Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

3M is highly regarded, you can get them in heat shrink with adhesive, which
is the gold standard as far as I know.
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000195661/


On Sun, Oct 30, 2022 at 11:06 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What brand or how do I recognize high quality crimp connector
>
> On Sun, Oct 30, 2022 at 11:01 AM Doug via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> To avoid problems of wires falling off of terminals.  I use high quality
>> crimp connectors. Try to avoid the spade connector.  I also use the heat
>> shrink type in all wet and engine room connections.  I also use a quality
>> crimping tool.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> sv Rebecca Leah
>> C & C Landfall 39
>> Port Orchard Yacht Club
>> +1 253-208-1412 WhatsApp
>> +52 669-267-4740 phone
>>
>>
>> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>

Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Be sure to put the house feed positive on the first battery and negative on
the second battery otherwise it will draw unevenly.

Especially if you have some dirty connections.

On Mon., Jul. 4, 2022, 10:14 a.m. Jeff Nelson via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Assuming you simply want to double your storage capacity, put the
> batteries side by side, wire positive to positive and
> negative to negative.
>

Stus-List Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Anyone know what these were finished with? Looking to clean ours up and
refinish the treads.

It's matte and not a varnish. Maybe an oil?

Stus-List Ft. Lauderdale / Miami Sailors

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Hello Listers, while our C is tucked away buried in 2' of snow in
Kingston Ontario we've left the frozen north to winter in the Ft.
Lauderdale area.

I'm looking to get out sailing in the Florida area to get some more
experience with navigating around Florida for future cruising in
the Caribbean and Bahamas.

Anyone in the area have suggestions where to find a boat for some low-key
racing? Or just pleasure sailing?

Thanks,

Chad
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I bought 3x 100ah 12v Xubi LiFePo4 batteries from Alibaba. Shipping was
around 6-8 weeks with COVID.
I'm running 3x in parallel and so far they've been great. One 3 day trip
with motoring, and day cruising where I run the fridge and AP.

So far no issues.

If the BMS does disconnect for high-voltage cutoff while the Alternator is
charging / spinning then it's going to blow something up in the alternator.
To mitigate that I've been running our starting bank in parallel while the
motor is running (and most of the time sailing as well).

There is a relay that is available from Marine How-To that combines the
house and starting banks when the voltage is above 13.4v or something like
that.

The Xubi batteries are drop-in style and have a charging rate of 50A and
discharge of 100A, so plenty of power in and out for my needs. We have a
newer 40A charger that has no issues charging.

Usually my 30 minutes of motoring with the 2GM20 40A alternator charges me
back up to 90+% so I don't worry about topping them off.

On Tue, Sep 14, 2021 at 9:27 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium batteries
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Shroud tension

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

There is a good guide to the elongation process by Selden.
https://support.seldenmast.com/files/595-540-E.pdf (Page 32)
For us, this turned out to be almost the same as what the local C owner
said he does..

Hand tight, plus a turn and a half.

Then take it sailing and if it's floppy give it another turn.

On Tue, Jun 1, 2021 at 9:49 AM WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good morning,
>I dont have a loose gauge for my solid shrouds.   Wondering how much
> slack do you see on leeward shrouds when on beam reach in 10 knots of
> wind?  Shrouds seem tight enough when at the dock, but a little floppy on
> leeward side when sailing.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36-1
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: UFO NOISE

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

It can also be the mast making the noise. Haul a line up on the halyard and
wrap it around the mast in a few places. It helps on our boat when we have
some howling.

On Tue., May 18, 2021, 9:38 p.m. Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We grabbed the shrouds one day made no difference. We're thinking it might
> be the annamometer going bad. Although it is only 3 years old.
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Winter Cover Measurements for C 30-2

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

You could contact Quinte Canvas (Top Shop). I know they have all the sizes
on file and have built many of them. I'm not sure if they'd want to sell
one or just provide the sizes, but they're supposed to be a great product.

On Sun., Dec. 15, 2019, 12:01 p.m. kelly petew via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey fellow C listers,
>
> Does anyone use a winter cover on their boat?  If so, would you have its
> measurements handy to share?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> 1991 C
>
> Siren Song
>
>
>
> Deltaville, Va.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Blue Loctite is for pieces that need to be disassembled again, I'd suggest
that over Red for your case.

On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 2:10 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mike
>
> I got a large knurled nut (external diameter equals the hub) from Edson.
> It will still come loose with some vibration over a day but I can tighten
> it way harder (and easier!) than with the previous smaller plastic hex nut.
>
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Stus-List C 30 MKII Shaft Packing Size?

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Anyone know what size packing material to use for a 30-2?
I had the yard open up the gland for me since it was impossible to move
without the proper sized wrenches and I forgot to ask them to measure it
for me.

Thanks,
___

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Re: Stus-List Winter cover C 40

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Quinte Canvas has most dimensions and made a lot of covers for C's.


http://www.topshop.on.ca

They can probably assist with dimensions.
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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mk1 - Issue at top of mast when Furling

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

It's only used for furlers to make sure there is sufficient angle between
the halyard and the forestay so the halyard doesn't get wrapped up too.


Our 30-2 which is wire to rope has a simple metal bracket holding the
halyard to the mast to get sufficient angles, it seems less expensive then
a full sheve or pulley. You may want to look for something like that.

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018, 2:32 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 1980 version doesn’t. Must be for a roller furler.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for an LED fixture to replace Overhead Fluorescent lighting

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

We just bought some new 60 LED/ft strips from Lee Valley, a new switch, and
retrofitted with 3x 1' strips of LED's in the housing after hitting the
existing components.

More brightness at hopefully less power.


We did the one in the galley and I plan on doing the head one next.


On Mon, Sep 3, 2018, 12:23 PM kelly petew via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> the overhead fluorescent lighting [double tubes] in my 30MKII no longer
> works.  Thinking the fluorescent tubes were my problem and wanting improved
> lighting in the saloon, I bought Marinebeam's t5 replacement tubes and
> re-wired the existing fixture to bypass the ballast.  However, it appears
> the *FIXTURE* is bad.
>
>
>
> Can anyone recommend a replacement Fixture that will fit in the overhead
> liner [approx. dimensions = 5"W, 11 1/4"L, 15/16"D]??
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Pete W.
>
>
> Siren Song
>
> C
>
> Deltaville, Va.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

In Canada, if you wish to legally use your VHF in the USA and other
countries you need to obtain a radio license for the radio, which IC will
then grant you a call sign, the once you have a radio license in Canada you
are supposed to use this call sign in all VHF transmissions.


http://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/smt-gst.nsf/eng/sf08764.html

If your just using it in Canadian waters no license is required and you can
just use the boat name as others had commented on.
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Re: Stus-List Grab rail replacement

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Ok so I'll just plug the holes with a dab of 5200 and glue it up at home
and see if I can make it look like new. If I can't at least I'll have a
template to get my saw and router going.


The even worst news is I seem to have a soggy core around the forward most
hole extending at least a few inches in each direction.

I'm hoping to dig it out using a nail on a drill bent at an angle, and the
once I get to solid wood let it dry, then fill with thickened epoxy. Does
that make sense? No way to get the headliner down easily and I don't want
to cut the deck open either to repair from the top.
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Stus-List Grab rail replacement

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I was planning on rebedding the grab rails on our 30-2 and it seems the
first one just cracked in 3 places while I was trying to remove it.


Any chance in getting a replacement or do I need to start gluing it back
together?
___

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Re: Stus-List little fixes on the C 30 MKII

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Our C 30 mk 2 has the same panel, but no wires going to any of the tanks.
So I'd think they they were roughed in on the panels but never connected.
We just installed a Profile tank monitor for the holding tank last week and
mounted it beside the DC panel.

Our ignitier also doesn't work on the oven but does up top. Sorry I haven't
looked at it yet to figure out why.
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Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Is this the black and orange 4 port manifold? If so, each side of the knobs
has either a round part or a pointed part at the end. The orientation is
vertically, with the pointed part up for open, or the rounded end for
closed.

If they're sideways it will not work.

I ended up removing mine to get a better look. The difference in the ends
is subtle, so I used a marker to mark the pointed ends black.

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> As new owners of our C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had
> a ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall
> appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for
> assistance hopefully.
>
> The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty
> much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never
> could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge
> up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the
> settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to
> this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump
> and from there to the galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect
> I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct
> valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the
> valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round,
> possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running
> down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing
> apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the
> dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you
> run both tanks together, or not?
>
> Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self
> priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump
> would be an alternate question?
>
> Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley
> previously!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII, Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

We had the opposite, speed didn't show, but direction did. Sending it to
Raymarine was a fixed rate repair. They replaced the speed portion of the
unit.

You can check the back of the unit to watch the voltage swings indicating
direction, but odds are it's the masthead sensor.

To verify, check the blue and green wires against the sheild. They will be
between 2 and 6v depending on the wind direction. Blue / Ground is port.

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 7:33 PM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m having an intermittent issue with the wind instrument on Pulse. I
> believe it’s the i50 i60 package. It always shows digital wind speed on the
> display, but the directional indicator seems to freeze up.
>
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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Did you try drilling the crack out to stop it and patching with G/Flex?

I did ours 3 years ago, and have had great success.
Mine cracked up and over the side and top, luckily near an area we had
access to.

Not sure if you want to give it a try or if you're already past that point,
but a small gflex kit is a lot less then a new tank or bladder.
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Re: Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I'm sure more experts will chime in here, but my understanding is that
water ingress is extremely common, our survey indicated the same, and a
previous survey also had a wet rudder.

During the previous survey we had some questions and our surveyor brought
in one of the main people from Bristol Marine, and they were also
unconcerned by the wet saturated rudder.

With that being said, expansion of freezing water could lead to splitting
of the rudder edges, which I understand to be more serious. We have been
drilling a small 1/4" hole yearly that gets patched I'm the spring with
G/Flex epoxy. The hole allows any excess water to drain.

We check for cracks quite closely during launching, but otherwise not too
concerned about the moisture.

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018, 8:04 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm new to this list - my wife and I just purchased a 1981 C 34 center
> board version.  The boat has been on the hard for about 1.5 years after
> being a salt water boat here in the Boston area.  The surveyor assessed
> that the rudder was "saturated and delaminating" and he recommended
> rebuilding or replacing it due to concern about corrosion of the stainless
> rudder post in the low-oxygen environment inside the rudder.  (My surveyor
> wasn't specifically familiar with the C boats from this vintage).  I
> called South Shore Yachts last week to inquire about getting a new rudder
> built - but they suggested that it likely wasn't necessary and that they
> had never seen one fail due to corrosion of the stainless steel rudder post
> (which is my main concern) and that while most likely the welded carbon
> steel plate inside the rudder would have surface rust it wasn't likely to
> be a structural issue.
>
> Following the recommendation from them and on some of the forums, I
> drilled several 1/4" holes in the rudder to investigate further.  The hole
> in the bottom drilled upwards just hit fiberglass for the length of the
> drill bit ~2.5 inches as did a side hole about 3 inches up.  In the side
> about 5 inches up from the bottom, I did hit water that drained out and
> another hole about 12 inches from the top in the middle of the side also
> hit water and saturated soft foam.  I did not hit a metal plate in either
> location.  The hole in the top went through a layer of fiber glass in the
> middle and then into foam in the other side.  Combined both holes drained
> about 3 cups of water from the rudder in the first hour or so and maybe a
> little more over night.  The water that drained out was not rust colored
> but rather tinted black.  So the surveyor was correct that the rudder is
> full of water and the foam inside is pretty soft.  However, it also seems
> like the fiberglass is thick and pretty solid and there is no sign of
> cracking from it freezing during the winter.
>
> Obviously, I would prefer to avoid the cost of rebuilding/replacing the
> rudder if it isn't necessary, but also don't want to take on too high a
> risk of having a catastrophic failure of the rudder while under way. Once
> the rudder dries out a bit, I could just fill the holes I drilled with
> epoxy and perhaps try to seal around where the rudder post comes out of the
> top which is where I assume the water got in the first place since it
> didn't drain out with the boat on the hard for over a year.
>
> Any experience out there investigating potential corrosion of similar
> vintage and design C rudders or other recommendations?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
>
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> C 34
> Malden, MA USA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 30-2, Rod rigging tension and rake.

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I guess I'll keep an eye out for a Loos rod gauge.

We are launching and stepping the mast this week so I'll give it a good
inspection and review the condition of the mast step and take lots of
photos.

If you can share your values I'd appreciate it, and if I can't find a gauge
on eBay I'll break down and buy a new one.

We are in a small marina so I'm doubtful if I can find a rod based on at
any of the other boats.

Thanks,

Chad

On Tue, May 22, 2018, 3:54 PM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Chad, I currently have the mast out of my 30-2 and can send photos of
>> the step, if you like. but these mast steps are built much better than the
>> older 30-1's. If your rods are stretching then they may have been tensioned
>> beyond their yield and maybe prone to failure. IF this is the case you
>> should have them inspected. Like the previous comment said, get a LOOS
>> Gauge. It is the only way to get a proper set up, or to have a valid
>> starting point to tune the rig from. If you can get one I can share the
>> values that I use for my preset. Also note that it is normal the leeward
>> shrouds to be a bit slack and that too much rig tension can bring the mast
>> down as quickly as not not enough.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Morgan Ellis
> S/V Meandher, 30-2 #140
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 30-2, Rod rigging tension and rake.

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I'll take a look at the mast shoe, I'm not sure what the 30-2 mast step is
made from, but it did seem a lot easier to access the the 30-1 photos I've
seen.



>
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Stus-List 30-2, Rod rigging tension and rake.

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Hi all, our 30-2 is due to splash in a week, and this is the second full
season for us owning it, and it's our first boat, so I'm full of questions.

Originally, a rigger helping us move our boat mentioned he thought the
rigging was too loose and could use a few turns to tighten it up, so we
tightened across the board a few turns.

This year, I plan on using the Selden method, of attaching a dowel 2M up
from the turnbuckles and measuring the stretch in the rods and backstays to
get a better idea of tension, but I'm afraid that I may run out of
turnbuckle length, we were very close to bottoming out the turnbuckles last
year, and we still had floppy lowers at 15 knots close hauled.


Is this rod stretch? fiberglass creeping? Our chain plates are in excellent
condition, so it doesn't seem to be anything related to rot in the plates.

Could the core / aft placement of the mast chocks cause this? How does one
position the mast using the chocks? Equal amounts of space in the deck
opening? level mast (level to what?)

Also, does anyone know the suggested rake for a 30-2?


Thanks,
Chad
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Raymarine repair is about $150 fixed rate if it turns out to be the
masthead transducer.

We has ours repaired last year.

You can verify by measuring the voltage from the ground shield to the
yellow and green wires, there are a few documents online.

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 6:17 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
> to sail at night without it.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mast Sensor

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Yes, send it to Ray Marine and they'll fix it, flat rate of $125 or $150 I
think.

We did ours last summer and it came back in a few days with new internals.
(And some tool marks on the housing)

You start the repair process on their website and they'll issue a repair
number, ship it in and you're done.

On Thu, Apr 5, 2018, 12:55 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have ST60+ instruments.  The wind direction indicator reads
> erratically.  Sometimes it reads correctly, and sometimes it's off by a
> lot.  Is the sensor serviceable?
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I work with a few staff from the East Penn plant locally and they are
saying the Canadian Tire, Walmart, and Costco batteries are all the same
material from the same line in Pickering.

I am looking for 2 Deep 27's and expect to get one from CT on my funny
money, and the other where ever is cheapest.

On Wed, Apr 4, 2018, 12:06 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> I need to replace my house battery and my engine battery (atomic 4).  I
> also have a dedicated battery for my Windless (don’t ask).
>
>
>
> Any suggestions.  I currently have 31 AGMs.
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
>
> --
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>
> VCard 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
>
> An international member of Ally Law
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

We have the Kuuma, and the thermostat stopped working, it was out of
warranty and we were the second owners but they still shipped me a free
replacement part.

When you go to install it it is highly worth getting the bypass kit if it's
anything like ours and shoved down in a locker where it's hard to reach,
and impossible to remove the hoses. I found about 5 stainless steel screws
and a long Robertson bit with a screw still taped to it down in ours.
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Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Ubiquiti Bullet M2. You won't find a lot of 5.8Ghz WiFi spots and the 2.4
is more forgiving for line of site.
A 8 or 9 dBi antenna would be good for most applications, once you get into
10dBi they can get pretty big and heavy.

The Ubiquiti gear is really top notch for the price, it's leaps and bounds
better then anything else out there.




On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 8:52 AM, John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Has anyone installed an Omni WiFi antenna? If so;
>
> - which model (ubiquity or otherwise), - - where did you install the
> antenna (Mast, Arch, etc)
> - 2.4GHz or 5GHz
> - What DBi (and actual range / strength are you getting).
>
> We’ll be spending most of the summer on the boat (with kids) .
>
> Any other information is appreciated.
>
> Cassidy’s Free
> LF 38, #155
>
> /J
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Where to by a Mastervolt battery charger in the USA

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Hi,
I'm looking to replace my charger on my 30-2, it's humming and not charging
properly.

I've decided to look at the Mastervolt Chargemaster 12/35-3 for the 2x
100ah batteries, and similar sized start battery.

I'm not sure where the best place to order is, I have family on vacation in
Texas, so if anyone can suggest a mail order shop, I'll be able to ship it
to them and have them bring it back in March.

Thanks,
Chad
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Re: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Is there enough sailing content to justify the trip in?
We headed into the port credit boat show this year and while it was fairly
interesting to see some of the bigger boats, I was hoping for a little more
content.

Chad
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Re: Stus-List c 30 3 questions

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Two adults in the forward berth is a little tight. We tried it once, and
only once.  We're both tall (5'10 and 6'2) and the starboard side has less
length then the port side.
The aft cabin is fine for us, and  occasionally one or two dogs (which
makes it a bit cozy)

I think all 30-2's have soggy rudders, our surveyor was not worried about
it, and we drilled a hole 6" from the bottom of the rudder, and let it
drain all winter. I repeated this year and didn't see any water on initial
drilling, so it doesn't seem that the intrusion is too bad.

On Mon, Oct 23, 2017 at 10:56 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Maurice,
>>
>> You and I are in the (almost) same boat. :)
>>
>> I'm considering a 1987 C mkii and posted some recent questions (in
>> past 2 months) on it here and the listmates have been exceedingly helpful
>> as I think through the options.
>>
>> The one I'm looking at is in good shape except the rudder has
>> considerable water intrusion. I got a quote for 2-2.5k to recore and glass
>> the rudder locally or 5k for South Shore to make a new one in 4-5 weeks.
>>
>> Which one are you considering?
>>
>
> When I visited the boat with my 6 year old son, we laid together in the
> forward berth. I could see personally sleeping with a small child up front
> but I didn't think it would work with 2 adults. The aft berth is definitely
> more roomy and would fit 2 adults snugly I think and several members
> commented on this feature relative to comparable boats.
>
> FWIW, in talking with the surveyor and I mentioned that eventually I'd be
> interested in taking it south to the bahamas etc  (we can dream, right?),
> he said without hesitation that it would be capable of making that trip.
> The sail maker I spoke with wasn't as enthusiastic about it and
> characterized it more as a coastal cruiser/racer.
>
>
>> Best,
>>
>> Lisle
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:27:53 -0400
>> From: mp...@aol.com
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C 30 MKII
>> Message-ID: <15f49d8eb7d-c0f-f...@webjas-vaa086.srv.aolmail.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> New to the list and hoping to be a new owner for a C 30 MKii 1988. It
>> is a nicely appointed sailboat in great shape for its age and no visible,
>> walk away concerns.  I was hoping for comments from anyone with experience
>> and insights to offer, peeves, joys etc.  that would be super appreciated.
>>
>> 3 quick questions though:
>>
>> 1) knowing the boat, what would be a definite concern that you would look
>> at, stuff that has failed or gives grief?
>> 2) The front berth dimension is difficult to assess but it is sufficient
>> for a couple of average size, height?
>> 3) Would you do a jump to the Caribbean from the ICW on such a boat?
>>
>> Such a nice cruiser/racer though!
>>
>> Thank you for any information you can share!
>>
>> Maurice Poulin
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List First Haul Out/ Winter Layup

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I'd suggest removing all the heavy stuff before you haul out, otherwise
you're sending it down a rope.
Get a hot water tank bypass if you don't already have one.

Get some clear tubing in various sizes, I like to detach our water lines
from the tanks to use them with a hose, directly into the bottle, to keep
the antifreeze out of the tanks.

For the engine, I cut the water intake and will plumb in a T valve in the
spring, because removing the intake off the barbed connector is impossible.
Some people pour directly down the water strainer, but I have a hard enough
time getting the motor winterized as it is.

Buy about 6 jugs of plumbing antifreeze, you'll have lots left over, but
it's better to be excessive then have something break.

Don't forget your water intakes for toilet and sink (if you have a foot
pump). I found it easier to siphon the antifreeze down a hose, then stick
the hose up the intake hole while someone else pumped from inside, this
made it easier then taking the hoses off.

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 3:07 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
>
> here is a really good tutorial on the fresh water system.
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/water_system_winterizing
>
> Danny
>
> On 10/16/2017 2:42 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I'm hauling out for the first time on Wednesday. Any tips for someone who
> is new to the whole operation? Are there any last minute things I should do
> while the boat is in the water? Anything I should do as soon as the boat
> comes out that aren't covered on the winterizing checklist?
> (I'm using the list at http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/winterizing/
> winterizing.htm)
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
> --
> ---
> Thomas C. Delaney
> 917-337-5524 <(917)%20337-5524>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

You should have an industrial fastener supply company around you, I know
they can usually source all kinds of odd bolts.

Fastenal is one I know of that is a major chain, but they were 6x more
expensive per bolt for some 6mm shoulder bolts I needed for our
transmission.

On Oct 13, 2017 6:44 PM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> So I have a Series 41 Aqua Signal Bow light.  Dont ask me how but the bolt
> that keeps it all together deep sixed.
>
>
> No problem, I said as it went in, I can get another one from Aqua Signal.
>   Three emails.  No response.
>
>
> So I have been trying to find a 3 1/4" long # 4 bolt.   Seems like a holy
> Grail bolt to me.
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks, *once again*, in advance.
>
>
> 1981 40-2
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

If you're a little more DIY, you can buy 3x of these:
https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xlamp-xm-l2-leds

and one of these at 1000ma
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/buckblock-dc-led-driver

Hook them up, the result is a nice warm light, with ample brightness, and 1
amp power draw.
They are bright, and will add a lot more light then the previous florescent
lights.

Chad

On Wed, Oct 11, 2017 at 8:20 AM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced each fixture with a pair of these:
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/swivel-led/135-
> swivel-utility-led-light-bar-with-rocker-switch/1434/4518/#
> /attributes/10854
> They were not available in the warm color so I got the "natural" color
> which was fairly harsh.
>
> On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 9:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The marine beam option is what I went with.  The boat came with more than
>> a dozen tube fixtures (most of which were double tubes) and at ~$30 a
>> tube it wasn't cheap.  For the most part they are plug and play though the
>> directions do suggest bypassing the ballast/starter circuit.  I didn't
>> bypass and haven't had any trouble.  I will strongly suggest the warm white
>> varient and advise that the light still has a bit of the LED harshness, not
>> the inviting glow of an incandescent.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 8, 2017 10:36 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original
>> fluorescents with LEDs?
>>
>> Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the
>> existing fixture??
>>
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>>
>> Pete W.
>>
>>
>> Siren Song
>>
>> '91 C 30-2
>>
>> Deltaville, Va.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

> Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's
era made and it has a universal diesel.

Check the hull number, it will be on the transom, and in the aft cabin
beside the stove.
The last few digits show the hull number, it'll be between 140?-175.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has
> been painted with awlgrip.
>
> http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-
> 6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA
>
> From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but
> then can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for
> related posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a
> really bad idea to have this paint on the hull?
>
> Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's
> era made and it has a universal diesel.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Hi, we've had two adults in the berth, 5'10 and 6'2.. it was a tad tight
but not horrible.

The boat itself is big enough that couples do live aboard, we had a couple
on our last dock living aboard.

As a new sailer, learning on a 30-2, I'd say it's good to learn on, we had
no issues going from our training boat to our 30-2. There is enough space
to enjoy and the walk through transom is one of the features we wanted on
the boat.

After 1.5 seasons of learning I am happy with the boat. It's easy for 2
people to handle or 1 with autopilot.



On Sep 6, 2017 4:41 AM, "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Update: I looked at the C and although it appeared to be a basically
> solid boat, it feels a bit too small for a family of 4 and the headroom was
> a bit low. I'm hearing a lot of "3-foot-itis" stories from sellers I'm
> speaking with. So the search goes on. I've found an interesting 1987
> Pearson 27 that looks promising, here is the link:
>
> https://rochester.craigslist.org/bod/d/1987-pearson-27-2-
> sailboat/6281575540.html
>
> The one issue with the Pearson is that apparently it got struck by another
> boat on the port bow side that required some repair.
>
> Also, I'm going to see a 1987 C 30 later today that looks promising.
> Link here:
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-30-3079275/
> Rochester/NY/United-States#.Wa-z9MiGNPY
>
> Can someone with a C 30' tell me how large the v-birth actually is and
> share any experience with the idea of a beginner sailor staring with a boat
> like this?
>
> thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List 30-2 height

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Full keel, I know that the cradle is 6" from the bottom to the board the
keel sits on so I will try and measure in water.

I will just measure to the water line, add 5'8" and a few spare inches I
guess.


On Sep 2, 2017 11:00 AM, "Rick Taillieu via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Fin keel or wing keel?
>
> That will make a difference of 1¼ ft.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Still boatless
>
> Leamington, Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *robert
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September-02-17 10:50
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* robert
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 30-2 height
>
>
>
> Chad:
>
> The height of a boat from the bottom of the keel to the top coach roof and
> pulpits (bow and stern) will remain constant, however, the height of any
> cradle will be the variable.   And if you are talking 'inches' through the
> doors, that can be the determining factor.
>
> Put your boat on the cradle and measure from the top of the bow pulpit to
> the ground.if that measurement fits the door(s), you are probably in.
>
> Sorry I can't be more precise.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-02 11:18 AM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anyone know the height of a 30-2 on a cradle, or keel to highest point
> with the mast removed?
>
>
>
> We are considering storing indoors this year and need to see if it will
> fit through the doors.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
>
> Virus-free. www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List 30-2 height

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Anyone know the height of a 30-2 on a cradle, or keel to highest point with
the mast removed?

We are considering storing indoors this year and need to see if it will fit
through the doors.

Thanks,
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame
treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this
year with no issues.

Chad

On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks
> repair within the last 4 weeks.
>
>
>
> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace
> it.
>
>
>
> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
>
>
>
> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *Chris Hobson 
> *Subject: *Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
>
>
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO
> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into
> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to
> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you
> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the
> fittings fastened to the tank.
>
> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in
> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I
> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.
>
> Chris Hobson
> s/v "Going"
> 1980 C 30 MKI
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!