Re: Stus-List Did C ever use deck-stepped mast?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening. The 27s including the mkv are deck stepped and I believe 
everything smaller is too. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2019, at 7:41 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I understand that most, if not all, C use a keel-stepped mast, with the 
> theory being that it provides for a stiffer boat and better performance (I 
> think). Did they ever use deck-stepped, perhaps on the Landfall series? Has 
> anyone tried converting one to deck-stepped?
> 
> For cruising, especially in cold, wet climates, having a source of constant 
> water intrusion and heat loss doesn't seem ideal. I've seen some boats with 
> an insulated sleeve, but there's still the water intrusion problem (and a big 
> hole in your deck if you're dismasted). 
> 
> I've also noticed that there isn't always a pattern in other brands as to 
> which models are keel-stepped or not - many boats that are not performance 
> oriented will have a keel-stepped mast (but most that aspire to racing do). 
> Some may say there is less to fail (beams, compression posts, etc.) but it 
> seems some keel-stepped designs also suffer from poor support designs below 
> the mast.
> 
> Some brands seem to have switched from deck to keel stepped at some point 
> (Ericson is one), but I don't know if this reflects a change in focus toward 
> performance, or if the designer just changed how he designed the boats.
> 
> Anyway, just curious. Hope this isn't one of those "can of worms" topics... :)
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Just for fun I got ahold of the survey. Yes I agree with what has been stated 
here the she’s not worth the effort. It’s just a shame that chances are this 
boat will end up going to scrap unless an energetic purchaser comes along to 
fix all of theses problems.  I was a teenager in 1990 and had a pinup of a 
37/40 on my wall and I guess young love never goes away. 

Brent D
s/v Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 27, 2019, at 4:14 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> There is a copy of a survey of Beau Geste outlining the damage available.  It 
> was posted on the list a while back.  I saved a copy I can send to anyone who 
> wants to read it.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 at 00:20, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> I called the broker out of curiosity.  As I recall there is substantial 
>> delamination of the hull both above and below the waterline in the aft 
>> starboard quarter.  He seemed to think it was a $50k minimum repair job on 
>> the hull alone.  If you’re ambitious you can probably get her for 
>> less...much less that the offer.  
>> 
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera 
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>> 
>>> 
>>> On Feb 26, 2019, at 8:01 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2019 19:52:35 -0600
>>> From: Brent Driedger 
>>> To: C List 
>>> Subject: Stus-List 37/40 for sale
>>> Message-ID: <46d9c557-c983-4cb9-a01f-0a810494a...@highspeedcrow.ca>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
>>> 
>>> Good evening. 
>>> While perusing Yacht World, I came across a 1990 37/40 for sale in Superior 
>>> for $34,500.  There?s a note indicating ?Dramatic Price Reduction due to 
>>> survey findings?. Does anyone know the history of this boat s/v Beau Geste?
>>> The photos show a beautiful boat but at 34.5k me thinks there is a severe 
>>> problem with the hull. 
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> s/v Wild Rover
>>> 27-5
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> Show Quoted Content
>> On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 at 00:20, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I called the broker out of curiosity.  As I recall there is substantial 
>> delamination of the hull both above and below the waterline in the aft 
>> starboard quarter.  He seemed to think it was a $50k minimum repair job on 
>> the hull alone.  If you’re ambitious you can probably get her for 
>> less...much less that the offer.  
>> 
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera 
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>> 
>>> 
>>> On Feb 26, 2019, at 8:01 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Message: 2
>>> Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2019 19:52:35 -0600
>>> From: Brent Driedger 
>>> To: C List 
>>> Subject: Stus-List 37/40 for sale
>>> Message-ID: <46d9c557-c983-4cb9-a01f-0a810494a...@highspeedcrow.ca>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
>>> 
>>> Good evening. 
>>> While perusing Yacht World, I came across a 1990 37/40 for sale in Superior 
>>> for $34,500.  There?s a note indicating ?Dramatic Price Reduction due to 
>>> survey findings?. Does anyone know the history of this boat s/v Beau Geste?
>>> The photos show a beautiful boat but at 34.5k me thinks there is a severe 
>>> problem with the hull. 
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> s/v Wild Rover
>>> 27-5
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Stus-List 37/40 for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening. 
While perusing Yacht World, I came across a 1990 37/40 for sale in Superior for 
$34,500.  There’s a note indicating “Dramatic Price Reduction due to survey 
findings”. Does anyone know the history of this boat s/v Beau Geste?
The photos show a beautiful boat but at 34.5k me thinks there is a severe 
problem with the hull. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Passing of Don Green

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thank you for the share. By coincidence I was just reading about Evergreen when 
this came in to me. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 25, 2019, at 9:33 PM, Headgorilla via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Passing of a very good man.
> 
> 
> https://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2019/02/21/eight-bells-donald-m-green/
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I’m a huge fan of the CS30 and have raced on them. I find the cockpit too 
constrictive to be raced efficiently compared to C in that size but they are 
perfect for cruising. The interiors are thoughtful and well put together and 
represent the best of design prior to the trend to move the head back to the 
companionway. But for that money a later version of a C 30 would be equally 
awesome. 

Brent D
27-5
Stiff Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 10, 2019, at 7:14 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Shawn, 
>  One of the boats you mention as possible candidates is a CS30. I 
> have considerable experience on a friend's CS30, and I can tell you that they 
> are great boats, well constructed, and eminently suitable both for PHRF 
> racing and couple-of-week cruises. They are very similar to a CS33 in 
> creature comfort but they will save you money in marina fees. The main 
> difference I have found between them and the C's in sailing characteristics 
> is a much greater tendency to round up in a puff, (say 30 knots), so you 
> learn to reef the main first and early. All mainsail control lines are 
> factory led to the cockpit which is a nice feature as well. You only need to 
> go forward to hook the tack reef points. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C


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Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Unfortunately I missed the call in. Although the recorded link is available, it 
would be great if it could be published for limited access on YouTube. 

Regards 
Brent D
27-5 s/v Wild Rover 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 31, 2018, at 4:42 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wish I could have joined in. Is the Access code the same to call in later and 
> What is  the reference # to access recording 
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon 
> 
> On Dec 31, 2018, at 4:48 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> David - 
>> I wasn’t able to dial-in; but am interested reading his diary if still 
>> avail. 
>> R
>> Tom
>> C 29MkII 
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Dec 31, 2018, at 1:52 PM, damian.greene--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> David - Thank you for arranging this call. That was fascinating to hear.
>>> 
>>> Damian
>>> 
>>> =
>>> 
>>> On Monday, December 31, 2018, 5:13:16 PM GMT, David via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard 
>>> his C & C 27 Mk 5.
>>> 
>>> Call details;
>>> 
>>> 12/31 at 1:00pm EST
>>> (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240
>>> 
>>> Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 
>>> 475-4957
>>> 
>>> Please mute your phones!!! 
>>> 
>>> I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the 
>>> server did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward 
>>> it to you. 
>>> 
>>> Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even 
>>> if you cannot make the call, do send along your questions. 
>>> 
>>> The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.
>>> 
>>> If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> David F. Risch, J. D.
>>> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
>>> (401) 419-4650 
>>> 
>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Sailing Club with racers

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie. Your club sounds similar to ours in size and operation.  
We charge typical club fees to cover operating expenses etc but have a separate 
fee for those who participate in the Wednesday night racing program. The charge 
covers equipment, committee boat costs and puts some aside for upgrades such a 
marks, training etc which has allowed us to host national events.  Some of that 
fee also goes to Sail Canada which may cover some of the insurance but I’m not 
entirely sure on how that works. 
For weekend regattas we charge for each race but it’s usually a very small fee. 
This keeps all the cruisers happy.
Our docks are federally owned and fees are separate from the club.  

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 18, 2018, at 9:03 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Charlie,
> At my club, we own buildings, and docks. Most members are powerboaters(170 
> boats). We have a committee (1 guy) that handles the racing. We set aside a 
> portion of the annual budget for the racing. Members get work party time for 
> helping out with the race committee boat. We also work closely with a paper 
> only club. 
> Hope this answers some of your questions
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> Date: 12/18/18 18:47 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List Sailing Club with racers
> 
> Hello all CnCers;
> 
> I have some questions for those of you who belong to Sailing or Yacht Clubs, 
> especially those with buildings and grounds, etc. Those whose clubs are 
> 'paper only' can also chime in.
> 
> Blackbeard Sailing Club (BSC) has ~ 200 members and is exclusively a sailing 
> club founded in ~ 1972. We own real estate, a clubhouse, and other buildings 
> located near New Bern, NC on a creek that joins the Neuse River. Dues are 
> modest (~$550/year) as are in-water slips (~$1000/year). We also have dry 
> storage, dinghy storage and dock boxes available for modest fees. 
> 
> Most of the upkeep is done by member labor with occasional professionals used 
> to replace entire dock sections, etc. which allows the above costs to be kept 
> reasonable.
> 
> Most members are cruisers with maybe 30 members who actively race either in a 
> OD San Juan 21 fleet, an Ensign fleet or in local PHRF races run by an active 
> club (Neuse River Yacht Association) without facilities (a paper club). Our 
> club (BSC) sponsors an OD regatta and a PHRF regatta or 2 annually and often 
> helps out with local OD fleets and PHRF races with RC personnel, equipment, 
> etc. All these fleets are relatively local and many club members are also 
> members of these fleets/clubs. 
> 
> I am a member of several paper clubs which are exclusively devoted to 
> racing--have even served as the Commodore of several of them. In these racing 
> clubs, all the revenue and expenses are devoted to racing only--this keeps 
> things simple and relatively low cost, especially without property concerns 
> (taxes, upkeep, etc.).
> 
> Recently, BSC has been approached by an OD club with a proposal for them to 
> associate with us (most of the OD are members of our club) to assist them 
> with personnel, equipment, insurance, etc. for their weekday races (~ 10 
> boats). This fleet has about 16 race days (Thursdays) per year with several 
> races per day. This is new 'ground' for our club and while we are keen to 
> support local sailboat racing in all its forms, we have to be mindful of the 
> majority of our members who do not race but certainly pay dues, slip fees, 
> etc. Hence our dilemma--how do we support our racing minority in a club whose 
> majority are cruisers or day sailors?
> 
> What I would like to know from those on the list (in broad terms) is how your 
> club handles racing in your club, especially if the racers represent a 
> relative minority of your otherwise cruising members:
> 
> Does the club supply RC and mark/safety boats and personnel for your racers?
> 
> Are the racers covered by the club's liability insurance while on the water 
> racing?
> 
> Does the club charge a fee or fees for the support it provides?
> 
> Does the club impose any fees on the racers for the use of the club 
> facilities such as the clubhouse for dinners, etc.?
> 
> Does your club charge additional fees to your racing members to cover racing 
> expenses?
> 
> This issue is new to our club and some other local OD fleets and paper clubs 
> may want a similar association. Thus we would like to get any agreement 
> between us and a smaller fleet/club mostly correct the first time. Further, I 
> am sure that this is not the first time this problem has come up in sailing 
> clubs with racers as members, albeit in a minority.
> 
> Any suggestions on how your club handles these issues or others similar to 
> these would be appreciated, including copies of by-laws, etc. that 

Re: Stus-List Speaker...

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The live stream would be best, just in case schedules clash. I’d love to hear 
his story. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 7, 2018, at 8:12 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> I was recently introduced to the gentlemen who sailed across the Atlantic on 
> his C 27 Mk 5 in 1992.
> 
> He has graciously accepted my offer to have him speak  of his experience to 
> our group via conference call.
> 
> Is there interest?
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
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Re: Stus-List 27 mk5 tuning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Mark. 
I sail with lots of rake, at least 12 inches. I really see the difference when 
returning to upwind and I’ve forgot to haul in the back stay tensioner.  I have 
found in addition to your comments, crew positions are extremely important in 
both heavy and light air but overall I sill have trouble pointing as well as 
the others. 
Mostly I sail a 155 3DL on a tuff luff and have a newish Dacron main.  I’ve 
never experimented with pre bend since it seems a little scary to me. The 
speedpac warns that the mast will go into compressive bend early so be careful! 
  Yikes.  
I’m not sailing the boat anywhere close to it’s rating but have seen the 
difference dumping about 1500 lbs of gear makes.  

Brent Driedger.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 7:42 PM, markbeggs17  wrote:
> 
> Hi Brent,
> I have looked at the speed pac before.   It's pretty good.
> 
> I'm set up with about 12" of take this year, and I'm pointing pretty good.
> 
> I have a roller furling headsail, but race with a 155% tacked on the deck and 
> run up the furler.   It's ok, I think a tuff luff would be better, but I'm 
> not giving up the furler.   It's not worth it to me.
> 
> I have found that a clean bottom is a big key.  Its suprising how much a bit 
> of sludge slows you down.
> 
> Have you ever tried really emptying everything off the boat to loose weight?  
>  It's such a PITA to store everything, but if it really helps it's one free 
> step you can take.
> 
> How much take do you sail with and are you able to get much prebend in the 
> mast.   I find it's tough to get it to start bending.maybe I'm not 
> putting on enough tension.
> My loose gauge is old and I'm not sure that it registers right..
> 
> Thanks
> Mark


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Re: Stus-List Winch sheeting angles

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I used my 100 in 7 knots of wind for the test.  My sheets on this sail are old 
7/16” yacht braid (I think) which are not as slippery as my newer softer lines 
on my racing 3DL.  
Since I’ve increased the sheeting angle on the higher drum I really didn’t 
expect what is happening.  But the suggestion that the higher friction is not 
allowing the line to walk up the winch seems to make sense. 
The entry angle on my B18’s was closer to 0 degrees and only presented an issue 
if I had more than 3 wraps pre loaded before tacking.   Our method was two 
wraps until the Genoa crossed the deck and slack was taken up, add the third 
wrap, grind in first gear then trim to final in second gear.  
Possibly this all may just be learning a new technique.  

