (6:1), you 
> will have more friction which makes it more difficult to ease the sheet in 
> light air. Also, as you increase the purchase, you will have a longer sheet, 
> and it will take longer to sheet in and out. I have a 4:1 purchase plus a 
> mainsheet winch.  The winch gives me the extra strength I need in heavy air, 
> and the 4:1 (rather than 6:1) lets me sheet in and out faster. You have to 
> decide what is more important for you.
> 
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> 
> Rose City YC
> 
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Oct 23, 2022 at 9:37 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 
> > mainsheet and cam cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. 
> > The preventer has been on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, 
> > but looking at the mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious 
> > this IS a mainsheet so I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a 
> > light air test, I am loving the lack of friction compared to the stock 
> > system that goes up to the mast and back to a winch.
> > My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 
> > mainsheet for a reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to 
> > preventer duty easily enough.
> > 
> > While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with 
> > a spring, had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast 
> > that it had a significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no 
> > idea how I haven't stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard 
> > installed it ages ago and I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the 
> > line feeds to a turning block almost at the pivot point, changes in tension 
> > will be almost nonexistant.
> > 
> > 
> > Joe Della Barba
> > Coquina C 35 MK I
> > Kent Island MD USA
> > 
> > 
> > > 

Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   yes,  defective joker valve
   
  
  
   
On 08/30/2022 6:36 AM StrightR--- via CnC-List  wrote:
   
   

   
   

   
   
Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry bowl left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a defective Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem and if so what was the cure.

Thanks
Rod
   
  
 

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

 
 
  
   get a box larger than the winch and cut a hole in the bottom that is same size as winch base. Put towels in bottom of box so nothing bounces. Not you can safely take the winch apart and properly clean and grease.
   
  
  
   
On 07/13/2022 2:34 PM Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:
   
   

   
   

   
   
As a follow-up, I have one on my boat and can take one or more measurements if you want.


 
  From: Matthew via CnC-List  Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2022 2:33 PMTo: 'Stus-List' Cc: Matthew Subject: Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions
 


As I recall, there is an Australian winch company (ARCO?) that has drawings with specs from the old Barient winches.  The company also sells parts, but there’s the whole international customs thing.  There may also be some info on the C website.


 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2022 2:23 PMTo: Stus-List Cc: Della Barba, Joe Subject: Stus-List Barient 26 winch questions
 



 Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35 MK I?
 Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard can I still get more?
 Thanks!
 Joe
 Coquina

   
  
 

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Do away with the sacrificial altogether!  I bought a jib sock for my 35 in 
December 2017 for $580 from a small, local sailmaker.  A few tears in it but 
still going strong!

Bob Mann
Detroit

> On 06/20/2022 9:45 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had a “stick on” sacrificial cover attached to my 150 years ago.  I was 
> rounding Bloody Point on the Chesapeake in fairly strong winds when the cover 
> got attached to the shrouds instead of the sail.  Not a lot of fun as we 
> could only adjust our heading so much, we’re running out of “runway”, and the 
> sail was basically glued to the shroud.   I will NEVER use a glue on item 
> like that unless it is also sewn on as well. 
> 
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA 
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> 
> -
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, June 20, 2022 8:28:31 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover
> 
> U V cover replacement is by the foot. What else did they recommend?  New 
> webbing? Restitching?
> 
> On Mon, Jun 20, 2022 at 7:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!
> > On the other hand, isn't there some kind of a white sticky material 
> > you can buy and just put it on yourself? It sticks like the numbers or 
> > graphics. I'm pretty sure I had that on one of my leeches.
> > 
> > Bill Coleman
> > Entrada Erie PA 
> > 
> > On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to 
> > > Bacons to get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured 
> > > wrong, the estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!
> > > 
> > > Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like 
> > > a pretty good chunk of an entire sail!
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Joe Della Barba
> > > 
> > > Coquina C 35 MK I
> > > 
> > > Kent Island MD USA
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > --
> Joel
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: knot meter not working

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Issue solved.  Turns out when I updated the chart plotter, it disabled that 
instrument.  I turned them back on and all is good.

Something to keep in mind when doing updates.

Bob

> On 04/26/2022 10:41 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The transducer is made by Airmar in New Hampshire.  Airmar is owned by 
> Gemeco.  You might contact their tech support.  I've had the temp fail on 
> that model, but not all 3.  the warranty is 2 years from manufacture, not 
> install.  Sorry!
> 
> On Tue, Apr 26, 2022 at 10:37 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > It could be the transducer, or it could be the display. 
> If you know someone with B instruments, remove your display and connect it 
> to the other person's instruments. If it still doesn't work, it's the 
> display. if it does, it's the transducer. Usually when the transducer paddle 
> wheel isn't clean, the display shows 000, not ---. The transducer isn't 
> repairable. Check Amazon or eBay for a replacement.
> > 
> > Alan Bergen
> > 35 Mk III Thirsty
> > Rose City YC
> >     Portland, OR
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Tue, Apr 26, 2022 at 4:34 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > My speed/depth/temp thru-hull is now showing 
> > dashes instead of values.  It's the airmar DST800 that came with my B 
> > displays.  Can these be repaired or am I SOL?  Is there a number/email for 
> > B?  The local, official installer isn't worth crap so even though only 
> > ~25 months old probably not covered under warranty.
> > > 
> > > Bob
> > > Mystic
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
> 
> --
> Joel
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: knot meter not working

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

As detailed as I try to be, I know some pertinent information will be left off. 
 Such as the anemometer information still appears on my displays so I ruled out 
the network backbone.  I plugged the transducer cable into the opposite end of 
the network and still just dashes.  It's tri-data so depth/speed/temp and I get 
dashes for all three fields.

Bob

> On 04/26/2022 9:43 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Three dashes mean, "no-signal".  Check all your wire connections and make 
> sure the power and ground wires are clean and tight too.  Something is 
> probably loose.
> 
> Chuck S
> 
>     > >     On 04/26/2022 7:34 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > My speed/depth/temp thru-hull is now showing dashes instead of 
> > values.  It's the airmar DST800 that came with my B displays.  Can these 
> > be repaired or am I SOL?  Is there a number/email for B?  The local, 
> > official installer isn't worth crap so even though only ~25 months old 
> > probably not covered under warranty.
> > 
> > Bob
> > Mystic
> > 
> > > 

Stus-List knot meter not working

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My speed/depth/temp thru-hull is now showing dashes instead of values.  It's 
the airmar DST800 that came with my B displays.  Can these be repaired or am 
I SOL?  Is there a number/email for B?  The local, official installer isn't 
worth crap so even though only ~25 months old probably not covered under 
warranty.

Bob
Mystic

Stus-List Re: butyl tape supplier

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Everything I know about butyl tape comes from this site: 
https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

But I see a note there that the store is currently closed.

Bob

> On 04/24/2022 5:54 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to order Bed-It butyl tape?  Everything I tried was 
> deadend.  Please share a working link.
> 
> Chuck S
> 

Stus-List Re: Winch replacement

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I went with used Lewmar 44's.  Something in the 42-48 range should work just 
fine.

Bob
Mystic
C mk I
Detroit

> On 03/28/2022 5:47 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> Probably asked a lot before, but anyone know what winch would be a good 
> replacement for Barient 25? I’m wanting to upgrade the primaries on my C 34 
> which has the original 2 speed (but not self-tailing) winches.
> 
> I’m in Canada (nova Scotia) if that matters (in terms of where to order),  
> but will be making driving journey into South Carolina & Georgia in about a 
> week.
> 
> Thanks, Dean
> 
> 1980 C 34

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

This email that you just sent came to me as an html attachment.

Bob

> On 03/07/2022 4:54 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> I looked at the last 7-8 emails on this issue.  I'm not having any issues 
> with them on my laptop using web based gmail.
> 
> However, I looked at the same emails on my iPhone using the IOS mail 
> function.  One showed up as "This message has no content".  It was Marek's.  
> He has a hotmail address.  It showed up fine on my laptop using web based 
> gmail.
> 
> One other issue I've been seeing.  I don't see my posts in my gmail email.  I 
> do see them when I go to the photoalbum site and look at the threads.
> 
> Dennis C.Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I believe the problem is on the sending end.  I only use comcast website to 
read my email on my laptop.  Some are recently coming as attachments in html 
and some as direct messages as they always have.

Bob

> On 03/07/2022 4:44 PM Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> I don't think the link and emails for the cutting boards have anything
> to do with our problems.  It is coincidental that both happened around
> the same time.
> 
> For many years, there was a link at the bottom of all emails and it did
> not present a problem.
> 
> Take a look at the messages below -- one is from an untrimmed message
> and the other from the current email.  Then look at the footer from this
> message.  See any differences? Does that give any indication that
> Outlook may be altering messages?
> 
> Stu
> 
> > Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> > https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7C7c228014dcbd43d1ef3308da006b8da2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637822759184515205%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=f2oEgNk9FKFMc09TnRa%2BVbXfQTCWH0vrOuF2ybKq9bI%3Dreserved=0
> > Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

hahaha, the original thread was about my '71, which doesn't have glass. It's 
more of an original hatch cover made from fiberglass that covers a 2" tall lip 
all around the opening.

Bob

> On 02/19/2022 9:10 PM Andy Frame via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> Was this thread about a gasket to re-bed the hatch to the deck, or the
> seal integrated to the hatch frame that the lens makes contact with?
> 
> I must have lost track of it along the conversation, sorry.
> 
> I am in need of the gasket that the lens contacts to prevent water
> entry. The frame is watertight.
> 
> 
> --
> s/v MaryMe
> 1975 C 24
> Labelle, FL USA
> Amateur Radio WD4RCC
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I checked McMaster-Carr and what they have comes in 10,20, 50 or 100 foot 
lengths, so less of an issue now.

Bob
> On 02/13/2022 11:05 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> Um.  I guess you give it away?
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> 
> 
> >  
> >   The only downside is what you do with the 90+ feet of rubber you will 
> > have left over after you rebuild the hatch.
> >    
> >   Rick Brass
> >   Imzadi C 38 mk1
> >   la Belle Aurore C 25
> >   Washington, NC
> >    
> >    
> >   -Original Message-
> >   From: Stus-List
> >   Sent: Feb 12, 2022 1:51 PM
> >   To: Stus-List
> >   Cc: Bob Mann
> >   Subject: Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed
> >    
> >    
> >   The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can 
> > anyone suggest where I can find a replacement? Nothing I've seen at 
> > hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.
> >    
> >   regards,
> >   Bob Mann
> >   Mystic
> >   Detroit
> > 
> >

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores 
even comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List Re: The board

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

This one came through as a normal message on my laptop (which is all I use) 
whereas a bunch lately have come in as attachments.

Bob Mann

> On 02/02/2022 8:24 PM John Read via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> All messages of late on my cell have messages as normal text.  On my laptop
> the messages are now all as attachments.  Have gmail account and read thru
> Outlook.  Recent issue have not changed any settings
> 
> John Read
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2022 3:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Stus-List The board

Stus-List Re: PHRF named vessels

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My area now uses midwest PHRF: https://mwphrf.org/index.php/display-a-handicap

Bob Mann
Mystic
C mk I, hull #85

> On 02/02/2022 12:29 PM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> East coast Canada should all be here:
> https://www.sailnovascotiaydb.ca/yachts
> 
> Search on C and select all will give 156 entries...or adjust if you want a 
> specific model.
> 
> Except possibly Newfoundland...not sure if they use SailNS ratings or not.
> 
> Cheers,
>    Jeff Nelson
>    Muir Caileag
>    C 30 - 549 PHRF 177
>    Armdale Y.C.
> 
> On 2022-02-02 13:22, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck,
> > 
> > That will take some time to work it out.  What I have to do is go to 
> > each PHRF region and pull up the last couple of years PHRF rating records 
> > and sort on the C  During the winter a lot of the northern regions do 
> > maintenance/update their records so are not always available.  I will let 
> > you know if I come up with any new boats. I also noted that you tracking 
> > their PHRF rating, I will give you those numbers, but in most cases it is 
> > the adjusted number off the base rating.  PHRF-NB does show all three 
> > ratings ( Spin, non-spin, base).
> >  
> > Lastly, the US Sailing data base is really only a reference, since it 
> > is up to the individual PHRF regions to update their records in the US 
> > Sailing database.  The best I can tell very few regions are continuing to 
> > do that. Look at the dates when the data was entered.  This is mostly due 
> > to US Sailing lack of support to Offshore PHRF fleet.  US Sailing seems to 
> > be concentrating on the Olympics and IRC, ORC ratings, the big ticket 
> > items, due to limited staffing and funds.  For the last six months PHRF-NB 
> > has been trying to get the US Sailing's Offshore committee to sponsor a 
> > zoom/in-person meeting of all the regions to discuss the items of concern 
> > to the PHRF regions.  We offered to help organize such a meeting since they 
> > are local with HQ at Roger Williams Univ, in Bristol - multi emails, 
> > telcalls and in person with great words - but crickets.
> > 
> > Don Kern
> > Fireball, C Mk2
> > Commodore, PHRF-NB
> > Bristol, RI
> > 
> > 
> > On 2/1/2022 10:56 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote:
> > 
> > > > Hey Don,
> > > 
> > > I think I better understand your list of PHRF base ratings.  I 
> > > count 44 rated vessels.  My list shows only 24 rated vessels.  I wonder 
> > > if it wouldn't be too much trouble to generate a list of 34/36 vessels 
> > > with PHRF ratings.
> > > 
> > > It may locate a few more hulls.
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Chuck
> > > 
> > > >

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] mounting chart plotter at helm

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the input.

I should have added that I will be using the chartplotter for racing, and more 
for B's sail-steer information ( TWS, TWA, AWS, AWS, TWD, laylines, wind 
shift patterns, routing) than for the plotter aspect.

> On 12/03/2021 1:03 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
>   I have a fixed plotter at the nav table, I leave that running 
> (openplotter on a raspberry Pi) and when I need a chart at the helm while 
> steering, I use an iPad in a waterproof case, on a detachable ram mount.  The 
> iPad is really only used in tight quarters while steering so - like Joel- I 
> only view from the wheel.
>  The iPad stays below, charging, on another ram ball when not in use.  
> Prior to getting the Pi, the iPad was left running below but was moved to the 
> helm when needed.  
> The iPad connects the the network via wifi, the Pi via a USB gateway. 
> The iPad can be viewed from any angle when at the helm.  I imagined this 
> was good and useful at first but in reality i’ve never found the need.  
> Dave 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Dec 3, 2021, at 12:43 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > I have a RAM mount on the pedestal guard, but rarely 
> rotate the plotter.
> > 
> > Joel
> > 
> > On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 8:33 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I have a plotter at the helm of my 35 MK I. It faces aft, 
> > if I want to navigate from forward, like I do about 90% of the time, I look 
> > at the computer on the chart table or SeaIQ/Navionics on my iPad.
> > > If I rotated the helm plotter sideways I think the mainsheet 
> > > would get it.
> > > 
> > > Joe Della Barba
> > > Coquina
> > > 73 C 35 MK I
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List  > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2021 8:21 PM
> > > To: Stus-List  > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > Cc: Bob Mann  > > mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net >
> > > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List mounting chart plotter at helm
> > > 
> > > I was going to put another instrument display at the helm of 
> > > my 35 mk I, but realized a chartplotter was only a couple hundred more so 
> > > went that route. 
> > > 
> > > Any suggestions on how to mount it to my Edson pedestal so I 
> > > can rotate it sideways, for easy viewing from the coaming? I rarely steer 
> > > from behind the wheel so I want to see it from the sides.  The pedestal 
> > > is about the same height as the wheel (not my boat, but similar setup. I 
> > > don't have the top tray): 
> > > https://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/14/05/22/2012-110.jpg)
> > > 
> > > The chartplotter is the B Vulcan 9.
> > > 
> > > regards,
> > > Bob Mann
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > --
> > Joel
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mounting chart plotter at helm

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Mark,
interesting choice.  I've been using a ram mount on the sliding hatch for a 
hand-held GPS.  I might be able to re-purpose it for my new use.  Of course, 
one end was a suction cup so that would have to change.

Bob
> On 12/02/2021 9:38 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> Bob,
> 
> I installed a Garmin chartplotter (probably smaller) and the Autopilot 
> display/controls using RAM mounts and Scanstrut instrument pod. Most these 
> pods install directly to the binnacle guard, but you can fiddle around a bit 
> and mount it on a RAM mount with two swivel balls (round base with ball, 
> double socket arm and the 1" rail U-mount).
> 
> Some pictures here: 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/n77i7g6khqqc73f/20190804_144218.jpg?dl=0 and 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/c8538cz1ghvbxdn/20190726_212737.jpg?dl=0 
> 
> It was reasonably cost effective and it works well if you want to operate 
> either from behind the wheel or from the side coaming or even from in-front 
> of the wheel.
> 
> It worth the while to do some Internet shopping around, as the prices vary 
> quite a bit.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Marek
> 
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa ON
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2021 8:21 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bob Mann 
> Subject: Stus-List mounting chart plotter at helm
> 
> I was going to put another instrument display at the helm of my 35 mk I, but 
> realized a chartplotter was only a couple hundred more so went that route.  
> 
> Any suggestions on how to mount it to my Edson pedestal so I can rotate it 
> sideways, for easy viewing from the coaming? I rarely steer from behind the 
> wheel so I want to see it from the sides.  The pedestal is about the same 
> height as the wheel (not my boat, but similar setup. I don't have the top 
> tray): 
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi44.servimg.com%2Fu%2Ff44%2F17%2F14%2F05%2F22%2F2012-110.jpgdata=04%7C01%7C%7Cbfc9ec5355cf43bf2a3708d9b5fb2e7f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637740912688329476%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=PkMTJJWfnPjlpWNVSR2BewSDnICKEWk8UzScUKf58Ro%3Dreserved=0)
> 
> The chartplotter is the B Vulcan 9.
> 
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7Cbfc9ec5355cf43bf2a3708d9b5fb2e7f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637740912688329476%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=G2e5NEAaTPh8dFt6P50LdMmaaEEp1FuyP%2Fckrl8ARh8%3Dreserved=0
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List mounting chart plotter at helm

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I was going to put another instrument display at the helm of my 35 mk I, but 
realized a chartplotter was only a couple hundred more so went that route.  

Any suggestions on how to mount it to my Edson pedestal so I can rotate it 
sideways, for easy viewing from the coaming? I rarely steer from behind the 
wheel so I want to see it from the sides.  The pedestal is about the same 
height as the wheel (not my boat, but similar setup. I don't have the top 
tray): https://i44.servimg.com/u/f44/17/14/05/22/2012-110.jpg)

The chartplotter is the B Vulcan 9.

regards,
Bob Mann
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Don't do it.  Spend the few bucks and set it up right.  That little ring won't 
be able to take the pressure of a whisker pole.  I don't know what that ring 
could be used for, other than maybe holding a preventer that isn't deployed.

Bob

> On 11/18/2021 9:27 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I was wondering if you folks can give me some advice as to rigging a 
> whisker pole on our 37/40+.  The boat, which has spent a good part of its 
> time on the west coast of Florida, was previously named "Dagny" and saw its 
> share of races.  Yet, the boat does not have a whisker pole ring/car on the 
> front of the mast, and does not have a whisker pole onboard.  Nor does it 
> have the equipment for a spinnaker pole, though the boat came with a 
> symmetrical spinnaker.
> 
> I'd like to rig a whisker pole for use with our 150 Genoa and a large 
> asymmetrical spinnaker.  
> 
> Funny thing is, at the gooseneck, there is a bolt that holds the two 
> pieces together that has a ring mounted at the bottom.  I don't think it 
> would get the perfect angle, but would it be that easy to rig the pole to 
> that ring?  A photo of that bolt/ring can be found here:  
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
> 
> The 150 and the asymmetrical will both have the clew behind the mast most 
> if not all the time I would be using it.  In the case of the big 
> asymmetrical, I think it might be so far back as to bank up against the 
> rigging, though obviously I haven't used one on this boat as of yet.
> 
> Can anyone provide any insights?  
> 
> Thank you!!!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I sent my old ones from the masthead to Garhauer and they duplicated them for 
me.  About $65 each, several years ago.

> On 11/09/2021 2:58 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for some 2” sheaves for the end of my boom (4).  I believe 
> the old ones were Delrin or some sort of plastic and the sun took its tool.  
> I believe someone had a very good source for sheaves on the list.
> 
> 
> Rod Stright
> 
> Halifax
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Jeff,
You are correct in that it should be the leeward mark is at a bearing of 80*, 
and yes, leeward port layline in this example.

TWD and TWA are not the same.  TWA is a reference to the boat while TWD is a 
reference to compass headings.

"Since you likely know the course to the mark, and you've already determined 
your gybing range (80 deg).  Isn't it easier to add or subtract 80 to
your course to see if it matches the bearing to the mark?"  The point of the 
math was to get to knowing that +/- 80 as bearing from current heading. Now 
that we have the math we know for the future that 2*gybing angle is bearing to 
mark. Not everyone has a chart plotter, but my GPS will tell me bearing to the 
mark.  We don't know the course to the mark; we've calculated the bearing to 
the mark and adding/subtracting that from our current heading tells us the 
heading we'll be on after the gybe.

Course and TWD aren't constant and thus this isn't a perfect calculation.  The 
bearing to the mark is the theoretical moment at which we need to gybe before 
we've overstood the mark and sailed too far.  Rounding to port, we want to gybe 
before this bearing. Rounding to starboard, we want to gybe after this bearing.

>From the example, TWD is 270 and current course is 230, so off the wind [stern 
>true wind angle or STWA] by 40. The gybing angle is 2*STWA, or 80, so course 
>after gybe is 230+80, or 310.

A different example: TWD is 75 and current course is 135. STWA is 60 so gybing 
angle is 120, bearing to mark needs to be 120, and course after gybe is 15.

Just like tacking, experience will help to determine if a fudge factor needs to 
be added.

Bob

> On 10/12/2021 8:33 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I'm really not following your math here.
> Perhaps some clarification:
> TWA = True Wind Angle (I think you refer to that as TWD True Wind 
> Direction below) ie 270?
> Course  = 230 deg
> Tacking Angle = 80 deg
> New Course = 310 deg
> Course to Leeward Mark = ?
> 
> This statement is confusing to me:
> "So, when the windward mark is at a bearing of 80* I'm on the leeward 
> layline"
> In this example we are going to the Leeward Mark (downwind mark).  I 
> believe you are heading to the port layline,
> The windward mark would be the one you previously rounded.
> 
> With all of the above...It seems like an aweful lot of math to do in the 
> heat of the battle.  Since you likely know the
> course to the mark, and you've already determined your gybing range (80 
> deg).  Isn't it easier to add or subtract 80 to
> your course to see if it matches the bearing to the mark?  This  can be 
> achieved from your chart plotter BTW (Bearing to
> waypoint) or via handheld compass if you can see the mark.  Maybe that's 
> what the math below does, if I plugged in
> the right numbers, but the closest I could get was 180 - course (230) = 
> 310 but if I multiply that by 2 I get a course of
> 260 which wouldn't be your layline, as you need a course of 310.  Also, 
> if I use any of those course numbers, they will
> remain constant, whereas the bearing to the mark will constantly change 
> as you get further from the rhumbline (dead down wind).
> 
>     Cheers,
>    Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C - 549
>Armdale Yacht Club
> 
> On 2021-10-11 10:07 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > My geometry for calculating leeward layline:
> > If my ideal heading for the current conditions is 230* and TWD is 
> > 270*, that means my stern has to swing 40* to become dead downwind, and 
> > another 40* to get to the reciprocal course after the jibe.  In a perfect 
> > scenario, this means an 80* swing.  So, when the windward mark is at a 
> > bearing of 80* I'm on the leeward layline.  Bearing to the mark can thus be 
> > calculated as 2 x (180-TWA).
> >  
> > Bob
> > 
> > > > > On 10/08/2021 11:15 AM Bob Mann 
> >  mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > > I still need to review the geometry, but I believe that when 
> > > the bearing to the mark is equal to 180-TWA, one has reached the downwind 
> > > layline.  I also found that when the masthead is pointing at the mark, 
> > > that also indicates the layline has been reached.
> > >  
> > > Bob
> > > 
> > > > > > > On 10/06/2021 11:17 AM Jeff 
> > > Nelson via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > wrote:
&

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My geometry for calculating leeward layline:
If my ideal heading for the current conditions is 230* and TWD is 270*, that 
means my stern has to swing 40* to become dead downwind, and another 40* to get 
to the reciprocal course after the jibe.  In a perfect scenario, this means an 
80* swing.  So, when the windward mark is at a bearing of 80* I'm on the 
leeward layline.  Bearing to the mark can thus be calculated as 2 x (180-TWA).

Bob

> On 10/08/2021 11:15 AM Bob Mann  wrote:
>  
>  
> I still need to review the geometry, but I believe that when the bearing 
> to the mark is equal to 180-TWA, one has reached the downwind layline.  I 
> also found that when the masthead is pointing at the mark, that also 
> indicates the layline has been reached.
>  
> Bob
> 
> > > On 10/06/2021 11:17 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > Hmmm...Interesting question.
> > 
> > So, Ed's answer was pretty good, I'll add a few thoughts here:
> > 
> > AW isn't an ideal guide, True wind is what is needed so that you 
> > can keep the angle to true wind to be constant on
> > either Gybe, assuming you know what the best angle is.
> > If you can find polar's for your boat, they will give you an idea 
> > of ideal.
> > As Ed mentioned, VMG is your friend in determining what the best 
> > angle is (especially if no polars are available).
> > You can experiment in different wind speeds to find a reasonably 
> > good angle for windspeed and VMG.
> > 
> > Here's a good article to get you thinking:
> > http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.php
> > 
> > Hope this helps.
> > Jeff Nelson
> > Muir Caileag
> > C 30 549
> > Armdale Yacht Club
> > 
> > On 2021-10-06 12:02 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did 
> > it last weekend in a race and I believe I overstood the mark as we were 
> > sailing 110 AW before the gybe and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.
> > >  
> > > How does one determine when to gybe?
> > >  
> > > Bob
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> >  
> > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient
> > Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> > 
> > > 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I still need to review the geometry, but I believe that when the bearing to the 
mark is equal to 180-TWA, one has reached the downwind layline.  I also found 
that when the masthead is pointing at the mark, that also indicates the layline 
has been reached.

Bob

> On 10/06/2021 11:17 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hmmm...Interesting question.
> 
> So, Ed's answer was pretty good, I'll add a few thoughts here:
> 
> AW isn't an ideal guide, True wind is what is needed so that you can keep 
> the angle to true wind to be constant on
> either Gybe, assuming you know what the best angle is.
> If you can find polar's for your boat, they will give you an idea of 
> ideal.
> As Ed mentioned, VMG is your friend in determining what the best angle is 
> (especially if no polars are available).
> You can experiment in different wind speeds to find a reasonably good 
> angle for windspeed and VMG.
> 
> Here's a good article to get you thinking:
> http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.php
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Jeff Nelson
> Muir Caileag
>     C 30 549
>     Armdale Yacht Club
> 
> On 2021-10-06 12:02 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last 
> weekend in a race and I believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 
> AW before the gybe and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.
> >  
> > How does one determine when to gybe?
> >  
> > Bob
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > 
>  
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I don't understand how either answer is telling me it's time to gybe.

Bob

> On 10/06/2021 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to 
> destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long 
> channels and inlets with wind aligned with our course, but sometimes it's not 
> aligned. In these instances I'll have to try this trick for fooling the VMG 
> by giving it a waypoint at the far end of whatever channel we're navigating. 
> Of course, I'll have to read the B manual, as their UI is not that 
> intuitive, or things don't always work as you expect.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:30 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Bob,
> >  
> > First, let's define some terms.
> >  
> > VMG (wind based) - the component of your velocity DIRECTLY upwind 
> > or downwind.
> >  
> > WCV - waypoint closure velocity.  The component of your velocity 
> > headed directly at your mark (assuming it's set in your GPS).  This is 
> > often shown on most GPS systems as VMG.
> >  
> > Now, if you don't have an instrument system that calculates VMG, 
> > don't use GPS VMG (WCV).  The problem is that, as you approach the layline, 
> > WCV will tend to zero.  If you overstand and cross the layline, WCV will 
> > become negative.  While this is good information for when to tack or gybe, 
> > it's usually too late.
> >  
> > Here's how to fake your GPS into giving you VMG (wind based).  Set 
> > a waypoint well past the windward mark.  Let's assume the race committee 
> > sets a good W/L course with the windward mark directly upwind of the start. 
> >  Let's say the wind is from 000 and the windward mark is set at 000 for a 2 
> > mile leg.  Enter a waypoint in your GPS at 000 20 miles out.  By setting 
> > the waypoint so far out, WCV will approximate VMG.
> > --
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > 
> > On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 10:03 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did 
> > it last weekend in a race and I believe I overstood the mark as we were 
> > sailing 110 AW before the gybe and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.
> > >  
> > > How does one determine when to gybe?
> > >  
> > > Bob
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> >  
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List leeward layline

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last weekend in a race and I 
believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 AW before the gybe and 85 
AW heading directly to the mark.

How does one determine when to gybe?

BobThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 35 Mk I for sale

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

There is a C 35 mk I available for sale in Detroit area, Spirit.  The seller 
is motivated to move to his next boat.  Contact Cameron Lawrence
313-461-8288.

regards,
Bob MannThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: George Harding Cuthbertson's Binder #2 C 1969 - 1972

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Mine has a tag riveted to the pedestal: "C & C  35  85  71  N", and I do not 
have the C star on the hull, just the indented line below the rail with the 
gap for the name.

Bob

> On 06/21/2021 6:30 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> Well I can tell you what the project number is only for most models.  
> Actual production dates, the most accurate would be to find the HIN of each 
> model, then at least you would get the month/year the first hull was laid up
>  
> That number, I doubt there is a list… we’ll maybe on some dark wintery 
> night, with nothing to do ….
>  
> And Custom shop, seems not to have put HINs on the hulls.   HINs were not 
> mandatory in Canada till 1986
>  
> So if anyone has Hull #1 ( or 2,3) of a certain model… Please email me, I 
> can start the list …. We’ll I guess maybe we should also find the last of 
> each model…….  And it’s not even cold outside …..
>  
> JKC 
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
>     647 990 7752
> 
> 
> > > On Jun 21, 2021, at 5:47 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > Is it possible to find build or delivery dates for 
> specific models?  I have 35 mk I, hull #85.
> >  
> > Bob
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: George Harding Cuthbertson's Binder #2 C 1969 - 1972

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Is it possible to find build or delivery dates for specific models?  I have 35 
mk I, hull #85.

Bob

> On 06/21/2021 5:37 PM colin binkley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> JKC, Thank You for the binder post!! 
>   I own C 40c #3 ketch rig and am always on the look out for her 
> history. And there she is on page 62
>   Means a lot to me. 
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, June 21, 2021, 7:46 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I'll second that -  a fascinating exploration.
> >  
> > Thanks so much for making this available.
> >  
> > Dave
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > On Sun, 20 Jun 2021 at 11:58, schiller via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > JHC,
> > > 
> > > Thanks so much for posting this.  We knew that our first C 
> > > (1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7) was purchased, in Chicago, to race the 
> > > Chicago-Mackinaw Race.  I have look frequently to find race results to 
> > > see how she did.  Your post includes a write up on the 1971 race and 
> > > shows that Red Pepper finished 20th in Division 3, Section 5.
> > > 
> > > We loved our Redwing and were sorry to lose her but I'll also 
> > > say we like the step up in creature comforts of our C 35, Mark III.
> > > 
> > > Thanks again for going through all of the information and 
> > > posting it.
> > > 
> > > Neil Schiller
> > > 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> > > Whitehall, Michigan
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On 6/20/2021 8:30 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
> > > wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > In honour of Father's Day, here 
> > > is Binder #2. C 1969 - 1972.
> > > >  
> > > > https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3015985 
> > > > https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D023919_94423331_3015985?fbclid=IwAR3Fb2ot80VommW6y2OPBxqjgFCHeP377IsYDPxQrQGAMjrFKZ5E73U6rnE
> > > >  
> > > > The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes is trying to 
> > > > digitize all of the C drawings.
> > > > https://www.canadahelps.org/en/dn/60975 
> > > > https://www.canadahelps.org/en/dn/60975?fbclid=IwAR0PfQo_gCpDFtBJEhltCtsaAZN_9mTG_Dv7-u1LQcAU64sTRzEyaalOBlg
> > > >  
> > > > JKC
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
> > > > the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> > > > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > > 
> > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
> > > > contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want 
> > > > to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > >  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
> > > the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> > > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - 
> > > Stu
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 33,155%

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

If it's too tall in the hoist, wouldn't it also be too large for a 33?  Actual 
luff length would be better to post.

Bob

> On 06/15/2021 2:54 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> HI Jim
> 
>  
> 
> Tried attaching tack to deck and not the furler? – should fit if a tad 
> short
> 
>  
> 
> John Read
> 
>  
> 
> From: jim aridas via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2021 12:07 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe; jim aridas
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 33,155%
> 
>  
> 
> Any 33 owners looking for a laminate 155%. Not bad shape, light to med 
> air, no patches. Thought it would fit my 34 picked it up a few years ago. Too 
> tall in the hoist.
> 
> Have pics if interested.
> 
> Make a good beer can racer.
> 
> Message me if interested.
> 
> Thinking $300 plus shipping would be fair.
> 
> Located central nj
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Shroud tension

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I believe aft shrouds are for when running, so a little slack upwind is fine, 
maybe moving an inch or so. Forward lowers, almost no slack; uppers, no slack.  
Check the mast to see that it's still straight.

Bob Mann

> On 06/01/2021 9:49 AM WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Good morning,
>I dont have a loose gauge for my solid shrouds.   Wondering how much 
> slack do you see on leeward shrouds when on beam reach in 10 knots of wind?  
> Shrouds seem tight enough when at the dock, but a little floppy on leeward 
> side when sailing.
> Bill Walker 
> CnC 36-1
> Pentwater, Mi.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Changing subject when subject changes

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Please modify the subject line when changing the subject of your messages.

What either of these two (below) has to do with Rub rail gouge repair is beyond 
me. Personally, I'm more concerned when the original discussion is not 
something I'm interested in (and don't read the thread) but it changes to 
something that does interest me but I'll never see it because the subject line 
wasn't updated.

Bob

> On 05/09/2021 7:58 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I'm still getting the hang of coaxing the speed out of her, especially in 
> light air. Had a brief sail on a CM1200 race boat the other night, and it was 
> an eye opener - barely a breath of wind and we were making 3-4 knots 
> closehauled with a #4 jib. Closereaching in 10 knots we could make a steady 
> 7knots, and then we had a fun return making 10 knots in about 14-15 using the 
> huge A1 (1250sqft). Now I know why this boat leaves everyone in its wake! 
> Quite a ride.
> We looked at some really comfortable looking cruisers for our next boat, 
> but I still want something that can move in light air, yet be comfortable in 
> big seas... the search continues. Meanwhile, we'll enjoy what we have. :)
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 1:45 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Yes I agree very good. Everything about the way they 
> built only 147 35 MKII hulls was superb and has stood the test of time. Shear 
> lines are very appealing. The boat is quick yet has the “big boat” feel at 
> the helm. And rides the seas like a thoroughbred. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > > 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Alternate to Spartite

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My aft wedge (I only used four) slipped last season and cracked my liner. So 
last week I filled the partner all around with formula 27, sanded, then painted 
over it. I don't have any gap inside the partner, at least this year.  Boat is 
now in the water and mast is up but not properly sealed.  Spartite goes in 
sometime in the next week.

Bob 
Mystic 35-1
Lake St Clair

> On 04/27/2021 9:00 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I managed.  I'm on boat now.  Just looked at it.  Touche' has about a 
> finger width clearance between that bulkhead and mast.  There is about 
> 1/4-3/8 inch gap between headliner and mast that needs to be sealed.
>  
> I don't recall how I sealed it.  I suspect I jammed clay in there and 
> pushed it in the gap with a screwdriver or something.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 2:14 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Joe (and any other 35-1 owners),
> > 
> > I've looked at that as a sealer inside the deck ring at the 
> > partners, and I'm wondering how you managed to plug the bottom of the ring. 
> >  On my boat there's almost no clearance between the head's longitudinal 
> > bulkhead and the mast, were you able to work clay into that space?
> > 
> > Neil Gallagher
> > Weatherly 35-1
> > 
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Lake St.Clair

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Absolutely.  I have a 35-1 so very similar to your boat.  I'm on the American 
side, by the 9 mile tower (I know you can see it on clear days -- I have from 
Belle River).

Waves are frequently 1-2 ft except for chop from powerboats or freighter wakes.

Bob Mann
Mystic
'71 35-1

> On 04/21/2021 12:00 PM G Gao via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> Question to experienced sailors, I just got an opportunity to have a slip 
> on Lake St.Clair, Belle River marina, how have your experience been sailing 
> on Lake St.Clair?
>  
> We were on Lake Erie for a couple of years and my wife and son felt 
> sometimes the choppy waves were making them uncomfortable. Would Lake 
> St.Clair be better in that sense, as it is smaller?
>  
> Thank you,
>  
> Bo
> 
>  
> --
> 1974 C 35 MK2
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I just did this on my 35-1.  I taped a cutout of two layers of corrugated 
cardboard inside the opening, from the inside.  I fiberglassed over the outside 
with 8 layers of epoxied glass.  When setup, I removed the inner-most one layer 
of carboard and did it again.  When setup, I covered both sides with Evercoat 
Formula 27 (sands really nicely).  Next step, paing.

Bob Mann
Mystic

> On 04/20/2021 6:24 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Glass over the outside hole, and hang a picture over the inside. 
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> Rebecca Leah
> 1988 LF39 
>  
>  
>  Original message 
> From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/20/21 14:39 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randal Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads
>  
> Listers-
>  
> Grenadine is getting an instrument system update this year and, as part 
> of that, I’ll eventually want to glass over previous instrument holes in the 
> aft cabin wall.
>  
> Last night I watched this video  https://youtu.be/T4OHQDs8NKk, which is 
> good, but seems to assume only a single bulkhead - i.e. the “liner” inside 
> the cabin is not there, or is cut away (such as in the video) providing 
> access to the inside of the fiberglass cabin wall.
>  
> Does anyone here know how to neatly glass over the hole in both the 
> exterior wall and the interior liner?  If there’s no good / easy / neat way 
> to do it, I’ll follow the video above for the exterior wall, then just cover 
> the hole in the liner with a screwed-on piece of teak.
>  
> Thanks,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

For my 35 mk I I got them replaced by Garhauer.

Bob

> On 04/15/2021 4:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" 
> pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze 
> bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work. 
>  
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Handrail is probably epoxied onto deck.  Have you tried sliding a putty knife 
beneath each section?

> On 04/13/2021 5:07 PM General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> mine is wood external handrail. In the picture in this link, the hole in 
> the middle is where in the cabin handrail screw goes in; the two on the 
> outside were hidden under the cabin handrail, exposed after I took the it 
> off. I tried to see and feel, there was no metal inside.
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bS3eUTqnZ3ZGLnMtNmKw2Q4gB7Emy8UN/view?usp=sharing
>  
> Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated.
>  
> Thx.
>  
> Bo
> 
> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 1:26 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Mine and likely others have nuts welded(SS) or pressed 
> (wood) into the external handrail standoffs.
> >  
> > Thus a bolt/screw on the inside screws into these nuts--more or 
> > less!
> >  
> > I say this because depending on how well the cabin-top holes match 
> > the external hand rail standoffs, it may not be possible to get a 
> > bolt/screw into each standoff. If this is the case, some of the standoffs 
> > may not have bolts/screws in them.
> >  
> > In my case, with SS steel external rails and standoffs, there is no 
> > way to get a misaligned screw hole to accept a nut or screw, without re 
> > drilling a new hole or enlarging the original one.
> >  
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: General Gao via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: General Gao  > mailto:general.z@gmail.com >
> > Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2021 12:51 pm
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: handrail
> > 
> > So I took the handrail inside the cabin off, exposed the holes 
> > hidden, I assume those are for the handrail outside the cabin. There seems 
> > to be no screws in those holes. Is the outside handrail attached to the 
> > cabin with screws or something? Mine isn’t coming off yet.
> >  
> > Thx
> >  
> > Bo
> > 
> > On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 12:21 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > >  
> > > Agree, I said glue but always use varnish.
> > > Bill Walker 
> > >  
> > > On Monday, March 29, 2021, 06:47:16 AM EDT, James Hesketh via 
> > > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> > > 
> > > WILLIAM  wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > snip >> 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > After the glue dries use a  Sharp 
> > > chisel to level, a little sandpaper and the apply finish.
> > > > 
> > > > > > >  
> > > I'd always been told it's better to set bungs (the plugs) by 
> > > dipping them in varnish before tapping them into place. That way, the 
> > > varnish will act as a waterproofer and semi-adhesive, but then they can 
> > > be removed easily next time. With glue they would need to be drilled out.
> > >  
> > > Jim Hesketh
> > > C 26 Whisper
> > > Miami, FL
> > >  
> > >  
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - 
> > > Stu
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > >  
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- 

Stus-List Re: BILGE PUMP WHALE parts

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

related topic: My cockpit floor mounted whale pump gave out today.  Is there a 
specific model to look for parts?  Is there a model number on the pump itself?  
I'll be at the boat tomorrow so can look around.

Bob
35 mk I

> On 04/10/2021 12:37 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> I personally went with an electric Whale Gulper mounted out of the bilge 
> with a strainer and a typical float switch.  It may not pump as fast as the 
> centrifugal ones, but it pumps out nearly all the water, it's much harder to 
> clog the pickup, there's little in the bilge water to corrode, and I think it 
> is much more reliable.  The centrifugal pumps never put out their rated 
> capacity.
> 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 Spinnaker

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I would think so.  My new A3 for my 35 mk I has a luff of 45

Bob

> On 04/01/2021 10:27 AM John Conklin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> David, 
> I assume this may work on My C 37 ? 
> Thanks 
> John Conklin
> 
> 
> > > On Apr 1, 2021, at 10:11 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > I am selling a used once or twice airrex 700 Spinnaker for a 
> > 40-foot sailboat it's on eBay if anybody's interested special pricing for 
> > friends
> > 
> > Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Put a small blade screwdriver against it and tap with a hammer.  The plug 
should split and most of it will pop out.  You'll have to buy replacement teak 
plugs for when you put it back together.

Bob

> On 03/28/2021 3:30 PM General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found 
> out this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin 
> where the handrail was. 
>  
> This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a 
> closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood  stud, do I just use 
> a knife to pop it off to access the screws?
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing
>  
> Thank you in advance.
>  
> Bo
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 offer

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

C mk I should go for $10-25,000, depending on condition and extras. We have 
two fleets of them, in Detroit and Sarnia, totaling 20ish.

Bob
Mystic, '71 35 mk 1

> On 03/23/2021 11:35 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> We are going to put an offer in. They agreed to through in a 10 foot Avon 
> RIB and outboard for a “strong offer”. Should I even bother with lowballing 
> at this point? The dinghy and engine would sell for quite a bit unless they 
> are beat to crap. The outfit selling this boat seems to keep their stuff in 
> top shape, so I doubt it. It is a 2007 boat with an 8 HP Yamaha. That will 
> probably get swapped for my 15 when we get home 
> 
> I have no real feel for what old boats sell for now. Sadly it seems a 
> chore to even give away a C 35, they seem to have aged out of the market.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 
> Kent Island MD USA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Messages going to spam

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I'm using comcast email and I get about 2-3 emails from the list in spam folder 
every day.  Sometimes it's only one response from a topic with multiple 
responses.

Bob Mann
Mystic

> On 03/19/2021 10:42 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Same here,  just checked
>  
> Allen Miles
> 
> On Fri, Mar 19, 2021, 10:00 AM Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Same for me.
> >  
> > Lisle
> > 
> > On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 9:12 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > In the last couple days, list messages have 
> > started ending up in my spam folder.  I use gmail.
> > >  
> > > Anyone else using gmail having this issue?
> > >  
> > > I'm re-creating my filter(s) to send them to my C list 
> > > folder.  Hopefully this will resolve the issue for me but I'm concerned 
> > > what gmail thinks the list emails are spam.
> > >  
> > > I have also clicked the "Report Not Spam" link in gmail.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > --
> > > Dennis C.
> > > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > > Mandeville, LA
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
> > > the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> > > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I heard back from my shipmate and the loft he heard/found bad things about was 
Peak Sails, not Precision.

My apologies to Precision sails for mistaking them.

BobThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I've emailed shipmate to find out exact name of company.  I don't want to 
badmouth a good company so hold my comment from previous email until I get 
confirmation.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 11:03 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I just heard about them from a shipmate, at least I think it's the same 
> company. 
>  
> DON'T
>  
> If you ever get your sails they will be great but significant issues in 
> getting the product.  Check them out on line and via Better Business Bureau.
>  
> Bob
> 
> > > On 03/15/2021 9:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > HI All
> > 
> > Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of 
> > Sydney BC in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or 
> > duties.  Offer different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is 
> > attractive – approx 2 boat buckshttp://www.precisionsailloft.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Any comments or experience?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > John and Maryann
> > 
> > Legacy III
> > 
> > 1982 C 34
> > 
> > Noank, CT
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> > with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I just heard about them from a shipmate, at least I think it's the same 
company. 

DON'T

If you ever get your sails they will be great but significant issues in getting 
the product.  Check them out on line and via Better Business Bureau.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 9:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> HI All
> 
> Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC 
> in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer 
> different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive – approx 2 
> boat buckshttp://www.precisionsailloft.com
> 
>  
> 
> Any comments or experience?
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: forestay tension

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

So with no sails on, the forestay should be slack?  How much?

Backstay will tighten the forestay and this should be adjusted during sailing, 
but how slack is it?  I have a turnbuckle on my forestay, inside the furler.  
I've tightened it in the past but I don't know what I'm doing.

Bob

> On 03/15/2021 5:09 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi Bob- Forestay tension is set primarily by backstay tension, so there 
> is no “tension setting”. AFAIK  Dave
> 
> 
> 
> > >         On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:07 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > 71' 35 mk I
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List forestay tension

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be?

Bob Mann
Mystic
71' 35 mk IThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

The one advantage to having an ATN-type tacker or pole setup is that it brings 
the tack closer to the centerline, which gets more sail out from behind the 
main.  It should give you more speed.

Both inside gybe and outside gybe are done outside the forestay.  Inside gybe 
has lazy sheet pass between the forestay and spinnaker; outside gybe has lazy 
sheet pass in front of spinnaker -- outside of everything.

Inside gybe is generally for lighter air.

Bob

> On 03/10/2021 8:57 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> I’m confused.  Maybe I have a different sail
>  
> Mine tacks down to the bow roller via a line led to the cockpit.  I can 
> ease the tack to ‘fly’ the kite somewhat.  Makes a huge difference when you 
> get it right.  I would not use a tacker point-loading  my furler extrusion as 
> the sail is nearly 1000 sqft, and it really drives the boat in a breeze.I 
> gybe it ahead of the forestay.   The sheets always end up wet, if only when I 
> douse the sail.  I may try to gybe behind the forestay but I expect it to get 
> stuck.  as I do this singlehanded usually would rather not have to clear it, 
> and I’m not sure there’s much advantage other than shorter sheets. (Too 
> late). I bought expensive lightweight sheets that are slightly too small for 
> my self trailers.  If I don’t wrap 4-5 times they can slip.  First world 
> problem. 
>  
> I only use a pole - a whisker pole  - when there’s very little breeze and 
> I’m off the wind.  When the boat is moving the apparent wind can be so little 
> in those conditions that the sail is hard to keep filled.I support the 
> pole with a topping lift to hold the sheet (and clew)  out.  This way I can 
> be as lazy as the weather.
>  
> Am self taught - Am I missing something?
>  
> Some pics 
>  
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/03/spinnaker-pics.html?m=1
>  
>  
> Dave.  33-2 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Mar 10, 2021, at 10:57 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > As I've said before, the Tacker puts a side load on your 
> furler foil.  Be careful!
> >  
> > Joel
> > 
> > On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:55 AM Matthew via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I'm anticipating the hard part will be getting the tack 
> > connected to the ATN Tacker under load before the jibe (which I haven't 
> > tried yet).  The issue will be how close I can get the tack to the Tacker 
> > shackle by manipulating the pole.  I'm thinking if we raise the mast end, 
> > this will bring the other end back to the forestay.  The Tacker can be 
> > freely adjusted up and down.  Reattaching the tack from the Tacker to the 
> > pole should be the easy part as I'll be using a guy that is not under load 
> > (at first), and the shackle on my Tacker is a Tylaska.
> > > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 9:56 AM
> > > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > > Cc: Jeff Nelson < jhnelso...@gmail.com 
> > > mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com >
> > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe
> > > 
> > > Cool.  All clear now.  I think the hard part will be getting 
> > > back from Tacker to pole under load after the gybe, but assuming the tack 
> > > goes to a winch will work just fine.
> > > Cheers,
> > >Jeff
> > > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > 
> >  
> > --
> > Joel
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

John,
our class of 35-1's in Detroit is going to poling out asymm sails this year.  
It's meant primarily for long legs where gybing shouldn't happen for a long 
time.  The pole will be kept down low, just above the pulpit. Using the pole 
keeps the tack on (near) the centerline of the boat.

We'll see how it goes.

Bob Mann
Mystic

> On 03/10/2021 11:56 AM Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> We use the pole down low, fixed in place, just to get the tack in front 
> of the forestay by a few inches.  We don’t adjust the pole unless jibing.
> 
>  
> 
> From: John McLaughlin via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:28 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: johnr...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe
> 
>  
> 
> I am the one who is confused. You do not fly an asymmetric spinnaker 
> using a spinnaker pole.
> As for the tack of an assym there are various arrangements. If the tack 
> is attached in some manner to the forestay, you obviously will be doing an 
> outside jibe. If the tack is attached foreword of the forestay the manner of 
> its attachment and gap between the forestay and luff of the spin may make an 
> inside jibe difficult although not much gap is required. 
> 
> However, regarding comments about jibing a pole: if you are flying a true 
> assym you never extend or support the windward corner with a pole in the 
> manner you do a symmetrical spinnaker or a jib or Genoa. A true assym is cut 
> to be flown w/o a pole and using a pole distorts the sail.
> 
> Cheers
> John
> 
> John McLaughlin
> 
> 
> -
> 
> On Wednesday, March 10, 2021 Matthew via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> Now I'm missing something.  My spin pole extends forward of the forestay, 
> thus necessitating an outside jibe if the tack is attached to/through the 
> pole.  I suppose it doesn't need to be on the weather side of the forestay if 
> it is "locked off" as you say.  However, I normally control the pole with a 
> guy, which won't work on the leeward side.  We don't use the asym often 
> enough to justify a sprit.
> 
>  
> 
> How do you "lock off" the pole?
> 
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 9:04 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Cc: Jeff Nelson mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com >
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe
> 
>  
> 
> Maybe I'm completely missing something, but why are we moving the pole on 
> an Asym gybe?
> 
> I would think you would just lock the pole off in the most forward 
> position, so it doesn't move and then just gybe the Asym either inside or 
> outside depending on your preference.  I prefer outsides, I find them easier 
> and less hassle generally than trying to squeeze that big sail through the 
> slot...but I've done both and they both work.
> 
>  
> 
> Cheers,
> 
>   Jeff Nelson
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray%20 Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetrical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Sheets need to be long enough to extend from clew of deployed sail, around 
forestay, back to turning block and up to sailing position, couple times around 
winch, and enough to hold onto plus some.

General guidelines are twice boat length.

Bob Mann

> On 03/08/2021 7:56 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Good descriptions of asym handling. Should be receiving a new asym for my 
> 37+...and will be my first time on this boat. Question for any other 37+ 
> skippers with asym rig...how long are your sheets? And what size line?  
> Thoughts?--
>  
>  
> 
> Chuck Saur
> 
> 517 490-5926 Cell
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Matthew, you probably want to have a short, dedicated gybing tack line.  Attach 
it prior to the gybe (I'm thinking "inside" of pole).  Gybe pole and pre-set 
it, then gybe sail.  When done, remove temporary tack line.

At least that's how I hope it will work.  I've never done it but will find out 
this spring.

Bob Mann
C mk I

> On 03/08/2021 2:30 PM Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> David:
> 
>  
> 
> I believe we discussed this issue not too long ago.  This 
> year I plan to use an ATN Tacker for asymm jibes.  Given that we use our spin 
> pole for the tack most of the time, the interesting part will be moving the 
> tack from the pole to the Tacker (then back to the pole again).
> 
>  
> 
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 10:34 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: Stus-List Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe
> 
>  
> 
> I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail) 
> to be able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this 
> technique have the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the 
> headstay.  That seems pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point 
> there.  My tack can either be attached directly to a padeye on the deck 
> behind the forestay or to a strap around the furled headsail and then to the 
> padeye.   I think that means that every time I jibe, the tack line will wrap 
> around the headstay.  Is that a problem?   I could douse with the sock and 
> redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for racing) or add an attachment point to 
> the pulpit for a block so I am forward of the headstay.  Am I missing 
> something?  How do others without sprits do this?  Dave
> 
>  
> 
> S/V Aries
> 
> 1990 C 34+
> 
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Check all intakes.  Sprinkle a powder around aft as water will leave traces and 
allow you to track it.  This works best for areas other than the shaft.

Bob

> On 03/02/2021 10:56 AM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> It's a mystery so far but I know it's salt and I know it's coming from 
> aft.
>  
> The yard said the dripless was fine but I'm thinking that's the culprit.
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature
> 
> 
> > > On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 10:41 AM, Matthew via CnC-List
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List sole painting

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I spilled epoxy on my cabin sole last year and it left an ugly stain.  What 
kind of paint does one use to repaint the floor?  Or, I've even thought about 
using teak-look carpeting (like this 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/35-X91-Brwon-Marine-Boat-Sheet-Flooring-Teak-EVA-Foam-Yacht-Teak-Decking-Self-Adhesive-Mat-6mm/780454422?wmlspartner=wmtlabs=43857005=wmtlabs=e=o=c=74904310235977=pla-4578503876215913===&+wl10=Walmart=780454422_1019550=boat%20deck%20material%20options=sem=ebe49b918c8e126b4284fbafc03f1152
 ).

Thoughts on either?

Bob MannThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Q3 No.  If both pumps are running simultaneously you probably won't have enough 
capacity in the primary hose to handle both.

Bob

> On 02/26/2021 11:42 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Practical Sailor had an article recently about bilge pumps and I have 
> three questions.
> 1.   They recommended two electric pumps: a lower capacity automatic as 
> deep in bilge as possible and a second higher capacity wired to a switch 
> higher up.  I am unconvinced by the logic.  I have had an automatic pump get 
> stuck on, so it ran until the battery ran out of juice.  I worry that will 
> happen more frequently with a deep automatic in the part of the bilge that 
> will most frequently have water and crud.  I would argue for the opposite 
> setup so I can pump out incidental rain water etc. at my discretion but the 
> automatic will kick in when there is high water.
> 2.  On my boat, I have a small floor panel I can remove to access the 
> bilge and my current pump (Whale super-sub which is the only pump I found 
> that fits) is deep in the narrow bilge there.  If I were to try to put a 
> second pump in, I think it would have to be somewhere else which means under 
> the flooring and inaccessible which seems like a bad idea.  That flooring is 
> a PITA to remove, since it is screwed down and to remove the flooring 
> adjacent to the small panel, where a pump would make sense, I have to unbolt 
> and support the table because the mast runs through it and the table bolts to 
> the flooring.  That takes about 30 min minimum so I don’t think that is a 
> good place for a pump one wants to access with some ease.  I could put it 
> further back under the rear flooring which is more easily removed, but it 
> would have to be a pump that sits low to fit.  Have others modified the floor 
> attachment to make access to the space underneath easier?  
> 3.  If one has two pumps, it is OK to tie the outlets together through a 
> Y valve with check valves?
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I understand about putting on non-skid, but isn't the complete deck painted 
first using the non-skid paint, prior to taping off and painting as non-skid? 
Or is the deck painted completely with one paint, taped off and non-skid 
painted using a different paint?

Bob

> On 02/25/2021 7:57 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Charlie,
> Same question for me (37). The previous owner did wonderful prep and 
> taping, but coverage is thin. I’ll probably put on another coat of Kiwi.
> 
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 4:10 PM cenelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I 
> had a applied by a local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and 
> it still is in great shape.
> >  
> > OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so 
> > little of it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and 
> > money consuming if done by a yard.
> >  
> > I am considering having it done by someone without taping all the 
> > non-skid off and using a high quality paint, single or 2 part paint and a 
> > brush.
> >  
> > Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or is it likely to 
> > be a disaster?
> >  
> > Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, manufacturers, etc.
> >  
> > Charlie Nelson
> > Water Phantom
> > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
> > https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > --
> Peter McMinn
> 
> > > 
> > > > >  _/)
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Digest emails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I get each email individually, no digest.

Bob Mann


Just checking – is anybody receiving digest emails with or without any problems.

Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Digest emails

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

There is also a  owners page on MeWe.  People from all groups keep directing 
me here.

Bob

> On 02/12/2021 6:03 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> There is a "C Sailboat Owners Group" on Facebook.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 1:57 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > You know stu i have been here for over 15 years and 
> contributing to folks from ny knowledge snd experiences thanks for making 
> that possible here. but i do not know about the digest. It’s a good group on 
> c sail boats and that’s great.  I benefit from facebook groups on things 
> that concern me. I benefit from this group too. Why is it not a fb page for 
> c owners
> > 
> > On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 10:17 AM Stu via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Just checking – is anybody receiving digest 
> > emails with or without any problems.
> > >  
> > > Stu
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4IPJzKRFvs5cWzP34NmvZP-L1xNxn1dyuvbrpfE2DoQBAEowmFBbYxEsgUuuU0DwvMA$
> > >Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4IPJzKRFvs5cWzP34NmvZP-L1xNxn1dyuvbrpfE2DoQBAEowmFBbYxEsgUuuU0DwvMA$
> >Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Interesting discussion!

On Lake St Clair our 35 mk I OD fleet sailed with 167 as #1.  This year we're 
going to 155 as largest headsail but I can still use 167 on Wednesday races , 
(rating is 132).  We see winds from 0 to 20 true but mostly race in 8-12

Bob Mann
s/v Mystic

> On 02/09/2021 3:20 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Charlie,
>  
> At some point you get a credit for a smaller headsail  I would check with 
> my local PHRF and go that way.  A 129 or 134 is a whole lot easier to manage 
> in 10 knots and you will be able to carry full sail just a little longer.  Or 
> keep the 155 just for racing and get a 130 for cruising.  My 2 cents.
>  
> Joel
> 
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 3:09 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > You know Charlie,
> > 
> > I am guessing you probably have a Blade, or #3, or something around 
> > 110 – Why don’t you just do a season with that, and weigh all the pros and 
> > cons?
> > 
> > On one hand, I used to have the 135-140, and never felt the need 
> > for anything bigger.  When the wind piped up, 18 – 20 out in the lake, we 
> > would just drop the main, and do great.  I never rolled it up, I just feel 
> > it make for a terrible shape, and also it ruins the sail. For an afternoon 
> > cruise, It was simple to go out  and not even touch the main.
> > 
> > On the other hand, I have been sailing with a 100% the last few 
> > years, and my crew is just blown away at how easy their job has become. It 
> > you are quick with the sheets on a tack, you almost don’t even need to 
> > crank! I think in a race where you are tacking a bit, this can make up for 
> > all the time we would spend cranking the last 5 feet, trying to get back up 
> > to speed, that was brutal!  Plus, that also weighed on my mind when I knew 
> > I needed to tack, but hung on B/C I knew how much we would lose in the 
> > tack. Also, if the crew was still huffing and puffing.   As far as 
> > cruising, I used to think I couldn’t sail with just a blade, but found out 
> > last year it doesn’t do that bad in a breeze. Can’t go 45° go with just a 
> > blade, but it will do 50, if there is a little breeze and you are feeling 
> > lazy.  One place you may lose a bit is going downwind wing and wing with a 
> > pole.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I just think trying it for awhile might open your eyes to things 
> > you hadn’t thought of. Plus, you will have another year to save up for the 
> > new sail !
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Bill Coleman
> > 
> > Entrada, Erie, PA
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ]
> > Sent: Monday, February 08, 2021 11:23 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: cenel...@aol.com mailto:cenel...@aol.com
> > Subject: Stus-List New sails, new wind
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Hello all listers. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I have a hypothetical for the racers among you. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I need to replace my 3DL headsail--its mostly patches after ~ 5 
> > years of club racing locally. This is about my 3rd laminate style 
> > headsail---and my last!
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I am probably going with the North 3D Nordac which has replaced the 
> > former 3DL technology with what they call a composite sail--not laminated 
> > but still built over a 3D mold of the sail shape desired--if I understand 
> > this correctly. I do not need the super light and costly Raw or Endurance.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Anyhow, I plan to move to a new sailing area off Southport, NC near 
> > Bald Head Island at the mouth of the Cape Fear River--basically on the NC 
> > coast.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > All my club racing to date has been in the Pamlico and Neuse 
> > Rivers, occasionally racing to Ocracoke across the Pamlico Sound. For these 
> > areas, a 155% headsail is the largest you can race with locally without 
> > penalty and so that is what I have always used. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > The North sail maker suggested because of the higher coastal winds 
> > that I may not need a 155% since the wind strength is higher at the coast. 
> > OTOH, a racer there uses a 155% headsail and says he does well with it. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I checked the historical average wind speed for Southport and New 
> > Bern and the coastal winds are from 20-25% higher than at New Bern. 
> > 
> > For instance, the avg. wind speed varies from 5.5-8.1 knots in New 
> > Bern vs. about 7-10 knots in Southport, or about 25% higher on average.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Further, I know from experience that my masthead rig becomes 

Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I was able to replace my jib masthead sheaves by sending them to Garhauer in 
California.  They made new ones and shipped  them out. Perfect fit.  I still 
have wire-to-rope for my main halyard.  That'll be next, as soon as I figure 
out how to change the exit block at the mast base.

Bob Mann

> On 01/30/2021 4:54 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> My all-rope main halyard is wearing somewhat after 4 seasons or so, and I 
> should probably replace it..   
> 
> It is often stated that when transitioning from wire/rope to all rope 
> halyards, that sheaves must be replaced with an appropriate type, presumably 
> without any wire groove.  
> 
> The main halyard is the widest of all of the 5 lines that pass over these 
> sheaves, and is as large an OD as the sheave can accommodate.   It is also 
> the most often used, and when at the dock is attached to the end of the boom, 
> so it is subject to chafe than the others, even in repose.
> 
> Is the wear I'm seeing a result of this shallow groove in the sheave, the 
> diameter of the halyard, or is it simply normal wear under the circumstances? 
> 
> If I should replace the sheave, can anyone suggest a source and type?  
> 
> pics here:
> 
>  
> 
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/new-sheaves.html
> 
> Thanks! 
> 
> Dave 33-2 Windstar.
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Video tape all starts from the committee boat and use these for review.  Always 
surprising how far from the line boats are at the start, especially in the 
middle of the line.

Our local group (multiple clubs in one organization) implemented golf-style 
handicapping last year. We call it Delta class.  Based on your result from last 
week your rating may change.  Unfortunately, I don't have more details on what 
they did but can put you in touch with someone.

Bob Mann
Detroit - DRYA

> On 01/30/2021 9:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I noticed looking at Bill’s link about his spinnaker that his club has 
> three racing fleets:  Spinnaker, Family JAM and Jib & Main .  I don’t know 
> what those represent, but am curious.
> I am in charge of racing for our club this year (for the first time) and 
> one of the things I am looking into is whether we can increase participation 
> in racing by our members.  One idea I am exploring is having a “green fleet” 
> for those new to raicng to get them invoved in a low stress format (primarily 
> start timing when you get to the line).  We would also have a pre and post 
> race skippers meeting/discussion to talk about the race, rules, etc..
> This group seems like a good place to get ideas as to what other clubs do 
> in terms of racing fleets and encouraging participation from those who are 
> not traditionally participating.  Has anything in particular worked well for 
> your club?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I was just pointed to this site for a description of the process.  Sounds 
pretty easy to gybe, for those who already do a full spinnaker.

http://www.epsails.com/Gybing_an_Asymmetric.htm

Bob

> On 01/30/2021 1:13 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
>  
> I actually have what my former sail maker called a reaching kite which I 
> think could be similar to your Single Luff Spinnaker although it might just 
> be a smaller symmetric kite--I need to have a close look at it. The sail 
> maker never referred to it as an A-kite.
>  
> My usual masthead kite is PHRF legal and with big shoulders for the 
> downwind stuff.  However, without a full AND knowledgeable crew and unless 
> the air is very light, it can be a bear to control, hoist, drop and jibe.  
> Unless the breeze is extremely light, reaching with it is courting disaster. 
>  
> With the pole forward as when reaching, the forces involved in flying it 
> as such that we have the additional complication of switching the kite 
> guy/sheets to our primary winches and clearing the headsail sheets from these 
> winches as we hoist and fly it and then have to reverse the sheets as we drop 
> it. Our kite sheets are only Lewmar 30s while the primary are Lewmar 50s.
>  
> I have a carbon pole so we usually end for end it (we tried dipping it 
> but my foredeck crew never quite got the hang of it!) but someone or 
> something usually goes awry and the fleet goes by us! Hence my interest in a 
> kite that is fast, legal and can be handled by less crew. 
>  
> Thanks for your help,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> New Bern, NC
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Sent: Sat, Jan 30, 2021 12:11 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole
> 
> I would say it is about the same size as the Sym sail, as the Luff is a 
> little longer, and the leech a little shorter.
> I wouldn’t compare it to any of the A-0 – A-3 sails, They seem to be 
> flatter.  When he first started making these, he just called them Single Luff 
> Spinnaker.  The leech is just slightly flatter.
>  
> And Yes, I would attach the tack to the bow, then dip the pole to the  
> other side, and reattach.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2021 11:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole
>  
> Great photos and speed evidently! 
>  
> Was your A sail larger than your S kite and what number would you 
> consider it--A0, A1, A2, etc?
>  
> If/when you need to jibe, do you reposition the pole to the other side of 
> the forestay similar to a usual S-kite jibe? I would think that the forestay 
> would be at risk if the pole had a chance to collide with it.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 3:57 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole
> 
> Yes, regulation J.
> In this picture, if it is big enough, looks like the pole was 3  feet 
> above the pulpit.
>  
> https://www.erieyachtclub.org/fleets/race-fleet-home-page
>  
> The sailmaker put about a 4 foot pennant on the tack, which I would use 
> when reaching.
> If you can open this, it show it with the pennant only.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/16BfCJCujdg653JXzAPWQr3mRtS0k0mw6/view?usp=sharing
>  
> If I was just going to stick the pole inside the pulpit, I would just 
> tack it to the bow instead of messing with the pole.  If I started out with 
> the pennant, and the wind went straight behind, I would use a 4 part downhaul 
> to hold the tack, while I attached the pole to it.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mainsail Gate

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Depends on whether you want the slides/slugs to drop down past the opening or 
not.  My cover fits much nicer when the mainsail drops down another 4-6 inches, 
so I have the gates on mine; I used to have the stop.

I attempted to make my own using a flooring carpet strip.  It worked for a week 
or two but the material is too pliable.

A lot depends on what your track opening looks like.

I ended up going with the vastly over-priced MG-S2L from RigRIte: 
https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/MetalMast_Spars/MetalMast_Mainsail_Gates.php

Bob


> On 01/29/2021 8:06 PM Daniel via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> I was looking for something like that.  Saw an idea for one on the c 
> web page. Then I stopped into the Binnacle and saw a little fitting that 
> screws into the groove/slot and simply blocks it off. Placed above the groove 
> after feeding the slides in, keeps them from falling back down and out of the 
> track.  $13 here in Halifax.  
> Daniel Willis
> Santiago
> 1973 C
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Jan 29, 2021, at 20:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > You might be well advised to make it yourself. In Canada, 
> I couldn't find one for any reasonable price. And when you try having it 
> delivered from the US, the shipping costs are ridiculous. 
> >  
> > Of course YMWV.
> >  
> > Marek 
> > 1994 C270 Legato 
> > Ottawa, ON
> >  
> >  
> >  Original message 
> > From: Jean Forgues via CnC-List 
> > Date: 2021-01-29 18:25 (GMT-05:00)
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: forgu...@videotron.ca
> > Subject: Stus-List Mainsail Gate
> >  
> > 
> > Bonjour
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > For my C, I am looking for a mainsail gate that allows the 
> > sail slides to slide past the gate entrance without falling out.  The gate 
> > is about 7cm long.  Any idea where I can find that?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Jean
> > 
> > Chicoutimi, Canada
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Sorry, that should have been directed to Charlie.

Bob

> On 01/29/2021 9:27 AM Bob Mann  wrote:
>  
>  
> Peter,  I haven't been able to use the A3 in our OD races -- it isn't 
> class legal until 2021.
>  
> Racing PHRF in Wednesday 6 mile races I've been using an asail which is 
> close to an A2 - very close to a symmetrical that was modified to be an 
> asail.  Using a tack line I've been very competitive.  I haven't used the 
> asail off the spinnaker pole yet, hence my query.
>  
> Bob
> 
> > > On 01/29/2021 7:41 AM Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > We set the pole at pulpit height with the downhaul cleated and it 
> > is essentially a sprit.  On a short leg in course racing we just use a 2’ 
> > tack line as pole setup takes a bit of time.  
> >  
> > With the pole that low the guy runs inside the lifelines
> >  
> > Peter Kirkwood 
> > 38 mk2
> >  
> > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:10 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Bob
> > >  
> > >         I’ve never used the pole like that.  I was thinking you would 
> > > leave it in place like a sprit. 
> > > 
> > > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:05 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > Joel, 
> > > >  
> > > > you're missing the part with the spinnaker pole. It 
> > > > also has to be moved to gybed position.
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > Bob
> > > > 
> > > > > > > > > On 01/28/2021 7:53 PM 
> > > > Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > >  
> > > > >  
> > > > > Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a 
> > > > > lot and let it float forward then bring it over and gybe the main 
> > > > >  
> > > > > Joel 
> > > > > 
> > > > > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via 
> > > > > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > No sock.
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > The board really only wanted to use A3 on 
> > > > > > races of 25nm or more, where there would be minimal gybing and long 
> > > > > > legs. I got them to change it to any race so that when we're 
> > > > > > short-handed we're still able to be competitive against full 
> > > > > > spinnakers
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > Bob
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > > >   
> > > > > >   On 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < 
> > > > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > > >  
> > > > > > >  
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > I would just go as far as I could, 
> > > > > > > pull the sissy sock down over it and just broad reach into the 
> > > > > > > leeward mark. If there was too much distance, I would then re-set 
> > > > > > > on the other side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why I 
> > > > > > > really want a top-down furler!
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > >  
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > >  
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Bill Coleman
> > > > > > > 
>

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Peter,  I haven't been able to use the A3 in our OD races -- it isn't class 
legal until 2021.

Racing PHRF in Wednesday 6 mile races I've been using an asail which is close 
to an A2 - very close to a symmetrical that was modified to be an asail.  Using 
a tack line I've been very competitive.  I haven't used the asail off the 
spinnaker pole yet, hence my query.

Bob

> On 01/29/2021 7:41 AM Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> We set the pole at pulpit height with the downhaul cleated and it is 
> essentially a sprit.  On a short leg in course racing we just use a 2’ tack 
> line as pole setup takes a bit of time.  
>  
> With the pole that low the guy runs inside the lifelines
>  
> Peter Kirkwood 
> 38 mk2
>  
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:10 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Bob
> >  
> > I’ve never used the pole like that.  I was thinking you would leave 
> > it in place like a sprit. 
> > 
> > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:05 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Joel, 
> > >  
> > > you're missing the part with the spinnaker pole. It also has 
> > > to be moved to gybed position.
> > >  
> > >  
> > > Bob
> > > 
> > > > > > > On 01/28/2021 7:53 PM Joel 
> > > Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > wrote:
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > >             Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a lot 
> > > > and let it float forward then bring it over and gybe the main 
> > > >  
> > > > Joel 
> > > > 
> > > > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > > > > > No sock.
> > > > >  
> > > > > The board really only wanted to use A3 on races 
> > > > > of 25nm or more, where there would be minimal gybing and long legs. I 
> > > > > got them to change it to any race so that when we're short-handed 
> > > > > we're still able to be competitive against full spinnakers
> > > > >  
> > > > > Bob
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > On 
> > > > > 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > >  
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > I would just go as far as I could, pull the 
> > > > > > sissy sock down over it and just broad reach into the leeward mark. 
> > > > > > If there was too much distance, I would then re-set on the other 
> > > > > > side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why I really want a 
> > > > > > top-down furler!
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Bill Coleman
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Entrada, Erie, PA
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> > > > > > [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ]
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
> > > > > > To: Stus-List
> > > > > > Cc: Bob Mann
> > > > > > 

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Thanks Peter.  Good to know about the "inside lifelines".

Bob

> On 01/29/2021 7:41 AM Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> We set the pole at pulpit height with the downhaul cleated and it is 
> essentially a sprit.  On a short leg in course racing we just use a 2’ tack 
> line as pole setup takes a bit of time.  
>  
> With the pole that low the guy runs inside the lifelines
>  
> Peter Kirkwood 
> 38 mk2
>  
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:10 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Bob
> >  
> > I’ve never used the pole like that.  I was thinking you would leave 
> > it in place like a sprit. 
> > 
> > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:05 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Joel, 
> > >  
> > > you're missing the part with the spinnaker pole. It also has 
> > > to be moved to gybed position.
> > >  
> > >  
> > > Bob
> > > 
> > > > > > > On 01/28/2021 7:53 PM Joel 
> > > Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > wrote:
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a lot 
> > > > and let it float forward then bring it over and gybe the main 
> > > >  
> > > > Joel 
> > > > 
> > > > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> > > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > > > > > No sock.
> > > > >  
> > > > > The board really only wanted to use A3 on races 
> > > > > of 25nm or more, where there would be minimal gybing and long legs. I 
> > > > > got them to change it to any race so that when we're short-handed 
> > > > > we're still able to be competitive against full spinnakers
> > > > >  
> > > > > Bob
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > > > On 
> > > > > 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > > >  
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > I would just go as far as I could, pull the 
> > > > > > sissy sock down over it and just broad reach into the leeward mark. 
> > > > > > If there was too much distance, I would then re-set on the other 
> > > > > > side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why I really want a 
> > > > > > top-down furler!
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Bill Coleman
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Entrada, Erie, PA
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
> > > > > > [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ]
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
> > > > > > To: Stus-List
> > > > > > Cc: Bob Mann
> > > > > > Subject: Stus-List asail flown from 
> > > > > > spinnaker pole
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >  
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > The Detroit area OD fleet of 

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Joel, 

you're missing the part with the spinnaker pole. It also has to be moved to 
gybed position.

Bob

> On 01/28/2021 7:53 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a lot and let it float 
> forward then bring it over and gybe the main 
>  
> Joel 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > No sock.
> >  
> > The board really only wanted to use A3 on races of 25nm or more, 
> > where there would be minimal gybing and long legs. I got them to change it 
> > to any race so that when we're short-handed we're still able to be 
> > competitive against full spinnakers
> >  
> > Bob
> > 
> > > > > On 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via 
> > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > > 
> > > I would just go as far as I could, pull the sissy sock down 
> > > over it and just broad reach into the leeward mark. If there was too much 
> > > distance, I would then re-set on the other side and pull the sock back 
> > > up,  THAT is why I really want a top-down furler!
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Bill Coleman
> > > 
> > > Entrada, Erie, PA
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > From: Bob Mann via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ]
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
> > > To: Stus-List
> > > Cc: Bob Mann
> > > Subject: Stus-List asail flown from spinnaker pole
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > The Detroit area OD fleet of 35 mk I's is allowing asails (A3 
> > > specifically) this year for the first time ever, but they must be flown 
> > > from the tack or spinnaker pole.  Does anyone know of any videos showing 
> > > asails flown from a spinnaker pole?  I'd especially like to see one being 
> > > gybed.  I've flown an A2 from my tack before, and gybed it, so that's not 
> > > an issue.  I think I have an idea of how it's done using a tack line and 
> > > spinnaker pole, but I'd like to "see" it done as well.  FWIW we do 
> > > dip-pole gybes.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Bob Mann
> > > 
> > > Mystic
> > > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list 
> > > to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the 
> > > list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > > Thanks - Stu
> > > 
> > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
> > > the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your 
> > > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > --
> Joel
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

No sock.

The board really only wanted to use A3 on races of 25nm or more, where there 
would be minimal gybing and long legs. I got them to change it to any race so 
that when we're short-handed we're still able to be competitive against full 
spinnakers

Bob

> On 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> I would just go as far as I could, pull the sissy sock down over it and 
> just broad reach into the leeward mark. If there was too much distance, I 
> would then re-set on the other side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why I 
> really want a top-down furler!
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> Entrada, Erie, PA
> 
>      
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Bob Mann via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Bob Mann
> Subject: Stus-List asail flown from spinnaker pole
> 
>  
> 
> The Detroit area OD fleet of 35 mk I's is allowing asails (A3 
> specifically) this year for the first time ever, but they must be flown from 
> the tack or spinnaker pole.  Does anyone know of any videos showing asails 
> flown from a spinnaker pole?  I'd especially like to see one being gybed.  
> I've flown an A2 from my tack before, and gybed it, so that's not an issue.  
> I think I have an idea of how it's done using a tack line and spinnaker pole, 
> but I'd like to "see" it done as well.  FWIW we do dip-pole gybes.
> 
>  
> 
> Bob Mann
> 
> Mystic
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

The Detroit area OD fleet of 35 mk I's is allowing asails (A3 specifically) 
this year for the first time ever, but they must be flown from the tack or 
spinnaker pole.  Does anyone know of any videos showing asails flown from a 
spinnaker pole?  I'd especially like to see one being gybed.  I've flown an A2 
from my tack before, and gybed it, so that's not an issue.  I think I have an 
idea of how it's done using a tack line and spinnaker pole, but I'd like to 
"see" it done as well.  FWIW we do dip-pole gybes.

Bob Mann
MysticThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mounting deck hardware

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I second use of Bedit. 

Bob Mann

> On 01/28/2021 11:52 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> There are a few, but BedIt is a good one.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> Entrada, Erie, PA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Blair Clark via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:27 AM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Blair Clark
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Mounting deck hardware
> 
>  
> 
> Not sure if brand matters but i used 1/2 * 1/8th
> 
>  
> 
> I found a good practice is to countersink gelcoat with 5/16th and apply 
> cone shape butyl tape to bolt.
> 
>  
> 
> last year I refitted deck hardware, genoa tracks and mast collar with 
> this approach and it worked great.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -
> 
> From: James Hesketh via CnC-List 
> Sent: January 28, 2021 12:01 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: James Hesketh 
> Subject: Stus-List Mounting deck hardware
> 
>  
> 
> I'm finishing a long repainting project and will be reinstalling all my 
> cleats, winches, tracks and such soon.
> 
>  
> 
> Within the past few months there was a discussion about mounting deck 
> hardware and which brand/type of Butyl Tape was preferred. I wrote it down 
> somewhere but time and dottage has carried that note away.
> 
>  
> 
> Could someone remind me which is the favored tape please?
> 
>  
> 
> TIA
> 
>  
> 
> Jim Hesketh
> 
> C 26 Whisper
> 
> Miami, FL
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Strong track, lazy jacks, stack pack

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I made lazy jacks for my Catalina 27.  I had cleats on the mast at boom height 
(from PO) on both sides so after the sail was dropped and strapped, I pulled 
the lazy jacks forward and covered the main with un-altered cover.

