Stus-List Re: Engine tachometer

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

My tach was getting "stuck" a lot last summer.  Replaced the harnesses at
the engine and control panel this spring...that problem and a lot of other
minor sporadic issues vanished.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto

On Tue., Jul. 26, 2022, 8:48 p.m. Dave S via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mine did this as a result of a bad wiring harness ground at the engine.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 26, 2022, at 7:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yesterday, I was motoring and noticed that the engine tachometer was
> acting strangely.  It would read 4000 rpm for a while and then drop back to
> 2000 rpm (roughly correct).  Then it would go up to 3000 rpm and hold
> there.  It kept bouncing around while the actual engine was steady, so it
> was just the tach.  I have no idea where the data comes from, what would
> cause this, and whether to worry about it.  The engine is a Universal
> M4-30.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>

Stus-List Re: Chainplates

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies.

I was able to fairly easily turn the starboars SS rod that is inside the
boat. The head rotated inside the aluminum block without much resistance. 1
1/2 turns did the trick and got it as tight as the port side rod.

I backed off the nuts on the brass bolts that pass through the deck and did
not see any evidence of water ingress.  I tried removing one of the bolts
but it didn't seem to want to move easily so I decided to leave well enough
alone.  Then I tightened up all 4 nuts on each side with a torque wrench to
be sure everything was uniform.

Mike

On Wed., Apr. 13, 2022, 1:27 p.m. Michael Crombie, <
michaelcrombi...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm rebedding most of my deck hardware this spring and have come to my
> chainplates. I have a C 33 mkii (1986). Inside the boat, a tie rod runs
> from the hull up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The
> chainplate is attached to the aluminum block by 4 bolts.
>
> The starboard side tie rod has a bit of movement if I really pull on it.
> My understanding is that the rod has a head on it that is free to rotate
> inside the aluminum block. So I should be able to just turn the tie rod to
> tighten it up a bit. Has anyone done this before? Do I need to first loosen
> the nuts holding the aluminum block to the chainplate??
>
> Second, I noticed that the nuts on both sides aren't exactly tight. How
> tight should these nuts be? Presumably not too tight as that might compress
> the deck too much (??).
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> Mike
> Atacama
> Toronto
>
> On Sun., Mar. 27, 2022, 1:05 p.m. Stu via CnC-List, 
> wrote:
>
>> Spring is here and it will soon be sailing season (well for some
>> people).  Don't forget to get your copy of the Spring Checklist - it is
>> a lot easier than trying to remember.
>>
>> http://cncphotoalbum.com/Spring_Checklist.pdf
>>
>> Stu
>>
>

Stus-List Chainplates

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C 33 mkii
(1986) and have moved onto the chainplates.

Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs
up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly
under the chainplate; the block and plate are connected by 4 bolts that go
through the deck.

It is my understanding that the tie rod has a head that is inside the block
and that one can rotate the rod to tighten or loosen it and the head just
turns on the aluminum.

Here are my questions:

The starboard tie rod moves slightly if I really pull on it. Can I tighten
it up just by turning it?

Also, the nuts holding the block to the chainplate are not very tight.
Presumably they shouldn't be too tight or that could crush the deck. Does
anyone know how much they should be tightened? Right now they are not even
what I would call "snug".

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

Stus-List Chainplates

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm rebedding most of my deck hardware this spring and have come to my
chainplates. I have a C 33 mkii (1986). Inside the boat, a tie rod runs
from the hull up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The
chainplate is attached to the aluminum block by 4 bolts.

The starboard side tie rod has a bit of movement if I really pull on it. My
understanding is that the rod has a head on it that is free to rotate
inside the aluminum block. So I should be able to just turn the tie rod to
tighten it up a bit. Has anyone done this before? Do I need to first loosen
the nuts holding the aluminum block to the chainplate??

Second, I noticed that the nuts on both sides aren't exactly tight. How
tight should these nuts be? Presumably not too tight as that might compress
the deck too much (??).

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Mike
Atacama
Toronto

On Sun., Mar. 27, 2022, 1:05 p.m. Stu via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Spring is here and it will soon be sailing season (well for some
> people).  Don't forget to get your copy of the Spring Checklist - it is
> a lot easier than trying to remember.
>
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/Spring_Checklist.pdf
>
> Stu
>

Stus-List Re: C Forward "Bulkhead"

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

So I had a forward bulkhead problem too on my 33ii. But it was at the base
of the bulkhead on the port side. The cause of the rot was that there was
no limber hole in the bulkhead so that any water that seeped out of the
shower sump would just sit against the bulkhead.

I ended up cutting and grinding out the rot and a previous attempt at a
repair. Then I  tabbed and glassed in a new piece that was about 1' x 1'.
Dave Syer coached me through the job.

Would recommend that rather than attempting a full bulkhead replacement.

Mike
Atacama

On Thu., May 27, 2021, 10:44 a.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> First off, as Dwight mentioned, you need to find out why it is rotting. No
> sense in doing anything until you resolve that problem. Then, some pictures
> from the other side would be helpful to you. Also, take an ice pick and
> find out how rotten the wood is. If this is one of those deals, where they
> put it in as the boat was being built, it may be difficult to fit a new
> piece in there once you remove what is there. It might not be a bad idea to
> just leave it, and sand out all of the rotten stuff, if it is rotten, and
> just glass the hell out of it to where it is already tabbed. You're going
> to have to do that anyway, so if you just did that, you could just paint a
> border around the edge where the glass is and just have white there. Save a
> little bit of the mahogany look for the middle if you want to. Or paint the
> whole thing white.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Andrew Walther via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 26, 2021 11:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Walther
> *Subject:* Stus-List C Forward "Bulkhead"
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
>
>
> Forward most bulkhead is rotting and I can’t figure out how to remove it.
>
>
>
> Here’s a video…
>
>
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/e77DRbCFEQnFiBJ99
>
>
>
> Any help / suggestions would be most appreciated!
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Andy
>
> C (Tryfan)
>
> Comox, BC
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Water along toe rail

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I just sew two flat oil lamp wicks into a T and place through the hole in
the toe rail. The T holds them in place. Available online or in any outdoor
store.

Mike
Atacama 33ii

On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:55 a.m. James Hesketh via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A while back there was a discussion about using wicking material to suck
> up the standing water that gets trapped along the toe rail to carry it
> outboard.
>
> What it the best wick material for this?
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C 26
> Miami, FL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Andy,

Could you elaborate on "if you do it right" with respect to single handing
an outside gybe with an asymmetrical spin?  :)

I'll set and douse mine single handed, but have yet to attempt a single
handed gybe.

Mike

On Mon., Mar. 8, 2021, 10:41 a.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That won't be a problem...at least it wasn’t for me on my 40 and now on my
> Baltic 47, both of which have the kite tacked just aft of the headstay.
> If you do it right, that outside gybe is way easier than an inside gybe. I
> used to set, douse, and gybe the kite on my 40 singlehanded.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 8, 2021, at 10:34, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail)
> to be able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this
> technique have the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the
> headstay.  That seems pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point
> there.  My tack can either be attached directly to a padeye on the deck
> behind the forestay or to a strap around the furled headsail and then to
> the padeye.   I think that means that every time I jibe, the tack line will
> wrap around the headstay.  Is that a problem?   I could douse with the sock
> and redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for racing) or add an attachment
> point to the pulpit for a block so I am forward of the headstay.  Am I
> missing something?  How do others without sprits do this?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

So there is some water that comes down the mast.  But the mast sits in a
metal box. I sealed the bottom with silicone, drilled a hole in the aft
side and ran a tube into the bilge. So any water that comes down the mast
runs directly into the bilge.

Somehow water is getting into the keel stub itself and then seeping into
the bilge through the bilge wall.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

But in my case the water is actually seeping in through the bilge wall not
running down into the bilge

On Tue, Jan 19, 2021, 3:36 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Mike
>
> I have a similar issue.  Just remember that all moisture eventually ends
> up in the bilge.  I think your boat guy meant that if the hatches are
> leaking the water will end up there.
>
> Adam
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> ------------------
> *From:* Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 4:26:23 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Michael Crombie 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bilge leak
>
> I'm at a complete loss for ideas on this and would like to ask the group
> for some suggestions.
>
> I have had my C 33 mkii for 6 years now.  There has always been a small
> leak in the bilge, i.e. water is actually seeping in through the forward
> bilge wall about half-way down.
>
> The bilge is about 2 feet deep and starts about a foot aft of the mast
> step.
>
> The PO had a grounding a couple of years before I bought the boat.  About
> 2 years after I bought the boat I brought it to Bristol Marine and had the
> mast step reinforced (this was a know problem with 33's) and they also
> dropped the keel and then rebedded it.
>
> This work stopped the seeping, but it re-appeared a couple of years ago. I
> sanded and applied barrier coat around the keel stub joint and the keel
> stub.  This seemed to help, but the water ingress would start again about a
> month or so after launch.
>
> I, and several others, have inspected under the boat after haul-out and
> none of us have seen any sign of moisture, cracks, C smile, etc.  It
> looks perfect.
>
> The amount of water is small. Maybe a pint glass every 2-3 weeks.
>
> One boat repair guy suggested that I re-bed all my hatches.  I didn't
> understand that at all.
>
> I suppose the putty in the keel stub could be compromised. But I still
> don't understand how water is getting in there.
>
> Any ideas on the source of water??
>
> I suppose I could just apply some glass to the inside of the bilge, but
> that doesn't really solve the problem.  Should I drill into the forward end
> of the bilge to drain the water and then inject some sort of epoxy mix?
>
> Thanks in advance for your consideration!
>
> Mike
> Atacama, Toronto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Bilge leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'm at a complete loss for ideas on this and would like to ask the group
for some suggestions.

I have had my C 33 mkii for 6 years now.  There has always been a small
leak in the bilge, i.e. water is actually seeping in through the forward
bilge wall about half-way down.

The bilge is about 2 feet deep and starts about a foot aft of the mast
step.

The PO had a grounding a couple of years before I bought the boat.  About 2
years after I bought the boat I brought it to Bristol Marine and had the
mast step reinforced (this was a know problem with 33's) and they also
dropped the keel and then rebedded it.

This work stopped the seeping, but it re-appeared a couple of years ago. I
sanded and applied barrier coat around the keel stub joint and the keel
stub.  This seemed to help, but the water ingress would start again about a
month or so after launch.

I, and several others, have inspected under the boat after haul-out and
none of us have seen any sign of moisture, cracks, C smile, etc.  It
looks perfect.

The amount of water is small. Maybe a pint glass every 2-3 weeks.

One boat repair guy suggested that I re-bed all my hatches.  I didn't
understand that at all.

I suppose the putty in the keel stub could be compromised. But I still
don't understand how water is getting in there.

Any ideas on the source of water??

I suppose I could just apply some glass to the inside of the bilge, but
that doesn't really solve the problem.  Should I drill into the forward end
of the bilge to drain the water and then inject some sort of epoxy mix?

Thanks in advance for your consideration!

Mike
Atacama, Toronto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Losing Water

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,

I had that issue last summer. Suspected both the heat exchanger and the hot
water tank. So I disconnected the coolant hoses from the hot water tank and
just connected them together (thereby just by-passing the HW tank).

Then I replaced the seals on the heat exchanger, which definitely needed
replacing!  That solved the problem.

I'll try re-connecting the HW tank this week to see if problem returns.  If
it does, then HW is also the culprit.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 12:03 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Water in my heat exchanger keeps disappearing, very slowly, even when the
> engine hasn't been running for weeks at a time.  There is no evidence of
> water under the engine. Hot water heater is only a few years old. Could the
> heat exchanger be leaking into the raw water side of the cooling system?
> Anyone else have this problem? What's the best way to search for the leak?
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I had my topsides painted with awlgrip 3 years ago.  It looks fantastic and
maintenance is pretty straight forward It takes a lot less effort than
gelcoat in the spring.  I follow the recommended cleaning and protection 2x
per season.

However, as I found out while docking single handed in a very high
cross-wind, it can scratch easily.  Also, if you shrink-wrap your boat in
the winter, you can't do that if you have awlgrip.

Cheers,

Mike
Atacama C 33 mkii
Toronto

On Fri, Mar 6, 2020, 1:46 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls;
> if so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the
> work; are there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots,
> etcthanks!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

My marina won't haul you out in the winter if you have any sails still on.
One of the yard guys told me that it was for precisely that reason!

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto

On Wed, Jan 8, 2020, 4:46 PM Tom Alessi via CnC-List  Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port
> spreader bracket had been pulled off the mast, but still attached to
> spreader.  Seems a nearby sailboat owner had not removed the jib and it
> came unfurled during a storm and caught hold of the spreader boot. I can
> only imagine it violently shaking my spreader and rig. With the bracket
> partially off I can see a hole in the mast.
>
> - Is that some kind of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it worse
> than that? I'm buried in the yard and the mast won't be down till spring.
>
> -If the bracket or spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source for
> replacements?
>
> - Boat owner or Boatyard responsible?
>
> Appreciate any info.
>
>
>
> Tom Alessi
> Andiamo C 36
> 646-283-1580
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Regatta on Lake Ontario

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Glen,

I'm game!  Perfect excuse to get a new mainsail.

Mike
Atacama
C 33 mkii
Toronto

On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 4:45 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List  Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> Just checking in to see if there is any interest in a 2020 regatta on the
> north shore of Lake Ontario?  I know the National used to hold the regatta
> and it died for various reasons, but it would be great if we could have
> something on the lake where it all began.
>
>
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Boyer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* October-23-19 04:40 PM
> *To:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Robert Boyer
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous
>
>
>
> If we can hold the 2020 rendezvous at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore,
> Maggie and I will host it. giving Josh a break.  I would prefer Oct 2, 3,
> and 4 but we are very flexible.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Oct 23, 2019, at 12:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> All right folks,
>
>
>
> With the 2019 Rendezvous only slightly in the rear view mirror, we're
> already seeing quite a bit of discussion regarding next year.  I'll take
> that as an indication of the success of this year's event!
>
>
>
> Additionally, we are already discussing a location for 2021!  It
> tentatively looks like Solomons for 2021.  Dates TBD.
>
>
>
> *As for 2020:* We are *REQUESTING* input on locations and dates.
>
>- Weekend dates we are in the early stages of considering are the last
>weekend of Sept and the first weekend of Oct. (Sept 25, 26,27 and Oct 2, 3,
>4)
>- Previous year's polls have indicated that the highest number of
>people were interested in locations on the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis
>and Solomons.  Outliers both further North and South voted but not in
>sufficiently high numbers to warrant an immediate venue consideration.
>- I also say that those who attend most in the past get priority vote
>for future events.  As such - *Rainy Days, La Neige, Coquina, Crazy
>Legs, Der Barron, Sea Hawk, SEA YA !, and Ciothog* - your input is
>absolutely requested.
>- A lot of spirit has been generated around Baltimore's Anchorage
>Marina.
>
> All thoughts, inputs, votes, considerations, etc. are more than welcome.  
> *Please!
> I'm begging!  *I'll re-poll shortly but without input we'll have to just
> make executive decisions.  I say it again and again, "This isn't my event,
> it is ours.  If no one attends then the event is a failure of efforts.  I
> want it to be whatever, where ever, and whenever is best for the largest
> number of interested people."
>
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
>
>
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
>
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
>
> (443) 994-1802
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Michael Crombie
Atacama, C 33, mkii, 1986
Toronto
michaelcrombi...@gmail.com

On Thu, Oct 3, 2019, 9:14 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Charlie Nelson/Water Phantom/C 36XL/kcb/1995/US 83309/
> cenel...@aol.com/Greenville, NC
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Thursday, October 3, 2019, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin
> board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that
> will act as a supplement and perhaps one day, *only* when Stu says he’s
> no longer interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service
> we are using now.
>
> I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a
> moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct
> email to me) with the following information:
>
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address /
> Home Port
>
> For example:
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /
> e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter
> haul-out and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I too am following this thread with interest.

My 33 mkii leans slightly to starboard and is faster on starboard tack.
Was always a source of mild anxiety.

I was very careful with my mast tuning, so i felt i had eliminated that as
the cause. My water tank and ice box (always full of beer) are on
starboard...but my batteries are on port, then again most of my tools are
stored on the starboard side

After reading this thread, I think I'll just relax and enjoy that beer!

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019, 10:43 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> If the mast tip is off center with no tension on the standing rigging then
> there is problem with the partners (the place where it penetrates the deck)
> or a problem with the foot.  The extruded piece of aluminum we call the
> mast should stand nearly perfectly straight and centered with no outside
> forces.  Trying to force it centered with the standing rigging is not the
> right answer.
>
> I experience considerably better performance on port tack than on stbd
> tack.  When the rigging was rebuilt on my boat the rigging shop sent back
> symmetrical length side stays.  When the yard was installing them they had
> a very difficult time getting the threads to engage on the stbd side.  This
> suggests to me that the tip of the mast is leaning off towards the port
> side requiring the stays to be longer on the stbd side.  To me this also
> answers why the port tack is better.  The mast IS centered in the
> partners.  I believe the only best way for me to fix this condition is to
> move the foot of the mast to port.  The mast will pivot at the partners and
> pull the tip to the stbd side.  This is an easy fix when pulling or setting
> the mast but once the rigging is installed it makes shifting the shoe much
> more difficult.  I picture releasing the tension on the rig and then using
> a hammer to tap the shoe over.  It may even be as insignificant as 1/4 inch.
>
> At that level of effort this is definitely being left on the back burner.
> When the opportunity presents I'll take the time to fix it.  If I was
> racing it would be a different story since port tacks are less favored.  If
> one has to be better than the other then make it the stbd tack.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Tue, Aug 20, 2019, 9:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What are the symptoms of an uncentered mast? I have noticed that I
>> regularly see slower speeds on one tack (I need to pay more attention to
>> confirm which tack) even after trying to tune the sails well, and under
>> regular wind/current conditions. I don't have a knot meter, and only use
>> Navionics for GPS speed, but it has happened often enough that it makes me
>> wonder...
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 4:33 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I recently did some more mast tuning with my new/old Loos gauge and have
>>> one addition to all the guides I read that I think worked very well.  The
>>> question is how to tell when the mast tip is centered side to side.  In
>>> most guides you use the main halyard and measure the point where it touches
>>> some reference point on either side.  I found this difficult to reproduce
>>> on the two sides.  At the suggestion of a local sailor at my club, I got an
>>> inexpensive hanging scale (
>>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZWNGZFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1)
>>> and looped the hook through my halyard shackle and used that to determine
>>> when the mast was centered.  I would pull it down until it touched the
>>> chainplate and note the weight and then repeat to the same point on the
>>> othe side. It worked very well (and I was off a bit).   Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you 

Re: Stus-List Second Reef Point on 33 MKII

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,

I have a 33 mkii on Lake Ontario and have a second reef.  I use it a lot,
in fact probably more than my first reef.

I'll have to check when I get home on the exact location of the reef
points.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii

On Fri, Mar 22, 2019, 6:33 PM Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I have a 33MKII and all my mainsails have a single reef point.
>
> I do have two reefing lines in my boom so I can accommodate a second reef
> and am thinking of having one installed.
>
>
>
> My questions are:
>
>1. Do other 33MKII have as second reef?
>2. Are they beneficial?
>3. Where on the mainsail is the upper reef?
>
>
>
> I race on Lake Michigan and we have had some nasty winds the last two
> years.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lee Rosenbaum
>
> Kookaburra
>
> 1985 33MKII
>
> Kenosha, WI
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> 
> <#m_97938853871003512_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Glue residue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie - you are right to be hesitant about any type of cleaning pad
(scotch-brite, etc).  They will scratch your paint!

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018, 2:12 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

>
> Hey all;
>
> I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my boat--talk
> about delaying things!
>
> Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip painted
> hull.
>
> Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.
>
> I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just go
> for it because of the Awlgrip.
>
> OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of scratching
> the Awlgrip.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C XL/kcb
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Chartplotter mounting

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone!  All great ideas and solutions...now I just need to figure
out which is best for me and Atacama.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii

On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 3:02 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> My solution is a rotating pod on a platform.  The photo is mark I.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/43wn90deuauc5dh/AACB0OMJeRle0KBX62sczHVra?dl=0
>
> Mark II has a larger wooden platform.  I don’t have enough room behind the
> pedstal guard for a platform, so it has to be in front. I like being able
> to see the chartplotter from either side while steering, therefore the
> rotating/tilting pod.  It is supported by Sailrite clamps and a aluminum
> angle bracket. Mark III version will likely have stainless tuming for
> support and Sea-dog 90° clamps, but this version has worked fine for a
> year.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Chartplotter mounting

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all, I purchased a 7" Raymarine chartplotter for my 33 mkii.  I am
looking for mounting suggestions. Should I get a "pod" and, if so,  from
whom?  I don't really want a large, disproportionate one. Or should I just
make my own out of plastic?

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama
C 33 mkii

On Fri, Oct 19, 2018, 10:17 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I’m gonna use the Navionics app on my iPhone to find my way to the
> rendezvous next weekend…      I’m looking forward to actually meeting
> some of you face to face for the first time!
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 19, 2018, at 8:18 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I also have Navionics on my iPhone, OpenCPN on an Android tablet and a
> small text only handheld GPS so consider my system a bit multiplicative.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack point on bow of 37/40+?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I just got an asym chute this year and ran the tack line through the bow
roller and back to a cleat near the cockpit on my 33.

Given that I was just trying it out this year and don't have an experienced
crew, I only flew it in winds up to 9-10 knots. Worked quite well under
those conditions.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018, 10:03 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Really hard to douse the chute without easing the tack line so lead it aft
> and make it ajustable
>
> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 8:13 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bruce, For what its worth, I have been using a tack block shackled to a
>> hole where your retaining pin is, same as Kevin has done on his 30. I take
>> my tack line straight back and thru the deck organizer to the coach roof
>> winch array. I use a chute scoop sock too and jibe outside the forestay
>> every tac. I have a pair of big snatch blocks far aft shackled to the toe
>> rail for the sheets close to the primary winches. The anchor roller is
>> probably not ideal but has been effective for the last 10 years cruising
>> (but I don’t usually fly it over 15 knots, it’s a pretty light sail). Have
>> a look at the new bow sprits you can retrofit, they are pretty slick and
>> can be removed when not in use. Some are even retractable.
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 34 - 3GM30F oil pressure warning - theory or solved?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Sean.  I had the same "chirping" problem with my 2GM20F.  My oil level
was fine.  The ground on the sensor was good.  So I replaced the sensor,
but still had the chirping.  My mechanic came by and we put on a pressure
gauge...pressure was good!

So, for now I'm just living with the chirping which only seems to happen at
certain rpm. However, I do check my oil level regularly!!

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Mon, Jul 30, 2018, 4:20 PM SEAN CONNER via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
> After reading a bunch of old posts about oil pressure warnings, I wanted
> to share this scenario to see if anyone can impart any more wisdom about a
> theory, etc;   Our C 34 has a 3GM30F with a couple of thousand hrs.
> Engine runs like a top..change oil, filters, etc. religiously Only issue is
> grey smoke on hard start.. Maybe a small puff of blue, which I understand
> is not that uncommon. No smoke when running under load and no other issues.
> The other day we motored for 1.5 hrs in flat seas and as we reduced RPM's
> the low oil pressure alarm sounded. Killed engine and checked oil- it was
> ~50% so added ~1/3L qt.  Checked for oil in bilge, exhaust and water in oil
> and everything was fine. Restarted engine and had same issue. Decided to
> motor back to mooring at about 2,200 rpm. After ~30 min or so, started to
> hear a slight chirping from the alarm and when reduced rpm it seemed to go
> off at an even higher rpm (2,000 maybe?). Shut it down and sailed home for
> 2hrs. Started engine to get to mooring and alarm persisted, but seemed to
> happen at lower rpms (~1,200?). Came home, read up on the digests and
> figured out my troubleshooting plan. First step, replace oil pressure
> switch/sensor.
>
> Today, before replacing the sensor, I decided to start engine and do a
> more precise test on what rpm the alarm was sounded, but I could not
> recreate the issue (!?). Ran engine at 2,600 at mooring for ~15 min and no
> issue. Replaced the sensor anyway and everything seemed fine.
>
> So the question is, did I solve the problem with the new sensor or is
> there another theory that could explain these symptoms? I won't have time
> to run engine at higher rpms for an extended period for a few days, so was
> hoping to get a bit more educated on next steps if the issue resurfaces.
> Will keep the board posted on what I learn and appreciate any other insights
> Thanks
>
> Sean Conner/Ladyhawke
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List jump starting a yanmar

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all, does anyone know which solenoid terminals I need to connect (with a
screwdriver) when i'm jump starting a yanmar 2gm20f?

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii

On Fri, Jul 13, 2018, 9:43 PM Persuasion37 via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sorry I have limited data.  But there is a way to connect a led light to
> the controller to see if there are any faults.  Just google it.  Mine was
> the controller.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Jul 13, 2018, at 6:47 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> So.  3 year old old Danfoss 12 volt refrig.   Last one lasted us  20 plus
> years.  This one...?   Worked great until this year.  Start it up.  Fan is
> going and we get frosting at the evaporator at where the tubes enter.   But
> not consistent throughout evaporator.  If a coolant leak would we get any
> frosting of evap at all?
>
> Voltage is 12.5 or better .
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1985 C 33 Bilge Issue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Ray,

I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The
PO had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to
be strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.

Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of
the bilge.

Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I
sailed straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped
the keel, and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still
had a tiny bit of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work
was done, barrier coated it and now have a dry bilge.

Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do
this Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?

Mike


On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello:
>
> It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue
> since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I
> took a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls
> of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I
> saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very
> bottom of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I
> cannot do much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on
> the lift.  I was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was
> not good at all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any
> other area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?
>
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee WI.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,

I'm a bit confused by your description. By "round" attachment, do you mean
cylindrical?  My first thought is that this is your secondary fuel filter
and the bleed nut is open.  This filter is located on the front of the
engine (trace the fuel line from the fuel pump).   But then your reference
to the mixing elbow is what got me confused. It is at the rear of the
engine and there shouldn't be any fuel coming out anywhere near there
(maybe your return fuel line has a leak??)

Mike

On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical Spinnaker for Sale

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Rod,

If it hasn't already gone, please contact me off list at
mcrom...@interrockminerals.com.

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Dec 5, 2017 4:28 PM, "Rod Stright via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> One like new Doyle Racing Asymmetrical spinnaker in like new condition will
> fit boat with an I of 45' and a J of 13'.  Used less than 6 times.  Will
> fit
> C 33 Mk 2 or similar size boats.  $1500 firm Canadian.
>
> Rod
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
> Harben via CnC-List
> Sent: December-05-17 2:52 PM
> To: Robert Mazza 
> Cc: Don Harben ; C Mailing List
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mega Prototype?
>
> Hi Rob,
>
> Thank you. Your depth of knowledge is valued!
>
>
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
>
> > On Dec 5, 2017, at 9:48 AM, Robert Mazza  wrote:
> >
> > Harbour
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I was going to drop by and ask how the race went...but now I know!

Like Neil, I just installed a Garhauer rigid vang and tapped out holes in
mast (8) and boom (6). Haven't been out in anything more than 18-20 knots
yet, but so far so good.

Drop by anytime and take a look.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii

On Jul 26, 2017 1:34 PM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting question,  I just finished putting a vang on my 35-1.  After
> much internal debate, and talking to Garhauer from whom I got the
> fittings,  I went with tapped holes/screw, though drilling 8 holes in my
> mast and 6 in my boom wasn't the most comforting thing to do.  My only
> logic was if the screws rip out, I can always enlarge the holes to take
> rivets
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 7/26/2017 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, my Garhauer rigid vang (not hydraulic) on my 30-1
> fastens to the mast and boom with screws - six or eight screws per base
> plate.  I had to use very specific sizes of drill bits and thread taps
> matching the fat deep-threaded screws Garhauer sent me.  It's a solid
> installation and has withstood gusts nearing 40 knots multiple times these
> last two years.  Is tapping and screwing an option for fastening your vang?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> 
> *To: *"CnClist"  
> *Cc: *"Dennis"  
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:02:02 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue
>
> I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets.  "Every high load" rivet I
> installed in a mast was stainless coated with TefGel.
>
> However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG rivet tool
> like a Marson Big Daddy.  They run about $150.
>
> If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with stainless.
> Is there a rental shop around where you can rent a Big Daddy?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the shorter
>> scotch bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at the base of the
>> mast. The rivets appear to have sheared off.
>> I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am curious if
>> anyone has suggestions?
>>
>> Bill Nickel
>>
>> "adagio"
>>
>> 1977 C 30 mk 1
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I have a 33-2 as well and the PO had just simply run some speaker wires through 
the foreward bulkhead walls and had the speakers sitting on the shelves. That 
was an obvious pain as they kept falling all over the place every time i went 
for a sail.  Also it was pretty unsightly where the holes had been drilled 
because there was some discolouration, etc.

So just last weekend I mounted two Fusion speakers where he had drilled the 
speaker wires holes.  Very happy as I no longer have speakers crashing about, 
better sound, and I covered up the mess.  However, the port side speaker does 
extend into the head...but how much time do we really spend in the head? 

Next step is to do what you did and get a new stereo!

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I have the hose leading to a foot pump under the sink. The pump output just 
goes up into the sink. I'm now adept at mixing cocktails and foot pumping at 
the same time. 

(I have a valve just before the footpump that allows me to switch over to the 
fresh water tank in the event that the electric pump fails or I want to save 
energy)

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Mine is on the starboard side.  As mentioned already by other listers, storage 
on the port side is a pain since I have to list off cushions and fold out the 
extra bed.

Mike
Atacama 33ii 
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depth sounder installation

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi gang,

Last fall I wrote about removing my depth sounder as water was leaking in.  It 
was a traditional external depth sounder with a mushroom head.  It was held in 
place with a locking nut that screwed down against a wood backing block. 

I dug out the rotten wood and ground down all the glass that had been used to 
hold it in place. The installation was really overkill.  I wasn't able to 
remove the transducer without stripping the threads, so I bought a new one.

I now have a smooth, pretty flat surface around the transducer hole. I bought 
the same transducer (Raymarine, i.e. Airmar,)

So here are my questions:

1. I have made up a fibreglass backing block, but do I really need a backing 
block given that there really aren't any stresses on the transducer?  It's not 
like a through-hull where you are opening and closing a valve.

2. The new transducer came with a rubber washer that sits on the inside and the 
locking nut is supposed to be hand tightened down onto it. Is this really a 
good idea? Won't the rubber shrink a bit with age?

3. For my sealant, is there any difference between 3M 4200 and Sikaflex 291 
sealant/adhesive? I'm not sure if the Sikaflex is suitable for underwater 
applications. 

My current thought is to use the backing plate given that I've made it up 
already and skip rubber washer.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Toronto  

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Larry, I switched to soft shackle this year from bowline because the bowlines 
were always getting hung up on my baby stay and i'd'have to run forward.  
Didn't happen once this season!

Mike
Atacama 33mkii

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Larry via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:27:20 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Larry
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

For the non-mechanic; The oil pressure alarm should sound for a second or two 
when you start your engine and then shut off. (Assuming your alarm speaker, 
wiring, and ignition circuit are all ok)

Or you can disconnect the wire from the sending unit and measure the resistance 
from the sending unit to ground. It should be 0 when the engine is shut down 
and infinite when the engine is running. 

Mike 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 17:30:47 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks again everyone!  I have a much clearer picture now. 

I'll dismantle over the next weekend or two and will do installation in the 
spring when it is warmer.

Will keep you posted...

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks for the tips and info Dave...you clearly know a lot more about this than 
I do!

You are right, everything is plastic.  As far as I understand it, no matter 
what I end up doing, I need to get the backing nut off, get the wet rotten 
plywood off, and get the  sender out.   Yes, I concur that I would like to 
start with clean fresh surfaces.  


My confusion is when you refer to a through hull fitting and the sender 
separately.  I had thought that the sending unit was essentially the through 
hull fitting.  

My understanding of the process is:  once I get the backing nut off and all of 
the plywood backing plate off, I would next need to go under the boat and slide 
some wire underneath the mushroom head fitting to cut any sealant.  Then I need 
to go back inside and grip the sending unit (where it is not threaded) and try 
and rotate it to break it free of sealant.  Then I would clean everything, make 
a new backing plate, and remount.  Is all of this correct?

Of course, if this doesn't work and I can't break things free without 
destroying them, then I suppose I just need to do whatever it takes to get 
everything out. Then buy a new sender with hopefully the same diameter. Again, 
is this correct?  

Thanks again,

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel!   Yes, no extra holes is the priority here.

Mike 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 14:31:17 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depthsounder

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depthsounder

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as the 
throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually stops after 
a few days once the plywood expands. 

Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder?

As a first step, I attempted to back off the plastic locking nut, but of course 
it doesn't seem to want to budge.  Any suggestions before I just use brute 
force and just break it off?

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Slip Choice

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I single hand a lot and prefer the slip on my port.  I come in bow first so I 
pull towards the slip when i go into reverse to stop the boat (as I'm returning 
to the slip.)  It is a slight hassle departing, but i just give the stern a bit 
of a push off as I step aboard. 

I also made sure that i picked a slip that faces into the prevailing 
wind...this makes docking easier if you ever need to sail into your slip. I 
just turn into the slip and the wind stops me.

I agree with a previous lister that you want to avoid slips with the prevailing 
wind pushing you off the slip.  This situation causes the most problems at my 
marina, even for boats with lots of crew.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I don't mean to be flippant, but maybe it is just because it is getting colder. 
 It certainly takes longer to get diesels started out here in Ontario in the 
fall.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Michael Jones via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2016 18:18:08 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Jones; Tristan 
Jones
Subject: Stus-List yanmar diesel

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List RC issues.

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

Every week a different boat is assigned RC duty...they just need to provide a 
suitable person whether they be from the boat crew or not.  You can of course 
vary this...2 boats assigned RC if you need 2 people, etc.  You can't sign up 
for racing unless you are prepared to accept this responsibility. It works 
really well.

Mike 
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2016 17:07:24 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Stus-List RC issues.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I believe the confusion here is because in the COLREGS the "steaming light" is 
referred to as a masthead light.   On most sailboats it is not at the top of 
the mast.  People confuse "masthead" with the all around anchor light.

If you are under power (sails up or not) you must display the masthead light 
which lights up an arc of 225 degrees.   The other point of confusion may be 
that if a vessel is less than 12m in length, she can display an all around 
white light instead of the mastlight and sternlight. 

The tricolour light can be used if the vessel is less than 20m.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers - expiration and inspection

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Excellent suggestion! 

Thanks

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2016 19:11:19 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers - expiration and inspection

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers - expiration and inspection

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Interesting discussion...i changed out my extinguishers this summer because 
they were 15 years old.

Does anyone know how to properly dispose of old extinguishers that are still 
charged??

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I race wednesdays! But on a J24..does that count??

When i was racing vice-commodore i tried to change it to Mondays to help my 
travel schedule, but no one would go for it.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I sewed dogbones for my first and second reefs a few weeks ago...i LOVE them!  
My tack would inevitably come off the reef hook when I was hooking directly 
onto the sail grommet.

Mike
Atacama 33ii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sales tax in Canada

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Yes, there is sales tax between private owners on boat sales in Canada.  I 
found this out recently. I bought my boat in Ontario three years ago from a 
private individual...sales tax didn't even enter into my head.  Then I 
dutifully registered the change of ownership with the federal government.

Well, 3 years later I received a letter from the Ontario government stating 
that they had been advised by the federal government that I had a boat and they 
were wondering whether or not I had paid sales tax!   My accountant said that 
other than making up a fake bill of sale or lying and sending them after the 
PO, I had no choice other than to pay it.  At least they were kind enough not 
to charge interest.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Just wrote my exam on the colregs!  No you cannot use tricolour at the top of 
mast AND running lights. You can have running lights with an all round red over 
an all round green on the mast, but I have to say that I have never actually 
seen this. 

Mike 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sat, 21 May 2016 15:44:28 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soliciting help with 33-2 Engine 2GM20F control layout and cooling water through hull location.

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,

I have same boat and same engine. Cooling water intake through-hull valve 
access is via starboard cockpit locker.  I have a start button and a stop cable.

If you can't find things, just trace back from the engine.

Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33ii 
Toronto (but now in Port Hardy about to embark on a sail around the west coast 
of Vancouver Island)

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Doug Welch via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 01:16:03 
To: C List
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Stus-List Soliciting help with 33-2 Engine 2GM20F control layout
 and cooling water through hull location.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Seasickness

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Does anyone have an opinion or experience with Dramamine vs Scopolamine?? If 
one takes Dramamine, should it be taken for 1-2 days before heading out?

I've used Scopolamine before and it was moderately effective, but i'll be going 
on a long rough passage on the outside of of Vancouver Island next week and was 
wondering about trying Dramamine.

Thanks,

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Yup! I did.  Mine stopped after about 3 days as the wood expanded.  Keep your 
bilge pump on automatic and keep an eye on it.

It that doesn't work...I had a couple of suggestions from the list. Tighten the 
nut or else back it off a bit (water will pour in) and get some teflon tape 
around it and re-tighten)

Mike
Atacama 33mkii  


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2016 18:05:02 
To: 
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Stus-List leak

 gary Kolc via CnC-List  wrote:

I put Liberty in the water today and while doing my check of all thru hulls I 
noticed that the knot meter was leaking
In between the large nut of the fixture and the wooden backing plate. Not much 
of a leak but noticeable more like
a weep. The inside of the boat looks like a bomb went off which is usual the 
day it goes in,  just a huge mess. I spent about 3 hrs cleaning and keeping an 
eye on the leak and as time went on it seemed to slow down I'm hoping it has 
stopped by tomorrow.
Didn't someone else have the same problem not so long ago?

   Gary

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening the 
through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion of 
backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard 
mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person 
around for this job.

Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak. So we 
both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an eye on it. 
 

Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon haul-out.  
Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the water 4 days and 
already I have haul-out jobs planned!

Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the end 
of the season anyway.

Mike
Atacama. 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

It is existing. I was a bit nervous to try that today...will attempt early this 
week. I have a plug handy...  


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 23:50:58 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Unfortunately my leak seems to be between the hull and the throughhull.  

The water in Lake Ontario is a bit nippy for me to take a splash and my marina 
crane is pretty busy with launches these days. 

Still thinking...

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water in 
the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.  

Is there a fix for this to get me through the season? 

Thanks, 

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

While we are on the topic of preventers, my understanding of the proper way to 
rig one is as follows;

A big bowline around the boom, led up to a block as far forward as possible, 
the back to a winch in the cockpit.

My confusion is about the purpose of a preventer: 

1. is it to hold the boom out?  Then if you do gybe, you can just gybe back?

2. Or is it to allow a controlled gybe? Presumably the above set-up would allow 
one to ease the boom out at least until it was centered

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Great, thanks...that sounds do-able! 

And thanks to the others for their input. Always lots of good ideas on this 
list.

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sender: "CnC-List" <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 18:06:53 
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato<rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

HI Mike:

You or your sailmaker can fabricate one..in my case, I bought a
piece of 1" wide nylon web strapfor of like the sail ties material.
Then I found at West Marine 2 stainless rings about 2" in diameter???/
(Bigger than your sail cringle)I put one ring on the strap and fed both
pieces of the strap through the cringleon the other side, I put the
second ring on and then overlapped the two ends about an inch and stitched
then together with heavy waxed whipping line.I Found a nifty hand
stitcher at Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks and that made it easy.

So the finished product looks like a floppy dogbone with one ring on each
side..that ring simply gets hooked over the reefing hook on the boom end
and you're all set to haul up the main halyard..

You'll figure out that after you reef the leech of the sail, you may need to
readjust the halyard, but that's boat dependant and crew savvy

Good luck,

Ron

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 9:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

Hi Ron,

You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think
this is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I
make one? 

For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage the
sail.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Ron,

You refer to a  "strap loop" that goes through the tack cringle.  I think this 
is exactly what i'm missing! Where do I get one of these? Or how do I make one? 

For the past two years i've just been trying to hook the cringle onto the 
reefing hook on the boom...this doesn't work very well and it can damage the 
sail.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'm a fan of keeping the boat pretty flat, so I usually reef my 33 at about 
13kn if i know its blowing that before I head out.

If i'm already out, i'll wait until around 15 kn before doing the main but will 
usually furl in the genoa a bit before that.

The wind on Lake Ontario is rarely steady, so a 12-15 kn breeze usually has 
gusts to 18-20.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii 
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mixing elbow and Oil cooler concerns

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

While we are on mixing elbows, I plan on replacing mine this spring on my 
Yammar 2GM20F.  I am a bit worried about making a mess of this job as it looks 
like the old one has never been touched and is firmly rusted in place. Any tips 
for removing it? 

Also, when I go to install the new one (which I already have on hand), do I 
need to put anything on the threads?

Thanks,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks all!!  Always a good call to double check with this list.

I'll stick with separate sheets. 

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Jib sheet

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

The Toronto Boat show is approaching and i'm putting together my list. My jib 
sheets have seen better days so I need to replace them.

Am thinking of going with a single sheet with a ring hitch at the clew because 
my bowlines tend to snag on the baby stay.  Is there any reason NOT to do this??

Also, any recommendations on material? I don't race (this boat), just coastal 
cruising. 

Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I have a 33mkii with that engine.  I find it on occasion slightly underpowered, 
but it wouldn't change my decision to buy the boat.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto 

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Eyestrap!  Yes that's what i rivetted on - thanks! :)  

 I did it just the way you describe and have never been anxious about it when 
reefed.

Mike 
  
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2015 19:30:18 
To: CnClist
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Tis the season...i just replaced my leaking pressure relief valve too!! (and 
the element and anode!).  

I also noticed that the valve didn't have a drain hose on it, so it was 
dripping around the base of the tankand that provides the explanation for 
the shock that I received when I changed out the heating element a few weeks 
ago.

The tank didn't work when I bought the boat and I finally got around to dealing 
with it this year.


Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

What strikes me is that you stated that the alarm "stayed" on after you started 
the engine following your half hour of sailing.  My experience with cooling 
problems (either with the fresh water or the internal recirculating cooling) is 
that is usually takes a few to several minutes for the engine to overheat and 
the temp alarm to sound if one of these systems is not working properly. 

If the problem was with something mechanical, i would have expected that you 
could have motored for a few minutes before the engine overheated. Perhaps 
check the T sensor grounding and connections?

Mike 
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 33 mkii mast step revisited

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Nick did the work on my 33 mkii.  The PO had a hard grounding and that's really 
where the mast step becomes a problem.  Sooner or later most of us seem to run 
aground, so i'd recommend the step re-inforcement.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii 
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Dave via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 20:48:18 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33 mkii mast step revisited

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boat names

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I saw a Mirage 27 the other day called "The Whole Nine Yards" 

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 33ii mast step assessment and repair

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'm not aware of a site, but Bristol Marine in Port Credit, ON has done quite a 
few of these repairs. 

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Looking at a C 33-2.... known issues?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I bought a 33 mkii 3 years ago (my first boat!)

The main issue was the mast step...it needs to be re-inforced. One of the POs 
had a hard grounding and the weak mast step was a problem. I had part of the 
keel stub re-built and the mast step done at Bristol Marine last winter.

The engine access is a pain, but is fine for routine maintenance.

I can guess why the V-berth door has been shaved...I bang my head on it EVERY 
time!

I've had no issues with window leaks or soft deck.

I love the boat. It handles well and is well balanced. I can sail along for 
5-10 min on a near reach without touching the wheel.  And the size is perfect 
for single handing.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I had my jacket inflate this summer. I was helming a J24 in a race on a very 
light air day and was slouched against the lifeline in a state of sheer 
boredom...when (i'm sure you see this coming) the shackle gave way and suddenly 
i was in the water. 

The jacket inflated like it was supposed to but i did find it very awkward to 
move around and to try and lift myself back on the boat. I was quite surprised 
at my lack of mobility.   On the other hand, if I had been unconscious, i 
believe that the pfd would have kept my head above water and kept me alive.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii 
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Diesel water alarm question

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Another thing to check is the belt tension on your cooling water pump. I 
started my engine last summer and noticed less than usual water coming out with 
the exhaust...it was just a matter of tightening up the belt.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Hot water tank

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water tank.  
The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the heating 
element so I checked the element and it was fried. 

I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water after 
about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing that I 
touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock. 

The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating element 
and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked for 
continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or frame and 
got none.

So i'm puzzled. The shock wasn't big, but i definitely felt something. Any 
ideas???

Thanks,

Mike 
Atacama 33 mk ii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Starter

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Glad to hear it Francois. I ordered a switch and will hopefully have it by next 
week. In the meantime, this weekend I will take the advice of the others and 
will clean all connectors, check engine ground, and solenoid this weekend.

Cheers,
Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Starter

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Pedestal overhaul

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Yes, I have one too but it is not very big and the cables are underneath the 
quadrant so I can't even see the adjusting nuts from the port. 



Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 19:41:57 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountainp...@seasource.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal overhaul

I have an access port under the helm seat to give access to ours.

Paul. :)


 On Jul 12, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 Not much wind here in Toronto today so thought it would be a good day to 
 overhaul the pedestal on my 33' mkii.   First step of course is to loosen 
 steering cables and chain so that I can lift the chain off the sprocket.  I 
 don't know how big other C+C 33 owners are, but there doesn't seem to be any 
 way for me to get access to the cable adjustment under the quadrant. 
 
 Even if there was some way for me to miraculously loosen the cable,  I would 
 have no faith in my ability to re-tighten. 
 
 Any ideas??  Could I try and walk the chain off the sprocket? 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mike 
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
 Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Pedestal overhaul

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

 
Not much wind here in Toronto today so thought it would be a good day to 
overhaul the pedestal on my 33' mkii.   First step of course is to loosen 
steering cables and chain so that I can lift the chain off the sprocket.  I 
don't know how big other C+C 33 owners are, but there doesn't seem to be any 
way for me to get access to the cable adjustment under the quadrant. 

Even if there was some way for me to miraculously loosen the cable,  I would 
have no faith in my ability to re-tighten. 

Any ideas??  Could I try and walk the chain off the sprocket? 

Thanks,

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Thanks guys! The complete hose kit sounds like the right solution for me. I had 
noticed that most of the hoses seem worse for wear.

As with most of my boat projects...one thing seeems to lead to another.

Cheers,

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating pump. I 
have a Yanmar 2GM20F.  I decided to tackle the job myself and yesterday I 
removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed that most of 
them also need replacing.

Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii 
Toronto 

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

You could try calling Outer Harbour Marina. 

Mike

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 11:21:18 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsastevanpla...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel bolt moving

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Derek,

I would concur with the others that have suggested a survey.  On my 33, the 
mast had pushed the cabin sole down a lot and I had a small leak in my bilge.  
I kept futzing around with things myself until I had a proper survey done this 
past fall. The surveyor sent me straight to Bristol Marine where they did an 
outstanding job of reinforcing the mast step and redoing an old DIY grounding 
repair job from a PO.  Needless to say, I won't be buying new sails this 
summer, but Atacama is better than new.

Mike
Atacama 33 mk ii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I just bought that model at the Toronto Boat Show...for a lot more than $125!!  
 Getting the mmsi from industry canada was easy.  I obviously haven't used it 
yet but have gone though the manual and like all the features.

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Tuning a CC 30 Mark 1

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Yes, those two innocent little hooks counter the upward pull of the halyards so 
that there is no net force lifting up on the deck!  I just realized that myself 
this year.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 18:01:52 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: Alan Lombard alan.lomb...@sympatico.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Tuning a CC 30 Mark 1

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I paid about $1,200 in materials for a holly+teak sole for my 33' last summer.  
A friend and I did the work (actually he did most of it). I was told that the 
cost would be about $5,000 if I hired someone.

So your materials cost seems a bit low and labour seems a bit high.   $5 - $6k 
might be reasonable for 41'

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

That's exactly why I got my boat checked by a surveyor with lots of CnC 
experience once I realized fixing my bilge leak wasn't just a matter of 
tightening the keel bolts. He figured that the starboard side of the keel stub 
had delaminated from the internal filler.

Mike
Atacama CnC 33 Mk ii
Toronto


 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2014 11:26:07 
To: dwight veinotdwight...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Bill 
Hoyneho...@telus.net
Reply-To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List keel bolts

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I have to agree. I had a small leak in my bilge two summers ago that strangely 
enough didn't go away by itself and got worse this past summer. The PO had told 
me about a hard grounding. 

I got it surveyed this fall after haul-out by a surveyor with lots of CC 
experience. Turns out I have hidden grounding damage.  I re-launched on Friday 
and sailed over to Bristol Marine in Port Credit on Sunday. Will be $$.

At least I had a great sail yesterday...I had all Lake Ontario to myself.

Mike 
Atacama CnC 33 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Racing rules question

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

I don't know all the details, but assuming you had rights to head up the other 
boat (the middle one) and you actually attempted to, then what happens between 
the middle boat and other boats above her is irrelevant. Your protest is valid. 
 

As far as I know, the middle boat cannot be exonerated from your protest 
because the boats or boats above them did not respond. That seems like a 
judging error to me.

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take forever to 
switch off.  It finally fried itself after a season. When I installed my new 
one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge like you did), I had 
the same problem! But then I played with the angle of the pump and set it so 
that the float end of the pump was slightly higher than the pump end. This will 
give you a clean shut-off.  I just used a shim under the pump base to achieve 
this.  

Mike
CC 33 mk II
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

No, no backflow valve.  That was going to be my next attempt to fix the problem 
if changing the pump angle didn't work. 


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Fred Hazzard fshazz...@gmail.com
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:49:12 
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

Do you have a backflow valve in the discharge line?   Until I put one in,
the water in the hose would flow back in and start the pump again.  My line
from the pump to the back of the boat was about 15 feet long.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CC 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Tom,

 I had a cycling problem with my bilge switch as well...it would take
 forever to switch off.  It finally fried itself after a season. When I
 installed my new one (different make and directly on the bottom the bilge
 like you did), I had the same problem! But then I played with the angle of
 the pump and set it so that the float end of the pump was slightly higher
 than the pump end. This will give you a clean shut-off.  I just used a shim
 under the pump base to achieve this.

 Mike
 CC 33 mk II
 Toronto
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
 Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Companionway hood

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

A couple of the screws are loose on my companionway hood, so I am planning on 
removing it and giving it a good cleaning (and cleaning the gunk underneath it).

What type of sealant should i put into the screwholes when I put it back on?  
4200? Silicon?  Any advice would be appreciated.

There seemed to be quite the debate a few years ago about whether to seal the 
entire underside or not.  Mine only appears to have sealant around the screws 
and i don't have any leaks (at least not around the companionway!) , so I'll 
probably stick with that method.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama CC 33 Mk II 
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Pedestal

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I'd'like to have a look inside my pedestal because the shaft that my wheel is 
mounted on slides in and out about 1/2 which is a bit disconcerting.  

I have a 1986 CC 33' mk2 with an Edson pedestal. The compass is mounted on a 
circular wooden plate. The wood is mounted on a cylinder that has the 
transmission and throttle levers. 

Any tips for opening all this up?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama, Toronto  
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Table bolts

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

I have an '86 33 Mark II.  I happen to have my table bolts handy as i haven't 
put in the the table yet...I like the extra space, but will put it in before i 
do a trip.  

My table bolts are 3 3/4 long, with hex 3/4 head, the actual bolt diameter is 
3/8.  

Cheers,
Mike

Atacama, Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Charlie Normand via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 07:18:21 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: Charlie Normand cnorman...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Table bolts

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com