Thanks. 
Brent Driedger. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 10:46 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> Don't know what sail you flew for the trial but maybe try a smaller sail with 
> the jib lead/car moved way forward.  That should decrease the angle of entry. 
>  If the problem persists, it may not be the angle of entry.
> 
> Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List 27 mk5 tuning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Mark.  
Did you see a copy of the Speed Pac issued in 1984 based on performance 
evaluation of Smoke, hull #1.  There’s great stuff in there.  The biggest item 
is the 27-5 likes lots of mast rake.   

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 16, 2018, at 6:08 PM, markbeggs17 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I've got the info from the c 27 association site for mk5 tuning, but was wo 
> during if there is anyone out there with more tuning info.   I'm always 
> looking to get the boat moving a bit faster
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> ___
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Stus-List Winch sheeting angles

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Happy Saturday folks.  
I recently got my hands on a pair of old Barient 23ST’s for my 27-5.  Yes they 
are a size or so larger than needed but so what, I’m getting tired of grinding 
till I hurt.  
I attached one to the deck and went for a sail to test it out.  The performance 
was stellar but it had a tendency to make a mess unless the sheet was very 
tight. 
I’m thinking there’s an issue with the angle the sheet enters the winch at.  
The 18s these replaced were over an inch closer to the deck and the sheet 
entered right where the drum started.  Now the line enters about 8 degrees 
below that so the first wrap at the bottom tends to double up on itself and 
only self corrects if there’s a lot of pressure.  
Twice I had some ugly over rides starting from the first wrap at the bottom.  
My thoughts are that I will need a beveled base plate to tilt the winch 
slightly towards the lead car to cancel out the angle.  Unfortunately I cannot 
find any suggested entry angle literature on the net.  
Any suggestions are appreciated. 

Cheers. 
Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5 Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I too peruse some of these, and during my hour long drive to the club I like to 
catch the 59 North Sailing Podcast. 
For those who haven’t tried this out, It’s hosted by a young guy who owns and 
charters a Swan 48 and along with great offshore ocean sailing dialogue, he 
also has fantastic interviews with famous sailors, designers and other people 
deep in the professional sailing community.  
Give it a go.  

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 25, 2018, at 3:05 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Im with you!
> 
> Janes Bibb 
> C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously 
>> through others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold 
>> ones)
>> 
>> My favorites are:
>> S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 
>> 2000 with 6 aboard
>> Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
>> Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's infancy
>> Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer 
>> catamaran donated by the manufacturer
>> Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
>> More daily...
>> 
>> Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so 
>> there's that. More cruising soon.
>> 
>> Anyone else?
>> 
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> C 36 KCB Chamamé
>> DIYC Tampa, FL
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Stus-List Structural glass work

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi folks.  
I’ve worked with fibreglass for years and have pretty much memorized the West 
epoxy how-to book. I want to learn more about engineering the reinforcements 
and repairs I’m doing.  Can anyone in the know recommend a good text book on 
the subject of marine composites which goes into more depth than your typical 
toilet tank page flipper.  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger 
s/v Wild Rover
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I’ve been using Costco deep cycle 12v batteries since 2002 and I’m really happy 
with them.  My oldest one still in rotation is a 2008 and it’s ready to go into 
season number 10!  

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2018, at 7:23 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just tuned in to this string. 
> Has anyone recommended the Costco batteries? I use 4 x 6-volt golf cart 
> batteries. They are under $140 Cdn and can be replaced at any Costco outlet 
> if you have issues.
> Another good policy someone told me about years ago is to buy all your 
> batteries from the same manufactured batch. Check the date stamp or sticker 
> on the battery to be sure.
> 
> Cheers, J-G 
> Callisto, C MkII, 
> Victoria, BC
> __
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Re: Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks. I was having email issues last night, inbox wasn’t populating and I 
couldn’t tell if my sent items were sent.

Cheers
Brent.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:53 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> Also, Alan Bergen replied to your email about 9 hours ago but you obviously 
> didn't receive his reply.


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Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day everyone.
Does anyone know when the annual West Marine buy one get one free winch sale 
usually is? 
I’m looking for 2 speed self tailing. 

Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Winch sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi everyone. Does anyone know when the West Marine annual buy one get one free 
winch sale is. I’m thinking it’s soon. 
Cheers. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

When you drill a hole, don't forget to chamfer it to prevent hairline cracks 
from appearing in the gel coat.  

Dremel tools with little grinding discs are great for small cuts in thin glass 
like interior liner etc. Also great for fixing those hairline cracks. 

When I rebuilt the front of my keel box I used a grinder with a flapper sander 
disc to remove the outer skin and all the damaged fill material inside.  This 
worked really well and provided a lot of control. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 9, 2017, at 6:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rick
> 
> I want one of those mini circular saws but have not found a project for one. 
> If  Cutting the skin for a recore it should work well because it will make a 
> thinner cut than the Fein. The mini circular, router or jigsaw should work 
> for enlarging the opening. 
> 
> Joel 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I like your suggestion. Now I recall last summer the exhaust was belching out a 
lot of carbon into the water when the throttle was goosed. You may be onto 
something. Ok. Exhaust elbow disassembly is moving closer to the top of the 
list. 
Thanks. 

Brent
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 9:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> If you or the previous owner ran the engine at low rpms frequently, then mix 
> elbow pluggage is more likely.  Diesels, and Yanmars in particular, like high 
> rpm and heavy loads.
> 
> First thing to try is to disconnect the water discharge hose that connects to 
> the mix elbow.  With the engine cold, crank the engine and observe the flow 
> for a short period.  Not long or the hot exhaust will damage the 
> muffler/exhaust hose system.  Reconnect it and observe the water being 
> ejected.  Is it noticeable less?  If so, the mix elbow is partially plugged 
> and should be cleaned.
> 
> If the water flow from the disconnected hose is very low, then start at the 
> discharge of the raw water pump, disconnecting each section and checking for 
> flow with engine running for short periods.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the 
>> list after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing 
>> elbow issues with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted 
>> stainless steel issues. 
>> I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
>> possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
>> impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small 
>> and hopefully went through. 
>> The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> s/v Wild Rover 
>> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the list 
after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing elbow issues 
with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted stainless steel 
issues. 
I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small and 
hopefully went through. 
The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
Cheers

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 7:51 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> We’ve already determined that Brent has a raw water cooled engine, so there 
> is not coolant to moniter.
>  
> Normally there is a bypass arrangement in the thermostat housing that allows 
> a small amount of water to circulate through the block to eliminate/minimize 
> the sort of uneven heating you mentioned until the engine comes up to 
> operating temperature and the thermostat opens. It could be as elaborate as a 
> spring loaded poppet or as basic as a small hole in the thermostat itself. I 
> don’t recall what Yanmar did on the 1/2/3GM. But if you shut off the raw 
> water feed in a raw water engine, you would get the sort of uneven heating 
> mentioned plus you’d probably ruin the water pump impeller.
>  
> Brent, have you cleaned out the mixing elbow where cooling water gets put 
> into the exhaust within the last 100 or so engine hours? Don’t know about the 
> white smoke/steam; but plugged mixing elbow is a notorious cause of hard 
> starting problems on Yanmars.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
> Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 1:18 PM
> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam
>  
> I would not recommend that, as the uneven heating of the head and block could 
> do a lot of damage before you could ascertain whether there was white smoke 
> or steam coming out.  Carefully watching the coolant level is the safest 
> thing to do.
>  
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
>  
> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 10:13 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out where 
> a cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of minutes.  
> If theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should disappear. Just 
> thinking outside the box. 
>  
> Brent
> 27-5
> s/v Wild Rover
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out where a 
cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of minutes.  If 
theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should disappear. Just thinking 
outside the box. 

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 7:22 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> In the general sense, probably not.  In this case, where the leak is 
> suspected to be between the cylinder and the coolant passages, it might show 
> the problem.  But a leak between a coolant passage and and an oil passage, 
> (for example)  would not show up on a compression test.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 11:14 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just a question but couldn't a compression test be done to rule out a head 
>> gasket issue?
>> Len
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks Jerry, 
An electric motor would be great for racing but a retrofit like that is far 
from within my budget these days. I'll get by with the existing setup as long 
as I can. 

Brent.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:01 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
> engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam 
> in exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick 
> as honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
>> a wee single cylinder unit. 
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a 
>>>> coolant passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the 
>>>> exhaust.  If the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil 
>>>> return, then you would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the 
>>>> coolant level carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you 
>>>> need to find where it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, 
>>>> then probably what you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>>>> 
>>>> Gary
>>>> 
>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>>>>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>>>>> gasket were blown?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Brent
>>>>> 27-5
>>>>> Wild Rover. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, 
>>>>>> such as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a 
>>>>>> sweet smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level 
>>>>>> going down, with no apparent leak?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Gary
>>>>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>>>>> '90 C 37+
>>>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>>>>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>>>>>>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should 
>>>>>>> be a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a 
>>>>>>> test you should do before you send it to a shop.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 
>>>>>>> halves of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all 
>>>>>>> the pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>>>>>>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>>>>>>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>>>>>>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came 
>>>>>>> apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> While you

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just a 
wee single cylinder unit. 

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what you 
>> are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>>> gasket were blown?
>>> 
>>> Brent
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
>>>> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
>>>> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
>>>> down, with no apparent leak?
>>>> 
>>>> Gary
>>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>>> '90 C 37+
>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>> 
>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>>>>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
>>>>> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
>>>>> you should do before you send it to a shop.
>>>>> 
>>>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
>>>>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
>>>>> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>>>>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>>>>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>>>>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  
>>>>> Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>>>> 
>>>>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>>>>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon 
>>>>> which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want 
>>>>> to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a 
>>>>> lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the 
>>>>> precombustion chamber.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>>> 1989 C 37+
>>>>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>>>>> Solomons, MD 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Greetings all.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>>>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>>>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>>>>> the tank.
>>>>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
>>>>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
>>>>>>

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Looking for used sailboat stuff

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I have some used Zebra Muscles but I don't think I'm allowed to ship them.  

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 12, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Owning a sailboat is getting more and more expensive.  I'm hoping the list's 
> holiday spirit will help me to cut costs with some used stuff.
> 
> Wanted:
> 
> Used wind.  Will consider most directions and speeds between 5 and 11 knots.
> Used DC amps.  12 volts.  Preferably the smokeless kind.
> Used AC amps.  120 volts 60hz will work fine.  
> Used diesel (post combustion is fine).
> Used routes (with way points).  I will return any unused way points.
> Lightly used lumens (preferably from LED lighting).
> Used sunshine, preferably without UVA
> Lightly used tacks and gybes.  Please consider offering equal numbers of port 
> and starboard items
> 
> Please don't offer any used prop walk.  I have just enough.
> 
> Happy Holidays
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Cold isn't my issue, this has been an ever increasing issue throughout the 
year.  I'm also suspecting fuel that's gone well past its shelf life.  
Replacing the fuel and cleaning the tank is next. It's been 8 years since I did 
it last and aside from topping up the tank in the fall with a gallon or two, I 
really haven't had a good clean fuel cycling.  I've probably only put 20 hours 
of run time on my engine since I got it!  

Brent
s/v Wild Rover
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 6, 2016, at 4:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How cold is it where you are at?  With no glow plugs it takes more cranking 
> as it gets colder. 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Wednesday, October 5, 2016, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello experts,
>> 
>> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C with a 
>> 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke. 
>> Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started. 
>> When it is turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but 
>> when it starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and 
>> spluttering).
>> 
>> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which is 
>> allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it seems 
>> to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the injector 
>> pump.
>> 
>> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm 
>> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might 
>> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce 
>> some method into my troubleshooting!
>> 
>> Thanks and regards
>> 
>> Mike Jones
>> c Seanachai
>> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding 
>>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to 
>>> post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'm experiencing the same issue with my 1GM10. I'm suspecting an air leak in 
the line. My trouble shooting thus far has only been replacing the fuel filter. 
I'm anxious to hear suggestions too. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 5, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello experts,
> 
> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C with a 3GM30 
> F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke. Recently it 
> has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started. When it is 
> turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but when it 
> starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and spluttering).
> 
> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which is 
> allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it seems 
> to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the injector 
> pump.
> 
> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm 
> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might 
> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce 
> some method into my troubleshooting!
> 
> Thanks and regards
> 
> Mike Jones
> c Seanachai
> Oak Bay, Victoria.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding 
>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to post 
>> some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>> 
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>> 
>> 
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List now cored hulls

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Not directly C but prior to my 27-5 I owned a Kirby designed DS-22. The 
transom was cored, rotted and during the replacement process I determined the 
reason to be from stainless screws which had gone through the aluminum cap rail 
down through the core. After 25 or so years the seal had failed on the screws 
and allowed water to run down and get trapped in the core. Next came carpenter 
ants!  I replaced the core from the inside with marine plywood and learned a 
lot about boat construction and fibreglass repair. 
This same boat had some vertical gelcoat cracks at the stress points of the 
hull near the bulkhead. If this had been a cored hull I wonder if those cracks 
would have gone deep enough to cause wet core. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 25, 2016, at 8:53 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know someone that had to do some core repairs on a C 40. The boat had sat 
> on the hard for years with water in the bilge and the freeze-thaw cycles had 
> cracked the hull from the inside.
> 
> He said it wasn’t a lot of money, just a lot of PITA work under the boat 
> grinding and laminating. Now if you had to pay someone by the hour……OUCH!
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Stus-List Lightning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening.  Last summer my neighbour's Aloha 27 took a lightning strike to 
the masthead which fried the VHF antenna (and VHF), cooked the antenna wire 
quick connect but caused no other visible damage.   Small strike perhaps. 
Luckily I suffered no damage from the strike 8 feet away. 
Has any of you been struck before? What was the damage and what if any 
protection was in place.  Typical  of C Wild Rover has a couple of fat 
welding cables running from chainplate to keel bolt but as I understand it, all 
lightning protection is theoretical at best.  

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I showed the Niagara picture to my boat and it cried. 

Brent D
27-5
Built in Niagara on the lake. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2016, at 8:23 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Or open a ski area!
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎01 7:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View
> 
> The saying goes,
>  
> “ If you want to make a small fortune, take a large fortune and start a boat 
> Shop.”
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 7:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View
>  
> Chuck,
>  
> I certainly wasn't implying a relationship between the condition of a 
> shuttered factory and our boats.  Hope it didn't come across that way.  
>  
> Just interesting to see the place where they came from.  And you're certainly 
> right - the boat building business seems a tough business indeed..
> 
> On Feb 1, 2016, at 18:51, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> The exterior of a boat building facility is rarely indicative of the quality 
> of the work that goes on inside.  Many Florida boat building facilities don’t 
> even have walls on the exteriors of the buildings (partially due to the heat, 
> but I think they feel that every time a hurricane comes through, they’re 
> going to lose the building so why bother with walls…).  It is also hard to 
> keep a facility looking “pretty” if you have to store hull and deck molds 
> outside and do wet layup of fiberglass indoors…
>  
> The boat building industry has suffered greatly during the upswings and 
> downturns of our economic climate over the past 50 years, from the booms of 
> the dawning of the fiberglass era, to the luxury tax disaster of the 1980’s 
> and the Great Recession of the last decade.  The number of domestic North 
> American boat manufacturers has been cut by 75% since 1980, both in the US 
> and Canada.  If you want a good insight on the industry as a whole, not just 
> sailboat OEMs but boat builders successful and not so successful, read Heart 
> of Glass by Daniel Spurr.   Dan has done quite a bit of research, especially 
> on C Yachts rise and fall, and he presents a good bit of information on how 
> boatbuilding in North America developed into the iconic industry of today. 
>  
> It is very rough to get the right mix of design innovation, management and 
> financial skills, brand and customer loyalty, and a well-trained skilled 
> workforce all at the same time and keep the team together long enough to 
> withstand the ups and downs of the world economic issues.  I’m always amused 
> when a person tells me that sailboat builders will have a good year when oil 
> and gas prices go up.  Little do they know that the same oil is  used to make 
>  the resins holding the boats together and the Dacron that goes into building 
> the sails and ropes.  When the price of oil goes up, EVERYTHING costs more 
> and only the very wealthy can afford luxury goods such as new sailing and 
> motor yachts. 
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk1
>  
> S/V Orion (for now)
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 1, 2016 2:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle 
> Subject: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View
>  
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just figured I'd share these.  I was doing a bit of research into my boat's 
> history and did a Google Street view search for the site of the old 
> Niagara-On-The-Lake C factory where many of our boats were built.  This 
> appears to be it.  A little sad looking these days.  The official address was 
> 526 Regent Street, Niagara-On-The-Lake, ON. 
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@43.2477103,-79.0798583,3a,75y,46.89h,80.32t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DWXyUsyI08paWB6abrM7vTQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D69.186577%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
>  
> 
> And this appears to be the Rhode Island plant where some of the later C's 
> were built.
> 
> https://www.google.com/maps/@41.5370326,-71.2796595,3a,37.5y,238.05h,82.17t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sQtO33RcgRe2XAgGkFTZWzA!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
> 
>  
>  
> Ryan
> S/V Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30 MK I
> Hull #377
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
> ___
> 
> Email 

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That's a bummer.  
Have you inspected the hull in front of the keel and in back? Tremendous forces 
during a grounding can fracture the hull in ways which may barely be visible 
but can cause delimitation etc. If the impact was enough to distort the lead it 
may be well within your interests to have hull inspected carefully.  There are 
people that can do scans of the laminate.  In my opinion this is more important 
than the distorted lead which superficial and not structural.  

Best of luck, the 34+ is my favourite. 

Cheers

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 19, 2015, at 9:12 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the damage 
> to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I actually 
> received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on the ledge 
> during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the marker buoy 
> was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
> repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still 
have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf 
life. 
Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't stay 
put!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my 
> Interprotect.   I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on 
> the instructions.  No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to 
> stick to later interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor 
> thruhulls and Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did 
> wipe the Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they 
> recommended 216.  
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the 
> first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it 
> bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially 
> cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a 
> knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first 
> coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.
>  
> Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect.
>  
> Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad 
> Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No 
> problems in the last 6 or 7 years.
>  
> I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that 
> is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told 
> is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also 
> been told that the UV is a contributing factor.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
> Collins via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
>  
> First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
> interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated 
> Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca>
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
>  
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface.
>  
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>  
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To chang

Re: Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Yeah it is weird. The paint under the hull sticks fine. It resists 4000 psi 
from the pressure washer. I thought dust might be the problem too but I fooled 
that guess by spraying the hull with fresh water a day before I painted it. Air 
temperature was good, humidity was fine. It's a mystery. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca>
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> 
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> 
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> of page at:
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Stus-List VC17

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C trademark stripe.

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, is that the ex Gimli Harbour Mistress?

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 22, 2015, at 10:23 AM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not sure how many Good Old Boat subcribers are on the list but in the last 
> issue someone had redone the C cove strip with a reflective tape. Probably 
> not for every color scheme but I thought it would be very good at night if 
> someone was to shine a light towards the boat. I am considering it since I am 
> in a mooring field and the power boaters on the lake seem to come too close 
> most of the time.
> 
> David Donnelly
> C 26 Mistress 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung device
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List  
> Date: 09-22-2015 9:11 AM (GMT-07:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C trademark stripe. 
> 
> I would highly recommend removing the old tape. Just make sure to measure and 
> mark when it goes with a grease pencil before removing the original. I 
> measured the distance to the underside of the hull/deck joint every couple of 
> feet.  3M has a special stripe removal wheel for about $40 that you spin with 
> a drill and it removes the tape and residue without harming the underlying 
> gelcoat or paint. Ask at a body shop supply and they will fix you right up.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 9/22/2015 11:02 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:
>> We are re-doing ours as well.  Can you apply tape over old tape after 
>> cleaning thoroughly?
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2015 10:59:05 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C trademark stripe.
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: billbinal...@gmail.com
>> 
>> Any place that sells autobody supplies can get you scotchlite tape in any 
>> color and width you like. It lasts about 20-30 years.
>> 
>> http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ScotchliteNA/Scotchlite/
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> On 9/22/2015 10:21 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List wrote:
>> The paint in my recessed stripes and stars is fading and peeling. Anyone 
>> have success with tape? How long tape will it last in the sun? Where did you 
>> get the tape? 
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> ___
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>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

There is also the possibility he did a good repair job that can be backed up 
with a survey. And kudos to that. Saving another vintage CC from the chainsaw 
and scrap yard.  
I'll go with that for the benefit of the dreamers out there. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
2015 GYC division winner. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 21, 2015, at 4:45 PM, Steve Sharkey via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Could be the next reality show – Flip that boat
  
 Steve Sharkey
 CC 37

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Re: Stus-List Damage to fibreglas

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I would seal it with West Epoxy and if it's in a structurally important area 
I'd sand out a bevel and add a few layers of glass. It didn't need to be 
pretty.  
Cheers.  

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

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 On Jul 5, 2015, at 12:57 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I put a hole in several layers of fibreglas about a foot above the waterline 
 in the side of my boat.  As it may take some time before repairs are made,  
 should I seal the glass to prevent water from getting in the layup?  If so 
 what should I use?
 
 Fred Hazzard
 S/V Fury
 Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List CC 35 Mk II for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Well if I lived even one state over I'd drive to your house with a suitcase 
full of cash and it would be done! Alas even at that price hauling a 35 foot 
boat to mid canada would be outrageously expensive. Beautiful boat sir. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:23 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Well, my CC 35 k II is for sale.  Expresso is on Yachtworld.  She is one of 
 the best around.  She has modern electronics (Comnav / Nexus), radar, below 
 deck autopilot, new Ultraleather interior with memory foam, new paint job 
 2010, carbon fiber main and 142% genoa, etc.  She is priced to sell.  The add 
 on Yachtworld is still being completed but can be seen at

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Re: Stus-List A good day

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I have heard that although 5200 is amazingly strong, the chemicals in it attack 
the plexiglass and will eventually cause premature crazing. 
I hope yours buck the trend. Keep us posted. 

Cheers
Brent
CC 27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 21, 2015, at 9:25 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I used 4000UV to caulk along the top of my 
 glued-and-screwed-on-to-the-outside-of-the-boat windows without frames, and 
 after a couple of years it pulled away from the Plexiglas. Not a lot, but 
 enough to form a small gap that water can flow through. Stayed stuck real 
 good to the gelcoat though, so I am trying to seal the small gap with 
 creeping crack cure.
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 - Original Message -
 From: PME via CnC-List
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: PME
 Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 21:11
 Subject: Re: Stus-List A good day
 
 
 May your port never leak again, but if a different ports leaks consider not 
 using 5200.  I like 4000UV.
 
 
 -
 Paul E.
 1981 CC 38 Landfall 
 S/V Johanna Rose
 Carrabelle, FL
 
 On Jun 21, 2015, at 7:48 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 the 5200 that I used to rebed the
 fixed portlights in my Beckson windows is sound with no leaks after 2
 weeks, only time with more will tell how this repair holds up over the long
 run but right now I am happy:
 
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Re: Stus-List CC30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'm in the loving the mountain gear approach so I don't have to rely on help. A 
quality ascender, a Grigri, a sits harness, a new line to hoist up the mast on 
two halyards and its upsy-daisy. There's great technique on YouTube to learn. 

Cheers
Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Any kind of ladder does not solve the safety issue. You need a halyard (and a 
 person to man it) to keep you from falling. However, any kind of ladder would 
 help the winchperson (there is hardly any load on the halyard). I use a 
 string of climbing aiders (e.g. 
 http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html).
  With that, even my wife can help me with getting to the top. Just to be safe 
 I use an ascender on a second halyard (always two points protection, when 
 working aloft).
 
  
 
 Marek
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. 
It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 
3/8 from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is 
wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just 
on my mind as one of those  not quite right things

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
 and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
 little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, 
 like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, 
 which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is 
 movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have the 
 boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided the 
 shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then 
 reinstalled for a final alignment. 
  
 My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose 
 coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?
  
 Thanks,
  
 Brad Crawford
 CnC 36
 Seattle
  
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Chuck, I think you're onto something here!  Good find. Thanks. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 1, 2015, at 10:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Rig Rite does have a large selection of gudgeons and pintles.  I like the 
 heavy duty model gudgeon that uses 1/4 stainless plate and a replaceable 
 1/2 SS clevis pin.  These parts may seem expensive, but nothing close to 
 what I spent on steering cable/chain and an idler plate this year.  Don't 
 skimp on steering.
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Going to a machine shop is my alternative. I'll check out SSY. Thanks for the 
tip. I'm guessing these were custom made at the time. 

Cheers
Brent

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 31, 2015, at 9:29 PM, Mark G via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5.  The upper 
 gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double.  On 
 the 25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through 
 both gudgeons.  I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the 
 mooring.  I was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons 
 which were anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat.
 I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder 
 to a machine shop so they understood the issue.  They opened up the already 
 enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again.  
 Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the 
 desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon.  The ID of the bushings was 
 then bored to match the rod size.  I don't have any concerns with the 
 strength of it.  These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance 
 between the pin and the journal is minimized.
 I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 
 each.  They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons / TuffLuff

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

There's no rush. It's an annoyance only. I have a tiller tamer that takes care 
of the nighttime noise. It's those windless Wednesday nights following a gusty 
day where the lake takes a while to settle down. With no pressure against the 
rudder it flops around and bugs me. I've got larger issues that need attention 
before I commit to the Gudgeon project. If I can arrange the parts I'll do it 
next season. I just dropped a boat unit replacing my TuffLuff. 
Now there's a sore spot. Some guy at the Schaffer factory throws my empty Coke 
bottles into a machine, pulls a leaver, squirts out 46 feet of extrusion and 
charges me $400 for the effort. Wow. Now that's a racket!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 31, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
 bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
 around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
 problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Boatless!

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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space if any 
to squeeze a bushing in there. 

Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent 
 machinist should be able to make them.
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my Rhodes 19.  
 Jerry. 27mkv.   JJ
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
  On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Good day.
  I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom 
  hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I 
  believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them.  My web search 
  is leading me nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you 
  use.
  Cheers
 
  Brent Driedger
  27 MkV
  Lake Winnipeg.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day. 
I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my transom hung 
rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty hardware which I believe we're 
made by Schaefer. I'd like to replace them.  My web search is leading me 
nowhere useful. Has anyone replaced theirs and what did you use. 
Cheers

Brent Driedger
27 MkV
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Interesting problem. 
I have a small John Deere tractor with a 23 hp Yanmar engine. When the 
temperature is hovering lower than minus 15c a small amount of antifreeze leeks 
out onto the garage floor.  I've always wondered why. 
There's little change in the overall volume of the cooling system and all 
summer long there's no issue. Maybe a Yanmar thing. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 24, 2015, at 8:24 PM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 John:
 
 Thank you both good tips...your first one could be the culprit but your 
 second one could also be the  culprit.the antifreeze (Preston) is approx. 
 8 years oldI will flush and replace it before Fall layup and see what 
 happens.  As I said earlier, it does not happen after launch and before 
 hauljust during the cold of winter.
 
 A few years back, one of the engine block antifreeze drain valves came loose 
 during the sailing  motoring season which was noticed when antifreeze 
 entered the bilgea little stress until the loose valve was detected.  
 Some times we get lucky!
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 On 2015-05-24 3:33 PM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:
 Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
 storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
 Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
 freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
 was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
 pretty sharp and seen most things.
 
 John
 CC 32
 Arpeggio
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
 via CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: robert
 Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery
 
 After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
 it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
 cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
 
 I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
 out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
 has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
 there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
 sailing season.
 
 I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
 container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
 is not leaking.  It's a mystery!
 
 Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
 originating from?
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
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Re: Stus-List CC 29 - $2500

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

It's not a total disaster. The interiors had water sitting in it for a long 
time. There's no mention of a mast. Might as well be free then. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 19, 2015, at 8:09 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 If someone is looking for a project: 1978 CC 29 - $2500 (CAD)
 
 I wonder if that light blue is the original gelcoat. Could be a pretty boat 
 again.
 
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Too bad it would cost me $6000 to get it home. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 12, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I was all set until I read that there is no trailer.
 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 On May 12, 2015, at 20:43, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Yeah, my wife said, buy it for parts?  I wasn't expecting that from her...
 
 The engine looked to be in pretty good shape from the photos.
 
 Frederick G Street
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38)
 Bayfield, WI
 
 
 
 On May 12, 2015, at 9:22 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Yeah, for $63 I think I will pass. Although there might be some good 
 parts..
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 svPegasus
 LF38
 just west of Ballard, WA.
 -- Original message--
 From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List
 Date: Tue, May 12, 2015 17:48
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 Cc: Nate Flesness;
 Subject:Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?_trksid=p2056016.l4276
 
 Last bid I saw was $61. Might be worth it then again
 
 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 CC 30-1
 headed for the St. Croix River
 
 and
 Adagio
 1994 Tartan 31
 Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Did you see the Dauphin island race disaster?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The storms never look as bad on video they do in reality. Unless one has been 
in a 60 knot storm seeing the spume on the horizon coming,  it will not garnish 
the respect that storm deserves. 
I've been in such a prairie thunderstorm on Lake Winnipeg but the sustained 
winds were only 10 minutes. It was during a race and fortunately nobody 
suffered any real damage. We drifted one mile under bare poles. It changed the 
way I sail when heavy weather is approaching. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (one week till splash)

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 11, 2015, at 3:56 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 The coated (rust showing in numerous places) lifelines on the boat in this 
 video are unsafe to say the least.
 
 Jack Fitzgerald
 CC 39TM
 HONEY
 Savannah
 
 
 On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 4:36 PM, Charlie Normand via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 PFDs ? 
 
 Horrible tragedy
 
 On Monday, May 11, 2015, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 We had our CC out on the bay for DI Race. We had already finished the race 
 and were headed back to Fairhope, just south of Middle Bay Light, when the 
 storm hit. It was a tremendous. It struck quickly and winds were sustained 
 36-58+ knots for about 30 minutes. Naturally we had all our sails up and 
 getting them down was a challenge but we did with minimal damage. I felt 
 very confident that the boat would hold up just fine to the conditions, it 
 was my crew I was most worried about! All came through just fine. 
 
 Here is a video that one of the participants put together if anyone is 
 interested.
 
 57th Annual Dauphin Island Race
 
 Tracy Hirsh
 Ogopogo
 1989 CC 37+
 Fairhope AL
 
 
 On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 9:42 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I hope none of our CC buddies got caught in the mess. 2 confirmed 
 fatalities. It's a long running race across Mobile bay to Dauphin Island.  
 An afternoon thunderstorm freakishly turned into a full-on tropical 
 depression with reported gusts up to 70 mph.  
 
 Our thoughts are with the families.
 
 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Cat has trouble opening the bottle for post race dark and stormys 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 22, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up securely. She might have been 
 just playing with you. :)
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 
 At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:
 Cats also tie terrible knots. Never trust a cat to tie you up securely. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 22 April 2015 at 19:10, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Being a live aboard, my crew (aka cat Dinghy) gets locked in the brig 
 (v-berth), he can tell when I am thinking of leaving the dock. It's terrible 
 being out smarted by a cat.  Once under way, he likes to sit on cushion 
 layed over clutches, makes it tough to adjust the main, all the while giving 
 me the finger, (mentally), for making him go sailing. When arriving back at 
 slip first one off is supposed to take a line. Yeah he doesn't do that 
 either. 
 
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 
 svPegasus
 
 LF38 
 
 just west of Ballard, WA.
 
 -- Original message--
 
 From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 
 Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 17:57
 
 To: Martin DeYoung;cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
 
 Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
 Before the Great Refit, often when my wife and I went out for an afternoon 
 sail it went like this:
 
 Me: “Honey, could you just take in on the mainsheet a bit?”
 
 Wife, putting down her knitting and cranking: “Is that enough?”
 
 “Yes. Thanks”
 
 Wife goes back to knitting.
 
 “Honey, could ease the traveler down a bit?”
 
 Wife: “Okay… Is that enough?”
 
 
 Me: “Yes. Thanks.”
 
 Me in a few seconds: “Could you bring the traveler up a bit?” (after 
 cranking in on the jib”
 
 Wife: “Your racing again, aren’t you?”
 
 Me: “Well, there’s a boat on the horizon and I think he’s pointing 
 higher than us.”
 
 Wife: “Really…?”
 
 Me: “Just pull it up a little bit, okay?”
 
 Wife goes back to knitting…
 
 AKA: Competition Cruisinng.
 
 Cheers,
 Dave Godwin
 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
 Ronin’s Overdue Refit
 
 On Apr 22, 2015, at 8:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.
 
 This is why I often sail singlehanded.  Wife, son, and dog got tired of my 
 general yahoo approach to sailing even on a cruise.
 
 Martin DeYoung
 Calypso
 1971 CC 43
 Seattle
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
 Frame via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
 
 
 My crew:
 
 Spouse: Hanging on tightly convinced we're going to capsize when we heel.
 
 Daughter: Total lack of situational awareness, particularly noticeable when 
 on the foredeck, we're coming about and the jib and lines proceed to 
 mummify her.
 
 Son: Panic-frozen in place, terrified of the body-hugging apparatus called 
 a PFD.
 
 Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.
 
 
 Andrew
 CC 24
 
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Re: Stus-List 34+ in Ohio

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That seems like a pretty good price for a fresh water boat. Is she hiding some 
dirty secrets?  The 34+ is among my very favourite models. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 5, 2015, at 7:05 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I ran into this and thought is np might be of interest to the list.  Seems 
 like an attractive price.
 
 http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_adsmanagerItemid=283page=showadadid=16526
 
 Tom Buscaglia
 S/V Alera 
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon WA
 P 206.463.9200
 
 
 On Apr 5, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
  1. Re:  Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story (Don Newman)
  2. Re:  Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story (Robert Boyer)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2015 09:19:42 -0400
 From: Don Newman donrnew...@gmail.com
 To: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Any hope for this battery?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Those new Motomaster commercials showing AGM batteries surviving cold, 
splitting, etc are missing one thing, the ever present flat frozen. 
By the way Edd, that was awesome!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (still frozen) 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 1, 2015, at 9:24 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Steve,
 
 IMHO — http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/list/000/715/142/f6c.jpg 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 PastedGraphic-1.tiff
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 On Apr 1, 2015, at 10:19 AM, OldSteveH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 In October when DG came out of the water, after winterizing I carelessly
 left the 12v power on - my cranking battery - a 1 year old Motomaster Marine
 AGM, group 24, 75 ah.
 When I came back a few weeks later it was flat. I took it out of the boat
 and brought it home. It would not take a charge.
 Over the winter I tried now and again with no luck but as of a few days ago
 it is now charging on both the charger auto positon and at 10 amps (this
 portable charger is for deep cycle batteries)
 Previously the charger would show error.  However the battery gets hot. Not
 being versed in batteries can anyone advise if it can be resuscitated? 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Steve Hood
 S/V Diamond Girl
 CC 34
 Lions Head ON
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List halyard stoppers

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I believe most of the stoppers installed in that vintage were Easy Locks. They 
are OK. Years of sunshine have likely weakened the levers. That mixed with the 
irritating operational requirement of never stopping a static line (I has to be 
moving through the stopper as its closing or it jams so hard you sometimes 
break the aging levers while trying to open it) I would seriously recommend 
changing out to newer technology. 
It's been on my to do list for 5 years. 3 broken levers later i'm running out 
of spares so I better do this soon. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 21, 2015, at 8:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Replacing the original 7/16 halyards on our 1985 CC 33 MKII. Got a GOOD 
 price on some 3/8 Warpspeed from W.M. Does anyone know what brand/size of 
 halyard clutches  CC used in '85? There is a set of double Schaefer clutches 
 mounted outboard of the original triples, either side of the companionway, 
 pictures I have aren't good enough to identify them and the boat is 3 hrs 
 from here.
 Thanks
 Brad
 Sarnia ON
 1985 CC 33 Pulse
 
 Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
 from my iPad!
 
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Re: Stus-List antifouling

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

May have to investigate home brew additives.  (Or not wink wink)

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 20, 2015, at 3:38 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Brent,
 
 Had similar experience w VC-Offshore in salt water.  Used it for 4 years.  
 Very slippery and required if you want to sail to PHRF rating.  Miss one tack 
 and throw that away.  I think a grey auto primer would work as well.  Had to 
 scrub the bottom before each race (mfr design criteria) and minimum every two 
 weeks or the buildup would require major efforts to remove. Micron 66 worked 
 so much better, I tell everyone about it.   Almost zero buildup without 
 diving/scrubbing.  
 
 But of course Interlux does not recommend Micron 66 for brackish water, where 
 I keep the boat now?   Gotta find a new paint for racing Chesapeake Bay, so 
 I'm watching the list comments.
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 12:59:41 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Discontinuation of significant antifouling chemical
 
 I thought so. That explains why VC17 is like plant food in Lake Winnipeg. I 
 have to de-slime the bottom 3 times per season. At least the boat looks 
 really pretty going in each spring!
 
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: Stus-List Awl grip deck and re-bed toe rail of 35MkI

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I redid my toerails on my MK-5 when I bought her. Yes the rail darn near 
knocked me off my ladder when the last bolt came out. It's easy to push 
straight, I just was not expecting it. 1/8 butyl and a helper but it's an easy 
job on the MK-5 with the outward facing flange. Yours will require a tunnel rat 
to hold back the nuts. 
when you bolt back up, only turn the nuts, not the bolts. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 17, 2015, at 3:41 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hello everyone,
 
  
 
 I am planning to keep Freya IV out of the water this summer to redo the toe 
 rail and get rid of the wet core on the deck.   I understand this is a big 
 project and I have professional help on core repair and the awl grip job to 
 get it done.  That said, I would greatly appreciate assistance on re-bedding 
 the toe rail and any issues that anyone has come across in prepping the deck 
 for priming/painting.  I have given myself until next May to get everything 
 done, although I want the toe rail re-bedded and the deck painted by this 
 fall at the latest.  I have other projects to complete over the 
 winter-and no I will not be replacing the Atomic 4.
 
  
 
 I love my 35 mk I. Hopefully this will bring her to showroom condition.   
 Thanks in advance.
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Re: Stus-List firends from list

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Comments like that make me appreciate the list. You cannot get that on a forum. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 18, 2015, at 8:05 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 
 +1 on Dennis being one cool dude :-)
 
 
 On Mar 16, 2015, at 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Good point, Mike
 
 For instance, I found a pair of winches on Craigslist on the other end of 
 the country.  The seller was reluctant to ship them to me.  A very kind 
 lister was instrumental in obtaining them and shipping them to me.  I think 
 the more personal nature of the email format helps that process.
 
 I also have met listers in my travels and asked listers for local 
 information.  I'm not sure I'd be as comfortable on a personal basis with 
 members of a forum.
 
 As always, listers are welcome to contact me when they are in the south 
 Louisiana area.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

CC must have bought miles of that stuff. Every line in my boat was done that 
way. Sanitary, drains, vents exhaust pipe. And it all cracked. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 15, 2015, at 9:25 AM, John McKay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I experience the same thing, the cockpit had about 5 inches of water in it 
 during a thaw earlier this winter.
 
 Another project to put on the list for the new Mark II.
 
 john from Enterprise.
 
 
 
 On Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:19 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 A couple of weeks ago I posted that the cockpit drains on my 33 mkii were 
 frozen and the hoses had popped off. Upon investigation, I found that there 
 was a low spot in the criss-crossed drains. I am not sure whether they were 
 originally installed with a low spot or they just sagged over the years. In 
 any event, I removed the old hoses which were type B fuel lines reinforced 
 with steel wire. (had to cut them off with recip saw) and installed 
 sanitation type hoses double clamped with no low spots. So far, so good, they 
 always allow the water to drain off, no ice.
  
 Mike Amirault
 CC33 mkii lovely Cruise
 St Margarets Bay, N.S.
 
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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Dang, act of God clause...

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 14, 2015, at 5:08 PM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 And remember, no matter where our boats are in a hurricane, they are always 
 in God's handsthat's why we have insurance.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 -84
 Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks. If I don't have any info on it by May Id be very happy to get it from 
you then. I was considering plywood too. My old Bonito daggerboard is ply and 
it works well. I was thinking the invitation might have a more built up foil 
shape like a Laser which may be a little harder to make from plywood. 

Brent

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 11, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Bent,
 
 I have a boat like this, as well. I have it at the cottage, so I cannot take 
 any measurements at this time. It won't happen until some time in May (if you 
 are still interested).
 
 I found a manual here: http://www.iei.liu.se/flumes/bjorn/triss_racer?l=en 
 (it is big and the connection is not the fastest, but you can get it form 
 there).
 
 The daggerboard that I have is a reasonably simple thing. the top is shaped 
 to fit into the opening; the bottom is wing shaped (tapered at the leading 
 and the trailing edge) and the front and the back are parallel. Personally, I 
 would make it of wood (and use good varnish on top). That thing has to be 
 reasonably strong, as you will want to step on it, when righting the boat.
 
 If you are willing to wait for the measurements, let me know; I will take 
 some pictures and dimensions, when I get there.
 
 Marek
 
 -Original Message- From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:02 PM
 To: CC List Canada
 Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)
 
 Good day folks.
 Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
 I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm 
 going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a 
 design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have 
 any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for 
 the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this 
 project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
 Thanks.
 
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC 
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm going 
to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for a design 
detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have any links 
they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for the composite 
masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this project? Will 
fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the mighty suggestions. I think I'll take the simple route and use 
plywood but I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the 
cockpit needs to be rebuilt. 
The weather is warming up here almost to the point fast epoxy will setup!  I'm 
looking forward to sailing this little boat on the Red River near my house to 
get my after work sailing fix

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg (5 feet of ice)

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 11, 2015, at 7:11 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Brent:
 
 Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
 is a composite master and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
 a pert that might work.
 
 http://csi-composites.com  
 
 Tell him I sent you.
 
 Ron Casciato
 Impromptu
 CC 38MKIIC'77
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
 Driedger via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
 To: CC List Canada
 Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)
 
 Good day folks. 
 Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
 I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
 going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
 a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
 any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
 the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
 project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
 Thanks. 
 
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg.  
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape Dow 795

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you 
painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now adhering 
to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see the window 
separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the tape as the paint 
is not necessarily a structural bond.  Hopefully the paint is more firmly 
adhered to the glass than the tape will be.  
Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over time 
and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm overthinking 
this and wrong. 
Good luck with the project, keep us posted. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
 might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
 yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 
 
 In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
 ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and 
 a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
 made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
 portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They 
 turned out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 
 
 To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 
 Tape 1/2 x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white 
 over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating 
 exhaust paint. 
 
 Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
 starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could 
 chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate 
 adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel 
 Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible 
 scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. 
 In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the 
 portlight. 
 
 What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
 adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
 ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
 Premium Marine Filler. 
 
 After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while 
 my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective 
 paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing 
 and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted 
 the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 
 795 will not be visible against the cabin top. 
 
 I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
 it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
 carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
 left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since 
 read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
 adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun 
 today to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 
 
 Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the 
 inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will 
 affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin 
 top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can 
 then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then 
 fit the portlight into place like a key into a keyhole. After the tape is 
 set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 
 
 That's the plan, anyway. 
 
 Robert H. 
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Try this link to 3M VHB tapes. 

http://m.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/mAdhesives/Tapes/Products/?rt=msresultsPerPage=10Ntt=VHBx=0y=0

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 15, 2015, at 3:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Edd,
 
 I googled 3m fuselage tape and couldn't cleary identify what product you 
 used.  Could you please enlighten me.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 On Feb 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 
 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very 
 pleased with the end result. 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 6
 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
 
 On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need 
 the screws/bolts.
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
 On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by 
 screws?  What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that 
 would clamp the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?
 
 ___
 
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I went the Plexus route and I was very pleased with the results. The gun was 
air powered making it easy to use and the newer products have a better working 
time than the original stuff. I'm on 4 years and happy. 
This is my second attempt however. In the original job I think I squeezed too 
much goo out and the seal Failed later that year. 
I was excited to try the 3m double sided structural aviation tape but the 
method was untried at the time and I was concerned about the resins attacking 
the acrylic like 5200 will. 
Don't fear the Plexus. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 12, 2015, at 9:49 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 For all the people on the list that have had some success with the Sika 
 option, I’m with Rick: the original Plexus solution still seems to be the 
 best option to me, so long as it’s done carefully and with the correct 
 materials.  This means that you need to use cast, not extruded acrylic for 
 the lights, and it needs to be the proper thickness (3/8” for pretty much all 
 of our boats).  On my first CC, a 1981 30mkI, the original installation 
 lasted until about 1997 before the windows started to leak; that’s sixteen 
 years.  On my current 1979 Landfall 38, the windows were incorrectly replaced 
 by the former owner before I purchased her in 2005; he used 1/4” cheap 
 acrylic, and it’s split in many places.  When I replace them this year, I 
 will be using a Plexus product and high-quality 3/8” acrylic, along with 
 LifeSeal for the final edging around the cabin sides.
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
 On Feb 12, 2015, at 9:40 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was 
 paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws
 involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the 
 windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure.
  
 Some of them are beginning to leak again and over the years I have seen some 
 spitting of the fiberglass on the inside around the windows.
 I think this was a result of hull stresses while sailing.
  
 I have solved this with thickened epoxy and a pressure clamp to squeeze the 
 splits together while the epoxy cured.
  
 My question for the list is if I decide the windows should be replaced 
 again, should I bite the bullet and go with the Plexus/glue
 route or return to a glued and screwed solution, which the first repair 
 seems to have been.
  
 Since the factory window installation began leaking early in the boats 
 history (5-10 years), I am not sure the windows were installed with the
 best solution originally so returning to a similar fix seems at least 
 counter-intuitive.
  
 Further, I am less interested in a 'pure, original solution' fix than a 
 simple fix that works, which the original fix did for ~ 12 years. Since most
 of the repair cost is likely to be in the labor involved (not the cost of 
 the windows), any solution will likely cost about the same. 
  
 Charlie Nelson
 Water Phantom
 1995 CC 36 XL/kcb
  
  
  
 cenel...@aol.com
  
  
 -Original Message-
 From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thu, Feb 12, 2015 9:22 am
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
 
 I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be 
 less stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested 
 onlooker to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years 
 ago in a similar thread has been lost here.
 
 The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to 
 stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
 
 Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 
 years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when 
 removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.
 
 Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And 
 also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.)  I used 
 Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which 
 are bedded in rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) 
 but it remains flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've 
 gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few 
 years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at 
 the stress points.
 
 As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions 
 and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum 
 frames. I just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights 
 were glued in by CC in the first place.
 
 Rick Brass 
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd 

Stus-List Hatch size on mkV

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Good evening. 
Its too cold outside and I'm too lazy to climb under Wild Rover's tarp to 
measure the forehatch. Anyone know the size of it on a 27 MkV?  Im replacing it 
this year.  The glass is translucent, the hardware is all bunged up and after 
last year it leaks like horrendously.  
Inexpensive model suggestions will be appreciated too.  Thanks

Brent Driedger
27-5 #15
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

From all this conversation I'll add the 35 to my list of possibilities. 
Only 15 years to go! Of course by then larger boats will be easily affordable. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:19 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned to 
 reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind with 
 less sail has its advantages.
 
 Sail Safe, 
 
 Mike
 Virginia Lee, 93295
 78 CC36 CB
 Virginia Beach, VA
 
 Sent from my iPad Mini
 
 
 
 From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Brent, Check out the Sailing Saralane blog, they have a CC 40 with a 
 centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
 http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
  
 Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
 Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
  
  
 I'm sure there's more.
 Richard
 1985 CC 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
  
 
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 502-584-7255
  
  
 -Original Message-
 From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CC List Canada cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
 Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Happy winter everyone. 
 I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage CCs and their ability to 
 make 
 dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
 little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
 ICW, 
 wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas. 
  His 
 spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
 who 
 knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
 tag 
 along with someone going that way for safety. 
 Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
 curious on how they handle a big sea. 
 
 Cheers
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Now that's a dream Chuck. In the near future anyway. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 28, 2015, at 4:23 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hi Brent,
 I've always felt offshore capabilities of various boats depended more on the 
 skipper than the boat.  Look at what Slocum took around the world.Now 
 they are crossing ocean with rowboats.  
 
 I've always been a fan of Finnistere, the SS 38ft centerboarder that won 
 Newport to Bermuda race several times and also did some long cruises 
 http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5663
 
 I should think a CC 34 CB known to be tender, could still be handled in most 
 conditions, and the shoal draft should be great for the shallows areas.   
 
 Call me crazy, but I also think your 27 MkV could be trailered to Florida in 
 1/10th the time and sailed to the islands just fine.  Pick your weather and 
 window and go.
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Brent, Check out the Sailing Saralane blog, they have a CC 40 with a 
 centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
 http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
  
 Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
 Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
  
  
 I'm sure there's more.
 Richard
 1985 CC 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
  
 
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 502-584-7255
  
  
 -Original Message-
 From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CC List Canada cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
 Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Happy winter everyone. 
 I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage CCs and their ability to make 
 dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
 little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
 ICW, 
 wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
 His 
 spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
 who 
 knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to tag 
 along with someone going that way for safety. 
 Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
 curious on how they handle a big sea. 
 
 Cheers
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm not planning anything right now, this is more 
food for thought.  I gotta get the young ones raised first since the Admiral 
will have no part in cruising. This particular boat is not my first choice for 
a crossing of any kind but since my crew member is in the midst of it in just 
such a yacht, I was wondering how it would treat him.  
According to his blog he crossed the Gulf Stream under power at night to get to 
Bimini.  Seems like a waste of a good sailing opportunity to me but then again 
I write this from the warm comfort of my house. 

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.   

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 28, 2015, at 5:46 PM, cpt.burt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hey Andy we are over in Beaufort. We should hook up sometime.  Maybe on the 
 May river?  
 
 
 Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an ATT 4G LTE smartphone
 
 
  Original message 
 From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 Date:01/28/2015 17:53 (GMT-05:00) 
 To: Andrew Burton , CCList 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore 
 
 Andy
 
 If you are in the ICW in Savannah look me up. We live on the water and not 
 far off the ICW. Always happy to put up a fellow CC owner at our dock for a 
 few days.
 
 Jack Fitzgerald
 HONEY
 CC 39 TM
 
 
 
 On Wed, Jan 28, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Though I like the idea of trailer ing down to Fla and sailing across, (and 
 you're right, it would be easy with the 27), I'm looking forward to doing a 
 little exploring on the way down from the Chesapeake, hopping in and out of 
 the ditch. I suspect that not having a schedule will make it as much fun as 
 cruising the Bahamas.
 
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine 
  
 
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport, RI 
 USA02840
 
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 +401 965-5260
 
 On Jan 28, 2015, at 17:23, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hi Brent,
 I've always felt offshore capabilities of various boats depended more on 
 the skipper than the boat.  Look at what Slocum took around the world.
 Now they are crossing ocean with rowboats.  
 
 I've always been a fan of Finnistere, the SS 38ft centerboarder that won 
 Newport to Bermuda race several times and also did some long cruises 
 http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=5663
 
 I should think a CC 34 CB known to be tender, could still be handled in 
 most conditions, and the shoal draft should be great for the shallows 
 areas.   
 
 Call me crazy, but I also think your 27 MkV could be trailered to Florida 
 in 1/10th the time and sailed to the islands just fine.  Pick your weather 
 and window and go.
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Brent, Check out the Sailing Saralane blog, they have a CC 40 with a 
 centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
 http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
  
 Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
 Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
  
  
 I'm sure there's more.
 Richard
 1985 CC 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
  
 
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 502-584-7255
  
  
 -Original Message-
 From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CC List Canada cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
 Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
 
 Happy winter everyone. 
 I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage CCs and their ability to 
 make 
 dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
 little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
 ICW, 
 wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas. 
  His 
 spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
 who 
 knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
 tag 
 along with someone going that way for safety. 
 Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
 curious on how they handle a big sea. 
 
 Cheers
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 
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 To change your list preferences

Stus-List 34 offshore

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Happy winter everyone. 
I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage CCs and their ability to make 
dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the ICW, 
wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
His spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
who knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
tag along with someone going that way for safety. 
Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
curious on how they handle a big sea. 

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Lavish CC's

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

She's a pretty boat but seems a little pricey. It's no Swan. But then again 
once we leave the 100k barrier on a 26 year old boat, I'm really out of touch 
with what costs are. 
She looks more suited for entertaining at the harbour then thrashing about in 
the ocean. 

Brent D
CC 27-v
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:37 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Did you see the 1989 57 in Seebrook, TX?  
 
 For only 325K, you get a 57 complete with a bar that includes 3 permanent bar 
 stools. See here:  
 http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C%26C-57-2752865/Seabrook/TX/United-States#.VMbb5P54rg4
 
 When your sailin' yacht is sporting an actual bar with stools you know you're 
 a Playah  :-)   It takes the Ultimate Man Cave idea to a whole new level. 
  
 
 PS, Here's the video from our 1st sail for 2015.  It was honkin' 18-22 steady 
 knots with gusts pushing 29-30.  Sunny, mid 50's, and gorgeous.  We hit 8.4 
 knots with a conservative 2 reefs on the main and the jib furled down to 
 about 110 % 
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daABRxXtcJc
 
 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA
 
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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce pressure on the double hook thing 
above the gooseneck. 
That being said, I don't think my double hook thing (tack hook) has ever been 
properly installed since I've owned the boat. It's a stainless rod that becomes 
the hinge pin of the gooseneck and has a very small hole through it at the 
bottom where I place a small washer and split pin to hold it in place.  Without 
the Cunningham in place the upward tension on the luff of the main places a lot 
of load on this little pin and I have had one break while reefed after 
forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted in gooseneck separation which killed 
my race as fitting it all back together in 25 knots with a boom kicker is 
nearly impossible without taking everything apart.  
What is the proper configuration of this little double hook thing (tack hook)? 
Is there something better than a split pin for this?

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 



Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and 
 Flattening Reef.  
 These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger 
 keel boats.  
 
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Antoine Rose via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: David Paine paineda...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham
 
 Hi David,
 
 To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the 
 cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean that 
 the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full length of 
 your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the halyard. As 
 wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is fully tensioned 
 but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to reef and, since 
 you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat just beside 
 yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back, increasing heeling 
 and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just that, bringing the 
 draft forward for two reasons: it increases the tensioning but also, because 
 the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the sail, pull forward the main 
 foot.
 
 Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding grommet 
 on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how it's called 
 in English, ris de fond in French). This very small reef does not reduce 
 substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the draft. A flatter 
 main points higher and reduce heeling.
 
 Antoine (CC 30 Cousin)
 
 Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
 
  Hi All,
  
  I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding 
  question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not 
  in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line 
  (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have 
  a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a 
  separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham 
  line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but 
  my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed, 
  of course.
  
  Cheers,
  
  David
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Re: Stus-List Port light Gaskets Material

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Holland Marine Products is where I got mine last time. Don't forget the butyl 
tape. 

Brent
27-5
Lake winnipeg 



Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 18, 2015, at 7:48 PM, Peter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My boat has spent the last few off-seasons on the hard in Mexico. Last time I 
 was there one of the kids knocked one of the windows and it feel off. I 
 realized that all of the ports were in similar shape. The gaskets had 
 basically turned to dust in the Mexican heat.
 
 I am up in Canada now but heading back down to the boat in a couple of weeks. 
 I boarded up one of the windows and brought the plastic window with me to get 
 it replaced. I measured the others.
 
 Before I left the boat I read about replacing the gaskets. In the post 
 someone had linked to a supplier that produces the material for the gaskets 
 for the port lights, but I can't seem to find it now.  If anyone could point 
 me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
 Kind Regards,
 Peter White
 S/V Outrider
 CC 39
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This from Sailing World: the CC Redline 41 is deemed an updated King 40. BOTY 
rules require original tooling, so the 41,although well built, is excused.
Based on the CC website I was lead to believe this was a new hull.

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 18, 2015, at 3:53 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Redline was a huge disappointment. They should take a chainsaw to the 
 interior and the price tag. 
 
 Joel
 
 On Sunday, January 18, 2015, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 CC 30 OD
 
 I just shipped 3 of these boats (hull nos: 05, 06  08) to USWatercraft's 
 Japanese dealer. All 3 boats were pre sold. The dealer has 3 more hulls on 
 order for delivery by the end of May 2015.
 
 There is also a lot of interest from Australia we well.
 
 Jack Fitzgerald
 HONEY
 US12788
 CC 39 TM
 
 
 
 On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Looking forward to finally seeing one at the Seattle Boat Show next week.  
 Hoping they'll have the a Redline 41 though I doubt it.
 
 Oh yeah...go Hawks!
 
 Tom Buscaglia
 S/V Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon WA
 P 206.463.9200
 
 
  On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Message: 2
  Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 20:15:30 -0500
  From: Jerome Tauber jrtau...@aol.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List CC30 one design at Key West
 
  There will be a CC 30 one design competing in Key West Race Week 
  starting tomorrow.  Jerry cC 27 v JJ
  Sent from my iPhone
 
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 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat Micron 66

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

VC 17 is the local favorite on the lake I sail on. I've noticed its 
effectiveness is dwindling year to year now as the lake becomes more an more a 
haven to growing blue green algea and now zebra muscles. Luckily the muscles 
haven't found my boat yet. 
Twice to 3 times per season I swim the hull and rag wipe the ooze as grows. If 
I don't it grows really thick and is very hard to get off even with a pressure 
washer. The good thing is the keel is generally not affected by any growth. 
How deep do the salt water critters go on your boats?  Is the bottom of the 
keel affected?
On a further note, there is an area on the lake about 15 miles offshore that 
when conditions are right late in August, holds a thick percentage of the Red 
Rivers outflow complete with lots of pollution and treatment plant outflow. 
Those who sail through it come back to the harbour with a putrid brown bow wave 
stain on the hull that stays until mechanically removed with a buffer!  waxing 
helps but it's awful. 

Happy holidays and merry Christmas

Brent Driedger
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 23, 2014, at 3:50 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 
 66 for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from 
 mid July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore 
 I had previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing 
 weekly and 10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.  
  
 As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
 days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
 the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled. 
  
 Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
 rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a 
 little brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off 
 from the lawns of the homes on both shores. 
  
 Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
 most expensive. 
  
 Brian
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
 Mountjoy via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
 To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
  
 I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
 off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
 Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the 
 paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty 
 it is time to go cruising.
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 Pegasus LF38
 Just west of Ballard, WA
  
 On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
 washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the 
 hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the 
 yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 
 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used 
 in this area.
  
 The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
 higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
 likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
 that races.
  
 Mike
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
 Abbott via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
 To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
  
 Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
 is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
 maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought. 
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 
 On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
 I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it was 
 my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
 keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too 
 aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) 
 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
 There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
 hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
  
 It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to 
 a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
 cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a 
 plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to 

Re: Stus-List Cool yacht SS 48 for sale

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Gorgeous boat. Nice to look at but I'll keep my plastic fantastic. 
The hull looks like an Alberg. Lost nerve to cross the ocean? In that?
Too bad. Other than leaky I'll bet it's bomb proof. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 18, 2014, at 3:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Have to agree with Joe. 
 My sense is this won't sell for more than $25K with a dead engine. 
 Nice expensive anchor and furler and pretty advanced hull design for 1964 48 
 footer, but the boat was been converted from a Sloop to a Yawl, and the 
 interior compared to more modern boats is closer to a 30 footer.   The longer 
 it waits to sell, the worse the coach roof will look.  All that wood needs 
 varnish every 6 months to look good.  Can't imagine all the leaks.  Glad I 
 don't have all that wood.   The seller states he lost his nerve to cross the 
 Atlantic and is selling, looking for offers.
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:45:52 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cool yacht for sale
 
 That is a LOT of money for a boat with wood decks and a dead engine.
 Joe
 Coquina
 
 
 On 12/18/14 15:30, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Sparkman-and-Stephens-48-foot-Yawl-/151519392351?forcerrptr=truehash=item234742725fitem=151519392351pt=Sailboats
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

From what I have read, intentional inaccuracies of GPS was a real thing. It was 
called Selective Availability and it was switched off around 2000 by the 
Clinton Admin. This made civilian GPS accurate to 20 meters +- .The 
inaccuracies we see now are the result of atmospheric and electromagnetic which 
distort the timing of the signals from the satellites.  This can be augmented 
by Differential GPS, WAAS and other systems which provide ground based timing 
corrections. 
I'm fine with that much accuracy. 

Cheers 
Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 6, 2014, at 9:18 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Civilian GPS equipment is intentionally less accurate than military 
 equipment.  Your government doesn't want you to know exactly where you are!
 
 Joel
 
 On Saturday, December 6, 2014, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Hope you are having a great, and warm, weekend, Dennis. It is rainy, gray, 
 and the high was about 60 in NC today. Not a nice day for boating.
 
  
 
 We have all experienced the sort of GPS errors you mentioned at one time or 
 another. And because we all know that our GPS receiver can calculate out 
 position to an accuracy of 30 feet or so, we tend to think that the charts 
 are wrong. But that might not be the whole truth.
 
  
 
 I’d bet NOAA had pretty good GPS location numbers on the buoys you “hit”, 
 and is not far off on the position of the seawall. The 10 to 30 foot 
 accuracy our GPS reports is based on things like the number and position of 
 the satellites from which it is getting signals, allowing for things like 
 the accuracy of its internal clock, inaccuracy in the chart datum, and the 
 radio waves that carry the time signals from the satellites getting “bent” 
 by the Earth’s magnetic field. But there is another variable that  the GPS 
 can’t allow for.
 
  
 
 I remember reading, a few years ago, about the GPS system in one of the 
 science magazines aimed at geeks like me (Probably Scientific American or 
 Air and Space, but I can’t recall for sure). Seems the GPS system is a good 
 example of Einstein’s Theory of Relativity. Part of the theory says that 
 when you go faster, time slows down relative to time measured in a location 
 that is moving more slowly.
 
  
 
 The GPS satellites are traveling at something like 18000MPH faster than we 
 are on the Earth’s surface. So the atomic clocks on the satellites “tick” 
 just a wee bit more slowly than the clock on earth. There is a government 
 facility outside of Omaha where military personnel are tasked with adjusting 
 the clocks on the satellites, by a few microseconds or nanoseconds, several 
 times per day to maintain the accuracy of the time signals relative to the 
 earthbound time. As I recall, if the clocks were not adjusted for 24 hours, 
 the calculated position of a spot on Earth would be off by something like 5 
 miles.
 
  
 
 That’s probably more than you wanted to know. But you can probably chalk up 
 all those buoys the chartplotter boat ran into to Albert.
 
  
 
 Oh, and another bit of Einstein trivia: He issued the original patents for 
 the recipe for Tolberone Chocolate, and the shape of the candy. Which is not 
 boating related, unless your Admiral likes really good chocolate.
 
 
 Rick Brass
 
 Washington, NC
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
 via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:48 AM
 To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation
 
  
 
 I was motoring up a harbor looking at a  nice Raymarine system showing the 
 boat going through a sea wall 200 feet west of our actual position. 
 
  
 
 Yesterday while motoring in the ICW channel in Santa Rosa Sound near 
 Navarre, FL, the chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the 
 right side of the channel. 
 
  
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Touché 35-1 #83
 
 Mandeville, LA
 
  
 
 Currently on the hook at
 
 30 23.054N 86 51.884W
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
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Stus-List Navigation

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Sorry, this isn't CC specific but important to our sport. Currently Team 
Vestas Wind is aground and planning to abandon ship. Is there any reason why a 
professionally crewed yacht with the latest and greatest nav equipment and 
shore assistance would come to this? Short of uncharted reefs but that doesn't 
sound to likely. 
I'm curious to know what underwater unknowns you've come across while offshore. 

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Keel seepage would concern me particularly in salt water. Not just the 
annoyance factor but the thought of anaerobic corrosion of the stainless keel 
bolts.  If this has been going on for some time I'd be inclined to drop the 
keel, inspect the bolts and do a Wally style re-bed.  It's expensive and I may 
be over thinking this but the peace of mind it would bring while offshore in 45 
knots may be worth it.

Cheers
Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 24, 2014, at 11:12 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Glad your trip was yesterday.
 
 Forecast today is for 70 km/hr winds with gusts to 100 along the shore.
 Docking would have been interesting to say the least.
 
 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1
 
 
 Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 15:12:03 + 
 From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List keel bolts 
 Message-ID: 
 
 134239895-1416841932-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1701521359-@b3.c5.bise6.blackberry
  
 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 
 
 I have to agree. I had a small leak in my bilge two summers ago that 
 strangely enough didn't go away by itself and got worse this past summer. The 
 PO had told me about a hard grounding. 
 
 I got it surveyed this fall after haul-out by a surveyor with lots of CC 
 experience. Turns out I have hidden grounding damage.  I re-launched on 
 Friday and sailed over to Bristol Marine in Port Credit on Sunday. Will be 
 $$. 
 
 At least I had a great sail yesterday...I had all Lake Ontario to myself. 
 
 Mike 
 Atacama CnC 33 
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. 
 Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell. 
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Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

My previous owner grounded very hard. When I bought the boat I ground off the 
slathered on repair and found the core resin in front of the stub had 
shattered. Because it was wet and then froze the floor of the head cracked and 
heaved. 
I took the stub back to the first keel bolt and then rebuilt it all. I stared 
with a triangle of 3/4 plywood cut to fit the angle and allowed for 1-1/2 of 
build up. I then began the tedious job of glassing it, built up into gradually 
expanding layers until it was roughly the same size as the original stub. This 
allowed me to bring the glass up the bottom and sidles of the hull to give more 
strength and help with stresses from unforeseen damage. I think I put 9 yards 
of glass on her. 
Faired and finished she's strong, looks like it should and has taken the worst 
Lake Winnipeg can throw at her while racing. Here's a quick video from the 
repair 6 years ago. 
http://youtu.be/kX00wjyGM9M

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 



Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 26, 2014, at 11:31 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Bill:
 
 You will get different advice on this issue, as you have noticed.  
 
 I am no expert, but:
 1.  there should not be cracks in the bilge sump between the keel bolts, and 
 2.  if there are cracks there, and you are quite confident that they are 
 leaking water, get it checked out by a knowledgeable person.
 
 Years back (1991), a friend bought a 1985 CC 33 MKII in near new condition.  
 That Spring we were removing the antifouling paint and discovered a hairline 
 crack around the front of the keel on the keel stub, not the keel joint where 
 we experience the CC smile between the keel stub and the keel.  Question now 
 was, it is just a surface crack?  How deep did it go into the hull?
 
 Owner hired a guy to address the issue.   He ground out the crack and it 
 almost went through the entire hull before he reached dry material.it was 
 seriously deep  The previous owner had a hard grounding during Chester Race 
 Week and did not tell my friend about it when he sold the boat.  It was a 
 significant crack and we were glad we found it and addressed it before we 
 took the boat to Boston that Summer to do the Marblehead Race.
 
 Your call, but I would have someone experienced in these matters put my mind 
 at rest.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On 2014/11/26 12:55 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List wrote:
 Thanks for the info, when I am on the hard next I will try this.
 I am certain is it coming from the small cracks from visual observations. 
 I wonder if Wally would like to leave the sunny south and make a trip up to 
 the frozen north for a little hull repair work ;-)
 Cheers,
 Bill
 
 On Nov 26, 2014, at 7:13 AM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Bill
 
 1/2 cup per day is not really much water ingress...on my 35MKII water does 
 come down the mast when it rains and accumulates under the mast step...it 
 can move slowly show into the bilge...are you certain that is not the 
 source of the 1/2 cup per day...If you have an issue with water getting in 
 from below it should show up when the boat is on the hard...fill the bilge 
 with water and it should leak out and maybe let you know   
 where the source of the leak is...grind that area out both sides at the 
 keel hull joint and dry well...then squeeze in some polyurethane sealant , 
 let that cure well...cover with epoxy putty and finally with resin soaked 
 chopped strand glass matt...what you describe does not sound that serious 
 to me so I don't think you would need to do a major repair...but if you 
 have the extra cash separate the keel afrom the hull and do like Wally did 
 on his Landfall 38...that job was probably better than when it came from 
 the factory
 
 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35 MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 d.ve...@bellaliant.net
 
 
 On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 1:28 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I did shop-vac the bilge and wipe it dry. The water influx was slow - 
 about 1/2 cup per day at most. But that was at the dock, sailing hard the 
 influx might be more, i will check when I go out next. I think there has 
 been some contact between the keel ad something hard in its past life but 
 not too sure how hard and what repairs were done. The cracks are not in 
 the keel structure as it is very strong but in the sump area between the 
 bolts. I doubt the cracks extend directly to the outside hull. The leaks 
 are probably from the CC smile to the hull-keel interface.
 
 I am bobing about on a 750'x137’ drillship watching a cold front pass by - 
 we are getting 30knt sustained outside, sea’s don’t look too bad from 80’ 
 up - maybe 10-14’. check out: 
 http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:464725/imo:9609392/mmsi:373287000/vessel:WEST%20AURIGA
 
 Bill Hoyne
 Mithrandir
 ’74 CC35 MkII
 in Victoria,BC
 
 
 
 
 On Nov 24, 2014, at 3:00 PM,  

Re: Stus-List CC 29 for sale in Portsmouth, VA

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'd jump all over that one if I were closer. At that price I could drag it back 
North of the border and flip it at a profit. I see no water staining inside but 
the rig is likely ready for new standing wires and that mainsail looks very 
tired. Small complaints at that price. 

Brent 
27v
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 14, 2014, at 4:50 PM, Steve Staten via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I only paid $4,400 for my 1976 CC 26 three years ago. The interior is good. 
 Cushions are clean. The electrical system works. The water jacket on the Vire 
 engine needed welding.  The seller was motivated and put it on eBay. However, 
 the many cracks in the cabin roof causes leaks that are only now being 
 repaired. The toe rail leaks in places too.  
 
 Steve Staten
 C'est La Vie CC 26
 Grand Lake
 Langley, OK
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
 Youngblood via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 1:39 PM
 To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 29 for sale in Portsmouth, VA
 
 I don't know anything about that boat, but they are killing us with that low 
 price!
 
 
 
 
 Is anyone on the list familiar with a 1983 CC 29, called Arias, 
 that is in the Portsmouth/Norfolk/Hampton area?
 
 I have a friend who is looking for a boat, as you may recall, and 
 I've pretty much sold her on buying a CC between 29 and 35 feet. 
 Arias is listed on Craigslist right now, and my friend is taken with 
 what she can see in the photos. I've been asked to find out more 
 about the boat and arrange a trip to look at her.
 
 I figured someone in the CC fraternity might be able to give me a 
 little bit of history about the boat.
 
 http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/4756271361.htmlhttp://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/4756271361.html
 
 Thanks for the help.
 
 Rick Brass
 Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2
 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1
 Washington, NC
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Custom CC Race boats (was - boat terms)

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I love hearing about a boat who's name is well known and never changed through 
different owners.  In the 27-5 there is Smoke, the prototype mark 5 which was 
sailed very hard for its first season to see what kind of performance they 
could squeeze out of the design. She's rumoured to be the fastest hull of the 
mark 5's. I was very happy to hear she kept her name when she changed hands a 
few years ago. Cool history 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Thanks, Ed
 
 Always nice to add another tidbit to Touche's history.  One of the joys of 
 owning a piece of local sailing history.
 
 Last chatted with Gene Walet years ago at a regatta in Biloxi.  Fine Southern 
 gentleman.  He remembered selling Touche' to AJ Skip Carpenter in 1971.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 7:23 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 In the mid 1970's TRUE NORTH came south to Lake Pontchartrain. She was a 
 custom CC 37 designed and built to defend the Canada's Cup. Flush deck with 
 ant hills, sockets moulded into the deck to accept winch handles. The ant 
 hills were cross linked so that the leeward winch could be ground from the 
 windward side. She was brought to the lake by Gene Walet, a former Olympic 
 sailor and then the local CC dealer to provide competition to Corrie, CC 
 39 hull # 2 or 3 and Touché. Gene added rather crude extensions to the aft 
 curvature of the hull extending past the reverse transom for some 
 undiscernabe rating or performance benefit. A recent Google search pulled up 
 a report of TN having done well in the Trans Superior race a few years ago. 
 It would be nice to hear about her current status. Gene replaced TN with 
 White Pony, one of the early CC 38's, which was never competitive with the 
 CC 39.
 
 Ed
 CC 34 Briar Patch
 New Orleans 
 
 On Monday, November 10, 2014, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 While we’re on the subject of custom CC race boats does anyone know 
 anything about this one?
 
 It looks like a 38 MK I or II hull with a mostly flush deck and racing 
 cabin layout.
 
 At first I thought it might be the One Tonner but the deck layout in the 
 pictures is quite different than in the magazine ad that I have a scan of.
 
 http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-38-2744779/Canada#.VGEhiclMpD4
 
  
 
  
 
 Rick Taillieu
 
 Nemesis
 
 '75 CC 25  #371
 
 Shearwater Yacht Club
 
 Halifax, NS.
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
 Stratton via CnC-List
 Sent: November-10-14 15:12
 To: 'Martin DeYoung'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'jtsails'
 Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms
 
  
 
 Somehow I knew this was an easy one for all you listers. Thanks so much. My 
 next stop is IOR ton rating. Had no clue…
 
  
 
 I wonder now how many and for how long CC made these custom class-racers.  
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
 DeYoung via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:55 PM
 To: jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms
 
  
 
 Burt,
 
  
 
 James’ answer leading you to search using “IOR ton rating is good advice.  
 In short, the term “ton” was based on an IOR rating band that allowed IOR 
 boats to race “one design”.  IIRC the popular “ton” classes were: ¼. ½, ¾, 
 1, and 2. Sailing Anarchy has had several recent topics that cover IOR and 
 “Ton” racing well.
 
  
 
 Calypso would have rated as a 2 tonner. A J-24 sized boat would be close to 
 a ¼ tonner.  Today there is a resurgence of ton class racing with ¼ and ½ 
 ton regattas being well attended.  Boats that had been neglected for years 
 are being resurrected, modernized and raced hard.
 
  
 
 Back in the heyday of IOR racing I had the opportunities to race 
 extensively on ¾, 1, and 2 ton class boats.  The racing was tight and fun.  
 We used bloopers.  In the PNW town of Bellingham a regatta called PITCH 
 (Pacific International Ton Championship) was started in the early 80’s.  
 The racing was as intense as the partying. Protest meeting often went past 
 dinner time.
 
  
 
 Martin
 
 Calypso
 
 1971 CC 43
 
 Seattle
 
 
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To 

Re: Stus-List post

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I've found those white caps available at electrical wholesalers. 

Brent
CC 27-5

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 6, 2014, at 5:25 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Howard,
 
 West sells the screw covers in white and ivory.  Can't help with the LEDs, 
 but I also need a few.
 
 Joel
 
 On Thursday, November 6, 2014, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Does anyone have a lead on where to get replacements for the little red 
 lenses on the electrical panel of mid 80's CC's.  Mine is an 84 35-3 and 
 about 1/2 of the red caps are AWOL.  I am also trying to track down about 12 
 of the cream colored caps that go over the screw and clear circular keeper 
 on the removable ceiling panels . Thanks.
 Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
 
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 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 89

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I find the 27 mkV is very easy to surf. Keeping it there is the hard part. 15 
knots of true wind with a swell will do it and is key to racing well. I have 
not managed to make her surf with wind alone and I'm not sure it can without 
blowing something up. Be interesting to hear otherwise. 

Brent 
27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:13 AM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My best surfing experience was 12 knots boat speed, in 42 knots true wind 
 speed, down the Straits of Juan de Fuca ---until my spinnaker exploded.  It 
 was a hell of a ride while it lasted.
 
 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR
 
 Hi Rob and Hank,
 Did any of the CC models have a particular strength in surfing (or planing) 
 down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall talking to 
 Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing performance 
 but I was remiss in not asking what CC models have the strongest surfing 
 potential. 
 Thank you
 Dave
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
  
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Overpriced?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'll chime in on this as Bowline Yachts was the broker for my boat back when I 
bought it and I know the owner well. At first glance the prices they ask seem 
high and become the frequent talk at the club but with respect to the company's 
owner I'll provide a little insight to explain though not necessarily justify 
the prices.
In central Canada here there is not much option for buying used sailboats. The 
market is not saturated by any means and the stock of quality used boats 
available is thin. This usually means pay what the owner wants or outsource to 
the south and pay for exchange, shipping, border brokerage,  flights to and 
from the location, permits and lots of survey charges. When you total it all up 
the prices end up being fairly close to what Bowline typically charges. Then 
add to that there is the comfort level of knowing the history of the local 
boats, their owners and background. Further to that, our season is short so all 
of these boats are out of water for 7 months of the year. The boats are in 
fresh water the remaining 5 and on Lake of the Woods there's little swell to 
speak of even in storms. The biggest hazard is grounding and unfortunately most 
sailboats there have touched bottom.  The remainder will some day. The rigs 
although 30 plus years old show no corrosion or acid rain pitting. Gene
 rally outside of wet decks or blisters, a 35 year old boat is in 20 year old 
condition if it was decently maintained. 
I agree that $65000 for an 84 32 is very high but the price will appeal to 
those who want a quick painless purchase with background confidence of a 
quality fresh water boat. It may include a slip too which at my harbour is 
impossible to get now. I would expect a fair bit of negotiation will bring it 
closer to reality as well. 
Cheers

Brent Driedger
CC 27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 25, 2014, at 12:11 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 While I think this appears to be a nicely equipped and well maintained boat, 
 I think the owner is overly optimistic with his asking price.  We bought our 
 boat in 2006 for half that price and it was a well maintained, fresh water, 
 one owner boat.
 
 Sure would like to hear any and all comments on this!
 
 
 http://www.bowlineyachts.ca/sailboats/1984candclegacy.html
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
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Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I did the hull of my 27 with a random orbital sander six years ago. I came to 
the conclusion that when bad sailors die they go to a boatyard in hell to sand 
hulls for eternity. 
Any price to have someone do a soda job for you is cheap. 
This is possibly the worst job in boat ownership. 

Brent
27v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 24, 2014, at 10:42 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I am looking for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers 
 of bottom paint.
 
 I am also interested to find out what is the cost per foot being charged.
 
 Fred Hazzard
 S/V Fury
 CC 44
 Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'd win this had I kept the storm jib from my prior boat a Vision 6.60 The jib 
came from a 50s vintage Lightning (original sail) and other than torn up batten 
pockets the sail was great. I still have the mainsail in my basement. I sold 
the Vision 6 years ago. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 23, 2014, at 6:35 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  
 I am going to take the working jib down to the boat in case we get a honking 
 25 knot day so I can get a good beat in and it occurred to me that the jib 
 came from CC when the boat was new in 1973. Does anyone have an older sail 
 than that?
  
  
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 CC 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List All is lost.. Disapointing flick

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

It upset me that after the storm he stepped back aboard the 3/4 sunk boat in a 
dead calm and instead of trying to pump out and save her, he stepped into the 
life raft. But to the movies credit this was not a how to movie. This was a 
story of one man and what he did, right or wrong. Nobody ever said he was an 
educated sailor nor was it implied. There are a lot of boneheads and credit 
card captains who venture offshore and haven't the slightest idea how to cope 
when things go sideways.
That being said it's not exactly on my like list of sailing cinema. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Movie was 1980s technology.   I thought it was excellent and conveyed the 
 sense of individual courage in a period of desperation and impending doom.  
 The boat was allegorical.  The ending scene was from Michelangelo's Sistine
 Chapel.  Jerry
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:43 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I totally agree with Chuck.  
 
 This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions 
 like: 
 
 -  No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
 -  No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof,  no GPS, no AIS.
 - Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
 - Aimlessly drifting around
 - Gets hit by the container  hard enough to make a huge hole yet it was 
 perfectly calm, still, and his engine is not running. Was there an engine 
 running on the container? 
 - Tacks and puts the gaping hole to leeward therefore getting the hole in 
 the drink, with un-trimmed sails, shouldn't he had kept it to windward and 
 keep it dry while figuring out what to do? He was while sailing around 
 aimlessly anyway..
 - Etc, etc, etc
 
 I guess he gets some credit for conveying all the emotions without saying a 
 single word the whole movie.. 
 
 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This is how I'm setting up next year using a Grigri. It makes a great ascender 
/ descender. Check it out. 
http://youtu.be/BkErYrEWOMA

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
   Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of 
 projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
 
   Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if 
 so, what did you use. 
 
   There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
 it’s on my mind.
 
   And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 
 
 
   All the best,
 
   Edd
 
 
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

All tests negative in Canada. When it comes here we're just going to pull its 
jersey over its head and punch it into submission. 
CC forever

Brent Driedger
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 
Ebola free, not zebra muscle. 


Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in 
 the US and Canada.
 
 Wal
 
 -- 
 s/v Stella Blue
 www.wbryant.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Great video Edd, I love sailing at night. Nice to see speed bring out the 
laughs. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 20, 2014, at 9:53 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Great video, Brent. 
 
 We shot something similar on the Enterprise during some night racing. Here's 
 the link: http://youtu.be/2I69h6fwL1E
 
 Just saw several listers at the CC Rendezvous in Newport. Great bunch of 
 people. So happy we were able to spend some time with them, even though we 
 came by car. 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 5
 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
 
 
 On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still in 
 the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last race 
 of the season.
 This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
 Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 boats. 
 Back to flying sails next year!
 https://vimeo.com/106679764
 
 Brent Driedger
 CC 27 MkV
 s/v Wild Rover
 Lake Winnipeg
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks David. Where is Mistress now?

Brent


Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 20, 2014, at 6:07 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Nice video Brent. Your crew looks effcient.
 
 Mistress has few 2nd and 3rd in the flying sails at Gimli in her past. Not 
 racing anymore.
 
 Say high to Dale for me.
 
 David Donnelly
 CC 26 Mistress
 
 Sent with AquaMail for Android
 http://www.aqua-mail.com
 
 
 On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still in 
 the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last race 
 of the season.
 This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
 Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 boats. 
 Back to flying sails next year!
 https://vimeo.com/106679764
 
 Brent Driedger
 CC 27 MkV
 s/v Wild Rover
 Lake Winnipeg
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Re: Stus-List Racing my MkV video

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'll forward the message to Dale. He's been tearing ass in the Sonar class and 
doing very well. I think they won the Mb keelboat championships again this year 
on Lake of the Woods racing against two Antrim 27s, J80 and the T10 just to 
name a few. 

Cheers
Brent
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 20, 2014, at 8:45 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Mistress is now on Lake Wabamun which is about an hour drive west of 
 Edmonton. We are really happy with the boat so far.
 
 David
 
 Sent with AquaMail for Android
 http://www.aqua-mail.com
 
 
 On September 20, 2014 7:23:27 PM Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca 
 wrote:
 
 Thanks David. Where is Mistress now?
 
 Brent
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Sep 20, 2014, at 6:07 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Nice video Brent. Your crew looks effcient.
 
  Mistress has few 2nd and 3rd in the flying sails at Gimli in her past. Not 
  racing anymore.
 
  Say high to Dale for me.
 
  David Donnelly
  CC 26 Mistress
 
  Sent with AquaMail for Android
  http://www.aqua-mail.com
 
 
  On September 20, 2014 11:31:59 AM Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Sailors seasonal depression is already kicking in and the boat is still 
  in the water! I put this together from the stern rail footage of our last 
  race of the season.
  This year my crew and I returned to white sails as a back to basics year. 
  Our goal was achieved with 2nd place for the season in a fleet of  7 
  boats. Back to flying sails next year!
  https://vimeo.com/106679764
 
  Brent Driedger
  CC 27 MkV
  s/v Wild Rover
  Lake Winnipeg
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Re: Stus-List Nice sail but dangerous waters in harbor

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The best I can do is while nearly asleep in the quarterberth at my slip, I 
heard the unmistakable sound of a carp slamming full speed into the rudder. The 
next morning it lay dead in the water near my boat. Big too. 
No alligators in Lake Winnipeg, just sea monsters. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 15, 2014, at 5:26 PM, schiller via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 So, what exactly is a moderately sized alligator?  To me, anything bigger 
 than a pet store size is bigger than a moderately sized alligator.  We 
 don't have much in Lake Michigan that wants to eat us!
 
 Neil Schiller
 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
 (CC 35, Mark I)
 Corsair
 538243
 
 On 8/15/2014 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
 Finished a couple boat jobs yesterday and decided to go out on the lake for 
 a late afternoon sail.  Not much breeze but a pleasant sail nonetheless.
 
 After the pleasant uneventful sail, I entered Mandeville Harbor afterwards 
 (30 20' 50, 90 03' 46).  There was a guy on the seawall fighting a fish.  
 His buddy waved at me to move to the far side of the entrance to allow him 
 to play the fish.  As I went by the fish broke the surface.  Wow!  Looked 
 like a 3-4 footer, species unknown.  Then his line broke.  Too bad.
 
 I continued up the harbor into the narrow bayou and made the sharp right 
 hand turnHoly Crap!  Here comes one of my marina friends in his Leopard 
 38 catamaran with 20+ foot beam.  I eased as far to the edge of the channel 
 watching that my shrouds didn't hit overhanging branches from a cypress 
 tree.  We passed with 3 feet between us.
 
 A couple hundred yards later I had to dodge a moderately sized alligator 
 swimming up the bayou.  
 
 Glad to get Touche' back into the slip.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Read it and Weep

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Holy crap Wal, it cost $20,000 +- to re power your boat? Wow!
That's a more than a few boat units!!

Brent D
CC 27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 


Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 6, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I hear ya Wal  LOL. 
 
 My boat was a pretty far cry from being neglected as well.  
 
 The cabin's teak had just been re-oiled, Galley sink had a brand new shiny 
 faucet, cushions had just been cleaned and in very good nick, sails appeared 
 in decent shape etc, etc, etc. 
 
 We all looked at the boat and all exclaimed OMG it's gorgeous.. I had it 
 pre-purchase inspected and surveyed both..
 
 My list is not near as long as yours although it's only over 12 months.. So 
 far.   But what I shared is actually a fraction of what I've spent on the 
 boat in the past year.  That was just a For Instance as a warning.  
 
 Those boats are demanding mistresses my friends, demanding mistresses: Very 
 pretty, ego stroking, entertaining, exciting, DEMANDING.  
 
 Regards, 
 
 -Francois
 1990 34+  Take Five
 Lake Lanier, Georgia. 
 
 
 
 
 Read it and weep: http://www.wbryant.com/temp/refurbcost.pdf  or read it
 and laugh.  Or laugh and weep.  Or drink tequila and don't worry about it...
 
 The amazing thing is that I did most of the work myself, and very little of
 it was cosmetic.  That was intentional.  The boat is structurally sound
 enough to survive anything that *I'm* structurally sound enough to survive,
 but if thieves are cruising by in a panga trying to decide which boat to
 break into, they'll probably choose somebody else.
 
 BTW, the boat that started this thread is not a neglected boat in any book.
 
 Wal
 
 you wrote:
  Fair warning:  You'll spend far more then you think refurbishing a 
  neglected boat, even buying used stuff,  being creative with eBay, and 
  working on it yourself .
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling Drilling w_Epoxy

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I re bedded the majority of my deck hardware with butyl tape 5 years ago and 
I'm very pleased with the results. I drilled and filled as required and used 
the thinnest butyl I could find. So far no problems other than a slight 
tightening of the hardware over time.  This is not a maintenance ending 
procedure, the parts will have to be pulled eventually and reseated once all 
the butyl squishes out but at least the core will be preserved thanks to the 
epoxy fill. Water leaks will be just that. Water leaks. Just a nuisance and not 
an issue. 

Brent D
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Aka Feral Dog

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 8, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Happy weekend all,
 
  
 
 I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with 
 butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and 
 drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is Git Rot appropriate for 
 this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for when I have a 
 spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the better.
 
  
 
 Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” sites.
 
  
 
 Thanks,
 
 Kevin
 
 30-2
 
 PDX 
 
 
 
 Kevin Driscoll
 Portland,  Oregon
 503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List eBay Scores!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Do your Barient 22s need a new home? That's a nice primary size for my boat. 

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 3, 2014, at 8:25 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 thats quite a score!!!
 congrats!
 
 
 -- Original Message --
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List eBay Scores!
 Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0500
 
 Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow 26's) 
 and cabin top winches (Barient 22's).  The bases for the secondaries are 
 losing some of the anodizing.  The alloy primaries had lost some teeth on the 
 inside of the drum but had been repaired.
 
 Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of chrome 
 bronze Barlow 28's.  Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using claz.org.  
 Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me.
 Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad.  Been 
 looking for more chrome winches.  2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and 
 scored a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's.  A day later I scored a pair of 
 stainless Barient 22's.
 So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches.  All for under 
 $1100.  Just have to be patient and keep searching.
 
 Should make the boat look much nicer.  Sweet!  :)
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I just replaced mine last night. Ridiculously easy job. Cleaned the tank out, 
pumped lots of fresh water through and took it apart. I only lost about a litre 
of water onto the head floor. 
I was getting tired of coming back from a sail and having to swab the head!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
(Where's the wind?!?!!)

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 31, 2014, at 8:31 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff.
  
 Gary
 - Original Message -
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
 To: CnClist
 Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war!
 
 I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
 back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
 anti-siphon loop.   
 
 As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
 most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
 material.
 
 I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
 I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
 
 Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
 build up.
 
 This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
 $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
 altogether.
 
 Any other tricks?
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
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