I no longer have pictures but will attempt to describe.

My lazy jacks were one continuous line. Port side, starting at mast cleat, go 
aft 1/3 distance of main to a micro turning block on the boom.  Next, up to a 
turning block hanging from a mast connection, then back to boom at 2/3 aft 
distance from mast.  There I had a small strap on the bottom of the boom, like 
a pipe clamp. The line passed through to starboard, then repeated the process.  
The turning block line hanging from the mast (one each side) was attached to a 
small strap on the mast, located about 2/3 up.

Bob Mann
Mystic
turning 50 yo this year! (the boat, not me. I'm passed that!)

> On 01/27/2021 8:24 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> The Tides Marine strong track is very pricey and my system works fine 
> without it.  If I had a full battan main I might consider one.
>  
> I am rigging lazy jacks this year to catch the main when I drop it.   I 
> expect I will need to alter the sail cover and instead, I'm considering 
> buying or making a stack pack instead.  Has anybody made their own or can 
> offer advice on those?
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
>  
>   
> 
> > > On 01/27/2021 8:11 PM John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > I would love a tides track as 90% of my sailing is solo (About 250% 
> > more than last season) 
> > I can hoist the main on my 37 from the cockpit except for the final 
> > Only 1 block at. Foot of mast straight shot to winch.
> > Issue I have is dropping and stacking solo amd why I really want 
> > the tides track too! 
> > But I was Quoted 3 boat $ bucks for that system  so other 
> > priorities first :( 
> > 
> > John Conklin 
> > S/V Halcyon 
> > S/V Heartbeat
> >  
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> > with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I've thought about something like this for the interior of my 35.  Ought to 
last forever down below.

Bob

> On 01/25/2021 4:36 PM George Cone via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Bruno,
> 
>  
> 
> I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
> planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
> concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active 
> retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more 
> to finish the job.
> 
>  
> 
> Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat 
> Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4" 
> https://www.amazon.com/CHURERSHINING-Decking-Marine-Flooring-Adhesive/dp/B07P62SWB4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1=boat+deck+covering=1611610224=8-2
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George Cone
> 
> C 40
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bruno Lachance 
> Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit
> 
>  
> 
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with 
> really good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the 
> cockpit sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are 
> made and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme 
> the templates and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious 
> templates,  I would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list 
> that have done the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from 
> a C 29 to a let's say 37.
> 
>  
> 
> I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor 
> deck as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more 
> comfy. I would prefer this to paint.
> 
>  
> 
> I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but 
> i want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you!
> 
>  
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> 
> Bécassin, C 33-2
> 
> New-Richmond, Qc
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 1

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Hi Glen,

I installed an automatic pump in my boat a couple years ago.  I ran 1" (I 
think) black hose aft, under the engine, and out the stern.  I didn't put it in 
the deepest part of the bilge.  When it stops cycling there's always some water 
that flows back.

Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit, MI

> On 01/25/2021 4:25 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
>  
> 
> I have a C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic 
> bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic 
> bilge pump this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the 
> hose should go into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering to 
> what people affixed the switch. 
> 
>  
> 
> As always, thanks in advance.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -
> 
> Glen Eddie
> 
> Tel:  416-777-5357
> 
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
> 
> ged...@torkinmanes.com mailto:ged...@torkinmanes.com
> 
> VCard http://www.torkinmanes.com/vcard.aspx?ID=glen-eddie
> 
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> 
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
> torkinmanes.com http://www.torkinmanes.com
> 
> Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
> Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer
> 
> An international member of Ally Law https://ally-law.com
> 
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer
> 
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
> confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others 
> authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby 
> notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in 
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> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Perusing some old data on my computer, I (Re) found this site: 
https://l-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php

Bob Mann
s/v Mystic
C 35 mk I
Great Lakes Yacht Club

> On 01/24/2021 9:03 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I have mast steps, makes going aloft very easy. I have someone tailing 
> the bosuns chair for when I get where I need to be. 
>  
>  
>  
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

The measurements I listed were provided by a sailmaker.  He's been in the 
business for decades.  I talked with him several years ago about using rings 
and athwartship tracks, which is why those measurements were included.  I never 
did include tracks, but now it has become more important.

Bob

> On 01/24/2021 11:46 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the 
> genoa (which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. 
> I am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of 
> the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
>     On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my 
> area we used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe 
> rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, 
> the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I 
> already severely bent the port lifeline last year.
> >  
> > Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so 
> > I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the 
> > deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:
> > Inline tracks
> > Front 20.0 aft of tack
> > Back 26.6 aft of tack
> > Front off center line 3.5
> > Back off center line  4.1
> > 
> > Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
> > 130 %  Transverse
> > 19.5 Aft of jib tack
> > 
> > 155% Transverse 
> > 23.1  aft of tack
> >  
> > I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to 
> > the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday 
> > it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).  
> >  
> > What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
> > straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
> > Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have 
> > two months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I purchased something similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124241193190
but for a LOT less money, about the cost of a bosun's chair.  Mine has the 
climbing harness, a sewn strap that connects hands to feet, a pair of petzel 
ascenders and possibly a carabiner or two.

The frog system is the method of ascending/descending.  Basically, stand on 
left foot, raise right hand & foot together (right foot strap comes up with 
hand). Stand on now raised right foot and repeat for left side.  To descend, 
you control the rate of descent.  To be fair, I've never used it to climb the 
mast, just a test climb at a barn with a rock climber to understand how it all 
works.  One fear is that you would twist around the line being climbed.  Wear a 
helmet!!

Bob

> On 01/24/2021 10:25 AM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi Marek - have found the hoisting of my not quite 100kg to be a lot as 
> well. I’m not at all happy that I have the ascent sorted as well as I 
> should - needs to be simple and safe.
> Could you share Some detail or reference material on the ascenders you 
> use and the technique?
> 
> Thanks, Dave 
> 33-2 windstar.
> April 28 launch!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Jan 24, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > I don’t believe in hoisting people up. You have to climb up, with 
> > the line used mainly as  safety.
> > 
> > When I go up, I use a pair of ascenders on one halyard and have 
> > someone at the winch using the second halyard for safety. If I have to do 
> > it alone (and I often do), I use a third ascender on the second halyard.
> > 
> > Cranking up 100 kg of dead weight up the mast is a very tough job 
> > that I don’t wish on anyone (so I don’t ask anyone to do it). Your legs are 
> > much stronger than arms (at least mine are).
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Marek
> > 
> > 1994 C270 Legato
> > 
> > Ottawa, ON
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> > Sent: January 24, 2021 8:32
> > To: Stus-List 
> > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden 
> > 
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Chuck
> > 
> > Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to 
> > hoist  a person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill 
> > alongside. 
> > 
> > Adam
> > 
> > Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > 
> > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 12:49:28 AM
> > To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  > mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net >
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Found "The Cranker" bit for $40. 
> > 
> > https://www.thecranker.com/#_What_is_%E2%80%A6? 
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thecranker.com%2F%23_What_is_%25E2%2580%25A6%3F=04%7C01%7C%7Ccd971060ac944df5a55a08d8c06c8235%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637470919559431177%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=NShBOrMVZV8atunGViroXV2%2FzT0zbncXedVXsiIP1IQ%3D=0
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Never tried one but it looks worth having the bit.
> > 
> > I'd rather do this at the dock and use a corded angle drill like 
> > 
> > this $150 one from Harbor Freight
> > 
> > 
> > https://www.harborfreight.com/13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html
> >  
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.harborfreight.com%2F13-amp-2-speed-12-in-heavy-duty-right-angle-drill-kit-64121.html=04%7C01%7C%7Ccd971060ac944df5a55a08d8c06c8235%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637470919559431177%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=h1xMsyGLRTkWajfsgnaz77C31od2BMJskzIS5D8fRKk%3D=0
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Or rig up an electric winch at the base of the mast with a remote 
> > control.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Or hoist a duffelbag full of anchor chain weighing the same weight 
> > of the climber to the mast head and then use that to neutralize the 
> > climber's weight so he can scamper on up at his leisure.  Never tried it 
> > but read it somewhere.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Chuck S 
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > On 01/23/2021 10:35 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > I used a friend's bit and 1/2" right angled drill to hoist me 
> > > up the mast. I 

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I'm also curious what cabin interiors look like where all the track bolts have 
come through.  If you have pictures, feel free to email me directly.

Bob

> On 01/23/2021 10:43 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Before I switched to a furling 135% genoa, which I use for racing and 
> cruising, I raced with a 105% genoa. My tracks are right up against the 
> cabin, and run from just aft of the shrouds to just forward of the 
> companionway. With the 105, I got a PHRF rating of nine seconds more than 
> with a 155, and I pointed five degrees higher than everyone else in the 
> fleet. The slight decrease in speed was more than made up with the better 
> pointing angle and better handicap. The smaller genoa allowed me to sheet in 
> a lot closer, as it doesn't get blocked by the shrouds.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my 
> area we used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe 
> rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, 
> the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I 
> already severely bent the port lifeline last year.
> >  
> > Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so 
> > I'll be using that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the 
> > deck.  I've been given these locations for adding track:
> > Inline tracks
> > Front 20.0 aft of tack
> > Back 26.6 aft of tack
> > Front off center line 3.5
> > Back off center line  4.1
> > 
> > Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
> > 130 %  Transverse
> > 19.5 Aft of jib tack
> > 
> > 155% Transverse 
> > 23.1  aft of tack
> >  
> > I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to 
> > the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday 
> > it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).  
> >  
> > What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be 
> > straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with 
> > Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have 
> > two months to plan and install as I won't launch until late April.
> >  
> > Bob Mann
> > Mystic
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7VWs6pv4pLsaUf7XvzeRZsiP_GyT5e6B1GBkxi-cn5kuufSf5Ua5mW1MVZIUigjBPpo$
> >Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks 
> > - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List adding tracks to deck

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks.  In my area we used to race 
with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the toe rail for.  When I went 
down to a 155%, I still used the toe rail.  However, the clew comes down just 
aft of a stantion and gets caught on the lifeline; I already severely bent the 
port lifeline last year.

Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so I'll be using 
that sail more often.  All-around, time to add tracks to the deck.  I've been 
given these locations for adding track:
Inline tracks
Front 20.0 aft of tack
Back 26.6 aft of tack
Front off center line 3.5
Back off center line  4.1

Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house
130 %  Transverse
19.5 Aft of jib tack

155% Transverse 
23.1  aft of tack

I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to the toe rail 
and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on Saturday it will be 155% 
and 130% (which I don't yet own).  

What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be straight, if 
possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be going with Garhauer 
adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or suggestions?  I have two months to 
plan and install as I won't launch until late April.

Bob Mann
MysticThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Hi Juliano,

that's not too bad.  Many boats get similar cracks. They occur where the keel 
is joined to the hull.  You definitely want to clean it up and fill in the 
divots.  You'll get many responses on this topic so I'll let others chime in.

Bob

> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list. 
>  
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka 
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and 
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This old 
> boat"  and some youtube channels.
>  
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to 
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a photo 
> of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a 
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their wisdom 
> with me on this idea?
>  
> Thanks all!
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu