Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

When they get slimed up they think they are under water.  I wipe mine down 
every month or two

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 9:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

I've had issues with the water witch switches in my boat sticking in the on 
position. I even sent one back to the manufacturer who said they couldn't find 
a problem with it. I have a couple in my box of spares if anyone wants them,

I've had issues with the water witch switches in my boat sticking in the on 
position.  I even sent one back to the manufacturer who said they couldn't find 
a problem with it.  I have a couple in my box of spares if anyone wants them, 
cheap.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092

On Wed, May 1, 2024, 8:28 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I second the water witch

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2024 10:53 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

I've used a Water Witch for more than ten years without a problem. Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 2: 24 PM 
Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote: I much prefer the Ultra
I've used a Water Witch for more than ten years without a problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 2:24 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I much prefer the Ultra Safety Systems junior bilge pump switch. Pricey but 
worth it.

Dennis C.
Touche’ 35-1


FWIW, this problem was caused by a short within the Water Wizard (?) electronic 
float switch which was found to have an internal short, thus throwing the bilge 
pump breaker. It looks like the water tight seal for the wires of the Water 
Wizard gave it up and allowed water inside, shorting the circuit.

Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
 Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I second the water witch

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2024 10:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

I've used a Water Witch for more than ten years without a problem. Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 2: 24 PM 
Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote: I much prefer the Ultra

I've used a Water Witch for more than ten years without a problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 2:24 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I much prefer the Ultra Safety Systems junior bilge pump switch. Pricey but 
worth it.

Dennis C.
Touche’ 35-1



FWIW, this problem was caused by a short within the Water Wizard (?) electronic 
float switch which was found to have an internal short, thus throwing the bilge 
pump breaker. It looks like the water tight seal for the wires of the Water 
Wizard gave it up and allowed water inside, shorting the circuit.

Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

 Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I think a trip to your boat is warranted.  There is usually a pin on the top of 
the rudder post in the cockpit that stops the rudder post from dropping.  First 
thing is to determine if the entire rudder and post is dropping (good case) and 
determine why and fix that.  If post has not dropped the it may be rudder 
sliding down the post (bad case)

Suspect pin at top of rudder or something easily fixed

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2023 4:14 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List C 37 Rudder post assembly

Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my 
boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for 
repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the rudder 
has


Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my 
boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for 
repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the rudder 
has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; the hull 
 has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by moving the 
steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or suggests about 
what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to be done to make 
the rudder usable?


We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide 
more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: winter storage

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Re mast up.  A friend stored his C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in a 
winter storm.  He now has no mast.

With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat from 
blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in three 
areas.  The boat was on a cradle.

Food for thought

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List winter storage

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those who 
store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do you 
loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ 
‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April.  For those who 
store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do you 
loosen the shrouds for the winter?

Bob Mann
Mystic
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

And almost every coffee pot and definitely every Keurig use at least 1400 watts 
and up to 1600 for Keurig.  If anyone is interested at all in that I did find a 
single cup coffee maker that uses Keurig pods and consumes only 800 watts (I 
was dumb enough to buy a 1200 watt inverter/generator for the RV)

We have recently acquired a Bluetti AC200Max which has a 30 AMP outlet as well 
as 4 20amp outlets.  It provides 2100 watt hours (whatever those are).  We can 
plug the RV in to it and it powers everything.  It is even able to power the 
Air conditioner but only for short periods. During Hurricane Lee we plugged our 
house into it (6 circuit generator panel) and had lights, refrigerator, 
internet etc for the late evening and overnight

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS





From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 9:19 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Korbey 
Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system

A decent microwave will require a 2,000 watt inverter. Get Outlook for Android 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  Sent: Monday, 
October 16, 2023 2: 19: 04 PM To: Stus-List  Cc: joe@ 
dellabarba. com

A decent microwave will require a 2,000 watt inverter.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 2:19:04 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system

I appreciate the feedback.

We still enjoy TV at the dock and it's built in DVD player allows us to borrow 
movies from the library or rewatch old favorites like Hornblower, Wackiest Ship 
in the Army, Houseboat, Two For the Road, Wind, etc.

The attraction of the Jackery is portability and it plugs right into my shore 
power inlet so all the 120v outlets can be powered.  It's easily removed from 
the boat and could backup my house during hurricane season, or taken camping.

If you price out a 2000 watt invertor and batteries for it and 400 watt solar 
panels and a battery monitoring system, I would think it would get more 
expensive and more labor intensive, wiring all that together.  I would prefer a 
stand alone system that can be used when needed, and not something permanently 
mounted.  $1700 may seem like a lot of money, but the system would allow me to 
run a microwave or a hair dryer and provides another way to charge batteries 
when on the hook.  It would be removed from the boat for racing, removing all 
that weight.

I haven't bought one yet.   I'm still considering options.

Chuck S


On 10/16/2023 4:04 PM EDT Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
wrote:



We watch TV on the laptop, or if I somehow forget to bring it then the iPad 
from the chart table. I cannot recall using a physical DVD in years, but my 
laptop can play them if needed.

As far an actual TV goes, there are two issues:

  1.  Powering it. Inverters are not all that expensive.
  2.  Storing power – I would add batteries for the whole boat instead of just 
for a TV.







Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA







From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 3:41 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system



There are, out there, 12 V TVs. They might be more expensive than the normal 
(120 V) ones, but not $1000 more expensive. Also, do you need a TV or just a 
screen (monitor)? They are even easier to get in 12 V version.



Marek



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 9:07 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system



I have a 300 watt and 1200 inverter hard-wired to the boat systems as well as 
solar.

I keep thinking there must be a better way to watch TV then spend $1800. If it 
were me, I would probably spend the money on improving the boat systems overall 
vs. a dedicated TV battery.

Joe

Coquina



From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 1:45 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Jackery solar system



Looking for a way to power my TV and DVD and 120v sockets while at anchor.

I'm looking at getting a Jackery solar system for my boat.

I like the "2000 plus" cause it has a 30amp socket that accepts my shorepower 
cord and comes with two 200Watt folding solar panels.  $1800 but cheaper and 
less labor than installing a Lithium battery system with solar panels.



Anybody have experience with these devices?



Chuck Resolute 1989 C, Annapolis
Please show your appreciation for this list and the 

Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the primaries.  
There were no secondaries.  For cruising ease the primaries had been located 
where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations for the original 
primaries were faired and painted over.  The second set of manual Lewmar 43ST 
winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard winches.  THIS WAS WAY 
OVERKILL!

ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary.  Jib trimmers facing 
backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least.  So we moved the cabin top 
Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin top 
halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe)

This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST.  First of all an electric winch 
can be nasty.  An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using one.  We 
always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch.  Secondly these 
were AWFUL to maintain.  To service the winches the motor has to be dropped 
from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and lubricate the gears, 
pawls, etc ...  Due to this and due to the lack of accessibility from beneath 
to do this these winches were rarely serviced and never properly.  When running 
the spinnaker on these secondaries they were stiff and made spin handling more 
problematic than it should be (due to the lack of east servicing).

In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a set 
of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes.  On top of the ease 
of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors took away a LOT 
of unnecessary weight

Just a story I thought I would share

We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have 
BOGO days on winches during the year which could help reduce the wallet pain. 
Electric winches are more than a little $ more. Have heard / read good things 
about

Some other thoughts:

For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have BOGO days on winches 
during the year which could help reduce the wallet pain.

Electric winches are more than a little $ more.  Have heard / read good things 
about the "eWincher" as a viable alternative for people who do not want to make 
the investment in electric winches.

Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Jeff

We have a Frers 33.  The foretriangle dimensions are similar.  On F33 I=45.0, 
J=13.33 . On C I=44, J=14

We have Lewmar 43 ST for primaries and they are adequately sized

On a side note we purchased Lewmar 30ST for cabintop halyard winches in 2014.  
I think they have doubled in price since then so be prepared for sticker shock

Mike  Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 11:46 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

Hello all, I have attempted to search the archives for information and opinions 
on new primary winches for C, but was not able to locate a discussion. If 
there has been, my apologies. It has become apparent that the old, Lewmar, 
self-tailing,

Hello all,
I have attempted to search the archives for information and opinions on new 
primary winches for C, but was not able to locate a discussion.  If there 
has been, my apologies.  It has become apparent that the old, Lewmar, 
self-tailing, 2-spd winches that came on my boat are not adequate -- in a 
moderate wind with a 155 genoa it takes two crew cranking with all their 
strength to bring the sheet in far enough.  I and the crew are not getting 
younger, either -- average age about 65 to 70.  I don't know the details of 
gear ratios and power ratio for these old Lewmars, but am investigating so I 
have that as a reference.  If any of you C, or similar sized boat, owners 
have recommendations for replacement, 2-spd, self-tailing winches, I would be 
grateful.  I frequently sail solo and hope to be able to continue for another 
10 to 15 years (if I live to be 80!), so I need to factor that in the decision. 
 Also, any experiences or recommendations for the actual removal and 
installation would be great too!  Thanks.

Jeff Laman
1981 C Harmony
Ludington, MI
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Hull painting

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Our Awlgrip paint job on Persistence was replaced with Awlcraft 2000 this past 
year.  The difference is that Awlcraft can be buffed so repair is much simpler 
than with Awlgrip which cannot be buffed.

The Flag Blue will be stunning but will also show water spots to a degree that 
will drive you nuts

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2023 1:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull painting

Hi all, we are in the midst of trying to repair damages to our hull (1985 C 
37 CB) which stemmed from another boat parting its dock line in a storm and 
laying against our hull for 2+ hours, tearing the paint and gelcoat from the 
waterline

Hi all, we are in the midst of trying to repair  damages to our hull (1985 C 
37 CB) which stemmed from another boat parting its dock line in a storm and 
laying against our hull for 2+ hours, tearing the paint and gelcoat from the 
waterline to the rub rail. It's a long tale of woe, however, we are nearing the 
part of our project where painting the hull topsides is being discussed.  The 
boat was painted with Awlgrip about 10 years ago (prior to our ownership), and 
that finish has held up well. Also, because of the paint being 10 years old, it 
has been "strongly recommended" that the entire hull be repainted, rather than 
the damaged area only, with which we agree. I "assumed" that we would go back 
with the same Awlgrip product, however, the repair people have suggested that 
Imron would be a better product because scratches and dings can be repaired 
more easily.  They advised that the old Awlgrip would be sanded off and the a 
base coat and clear coating over the color coat.
Does anyone on the list have any experience with Imron paints (marine, of 
course); or Imron vs Awlgrip:

Another qualifier is that our area (Ohio River) is not a big boating community 
and there are few boating repair facilities here; (getting the boat to the 
repair facility is a whole other story all by itself!)

One last point, is, color; our hull is the C factory white, don;t know the 
name, but its an off-white almost cream color; we are thinking of going back 
with flag blue or navy blue; any thoughts here are welcome as well.

As always, thank you and let me know if you have any questions!

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

One other comment about CNG

Ours has two regulators and then the solenoid valve.

In 2021 we noted that leaving the tank valve opened for any amount of time 
allowed the tank to empty.  This was very concerning.  We replaced the first 
cut regulator (that steps down from 3000psi to about 100+), the second cut 
regulator (from 150 to whatever the stove expects) and also
the solenoid and all hoses.

My gas tech showed me a photo afterward of the insides of our original first 
cut regulator.  It was simply a pile of rust – the diaphrams, etc… has 
completely corroded away.  The gas would pas to the second cut regulator and 
onto the stove and the excess pressure went to the overboard discharge safety 
vent.

These regulators where installed in 1987 and exposed to a salt water 
environment their entire life.

Now that it is all new and safe and certified we of course have not used it in 
over a year ….

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: June 15, 2023 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov; Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

Joe, I feel your pain!: My insurance Co. (BoatUS-Geico) made me remove my CNG 
tank because it wasn't in a dedicated locker...we don't cook onboard much so it 
wasn't a big deal, but I wasn't happy about it; the regs allow a CNG tank under 
100 cubic feet;  you will be better off with propane;

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Thu, Jun 15, 2023 9:15 am
Subject: Stus-List Force 10 Stove
Does the standard American size Force 10 3-burner stove fit the C 35 MK I?
I would assume it does, but want to check.
I am thinking of going from CNG to propane, CNG is very hard to source now in 
most places.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Joe

What was your plan for a propane locker?  Boats with CNG systems tend not to 
have one

In our case CNG is easy to source but certifying the tanks is nearly impossible

Mike

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: June 15, 2023 10:15 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Force 10 Stove

Does the standard American size Force 10 3-burner stove fit the C 35 MK I?
I would assume it does, but want to check.
I am thinking of going from CNG to propane, CNG is very hard to source now in 
most places.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Finally we have launched for the season!

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Topsides paint job is now complete with boot and cove stripes and the boat back 
together and in the water

We are very pleased with the work done by East River Shipyard in Nova Scotia

The end result can be seen here www.hoytsailing.com

Aside from 2020 when marine services in our club were shut down into May this 
is the latest we have ever launched!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Persistence

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Richard

I thought I was replying directly to Bob – OOPS

Persistence is currently at East River Shipyard in Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia near 
Chester (www.eastrivershipyard.ca).  There was some deep gouging along the port 
bow extending back about 8 feet due to an incident during a Wednesday evening 
race in June 2022.  ERSY has repaired the damage and painted the topsides of 
the entire boat.  We are quite excited to have a new paint job that has no 
scratches or owies (until we start sailing and docking again).

Home Club is the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron in Halifax, NS 
(www.rnsys.com<http://www.rnsys.com>) where Bob and I are both members.  Most 
years Persistence is one of or the first boat launched – usually first week of 
April.  Persistence absence is noted for that reason

East River is just under 8 hours from Halifax by boat.  It is an easy trip that 
we have done many times (Chester Race Week, cruises, etc…)

Sorry for the confusion

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, Nova Scotia
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: April 21, 2023 11:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Persistence

Mike and Bob, for those of us who are uninformed...where is the boat now and 
where is the "club"?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255


-Original Message-----
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Fri, Apr 21, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Persistence
Hi Bob

The boot stripes and name are going on today and the boat is being launched 
next week.  Shortly after that we will bring it back

Mike

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Persistence

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

The boot stripes and name are going on today and the boat is being launched 
next week.  Shortly after that we will bring it back

Mike

-Original Message-
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
Sent: April 21, 2023 10:59 AM
To: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Persistence


Mike,

When do you plan to bring your boat back to the club?

Bob
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Awlgrip is a part of Azko Nobel that also has International paints.  I know 
that on the International paints site there was a tech support number that you 
could call to answers to this type of question.

Mik Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, ns
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: April 21, 2023 9:54 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft

Doubt I'm qualified to answer that.  Awlgrip could answer that.

I suspect you'd have to prime it with 545 first.  After sanding and prep, my 
painter applied 3 coats of high build primer to get the smoothness he wanted.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 11:07 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dennis, thanks; we are blessed in that the repair shop here does have a such a 
person; would you recommend that the hull should be repainted with Awlcraft 
over the existing Awlgrip?
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255




Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On Persistence website www.hoytsailing.com at the 
bottom of the page is a link to the rudder bearing replacement project that we 
undertook two years ago.  Different boat but much of it will be similar.

At least you will not have to deal with a steering  quadrant and a bunch of 
cables so access should be better.  We found that the lower bearing (was in 
fact a bushing) had screws holding it in place that we did not find until we 
cut out the old bearing.  Look closely for these screws while you are enjoying 
all the comforts of crawling around in your cockpit locker!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: John Read via CnC-List 
Sent: April 20, 2023 2:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

Check bearing where rudder post comes through cockpit floor just under tiller 
fitting. It wears over time allowing wobble. Had issue with my 82 34.  Fix was 
done on the hard.  Support rudder. Remove bearing. Machine shop inserted bronze 
bearing. Reinstall.  John Read

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 1:23 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a 1980 34 C that has developed a profound tiller wobble while under 
power .  Has anyone else had this experience?  What is the remedy.  I plan to 
haul out in June to inspect.

Get Outlook for Android
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis

Be sure to post the after pics as well.

Glad to hear that you found a good painter since those are difficult to find.  
Also glad to hear that you are pleased with Awlcraft!

Mike

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: April 19, 2023 11:12 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana

Mike,

It's Awlcraft 2000.  Chosen for exactly the reason you stated.

The paint got scuffed during Hurricane Ida in 2021.  I can see the primer so it 
can't be buffed out.  Here's a link to a picture of the scuffs:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FQt41lVzJan53DjasgmSXMALKRj7IwaJ/view?usp=sharing

Another reason why I took Touche' to Pensacola.  This is the same contractor 
that painted it in 2011 and then again in 2020 after damage due to Hurricane 
Sally.  He's very good.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Apr 19, 2023 at 8:37 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Denis

You referred to Topsides touchup.  What paint do you use that can be touched up?

Persistence had Awlgrip which eventually had many small scratches and other 
experiences.  It was repainted over the winter using Awl Craft since Awlcraft 
can be repaired.  We will see how that goes

Waiting on boot stripes , name and hailing port to be applied today and then 
swim ladder
BeforeBootStripe_1.jpg (4032×1816) 
(hoytsailing.com)<https://hoytsailing.com/BeforeBootStripe_1.jpg>
BeforeBootStripe_2.jpg (4032×1816) 
(hoytsailing.com)<https://hoytsailing.com/BeforeBootStripe_2.jpg>


Mike Hoyt


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Denis

You referred to Topsides touchup.  What paint do you use that can be touched up?

Persistence had Awlgrip which eventually had many small scratches and other 
experiences.  It was repainted over the winter using Awl Craft since Awlcraft 
can be repaired.  We will see how that goes

Waiting on boot stripes , name and hailing port to be applied today and then 
swim ladder
BeforeBootStripe_1.jpg (4032×1816) 
(hoytsailing.com)
BeforeBootStripe_2.jpg (4032×1816) 
(hoytsailing.com)


Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: April 18, 2023 9:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana

Long weekend.  Took Touche' from its home slip in Mandeville, LA to Pensacola 
to get bottom paint and topsides touchup.

Friday - Mandeville to Gulfport uneventful
Saturday - afternoon weather looked really nasty so we just moved a couple 
hours down the coast to Biloxi.  Squall line hit us about 4 pm.  Felt like 40+ 
knots.  Boat heeled about 5 degrees in slip.  Glad we weren't crossing Mobile 
Bay.  Second squall line hit us about 4 am.
Sunday - underway early to marina on ICW at Gulf Shores, AL.  66 nm in 9.5 
hours.
Monday - easy motor up "ditch" (ICW) to Pensacola Yacht Club.  Anchored in Big 
Lagoon was this boat, S/V Seeker.  It's a junk rigged boat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Le3_Ue7BxFRxDTKPVv85RLvcW6ZC7Ome/view?usp=sharing

More info can be found here:  https://www.svseeker.com/wp/sv-seeker-2/sailboat/

and here:

https://www.svseeker.com/wp/blog/  (Watch his video about halfway down the 
page.  What a contrast!  A junk rig and a foiling AC40)

While crossing Pensacola Bay the New York Yacht Club's AC40 America's Cup boat 
was practicing.  Wow!  The acceleration and speed is incredible.  They were 
gone down the bay in a flash.  I took some video but I can't seem to get it to 
work in Google Drive.

Hauled Touche' this morning and drove 4 hours home.

Now the question.  Why do I take Touche' 26 hours to get it painted?  Answer - 
IMHO, the painter is way better than any in my area.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Symmetrical Spinnaker

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew

There is a 33-3 beside us at our marina.  Their baby stay is on a track and 
they always have the baby stay at the mast side of the track and loose so that 
it is not in the way for racing.  Their pole is set up with a  mast end and a 
clew end so they always do dip pole gybes although our 33 (different make) we 
do end for end without any difficulty.

Contact me directly and I can put you in touch with Scott who has the 33-2 that 
he races every week

Regards

Mike Hoyt
Persistence (in the shop for a paint job!)
Halifax, NS

From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
Sent: January 16, 2023 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: and...@apwengineering.com
Subject: Stus-List C Symmetrical Spinnaker


Good day,

I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical spinnakers, and 
time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was hoping for some input from 
the group.

The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.

  1.  Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe the 
purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the sail, and also to 
prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up wind. I would think that this 
needs to be disengaged to make gybing possible. Any suggestions other than 
mounting a track on the cabin top?
  2.  Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip gybe. End 
to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged. Does anybody have any 
experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?
  3.  Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would assume 
deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or another option would 
be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy, with a forward lead, as a downhaul. 
Not sure if the angle would be sufficient, probably OK though.
  4.  Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would assume 
this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but wondering if 
anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think there would be but 
wanted to check.
  5.  Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a single 
attachment point head high(ish).

Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We will do 
some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some input, or some 
good online resources to help me make the decisions on what needs to be done. 
Also we only have a pair of primaries and an addition pair is not in the short 
term plan.

Thanks!

Andy




Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Winches in use for dip pole jibes.

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie

When we raced on a C 115 we always put the guys on primary and sheets on 
secondary.

Usually if you are rounding WW mark on stbd the guy is on stbd primary and 
sheet on port secondary leaving port primary for jib sheet

If W/L as you describe at the LW mark guy is on WW side primary and new jib 
sheet on LW side primary.

This only becomes a problem if you have to tack last minute at the mark and 
with the pole up that is usually a S Show anyway so who really cares where the 
lazy guy is at that point

That boat is long gone from here now and we don’t do dip pole on Persistence

Mike
Former crew on Koobalibra
C 115
Halifax

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: December 1, 2022 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Winches in use for dip pole jibes.

My tactician and I have a friendly disagreement on which winches to use when 
doing dip pole jibes with lazy sheets and 'guys' on my masthead rig C 36 
XL/kcb:

On Water Phantom, I have moved the initial primary winches (Lewmar ST 50s) 
forward on the cockpit coaming and added another secondary winch pair (Lewmar 
ST 44s) at the aft end of the cockpit coaming. Thus my secondaries are hardly 
secondary in strength and power ratios, etc.

All our races have port roundings and most are W-L. Thus we are on starboard 
tack at either the windward or leeward mark. I am no expert on dip-pole jibes 
but as I thought thru the sequence of events at the turning mark on starboard 
tack, it seemed intuitive to me to rig the kite with a starboard pole always 
(we never do jib sets!), using the aft secondary winches for both the sheet and 
the guy on the kite. This leaves the forward primary winches committed to the 
headsail as we make the turn at the mark.

After the turn, the primary winches can be cleared of the headsail sheets and 
the other set of kite lines (sheet and guy) can be rigged on these primary 
winches. When it comes time to jibe, the aft secondary kite lines become lazy 
and the trimmers use the primary winches--note the primary and secondary 
winches are only about 2 feet apart. For the next jibe, the trimmers move to 
the aft secondary winches and so on...

At the leeward mark, always on starboard for port roundings, the kite is back 
to being controlled by the aft secondaries (as at the windward mark) and the 
forward primaries can be loaded with the headsail sheets in anticipation of the 
beat to windward just as they were positioned at the windward mark. I like this 
symmetry (but then I am mostly a left-hander!) and think it involves less line 
switching, less time and might be faster than using a forward set of winches 
for both guys, etc.

OTOH, my tactician races mainly in a one design Beneteau 41S fleet in Chicago 
where the primary forward winches have both guys on them, the aft secondary 
winches are used for both sheets always. (I think this is because the 
secondaries might be pretty small on the 41S and they and/or the crew may not 
be able to handle the guys on the secondary aft winches).

Since I have no problem with using Lewmar 44s as primary winches, I have the 
option to do the winches ala the Chicago way or the Water Phantom way. Before I 
commit to having the crew learn how to do these winch swaps as we go from jibe 
to jibe, I want to choose the best way to handle the winches and stick with it 
through the season.

What do the list racers think of these alternatives?

Thanks in advance,


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC




Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
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Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck

On Persistence we simply boil the water and use a French press for coffee.  The 
Vigil Shorepower brand inverter that was listed as tested and working on our 
pre--purchase survey in 2014 never has worked for us.  I have a small sine-wave 
inverter mounted under the chart table that we use for the odd 110v needs 
(charging and computers).

We recently purchased a WolfPup 16PF travel trailer for something of a change.  
It has no inverter and I am considering installing one.  Also have a 1200w 
inverter generator (also too small for Keurig).  The inverter would mainly be 
just to run a tv and such.  Am thinking of replacing the “converter” with a 
Converter/inverter (I know Renogy makes a bunch of those as does Xantrex).  I 
am constantly amazed at the difference in quality between a boat and a trailer. 
 However they are quite similar in many ways

Mike



From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
Sent: November 18, 2022 1:44 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

Mike,
I haven’t found it to be a big issue, although I’m running the Keurig either at 
anchor or on a mooring and not while I’m running a whole lot of other devices 
such as radar/chartplotter.  12V Adler Barbour refrigerator adds somewhat to 
the battery draw. The toaster oven is a different story as it is rated at 
1300w.  That gets used very sparingly.  Two series 31 batteries (100amps each) 
hooked up to 2 100W solar panels helps refresh the system rather quickly.
I also tend to turn off various circuits when not in use (gray and fresh water 
pump, radar, instruments, select lighting) that seems to help keep battery 
charge levels manageable.
Chuck Gilchrest
83’ Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2022 12:14 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

Hi Chuck

Will a 2000w inverter run a coffee machine such as Keurig which draws 600w?  
How is this on the batteries?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: November 18, 2022 12:07 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net<mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net>
Subject: Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

Pete,
I have a newer Xantrex 2000W inverter/charger that I use on my Landfall 35.  I 
have 2 type 31 lead acid house batteries.  Because I’m on a mooring and run 12v 
refrigeration, I’m also using 2 100w solar panels mounted on the bimini.
But with regards to the Xantrex inverter/charger, when we cruise, my wife likes 
to use her single cup Keurig coffee maker and we also have an older Black and 
Decker toaster oven on board.  We don’t run both at the same time, but we’ve 
never seen huge draw from the batteries afterwards.
Overall, I’m pretty happy with it.  We have used the charger function when the 
boat is on the hard for the winter and can plug into “shore power” using 110V 
adapter on the shore power cable..
Chuck Gilchrest
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2022 10:38 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net<mailto:pete.shelqu...@comcast.net>
Subject: Stus-List charger/inverter

I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering charger/inverter 
with lithium batt capabilities.

There are lots of manufacturers out there.  Can anyone provide reliable 
resources to review or recommendations?

Thanks,

Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck

Will a 2000w inverter run a coffee machine such as Keurig which draws 600w?  
How is this on the batteries?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
Sent: November 18, 2022 12:07 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

Pete,
I have a newer Xantrex 2000W inverter/charger that I use on my Landfall 35.  I 
have 2 type 31 lead acid house batteries.  Because I’m on a mooring and run 12v 
refrigeration, I’m also using 2 100w solar panels mounted on the bimini.
But with regards to the Xantrex inverter/charger, when we cruise, my wife likes 
to use her single cup Keurig coffee maker and we also have an older Black and 
Decker toaster oven on board.  We don’t run both at the same time, but we’ve 
never seen huge draw from the batteries afterwards.
Overall, I’m pretty happy with it.  We have used the charger function when the 
boat is on the hard for the winter and can plug into “shore power” using 110V 
adapter on the shore power cable..
Chuck Gilchrest
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
From: pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2022 10:38 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List charger/inverter

I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering charger/inverter 
with lithium batt capabilities.

There are lots of manufacturers out there.  Can anyone provide reliable 
resources to review or recommendations?

Thanks,

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I believe that large mainsails were penalized under IOR at that time so huge 
foretriangles became popular and also very large overlapping genoas.

If I am not mistaken IMS and other rules that followed IOR were more based on 
performance than design and allowed larger main sails to come back and resulted 
in smaller more easily managed headsails

My conspiracy theory is that the deck sweeping 170% genoas were heavily 
influenced by insurance companies and boat yards that wanted more collisions 
and more work! 

Mike
Persistence
HAlifax

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
Sent: November 3, 2022 3:04 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

That 170 seemed to be popular sport back in the day.  We had one for our 30-1 
when I bought it and I noted that two other 30s at the lake had them also.
PHRF killed that sail; the additional penalty was deemed too much.  Crew didn't 
mind tossing them away.  By the time we finally got it trimmed in, it was time 
to tack again.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Thursday, November 3, 2022, 11:22:32 AM CDT, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Jeff



That would likely sheet to the dinghy towed behind your 34



There was a story behind the use of 170 genoas back in the day but I forget 
what it was



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jeff

That would likely sheet to the dinghy towed behind your 34

There was a story behind the use of 170 genoas back in the day but I forget 
what it was

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: November 3, 2022 12:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe ; Jeffrey A. Laman 

Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%

Joe,
I am interested. What are the dimensions? I have an 81 C with Harken furler.
Jeff Laman

Get Outlook for Android

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 8:52:21 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK I 170%


Does anyone still use 170% genoas?

I have two that are old but with very little use. I'll send them for shipping 
if anyone needs one or both. They are cut as deck-sweepers, if you have furling 
gear it needs to be the kind that comes off.



Joe

Coquina

Stus-List Re: Navionics

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck

I had Navionics on my Windows Surface tablet running windows 8.1 RT.  I had all 
the charts and price was good.  Loved it

When I upgraded to a Windows 10 tablet Navionics was available but the charts 
were not. Even if I owned them.  That was not running a tablet OS but rather 
actual Windows 10 that would be on a computer.

Just upgraded tablet to Samsung Galaxy A8 (very affordable).  Navionics on my 
Samsung S21 available for free on this tablet and includes all charts.  Is great

Not sure Mac OS on their laptops works for the apple version or if it is 
restricted like the Windows 10 version was.  Also not sure if Garmin has opened 
up Navionics (Boating HD actually) on PCs running Windows to be able to get the 
charts since I last tried.

Any way.  Small warning to those expecting to use this great app on a laptop 
that it may not work

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: October 27, 2022 2:47 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Navionics

I've always paid for Garmin updates and enjoyed their products.  But I saw 
Navionics on a friend's tablet and thought I'd try that.

I paid $21 for an annual subscription to Navionics for the entire US and 
Canada. and the same subscription applies to three devices; my PC, my cell 
phone and a future tablet.  I think it's well worth the price as I can plan 
routes on my laptop, and now have a plotter on my cell phone, so it's always 
with me, no matter what boat I'm on.

I know I'm late to the party on this, so any advice on using it is appreciated.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Magothy River, Md

Stus-List Re: 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Dave

If I remember correctly you are located in Nova Scotia.  Bailey’s Plastics in 
East Lawrencetown, NS (the Lawrencetown past Cole Harbour not the one in the 
Valley) made the companionway slider and hatch boards for Persistence.  They 
did this for four or five boats this season and also can manufacture 
replacement windows.  They do good work at a reasonable cost

Hope this helps

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: October 23, 2022 2:03 PM
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle


Good day all.
I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve 
the companionway hatch.  The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and 
I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had 
loosened.
I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below.

  *   There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good 
shape.
  *   I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage 
holes other than into the cockpit.
  *   It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle 
and coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed.  Perhaps it should not be 
sealed to the cabin top at all?
  *   Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, 
epoxy-fill, and redrill the mounting holes.
  *   The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape.
  *   The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and 
is not easy to remove for maintenance.

Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are 
worth making?

Thanks, Dave
33-2 Windstar
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi David

First I find it unusual to hear of a J27 with a furling genoa.  We had a J27 
that came that way and it was the only one I knew of.  Our furling genoa was 
awful to use when racing anyway so we would  ignore the furler and tack our 
racing sails to the deck below the drum.  Eventually sold the luff foil, 
furling system and the furling genoa and replaced with a tuff luff

J27 upwind if too windy for 150 should use a blade as it is much faster.  
Downwind most 27s fly a spinnaker anyway.

On our 33 we will sometimes be overpowered upwind flying our non furling 140 or 
155 genoas for the added boost downwind if racing non spin.  If it is too windy 
for our 140 we drop to our 103%% head sail.

Your genoa would have to be designed and built to sail partially furled for it 
to have any sort of performance up wind.  I know some have foam in the luff 
area for this.  Regardless I would think the loss of upwind performance would 
be a pretty nasty price to pay for more horsepower down wind …

Those are my thoughts

Regards

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: September 12, 2022 11:12 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing

I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and 
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  He 
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does not 
have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the value/feasibility of 
this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It certainly would be easier 
than putting on my smaller sail when winds are questionable.  I worry about not 
only sail shape, but when partially furled, the furler and genoa sheet are 
fighting each other, which might not be a good thing for the furler.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D8C69A.4F2D4620]

Stus-List Re: Bimini or dodger extender suggestions

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Dean

Persistence is also in Halifax and has a dodger and a bimini.  There is a 
separate piece of sunbrella that zips between the two for full coverage on 
rainy days.  The bimini deployed by itself is great shade

The dodger and bimini are currently not on the boat but I can send some 
pictures if you would like

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
Sent: September 1, 2022 10:00 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Bimini or dodger extender suggestions

Anyone have a nice bimini or dodger extension set up for a C 34 (1980 
vintage) or similar boat, that they like, and would share pictures?

I have a nice dodger, but thinking of adding something extra for those very 
sunny days… not looking to break the bank, just wondering what options people 
like. Bonus points for something that can work with mainsail up and underway!

Dean Mc
BarraWind
C 34
Halifax, NS
_

Stus-List Its a Freakin' Lancer !!!!

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Does nobody read emails?

This is a Lancer 30 mark 1 or 2.  It is not a C  At some point the Lancer 30 
was built from older C molds but not sure if the early versions were or not

It is not a C 30  

LANCER 30 approx 1974 – 1976

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Alexander Netherton via CnC-List 
Sent: August 25, 2022 5:12 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Alexander Netherton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

Don't think so
1-keel and rudder do not have fin design, and bow line on mt cnc30 mk 1 is more 
curved.
2 position of hand rails is more centred than on mlne--which are angled and on 
edge of deck.  No dorad, etc...
3 cockpit configuration missing traveller and seems to have extra lockers.  Too 
narrow
Galley configuration is different, as is table configuration,
Could not see chain plates in standard location.
Defiantly a  boat of the same generations, but not a C 30 MK 1.
Alex N
Dulicibella

Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The interior looks like the 1976 Lancer 30 as well.  Hard to find images though

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: August 24, 2022 11:02 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

That looks quite a bit like a C designed Lancer 30.  The exterior, windows, 
keel, rudder etc..  The interior looks quite different than the 30-3 and 30-4 
so I am wondering if it was an earlier model or a kit boat like the Viking 33 
offered where the interior was custom …

From: Barry McKee via CnC-List 
Sent: August 24, 2022 10:51 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: virb...@cogeco.ca
Subject: Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

Don’t think this is a C 30.  Interior is all wrong.

Barry McKee
C 29 “Discovery II”

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: 24-Aug-22 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Is this a C?


https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-cc-30-sloop-sailboat/7522712710.html

The boat looks a bit different than I thought the 30s looked like???


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

That looks quite a bit like a C designed Lancer 30.  The exterior, windows, 
keel, rudder etc..  The interior looks quite different than the 30-3 and 30-4 
so I am wondering if it was an earlier model or a kit boat like the Viking 33 
offered where the interior was custom …

From: Barry McKee via CnC-List 
Sent: August 24, 2022 10:51 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: virb...@cogeco.ca
Subject: Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

Don’t think this is a C 30.  Interior is all wrong.

Barry McKee
C 29 “Discovery II”

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: 24-Aug-22 9:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Is this a C?


https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-cc-30-sloop-sailboat/7522712710.html

The boat looks a bit different than I thought the 30s looked like???


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Runners/check-stays

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie

Different boat but also has check stays and hydraulic backstay.  Frers 33. 
Somewhat bendy mast (with the hydraulic backstay).

Check stays should be ideally close to mid line in boat at the transom but that 
is not very possible because helms  person would be hindered by these.  Those 
boats with a tiller often mount on the track that runs across the transom. On 
persistence are mounted to pad eyes at the forward end of pushpit port and 
stbd,  Rod Stright with the C 99 Equinox also on this list also had a Frers 
33 so may chime in.

We were told when we bought the boat that the checks were to prevent mast 
pumping in a chop.  We almost never see this.  However the boat is masthead rig 
and backstay is primarily used to tension forestay and luff of headsail.  This 
is often detrimental to mainsail shape resulting in large wrinkle extending 
down the middle of the main.  The check stays pull the mast aft from a point 
just below the upper spreader.  This eliminates (or reduces) the wrinkle in the 
main caused by backstay tension.

Of course we rarely use the check stays as it adds an extra layer of 
complication to running the boat but when we have in the past it made for a 
better mainsail shape in certain conditions.  Normally we just run them down 
the shrouds and tie them off at shroud base for simplicity.

We do not have runners.

Hope this helps

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: August 18, 2022 1:43 PM
To: cc-3...@googlegroups.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Runners/check-stays

Hello all;

My C 36 XL/kcb was delivered with the runners/check-stays run to the aft rail 
just about the location of the original headsail winches. They are rigged with 
a 4:1 purchase and are released/tightened depending on what tack we are on. 
Downwind they are unshackled and pulled forward.

I removed the baby stay and its purchase/track to save wear and tear on the 
headsail during tacks so my boat is slightly modified from its factory 
settings. I do have and use a hydraulic backstay adjuster and always race with 
a roller furling headsail.

I just had all the standing rigging replaced after 27 years of mostly PHRF 
racing in the lighter airs of the Pamlico Sound/Neuse River in NC. With a PHRF 
rating of 120 I am usually competitive with the fleet against similar sized 
boats sailed reasonably well--which I manage to do most of the time.

My question for this group, especially those with runners/check-stays rigged, 
is two fold:

1. Given their aft location on the quarters, the angle they make with the mast 
is mostly aft--I'd guess about 75 degrees from perpendicular to the mast, or 
maybe 165 degrees off the bow. At that angle and purchase, they certainly have 
a minor effect on pulling the mast to weather upwind, which I understand is 
their main purpose (although they may also help prevent mast pumping in serious 
chop). Question #1 is do I really need them as currently set-up?

2. If the answer to question #1 is yes, my next question #2 is should I move 
them forward so they have a better angle keeping the mast to windward and 
perhaps increase their purchase? I know from these groups that some run their 
runners/check-stays to winches to put some serious tension on them at the 
expense of more trimming, etc.

Before I do a sailing test with and without them, thoughts from the lists are 
welcome.

BTW, my mast is a relatively bendy Off-Shore spar--hardly a telephone pole--so 
it can be bent with the hydraulic backstay adjuster.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The sock is likely slower for dousing as well.  Not sure how fast furling a 
spinnaker is.  The one I once used was a continuous line furling system in 
Newport Bermuda race in 2012 on a 43 ft boat (it was new that year).  It was a 
very slow process to furl that spinnaker and we had problems with the furling 
system as well.  I think it would be good for short handed sailing

We had a sock on Persistence.  It came with the asym that the PO purchased and 
was delivered just a few weeks before we bought the boat (my favourite way to 
get sails).  I found the sock to be a PITA.  However when we went on a cruise 
our friend who was sailing with us loved it.  I think we have flown the asym 
less than a dozen times over the 9 seasons we have had the boat.  It is a 
cruising cut though so not much use when racing as we can carry the sym just as 
far forward and is easier to fly in almost all wind directions.

I am interested to hear how you make out with the new setup.  If I read your 
posts correctly you are sailing short legs so a furling spin would take away 
the need for packing the spin.  That will be interesting.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: July 12, 2022 7:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

I have a regular crew that has been together for seven years.  When we fly the 
symmetrical I’m on foredeck, and probably will be with the asym too (working 
its furling line).  I’m confident our sail changes will be faster with furling 
genoa and furling asym than with the previous  genoa luff rope in a head foil, 
and symmetrical in a sock with big heavy spin pole.

Cheers,
Randy


On Jul 12, 2022, at 2:13 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Do you race your 30 single handed or with crew. If with good crew i think your 
symetrical kite hoists and take downs would be close to seemless sail 
transtions and very fast. I hope changing gear makes the difference you are 
looking for but you may still need help from good crew and you may still need 
to make some good tactical decisions that turn out lucky decisions. Gear 
changes will affect ratings.  Ratings assume equal crew. Your crew might be 
more important to success.

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 11:25 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.  He’s the 
one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit, asym, and 
top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now the minimum 
ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his genoa and unfurl his 
asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes to set the spin pole, 
hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and drop the genoa.  There was 
no way I could compete.

Cheers,
Randy



On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor!

I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
asymmetrical spinnaker.

For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a new 
Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 asymmetrical 
spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the latter two 
birthday presents on Tuesday.

This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s races.

I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
additional tips you old salts might offer.

1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise.  
My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed a 
little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for a 
symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am I 
wrong?

2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.

3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
trimmer can see the whole sail.

4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s tensioned 
so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, but it can be 
eased - how much, and under what conditions?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.

Fun 

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Randy

Check with your local PHRF authority (assume you already have).  In many areas 
adding a bowsprit to a boat to tack your asym spin affects rating.  If doing 
this and also carrying a symmetric spin and pole can be a penalty adjustment 
(faster rating).  If only the asym and no spin may actually be in your favour

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: StrightR--- via CnC-List 
Sent: July 11, 2022 6:02 AM
To: 'Randy Stafford via CnC-List' 
Cc: cnc-l...@cnc-list.co; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim

Hi Randy comments below:

1. Leading the tack line - I'm repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise.  
My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I've repurposed a 
little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for a 
symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am I 
wrong?

Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but 
will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.  We 
keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping 
hazard

2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.

If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely 
need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same 
place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers 
depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to 
trim the sail and adjust the leech.

3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
trimmer can see the whole sail.

High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.

4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it's tensioned 
so that the aysm's tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, but it can be 
eased - how much, and under what conditions?

You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will 
depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind  if 
the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if it 
rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet downwind. 
Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really light.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.

Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
because of the etymology of my boat's name, and because of her color scheme 
(red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Rod Stright
C 99 Halifax

Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Jeff and Jeff

That is also how Persistence is wired except one Xantrex charger for start and 
two house.  This RV has electric fridge which seems to consume a bit of power 
so the desire was to have the fully charged batteries last longer before 
requiring recharge

Mike

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: July 4, 2022 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery

This is how my C is set up and how it came when I bought it.  I added 
charger, with 2 bank capacity.  One side of the charger gets the two house, and 
the other side of the charger goes to start.  Works fine.  But, as noted, 
charging the house takes a longer.  I have debated whether to do away with the 
2nd house battery since the boat does not consume that much power -- 
instruments and auto pilot.  All lights are LED now.  Stereo use is at dock 
only.

Jeff Laman
81 C "Harmony"
Ludington, MI

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2022 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery

Assuming you simply want to double your storage capacity, put the batteries 
side by side, wire positive to positive and
negative to negative.  You now have 12 volts with 2ce the ampacity.  Others may 
offer some advice on charging...but
I think you should be reasonably ok, except it will take a bunch longer to 
charge as you have 2ce the capacity that you
need to fill.
On 2022-07-04 10:41, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Actually is for an RV but I can think of no better place to get answer to this 
type of question than this list.



Came with one group 27 deep cycle battery.  Wish to add a second and have been 
told that nothing needs to change re the charging systems, etc ...  What is 
involved in adding a second group 27 battery?



Thanks



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



--

Cheers,

  Jeff Nelson

  Muir Caileag

  C 30 - 549

  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Adding a second house battery

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Actually is for an RV but I can think of no better place to get answer to this 
type of question than this list.

Came with one group 27 deep cycle battery.  Wish to add a second and have been 
told that nothing needs to change re the charging systems, etc …  What is 
involved in adding a second group 27 battery?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

There is a governor on the 2 and 3GM motors that can reduce or shut off fuel 
flow.  This happened on Persistence in 2015.  If it is not a fuel problem 
remember that there are three controls that affect fuel flow: Throttle, Fule 
shutoff knob, governor.  Is it possible that one of these three is limited in 
some way?

You can likely tell if it the engine stop knob by pushing the lever that 
attaches to on the side of the engine, same for a throttle cable problem.  I 
cant recall off the top of my head if you can tell if the governor lever is 
stuck without tearing stuff apart

Mike

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: June 28, 2022 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

I guess there is one other low cost possibility...your throttle cable is 
somehow jamming now permitting
it to open to full throttle.  Fairly low chance that is it, but worth checking 
before you start ripping expensive
bits a part.  You can disconnect the throttle cable and push/pull the throttle 
by hand to see if it changes
anything.
On 2022-06-28 11:13, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
So that pretty much narrows it down to Fuel or exhaust.  Have you checked your 
mixing elbow to ensure it
is clear?  Restriction would certainly keep the revs from going up.  After that 
it likely gets expensive in
either fuel supply (high pressure pump/low pressure pump) or injector issues.



--

Cheers,

  Jeff Nelson

  Muir Caileag

  C 30 - 549

  Armdale Y.C.

On 2022-06-28 11:10, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
Prop is cleanshouldn't matter if the prop is dirty, the engine won't rev 
above 2,100 RPM's when in neutral.
On 2022-06-27 12:32 p.m., Korbey Hunt wrote:
Is the prop clean?

Get Outlook for Android

]

Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
:

Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out heading 
into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the engine 
wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be that 
complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble 
shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told 
him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not getting 
enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had the bottom of it 
replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks one or both of 
the filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't 
think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.  the 
engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.








--

Cheers,

  Jeff Nelson

  Muir Caileag

  C 30 - 549

  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Brian

Had a conversation with a friend who has a Sabre 34 the other day about this.  
His comments were that replacement cost of a boat is the cost of a sistership 
in the same condition plus the transport fees to get it here.  Sure you can 
find one for a low price but then you have to spend the money to get  it back 
to the shape of the one you now have.  In fairness to you the replacement boat 
(in case of total loss) should already be in that condition.

For me that would mean a Frers 33 with newish sails, instruments, winches and 
gear upgraded in the past few years, interior in good condition, etc etc … plus 
the trucking costs to get it from likely Eartern US seaboard to Canada.

Regardless of all that get a survey for insurance purposes and it should have a 
fair valuation for the boat

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com



From: Brian Davis via CnC-List 
Sent: June 27, 2022 7:33 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

Thank you Dennis!

On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 8:13 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'm going through this right now.  I got a letter from my insurance company 
questioning my "agreed value".  Years ago I got a condition and value survey 
for Touche' (1971 35-1) for $40K.  That's what I had it insured for.

The letter said the "most recent used boat price guide lists the current market 
value between $15,300 and $17,300".  I don't disagree that many sisterboats 
without upgrades and refurbishments on Yachtworld are priced in that range.  As 
always, value depends on market and condition.

Okay, $40K is a bit high.  I asked if my policy was truly an "agreed value" 
policy.  They said no.  One can insure a boat for way more than it's worth but 
I doubt the insurance provider would happily write a check for that amount.

Now what?  If the boat is physically damaged but largely intact, they will pay 
to fix it or total it based on the repair vendor's estimate.  The adjuster can 
look at the boat and hopefully see that it is in much better condition than the 
ones currently on the market.  I will show the adjuster the differences and all 
the upgrades and hope that the adjuster agrees with me.

Now what happens if the boat burns and is completely destroyed with nothing 
remaining for the adjuster to look at?  I plan on taking lots of pictures and 
arguing with the adjuster.

Bottom line, I reduced the coverage to $30K.  On a positive note, both my 
premium and my deductible dropped.  The deductible is a percent of the covered 
value.  I see this as a positive.  Most likely, any claim will be to repair 
damages much less than the covered value.  The lower deductible works in my 
favor.

The real value of insurance is in the liability coverage.  That's where the 
potential for big dollar claims lies.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
Sent: June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

I do know that import duties are only paid once

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Why would no duties be due?
I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would they 
not have to pay an import tax or something?

Dan Cormier
C Breakaweigh
Halifax, NS / Florida

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.

Does anyone know this information or can any other C owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?


On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder's plaque, which I suspect you haven't found.

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and "coming to Canada" in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

You should put a connector there anyway so that you can remove the mast in the 
future.  Majority of boats at our club take down mast every year and are set up 
this way.  Basically same connector as at radio and antenna ends of the cable 
with a  barrel connector

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: May 28, 2022 7:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

About 8" from where it enters the bottom of the mast in the bilge (dry). Except 
for working on my old knees and removing part of the sole, it is reachable. I 
have not found the other end that goes to the radio but I suspect it is hidden 
under the sole that I must remove to see/find it.

Charlie

-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

Where is the cut?

On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the
> mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or
> 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that
> claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>
> Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints
> on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense
> of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I
> figured it was worth that much to give it a try.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC

>
>
>

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Port Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: needing to replace small CNG tank

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I believe the threads on CNG are reverse to that of Scuba tanks.  That is both 
for the connection of the regulator to the tank and the tank valves to the tank

Is anyone manufacturing these smaller CNG tanks at this time?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: May 20, 2022 11:26 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List needing to replace small CNG tank

I think those valves would fit on a SCUBA tank, you might take it to a SCUBA 
shop and see.
What inspection did it fail, visual or hydro?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: DANIEL WATTS via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2022 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DANIEL WATTS 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List needing to replace small CNG tank

All, I recently removed my CNG tank from my C 33 to have it inspected and 
hopefully re-filled. Much to my dismay, it did not pass inspection (not a 
surprise as it is most likely 46 yrs. old) so I am now looking for a 
replacement. My tank is small measuring 7" in diameter by 29" long or 60 cu. ft.
Any ideas on possible sources would be most appreciated, I am not looking to 
convert to propane.
Thank you,
Dan Watts
C 33 Mk1 - Counterpoint
Southport, Maine.

Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Speaking of stoves, gas and regulators ….

Persistence uses CNG rather than propane

I just received my stove/oven, fuel canister and hose/regulators/solenoid back 
from my gas guy.  Replaced all lines, the solenoid and both regulators.  The 
first cut regulator that takes gas from 3500psi to 90 psi was in fact re-built 
using the casing from my regulator and the guts from a new one of the same 
model.  The new one did not have the overboard discharge port but was otherwise 
the same model.  Mike showed me pictures of the inside of the old first cut 
regulator – it was metal and essentially a crumbling pile of rust which is why 
it failed. The second regulator is brand new and takes from 90psi to something 
like 4[si for the stove.  Solenoid I also replaced while at it.  Total cost 
approx. $800 CAD

The corrosion inside the 34 year old regulator was very bad and points out that 
old gas systems should be replaced due to age and safety concerns

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: March 31, 2022 9:00 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid

What Dave said is essentially correct.

1.  Make sure the tank has gas in it.  Shake it, and if you feel liquid 
sloshing around, you have fuel.

2.  Check the solenoid.  Have someone flip the switch inside while you're at 
the solenoid.  It should make a distinct clip and get warm.

3.  Check the stove and when trying to light it, you should hear the distinct 
should of air/gas coming out of the burner(s).  Note that depending on the 
street, you may have to hold the knob in or do something else to override the 
safety to start the burner.  Once it is started, there should be a thermocouple 
that heats up to allow the flame to keep burning.  If you hear gas/air, you may 
have to keep at trying to start the unit for a minute or two to purge the air 
out of the system.  If you're getting the hissing sound, it's probably not the 
regulator.

4.  If the solenoid clicks, but you're not getting gas, its probably the 
regulator.  They're easy to get online or at a RV store.

5.  Once you have it working, use the pressure gauge to check for system leaks. 
 Leave the solenoid on and pressurize the system.  Turn off the tank valve.  
The system should stay at the same pressure for 5 to 10 minutes.  If not, you 
have a leak somewhere you need to find.

Good luck!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Stu

Try removing the Cutting Board footer at the end of each email.  I read 
somewhere that this may be related to the problem

It seems to be an Outlook problem / Exchange problem



-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List  
Sent: March 7, 2022 2:52 PM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List List The attachments are driving me nuts


Folks I have tried and tried to find the problem.  The IT group that maintains 
our list program assure me it is not the problems. The program only relays what 
is sent to it and makes no changes.

I tried contacting several email servers whose customers were experiencing 
problems, and I might as well talk to the wind.

The problems are very sporadic and are not consistent by any means. I have 
several email accounts all with different providers and do not any problems.  
So I cannot relate to the problems.

I am still using Windows Live Mail from Windows Essentials (no longer
available) and Thunderbird Mail.  Both programs access all of my email accounts 
and neither has shown any problems.

I don't know what to suggest at this time except for you to experiment and try 
a different email app on your smartphone, laptop or desktop computers.

I keep trying to find the problem and the solution but right now things do not 
look good.

Stu

Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Email problem was RE: Re: found on eBay - C logo'd mainsail cover

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Interestingly the email below from Joel came to my Outlook email (exchange 
server) as an attachment and to my Gmail account as a message without the issue.

I am sending this as Text rather than html so should not have the issue.

Wonder why Outlook treats html that way from only this email list?

Mike Hoyt
Halifax NS


From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List  
Sent: February 15, 2022 4:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Re: found on eBay - C logo'd mainsail cover

Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: email test

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Test #2



-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: February 14, 2022 10:50 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List email test





Sorry about the extra traffic.  Trying subscribing using my gmail account to 
see if the html problem persists there.



Mike



-Original Message-

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Sent: February 13, 2022 11:54 AM

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>

Subject: Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed





When I rebuilt my A foredeck hatches (two of them now) I bought the seal 
material from a local glass shop that installs commercial plate glass windows 
like you see in stores and office buildings. I forget what the tubular rubber 
seal is actually called. But if you take a couple of inches of what you have 
into the glass shop, they can cut you a length of the great big roll they 
probably have . I can't recall if I used 3/8" diameter or 1/2". The adhesive I 
used was 3M trim adhesive that would be used to install a rubrail on a car.



The idea of going to McMaster Carr is also a good idea, and a lot less 
expensive that buying from A or another boat supplier. The only downside is 
what you do with the 90+ feet of rubber you will have left over after you 
rebuild the hatch.



Rick Brass

Imzadi C 38 mk1

la Belle Aurore C 25

Washington, NC





-Original Message-

From: Stus-List

Sent: Feb 12, 2022 1:51 PM

To: Stus-List

Cc: Bob Mann

Subject: Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed





The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement? Nothing I've seen at hardware stores 
even comes close to what is already there.



regards,

Bob Mann

Mystic

Detroit

Stus-List email test

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Sorry about the extra traffic.  Trying subscribing using my gmail account to 
see if the html problem persists there.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: February 13, 2022 11:54 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed


When I rebuilt my A foredeck hatches (two of them now) I bought the seal 
material from a local glass shop that installs commercial plate glass windows 
like you see in stores and office buildings. I forget what the tubular rubber 
seal is actually called. But if you take a couple of inches of what you have 
into the glass shop, they can cut you a length of the great big roll they 
probably have . I can't recall if I used 3/8" diameter or 1/2". The adhesive I 
used was 3M trim adhesive that would be used to install a rubrail on a car.
 
The idea of going to McMaster Carr is also a good idea, and a lot less 
expensive that buying from A or another boat supplier. The only downside is 
what you do with the 90+ feet of rubber you will have left over after you 
rebuild the hatch.
 
Rick Brass
Imzadi C 38 mk1
la Belle Aurore C 25
Washington, NC
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Stus-List 
Sent: Feb 12, 2022 1:51 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed
 
 
The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement? Nothing I've seen at hardware stores 
even comes close to what is already there.
 
regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

 

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I had bushings made locally by a machinist

From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Sent: January 6, 2022 9:13 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

I have to drop my rudder on mk1 30
Is it hard to source part or bushings

On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 11:21 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Jeff, Wow! that had to be frustrating! I hurt just reading that...; I can 
imaging getting that phone call..."uh, we just crushed your rudder..."!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge 
Lane<https://www.google.com/maps/search/2950+Breckenridge+Lane?entry=gmail=g>,
 Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Jeff Nelson mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Thu, Jan 6, 2022 8:36 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder issues
I've replaced my rudder 3 times since I've moved to Nova Scotia.  Trucking 
industry needs better
training for truck drivers.  I'm with you Mike, I really wouldn't want to 
remove it every year.  Every other
year is bad enough.  I now put down pylons and whatever bulky items I can find 
around the yard to
alert people they are backing into my boat!  Njord and I suffered the same 
fate, same delivery driver, 2 different
clubs one year.  I think I've exhausted the used rudder market in Nova Scotia, 
so next one will be my
buddies in CCI, Ottawa.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C - 0549
On 2022-01-05 16:40, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Last year we dropped the rudder on Persistence to replace the rudder bushings.

After going through that process once I cannot imagine how annoying it would be 
to remove the rudder every year! (unless I was sailing a Laser)

I have been following this thread with interest – and yes this list is amazing!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com/>





[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>

Virus-free. 
www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ=download=0-m6CKM9KPXYGNJ4zhsVYBxQ]
www.jdroofing.ca<http://www.jdroofing.ca>

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Last year we dropped the rudder on Persistence to replace the rudder bushings.

After going through that process once I cannot imagine how annoying it would be 
to remove the rudder every year! (unless I was sailing a Laser)

I have been following this thread with interest – and yes this list is amazing!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com



From: Paul Hood via CnC-List 
Sent: January 5, 2022 4:34 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'CHARLES SCHEAFFER' ; Paul Hood 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

To expand on the set screw idea.  A garboard drain would be ideal.  I have one 
in the hull and duplicating that on the rudder makes sense.  Otherwise, 
repairing the problem and keeping the water out is always best. But hey, 
sometimes you never know and having it off every winter is good insurance.

Paul Hood
REFUGE - ’81 C Georgian Bay

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: January 5, 2022 3:05 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

Set screws are a great idea for a drain.
That's why this list is so valuable.  So many different listers; so many 
alternative ideas.

I'm going to try that idea.  Heretofore, I've always drilled the quarter inch 
hole.  My rudder usually drips a few drops and stops, but It drips after a 
heavy rain, so I am pretty sure the joint, where the shaft exits the top of the 
rudder, leaks.  Drilling the hole is just insurance against ice expanding 
inside and delamination.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Chesapeake Bay

On 01/05/2022 12:56 PM John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Firefly (C 27 III) has a similar problem. We installed set screws for the 
drain holes which allow the 2-3 cups of water to drip out in the fall. Sealed 
with Vaseline when the set screws go in at spring launch. No issues this way.
Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2022, at 12:31 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thank you, Spencer.

Makes sense. I'm in south Florida, so we never get a freeze. I drilled a couple 
more holes, dug around with a screwdriver, vacuumed it a lot, and have had my 
heat gun blowing in the area for about 3 hours now...at a safe distance.  Its 
seems pretty dry, but I'm going to let her set in the sun for several days. 
Fortunately, I don't think its to bad. The upper 75% seems very dry since I 
drilled out one of the foam fill holes when they made it.

Overall I think I roll with this fix and monitor it next time I haulout.

Really appreciate having this group to turn to for advice and stories.

Regards,
Brian

On Wed, Jan 5, 2022, 12:04 PM Spencer Johnson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Brian...I replaced my rudder in 2018 after years of bringing it home over 
the winter to let it drain out of the rudder-shaft connection.  I gave up and 
had Competition Composites (cci.one) in Ontario repair it.   Their computer 
scanned the rudder, removed the fiberglass and foam confirming that the SS post 
was in good shape (because of the black/brown tarry ooze that came out of the 
rudder I was relieved), then they scanned the shaft.  After cleaning it all up 
they used a CNC milling machine to cut two halves of hard Divinycell foam - 
inside and outside - then packed with epoxy.  The outside was covered in 2 
layers of fiberglass mat, vacuum bagged, then faired and primed.  Some pics:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bz49si3Z0GdDd2sxVXNHV1Iwc0E?resourcekey=0-mxt2XK3szmOGKjPR91NARA=sharing

They have a video of the process on the website.  Cost was about 3k but the 
exchange rate US to CDN was quite favorable.  Shipping was not cheep...a crate 
cost about $100 and was very well made.  Rudder weight dropped in halffrom 
325 to 150 lbs...much easier to reinstall!

Brianif your boat is outside in the frozen tundra you can be sure it won't 
just get better.  I had the yard use G-Flex on the shaft to rudder 
joint...water still got in.  So, not a matter of IF but WHEN.  For me...I was 
done removing the rudder each fall and taking it home so it would not freeze.  
The new rudder is solid peace of mind.  Good Luck!!

Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"  #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Dwight

We do not have radar so everything we have to make them see us helps

Happy 2022
Mike

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: December 31, 2021 4:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

I see. I have all the Raymarine gear displayed on instruments in a pod above 
the companion way. Speed, depth, wiind speed and angle true and apparrent and 
also a graphic display that gives me digital apparent wind angle and windspeed 
readout or any othe combination of up to 4 parsmeters display. I pay careful 
attention to apparent wind angle and speed thru the water when trimming for 
performance short legs and vmg for longer hauls. I hope those big ships are 
watching for you but happy at least that you can see them. I rely on my old 
Furuno radar display in the cabin but visible from the wheel when unexpectedly 
caught in fog. I do very little after dark sailing. Sometimes it’s a nightmare 
just keeping the simple instruments i have working. More wire more connections 
more possible failure spots.

On Fri, Dec 31, 2021 at 4:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dwight

Short answer is NO – not always.

Better answer is that I want other vessels to see me when doing coastal trips 
at night and in the fog. We already receive AIS so I see the big tankers that 
will plow us under doing 14 knots and I want them to see us before that happens.

The rest of the gear?  I like knowing Speed over Water especially when racing.  
I like not hitting bottom so depth can also be important.  Smart people know 
the wind speed and direction but for the rest of us having it displayed is nice.

For the setup it turns out that Raymarine has a SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 spur 
connector and you can plug in directly to SeatalkNG backbone.

This does give me a reason to climb up the ladder in the winter to run my newly 
installed diesel heater and tinker with the boat though ..

All the best

Mike

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: December 31, 2021 3:32 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you just 
interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at least 
long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year

On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks Dave

Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug right 
into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple

Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone 
currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49 each 
Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add

From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable connector.  
Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the NMEA 2000 standard 
effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone and a range of NMEA2000 
devices - it works seamlessly.

Dave



On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Likely a question for Fred Street

Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine a65 
multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network

Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna splitter. 
 Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and Nema2000 
connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.

A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60 instruments. 
Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs so do not believe 
this model has the Nema 0183 wiring

How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so that 
I can see AIS targets?

Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into 
SeatalkNG backbone? 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028705%7C2028879=1108756>
That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.

Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and 
separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the Nema 
2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the a65 is 
also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?

This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
ww

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Dwight

Short answer is NO – not always.

Better answer is that I want other vessels to see me when doing coastal trips 
at night and in the fog. We already receive AIS so I see the big tankers that 
will plow us under doing 14 knots and I want them to see us before that happens.

The rest of the gear?  I like knowing Speed over Water especially when racing.  
I like not hitting bottom so depth can also be important.  Smart people know 
the wind speed and direction but for the rest of us having it displayed is nice.

For the setup it turns out that Raymarine has a SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 spur 
connector and you can plug in directly to SeatalkNG backbone.

This does give me a reason to climb up the ladder in the winter to run my newly 
installed diesel heater and tinker with the boat though ..

All the best

Mike

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: December 31, 2021 3:32 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you just 
interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at least 
long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year

On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks Dave

Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug right 
into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple

Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone 
currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49 each 
Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add

From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable connector.  
Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the NMEA 2000 standard 
effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone and a range of NMEA2000 
devices - it works seamlessly.

Dave



On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Likely a question for Fred Street

Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine a65 
multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network

Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna splitter. 
 Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and Nema2000 
connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.

A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60 instruments. 
Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs so do not believe 
this model has the Nema 0183 wiring

How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so that 
I can see AIS targets?

Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into 
SeatalkNG backbone? 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028705%7C2028879=1108756>
That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.

Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and 
separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the Nema 
2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the a65 is 
also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?

This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Dave

Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug right 
into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple

Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone 
currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49 each 
Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add

From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable connector.  
Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the NMEA 2000 standard 
effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone and a range of NMEA2000 
devices - it works seamlessly.

Dave



On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Likely a question for Fred Street

Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine a65 
multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network

Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna splitter. 
 Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and Nema2000 
connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.

A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60 instruments. 
Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs so do not believe 
this model has the Nema 0183 wiring

How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so that 
I can see AIS targets?

Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into 
SeatalkNG backbone? 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028705%7C2028879=1108756>
That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.

Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and 
separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the Nema 
2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the a65 is 
also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?

This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Likely a question for Fred Street

Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine a65 
multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network

Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna splitter. 
 Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and Nema2000 
connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.

A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60 instruments. 
Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs so do not believe 
this model has the Nema 0183 wiring

How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so that 
I can see AIS targets?

Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into 
SeatalkNG backbone? 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#
That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.

Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and 
separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the Nema 
2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the a65 is 
also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?

This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sea stories vs Fairy tales

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

It is nice to see that we all agree about FantasyLand

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
Sent: December 22, 2021 2:57 AM
To: Stu Murray 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Sea stories vs Fairy tales

It seems a bit quiet on the list...

The difference between a sea story and a fairy tale:
A fairy tale begins with "Once upon a time..."
A sea story begins with "now this ain't no sh*t..."

Now this ain't no sh*t:

Back in the IOR racing days of the early 80's I was a card carrying member of 
the Foredeck Union (abbreviated as FU).  As a FU member in good standing, when 
on a crew doing the foredeck (Adventure land) duties, I always felt I owned the 
boat from the mast forward.

This particular race boat was 54' custom design with a powerful sail plan to 
help with the typical light air of the PNW.  With large often heavy sails 
(including an early Kevlar #3 that seemed to be made of plywood) some sail 
evolutions took longer than others.  The owner/skipper/tactician (top guy in 
Fantasy land) was (still is) very competitive, spent considerable $$ for the 
extra 1/10th knot speed increase, and he thought he owned the entire boat 
regardless who was on the bow.

In the middle of a long point to point race with many transitions, head 
sail/spinnaker/head sail etc., the owner yells something at the foredeck I 
couldn't quite hear but maybe something like "a bunch of little girls could 
hoist that sail faster". Being a young (ish) arrogant card carrying FU member I 
responded with a full throated "F*ck you".

Fortunately the pit guy was sharp witted and well placed between the foredeck 
and the cockpit.  When the owner yelled back, rather angrily "what did he say?" 
the pit guy answers "put up the #2".

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Port Ludlow/Seattle

Sent from Mail for Windows

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Raced on a 115 for 6 years. A machine upwind if enough weight on rail. Main is 
a bear but beautiful to look at and trim

Can't say enough about its sailing qualities

Mike hoyt
Persistence
Not a c 115
Halifax ns

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: November 29, 2021 6:41:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

C 115 all day long. I love the older Rob Ball LATE 80's 37 and 34 XL/ R's but 
they could never match their ratings. Having owned one! 1989 37XL.

-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 4:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

Dennis,
So many variables.  Location, prevailing conditions, local coastal or offshore 
events.
I would probably lean towards a 34R with new sails including an Assym and 
Symmetrical Chute, a baby smooth bottom job, and really good beer so I could 
attract the best possible crew.  And let someone really good drive because I am 
terrible driving upwind.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> 
> If one was to buy a C to totally trick out for handicap racing, which model 
> would you buy and why?
>
> What modifications would you make if you had a bunch of boat bucks?
>
> !!!  Don't forget to trim your responses if this thread builds.  !!!
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder shaft play

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi John

On Persistence we replaced the rudder bushings last off season. Persistence is 
a 1987 Frers 33 but the process is likely very similar.  Our play was as much 
from wear on the rudder post as from the bushings and there was some pitting 
where the rudder post meets the rudder. These are two things to look out for 
and to address.

The entire project was documented here: 
http://www.hoytsailing.com/RudderBearing.htm

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



From: John Read via CnC-List 
Sent: November 20, 2021 7:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder shaft play

After 40 years the rudder now has a bit of play laterally and fore and aft.  
Bottom of rudder can be moved less than an inch in all directions.  Not bad but 
should be addressed.  This also is most likely causing the leak through the 
shaft where it penetrates the deck fitting causing the donut to be not true to 
the stainless plate on the cockpit floor.  The design is very simple – shaft 
rides inside tube (with grease) that is glassed into hull, shaft is open from 
top of tube to bottom of cockpit floor to allow steering quadrant , shaft goes 
through hole in cockpit floor, through stainless bearing plate on top of 
cockpit floor, through delrin washer, then shaft is threaded and donut 
installed that rides on delrin washer.
My initial thought is to machine a delrin bearing and washer that would fill 
the small gap between the shaft and hole in the bearing plate / cockpit floor 
but wanted to inquire if anyone else has had similar issues or thoughts

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 33-II vs 35-II

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On a rea h a longer waterline boat usually has faster hull speed so would pass. 
If all boats were same design they would have same hull speed and woukd not 
pass on a long reach. On short courses  with short legs even wl length makes 
little difference.

I know the races rob talks about . They usually have legs over a mile long so 
the bigger 35 would certainly be faster downwind and I don't disagree that the 
slightly more modern 33-2 faster upwind

Just my thoughts

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: November 13, 2021 10:48:15 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List C 33-II vs 35-II

Matthew,

Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently over 5 
raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first windward mark before the 
35-IIthe 33 always pointed higher...not much changed on the reach but the 
35 gained a few boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II would take back all the 
33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 crossed the finish just ahead 
of the 33

In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.

What am I saying that is impossible?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:
That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because they set 
only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  The reported 
rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a reach.”  What you’re saying 
is impossible.

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List C 33-II vs 35-II

Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in the Bras 
d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good crew.  The course 
was a beat, reach and runevery race was the same, the 33-ii would get to 
the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, but once on the reach and run, loose 
it all back.   There was nothing we could do to change it after 5 races.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Temperature gauge on Yanmar

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Has anyone installed a dedicated temperature gauge on a yanmar engine similar 
to 3GM30F?  Can it be as simple as attaching to the sender unit that goes to 
the idiot light on the control panel?

When a panel alarm goes off I usually shut down the engine immediately and 
forget to check which lamp was lit.  Would be nice to have a temp gauge for 
reference.  I do have an oil pressure gauge and would love to have both

Thanks

Mike Persistence
Haliofax
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

If you are happy with your speed on current angle then gybe when true wind 
angle is the same on the opposite gybe.  Sure sounds simple but most of us gybe 
too late or too early.

Too early on a light wind day means that you will end up sailing deeper and 
slower than you intended or performing extra gybes.

Too late on a breezy day means that you will end up with wind more forward than 
you would prefer and perhaps have a bit of a sporty approach to the mark

And of course contrary to what most tacticians and drivers like to think gybing 
does involve sail handling and a potential for error.  This can be detrimental 
to boat speed since not all gybes are performed equally and some can in fact be 
very amusing to your competitors.  This fact is why there is a Foredeck Union

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I agree with Joe

Although we do it ourselves and do it every year we also need to have a group 
of people who come on their own time.  For these reasons I do everything I can 
before they arrive to use the least amount of their time that is necessary.  
Much would be the same if you pay to have someone else do it as otherwise the 
Rigger would have to do these tasks that are very time consuming.

Prior to the day of un-stepping the mast these are the things that I do and 
that you can also do:


  *   Have all masthead gear removed.  Wind transducer, windex, VHF antenna.  
Send someone aloft to do this
  *   Have boom removed.
  *   De-rig all running rigging.  Have the halyards no longer running thru any 
blocks attached to the deck and coiled neatly and attached to mast
  *   Un-pin all shrouds and stays.  Lubricate all turn buckles.  Take a turn 
off of each to ensure they are not seized

These few steps take a lot of time but perhaps you can contact the people 
un-stepping the mast and see if doing this on un-stepping and then you doing 
the re-rigging would save on your quote.

I know that we have worked on a lot of masts.  Some owners are far more 
prepared than others and as a result the job takes less than half the time

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: October 3, 2021 3:30 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

This is not routine here in Maryland, my mast has been out exactly one time. I 
think it was $160 out and $160 in, which was the hourly crane charge back then. 
I had all the sails off, wiring disconnected, forestay and backstay off 
replaced by halyards, boom off, and the shrouds ready to go. The crane was 
literally done in about 10 minutes. If you paid the yard to do everything I can 
well see it hitting $1000.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Andrew

Rod rigging is much more expensive than wire.  On a C a number of years 
ago the turnbuckles were replaced on the shrouds on both sides using the 
existing rod.  The cost was over 3K

Someone once told me that the cost of a single rod was about the same as the 
cost of all the wire standing rigging on a boat.  Then someone else told me 
that it was the cost of all the fittings on each end of the shrouds and stays 
that were the big cost.  Bottom line is lets not lose our rig!

MIke

From: andrew macLean via CnC-List 
Sent: October 1, 2021 4:13 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: andrew macLean 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

Doug,

That sounds like a lot! What does $18k buy you? Surely more than a mast step 
and new shrouds? Our surveyor advised that our standing rigging was near the 
end of its service life. $18k is more than I have to spend.

Andrew MacLean
C 30mk1
Gulf Islands, BC


On Oct 1, 2021, at 12:02 pm, Doug via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Jim,
I went to port Townsend rigging, was quoted $13k for all new standing rigging. 
Ended up with an $18k bill. $3k just for the crane to pull and restep the mast.



Doug Mountjoy
sv Rebecca Leah
C & C Landfall 39
Port Orchard Yacht Club
Port Orchard, WA


 Original message 
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10/1/21 10:52 (GMT-08:00)
To: 1 CnC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Jim Watts mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Mast in and out

As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a cost 
for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I thought $1500 
was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our 29-2, so maybe 
prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to what kind of costs 
folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if this is reasonable. I 
also recently got a quote for $4500 which then ballooned to $9000 and counting 
to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does this sound at all in the ballpark?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We have a spar crane at our club that is no charge to members.  We get a group 
of owners together to do our own

If we pay someone it is under $500 each way for  boat such as the 35.  I 
suspect that you may need to hire a boom truck, etc as part of your mast down 
and put it back up

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax


From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: October 1, 2021 2:51 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Mast in and out

As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a cost 
for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I thought $1500 
was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our 29-2, so maybe 
prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to what kind of costs 
folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if this is reasonable. I 
also recently got a quote for $4500 which then ballooned to $9000 and counting 
to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does this sound at all in the ballpark?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

We were with Royal Sun Alliance (RSA) for a number of years.  We did have a 
claim and they were very good to deal with.

Used to have a three pay system where you were billed three times per year but 
they stopped doing that./  this was the only reason we moved on to Intact

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
Sent: September 30, 2021 4:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sylvain Laplante 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

I did not follow all the thread but here ( Montreal , Quebec with my 1975 C 
on lake Champlain ) I am insured with Royal Alliance ( now RSA Group ) through 
my insurance broker. No new survey for 10 years ( I have the option : with 
survey for real value of my boat or no survey for market value of the boat ).
I never had a claim in  25 years though..

Sylvain
C MkIII



On Thursday, September 30, 2021, 02:51:48 PM EDT, Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



OOps,

Checked in with Progressive this morning and the lad that insisted I was 
covered for storing in Canada was wrong.  Refund will take 12 to 14 days and 
required some work to unwind in my paypal account.   So I will move my search 
to Canadian underwriters, anyone have a favorite in the Niagara or GTA area.  
Need to check to see if they will cover a 1976 C Mk1 before wasting our  
time...

FDR
On 9/29/21 9:25 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
I've had Progressive for the last twelve years.  Never had a claim.  No survey 
required during that time.  I got it mostly for liability and becasue marinas 
require it, but my policy also has a stated "cash value" in case of loss.  Each 
year the premium drops a little, (like $20) so I always renew.

Chuck S
On 09/27/2021 4:11 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.

I have never had a claim except for towing and now I use Boat-US for 
that--$250/year which I may drop.

Before I switch, has anyone had any experience with the claims 
procedure/reimbursement from Progressive--good, bad or indifferent?

Saving money on insurance is a fools errand if you have to hire a lawyer to get 
them to pay a claim.

Charlie Nelson
36 XL/kcb Water Phantom
Greenville, NC

-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 

To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 1:11 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
They didn't ask me for a survey.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 9:48 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting 
department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.  
After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.

Matt Wolford
1976 C 42 Custom

From: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Glenn Henderson mailto:ghe...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

Did they require a full survey?

Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
C 41
WeGo

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my 
insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check, I 
asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of insurance was 
$487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 

Stus-List Re: Refurbishing CNG fittings

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Adam

Someone elsesuggested them and when I contacted they were great.  Will be 
asimple transaction

Mike

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: September 27, 2021 7:01:22 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Adam Hayden
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refurbishing CNG fittings

Mike

Try hose fittings supply in Burnside.   They built my complete propane system 
including a number of custom length hoses.   The old system had different 
lengths with copper Ts and regular hose clamps.

Adam
C 36
Pictou NS

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 11:42:04 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refurbishing CNG fittings

Any propane supply company will have solenoids and regulators. Tell them it's 
for a cng system, in case they have to adjust the regulator.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 6:31 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have decided to replace or refurbish the regulators and solenoid on the CNG 
system on Persistence.  I had noted that even with the solenoid not turned on I 
would still get gas to the stove and have lately begun to suspect there may be 
a leak in the system.  So rather than simply looking for an obvious leak (soapy 
water etc…) that it may be time to replace the 30+ year old solenoid and the 
two regulator like parts where the tank attaches to the line.



The link below shows the parts that I am hoping to replace.  Does anyone on 
this list know where o source them and what should be asked for instead of 
“regulator like parts”?



https://www.hoytsailing.com/CNG_Regulators.jpg<https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.hoytsailing.com/CNG_Regulators.jpg__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-hbraeaC7t-myqTiLyN89xHjaHMfgpz4T9rt1JLO_Bpz6pI882FmHFvRxJIzOR5VZ_o$>



Thanks



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
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   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Refurbishing CNG fittings

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have decided to replace or refurbish the regulators and solenoid on the CNG 
system on Persistence.  I had noted that even with the solenoid not turned on I 
would still get gas to the stove and have lately begun to suspect there may be 
a leak in the system.  So rather than simply looking for an obvious leak (soapy 
water etc…) that it may be time to replace the 30+ year old solenoid and the 
two regulator like parts where the tank attaches to the line.

The link below shows the parts that I am hoping to replace.  Does anyone on 
this list know where o source them and what should be asked for instead of 
“regulator like parts”?

https://www.hoytsailing.com/CNG_Regulators.jpg

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There are no CNG filling stations for cars in our region.  The nearest is in 
the Montreal area which is over 1000KM from Halifax.

We do have a testing station with our gas company that pump capable of filling 
our canisters.  My understanding is that it takes nearly 3 hours to fill one …  
They have been kind enough to accommodate me with my one tank.

Our main issue is that we need to have these tanks DOT 3 certified in Canada 
every 3 years.  The US certification is not accepted here.  This means finding 
a company willing to perform hydrostatic testing and certification of the tanks 
every five years.  That has proven difficult but we have located one that is 
only 3 hours from Halifax.  Most Dive shops and Fire and Safety shops do not 
wish to work with CNG cylinders and are also unfamiliar with them.

Finding some place to buy them new is even more difficult.  Corp Brothers was 
the eastern supplier but they have been purchased I believe by Air Liquide and 
there was a West Coast company as well but it is long gone.  Any Google 
searches of CNG cylinders turns up large industrial sizes or the ones for using 
on cars and trucks.  These are much larger than the ones used for marine stove 
fuel, very expensive and totally unsuitable.

This brings me back to the other option.  Replacing with a propane oven.  That 
would mean a very expensive conversion to the existing oven if even possible at 
this time or discarding a very well working appliance and purchasing a new one 
(not where I really want to spend boat bucks).  It also means finding a storage 
location for a propane tank on a boat that does not have a propane locker.  
That would be a huge job or would involve the ugly solution of hanging a 
propane tank off the back of the boat.

So we have come full circle back to sourcing new CNG cylinders, finding a shop 
to perform hydrostatic testing and certification every five years and finding a 
re-filling station.  We are almost there!

An awful lot of bother to cook the odd breakfast and use the oven once a year

Thanks for reading

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
1987 Frers 33
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>


From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: September 23, 2021 6:39 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

I fill mine at the local CNG station that fills cars for about $2.50 or so.
My insurance company, Progressive, never asked about CNG or anything else.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA




From: Doug via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2021 5:07 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Doug mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

Try a welding supply shop that also sells welding gasses.



Doug Mountjoy
sv Rebecca Leah
C & C Landfall 39
Port Orchard Yacht Club
Port Orchard, WA


 Original message 
From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 9/23/21 12:39 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

This doesn't answer the question, but my insurance company (Geico through Boat 
US) made me remove the CNG cylinder from the boat stating it was a fire risk; I 
had to send proof that the tank was off of the boat before they would grant the 
insurance; the reason given was that it was mounted in the locker and not a 
separate enclosed space; since we rarely cook on board, that was the path of 
least resistance for me...anyone else experienced this? thanks

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu>>
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 3:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders
I seem to recall that CNG cylinders are SCUBA cylinders with a reverse thread 
so that they can't be mistaken for cylinders with O2 in them. When a tank is 
empty, it is exchanged for a full tank. Another choice is to have the local gas 
company fill your tank for you. You might check with a propane distributor, or 
with your local gas company.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:15 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
There are several people at our marina that have CNG for cooking.  We are 
wondering if anyone on list has a source for new CNG cylinders?

Thanks

Mike
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https:

Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Alan

We have been able to have our tanks refilled but are looking to replace some 
with new.  Is very difficult to fin a source

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
Sent: September 23, 2021 4:25 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

I seem to recall that CNG cylinders are SCUBA cylinders with a reverse thread 
so that they can't be mistaken for cylinders with O2 in them. When a tank is 
empty, it is exchanged for a full tank. Another choice is to have the local gas 
company fill your tank for you. You might check with a propane distributor, or 
with your local gas company.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:15 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
There are several people at our marina that have CNG for cooking.  We are 
wondering if anyone on list has a source for new CNG cylinders?

Thanks

Mike
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-1bPKJH7SrsutyCRG0Gcym3Gu8yP1Fq3JF2XJ_Om705Kj_7M0nJwKywf8jWekl9e3dU$<https://urldefense.com/v3/__https:/www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-1bPKJH7SrsutyCRG0Gcym3Gu8yP1Fq3JF2XJ_Om705Kj_7M0nJwKywf8jWekl9e3dU$>
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List cng cylinders

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There are several people at our marina that have CNG for cooking.  We are 
wondering if anyone on list has a source for new CNG cylinders?

Thanks

Mike
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Eva faux decking

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rod

Dan and Shelley Pryde used something similar to that in cockpit of Highlander 
and it looks very nice.

Mike

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
Sent: September 20, 2021 8:55 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Eva faux decking

Has anyone use the EVA teak marine decking?  If so do you recommend it and are 
you aware of a supplier here in Canada and/or Nova Scotia?

Rod
Halifax
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 TRDK

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Graham

Is that Mischief?

Mike hoyt
Persistence
Halifax

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: September 18, 2021 10:07:43 AM
To: C List
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Stus-List C 40 TRDK

Hi!

Any C 40 owners on the list willing to offer opinions on this model?
There is one local to me that might be worth a look. The good, the bad,
hidden things to look for?

--
Graham Collins
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There is no bad balsa.  Only bad owners (or prior owners)

I think it is safe to say that pretty much all water saturation of balsa is 
caused by poor bedding of  fittings

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: September 17, 2021 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cscheaf...@comcast.net; Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

Great info and research; so, how did balsa go from "wonder" material to;  "bad 
stuff don't touch..."?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Balsa core history
Hey JohnKelly,
Hopefully, Rob Mazza will share some info on this.

I imagine C did considerable testing to determine the strength of their 
construction to evaluate laminate schedules and optimum core thickness.  Do you 
remember seeing any letters in your binders explaining the testing done, data 
collected, etc?

Chuck S


On 09/16/2021 5:34 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Rob Mazza is the expert in this specific topic

JK
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

, but that is better covered by John Kelly Cuthbertson or others with more 
personal knowledge.



Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Any system that does not actually measure the boat is pretty much subject to 
similar problems. Those that are not administered locally are less subject to 
local bias but  also do not have the capability to fix local problems. One 
major benefit of PHRF is that in North America it is widely used and easy to 
find ratings for similar boats in other areas.

Measurement systems also have problems.  The most obvious being the effort and 
cost to have a boat measured

The only “real” fix is for everybody to buy the exact same boat … but most of 
us do not like the same boat which is why we all choose the one we want or can 
afford. And even then the boats are not all the same or equal.

Racing does seem to be more about the people you have with you on the boat as 
we age.

And for Randy and Jim … my sailmaker is also where I get my skis!  I have in 
the past bought a headsail and ski boots on the same visit

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
Sent: September 12, 2021 11:45 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

Our Wednesday night series uses PHRF of Long Island sound but is also using ORC 
on a test basis for a limited number of boats.  Biggest issue is getting enough 
similar boats to enter so there can in fact be a competitive class


John Read
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: the rum is gone! (and the boat too)

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The 37+ would be an excellent choice Graham!  When you have a pretty boat like 
the 35-3 sometimes it is hard to see what could be as nice or better.  The 37+ 
may be that boat

Best Luck

Mike

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: September 12, 2021 10:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: the rum is gone! (and the boat too)


Not quite, but the delivery back to Nova Scotia would be fun!

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2021-09-12 9:41 p.m., Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
If your boat isn't found, I hope the insurance settlement would cover buying 
Edd's boat. : )

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 12 Sept 2021 at 10:45, Jim Watts 
mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com>> wrote:
That really sucks, Graham. I hope they find your boat, and if not, I hope you 
have really good insurance.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 12 Sept 2021 at 05:19, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

List member John noticed a posting on 
BoatWatch
 and connected the dots that it is my boat missing.  The short version - 
Wednesday night my boat was stolen, sailed out of Halifax into the middle of  
Hurricane Larry, where the thief had sufficient issues to merit activating a 
PLB that was onboard.  PLB battery has since died, and searching for the boat 
has only resulted in sighting flares Friday night.

Working theory is that the thief is an escaped drug smuggler from Antigua who 
had recently been arrested smuggling $60m of coke into the country (by 
sailboat) and escaped during a hospital checkup.

I couldn't make this up...

--

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 34r sails

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi  Chuck

Have a friend who recently bought a 34r. Who do you recommend for making sails 
specifically for the 34r that knows and understands the boat when designing and 
building a main sail?

Thanks
Mike hoyt
Persistence
Halifax ns

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck S via 
CnC-List 
Sent: May 25, 2015 10:47:36 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stearn gauges

I'd suggest calling a hydraulic ram repair company nearest to you.  The guys 
who repair dozers and backhoe rams.   My local guys rebuilt my leaking Navtec 
-10 system, ram and remote pump station for $35 when Navtec dealer quoted $750. 
 Been good for at least 5 years so far.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Paul Hood via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Paul Hood" 
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 7:29:44 PM
Subject: Stus-List Stearn gauges

I'm looking to replace my Stearn gauges on the hydraulic panel for my vang
and backstay.  Any suggestion on where to find a suitable equivalent gauge.
They are currently fogged up so bad that I can't read them.  They are 3500
psi and 5500 psi.

Thanks,
Paul Hood
1982 C

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: May 24, 2015 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 70

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Today's Topics:

   1.  Teak oil suggestions? (davidrisch75)
   2. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (Jim Watts)
   3. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (dwight veinot)
   4.  A-4 zincs (Robert Gallagher)
   5. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (Dennis C.)
   6.  Cool idea for matching wood shades (Bill Coleman)
   7. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (Wally Bryant)
   8. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (wwadjo...@aol.com)
   9. Re:  Teak oil suggestions? (Josh Muckley)
  10.  Antifreeze Mystery (robert)
  11. Re:  Antifreeze Mystery (Knowles Rich)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 12:39:42 -0400
From: davidrisch75 
To: CNC CNC 
Subject: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?


David F. Risch.?

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device. ?
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 09:46:34 -0700
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Cetol.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2015 at 09:39, davidrisch75 via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?
>
>
> David F. Risch.
>
> Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 May 2015 14:40:21 -0300
From: dwight veinot 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

agree with cetol, several coats...I did 5 coats a few years back when I had
the hand rails off for rebedding which I did with butyl tape and not much
upkeep yet, just light sanding and touch up on the top surfaces so no
cutting in or scraping...I like the look of teak on these older boats
otherwise I might have gone to stainless steel hand rails

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 1:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cetol.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 23 May 2015 at 09:39, davidrisch75 via CnC-List
> 
> wrote:
>
>> Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?
>>
>>
>> David F. Risch.
>>
>> Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent 

Stus-List Re: Using a broker

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Adam

Is no extra expense.  When using a buyers broker the commission is split 
between the selling broker and the buying broker.  On top of that the Buyers 
broker is looking out for your interests and can make a whole ot of things go 
more easily for you ...

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: August 23, 2021 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Using a broker

Hello listers


We are considering/ starting our search  and looking for  something  newer and 
slightly larger than our current 1981 C

I am sure this has been debated before.   Do I need to have a buyers broker( 
like real estate) looking our for my interests or is that an unnecessary 
expense?   I purchased my last 3 boats without one but they were more local.

Thanks
Adam Hayden

Thanks
Adam

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

This more about my thoughts. With masthead rig backstay tightens forestay but 
causes major problems with main. Some like cc33 fix with baby stay and others 
with check stay. The check stay fixes a lot of this but adds extra work and 
complexities on tacking. Is totally different than running backstays imo.

We rarely ever run checks although I suspect with great crew they would really 
help mainsail trim

Mike
Prrsistence
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: July 23, 2021 9:54:37 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

I just finished splicing some dyneema for the running backstays for my Baltic 
47. I assume that's what you are calling check stays. So yes, I think Dyneema's 
a much better option than wire. We use the boat mostly for coastal cruising, 
occasional ocean racing, and occasional ocean passages.
Just FYI check stays are the lower running backstays. On a Star, the running 
backstays control headstay tension while the checks control mast bend and are 
an integral part of sail trim.
On our boats the runners stop the inner forestay from bending the mast too much 
when we are using a staysail and also stop the mast pumping when we are beating 
in waves (which is my most common use). We use the backstay for headstay 
tension and the runners can stop the backstay from bending the mast too much.
Andy
Baltic 47 Masquerade
Formerly of C 40 Peregrine

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260


On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 8:45 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Do you actually use these? Our frers 33 has check stays and although they help 
with main shape we rarely use them due to added complications tacking etc

Mike
Peraiatence
Halifax

From: cenelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: July 23, 2021 9:26:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Wire vs. Dyneema check stays


I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 yr 
old 1995 C XL/kcb.

The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to better 
match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money.

He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire, for the check stays.

My concern is uv damage to the dyneema which I understand has been a problem 
with using it vs. wire.

His response is that the early coatings used to protect dyneema led to short 
lifetimes but that the newer coatings have solved that problem.

OTOH, my wire check stays are still fine “…after all these years…”

My question is should I go with dyneema for the checks or stay with new wire 
assuming the costs are similar?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson


Sent from the all new AOL app for 
iOS<https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Do you actually use these? Our frers 33 has check stays and although they help 
with main shape we rarely use them due to added complications tacking etc

Mike
Peraiatence
Halifax

From: cenelson via CnC-List 
Sent: July 23, 2021 9:26:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Wire vs. Dyneema check stays


I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 yr 
old 1995 C XL/kcb.

The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to better 
match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money.

He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire, for the check stays.

My concern is uv damage to the dyneema which I understand has been a problem 
with using it vs. wire.

His response is that the early coatings used to protect dyneema led to short 
lifetimes but that the newer coatings have solved that problem.

OTOH, my wire check stays are still fine “…after all these years…”

My question is should I go with dyneema for the checks or stay with new wire 
assuming the costs are similar?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson


Sent from the all new AOL app for 
iOS
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Danny

I once sold a complete roller furling assembly off a previous boat.  The one 
thing I learned the hard way is that Loc Tite is used when the foils are 
assembled.  Don't forget to apply heat to the set screws before removal or it 
may not be so pretty.

I used UPS for the shipping.  Sent along with a RF headsail so shipping was 
something like $150 at the time.

Regards

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: July 9, 2021 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

OK so, Steve Mallet  was the first to respond and he's looking for the lower 
stuff.

I'm in Rehoboth Massachusetts.

I'm sure the foils can be shipped.  Just need a longer box and its all about 
cost from there.

The thing is still completely assembled at the boatyard, in a rack, currently 
in Barrington RI.  I'll have to try and get over there and start pulling it 
apart.

Although, time is always the issue, My boat is now in Mattapoisett Ma in the 
completely opposite direction.

I'll see what I can do about getting it apart.  No one seems to be in a big 
hurry, would these just be spares to have on hand?

I think the first thing to do is get the thing broken down and out of the 
boatyard.  I'll keep you all posted on how that goes.

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: dukatolla--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "dukato...@hotmail.com" 
mailto:dukato...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 16:51:45 + (UTC)

Hi Danny,

I have a Harken II Unit 1

Same as Bruno Spare Connectors and a Foil..would be a great thing to 
have in the parts department.

Cheers

Johnny Wright
1970 C
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario, Canada

On Friday, July 9, 2021, 11:19:32 a.m. EDT, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


HI Guys, I replaced my old harken roller furler with a new Sheafer.

Before I toss it, I thought I'd see if anyone needed any parts.  Maybe I should 
send it to one of the used boat parts places.  At least maybe it could go to 
use rather than being trashed...

I replaced the old harken traveler too.  So, I still have that laying around.

Danny
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Old Harken Roller II

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Danny

What model furler and do you have pictures?  Some of those parts are no loger 
made and very difficult to get.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: July 9, 2021 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Old Harken Roller II

HI Guys, I replaced my old harken roller furler with a new Sheafer.

Before I toss it, I thought I'd see if anyone needed any parts.  Maybe I should 
send it to one of the used boat parts places.  At least maybe it could go to 
use rather than being trashed...

I replaced the old harken traveler too.  So, I still have that laying around.

Danny
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: moisture meter

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Canadian tire also sells one if you are in Canada.

Again … set to highest sensitivity (it has settings for various surface types) 
and just look at the relative numbers.

Mike

From: Jeffrey Brideau via CnC-List 
Sent: June 18, 2021 7:20 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey Brideau 
Subject: Stus-List Re: moisture meter

My surveyor recommended I buy this one. He said it's just as useful as the 
professional model he uses and keeps one himself as a backup in his bag. Use 
the pinless contact, highest sensitivity, and don't worry about the specific 
numbers. If it screams, it's either wet or you found something conductive like 
backing plates or anti-fouling paint etc. I found it very useful.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Combo-Pin-and-Pinless-Moisture-Meter-for-Water-Damage-and-Mold-Prevention-MM9/303124004?source=shoppingads=en-US=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-HandTools_LIA_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-HandTools_LIA-7170043839315-5874592003384-92700061026903131=CjwKCAjwiLGGBhAqEiwAgq3q_s6HZMMY8SjYEtrnE8vOmJOIIjnbcxto8FSqjA30iVARkDI0XJhTPBoCTMQQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 9:53 PM Gord via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does anyone have any recommendation for a moisture meter for fiberglass/C 
boats

Gord
Firefly
1994 C 34+

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Forward "Bulkhead"

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Joel

Much less complicated but I replaced the forward bulkhead in 2 J/22s in summer 
2019 and documented on a web page.  With the 33 I would expect removal of the 
pieces surrounding the bulkhead would pose a big challenge.  The bulkhead 
replacement process would be the same though.

Go to www.hoytsailing.com and click on the J22 
project link on bottom of the page.  There are photos and descriptions of the 
progress

Hope this helps

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Sent: May 27, 2021 6:13 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C Forward "Bulkhead"

I would say cut it out and put a new piece
Or does the Kingston museum for C
Have the plans for the boats

On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 11:35 PM Andrew Walther via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi there,

Forward most bulkhead is rotting and I can’t figure out how to remove it.

Here’s a video…

https://photos.app.goo.gl/e77DRbCFEQnFiBJ99

Any help / suggestions would be most appreciated!

Thanks!

Andy
C (Tryfan)
Comox, BC
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: fun with moisture meter and how/if to fix wet spot

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Joe

We had a 1979 Niagara 26 built by George Hinterhoeller. It was gelcoat, glass, 
balsa, glass.  I suspect George used the same build methods on the C when he 
ran the production.

This link shows re-coring on our J27 which was also built n the same manner
http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax NS


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: May 21, 2021 1:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: fun with moisture meter and how/if to fix wet spot

So this brings up a question: Is it, from top down, fiberglass, balsa, 
fiberglass, and then liner or is it fiberglass, balsa, and then liner???
Overall, seeing as my boat is 48 years old, I can’t complain too much. I can 
find much newer boats with much worse problems without looking very hard and 
Coquina certainly hasn’t only been “driven to church on Sundays by a little old 
lady” and otherwise sat at the dock.
I am currently using almost none of the original wire in the boat, but some of 
the cabin light wiring is too hard to replace and still works so it stays.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I 1973
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 29 Mk2 Upgrade/Improvement

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi John

You can use a full hoist jib and bypass the furler if you wish.  Drop the upper 
swivel to below the "gate" in the foil (whatever you call that thing).  Attach 
halyard directly to head of sail and tack to attachment below the furler.  
Doesn’t really hurt sail shape at all

Mike
Persistence
Halifax NS

-Original Message-
From: John Heaton via CnC-List  
Sent: May 14, 2021 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List C 29 Mk2 Upgrade/Improvement

Hi folks (long note) – so I’m in the process of doing upgrades / improvements 
on a new to me 1983 C 29 mk2 for local racing / daysailing on Lake Ontario.  
I know it’s a 4ksb – it would never keep up with the Melges 20 I sold, but it’s 
a heck of lot more comfortable to sail.  There was never a place for a BBQ on a 
Melges 20.  Even though the boat is old, the deck is actually bone dry – 
doesn’t look like anyone drilled new holes in the deck anywhere!  It already 
has jib and spin sheet winches, but pretty much everything else is original.

So here’s my plan:

2021:

-  Installed boomkicker to replace topping lift
-  GFlex’d the C smile (this could be a regular fix)
-  Replaced sheets (jib/spin)
-  Installed tweakers
-  New main (North Radial dacron, couldn’t justify the price of 3Di)
-  Trim laminate #1 to fit on the furler (makes it easier to
double-hand)
-  Velocitek (if we get racing this year)

2022:

-  New instruments (probably B Triton speed/depth/wireless wind
-  New halyards (MLX3) and all other running rigging
-  Replace sheet stoppers /
-  Replace vang / backstay / mast base blocks
-  Replace all lights with LED
-  New AGM batteries (may require replacement of the existing
battery charger)
- new spinnaker

SO 2 questions:
- for daysailing/club racing is 3Di overkill?  I had them on the Melges 20 and 
they were far more durable than laminate sails and their shape was great, but 
the price differential is substantial.

- what other upgrades have folks done?  I've thought about replacing the furler 
with a Harken CarboFoil, but the furler makes it a lot easier to daysail and 
race doublehanded.

It doesn’t have a stove – hence the BBQ on the rail.

John
Double on the Rocks
CAN363
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Mk2 - swapping jib / spinnaker halyard

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi John

I would be worried about the pin halyard getting tangled with the jib halyard 
due to gybing, etc ...

Our most often used spin halyard is on the port side as well.  On windy days 
you can just brace your back against leeward shrouds while jumping the halyard. 
 It has not been a problem.  For stbd roundings we usually opt for the stbd 
spin halyard which would then be in the same situation

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



-Original Message-
From: John Heaton via CnC-List  
Sent: May 7, 2021 11:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List C Mk2 - swapping jib / spinnaker halyard

Hi folks - on my C 29 Mk2 the jib halyard comes out on the std side of the 
mast and the spinnaker on the port side and I want to reverse them to make it 
easier to "jump" the spinnaker halyard.

Anyone else done this - I noted the spin halyard exits the mast higher than the 
jib halyard, so I will probably do this in the fall when the mast has been 
dropped?

thanks

CAN363
Double on the Rocks
Toronto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis

These are all double walled to protect the hull.  Just google heater exhaust 
thru hull or heater exhaust transom thru hull and you will find plenty of 
examples to look at.  Typical installation has approx. ¼ inch of space between 
the pipe portion that travels thru the hull and the hull itself.  On top of 
that as is standard practice the balsa is dug out in the opening and replaced 
with thickened epoxy to prevent water intrusion into the hull.

Very good question though.

FWIW this entire project presents interesting challenges all along the 
progression of installation.


  1.  Where do I locate the heater unit?
  2.  What do I mount the heater to?
  3.  How do I route the ducting to the cabin?
  4.  How do I route the exhaust?
  5.  The Chinese versions are reputed to have lesser quality exhaust 
components and no thru hull so these must be sourced and replaced.  (the fresh 
air to heat is in cockpit locker same as where exhaust components live – vs 
when installed in truck or camper)
  6.  Once all of the above is complete electrical gets looked at.  I suspect a 
boat has longer electrical runs than a camper due to location of heater in 
cockpit locker

All of this in very cramped locations inside the nether regions of a sailboat.  
If all comes together then hopefully will have a  cozy boat to overnight on 
earlier and later in the season.  Especially important when there is nothing 
else and nowhere else to go these days

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: May 6, 2021 10:03 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull


Being from the south where we're more concerned about air conditioners, I'm not 
familiar with heater exhausts at all.  If one goes through a balsa cored 
portion of the hull or deck, is there concern about heat and the balsa?  Or is 
a heater exhaust fitting designed to protect the core from excessive heat?  
Just curious.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh

That is where Persistence Engine exhaust comes out as well.  I believe the 
concern for a diesel heater exhaust is water ingress from a following sea so it 
is generally advised to have it a specific distance above water level.  That 
could work though with a high exhaust loop in the boat but would be a bitch to 
access from the outside for installation with the boat in the water!

Mike

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: May 5, 2021 11:24 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

Mike, I don't know if it changes anything but ALL of my discharge and exhaust 
ports come out under the reverse transom.  You can see it in the video linked 
below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yb1hNSENwOHRaZ1k/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, May 4, 2021, 15:19 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with the 
exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom?

The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust hose 
into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for water to 
build up at this elbow joint.

Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Race Photos -> previous...Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Jeff

The Baddeck area of Bras d'Ors lakes seems to be always calm in the morning and 
then 12-18 knots starting around 12:30.  Baddeck Regatta Week is a fun event 
because there is one longish race per day with exception of Thursdays that has 
two.  Races start at 12:30 with start line a very short trip from clubhouse.  
Is great fun for old folks like me!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: May 5, 2021 10:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Race Photos -> previous...Re: Question re heater transom 
exhaust thru hull

That looked like a great race.


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thank you Graham

I just found a similar one on ebay 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194046570203?hash=item2d2e13aedb:g:2J0AAOSw22FfpZ7f 
which comes to $83 CAD.  I ordered it.  Anyone want a spare 24mm Wabasto 
Eberspacher 24mm exhaust thru-hull?  I will now have an extra one.

On this page http://www.hoytsailing.com/baddeck_regatta_week_2015.htm if you 
look at second photo from bottom you can see why it would not work on the side 
of the hull.  The angled thru hull that Graham suggested resolves my problem 
properly.

Gotta love this list!

Mike

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: May 4, 2021 7:45 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull


Hi Mike!  Haven't seen you in over a year, hope all is well.

Secret Plans has an Espar with the exhaust out the transom, it is angled 
sufficiently that I have absolutely no concerns about drainage, it has worked 
flawlessly since 2010.  I've got it tucked up high as I could and still get a 
12" upward hump in the exhaust hose (and maintain clearance from the hull).  
Boat is at BBYC on the hard for another 10 days if you want a look, you've got 
my OK to climb up.  Don't steal the rum.

My fitting doesn't have an elbow, it is welded up on an angle.  Like this one:  
https://www.nwmarineair.com/thru-hull-fitting-angled/

best,

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2021-05-04 4:18 p.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with the 
exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom?

The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust hose 
into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for water to 
build up at this elbow joint.

Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with the 
exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom?

The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust hose 
into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for water to 
build up at this elbow joint.

Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax NS
www.hoytsailing.com



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gmail filter

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

You can turn off conversation mode in gmail.  Conversation mode really blows!

You can also use a different email program with your gmail account.

Mike

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: May 1, 2021 2:31 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Gmail filter

I'm not having any issue with gmail using this filter:

Matches: subject:(*Stus-List*)
Do this: Skip Inbox, Apply label "C list", Never send it to Spam

I have a folder called C list.  Hence the second criteria in my filter.  All 
list emails end up in that folder.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 11:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I found a bunch of messages in my Spam folder. I have no idea why they are 
going there, but I'm getting pretty sick of Gmail.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sat, 1 May 2021 at 04:59, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
And about 50% of the time my responses don't post.  I responded to this thread 
about using natural sponge and it never showed up on the list.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

You can use a 3M stripper wheel.  Others on this list can probably provide the 
proper name for it.  Is basically like a white pencil eraser that is wheel 
shaped and used with a cordless drill.  Worked very well for me to remove 
former home port off Persistence

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
Sent: April 21, 2021 4:22 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

Adhesive lettering is WAY easier than old painted lettering! 

A heat gun and a sharp scraper are your friends. The heat gun will loosen the 
adhesive on the vinyl and then you can get a scraper or razor edged scraper in 
underneath to peel it off.

Dean 
C 34
Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Envy

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Graham

There are a dozen or so boats already in at our club.  I am slacking again this 
year!

Mike

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: April 7, 2021 9:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Envy


Mike is hard core!  Must have been working on his boat last weekend in the 
sleet!

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2021-04-07 8:17 p.m., Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
Mike,

My envy is duly noted...you motivated me to uncover the boat todayI could 
be ready next week to launch.note, could be ready, depending on motivation 
and ambition and of course, weather.

Bob


On 2021-04-07 9:43 a.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

2 days til launch!  (eat that Bob!)

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Heavy spinnaker sizing vs medium/light for 33-2

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bruno

Ask him what type of boat the sail was made for.  That should give you a better 
idea of the dimensions

We were gifted a Mumm 36 spinnaker this past winter.  The Frers 33 and C 33-2 
have almost identical foretriangle so this is a similar situation to the one 
you are looking at.  Frers is I=45, J=13.33 where the Mumm is fractional spin 
at I=43.7 J=12.6

This spin will be a bit short on the hoist but not 3 feet.  Also a bit narrow.  
Should work a s a decent backup spinnaker for Persistence and may be useful on 
windier days.

2 days til launch!  (eat that Bob!)

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
Sent: April 6, 2021 8:07 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Heavy spinnaker sizing vs medium/light for 33-2

Thank you all for the group wisdom.

To be clear my plan was never to compensate the shorter length of the luff by 
not hoisting the chute to the masthead. I am fully aware of the consequences in 
higher winds. I have seen people do that before when the chute is on the 
smaller side in the attempts to have a fuller shape in light conditions. No big 
deal when it's light, but even then I really doubt it makes the boat faster. It 
sure looks bad!

So back on deck. As a reference, I usually set my pole at about 18-20 inches 
higher that the boom, with a chute 3 ft shorter, i'm worried I would need to 
set the pole too high, but I thought maybe I could flat the sail a little and 
keep the pole lower than usual. Gybing with the pole too high does not look 
appealing neither.

The seller is pretty far so impossible to have a look or confirm measures. He 
says the sail is 40.8 but he measures 44 " by hand" whatever that means. With a 
foot of 21.5, 40.8 makes more sense, so a tad short.

Still tempted by the price...and It is appealing to keep my nice North AirX 600 
crisp for racing.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine , 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc.





Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 6 avr. 2021 à 17:07, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :
Bruno, I tried what you are thinking about. It didn’t work. Dennis is right, 
you do not want three feet of halyard swinging your chute around – it does not 
get pretty. And, if you have the pole hoisted up in the air to get the chute 
hoisted all the way, you have a higher center of effort for that chute and it 
will move around, which is what you don’t want in heavy weather. The ultimate 
trick would be to have a separate halyard attached three feet down the mast 
just for that chute, but on our masthead boats, you will get all tangled up 
with the forestay. Sorry.

Gary – 30-1
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 3:56 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Heavy spinnaker sizing vs medium/light for 33-2

A heavy weather chute should have narrow shoulders.  It should be fully 
hoisted.  Failure to fully hoist in heavy weather will increase the potential 
for oscillation and loss of control.

While we're on heavy weather spin flying, on Touche', we never ever let the 
center seam cross to the weather side of the forestay.  That is, we prefer a 
slightly reaching trim as opposed to a dead downwind trim.  Trimming the 
chute's center seam to weather of the forestay increases the chances of 
oscillation and ultimately a death roll.

I'd rather broach than do a death roll!

To answer the question, talk to your sailmaker.  This chute sounds a wee bit 
short to me.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bruno,

Sounds about right.  Just don't hoist the chute to the masthead.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 10:42 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Question for the spinnaker gurus of the group:

The light/medium sym spinfor my 33-2 has a luff/leech lenght of 44 ft and a 
foot of 23.3 ft. This is a sail designed for this boat

I'm looking at a used spin that seems to be a heavier cloth, that would be used 
as a S-3. The dimensions are Luff: 40.8 / foot: 21.5




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bill

The rudder posts on Frers 33 were all aluminum.  Yes it is an aluminum weld.  
There was pitting where the rudder post meets the rudder likely due to 
antifouling paint, dissimilar metals and many years of service

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: March 30, 2021 5:31 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

Mike, I know I am getting distracted from the original question, but I have to 
ask –
Around the eighth picture from the bottom, there is a shot of some weld on a 
rudder shaft – it is obviously aluminum TIG weld, but the shaft looks like 
stainless, I have never heard of an aluminum rudder post on these boats. And it 
looks like it really toasted the fiberglass – do you know if your shaft is 
Aluminum?


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:24 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Phil Walsh (phil.wa...@gmail.com<mailto:phil.wa...@gmail.com>); Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

I am copying my friend Phil who manufactured rudder bushings for Persistence.  
We also had some wear on the post just above the rudder that made it slightly 
out of round and induced fore / aft play.  Phil may be able to comment on how 
he took the measurements and manufactured the bushings and the product/process 
he used to build up the post and return it to its original specifications. The 
Frers 33 is very similar to C and of the same vintage so the process and 
products would be very similar

Persistence rudder is back in the boat and steering connected and play is gone. 
 A link to the project can be found here 
http://www.hoytsailing.com/RudderBearing.htm

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>


From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: March 30, 2021 10:04 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
mailto:joel.delamira...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

Does south shore yacht still have bearing for the rudder?
I need one for mine mk1 30 1973

On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 8:45 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Is this the delrin ring around the top of the rudder post ? When ours gave up 
(split) I got one from SouthShore that was a good fit, had to get the pin also 
as the old one was bent before we bought Perception. Going to be time for 
another soon I am sure ... so interested in what you find.

-Original Message-
From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: March 29, 2021 9:16 PM
To: C Stus List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Rudder post bearing for 33ii

So, Mike and me was talkin’.

Both our boats have  had the rudder post bearing replaced  - I was fortunate to 
have an almost intact original and was able to fabricate a pretty good 
replacement - mike was not so lucky and has a serviceable but temporary 
solution in play.
I would like to create (really, have someone more digitally capable create) an 
accurate drawing and maybe make up a few of these.
My original is broken into two segments and is therefore not the best choice as 
a pattern.
It is very hard to measure this accurately with the rudder post installed.   
Does have a drawing or any thoughts about creating one?  This would be shared 
amongst the collective of course!

Dave - 33ii

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ=download]
www.jdroofing.ca<http://www.jdroofing.ca>

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am copying my friend Phil who manufactured rudder bushings for Persistence.  
We also had some wear on the post just above the rudder that made it slightly 
out of round and induced fore / aft play.  Phil may be able to comment on how 
he took the measurements and manufactured the bushings and the product/process 
he used to build up the post and return it to its original specifications. The 
Frers 33 is very similar to C and of the same vintage so the process and 
products would be very similar

Persistence rudder is back in the boat and steering connected and play is gone. 
 A link to the project can be found here 
http://www.hoytsailing.com/RudderBearing.htm

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com


From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Sent: March 30, 2021 10:04 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

Does south shore yacht still have bearing for the rudder?
I need one for mine mk1 30 1973

On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 8:45 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Is this the delrin ring around the top of the rudder post ? When ours gave up 
(split) I got one from SouthShore that was a good fit, had to get the pin also 
as the old one was bent before we bought Perception. Going to be time for 
another soon I am sure ... so interested in what you find.

-Original Message-
From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: March 29, 2021 9:16 PM
To: C Stus List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Rudder post bearing for 33ii

So, Mike and me was talkin’.

Both our boats have  had the rudder post bearing replaced  - I was fortunate to 
have an almost intact original and was able to fabricate a pretty good 
replacement - mike was not so lucky and has a serviceable but temporary 
solution in play.
I would like to create (really, have someone more digitally capable create) an 
accurate drawing and maybe make up a few of these.
My original is broken into two segments and is therefore not the best choice as 
a pattern.
It is very hard to measure this accurately with the rudder post installed.   
Does have a drawing or any thoughts about creating one?  This would be shared 
amongst the collective of course!

Dave - 33ii

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List HappyBuy diesel heater

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I purchased on e of the Chinese made copies of the Espar heater.  It is the 5KW 
version.  Next step is to figure out where to install it.

Persistence has basically the identical layout to a C 33-2.  Have any 33-2 
owners installed one of these and if so where?

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS
1987 Frers 33 #16
www.hoytsailing.com

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails - sailmakers in Canada

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

North, Doyle and Michelle Stevens lofts still build sails locally in Nova 
Scotia.  There may be a couple of others as well in business (maybe a UK loft 
near Lunenburg and one other?)

The big question though is do sails have to self isolate for 14 days if 
travelling from Ontario to Nova Scotia?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: March 16, 2021 10:59 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

Google-Fu shows three sailmakers in Toronto and three more in Victoria. There 
does appear to still be sailmakers in Canada. If you mean literally making 
sails from scratch, maybe not, but they still would repair sails I would hope.
Joe
Coquina

Ps – anyone remember Haarstick sails? I still have some of their sails, back in 
the day we really liked them and the furling genoa they made for us was great. 
That thing was the equivalent of a car with 300,000 miles on it when it finally 
went to the great sail loft in the sky.

From: Bill
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetrical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Be sure to consult your rating authority if attaching tack line to a sprit or 
even an anchor roller.  The anchor roller may be treated as a sprit for that 
purpose and incur a penalty/adjustment if projecting further than J

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: March 8, 2021 11:58 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Asymmetrical Spinnaker outside jibe

I hope you are not suggesting attaching it in any way to your pulpit, I think 
that would end badly.
I am in the concept stage of this, but with an anchor roller that will get me 
at least 20” ahead of the Headstay, and a gusset down the front of the stem.
I personally like to keep the A sail ahead of the forestay, I’ve had too many 
trials of terror trying to get an asymmetrical  un-wrapped from around a roller 
furled jib.
I find it novel that we have gone from old boats with bowsprits, to clean 
looking bows, and then back to bowsprits, albeit a little different.
Then from Gaff rigged sailboats to Marconi rigs, and now back to square-top 
Mains.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 10:34 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail) to be 
able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this technique have 
the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the headstay.  That seems 
pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point there.  My tack can either 
be attached directly to a padeye on the deck behind the forestay or to a strap 
around the furled headsail and then to the padeye.   I think that means that 
every time I jibe, the tack line will wrap around the headstay.  Is that a 
problem?   I could douse with the sock and redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for 
racing) or add an attachment point to the pulpit for a block so I am forward of 
the headstay.  Am I missing something?  How do others without sprits do this?  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D71418.30A43F00]

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with thickened 
epoxy.  Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy for the 
fastener.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
Sent: February 16, 2021 7:26 PM
To: Matthew via CnC-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

Do you do anything special to keep the epoxy in place until you can put some 
tape under the glob?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 01:31:10 PM CST, Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track, a 
trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit 
encounters the underside of the deck.  The result is that the hole on the deck 
surface stays the same size.  In addition, you know precisely where to place 
the deck fitting and drill the new hole.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Or keep your old patched 155 and use the 140 for the slightly breezier days and 
forego the reef

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
Sent: February 9, 2021 5:30:15 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind

Would you get a PHRF adjustment credit by moving to a 135% Roller Furling 
headsail?

Rod Stright
Halifax

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: February-09-21 12:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List New sails, new wind

Hello all listers.

I have a hypothetical for the racers among you.

I need to replace my 3DL headsail--its mostly patches after ~ 5 years of club 
racing locally. This is about my 3rd laminate style headsail---and my last!

I am probably going with the North 3D Nordac which has replaced the former 3DL 
technology with what they call a composite sail--not laminated but still built 
over a 3D mold of the sail shape desired--if I understand this correctly. I do 
not need the super light and costly Raw or Endurance.

Anyhow, I plan to move to a new sailing area off Southport, NC near Bald Head 
Island at the mouth of the Cape Fear River--basically on the NC coast.

All my club racing to date has been in the Pamlico and Neuse Rivers, 
occasionally racing to Ocracoke across the Pamlico Sound. For these areas, a 
155% headsail is the largest you can race with locally without penalty and so 
that is what I have always used.

The North sail maker suggested because of the higher coastal winds that I may 
not need a 155% since the wind strength is higher at the coast. OTOH, a racer 
there uses a 155% headsail and says he does well with it.

I checked the historical average wind speed for Southport and New Bern and the 
coastal winds are from 20-25% higher than at New Bern.
For instance, the avg. wind speed varies from 5.5-8.1 knots in New Bern vs. 
about 7-10 knots in Southport, or about 25% higher on average.

Further, I know from experience that my masthead rig becomes seriously 
overpowered once the wind gets greater than about 12 knots true, when its time 
to reef the main(I only have 1 reef point) and if it goes above ~ 15 knots, I 
need to roll the headsail a few turns (or change down to a 135% or 90% 
headsail).

I am not inclined to go less than the 155% allowed locally (PHRF) but maybe I 
should--the local North guy suggested ~ 140%. This might better match the local 
wind and is less expensive since less material is used. OTOH, I don't want to 
be under canvassed on the light air days.

Further, there is the question of sail material weight to consider.

I plan for this to be my last headsail purchase and may use it some for local 
cruising in addition to club racing. BTW, it will be used on a furler either 
way.

So what would the listers do!!

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom




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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Strong track, lazy jacks, stack pack

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck

Persistence has lazy jacks that we sometimes have in place and use and other 
times have tied off to base of shrouds.  Sail cover is unmodified and still 
works with the lazy jacks.

I should point out that Lazy jacks are only half a solution.  In our case they 
do not work well even after we moved the aft most boom attachment point further 
forward.  The sail does not come down in a nicely organized manner and still 
requires flaking properly when back at the dock.  Part of this is likely due to 
the stiffness of our main which is a Quantum Fusion M5500 series sail with 
taffeta on both sides.

On our wish list is a Doyle Stack pack main.  We sailed on a sister ship that 
had this for cruising and sometimes also used on a Wednesday evening race.  It 
was very slick and the sail had a nice shape as well.  We were very impressed.

Dreaming of summer,

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: January 27, 2021 9:25 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Conklin ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Strong track, lazy jacks, stack pack

The Tides Marine strong track is very pricey and my system works fine without 
it.  If I had a full battan main I might consider one.

I am rigging lazy jacks this year to catch the main when I drop it.   I expect 
I will need to alter the sail cover and instead, I'm considering buying or 
making a stack pack instead.  Has anybody made their own or can offer advice on 
those?

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R


On 01/27/2021 8:11 PM John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I would love a tides track as 90% of my sailing is solo (About 250% more than 
last season)
I can hoist the main on my 37 from the cockpit except for the final
Only 1 block at. Foot of mast straight shot to winch.
Issue I have is dropping and stacking solo amd why I really want the tides 
track too!
But I was Quoted 3 boat $ bucks for that system  so other priorities first :(

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

In Halifax january 2016 4 x 8 teak & holly sole was $600 CAD. Expect has gone 
up in price since then

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: January 25, 2021 5:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

John

We are looking at doing the same.  Our sole is pretty worn as well.  That same 
plywood here is about double in price.  I think a number of the group here have 
done this already.


Would love to see your before and after pictures as we have a 36 as well.
Adam
Pictou NS


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu