Stus-List Re: Winch Sealant suggestions

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'd use good quality Butyl Tape, around the bolts and in the bolt holes.

Ken H.

On Wed, 10 Apr 2024 at 18:43, Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I mentioned a while back I was planning on replacing my old Barient
> primary winches…. well I’ve got a pair of new Harken 46 ST’s ready to go.
> I’ve removed the old winches, sealed the old holes, have starboard backing
> plates (probably overkill) and I'm ready to go.
>
> Wondering what you folks suggest for sealing under new winches, between
> winch base and fibreglass of cockpit? Old winches didn’t seem to have
> anything other than a bit of Butyl Tape around and in the bolt holes.
>
> Should I just do the same (appears to be solid fibreglass with no wood
> core at all under the winches). I’ve thought of putting some 5200 under
> bases, but I never like using that under something I may need to remove
> someday! Should I use 4200? Or something else?
>
> What says the C brain trust?
>
> Thanks, Dean
>
> BarraWind
> 1980 C 34
> Halifax NS
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We added the Balmar SG200 Battery Monitor to our boat a couple of years
ago. We have three battery banks, one engine start battery, and two house
banks of 300 amp/hour each (700 amp/hour total).  It seems to be a very
accurate system, giving lots of useful info on your Smartphone or iPad.

This is the version with no display, and a Bluetooth gateway: Balmar SG205
Smartgauge Battery Monitor with SmartShunt & Bluetooth® Gateway

https://ca.binnacle.com/pdf/Balmar%20SG205%20Brochure.pdf

More info here:  https://balmar.net/application/marine/battery-monitors/

Panbo review here:
https://panbo.com/balmar-sg200-a-good-battery-monitor-gets-better/

On Thu, 22 Feb 2024 at 16:40, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just reporting back that I changed my two AGM group 31s yesterday with two
> new AGM group 31s.  I thought 31's were a little bit bigger than 27's.
> Either size fits in my OEM battery boxes.  I still have the original
> battery switch, "off, one, both, two" so either battery can start or power
> the house loads.  It's not state of the art, but works.  I can't justify
> the cost to upgrade to lithium.  The batteries are very close to AGMs now,
> but the extra controllers needed to do a proper install push this upgrade
> to $2500 to $3000.  I'll probably sell my boat in a few years, so I won't
> give in to the lithium temptation.
>
> I added a $120 Victron "smart shunt" which I recommend to others when
> replacing batteries.  This device reads the amps going through the negative
> back to the battery, which wirelessly sends battery info to any smart
> phone, no display needed.
>
> Just for fun, I recorded all the loads in my boat, so I can better plan.
> It verified that my fridge only uses 48 watts when it runs and the LED
> lights and Canframo fans are super efficient.  I still need to change a
> couple of flourescent light fixtures that draw the highest amps, to LEDs.
>
> Summary:  If I lived on my boat, or planned to keep her for more than five
> years, I'd upgrade to a Lithium system and add solar.  Otherwise, I will
> use my AGM batteries and might add a third AGM for more amphours when
> cruising.  The new batteries were 72# each, ugh.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar Parts ?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I've had good luck with TOAD Marine Supply, based out of New Baltimore,
MI.  Back in 2001 they were able to supply an original Yanmar Turbo Inlet
hose that Yanmar stated was no longer manufactured, and so no longer
available.  I bought two from TOAD, to keep one as a spare.  They also
didn't have a problem shipping to Canada.

They seem to be associated with Marine Diesel Direct:


"In May of 2012, Torresen Online Acquisition, Inc. (TOA) entered into an
agreement with Torresen Marine, Inc. (TM), transitioning the ownership and
operations of their ecommerce online catalog.


Created in 1995, the online store has become one of the industry leading,
boating specific online retailers in the world with domain names including
MarineDieselDirect.com, LaserSailingDirect.com, SunfishDirect.com, and
BoatDollyDirect.com."


Ken H.

TOAD Marine Supply
Customer Service
Phone: 810.671.3365
www.TOADMarineSupply.com

On Fri, 16 Feb 2024 at 10:43, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the names of places people have used.
>
>
>
> FWIW:  I found via some searching that it appears “marine diesel direct”
> is either renamed or more likely has consolidated with another company at:  
> Discount
> Marine Source - Boating supplies and engine parts
> 
>
>
>
> The selection of Yanmar parts offered seems vastly reduced to what the
> marine diesel direct site had, has pictures of a plain brown box vs photos
> of the actual Yanmar part [which I found helpful in confirming part
> identification] and  have not tried to compared prices to the others sites
> suggested.
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* Peter W. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 13, 2024 12:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Peter W. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Yanmar Parts ?
>
>
>
> I’ve had good experiences with bay shore marine engines in Annapolis.
>
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> 90 C 30-2
>
> Irvington, Va.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> On Feb 13, 2024, at 10:45 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I just tried their website. No luck. I ordered an oil cooler from Scott
> Marine Power. They're in Florida. Price seemed ok. Shipping was high, but I
> think it was my fault.
>
>
>
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 1988 C LF 39
> Mexico at large
> 1984 Sabre 34
> Port Orchard, WA
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 13, 2024, 09:28 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I have ordered Yanmar parts from “marine diesel direct” for years as they
> had a good website that made finding the correct part fairly straight
> forward and they seemed to have good prices.  But I have not been able to
> connect with their website today, using multiple electronics.  They still
> show up in web searches, but no joy on connecting with the website.
> Anybody else use them and / or know what happened to them?
>
>
>
> More importantly, where are people getting Yanmar parts?  My local dealer
> is typically 30% or more higher which even after shipping charges makes
> online a better deal.  Am in CT and currently having the first real snow
> fall in years…  5” and counting.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I can’t say for sure how the Rudder is supported in an 85 C 37 but by
1988, the C$C 37/40 had a bolt through the Rudder Post just above the deck
with two rollers on either end of the bolt that rolled on a plate on the
deck.  Perhaps that bolt is sheared off?

Ken H.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 4:19 PM Matthew Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like the quadrant may have prevented it from falling out.  How is
> it supported at the deck?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 7, 2023, at 3:15 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder
> issue; my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early
> September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past
> week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how
> this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved
> the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone
> have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more
> importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable?
>
>
> We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to
> provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> ,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

A  125V 30 amp Male to 125/250V Female Pigtail

This won't do what you think in North America, instead it will do
something dangerous in one way, and not do anything at all in another.

The 125V 30 amp Male plugs into the power source and will have three wires
in it, Black (Hot, providing 125 volts referenced to both neutral and to
Ground), White (Neutral, 0 volts referenced to ground) and Green (Ground).

The 125/250V Female Pigtail will have four wires, Black (Hot, providing 125
volts referenced to both neutral and to Ground), Red (also Hot, providing
125 volts referenced to both neutral and to Ground and 250 volts referenced
to the Black, but 180 degrees out of phase with the black, because it is
tapped off the opposite end of the transformer, with the neutral tapped at
the halfway point, halfway between red and black), White (Neutral, 0 volts
referenced to ground) and Green (Ground).

So look at the source, it only has 125 volts to start with so you aren't
going to get more than that.  If you connect the red and black in the
female, to the black in the male (i.e. bring two legs of the same 125 Volts
into a 250 volt system) you will get 0 volts in any 250 volt circuit on
your boat. The 110 volt circuits on your boat will generally do what you
expect, and deliver 110 volts.  Depending on exactly how your boat is
wired, you may end up with more current in some of the neutrals on your
boat that they are sized to carry, so may create a fire risk.

Ken Heaton
(An electrician in one of my other lives)



On Fri, 21 Jul 2023 at 20:19, Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Check out an RV parts dealer.  They have all kinds of adapters.
>
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: checklists

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If you have an iPhone you could use 'Notes', already on your phone:
https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT209365

Ken H.

On Wed, 7 Jun 2023 at 12:32, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> What is the app you are using?
> I use Groceries shopping list for remembering things to take to the
> boat/cottage/trip/lumber store/etc
>
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 2023-06-07 12:28, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Does anyone else use checklists on their phone?  I find them great for
> building better sailing habits and eliminating drama.
>
> I keep my boat 2.5 hrs away from home and I used to get halfway home
> before remembering I forgot to close a window or the thruhull for the air
> conditioner, or turn off a battery switch.  Embarrassed, I would have to
> call my friend at the dock to check it for me.
>
> Last year, I found a free app for my phone that let's me make lists.  And
> I made a list called, "Before leaving boat" and it has about twenty five
> items on it so nothing is missed including stowing the flag and closing
> thruhulls and wiping down the fridge and leaving the lid open (to prevent
> mildew).  It helps build better habits and now I usually perform all the
> tasks from memory and just check them off afterward.  It's great to ensure
> everything is done and not have to worry about it on the drive home.  I
> also made a list, "Take to Boat" so I don't forget critical parts or tools
> needed for projects.  The phone is always with me, so the list is too, and
> the app is free and so easy to use.
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution 
> at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This looks like an easy to make tool.  Just a turnbuckle from the hardware
store and a little grinding.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=10338.0

Ken H.

On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 4:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive)
> tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.
>
>
>
> The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the
> alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third
> to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the
> procedure to be completed single-handedly.
>
>
>
> I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some
> similar outlet.
>
>
>
> I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end,
> I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be
> able to do it on my own.
>
>
>
> Could someone point me to this implement?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 c270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Jam Cleat

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Are you looking for thr jam cleats listed on this website?

http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

Ken H.


On Thu, 16 Mar 2023 at 13:20, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on
> our 80’s vintage C 37.
>
>
>
> Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Anode Question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Defender (and others) sell those pre-made.

https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=Zin040A

Ken H.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2022 at 09:45, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Guys,
>
> So, I'm leaving the boat in the water this winter (thanks to all who
> responded to that earlier question), and I need to replace the anode or,
> add one somehow.  I was thinking maybe I could attach a wire somewhere and
> dangle the an anode over the side, attached to the wire.  I think it might
> be too cold for a diver at this point.
>
> Or, if anyone knows of a diver that could do the job in Portsmouth RI,
> that would be great too.  I did call one that the yard gave me but, he
> didn't return the call.
>
> Thanks In advance for any suggestions.
>
> Danny
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Ken Heaton
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C 32 Babystay

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Back in 2018 Rob Ball said this:

Rob Ball via CnC-List
<https://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=cnc-list@cnc-list.com=from:%22Rob+Ball+via+CnC%5C-List%22>
 Thu, 08 Nov 2018 05:30:01 -0800
<https://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=cnc-list@cnc-list.com=date:20181108>

We supplied the boats with Baby Stays, knowing that the mast could be tuned
with a bit of bend so that it was not needed.  However, when the boat was brand
new, on the first sail, and not tuned yet, things could go south.  So, we kept
them on the boats.
In a violent seaway they do stabilize a pumping mast . . . .

Rob BallC 34


https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/msg56506.html


On Fri, 25 Nov 2022 at 10:38, Drew Adair via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I also have a 1984 C 32 with the same setup as Rob (no track; single
> attachment point).  Considering the tree trunk we have for a mast, I am not
> sure how much it does for the rig.  I do race and have considered
> installing an adjustable system, but I have never felt the benefit
> justifies the cost.  Unless you notice your mast pumping in stronger winds
> and lumpy seas, I do not think I would bother installing one.  (I can think
> of several more enjoyable ways to deplete my boat-budget).  With that being
> said, my sailing is on the Chesapeake where we have more light wind than
> heavy wind days.  Your mileage may vary.
>
>
>
> Drew Adair
>
> Aurora
>
> C 32
>
> North East, Maryland
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 24, 2022 8:22 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 32 Babystay
>
>
>
> My 84 C 32 has a babystay at a single point of attachment...no track.
> The babystay attaches to a SS plate with a loop on the foredeckthis
> plate is then attached through the deck to a SS rod running from the
> deck roof down to the hull in the very front of the V berth immediately
> to the starboard of the V berth entrance.it does not obstruct
> passage in or out.   Both the on deck bbstay and the rod below have a
> turnbuckle to adjustment although I will admit I have never adjusted the
> below deck one.  I normally have approx 700 lbs of tension on it.
>
> Given the size of the mast and type of sailing I do, I am of the opinion
> I really don't need it.   But since Rob Ball designed the boat for one,
> I use it.  There was an 84 C 32 at my club that took his babystay off
> and he never had any issues going up and down the coast of Nova Scotia
>
> If you are doing sailing in heavy weather and big seas where the mast
> might be pumping a lot, the babystay would help to stabilize the rig but
> otherwise do you really need it?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Ken Heaton
>
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Or take it to a competent Machine Shop that also does aluminium welding?

I'm guessing the crack is from water freezing inside in the winter when
the mast was stored?  Odd otherwise.

Ken H.

On Mon, 7 Nov 2022 at 07:18, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would say klacko marine in St. Catharines Ontario
> Or maybe metal store and make your own
> Or a scrap yard for boat
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 3:39 AM Macdara Vallely via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C?
>> I have a 1982 C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
>> leading
>> edge.
>>
>> Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J
>>
>>
>> I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
>> In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates
>> top and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes
>> compromise further?
>> All advice much appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Macdara
>> NYC
>> --
>> Macdara
>>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>

Stus-List Re: Keel Bolt Questions

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'm only going to provide an answer to Question No. 5. Use Tef Gel on the
threads.

https://ca.binnacle.com/p8658/Ultra-Tef-Gel-20cc-Syringe/product_info.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZubJY_3lTeOZZP05XWuIGzNR-xa-fE5ikq7vZtBetB1BfZCYAGwusRoCLhYQAvD_BwE

Ken H.

On Tue, 1 Nov 2022 at 16:51, James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My boat is a ’78 C 26. It’s a Florida boat and has spent all its life
> year round in salt water. I’ve had her for a few years now and I found the
> infamous “Smile” when I hauled out yesterday and have a few questions about
> re-torquing the bolts. After sanding in prep for paint I can see previous
> smiles have been repaired.
>
>
> 1) From the Keel Bolt Specification chart in the C Photo Album it shows
> the torque spec to be 350 Foot Pounds for the 1-inch bolts. Is Ft-Lbs
> correct or could that be Newton Metres?
>
>
> 2) I have three 1-inch bolts and one 1/2-inch bolt that is furthest aft.
> The Spec Chart lists a 1 1/2-inch nut for the 1-inch bolts. Mine are 1
> 5/8-inch. Does that mean these might not be original, or could C have
> sometimes used different size nuts?
>
>
> 3) All three of the 1 5/8-inch nuts have various stages of pitting, I’m
> assuming it's from electrolysis. The deepest pits appear to be about 1/8th
> inch deep. I’ll remove one nut and take it with me when searching for
> replacements to make sure I have the correct thread pattern. The question
> is: do I worry about the bolts themselves, or leave them be following the
> ignorance-is-bliss principle?
>
>
> 4) I once had a SS nut on a SS all-thread keel bolt gall when I was
> removing it — which caused all sorts of complications. I'm terrified of
> that happening here. Any tricks or suggestions to lessen the chance of that
> happening, especially since I suspect electrolysis issues? Also, I will
> need to cut about a 1/2- inch off the tops of two of the 1-inch bolts to
> get my deep socket onto the nuts (the bolts currently protrude 1 3/4-inch
> above the nuts. Will the heat from cutting through them contribute to or
> lessen the chances of galling?
>
> 5) When re-torquing should I use some sort of anti-seize or torque it dry?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26 - Whisper
> Miami, FL
>

Stus-List Re: C 34 Rudder Donut Nut

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I think you will have more luck at a local machine shop, either repairing
the existing thread (weld and redrill and tap), or drilling and tapping a
new hole elsewhere on the donut.

Ken H.

On Fri, 14 Oct 2022 at 21:44, carlfreemanjr--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Dropped the rudder on our C The set screw on the Donut nut were
> seized so they got drilled out.
>
> The rudder post threads fared fine but the Donut nut needs to be changed.
> Does anyone have a source for these or an alternative?
>
> Sent an email to Holland Marine but am not hopeful.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Carl
>

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Loads of trees down all over town.  Lots of power poles snapped off too.
No damage to our house or to our boat.  We lost one smaller tree in our
front yard, it uprooted, and lots of smaller limbs (and a few big ones) are
down off our other trees.  Still no power on at home yet, not since Friday
midnight.  No landline, internet or tv either.  Radio works...  The little
Honda EU2200i generator is presently running our deep freezer,
refrigerator, boiler & pumps, Annes’s sewing machine, and a few lights.
Glad I bought extra gas, we’re going to need it.  Something like 19,200
customers without power in town still, 100,000 out across Nova Scotia.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

N46°07.682’ W060°11.241’

kenhea...@gmail.com

S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

C 37/40 XL Salazar <https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html>


On Mon, 26 Sept 2022 at 09:01, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good to hear. It seems it was much worse further North (Cape Breton and
> NL).
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2022 6:21 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)
>
>
>
> OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and
> downed trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few
> hours here and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS
> still no electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and
> lineups at Tim Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator
> which allowed us to serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after
> the storm.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Dwight,
>
>
>
> How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones
> are ok.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: Stus-List 
>
> Cc: dwight veinot 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the
> nuts on your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound
> used was the problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep
> the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull
> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to
> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>
> --
>
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
> --
>
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

An interesting read from MarsKeel Technology, Keel Maintenance By: William
Souter

https://46in1h3fzpsy3uz5el3ytm6p-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Keel_Repair_White_Paper.pdf

Ken H.

On Mon, 26 Sept 2022 at 16:29, Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I’ve been following this thread a little bit, And I can’t help but wonder
> if the lead doesn’t creep a tiny bit over time.  There’s a lot of
> compression involved.  It wouldn’t take much to see a reduction in bolt
> torque.
>
> Dave 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:27 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> What do Mars Keels have to say?
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *G Donald Wagner via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald Wagner 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The
> Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the
> flow for the casting process.
>
> It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have
> some metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?
>
> Don Wagner
>
> C 41 CB
>
> "Der Baron"
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep
> the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull
> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to
> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Shower drain fitting

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The shower pickup is essentially the top of one of these Jabsco Utility
Hand Pumps (the top and bottom of the pump are red, it just doesn't show
red in the B photo on the spec sheet):
https://www.xylem.com/en-ca/products--services/pumps-packaged-pump-systems/packaged-solutions/drainage-dewatering2/utility-hand-pump-with-transfer-hose-kit/

You can buy a rebuild kit for the hand pump that includes a new top and
make it work:
https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/brand/jabsco/resources/manual/brass-hand-pump.pdf

Or you could buy a purpose built strainer and try to make it fit but I
think these are all going to be too large to fit the hose and shower sump:
https://www.xylem.com/en-ca/products--services/pumps-packaged-pump-systems/pumping-accessories/jabsco-accessories/bilge-accessories/bilge-strumbox-strainers/

Ken H.

On Sun, 21 Aug 2022 at 21:41, John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Looking for source for shower drain fitting.  OEM is 40 years old and past
> its prime.  Is re rubber, sits on floor of shower, connected to pump
>
>
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: 37+ Polars

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

See page 35 of the C 37+ Owners Manual (77 pages with illustrations) for
a Polar Diagram (not a table, sorry). There is a link to a
downloadable copy of the C 37+ Owners Manual here:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_25.html

Ken Heaton
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

C 37/40 XL Salazar <https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html>

On Wed, 15 Jun 2022 at 14:50, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Anyone have the polars in a table format?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This one:
https://www.perko.com/catalog/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/1154/horizontal_mount_side_light/

Ken H.

On Fri, 6 May 2022 at 00:03, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Randy,
>
> I’m pretty sure those are made by Perko. Still in business.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   |Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 5, 2022, at 10:53 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where to source the dome-style running lights for an
> older C, with the green red or white plastic insert?
>
> Here’s a photo of what I’m looking for:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xe1lV7JICWSDbu8LOfELaCvJkaZ6TM9C/view?usp=sharing
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>

Stus-List Re: Stus test #3

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

This one came through Google's servers to my Gmail account just fine.  I
should mention I haven't been getting any of the weird 'attachment' emails
at all.

Ken H.

On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 at 16:11, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:

>
> This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain and Rich (html)Text.
>
>
> Stu
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Email headaches

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

Interestingly, this email from you got through Google's servers and arrived
in my email inbox with no issues.  All my Stu-List email has been coming in
just fine, no problems.  I read it in  Google Chrome, as Gmail.

The cutting board arrived two days ago.  It is gorgeous, thank you very
much.

Ken Heaton
Salazar

On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 at 14:26, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:

>
> From what I am reading, these problems are not across the board.
> Individual
> email clients, servers, etc. appear to be the culprits.
>
> The archives for the list, are not showing any 'ghosts'.  Every message has
> full content and appears as regular text -- no funny html characters.
>
> I am sure with all the help I am getting that we will conquer.
>
> Stu
> There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Cutting Board

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Me too, it looks great, my wife said it was gorgeous!

Thank you Stu,

Ken H.

On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 at 12:36, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Me too! Looks great 
>
> -Original Message-
> From: jason shoemake via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 11:11 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: jason shoemake 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Cutting Board
>
>
> Got my cutting board last evening!
> Great work, Stu!
> Thank you!!
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

Stus-List Re: C 34/36 Boat reviewed in Sailing magazine

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

"Sailing" magazine

https://sailingmagazine.net/

On Wed, 19 Jan 2022 at 22:41, Kevin Driscoll 
wrote:

> 'Sailing World' or 'Sail'? I didn't see it in 'Sail'.
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2022, 4:22 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I would like to see it too, please.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, 13 Jan 2022 at 19:53, Allen Miles via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Chuck,
>>>
>>> I would like to see that article.
>>>
>>> Allen Miles
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 8:11 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> FWIW, there is a nice used boat review of the C 34/36 in the 2022
>>>> Jan/Feb *Sailing* magazine.
>>>> If anyone is interested, I can share a copy of the article.
>>>>
>>>> Chuck S
>>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I don't think it is easy to stay in the US for more than 12 month either.
But you only have to leave and go to another country for 15 days, then you
can return and start the clock over again.  I'm not sure what the similar
rule is for Canada.

Ken H.

On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 21:44, Dave S  wrote:

> Andy - you might need to make a short trip to st Pierre and Miquelon.
>
> Eurozone VAT is similar I believe, non-paid boats need to leave briefly
> and return to reset the clock (or pay) and paid boats can’t be gone too
> long or they lose their paid status.
>   I think I see a retirement gig in the med in my future!
> Dave
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 15, 2022, at 7:28 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Ken,
>
> Thank you all of this...everything one could want on the subject matter.
>
> Robert Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-01-15 4:59 p.m., Ken Heaton wrote:
>
> Further to this, it appears some of Henry's American clients had kept
> their boats in Canada continuously for up to 18 years without ever actually
> officially importing them, so never paid import duties:
> https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/tariff-for-non-canadian-boat-owners-threatens-yard-1.1322571
>
> In the long run, the rules were not changed, and this didn't seem to have
> any lasting effect on Henry's business.  The Cape Breton Boat Yard in
> Baddeck, Nova Scotia is still in business.
>
> Ken H..
>
>
>
> On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 16:53, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>> The "short amount of time" Andrew refers to is one full year (12
>> months).  The ``newish" law Andrew referred to has been on the books for at
>> least 20 years ( I think since the fall of 1998) but has been spottily
>> enforced. In theory, US boats are not supposed to overwinter (stay longer
>> than 12 months) in Canada without being legally imported and paying duty.
>> But there’s an exception. If a boat needs repairs, it may stay—and the
>> repairs, maintenance and storage of such yachts has been the core business
>> of Henry Fuller of the Cape Breton Boat Yard in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. And
>> though the necessary “repairs” may not have been very extensive, customs
>> officers have never been very exacting about the matter.
>>
>> For many years quite a number of American boats spent years on end in
>> Canada without being officially imported, using this loophole that allowed
>> the boats to remain here if "major overhaul" and other large shipyard
>> related jobs were being done to them.  The intention of this rule was to
>> allow shipyards to bid on large projects without having to worry about
>> import duties if the job stretched out beyond 12 months. Legitimate large
>> repairs can be extended beyond 12 months, up to as long as four years (48
>> months) if required, and permission for the extension(s) is granted.
>>
>> This loophole was being abused as many of these boats were really just
>> having light seasonal maintenance done.  Henry Fuller made a public issue
>> of it back in the fall of 2013 and so drew the attention of the government
>> agency tasked with enforcing the law, forcing their hand so enforcement
>> increased as a result.
>>
>> Some coverage of Henry's complaints are here:
>> https://www.oceannavigator.com/bad-news-from-baddeck/
>>
>> Here is another view:
>> https://contrarian.ca/2013/09/06/how-the-feds-are-killing-a-77-year-old-cape-breton-business/
>>
>> Here is a link to the actual rules and information for travellers (note
>> the wording on that page has not needed to been changed since 2014):
>> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/menu-eng.html
>>
>> Information about the length of time permitted for repairs are here:
>> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/importation-eng.html
>>
>> The actual letter of the law here:
>> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-1-1-eng.html
>> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-2-3-eng.html
>> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d8/d8-1-1-eng.html
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Further to this, it appears some of Henry's American clients had kept their
boats in Canada continuously for up to 18 years without ever actually
officially importing them, so never paid import duties:
https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/tariff-for-non-canadian-boat-owners-threatens-yard-1.1322571

In the long run, the rules were not changed, and this didn't seem to have
any lasting effect on Henry's business.  The Cape Breton Boat Yard in
Baddeck, Nova Scotia is still in business.

Ken H..



On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 16:53, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> The "short amount of time" Andrew refers to is one full year (12 months).
> The ``newish" law Andrew referred to has been on the books for at least 20
> years ( I think since the fall of 1998) but has been spottily enforced. In
> theory, US boats are not supposed to overwinter (stay longer than 12
> months) in Canada without being legally imported and paying duty. But
> there’s an exception. If a boat needs repairs, it may stay—and the repairs,
> maintenance and storage of such yachts has been the core business of Henry
> Fuller of the Cape Breton Boat Yard in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. And though the
> necessary “repairs” may not have been very extensive, customs officers have
> never been very exacting about the matter.
>
> For many years quite a number of American boats spent years on end in
> Canada without being officially imported, using this loophole that allowed
> the boats to remain here if "major overhaul" and other large shipyard
> related jobs were being done to them.  The intention of this rule was to
> allow shipyards to bid on large projects without having to worry about
> import duties if the job stretched out beyond 12 months. Legitimate large
> repairs can be extended beyond 12 months, up to as long as four years (48
> months) if required, and permission for the extension(s) is granted.
>
> This loophole was being abused as many of these boats were really just
> having light seasonal maintenance done.  Henry Fuller made a public issue
> of it back in the fall of 2013 and so drew the attention of the government
> agency tasked with enforcing the law, forcing their hand so enforcement
> increased as a result.
>
> Some coverage of Henry's complaints are here:
> https://www.oceannavigator.com/bad-news-from-baddeck/
>
> Here is another view:
> https://contrarian.ca/2013/09/06/how-the-feds-are-killing-a-77-year-old-cape-breton-business/
>
> Here is a link to the actual rules and information for travellers (note
> the wording on that page has not needed to been changed since 2014):
> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/menu-eng.html
>
> Information about the length of time permitted for repairs are here:
> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/importation-eng.html
>
> The actual letter of the law here:
> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-1-1-eng.html
> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-2-3-eng.html
> https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d8/d8-1-1-eng.html
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 15:35, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> I am interested to know more about this CDN Luxury Tax on US boats here
>> in Canada for a period of time.  I can't find anything on the CDN Govt
>> websites on the law.
>>
>> Do you have a source/ website, anything I can use to get started on
>> finding out the specifics?
>>
>> Anything would help.  Thanking you in advnace.
>>
>> Robert Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2022-01-12 5:16 p.m., Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> There’s also a newish Canadian law that taxes US boats if they are in
>> Canada for more than a short amount of time. It has put several yards out
>> of business, including a friend in NS who used to work on and store a bunch
>> of US boats very winter.
>> It put the kibosh on my plans to cruise to Bras D’or one summer, leave
>> the bot and then cruise Newfoundland the next summer.
>> Andy
>>
>>
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 26 Beacon Hill
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> On Jan 12, 2022, at 14:47, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> When the US imposed the luxury tax in the 90's or whenever, it put 17,000
>> boat builders in the unemployment line.  Luxury car salespersons also
>> suffered. Legislators and bureaucrats are woefully ignorant of the law of
>> unintended consequences.
>>
>> Did it result in increased

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The "short amount of time" Andrew refers to is one full year (12 months).
The ``newish" law Andrew referred to has been on the books for at least 20
years ( I think since the fall of 1998) but has been spottily enforced. In
theory, US boats are not supposed to overwinter (stay longer than 12
months) in Canada without being legally imported and paying duty. But
there’s an exception. If a boat needs repairs, it may stay—and the repairs,
maintenance and storage of such yachts has been the core business of Henry
Fuller of the Cape Breton Boat Yard in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. And though the
necessary “repairs” may not have been very extensive, customs officers have
never been very exacting about the matter.

For many years quite a number of American boats spent years on end in
Canada without being officially imported, using this loophole that allowed
the boats to remain here if "major overhaul" and other large shipyard
related jobs were being done to them.  The intention of this rule was to
allow shipyards to bid on large projects without having to worry about
import duties if the job stretched out beyond 12 months. Legitimate large
repairs can be extended beyond 12 months, up to as long as four years (48
months) if required, and permission for the extension(s) is granted.

This loophole was being abused as many of these boats were really just
having light seasonal maintenance done.  Henry Fuller made a public issue
of it back in the fall of 2013 and so drew the attention of the government
agency tasked with enforcing the law, forcing their hand so enforcement
increased as a result.

Some coverage of Henry's complaints are here:
https://www.oceannavigator.com/bad-news-from-baddeck/

Here is another view:
https://contrarian.ca/2013/09/06/how-the-feds-are-killing-a-77-year-old-cape-breton-business/

Here is a link to the actual rules and information for travellers (note the
wording on that page has not needed to been changed since 2014):
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/menu-eng.html

Information about the length of time permitted for repairs are here:
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/importation-eng.html

The actual letter of the law here:
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-1-1-eng.html
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-2-3-eng.html
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d8/d8-1-1-eng.html

Ken H.



On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 15:35, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andrew,
>
> I am interested to know more about this CDN Luxury Tax on US boats here in
> Canada for a period of time.  I can't find anything on the CDN Govt
> websites on the law.
>
> Do you have a source/ website, anything I can use to get started on
> finding out the specifics?
>
> Anything would help.  Thanking you in advnace.
>
> Robert Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-01-12 5:16 p.m., Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> There’s also a newish Canadian law that taxes US boats if they are in
> Canada for more than a short amount of time. It has put several yards out
> of business, including a friend in NS who used to work on and store a bunch
> of US boats very winter.
> It put the kibosh on my plans to cruise to Bras D’or one summer, leave the
> bot and then cruise Newfoundland the next summer.
> Andy
>
>
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jan 12, 2022, at 14:47, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> 
> When the US imposed the luxury tax in the 90's or whenever, it put 17,000
> boat builders in the unemployment line.  Luxury car salespersons also
> suffered. Legislators and bureaucrats are woefully ignorant of the law of
> unintended consequences.
>
> Did it result in increased tax collections?  Not really.  As it only
> applied to new yachts bought in the US, rich folks simply bought yachts in
> Europe and brought them home, as I recall.
>
> Other anecdotal laws we seem to forget: the U shaped curve (governs
> efficiencies of volume), the 95% rule (it's easy to pick up the first 95%
> of that pound of sugar you spilled).  And there's always the law above them
> all, Murphy's Law.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 1:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I know I should just get back to work, but this is a very thought
>> provoking Bill about to take place,
>>
>> and it is like watching a slow motion train wreck.
>>
>>
>>
>> The American Version of the 90’s may not have been what completely killed
>> C, but it certainly guaranteed it.
>>
>>
>>
>> What do they say, “Those who do not remember the mistakes of the past are
>> condemned to repeat them in the future” ?!
>>
>> It’s been about a generation, long enough to forget, I guess. And Canada
>> has a lot to lose.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready (2nd try)

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On 1/14/2022 12:35 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:

Finally – here is the link to order the C Cutting Boards --
http://cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/

If you find problems with the site, please let me know ASAP.  Thanks.

Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
Stu


On Fri, 14 Jan 2022 at 23:19, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I did not see a link to the order form or payment platform. Is it too late
> to order 10x14 with Oh Boy name?
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33-2
>
> On Fri, Jan 14, 2022, 12:50 stu--- via CnC-List, 
> wrote:
>
>> I think the PayPal problem has been resolved. Try Again.
>>
>> Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Same result, I tried twice, and both time I got:

Thank you for your order.
Once we have received confirmation of your payment,
your order will be shipped.
Failure


I wanted to add a donation while I'm at it so I sent some money to the
link: PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks - Stu

Hope that isn't too confusing Stu.

Ken H.

On Fri, 14 Jan 2022 at 14:06, schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Stu,
>
> Tried the source using Paypal.  Got a "Failure" response.  If you add it
> to the Chandlery page, I'll add a contribution as ell.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 1/14/2022 12:35 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Finally – here is the link to order the C Cutting Boards --
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/
>
> If you find problems with the site, please let me know ASAP.  Thanks.
>
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34/36 Boat reviewed in Sailing magazine

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I would like to see it too, please.

Ken H.



On Thu, 13 Jan 2022 at 19:53, Allen Miles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck,
>
> I would like to see that article.
>
> Allen Miles
>
> On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 8:11 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> FWIW, there is a nice used boat review of the C 34/36 in the 2022
>> Jan/Feb *Sailing* magazine.
>> If anyone is interested, I can share a copy of the article.
>>
>> Chuck S
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodger

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have a friend with a "Natty" dodger, made by Genco in Ontario.  It was
purchased for his C 35 Mk.1 sight unseen.  I helped install it when it
arrived.  It fit perfectly, once we figured out exactly where it needed to
be installed.  He's had it for years now with no issues.

...so, if Genco have a pattern, and I expect they do for the C 37+, it
should fit with no issues.  Joe's comments on sending all measurements you
can is a good one though, in case your boat differs from the pattern bot in
boom height, or some such thing.

Ken H.

On Mon, 10 Jan 2022 at 14:57, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Genco dodger. It is now 21 years old! Genco does good work, but 
> **remote
> control canvas work** is difficult! I had some issues that were
> eventually resolved, caused by my C 35 not being identical to the one
> they found near them to take measurements from. I would make sure and send
> detailed measurements of everything you can think of including boom height
> at anchor and underway (whichever is lower).
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 8, 2022 9:47 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Dodger
>
>
>
> Genco is good. They can probably make a California dodger for any C
> designed boat
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodger

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

We have a dodger on our 37+ (actually a 37XL).  We're quite happy with our
dodger, it is tall and roomy but doesn't get in the way.  It has one top
panel, and five window panels (one large front window panel, two front
corners with windows, and two sides with large windows).  The front panel
zips open, or comes off completely, as do any or all of the other panels.
All panels can come off and the top panel and frame still stays in
place, if that is what you want, or you can fold it all down.  We tend to
put it on for the summer and just leave it up all the time as it doesn't
cause any issues getting up or down the companionway, and no issues sailing
the boat.  We don't even bother to take it down wehn racing for evening
races.

The side panels have large pockets sewn on the insides, below the windows.
We use these for all kinds of stuff, books, binoculars, phones, etc.

There is also an extra panel that zips on the back of the dodger and
extends to the backstay to provide sun and rain protection to the cockpit,
but that can't be used with the boom sheeted in as it gets in the way of
the main sheet and traveller.  We use it while running downwind on long
runs, and use it at anchor if we are expecting rain or too much sun.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pMGCqocwBVmCuBvy7

It was built by Eau Vent LM Inc. in Quebec but he doesn't seem to still be
in business.  He may have a pattern he might share.  He speaks french, his
english is Ok, but not great.  They do (did?) really good work. Tel. 418
847-9801

Ken H.

On Fri, 7 Jan 2022 at 21:33, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Any recommendations / specs for a dodger for a C 37+?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 - backup charts?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the "Travel Log" Martin, great read, sounds like it was quite a
trip.

Happy New Year!

Ken H.

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 at 22:02, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Regarding electronics failing when needed most; a sea story:
>
>
>
> Back in 1994 I was hired as the USCG licensed and celestial trained
> navigator for a late November delivery from Seattle to Newport Beach Calif.
> (I also had my own sextant as required by the owner’s insurance company).
> The pro skipper and I had sailed together offshore in the past.  At least
> one of the crew had been fishing/crabbing in Alaska. The owner’s “party”
> included a guy from Idaho who likely had not spent any time on boats
> smaller than cruise ships.
>
>
>
> The boat was a 70’s era Swan 65 ketch that had recently completed a refit
> in Seattle.  The Rich Boat Owner (RBO) had been a CEO of a large
> engineering/construction company, recently retired.  As such he would not
> listen to us lowly crew about how unwise it was to venture off the northern
> US West Coast in late November. He had hired a pro weather router and
> believed the forecast of steady 20/25 with gusts to 35 for the first few
> days.  Also, he had great confidence in the newly installed desk top
> computer based navigation software.
>
>
>
> As we departed Seattle, while the RBO’s party was enjoying a cool but
> pleasant Puget Sound afternoon having lunch in the cockpit we, the hired
> crew were busy lashing down everything on deck and stuffing rags into the
> Dorade vents knowing full well how quickly conditions deteriorate as we
> head NW out the Straits of Juan de Fuca then SW once past Cape Flattery.
>
>
>
> Fast forward +-130 miles as we are close reaching SW with a #3 headsail
> and a full main in a TWS of +-20 knots with a boat speed of +-8 knots most
> of the RBO’s party have retired for the night and a watch system
> established. My 2000hrs to 2400hrs watch went OK but the wind was
> increasing. During the next watch the wind increased into the 30’s range.
> With the increased wind/seas the bow was diving into the seas (100KLB
> displacement at 8+ knots boat speed) and occasional green water was
> coursing down the deck.
>
>
>
> Sometime into my off-watch I woke up and observed the skipper putting on a
> survival suit.  I overheard the RBO ask “is there something I should know?”
> and the skipper reply he needed to go forward a secure the anchor that had
> sheared the ½” SS retaining pin and was dragging out chain. (AKA ”blowing
> the dogs off the chains”) Conditions continued to deteriorate.
>
>
>
> By late in the afternoon near the start of my next watch the wind had
> built into the 40’s well exceeding the RBO’s weather router’s forecast.  It
> seemed from the VHF weather forecasts several lows had combined and
> deepened significantly. (Maybe today they would call it a “bomb” cyclone).
> When tucking in another reef in the brand new mainsail the plastic slides
> began to fail allowing the luff to separate from the mast.  It was decided
> to furl the main to prevent further damage. Now the #3 is the only sail
> set. (Experienced Ketch sailors are probably asking “why not set jig and
> jigger?” AKA mizzen and staysail.  IIRC the skipper considered it earlier
> but did not want to send someone forward to rig/set the staysail.)
>
>
>
> To give an idea of conditions aboard, several of the hired crew were
> staying in their bunks claiming seasickness or hypothermia.  The poor guy
> from Idaho was very seasick and hugging the forward head calling loudly for
> ‘Ralph and his Buick”.  The forward head was in a bit of a passageway. As
> the door swung open I could see the guy in his prone position around the
> toilet as a jet of seawater shot down through a Dorade vent and hosed off
> the back of his head. At least it cleaned him up a little. About this time
> the RBO stated “take me back to Seattle…”.
>
>
>
> As we were now over a 100 miles SW of Cape Flattery we needed to gybe to
> gain our course back to Cape Flattery. During the gybe the #3’s clew
> failed.  This turned out OK as under bare poles we were making 6 to 7 knots
> on the approximate course.  Now the wind was steady around 60 knots (maxed
> out the analog wind speed display) gusting higher.  The rain and spray
> filled the air making visibility poor. (It was blowing so hard when I went
> to pee off the leeward mizzen shrouds the negative air pressure/vortex
> behind my body cause the pee to go straight up. Thanks be to Mr. Musto for
> great foul weather gear.)
>
>
>
> As navigator I ducked down the nav station to plot out the exact course
> and determine the distance, looking forward to using the easy squeezy
> navigation software. Naturally the sea and rain water had caused the
> computer to shut down, permanently it proved later. So, now I have a hand
> held GPS (Magellan 5000 DLX) that I was very familiar with, paper charts,
> depth sounder, and a Furuno RADAR. The paper charts as a backup 

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

That's my understanding, SeaTalk NG is "NMEA 2000", but with a couple of
extra wires so SeaTalk NG can also speak to the older SeatTalk (not NG)
instruments, so just an adapter is required to convert to NMEA 2000.  Info
here:
https://panbo.com/finally-raymarine-seatalk-ng-to-nmea-2000-backbone-adapters/

Ken H.

On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:21, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred will need to jump in, but what I recall is SeaTalk NG **is NMEA 2000**
> more or less, you just need to adapt the physical connections to each other.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 30, 2021 9:17 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Likely a question for Fred Street
>
>
>
> Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine
> a65 multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network
>
>
>
> Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna
> splitter.  Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and
> Nema2000 connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.
>
>
>
> A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60
> instruments. Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs
> so do not believe this model has the Nema 0183 wiring
>
>
>
> How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so
> that I can see AIS targets?
>
>
>
> Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into
> SeatalkNG backbone?
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#
> 
>
> That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.
>
>
>
> Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and
> separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the
> Nema 2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the
> a65 is also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?
>
>
>
> This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The keel on it now is the keel that has been on it for at least the last 10
or 15 years.  I have photos of it from when it was for sale in Hamilton
Ontario about that long ago and it had the keel that is on it now.

Ken H.

On Wed, 8 Dec 2021 at 16:27, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And the keel on it don’t look like the keel in the drawring above it.
>
> It looks eerily similar to the keel of a Beneteau 40 First.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 08, 2021 2:02 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale
>
>
>
> That is a very unique C 37R.  It was the 14th 37R built, called Wave
> Trane, and it had quite a number of factory modifications to make it
> stronger and stiffer than the usual C 37R.  As an example, all
> bulkheads were tabbed to the deck from below, not usual for the 37R.  There
> are a set of drawings at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston,
> just for that boat.
>
>
>
> It also has a weird looking one off custom keel designed by Britton Chance
> Jr., designer of America’s Cup Boats among other things, which explains why
> there are so many keel bolts.  Some info here:
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/boat-design-c-37r-designer-robert-ball.html
>
>
>
> Some of the links there, to download the drawings, aren't working just
> now, Google changed something.  I'll see if I can get that linking cleared
> up this evening.
>
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 7 Dec 2021 at 23:07, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A friend of mine who sails with me on my C 29-1 has seen this boat and
> may be interested.  Anyone got any comments to make that would be helpful
> to him.
>
>
>
> He's here in San Francisco and the boat is in BC so that's one problem
>
>
>
> 1989 C 40R Plus 37R Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld
> <https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1989-c$c-40r-plus-37r-7966909/>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Ian Matthew
>
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
>
> San Francisco Bay
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

That is a very unique C 37R.  It was the 14th 37R built, called Wave
Trane, and it had quite a number of factory modifications to make it
stronger and stiffer than the usual C 37R.  As an example, all
bulkheads were tabbed to the deck from below, not usual for the 37R.  There
are a set of drawings at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston,
just for that boat.

It also has a weird looking one off custom keel designed by Britton Chance
Jr., designer of America’s Cup Boats among other things, which explains why
there are so many keel bolts.  Some info here:
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/boat-design-c-37r-designer-robert-ball.html

Some of the links there, to download the drawings, aren't working just now,
Google changed something.  I'll see if I can get that linking cleared up
this evening.

Ken H.



On Tue, 7 Dec 2021 at 23:07, Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A friend of mine who sails with me on my C 29-1 has seen this boat and
> may be interested.  Anyone got any comments to make that would be helpful
> to him.
>
> He's here in San Francisco and the boat is in BC so that's one problem
>
> 1989 C 40R Plus 37R Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld
> 
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I think the best trick is to use two powerful magnets, one inside, and one
outside.  Move the inside magnet and the outside one will follow.  Move the
inside one to the lowest spot you can get to, where you want the garboard
drain to be, and the magnet outside will show you where to drill the hole.

Ken H.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 17:50, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.
> Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas
> Bill Walker
>
> On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this?
> Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat
> through the mast
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I sand the prop and shaft lightly with emery cloth, so maybe 100 grit and
then spray it on lightly to cover.  The prop still had full coverage when
we hauled out Friday.

Ken H.

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 10:52 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Ken- Sounds interesting.  How did you prepare the prop and shaft for
> painting?  Do you strip and repaint every year or just add a new coat?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 31, 2021, at 10:27 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> RUST-OLEUM makes a GALVANIZING COMPOUND SPRAY which is a 93% pure zinc
> coating. I can get it at the local hardware store.  We've used it the last
> couple of seasons. The boat comes out with the zinc paint still on
> the prop, and no growth whatsoever.  Only about 45 hours on the engine this
> season though.
>
> "Instantly galvanize metal surfaces to protect them from corrosion with
> Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing Compound Spray. This 93% pure zinc
> coating applies a galvanized film with cathodic protection, which resists
> rusts, scratches and chips."
>
>
> https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/galvanizing-compound-spray/
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Tue, 26 Oct 2021 at 10:09, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Petit sells one.  Probably more expensive but effective too.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 8:59 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks. Is that the one that works. I had a ton of little white barnacle
>>> on my prop and prop shat at haul out. I don’t think the prop would have
>>> driven the boat. I had to get a tow to the marina for hail out because of
>>> another reason ( did not get my wet exhaust fixed in time) so I don’t know
>>> for sure if I could got there with auxiliary power. I am anxious to try
>>> zinc paint next season
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 7:10 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Krylon makes a zinc galvanizing paint that you can find on most
>>>> hardware store spray paint shelves.
>>>>
>>>> Andrew Burton
>>>> 26 Beacon Hill
>>>> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>>>> Newport, RI
>>>> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>>>>
>>>> USA
>>>> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>>>>  02840
>>>> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>>>>
>>>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>>>> +401 965-5260
>>>>
>>>> On Oct 26, 2021, at 06:06, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and
>>>>> shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop
>>>>> and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m
>>>>> sold.
>>>>>
>>>>> Al Liles
>>>>> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
>>>>> Vancouver BC
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> 
>>>>>
>>>>> Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint
>>>>> on stainless and bronze running gear;
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)
>>>>>
>>>>> Legacy III
>>>>>
>>>>> 1982 C 34
>>>>>
>>>>> Noank, CT
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>>>>> *Sent:* Mo

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

RUST-OLEUM makes a GALVANIZING COMPOUND SPRAY which is a 93% pure zinc
coating. I can get it at the local hardware store.  We've used it the last
couple of seasons. The boat comes out with the zinc paint still on
the prop, and no growth whatsoever.  Only about 45 hours on the engine this
season though.

"Instantly galvanize metal surfaces to protect them from corrosion with
Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing Compound Spray. This 93% pure zinc
coating applies a galvanized film with cathodic protection, which resists
rusts, scratches and chips."

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/galvanizing-compound-spray/

Ken H.



On Tue, 26 Oct 2021 at 10:09, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Petit sells one.  Probably more expensive but effective too.
>
> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 8:59 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks. Is that the one that works. I had a ton of little white barnacle
>> on my prop and prop shat at haul out. I don’t think the prop would have
>> driven the boat. I had to get a tow to the marina for hail out because of
>> another reason ( did not get my wet exhaust fixed in time) so I don’t know
>> for sure if I could got there with auxiliary power. I am anxious to try
>> zinc paint next season
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 7:10 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Krylon makes a zinc galvanizing paint that you can find on most hardware
>>> store spray paint shelves.
>>>
>>> Andrew Burton
>>> 26 Beacon Hill
>>> 
>>> Newport, RI
>>> 
>>>
>>> USA
>>> 
>>>  02840
>>> 
>>>
>>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>>> +401 965-5260
>>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2021, at 06:06, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and
 shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop
 and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m
 sold.

 Al Liles
 SV Elendil, C 37/40+
 Vancouver BC


 On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 

 Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint
 on stainless and bronze running gear;





 John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)

 Legacy III

 1982 C 34

 Noank, CT







 *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
 *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
 *To:* Stus-List
 *Cc:* Neil Andersen
 *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again



 I use Petit prop paint with good results



 Neil Andersen

 1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire

 Rock Hall, MD 21661
 --

 *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
 *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
 *To:* Stus-List
 *Cc:* Dean McNeill
 *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again



 First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC,
 as that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A
 good friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good
 results.



 I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and
 it has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax
 NS and it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a
 little green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked
 with barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where
 it was applied!



 Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop)
 with bottom paint?



 Dean


 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
 with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu

 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
 with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>> --
>>> Sent from Gmail 

Stus-List Re: Electric Bilge Pump

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

Did your pump work on "Manual" in the past?  Meaning it is wired
correctly?  If so, the "Manual" position on the switch just bypasses the
float switch so there must be a break in that circuit from the switch to
the pump somewhere, perhaps a corroded connection.  Start with a
voltmeter (or a test lamp) on the back of the switch to see if there is
power at the terminal on the back of the switch for the "Manual" side when
the switch is in "Manual".  If so, then follow the wire to the next
junction and test it there., and so on.  If there is no power at the back
of the switch in "Manual, but there is power on teh "Auto" side when in the
"Auto" position, then your switch is bad.

Hope this helps.

Ken H.

On Sun, 17 Oct 2021 at 10:51, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My electric bilge pump has 3 settings, Auto (with a float to activate),
> Off, and Manual.  I turned on the Manual setting and the pump didn't
> come on.   It does work in the Auto settingif I fill the bilge to
> lift the float or raise it by hand, the pump works.
>
> Since and I am no electrician, any ideas where to look for the problem?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: crank handle for roller furling boom on a 30 mk1

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Or Google "4 point socket"

Ken H.

On Thu, 23 Sept 2021 at 16:55, andrew macLean via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’d love to use something more like a socket. I’m not familiar with 12
> point sockets. I’ll go look at google now. Thanks!
>
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 12:41 pm, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Or would a 12 point socket work?
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021, 3:35 AM Bob Tallman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Great toy store indeed.  Make sure to keep the length to a minimum to
>> avoid too much rocking.
>> For grins regarding the size, is it 7/16, or is it 1/2?
>> Just thinking if the measurements are in line with a ratchet drive, the
>> square stock could be just a double ended female and use a ratchet drive.
>> A socket will fit over the square shaft, and then you can use a standard
>> setup to crank the boom.
>>
>> Who is the manufacturer of the furling boom?
>> Picture or two of the interface in question?
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 9:57 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Go to mcmaster.com and order a piece of square tubing the correct
>>> size.  When you get it, drill holes through one end and put a screwdriver
>>> or long bolt through it.  Use it to square up the boom.
>>>
>>> https://www.mcmaster.com/square-tubing/
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 6:29 PM andrew_m--- via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> We recently purchased a 1974 C 30 mk1. Our boat has a roller furling
>>> boom, but didn?t come with the crank handle. Does anyone know where I can a
>>> get a crank handle for the roller furling boom on a 1974 C 30 mk1? have
>>> one I can borrow (we're near Victoria BC)? or know of another tool that'll
>>> work in place of the original crank handle? Our boom's stuck at about 30
>>> degrees from where it should be and I'd love to turn it back.
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
>>> Stu
>>
>> --
>> Regards,
>>
>> Bob Tallman
>> 631.387.6748
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 TRDK

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Graham,

I'm guessing you have already seen this Practical Sailor article?

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/cc-40-still-turning-heads

Ken H.

On Sat, 18 Sept 2021 at 10:08, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi!
>
> Any C 40 owners on the list willing to offer opinions on this model?
> There is one local to me that might be worth a look. The good, the bad,
> hidden things to look for?
>
> --
> Graham Collins
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Really, should there be a short or other electrical failure, the big source
of current that would heat up and burn up the wires and possibly set the
boat on fire, would be the boat's house or starting battery bank.  So the
fuse should be as close as possible to where the wires from the solar
panels tie into larger wires or bus bars (or the batteries if wired
direct to the battery bank).  As close as 6 inches if possible.

Ken H.

On Sun, 29 Aug 2021 at 19:19, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a simple question - the fuse is there to protect the wire; so, the
> fuse should be as close to the solar panel as possible, shouldn't it? Where
> would you put it? Outside, next to the panel? Or inside, as soon as the
> wire goes through the deck?
>
> I bet there are some rules of thumb.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
> Date: 2021-08-29 18:00 (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Another Solar question
>
> My Renogy MPPT controler calls for a 20A Fuse.  I have 2 100w semi
> flexible panels.  Output is often close to 18amps
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> s/v Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* cenelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 29, 2021 5:42 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* cenelson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Another Solar question
>
>
>
> I use a ~ 30 watt solar to keep my batteries topped off without using
> shore power even when it is available. It is wired directly to my start
> battery and my ACR keeps both batteries topped off.
>
>
>
> My question is should I put a fuse in the positive output from the solar
> controller—IIRC it has a MPPT controller—to prevent a disaster in case a
> short develops anywhere in the panel/controller/hook-up/ etc.?
>
>
>
> If so, about what size fuse?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> My question is should
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
>
> On Sunday, August 29, 2021, 4:39 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does your bilge pump run that much in a week to drain your batteries. Must
> be a lot of water getting in
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 29, 2021 at 4:35 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> So, I took the solar panels and the Bimini in for the hurricane that was
> coming least week. And I had to keep them off for the week because I
> couldn't get back to the boat, and the batteries went down to 11.4 I guess
> running the bilge pump all week. I put the panels back up and I'm getting
> the voltage out of them but the victron is not charging the batteries.
> Would this be an indication that the batteries charge has gotten too low
> and that the Charger won't start the charge?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Stu via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 8/29/21 12:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: C Email List 
>
> Cc: Stu 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous
>
>
>
> Good afternoon
>
>
>
> Don’t forget our next online/virtual rendezvous on Tuesday,
>
> Aug 31, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada).
>
>
>
> You must register in advance for this meeting:
>
>
> https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZUtdeGrpj0iGNCGFaM3Jukol37WHaa09Z9e
> 
>
>
>
> After registering, you will receive information about joining the meeting.
>
>
>
> Hope to see you there.
>
>
>
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
>
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks 

Stus-List Re: Reefing Hook(s) for CnC 30 Mk1

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our C 37 XL has one of these Schaefer Marine Universal Reefing Hooks at
the gooseneck, held on with the same bolt that goes through the gooseneck
fitting. We use the pin in the reefing hook to hold the tack of
the mainsail.

https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=4077

Ken H.



On Mon, 2 Aug 2021 at 13:58, Alexander Netherton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all ,
>
> Recently purchased CnC 30 Mk 1 does not have any reefing hooks.  A
> neighbouring similar CnC does.  Do  you know where I could purchase this
> fitting, or failing that, make an alternative reefing solution.  The
> previous owner said it was always on his to do list, but alas, he did not
> do it.
>
> Thanks, Alex,  Dulcibella, Nanaimo.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Adam,

We draw 8' 2" so you won't have any trouble at any anchorage we use.  Some
of our favorites in the Bras d'Or are (Click on the names for charlets):

Maskells Harbour <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/Maskells.pdf>
Johnstown Harbour
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/Johnstown.pdf>
Ross Pond <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/RossPond.pdf>
Clarke Cove (Marble Mountain)
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/ClarkeCove.pdf> Actually
MacDonalds Cove behind the marble sand bar at the north of the linked
chartlet.
Blues Cove (Orangedale)
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/BluesCove.pdf> We tie to the
wharf here.  check out the Museum at the old Train Station..
Little Harbour
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/LittleHarbour.pdf>
McPhee Islands <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/McPhee.pdf>
Washabuck River & MacIvers Cove
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/Washabuck.pdf> We go way up to
Campbells Cove and tuck in just to the north of red buoy AC12
Long Island <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/LongIsland.pdf> We
anchor behind the small sand bar.
Island Point Harbour
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/IslandPoint.pdf> we go right
to the head of the harbour, almost to the sand beach.
Otter Harbour <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/OtterHbr.pdf>

I don't know how much time you have.  You could also pop out the Great Bras
d'or and go up to:
Ingonish Harbour
<http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/SouthIngonish.pdf> We tuck
into Dunphys cove.
Neils Harbour <http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/NeilsHbr.pdf>

That will get you started.





On Tue, 3 Aug 2021 at 09:31, Adam Hayden  wrote:

> Ken any other suggestions for anchorages?  We were thinking Clark's cove
> over by Marble Mountsin and Macgaskills harbour on our way to Baddeck(then
> on the badeck waterfront for thurs night and sat) before making our way
> back down and home again
>
> I see you are in cape Breton so obviously know the lakes well
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> ----------
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 2, 2021 9:11:35 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> Hi adam,
>
> Have you been to the Crammond Islands yet:
> http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/Crammond.pdf
>
> from: http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sun, 1 Aug 2021 at 18:38, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> We are currently on a two week tour of the Bras D'or lakes in Nova Scotia
> sitting in an isolated anchorage enjoying cocktails in the cockpit.
> For those of you that cruise the lakes are probably one of the best
> cruising areas in North America.(well I am biased)
>
> We had a wicked sail yesterday hitting 9.8 as we surfed down a wave.
>
>
>
> Adam Hayden
> C 36
> State of Bliss
> Pictou NS
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> --
> *From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 6:20:08 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Korbey Hunt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> 65* and light winds here in Ketchikan, AK
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> --
> *From:* Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 11:14:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> Join the sweltering club. 103 heat index and 75 degree dewpoint. Add the
> solar radiation and melt.
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> > On Aug 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Our sailing days are gone for a couple months. Its running 95 + * and
> very iffy breeze or full blown gales. Cant wait for Fall
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7C404fa975d8aa49219b9108d955208e39%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637634420573961005%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=kGX%2FPyWgAUK%2BG1wP0gyN16VLPXYybLwDgSLv8JhATRI%3Dreserved=0
> Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

And there is no charge to pass through the locks, neither at the Canso
Straight or at St. Peters Canal.  And there are always a few staff at Canso
to help you through, 24 hrs a day, and staff to help at St. Peters during
opening hours, 7 days a week.

Ken H.

On Tue, 3 Aug 2021 at 08:10, Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jeff you are correct about St. Peters  , however tavelling from Pictou we
> also have the Canso Locks we have to go through.  :)
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
> --
> *From:* Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 3, 2021, 7:44 a.m.
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeff Nelson
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> I believe there is only 1 lock at St. Peter's (double gate, but one lock),
> and a swing bridge.
> There is another bridge at Iona to make it up through the narrows if you
> want to enter/exit
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_-3389080825135704867_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

The lake is connected to the North Atlantic by two natural channels; the
Great and Little Bras d'Or Channels which pass on either side of
Boularderie Island.  The great Bras d'Or is large enough for ocean going
ships such as smaller Cruise Ships and for  bulk (gypsum) freighters. The
southern tip of the lake is connected to the Atlantic Ocean via the St.
Peters Canal, two locks and a swing bridge to get in, first built for
shipping traffic in the 1860s.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Peters_Canal

http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/StPeters-C.pdf

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Great_Bras_d%27Or_(Seal_Island)_Bridge_(cropped).jpg

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

C 37/40 XL Salazar <https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html>

On Mon, 2 Aug 2021 at 10:19, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That does look pretty amazing – looks like two locks and a lift bridge to
> get in?
>
> Deep water?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 01, 2021 5:39 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Korbey Hunt; Adam Hayden
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
>
>
> We are currently on a two week tour of the Bras D'or lakes in Nova Scotia
> sitting in an isolated anchorage enjoying cocktails in the cockpit.
>
> For those of you that cruise the lakes are probably one of the best
> cruising areas in North America.(well I am biased)
>
>
>
> We had a wicked sail yesterday hitting 9.8 as we surfed down a wave.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Adam Hayden
>
> C 36
>
> State of Bliss
>
> Pictou NS
>
>
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> --
>
> *From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 6:20:08 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Korbey Hunt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
>
>
> 65* and light winds here in Ketchikan, AK
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> --
>
> *From:* Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 11:14:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
>
>
> Join the sweltering club. 103 heat index and 75 degree dewpoint. Add the
> solar radiation and melt.
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> > On Aug 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Our sailing days are gone for a couple months. Its running 95 + * and
> very iffy breeze or full blown gales. Cant wait for Fall
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7C404fa975d8aa49219b9108d955208e39%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637634420573961005%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=kGX%2FPyWgAUK%2BG1wP0gyN16VLPXYybLwDgSLv8JhATRI%3Dreserved=0
> Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi adam,

Have you been to the Crammond Islands yet:
http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/charts/Crammond.pdf

from: http://www.cruising-cape-breton.info/

Ken H.

On Sun, 1 Aug 2021 at 18:38, Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We are currently on a two week tour of the Bras D'or lakes in Nova Scotia
> sitting in an isolated anchorage enjoying cocktails in the cockpit.
> For those of you that cruise the lakes are probably one of the best
> cruising areas in North America.(well I am biased)
>
> We had a wicked sail yesterday hitting 9.8 as we surfed down a wave.
>
>
>
> Adam Hayden
> C 36
> State of Bliss
> Pictou NS
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> --
> *From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 6:20:08 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Korbey Hunt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> 65* and light winds here in Ketchikan, AK
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 1, 2021 11:14:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Checking the list
>
> Join the sweltering club. 103 heat index and 75 degree dewpoint. Add the
> solar radiation and melt.
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> > On Aug 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Our sailing days are gone for a couple months. Its running 95 + * and
> very iffy breeze or full blown gales. Cant wait for Fall
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=04%7C01%7C%7C404fa975d8aa49219b9108d955208e39%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637634420573961005%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=kGX%2FPyWgAUK%2BG1wP0gyN16VLPXYybLwDgSLv8JhATRI%3Dreserved=0
> Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anchoring hand signals

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I think this 2008 video of Bill Salvo's Hand Signals for Anchoring is a
good example of how stress free anchoring can be with a decent set of hand
signals.  Bill's are pretty intuitive I think.

Ken H.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7Z4a4nr92M

On Thu, 29 Jul 2021 at 21:34, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> When weighing anchor I usually work the foredeck.  I simply use my arm to
> match the angle of the rode.  If the rode is on the port side of dead
> ahead, I use my left arm.  Starboard, I use my right arm.  The Admiral
> drives and can easily see where the rode is by watching my arm.  As my arm
> gets more vertical she shifts to neutral.  I can also hold my arm up with a
> clenched fist for neutral.
>
> When anchoring, I just point to where I want to drop the hook and she
> drives there.  Again, arm vertical with clenched fist is "stop" or neutral.
> Come ahead is a hand motion with first finger pointing forward.  The
> frequency of movement indicates speed.
> Slow down is palm down with a "patting" motion.
> Astern is a hand motion with first finger pointing astern.  The frequency
> of movement indicates speed.
> Once hooked, I point astern and wiggle my finger rapidly to indicate for
> her to back down hard to set the anchor.
>
> I like to know the depth so I can do the "first hook" on my Fortress.
> Fortress recommends initially setting their anchor at 2.5 scope.  That is
> what I call "first hook".  Once hooked, we let out more rode to desired
> scope.
>
> I ask the Admiral for the depth by repeatedly moving my hands apart palm
> to palm.  This lets her know I want the depth.  She either yells it to me
> or uses her hands to tell me.  For instance, 15 feet is one finger followed
> by five fingers.
>
> We've used these signals successfully for years.
>
> I have another collection of hand signals for communicating with rednecks
> and powerboaters (especially party barge drivers) in anchorages.  These do
> not use the first finger, however.
>
> Anybody got any better hand signals?  For anchoring, that is.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Guess what the wings on the Boeing 777X are made out of...

While the composite wing is a first for the 777X family it is, in fact, the
fourth composite wing built by Boeing for a commercial aircraft after three
versions for the 787.

Boeing’s 777 was the first commercial airliner to incorporate composite
designs for structurally significant composite parts. Composites account
for 50% percent of structural weight of the more recent 787 Dreamliner, and
the 777X will have the world's largest aircraft wings formed from composite.

On Fri, 23 Jul 2021 at 20:02, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I won't get into an epoxy airplane. If it's not boeing. I'm not going.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> sv Rebecca Leah
> 1988 C LF39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/23/21 1:20 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , John Christopher <
> phygi...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
>
> LMAO!
>
>
> /John
>
> On Jul 23, 2021, at 1:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Next time I get in an epoxy-composite airplane on a hot day I am going
> to be nervous!
>
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2021 11:15 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeff Nelson 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
>
> Glad it ended well.
>
> Cheers,
>   Jeff
>
> On 2021-07-23 10:17 a.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Well, Adrian wins the Bronze Thunder Mug - I put a 90/130 watt
>
> soldering gun on the stud for about 3 minutes, put some Garr-Pike
> Vice-Grips on, JUST 2 THREADS showing to grab onto!
>
>
> I couldn't believe when I heard creaking noises as it reluctantly backed
> out!I was sure I was seeing things.  I was so happy I could about shit.
>
>
> Anyways, my mini-crisis averted, once again the list has pulled
>
> through - Thanks to all, for all the suggestions.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: eFlares in Canada

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This webpage is 3 years old but it does provide an email address at the
bottom you might try to see if they'll give you an update.

https://letstalktransportation.ca/electronic-visual-distress-signals-instead-of-pyrotechnic-signals

Ken H.

On Wed, 16 Jun 2021 at 20:51, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> This is a question to Canadian list members…
>
>
>
> Has anyone researched the use of electronic flares (e.g., Sirius C-1001)
> as a replacement for the pyrotechnic flares in Canada? So far, I found that
> they can be used, but that they do not _*replace*_ the need for the
> proper flares (6 or 12 of them depending on the boat length).
>
>
>
> I know that in 2014 there was a movement to influence the change in the
> Transport Canada rules, but I did not find anything that would indicate
> that the change took place.
>
>
>
> Of course, USCG accepts the eFlares as a replacement to pyrotechnic
> flares, but this does not make any difference here.
>
>
>
> I had a look and my flares expired, so I need to buy something. It would
> be that much easier if I could buy an eFlare which has no expiration date.
>
>
>
> If you know anything on that topic, please share.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek Dziedzic
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa, ON
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Gooseneck fitting source?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Looks like an 'Offshore Spars' gooseneck so try this one:
https://store.offshorespars.com/products/offshore-spars-1-2in-gooseneck-swivel?_pos=1&_sid=d778c22d9&_ss=r

Ken H.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2021 at 17:18, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our gooseneck fitting is starting to wear, and the holes in it where the
> bolt fits down the center vertically are starting to wear egg-shaped.  You
> can see a photo here:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
>
> Does anyone know where to get a new fitting?
>
> In the alternative, could I take it to a local weder and have it filled
> and re-drilled, or would you think that would be unwise for some reason?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insights,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 4 pointed star vector file?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd,

Ken H.

On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 10:58, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ken,
>
> I post links to the C list so that everyone can use it.
>
> Even Risch.
>
> It’ll be later today, though. Work stuff first :-(
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 24, 2021, at 9:54 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
> Hi Edd,
>
> I'd like to have a copy of that too if possible?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 09:45, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>>
>> I have Adobe Illustrator and can make that for you later today.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>>
>> On May 23, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> ‘Evening all.
>>
>> Does anyone happen to have a vector file of the old logo’s 4 pointed
>> star?   Getting new graphics and I thin this might be a cool addition.
>>
>> Many thanks.
>>
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 4 pointed star vector file?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I'd like to have a copy of that too if possible?

Ken H.

On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 09:45, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> I have Adobe Illustrator and can make that for you later today.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 23, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> ‘Evening all.
>
> Does anyone happen to have a vector file of the old logo’s 4 pointed star?
>   Getting new graphics and I thin this might be a cool addition.
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Dave 33-2 Windstar.
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have a reverse transom too but our Espar exhaust doesn't go through the
transom. It goes through the side of the hull back close to the transom.

Ken H.

On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:19, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with
> the exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom?
>
>
>
> The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust
> hose into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for
> water to build up at this elbow joint.
>
>
>
> Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Line question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yes.  One exception is that there is a school of thought that the traveller
should use something stretchy, like mountain climbing rope, to absorb the
shock of a jibe.  Apparently getting a piece of used climbing line
shouldn't be that difficult.

Ken H.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 16:25, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This question shows a terrible lack of knowledge but here goes:  To
> replace some running rigging like the downhaul, topping lift and traveler
> line, is a double braid like Sta-Set the normal product to use?
> I no longer race my own boat, so it's just what's needed for playing
> around.
> If I measured correctly, the traveler would be quarter inch and the
> downhaul would be 3/8in.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

3M makes a type of rubber wheel you put in a drill and use to rub off
adhesive lettering.  Apparently they work well.

Google "3M Stripe Off Wheel"  There are videos out there showing how they
work.  They use them at work to strip decals off municipal vehicles,
including police cars, before we auction them off.  Some of these vehicles
have had those decals on for more than 10 years and they come right off.
You can still see where the decals had been, but only because the original
paint is in better condition where the decals were, protecting it.

Ken H.

On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 16:18, Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Oh great and powerful list .  I need to remove some lettering (adhesive)
> to change my home port, etc.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 7:26:41 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double
> Bulkheads
>
> I had a look at that video - not a bad approach,  would add that it’s
> easier to layup the disks and other patches each onto a sheet of waxed
> paper then lift that into place rather than lifting the messy epoxy patch
> itself.  If you are making 4 patches, stack 4 sheets of waxed paper in your
> layupboard before you start.   Put the precut glass in the stack too, you
> avoid handling things with sticky gloves. It’s also easier to lay up
> multiple layers on the board/paper than doing one at a time.
> When I updated the instruments on Windstar I replaced two B displays
> with one ray marine, leaving one hole.  I elected not to fill the extra
> hole but made a plexiglass cover the same shape and footprint of the new
> instrument.  It’s ready should I wish to add a second display,  it looks
> fine to me and was a lot less work.
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Electrical%20and%20Electronics?updated-max=2020-09-01T06:50:00-04:00=20=5=false=1
>
> Remember also that epoxy will stick to polyester but the reverse isn’t
> true - should you wish to use gelcoat to finish the repair you should bear
> this in mind.  I’ve always felt that once you start painting the deck or
> mixing materials you were heading down a slippery cosmetic slope.
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 21, 2021, at 7:02 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Another option, if it makes sense both inside the boat and outside in the
> location where the instruments are coming out, is to install a small port
> (window).
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 at 19:25, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Glass over the outside hole, and hang a picture over the inside.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> Rebecca Leah
> 1988 LF39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/20/21 14:39 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randal Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads
>
> Listers-
>
> Grenadine is getting an instrument system update this year and, as part of
> that, I’ll eventually want to glass over previous instrument holes in the
> aft cabin wall.
>
> Last night I watched this video https://youtu.be/T4OHQDs8NKk, which is
> good, but seems to assume only a single bulkhead - i.e. the “liner” inside
> the cabin is not there, or is cut away (such as in the video) providing
> access to the inside of the fiberglass cabin wall.
>
> Does anyone here know how to neatly glass over the hole in both the
> exterior wall and the interior liner?  If there’s no good / easy / neat way
> to do it, I’ll follow the video above for the exterior wall, then just
> cover the hole in the liner with a screwed-on piece of teak.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Another option, if it makes sense both inside the boat and outside in the
location where the instruments are coming out, is to install a small port
(window).

Ken H.

On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 at 19:25, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Glass over the outside hole, and hang a picture over the inside.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> Rebecca Leah
> 1988 LF39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/20/21 14:39 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randal Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads
>
> Listers-
>
> Grenadine is getting an instrument system update this year and, as part of
> that, I’ll eventually want to glass over previous instrument holes in the
> aft cabin wall.
>
> Last night I watched this video https://youtu.be/T4OHQDs8NKk, which is
> good, but seems to assume only a single bulkhead - i.e. the “liner” inside
> the cabin is not there, or is cut away (such as in the video) providing
> access to the inside of the fiberglass cabin wall.
>
> Does anyone here know how to neatly glass over the hole in both the
> exterior wall and the interior liner?  If there’s no good / easy / neat way
> to do it, I’ll follow the video above for the exterior wall, then just
> cover the hole in the liner with a screwed-on piece of teak.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: turnbuckle lube

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I don't know if it is the best but I use Boeshield T-9 as lubricant for our
turnbuckles.

https://boeshield.com/marine/

Ken H.

On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 at 00:52, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Joel asked a good question.
>
> What's the best lubricant for turnbuckles?
>
>
>
> On 03/25/2021 6:42 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Should the turnbuckle be greased or oiled
>
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 5:03 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
> rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
> of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
> someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
> going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will depend on
> what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection is a
> challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on my
> 1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected so
> that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  One
> rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the end
> of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts
> because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.
> Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also
> the aluminum through bolts in the mast all had to be replaced which
> required custom machining of the ends to accommodate replacement stainless
> steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay and harken furler it came to
> ~$12k for all the parts and labor including setting up and tuning the rig.
> The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so I am hopeful that this
> will be good to go for many years to come.
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34 CB
> Lynn MA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C ceiling in forepeak

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

deckhead The underside of the deck
 above. The
inside of the boat is normally paneled over to hide the structure, pipes,
electrical wires. It can be in thin wood planks, often covered with a vinyl
lining, or in thin PVC or now even in fiberglass planks.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#D

On Mon, 8 Mar 2021 at 19:31, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Or “deck head”
>
> On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 7:25 PM dwight veinot  wrote:
>
>> What is “above deck”
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 3:42 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I think an boat “ceiling” is the overhead.
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Monday, March 8, 2021 12:03 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List C ceiling in forepeak
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> At the risk of having the terminology incorrect, I thought I'd share
>>> with the list my discovery of how the teak interior hull liner was
>>> constructed on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> --
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C ceiling in forepeak

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

That is what ceiling means on land.  Ceiling has a different meaning in a
boat.

ceilingPlanking attached to the inside of the frame
s or floor
s of a
wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself.
The ceiling has different names in different places: limber boards
,
spirketting
,
quickwork
. The
lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are
standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship.[21]

:359

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms

Ken H.

On Mon, 8 Mar 2021 at 15:43, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think an boat “ceiling” is the overhead.
>
> Joe
>
> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, March 8, 2021 12:03 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List C ceiling in forepeak
>
>
>
> At the risk of having the terminology incorrect, I thought I'd share with
> the list my discovery of how the teak interior hull liner was constructed
> on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb.
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Going by Sailboatdata.com there were 5 Baltics designed by C in the 1970's

  Model
  LOA   First Built
BALTIC 33  33.00 ft / 10.06 m
1975
BALTIC 37  37.00 ft / 11.28 m
1978
BALTIC 39  38.76 ft / 11.81 m 1977
( 74 built to 1983 )
BALTIC 42  42.43 ft / 12.93 m
1976
BALTIC 46  46.18 ft / 14.08 m
1973
BALTIC 51  50.92 ft / 15.52 m
1979

On Mon, 22 Feb 2021 at 08:03, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am fascinated by all the different places C designs ended up. Didn’t
> Baltic make a C designed boat?
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2021 11:20 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Doug Robinson 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer
>
>
>
> Actually they were over in the St Catharine Airport and functioned as an
> independent company. The Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club had them as a
> commercial account along with C, later Hinterholler Yachts.  Viking
> Yachts in Toronto also used C produced hull designs.  There is also a
> Dutch builder of motor yachts in Port Weller (the name of which escapes me)
> and I have never seen an add for their product, but they are gorgeous and
> they sell everything that they turn out.
>
> On 2/21/21 11:03 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote:
>
> If you look at the ad closely, it says "C designed" which isn't the
> same as C manufactured...perhaps Rob Ball can shed some light?
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark4: 1983 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596;
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> 
> To: 'Stus-List'  
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Sent: Sun, Feb 21, 2021 12:00 pm
> Subject: Stus-List C Motorsailer
>
>
> https://www.crusaderyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1982-aztec-nautilus-40-pilothouse-c-c-annapolis-maryland-7632888/
> 
>
>
>
> I had no idea C made these!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>   Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

http://nautilus-40-pilothouse.blogspot.com/

Ken H.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 13:07, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> After a quick search online:
>
> NAUTILUS 40 was built by Niagara Nautic/Aztec Yachts (CAN), Niagara-on-the
> Lake, Ontario, CAN
> Designed by: Henry Adriaanse in 1979
>
> A native of Holland, Henry Adriaanse worked for C Yachts in Canada
> beginning in late 1960's and stayed with the company until 1976, when he
> left to start his own design firm. According to his own account, he left
> the boat design profession in the early 1990's.
>
> https://sailboatdata.com/designer/adriaanse-henry
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 13:01, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> https://www.crusaderyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1982-aztec-nautilus-40-pilothouse-c-c-annapolis-maryland-7632888/
>>
>>
>>
>> I had no idea C made these!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

After a quick search online:

NAUTILUS 40 was built by Niagara Nautic/Aztec Yachts (CAN), Niagara-on-the
Lake, Ontario, CAN
Designed by: Henry Adriaanse in 1979

A native of Holland, Henry Adriaanse worked for C Yachts in Canada
beginning in late 1960's and stayed with the company until 1976, when he
left to start his own design firm. According to his own account, he left
the boat design profession in the early 1990's.

https://sailboatdata.com/designer/adriaanse-henry

Ken H.


On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 13:01, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> https://www.crusaderyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1982-aztec-nautilus-40-pilothouse-c-c-annapolis-maryland-7632888/
>
>
>
> I had no idea C made these!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken rod rigging attachment for babystay deck at keel - 37/40+

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

I haven't had this problem yet.  I may be able to provide a bit of info
though.

As you know, there are webs fiberglassed to the interior of the hull that
provide reinforcement.  These webs form a reinforcing grid that C
referred to as the 'Spider'.  These individual webs are generally shaped
like an inverted 'U' and are hollow.  I think, looking at the drawings I
have (they don't show this detail very well), there is a web running fore
and aft on the hull's centreline, from the transverse web that supports the
forward end of the mast step, to around the half height bulkhead that
supports the aft end of the forward berth.  I think the plate the rod is
attached to is glassed into the top of that web so you won't have to glass
to the hull to make the repair, just to the web (I think), which should be
easier to do.

Have a look at the 'Spider design' drawing at:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKcDd4ZlhWNGZzdmM/view

I think the lower end of the rod is shown as a short little line, rising
from that fore and aft centreline web.

https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

Another drawing that my be helpful:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKYTJxRDJBc3BvLWM/view

If we're lucky, Rob Ball may remember this detail, and may be able to let
us know if I am correct in my guess (or not).

Ken H.



On Tue, 16 Feb 2021 at 19:58, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ahh...   Of course.
>
> I had not thought of that.
>
> Have any of you had to do this repair, and do you know how the rod is
> connected to the keel stub?
>
> As a bit of background, the 1/4" stainless rod rig material is attached to
> the underside of the deck with a 1/4" x 1.5" x 3" stainless plate with two
> 3/8" stainless screws/bolts.   I am presuming a similar stainless plate was
> fiberglassed in place at the keel.  As of now, I can't really see it, but I
> will be able to get to it.  I am thinking I can grind it down a bit to get
> to clean fiberglass, get a replacement 1/2" threaded rod, tap a hole into a
> replacement stainless plate and get a welder additionally weld the rod in
> place so it doesn't move (untwist).  From there, fiberglass it in place.
>
> I can then use the existing rod and under-deck attachment.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> Is there any particular trick to the fiberglassing?  How many layers of
> cloth would you use?
>
> Thanks!!!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
> On Tue, Feb 16, 2021, 2:47 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> If you have turning blocks attached to the deck I would be careful, as
>> the rod counteracts the upward force of the halyards.  If they are attached
>> to the mast, I would think you are OK.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avg.com
>> 
>> <#m_6539851289630601913_m_6637486383092924218_m_-8953886778624034987_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 2:34 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I have a 1994 37/40+, which of course has rod rigging.  We were out
>>> sailing yesterday, and I had put on some babystay and backstay tension, but
>>> not a tremendous amount.
>>>
>>> When I got back to the dock, I found, down in the cabin that the rod
>>> that is just forward of the mast broke loose from the keel trunk.  This is
>>> a 6 ft. length of rigging that runs from the underside of the deck to the
>>> keel trunk to reinforce the deck at the aft end of the babystay track.
>>>
>>> The attachment at the keel failed due to rust, but I can't really tell
>>> completely how it attached.  There is a threaded rod that goes between to
>>> keel trunk and the turnbuckle for adjustment.  It seems as though it may
>>> have been threaded rod welded on to a stainless steel plate that was
>>> glassed in place on the top of the trunk.  It was the threaded rod that
>>> failed where it exited the fiberglass.
>>>
>>> Has anyone else had this fail?
>>>
>>> Do you know how the threaded rod was attached?
>>>
>>> How did you fix it?
>>>
>>> Finally, presuming I'm not putting on a lot of babystay tension, can I
>>> still sail the boat in benign conditions until I can get it fixed?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 1994 C 37/40+
>>> "Astralis"
>>> Madeira Beach, FL
>>> (847) 404-5092
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support 

Stus-List Re: Transporting

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Andrews Trucking Limited, they probably took your boat from the factory to
wherever it was first delivered when it was new. They are still at it and
are highly regarded.

https://www.andrewstrucking.com/

Ken H.

On Wed, 20 Jan 2021 at 17:07, Lee Goss via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> I'm hoping to do a fairly long passage in the early summer from Chicago to
> Toronto. Would anyone know of someone or a company that could collect my
> C 29 MK.1 from Toronto and drive it back to Chicago? I do not have a
> trailer for it.
>
> Many thanks for any help.
>
> Very best,
> Lee Goss
>
> S.V. Zelus
> C 29 MK.1
> Chicago, Lake Michigan
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: test

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hello Graham!  Test reply.

On Sat, 9 Jan 2021 at 22:24, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> testing!  A couple of replies would be appreciated (but don't y'all get
> carried away with it...)
>
> --
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: History help.....

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

A few years ago I bought all the Build Files for the C 37/40 series that
South Shore Marine could find for me.  I sent a few to owners but still
have quite a few of them in a box in storage.

If there is a 'Yes" under 'Build File' in this list, then I have your file
(unless I already sent it to you):
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/a-list-of-known-c-3740-boat-name.html

Ken H.

On Sat, 26 Dec 2020 at 16:11, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No, drawings didn’t meet the dumpster, the build files did which was the
> paperwork kept on each boat as it was built
>
> Rob Mazza did a pick through of the dumpster and pulled as much as he
> could fit in his car
>
> JK
>
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
> On Dec 26, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Great info
> Too bad the drawing met the dumpster
> On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:07 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sadly the build files that were at South Shore Marine met the dumpster.
>> Many drawings over time from George Cuthbertson, Robert Mazza and Tim
>> Jackett at Tarton Yachts have been transferred to the Marine Museum of the
>> Great Lakes in Kingston Ontario.
>>
>> The museum is currently in a temporary location so drawings may be
>> somewhat inaccessible but some have already been digitized and if you
>> Contact Doug Cowie there he may be of some assistance
>>
>>
>> JKC
>>
>> Motion Designs Limited
>> 647 990 7752
>>
>> On Dec 26, 2020, at 2:16 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Ted, when did you acquire the boat?  In the old days…….15 years ago, you
>> could have found the complete build file at South Shore Yachts in Toronto,
>> many of us did that just to keep the history of our boats intact.  After
>> around that date, the remaining files were transferred to a Nautical
>> archive museum also sign Canada  (someone on this list knows the exact
>> name) and subsequent efforts to obtain the files has met with varied
>> success.  Still worth a try.
>>
>>
>>
>> On the documentation topic, my boat (a1977 C 38MKII) was left unrenewed
>> for almost 15 years prior to my purchase.  The build file did have good
>> documentation, but the mortgage still left uncleared, was for a Bank in
>> Boston that had since gone out of business or probably merged with someone
>> else.  There is a Documentation service in Winchester MA , Marie is well
>> known for her skill at documentation and after about 4 months, she was able
>> to find where the bank went, get the mortgage cleared and then get the
>> Coast Guard to reinstate my documentation……….
>>
>>
>>
>> If you’re in that need, I wouldn’t hesitate to use them again.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Ron C.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, December 25, 2020 3:06 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* ted_reli...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Stus-List History help.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have knowledge of the 1981 40-2 named Magic Dragon. She was
>> ported in Ocean City N.J.   When we aquired her, she had been striped of
>> all paperwork and loose equipment. Name had been rrmoved. What little we
>> found out was had through USCG  Doc search. Number inactive.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any help History is interesting to know.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ted
>>
>> S/V Ten- Ten
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: test

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I got 5 different emails from the list today...   so you might not see this
one either ...

Ken H.

On Wed, 23 Dec 2020 at 18:24, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is this thing on?  I haven't gotten an email in days...
>
> --
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: KVH Sailcomp Display Needed

[Ken Heaton]

Hi Doug,

Let me know if you have no luck finding one in the USA.  I have one here
(in Nova Scotia, Canada) that hasn't been powered up in over 10 years so I
don't know if it will work or not.

Ken H.

On Sat, 5 Dec 2020 at 18:22, Doug  wrote:

> I'm reaching out to the list to see if anyone has a KVH Sail comp display
> they want to part with. A working unit would be preferred, however I can
> still use a unit with a bad display. If you have one available, let me know
> cost plus shipping. Thanks
>
> Doug Allardyce
> Bullet C 41
> ~~~_/) _/) ~~~
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Keel Bolt Sockets

[Ken Heaton]

Have a look here:  https://hrmfg.net/products/extra-deep-impact-sockets/

PART # Extra Deep Impact Socket DS-1-7/8x12x3/4″

NUT SIZE 1-7/8″

LENGTH 12″

DRIVE  3/4″

PRICE 97.95


On Fri, 27 Nov 2020 at 17:08, David Risch  wrote:

> So I have a 1 7/8”  with  ¾” drive socket.   Still not deep enough for one
> of the keel bolts.  Need a 3” internal dimension.   Looked around and deep
> sockets are not that deep.  Any suggestions as to sourcing?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> David F. Risch
>
> Managing Director
>
> Great Benefits USA
>
> 401-419-4650 - Direct Line
>
> www.greatbenefitsusa.com
> 
>
>
>
> *The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient
> specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of
> this message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender.
> If you received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and
> follow with its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not
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>
> *Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority.
> Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and
> virus-free. Unfortunately, full security of the email cannot be ensured as,
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>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: HIN on a 37+

[Ken Heaton]

If that one is no longer for whatever reason, there there is one hidden
below as well.  You have to take the port settee top off to see it
though, up close to the forward bulkhead.

Ken H.

On Fri, 20 Nov 2020 at 13:32, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Aft Stbd corner just below the fairlead.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, Nov 20, 2020, 12:30 Edd Schillay  wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Anyone know where the HIN is stamped on a C 37/40+?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution
>> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rub rail repair test

[Ken Heaton]

Hi Jim,

What year(s) separates "older" from "newer?"


I don't know the answer to that, sorry. The drawing I posted is from 1988.

Ken H.

On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 at 09:55, James Hesketh  wrote:

>
>
>  Ken Heaton wrote:
>
>> Dennis is correct of course, for older C's, but the newer C's have a
>> different arrangement for the rub rail which is replaceable without
>> unbolting the deck  There is a factory drawing of it at this link:
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9i7woy2Mit5AXV3A
>>
>
> What year(s) separates "older" from "newer?"
>
> I have a 1978 26' and from my casual observation of the existing I'd
> assume it's newer. It's a back-burner project, but eventually it'll need
> replacing.
>
> Years ago I had to replace rubber in a fleet of special-built 20-foot
> Persons for a disable sailing program here in Miami. I used a heat gun to
> warm 2 to 3-foot sections as I worked it into place. I think I'd do that
> over the boiling water method.
>
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C 26
> Miami, FL
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rub rail repair test

[Ken Heaton]

Dennis is correct of course, for older C's, but the newer C's have a
different arrangement for the rub rail which is replaceable without
unbolting the deck  There is a factory drawing of it at this link:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9i7woy2Mit5AXV3A

Ken H.


On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 at 09:12, Dennis C.  wrote:

> I'm not a novice when it comes to rub rails.  I've
> removed/replaced/repaired rub rails on several power boats.  Bill is
> right.  The rub rail on older C's is sandwiched between the deck and
> hull.  Replacement requires lifting the deck off the hull.  Not a job
> lightly undertaken.
>
> Even splicing in a short section would be more job than I want to tackle
> right now if a quick cosmetic fix works.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Tapered Stanchion with Support?

[Ken Heaton]

I think these are the right ones? (scroll down a bit)

http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

http://www.hollandmarine.com/

Ken H.



On Sun, 25 Oct 2020 at 18:45, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Anyone know a good source for a replacement tapered stanchion and angled
> support for my 37+?
>
> South Shore Yachts is out of stock and cannot get restocked for a month.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: hose removal

[Ken Heaton]

Thanks Joel, I'll be getting one of those.

Ken H.

On Thu, 15 Oct 2020 at 11:51, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> My mechanic carries one of these:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose-Removal-Tool/dp/B0050SFZBG
>
> (His may be a higher grade).
>
> Joel
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine oil drain hose

[Ken Heaton]

I've used one of these for the last 10 years or so.  Sucks the oil up
through the dipstick tube when the oil is still hot.

https://ca.binnacle.com/p3291/Pela-6000-Oil-Extractor-6-Litre/product_info.html

Works well, no issues.

Ken H.

On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 17:16, dwight veinot  wrote:

> I got the exact same engine and i use a drill pump attached to that
> flexible bottom drain to extract the used oil after it has got to operating
> temp.
>
> On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 3:46 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> wrote:
>
>> FYI,  My Universal M4-30 diesel has an oil drain hose attached to the pan
>> bottom with a brass end fitting with a threaded plug in the free end.  The
>> brass plug has a hole drilled through the square part that can be tie
>> wrapped to secure it safely.  I typically run the engine till warm and then
>> connect a hand pump to this hose and suck the oil from the sump.  It works
>> very well and I thought it was OEM.
>>
>> At home, I've added a short length of fuel rated hose to my rider mower
>> for the same convenience when draining the oil clear of the frame.  I plug
>> the end and tie wrap it to the frame.
>>
>> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution
>> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Ken Heaton]

Looks great Dennis!

Ken  H.

On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 20:34, Dennis C.  wrote:

> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.
>
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[Ken Heaton]

I think the older C's, from the early 1970's, used Bathroom Sink drains
like this for cockpit drains:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Lavatory-Sink-Grid-Drain-without-Overflow-in-Chrome-89463/205087828

Ken H.

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 at 20:18, Joel Delamirande 
wrote:

> I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30
> 1973
> There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the
> floor
> I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that
> possible
> Let me know where you guys shop
> Joel Delamirande
> Whistler 2
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Mega Hin

[Ken Heaton]

Hi Chuck,

As I understand it, your breakdown of this HIN looks correct to me, with
the 1978 Model Year, and the I indicator for month,  so built in April of
1978.

The model year usually changed in September, so a boat built between
September of 1977 and August of 1978 would have a 78 for the 1978 Model
year, even though it was built in 1977 or 1978.  This one seems to have
been built in I = April so the Model Year and Build Year would be the same,
1978.

Ken H.


On Thu, Oct 1, 2020 at 11:00 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Ken,
>
>
>
>
>
> OK, so correct me if I'm wrong, after reading your attachment explaining a
> 12 character HIN in this time period, the first "M" stands for Mega, "0020"
> means hull number 20, and the second "M" means model year to follow, "78"
> was the model year and "I" in this method means, April.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> What year was she built?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 10/01/2020 9:41 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The " M " is a fixed character indicating " Model Year Format " and never
> changes.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This is a HIN VERSION B. " Model Year Format ". 12 characters, in use from
> November 1, 1972 to August 1984.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Info here, scroll down a bit:
>
> http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Whats%20a%20HIN%20.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 1 Oct 2020 at 20:47, CHARLES SCHEAFFER <
>
> cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> My best guess is that the M is for Mega, built in 78 in "I" month which
> would be July?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 10/01/2020 5:18 PM Stu <
>
> s...@snghost.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: mega_hin]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Here is an image of the HIN on JohnKelly's Mega.  I had to resize it
> JohnKelly so it could be sent out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Stu
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
___

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Stus-List Re: Mega Hin

[Ken Heaton]

The " M " is a fixed character indicating " Model Year Format " and never
changes.

This is a HIN VERSION B. " Model Year Format ". 12 characters, in use from
November 1, 1972 to August 1984.

Info here, scroll down a bit:
http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Whats%20a%20HIN%20.htm

Ken H.

On Thu, 1 Oct 2020 at 20:47, CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> My best guess is that the M is for Mega, built in 78 in "I" month which
> would be July?
>
> Chuck
>
> On 10/01/2020 5:18 PM Stu  wrote:
>
>
> [image: mega_hin]
>
> Here is an image of the HIN on JohnKelly's Mega.  I had to resize it
> JohnKelly so it could be sent out.
>
> Stu
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: Propane Locker - C 30 MK1

[Ken Heaton]

Are you up to cutting a hole in one of the cockpit seats aft of the wheel
and building your own locker into that?  It is wasted space on the 35 Mk.1
as I remember.  You could put one of the skinny tanks in there I think,
with perhaps a cover made from the top you cut off the seat to make the
opening?  A 10 lb steel tank is only 9" in dia.

Ken H.

On Tue, 29 Sep 2020 at 07:53,  wrote:

> Any suggestions on how to best and, one hopes economically retrofit a 1975
> C 30 MK1 for safe LPG storage? Off-the-shelf lockers start in the $1k
> range and would consume more of a cockpit locker than I’d prefer to
> surrender. I’ve yet to see an off-the-transom approach that doesn’t rob
> from the elegance of the boat’s design. I know the safety regs, my question
> is around physical space.
>
>
>
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
>
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
>
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
> <#m_8620281692932439100_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: Toe rail mounted stanchion base

[Ken Heaton]

As Mike said: Holland Marine Products in Toronto

http://www.hollandmarine.com/CCfolder/CC001.html

Ken H.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2020 at 19:17, Mike Taylor  wrote:

> HMP Toronto
>
> Mike
>
> > On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Luke Wolbrink 
> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > Looking for a replacement for the cast aluminum stanchion bases that
> mount to the toe rail on my 1985 35-3. Anyone have any leads or extras
> gathering dust?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Luke
> > -"Zella" 1985 35-3
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: Email list upgrades

[Ken Heaton]

I'm using Gmail and for me  Stu's list emails went to spam for one or two
days and then back to normal.  No issues since.

Ken H.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2020 at 01:34, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I noticed after the upgrade that the security certificates started showing
> as invalid.  As I understand it, the only thing that that means from a
> security stand point is that there is no guarantee that the message is
> authentic and from the labelled sender.  Maybe the bad security certificate
> is causing everybody's emails to be sent to spam.  I'm using Gmail but as
> far as I can tell the Stu's list emails are not going to spam for me.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
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Stus-List Re: Tropical storm Teddy in NS

[Ken Heaton]

No damage at all at Ben Eoin Yacht Club on the East Bay of the Bras d'Or
Lake.

Ken H.

On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 at 12:54, Jeff Nelson  wrote:

> I DNF'ed my race last night due to lack of wind (Halifax).
>
> Generally, Halifax faired pretty well I think.  We had some storm surge
> covering the
> parking lot for a bit but no damage at Armdale Yacht club.  Not sure how
> others faired,
> but I didn't hear of any Nova Scotia clubs or boats suffering any damage.
>
> Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C 30 - 549
>
> On 2020-09-24 12:51 p.m., Marek Dziedzic wrote:
>
> How did you guys survive the Teddy in Nova Scotia? I hope you fared better
> than Dennis in Pensacola.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* Derek Kennedy
> *Sent:* 24 September, 2020 11:44
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Whale Gusher 10 bilge pump
>
>
>
> Derek Kennedy
> C 30 mk1- Tortuga
>
> Ballantynes Cove, NS
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
> <#m_6160525586776005753_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Re: Found memories

[Ken Heaton]

Where is Diversion's home port now Stu?

Ken H.

On Sun, 20 Sep 2020 at 19:44, Stu  wrote:

> Today, Gladys and I found our previously owned C – Diversion.  She is
> still in great looking shape and it doesn’t look like too many changes.
>
> Sure brought back a lot of memories.
>
> Stu
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: list upgrade question

[Ken Heaton]

I see the link to the Email Archive from the C Photo Album Home Page also
doesn't work (same url I think).

Ken H.

On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 at 06:53, SEAN CONNER  wrote:

> For many years I have been using the email archive site at
> https://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/ to review the
> discussions on this list.  Since the upgrade, this site does not seem to
> exist, so was just wondering if this feature will still be available
> somewhere.
>
> It really was a great way to access the content by data, author, thread,
> etc.
> Many thanks--dutifully subscribed since 1997...
> Sean Conner
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: Stus-ListOverheating-new installation

[Ken Heaton]

Actually, the area of a 1 1/2" circle is only 55% of the area of a 2"
circle, so the exhaust is only about half of what is required. Area = Pi x
Radius squared

A
=
π
r
2


3.14 sq.in.
=
π
1"
2

*1.7sq.in . *=
π
(.75")
2



On Mon, 14 Sep 2020 at 08:17, David Risch  wrote:

> Did you inquire of Westerbeke about reducing exhaust flow by 25%?  Sound
> like it may be a lot…
>
>
>
> *From:* Kevin Burke 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 10:32 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-ListOverheating-new installation
>
>
>
> I just replaced an old Westerbeke with a new/old stock Universal m3-20b.
> It fires up with no problem, runs smoothly atnd spits what seems to be the
> appropriate amount of water out of the exhaust, but I was testing it by
> idling it about 800 rpm and after 20 minutes or so it overheats to 200
> degrees and the overheat alarm goes off.  It has a new exhaust elbow and
> new impeller, no signs of corrosion anywhere, and only about 1.2 hours on
> the hour  meter.  It is about 20 years old, ordered for a swap but not
> used.  It was stored properly indoors and has fresh coolant.  I think I
> bled the coolant properly-there is an  overflow tank and a bleed valve on
> top of the thermostat, which is at the front high point on the engine.  I
> ran it with the valve open until there was a steady stream of coolant
> coming out.  My original thought was that there was air in the system or a
> bad thermostat.  I tried running it without the tstat and it did the same
> thing.  It seems hotter above the thermostat than on the sides below the
> head gasket.  Any thoughts?   The muffler is fairly new as well and I did
> not see any buildup in the pipe.  I had to install a fiberglass reducer
> from 2 inches to 1 ½ shortly after the exhaust elbow to feed it to the
> existing muffler.  Could it be excessive back pressure from the reducer?
>
>
>
> Kevin Burke
>
> Mark I 35
>
> Galesville, Md.
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under
the engine to raise it, something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4

Ken H.

On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
> I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my
> 1983 - 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said
> they needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am
> getting to back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic
> type but placed in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section
> rudder and motor Difficult
> Thanks!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V
> drive makes it that hard.
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck
> Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>
>
> Peter,
>
> My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s
> happiest around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it
> sounds like the hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in
> general with that diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I
> replaced the shaft, cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when
> purchased 4 years ago, vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably
> original.
>
> Someday…
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Cowenhoven 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>
>
>
> I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.
>
>
>
> I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
>
>  wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Source for Waltec parts in the US?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'm in Canada and I've replaced just the rubber washers on the Waltec
cartridges in the past with a standard size tap washer from the local
hardware store.

I've also changed the cartridges (at least two faucets in our house are
Waltec) but you don't need to if just the washers are worn or have hardened.

Ken H.

On Thursday, 20 August 2020, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My Waltec 12 galley faucet is getting a bit leaky and hard to shut off.
I know others have replaced their faucets but I don’t relish that project.
I would like to replace the cartridges, but Waltec appears to be a very
Canadian oriented brand and I don’t see a source that will ship to the US
reasonably.  Anyone know of a good place to buy parts here?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
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Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Are your existing faucets like one of these on this page:
https://scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_detail=140

Ken H.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2020 at 20:14, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 1995 36 has ‘triangular’ faucets for the galley and head sinks. These
> have the faucet handles joining the spigot at about a 45 degree angle.
>
> I’d like to replace them in plastic as they are showing their 25 year age
> with pitting, fading etc.
>
> I am reluctant to buy anything but a ‘triangular’ replacement since the
> supply connections may not ‘mate’ properly. Is my concern valid?
>
> I would prefer something in white plastic but am hesitant to buy anything
> if it won’t work—especially since removing/installing these faucets will
> not be easy given their locations.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitate to attempt to remove my faucets just to check whether
> they have ‘standard’ connections (or not!).
>
> Advice from the list would be appreciated before I ‘commit’ to this
> project.
>
> TIA,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Sunday, August 16, 2020, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Insurance Provider?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have a Cowan Policy through MCT Insurance in Yarmouth, NS.  Giving them
a call wouldn't hurt?

https://www.cowangroup.ca/home/personal-insurance/home-property/boat-insurance/


*Felicity Hobbs | CAIB*

Personal Lines Retention  |  *MCT Insurance – a Division of BrokerLink*

T: 902-742-3531 ext. 45642  |  F: 902-742-5822  |  felicity.ho...@mcti.ca

Brokerlink Inc.  |  396 Main Street, Suite 100, Yarmouth, NS B5A 1E9

Branch hours: Mon-Fri: 8:30 am-5:00 pm

Extended calling hours: Mon-Fri:  8 am-8 pm, Sat: 9am–4 pm

Visit us online: *BrokerLink.ca *  [image:
cid:image016.jpg@01D5C493.70113470]
 [image:
cid:image017.jpg@01D5C493.70113470]  [image:
cid:image018.jpg@01D5C493.70113470] 
 [image: cid:image019.jpg@01D5C493.70113470]
 [image:
cid:image020.jpg@01D5C493.70113470]


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 21:56, Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I‘m in process of purchasing a 1980 C 34 but I’m being held up by
> insurance provider.
>
> My broker (specializing in marine insurance) has sent the clean survey and
> all details to the insurance provider. Was supposed to be 2 days for
> approval… it’s now stretching into 4 days and we can’t get a response from
> provider. I can’t do a deal unless I know I can get vessel insured. Any
> insurers/brokers that you think are great and responsive so I can get this
> deal done?
>
> A little leery of trying the online quote-and-go options but maybe I
> should? Any good redo’s?
>
> I’m in Halifax, Nova Scotia if that matters.
>
> Dean___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Mast Head Light

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have an XL so the mast was built by Offshore Spars.  Our mast had this
Anchor Light from the factory: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7vdD6LvEpCYKMuD78

We have since replaced it with an Aqua Signal LED combined TriColour /
Anchor Light.

Ken H.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 09:43, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You're welcome!  Just be careful, I've heard some people have Hella lights
> not aqua signal.  I don't know if the Hella lights are aftermarket or not.
>
> Josh
>
> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 08:36 Rob Hamlin  wrote:
>
>> Great info thanks Josh
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2020, at 10:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> My original lights were all Aqua Signal Series 40.
>>
>> On my boat.  The original tri-color and anchor light were all in a single
>> masthead unit.
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVAHW0/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_wCkmFbVDBV65Y
>>
>> I replaced with 2 different LED bulbs.
>> Tri-color:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/
>>
>> Bow/stern/anchor:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
>>
>> I for the anchor light marinebeam makes an innovative product which has a
>> photo sensor.  It turns the anchor light off in the daylight.  This is what
>> I bought instead of the bow/stern/anchor link above.
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/
>>
>>
>>
>> The steaming light/foredeck light combo is an aqua signal 25.
>>
>> https://www.aquasignal.com.au/shop/masthead-topp/series-25-masthead-foredeck/
>>
>>  I initially replaced the bulbs.
>> Steaming:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-44mm-dimple-barrel-end-festoon-for-aqua-signal-navigation-lights-fs-44-30b/
>>
>> Foredeck:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
>>
>> Later, I ultimately replaced the entire unit with this:
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 9, 2020, 20:07 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>> To avoid two trips up the stick, know of a replacement LED bulb in kind
>>> for the mast head light?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Rob
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>>
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yes, absolutely, they should have a bolt passing through them and through
the mast.  One long bolt is fine, washers and a self locking nut work
well, the bolt doesn't have to be tight, just not loose. If you find the
strap holes are a bit too high to get the bolt through them and the mast
try releasing the tension on ALL your halyards and the holes should line up.

The halyards and other lines coming down the mast turn in blocks attached
to the mast collar casting (partners) to run back to your line stoppers and
winches.  This creates an upward force on the deck at the mast collar,
trying to lift the deck up.  The resulting load on the mast collar and deck
is transferred back to the mast by these straps.

The other rod is probably attached to the baby stay track (assuming you
have a baby stay.  It should be just snug, or perhaps have just a slight
bit of tension when the baby stay is slack.

Ken H.

On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 10:03, David Hayward via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
> Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless steel
> straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are bolted to the
> thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt hole in the bottom
> end almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose and should the hangers be
> bolted to the mast?
>
> Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end (in
> the v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and how to
> tune?
>
>
>
>
> Thx
> David
> https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Cozy Cabin Heater Install examples?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Did you consider the Dickinson Marine Newport P9000 Propane Fireplace ?
Was that one too expensive for your application?

The  Newport heaters is equipped with a flexible stainless double walled
vent pipe and a combination deckfitting/exhaust cap. Fresh air is pulled
from outside, through the outer pipe into the combustion chamber while
exhaust gas leaves the vessel through the inner pipe. The air from inside
the cabin is not being used for combustion so a fresh air vent is not
needed. Since this unit has isolated combustion, the exhaust gases are
being taken out via the chimney so no moisture is being created inside the
cabin.

It has an electric fan but the fan only draws 0.2 amps, is 12 volts.  You
don't need to use the fan on a low heat setting, only on medium to high
heat.

You do need a minimum of 20" of run for the chimney.

http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/newport-p9000-propane-fireplace/

http://dickinsonmarine.com/dm/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Propane-Heater-P9P12-Manual-2020.pdf


Ken H.

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 at 13:04, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
> I have purchased and I am planning my install of a Dickinson Cozy Cabin
> Heater (propane) on our C 30 mk II. We are not liveaboards, but we do use
> our boat year round here in the PNW and I miss being able to anchor on cold
> weekend nights due to a lack of an efficient heat source. Thus the Cozy
> Cabin. (Please save the safety lecture if you are so inclined as the
> fixture does have a low oxygen shut off and a flame out gas shut off. We
> have CO2 alarms, propane sniffer, and always have hatches cracked.)
> I am planning on installing it on the starboard side, forward bulkhead. I
> am plotting the location of the exhaust port and I think I am going to go
> more or less straight up and then angle to starboard so in theory, end up
> with the exhaust port co-planar with the cabin trunk. I welcome other's
> input however. I do not like drilling a hole in my cabin top, but it is an
> ~ 30 yr old boat and life is too short to stay in the marina! See pictures
> here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2cpqVEfyLZ2B8EoP6
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Steaming and Deck Light

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This one is reasonably priced and good quality:
https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-deck-and-masthead-navigation-light-mast-mounted/

If you want to spend more, there is this one:
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/

Ken H.

On Tue, 28 Jul 2020 at 23:38, Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
>
>
>
> I have a 1979 C 34. After a recent trip up the mast I discovered I
> really need to replace my steaming and deck lights. Any recommendations or
> suggestion appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Brian Morrison
>
> Baltimore, MD
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Salvage C 37+

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If it was Ocean Phoenix, then that was a 37R they were trying to sell (or
had just recently sold).  Dark blue hull like this?

https://svoceanphoenix.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/cc-37r-3.jpg

https://svoceanphoenix.com/2019/12/24/could-it-be-true-ocean-phoenix-is-for-sale/


Ken H.

On Sun, 19 Jul 2020 at 11:53, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think it was Phoenix.  Home port Portland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Peter,
>
> Did you happen to notice a name on this 37+? I sort of keep up a list of
> the 37+ out there and would like to mark this one as gone.
>
> Ken Heaton
>
> On Sunday, 19 July 2020, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> > Hello all
> >
> > Capt Jim's Marine Salvage and Nautical Antiquities open every Saturday
> 9:00 am till 3:00 pm.
> > Call capt Jim 207-838-9902
> > 326 Presumpscot St Portland ME
> > Open every Saturday 9:00 am till 3:00 pm or by appointment.
> > New England's largest Marine salvage superstore!
> > There was a 37+
> > They  are parting out due to running aground
> >  Aft starboard quarter just at water line large hole saw the complete
> steering quadrant seems much tighter access them my 40 ;
> > Keel missing
> > Did not see the mast
> >  stantions bow and stern rails looked good
> > Did not go inside
> > Hope this helps someone on the list if they need parts
> > Peter ocampo
> > 1983 40 aft cabin
> > Goonie Island
> > Portland.  Maine
> > Sent from my iPhone ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Salvage C 37+

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hello Peter,

Did you happen to notice a name on this 37+? I sort of keep up a list of
the 37+ out there and would like to mark this one as gone.

Ken Heaton

On Sunday, 19 July 2020, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
wrote:
> Hello all
>
> Capt Jim's Marine Salvage and Nautical Antiquities open every Saturday
9:00 am till 3:00 pm.
> Call capt Jim 207-838-9902
> 326 Presumpscot St Portland ME
> Open every Saturday 9:00 am till 3:00 pm or by appointment.
> New England's largest Marine salvage superstore!
> There was a 37+
> They  are parting out due to running aground
>  Aft starboard quarter just at water line large hole saw the complete
steering quadrant seems much tighter access them my 40 ;
> Keel missing
> Did not see the mast
>  stantions bow and stern rails looked good
> Did not go inside
> Hope this helps someone on the list if they need parts
> Peter ocampo
> 1983 40 aft cabin
> Goonie Island
> Portland.  Maine
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

59 (60 in September)



On Wed, 15 Jul 2020 at 11:42, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just under the wire--will be 76 in November.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 36 XL/kcb
> Greenville, NC
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Donald Kern via CnC-List 
> To: detroito91 via CnC-List 
> Cc: Donald Kern 
> Sent: Wed, Jul 15, 2020 12:29 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
>
>
> Jim
> You got me. Will be 77 in Nov.
> Don Kern
> Fireball C MK2
> Bristol RI
>
> On 7/14/2020 10:04 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List wrote:
>
> 77...might be the old winner
> Jim Schwartz
> SEA YA !
> 38 landfall
> Washington nc
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:
>
> 
> What is the youngest age in this group and oldest
> I’m 40
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>

-- 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

S/V Salazar - Can 54955

C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
C 37/40 XL Salazar <https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/salazar.html>
-- 
"Nice? It's the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned
forward for his stroke. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing --
absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in
boats."

"Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it
doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether
you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination
or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at
all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when
you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if
you like, but you'd much better not."
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

I'm pretty sure the forward sink won't drain very well, if at all, through
the thru hull the for galley sink drain.  We tried something like that a
few years ago and it just air locked and wouldn't drain.

A Forespar Marelon replacement sea cock won't cost vey much,  Why don't you
just have them replace it?

Ken H.

On Wed, 8 Jul 2020 at 15:43, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Edd,
>
> As it turns out, the quote on the damage to Astralis from the jetski is
> now just over $21,000 not including the dinghy, and the boat won't get in
> for repair until the 29th.
>
> During that time, I want them to redo the bottom and pull the forward sink
> seacock that is frozen and glass over it.  I plan on just having the
> forward sink drain into the bilge or tee it off to the galley sink drain.
> I will also have them replace the cutlass bearing.
>
> So, it might make sense to use that time to bring all the boards home and
> apply lonseal if I like it.
>
> Might as well try to kill as many birds at one time as possible.  :(
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 8, 2020, 2:08:26 PM EDT, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> LONSEAL, based in California. See:
> https://lonseal.com/products/product-details/line/LONMARINEsupregsupWOOD/
>
> I just need to hunt around for an installer so I can get a quote going.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2020, at 2:02 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I was thinking the same thing, Edd.  Where did you get your sample?
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar Hatches

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Len,

Check with these guys, you never know: http://www.hollandmarine.com/

This page: http://www.hollandmarine.com/budgetmarine4.html

Ken H.



On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 at 12:47, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking
> for the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn!
> That is an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll
> stop hinge kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they would
> provide the dimensional drawings for the repair kits. The answer was “sorry
> no, it is intellectual property”.
>
> I can use the old plastic trim piece as a mould to make a new part with
> fibreglass if necessary. If anyone has a suggestion on replicating the
> hinge kit parts using 3D printing, let me know, I have one new kit of each
> size left in the Crazy Legs inventory and I need to use it soon.
>
> Len
>
> Sent from my iPad
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>
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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The Mark 1 doesn't have the star and sword.  At least my friend's 1973 C
Mk.1 doesn't.

This article says that neither the Mark 1 or 2 have them:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/35foot/35mkii/index2.htm


The major features of the boats are as follow;
-The one feature which sets all MKI and II 35's apart from
all other C models is the absence of the trademark cove
stars at the fore and aft extensions of the cove stripe.

-The MKI did not receive the stars because of time limitations
for the first hull, thus there was no ties to install the
stars on the plug.

-The MKII plug was made off the C 35 MKI hull. The plug
being fibreglass could not (at that time) be modified, by
carving out stars,


Ken H.

On Wed, 1 Jul 2020 at 11:26, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> JohnKelly,
>
> I'm not sure the 35 MkII has the star / sword.  I know the MkI doesn't.
> Can any MKII owner verify that?
>
> Otherwise, I'll take my Sawzall and see if I can get them if Mike will let
> me cut the boat.
>
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:24 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Could you grab a sawzall and grab me the star and sword ?
>>
>> JohnKelly Cuthbertson
>>
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>
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