Stus-List Re: Insurance…add international races with paid crew

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

  
  
  

	
	I’m rejuvenating this conversation and highlighting a specific need for a friend of mine. They plan to race the boat internationally from Miami to Nassau.  They also plan to have one or two paid crewmembers on board . Evidently that last sentence is a bit of a stickler for the carriers. I’m curious if anyone on this list has come across this issue, or know someone that has, and found a solution. Thank you
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 From: Doug via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 15:03To: Stus-ListCc: DougSubject: Stus-List Re: Insurance One thing everyone should be aware of is most umbrella policies don't have the Oil pollution liability coverage. It is now up to $997000. This is standard in all marine/boat policies. At my club we are trying to require all policies to have this. This coverage limits what the USCG, DNR, or EPA can take from the insured for spill clean up. If you don't have this coverage these agencies will come in and take the full liability coverage of all involved. We had a fire a few years ago where the responsable party did not have this coverage. This left no money for the deductibles for replacing/repairing the other 5 boats and boathouse. The club also had to pay $25000 in deductible for damage to the dock. Because of this a couple of members had to get out of boating, being unable to afford the loss. FWIWDoug. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA Original message From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  Date: 10/14/21  12:36  (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List  Cc: Jim Reinardy  Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance 



American Family has my cars, boats and house insured, and I also have an umbrella liability with them.  They require that you have car insurance with them to purchase the liability policy, but once you have it, it applies to everything.  It came up with a claim
 a few years ago, so I know it applies to boating.




Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI




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From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 12:57:10 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
 




All the umbrella policies I found with a quick search seem to be home and car, no mention of boats
☹
Be glad you aren’t looking for airplane insurance, the recent payouts on crashed 737s are getting paid for by EVERYONE, not just 737 owners.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA
 
 
 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:32 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

 


I suggest anyone reviewing their insurance coverages investigate an umbrella policy.  I have a significant umbrella policy that will kick in in the event the coverage on any of my individual policies is exceeded.  


 


One caveat for umbrella policies is they are usually cheaper if you have all your policies with one carrier.


 


--


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83


Mandeville, LA




 


On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 8:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:




Great news 

My marina requires $500K liability this year, so when I added it I didn’t realize I was propagating it across all three of my policies. I now have what I think is the only dinghy in the world with half a million dollars of insurance.
For all three boats it added up to $84/year extra. The dinghy is also insured for 75 miles offshore, which would be quite the trip!
 
Joe
Coquina C 35 MK I
 





 

 





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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I’m curious how many have and use a Jib-Top?  Worth it?

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Don Kern via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2019 8:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Kern 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

 

Ron

Fireball carries four head sails when racing each has a cut and weight 
appropriate to the apparent wind: light #1 150% (3-12 kts), #2 135% (12-20 
kts),  #3 120%(18-28 kts) and  #4 85% (survival). The main has only two reefs, 
the lower reef points are placed between where a 1st and 2nd reef would 
normally be and a the upper a little above the position of a normal second 
reef.  The boat was optimized for SORC racing in the mid 70s by C and has a 
boom 2 ft shorter than normal (11.5 ft vs normal 13.5ft), thus I do not put a 
reef in until 15+ kts with a #2 flying.  We throw in (literally) the second 
reef with a #3 when the boat is laying over too far. I find the boat feathers 
up nicely in heavy air and try to keep the toerail out of the water by easing 
the main down on the main track in gust.  Always trying adjust the sails to 
point and keep the boat on its feet (rail out of the water).

Cruising, we use a 138% roller furl and a main with three sets of reef points.

Seems like a lot of sails, but I've had the boat from 1980, so you do get a 
collection.   However, had to get a new #3 and #4 this year since I destroyed 
the 20+ yrs old #4 and had the old #3 de-laminate.

Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI 

 

 

On 6/20/2019 4:37 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

That sure seems to be true and I wonder why???  Are we just being too cautious 
when we start with a no.2 or when we drop to the no.3?  Or is there really no 
need ever for a no. 2?

Although cloth density might make a difference if our no. 1 is really for light 
air.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Tuesday, June 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
  wrote: 

 

 

For those of us race and change sails, one of my racer buddies told me you 
never change down from a #1 to a #2. You always drop to your #3. In my years 
racing since he told me that, I’ve come to agree with him. 

You might start with a #2 but you rarely change down to one. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA 


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Stus-List 37 Northern Lights

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Maybe just coincidence, but there's a 37 named Northern Lights for sale in WI 
for $50k.  

http://barkers-island-marina.com/yacht-details/?boatID=6847626


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2019 7:33 AM
To: John Christopher 
Cc: robert ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

John,

I think I might have met your friend.Christian Tirtirauif true, he 
bought a C 37 from an RNSYS club member...the boat was called Northern 
Lights.it was in great shapethe previous owner hardly used itsat on 
a mooring all Summer for several years.  It was on the market for approx. $35K  
which I thought was an exceptional price for this boat and no one locally 
bought it.

If it is Christian, he once told me he likes to get on a tack and stay there 
for two weeks.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-04-25 7:58 a.m., John Christopher wrote:
> Hi Robert,
>
> His boat is now located at Shining Waters Marina.
>
> He was at the Halifax marina for a few years. He upgraded his quite 
> old equipment (Radar, batteries, chartplotter, wind, depth, speed.
> added a drogue, had the rod rigging inspected, added


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Re: Stus-List Broken shift cable

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

The cable should have a part number on it. I'm told that number will be 
everything you need to know for replacement.
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Stus-List R flex coupling

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I need to replace my prop shaft/coupling and am considering the addition of an 
R flex coupling.  

 

Anyone have experience if they provide the reduction in noise/vibration as 
advertised?

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill –

Are you applying online?  Rudder type is on the form, but I don’t recall seeing 
a question on the shaft 

 

FWIW – my ’84 37 is solid and, assuming it’s original, would bet money yours is 
too.   With rudder shaft specs alone it’s such a minor impact that A) It 
doesn’t justify asking the question and B) if you’re wrong it’s highly unlikely 
phrf will dock you the -3 sec/mile.  

 

If the whole rudder is not original, then I understand why phrf is asking more 
questions.  In that case the builder of the rudder should have more info.

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of WILLIAM WALKER via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder Shaft Material

 

Lake Michigan PHRF is asking whether my rudder shaft is solid stainless or 
hollow stainless.  Any one know with sufficient confidence?
1981 C & C 36
Bill Walker

Bill Walker 

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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

To expand on Tom’s note below, I have a few additional questions for this 
crowd;  With anticipation of doing some offshore races in our area this summer, 
I pulled my mast last fall to tighten up all the keel bolts.   After only a 
couple years, they were surprisingly loose.   

 

Quick question; any reason to not use blue Loctite on the threads to help keep 
the nuts from loosening?

 

The boat is 5 hrs away and I don’t have any photos with me to double check, but 
I’m assuming there should be lock washers.  Maybe a better solution is to just 
replace those lock washers?  

 

Thanks,

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Thomas Delaney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney 
Subject: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

 

Hi  listers,

 

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

 

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

 

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

 

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 

 

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

 

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

---
Snow Goose

35-1

City Island, NY

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Stus-List hand held VHF with DSC

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Long story, but our local racing fleet has made a requirement that a boat must 
carry a handheld VHF with DSC for offshore.   

 

Admittedly, I haven’t looked into this yet, but my question to this crowd is; I 
already have an issued MMSI number for the boat’s AIS, is it smart to use that 
same number for the handheld also?   It seems, since it is portable and I 
theoretically could carry the handheld to any boat, I should register it with 
it’s own MMSI.   Is anyone aware of requirements or standard procedure for this?

 

Second question, are other fleets out there requiring this?

 

Thanks,

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Re: Stus-List DX900+

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill – 

Just in case you haven’t already seen this one, here’s an article w/comments 
that is relatively current.   Additional links buried in there too.

https://www.panbo.com/airmar-2018-part-2-ultrasonic-and-em-speedo-mysteries-unraveled-plus-new-udst800/
 

 

Let me know if you hear anything new, but it sounds like waiting a little bit 
isn’t a bad idea.  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List DX900+

 

 

Does anyone have any experience with Airmar’s DX900+, the electromagnetic 
Speed, Temp, Depth and Cross track error Transducer?

I had read some good articles on it, but then I recall also hearing that it 
wasn’t ready for prime time yet.

Wondering if I should wait until possible bugs are worked out.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I wouldn’t compare the 26 to a MacGregor.  

 

It sounds like you need to get out sailing different boats more to help you 
decide what’s important, or not. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid 
hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat with 
all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more areas, with 
sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at were mainly 
motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In fact, nearly all 
the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old sails. The C 37 had 
a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but the boat was a mess. 
Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the summer, when most people 
cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless they venture beyond the inside 
passage.

 

It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I looked 
at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K and been 
sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the cockpit as a 
result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me after sailing a 
friend's MacGregor. 

 

I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20 
years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on rainy 
days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable comfort. 
Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of getting a 
solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I can't fix easily 
fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is right; in fact I would 
prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I am not afraid of engine 
work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price would have to reflect the 
amount of work needed.

 

Thanks for all the tips!

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

If this is what you want:

 

"I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."

 

For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about water 
makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my opinion, man. So 
take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at all costs, though I do 
love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff, it's all just "nice to 
haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a seaworthy boat with solid rigging, 
no soft decks, good sails and a well maintained engine - done. Out here on the 
Lakes there are a lot of racing boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are 
raced hard and put away wet, others are raced hard and very well cared for. I 
would look for the latter. 

 

Steve

 

 

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

FYI.

 

All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the engine, 
presumable sized with one take off, not four.  

 

I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by 
Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many of 
our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.

 

And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.  

 

Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor 
workmanship you cant see?

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions 

 

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and 
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly on 
the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s molded 
headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the dodger, etc). That 
weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had a feel for the 
interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am changing my opinion of 
the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some boats with the drop-down, 
I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker when not needed. 

 

Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous owner:

 

- water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and 
installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level

- engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not sure how 
it is engaged/disengaged

- dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys off 
the crank

- solar 

Re: Stus-List Question for Fred and others - Smart Watch apps & connectivity

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

RaceQs runs on the Garmin Vivoactive, but it appears they are moving over to 
Apple Watch

 

Or you can go with something preloaded from garmin.  At first blush is appears 
the sailing apps are similar, but Quatix definitely has more and it’s currently 
on sale : 

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/580642 

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2018 11:20 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question for Fred and others - Smart Watch apps & 
connectivity

 

http://raceqs.com/smart-watch/

 

Dennis C.

 

On Thu, Dec 27, 2018 at 7:55 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi All

 

Smart watches have become increasingly popular and tend to slave themselves to 
a smart phone and also have wifi.  I have always thought that it would be nice 
to have a great sailing app running on a smart phone stashed below with the 
watch as a repeater.  Large digits showing GPS speed, Heading Bearing, distance 
to waypoint, etc…  Also be nice to have a nice GPS app when hiking in the 
woods, etc .. that acts like a marine GPS or chartplotter showing tracks, 
distance travelled and the like.  What I have been able to find so far is 
trying to be more like Google Maps or a car style GPS than like either of 
these.  A final very nice option would be the ability to use the wifi 
capability of the boat’s instruments to set up the watch as a repeater for 
speed over water, wind speed, direction, depth etc ….  

 

Persistence has Raymarine i50/60 SDW instruments as well as a Raymarine A65 
chartplotter all networked together.  Watch is Samsung Galaxy watch (42mm), 
phone is Samsung S7 (Android).  Also interested in Apple watch apps since there 
are likely more of them

 

Thanks and looking forward to an interesting discussion

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[PETE SHELQUIST via CnC-List]

Luke -

I use the inner track for my light #1.  it's a bit of a nuisance since the car 
is not easily adjustable like the primary jib cars.  I still like it and 
believe it gives us a little more point.


to change jib cars to the primary track, either for the same sail or a headsail 
change, just run a second sheet (IE a changing sheet) through the new car and 
back to your secondary winch.   If you don't have secondaries, let go of the 
primary and grind in on new sheet as quick as you can. 


If the main is getting backwinded too much it's a sign that the inside track 
shouldn't be used.   If you're overpowered or at the wind limits of the sail is 
also a sign to change sails & track.


Hope that helps.


 

> On December 12, 2018 at 6:49 PM Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming 
> spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the 'upper' 
> genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the cockpit 
> coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet leads with 
> the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My question is how do 
> you transition from using a block here do the lower main track when you fall 
> off to a reach or downwind?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Luke wolbrink
> 1985 C 35-3 Mr. JJ
> Chicago, IL
> ___
> 
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> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

  
  


I can validate Fred’s comment.  Totally. 


Get Outlook for iOS

  



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 11:35 AM -0600, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:















Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really 
think.


 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
To: David via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not 
Mine!]
 
That’s 
Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI. 
 
If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   
 
— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the 
hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



  On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 
wrote:





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Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa sheets

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

  
  


Matthew-  what did you use for a mast fitting at the top of your 
babystay line?


Get Outlook for iOS

  From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 8, 2018 7:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa sheets On my 34, I rarely used the 
babystay, but did so occasionally for rough conditions so I did not want to get 
rid of it.  Because it was constantly in the way, I replaced the wire stay with 
a heavy-load, low-stretch line (much easier to deal with).  It seemed to work 
just as well.  



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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Wade- FWIW- I have yanmar 3HMF with 2.14 ratio transmission and 
flexofold recommended a 2 blade 16x11.  It's worked very well the last 10 yrs. 



Get Outlook for iOS
_
From: Wade Glew via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 12:45To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Wade Glew Subject: Stus-List Folding Propeller May I 
please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a folding 
propeller? I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 
RPMGear Ratio is 2, 62current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10 On 
Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller for 
your C 33 MK II sailboat."
GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  " 15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)
the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop 
and the cost is substantially higher.
I would appreciate any opinions
WadeOh Boy 33 MK II







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Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I have a pair of barient 28s I’ll sell you to use for parts


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On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 3:44 PM -0500, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
















I decided to clean my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winches today.  It was 
sunny and nice and I had been putting the project off for a while.  I did not 
think I would run into many problems, and that was a mistake.  I did, but won't 
go into those now.  Suffice to say, I did get the winch apart and was cleaning 
the parts and organizing them for reassembly, and discovered that one of the 
bearing had separated.  Though I recovered all of the parts and have them, I 
think reassembly may be very difficult, and even if I could reassemble the 
thing, I suspect that it may not hold together once the winch is operated, 
especially under load.
Does any one know where I might order new bearing or find new bearings for my 
Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch?  Any idea or help would be 
appreciated.  I would get the part number, but have to figure that out.
Sincerely,Glenn GambelWind N SpiritsC 36




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Stus-List Partnership creation

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

For a variety of reasons I’m considering starting a partnership with my 
Boat. In light of other conversations about buyout, etc. does anyone have 
suggestions, or sample contracts, I can use to make the relationship manageable 
?
ThxPete

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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Dan- I have Sailtec backstay that is completely self contained. 
 The factory told me to bring it inside in the winter and store it vertically. 
Something to consider once yours is repaired. 



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On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:21 AM -0500, "Daniel Cormier via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Will do- thanks guys, I'm glad it's only a regular maintenance thing :)

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2018, at 12:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid 
> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs 
> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked out 
> and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures as low 
> as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking is normal 
> with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my hydraulics 
> exposed to the harsh cold environment?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
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> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Mike - Lucky for you I have a pair of 28s for sale!



From: CnC-List  on behalf of mike amirault via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 3:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mike amirault
Subject: Stus-List Resleeving winches


My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing badly 
(the inside, not the outside).

The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was 
wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore out 
the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite bronze. I 
contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do this service for 
$400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to Australia and back would be 
out of the question.

Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?



Mike Amirault

C Lovely Cruise

SMSC


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Stus-List Selden sprit for sale!

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

For sale:  Alum 87mm x 7.5ft. Selden sprit
Inboard pad eye and 2x outboard fittings (rings etc). You can haveall the extra 
hardware I had custom made. 
$450 obo + shipping


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Re: Stus-List Handicapping Sprite and/or pole. Was Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

FWIW- I have a selden sprit for sale if anyone is interested.   
Email me for details. 



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On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 8:50 AM -0600, "Charles Nelson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










In NC-PHRF, you get a single rating which is based on your largest 
headsail/fastest kite with penalties if you have a sprit, oversized kite/jib > 
155%, etc. and independent of race configuration (W-L, distance, etc.). If you 
choose not to race with your largest jib or your biggest kite, your rating 
remains the same.FWIW and as others have mentioned, your local handicapping 
organization determines how these issues are handled.
Charlie Nelson1995 C XL/kcbWater Phantom

Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 1, 2018, at 8:25 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  
wrote:











Hi Chuck


 


I think that is a question you will have to ask your area handicap association. 
 In our area (Nova Scotia) and I believe in most other areas you make a single
 declaration of inventory / rig for an entire season.  In Nova Scotia you would 
have to declare sprit/asym, pole/sym or both.  Many areas allow the use of an 
asym tacked centerline at bow in addition to standard pole/sym spinnaker with 
no penalty.  Adding the
 sprit in addition to the pole setup incurs penalty adjustments based on how 
long the Total Sprit Length is in relation to J.


 


On the other hand if you were planning to enter a distance race the committee 
for that race may allow you a different setup for that race or series.  That 
would
 likely be at the discretion of trace organizers


 


Mike


Persistence


Halifax, NS


 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 2:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Chuck S

Subject: Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36




 


Eric,



Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole? I'm 
considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races.








On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
 wrote:



That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on sprit 
and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty.



 




Eric





 




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Stus-List Nexus Race

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Anyone run Nexus Race?  And tie in with instruments?



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Stus-List c 37

[pete shelquist via CnC-List]

The Trans-Superior race is starting this weekend in Sault Ste Marie, Ont and 
finishes in Duluth MN.  http://www.transsuperior.com/ .   

 

A new entrant this year is Mac McKenzie and his C, Worthy Pearl, out of 
Etobicoke, On.  Anyone on the list know him or the boat?  It’s great to see 
more competitors traveling up our way for this race.

 

thanks

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I put in a Garmin AP to drive a 3rd party hydraulic ram.  Simple and works 
great.  Plays well with B components I have.I did try Raymarine AP once.  
Never again.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:38 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

 

This is not a definitive answer but simply an observation.  I believe that 
keeping the hydraulics is probably achievable and a good choice.  They are 
pretty simple.  2 drive wires (+/-) and 2 directional wires (+/-).  From what I 
can tell that is normal.  You will have to find out how much current and what 
voltage the drive motor draws and ensure that it mates with the new drive 
controller...or rather ensure that you select a new drive controller that mates 
to your hydraulics drive.  You may find that you're rudder angle sender will 
need changed out... Mhe, no biggie.  If your flux gate compass still works fine 
you may be able to save a few bucks and some labor by reusing it.

 

It seems most of the list is fond of Raymarine products but I agree with the 
intuitive nature of Garmin products.  I suggest looking for a unit that is as 
forward and backwards compatibile as possible and does not employ proprietary 
controls.  I don't know all of the possible options but NMEA0183, NMEA2000, 
wifi, and SignalK would be on my wish list.  This will help minimize planned 
obsolescence.

 

Have you checked ebay or consignment shops for repair/replacement parts?  Might 
be easier and more cost effective.  Over the years I have amassed replacement 
parts for nearly all of my critical and high dollar components.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Jun 12, 2017 9:18 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

 

So, I have a couple questions:

 

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

 

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

 

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

 

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL 

(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  


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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

John – 

 

Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  

 

Others can probably provide more thoughts. 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BillBinaList 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 5:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

 

Have you determined that the display still locks up with that Radio out of the 
circuit? That seems like a logical first step.

Bill Bina

 

On 5/22/2017 10:37 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

I bought a Garmin wind instrument package a year ago and one of the displays is 
a GNX 20.

 

The display lock continuously. The on/off button does not work. I have to 
disconnect the power. 

 

Garmin says this display works flawlessly. They are trying to tell me the 
problems is because I have an ICOM M604 radio connected to the Garmin system.

 

I am having problem believing this because the M604 is NMEA 2000 compatible.

 

Has anyone had a problem with the GNX 20 display freezing?

 

Did you come up with a fix?

 

Thank you

 

John on Enterprise 33 Mk II

London Ontario

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Or are you missing any shackles on the backstay that could have been used as
spacers?  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

 

Hi Dave

 

Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been
moved aft further than desired?

 

Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the
halyard winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with
the rig on the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C the
spreaders are not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have
any jib or spin halyards attached to any point forward of the mast?

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 9:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

 

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked
on it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don't know what
is going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a
few inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very
loose.  I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried
to pull one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to
pin it.  I don't know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster
attached as there is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral
position until both backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let
off the mainsheet and vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and
cranked the boom down with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was
still very slack.  I loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still
could not pull it down enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I
rigged a mini block and tackle between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was
able to pull it down enough and hold it while I got the pin in.  With
another person there leaning on the wire, I might have been able to do it
without the block and tackle, but since the boat is in the water, it is hard
to get in position to pull on the wire and put the pin in at the same time.
I ran out of time to try the other side, but it seems like something is not
right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not changed anything related
to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very confusing.  I doubt C
designed it to be this hard and there would be no reason to since you could
just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for those who have other C
designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck level wood blocks to
adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  The mast goes
through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no rake
adjustment there.  

Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he
can help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it
sorted out.  Thanks- Dave

 

On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert  > wrote:

 

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no
adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of
the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle equally.

When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are loosened
off approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no problem.

I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on and
tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.

I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't use
a halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked at the
base, the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds tensioned,
my mast isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added protection but I
will never use one.

Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C - 84
Halifax, N.S. 



On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:

They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle
and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh's idea
to take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I
will take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly
loose as I had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with
shroud adjustment.  

1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will
go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the
pins back in with the 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I put in a webasto a couple years ago and it’s been working great. I’ve heard 
good things about the Wallas, but it’d didn’t fit well in my layout.  

 

I went with the smallest unit due to the fact that I have an open layout and I 
just need to take the edge off.  It’s better for the units to run and not short 
cycle.  I also didn’t have a lot of space to work with for mounting.  I think 
going up one size would have been a good idea- especially when working on the 
boat in the winter.

 

The heater can gain about 5F/hour and will keep the space about 15-20F above 
ambient.  I supplement the heat up time by kicking on the oven.I piped the 
return air from the space with no outside air.

 

Hope that helps.  Happy to answer any other questions.

 

Pete  

37

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasus38 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 8:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

 

I installed a Wallas on Pegasus 10 years ago. Have been very happy with it. Now 
have over 5000 hours on it still running strong. I like the Wallas because it 
is quiet. Doesn't sound like a jet taking off ( I hear enough of them at work). 

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy 

POYC 

Pegasus 

Lf38 

 

 Original message 

From: Andrew Means via CnC-List  > 

Date: 4/25/17 17:43 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Andrew Means  > 

Subject: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar) 

 

Hey all - 

 

Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air Heater 
(a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a propane/diesel/solid fuel 
fireplace-type heater?

 

The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene 
vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when 
guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly complex 
startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly shaped, and 
mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes to give full 
heat.

 

Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel fireplace 
type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to Diesel Air 
Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem like they could be 
a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the engine compartment, we 
get near instant heat, we already have (some) ductwork run, and it would run 
off our existing diesel fuel supply.

 

Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V 
(http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/ 

 ) - it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like 
another lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes me 
nervous.

 

Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?

 

Andrew

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Stus-List early 80s vintage HilleRange oven repair

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

So I'm trouble shooting my HilleRange oven and working with the guys over at
Sure Marine.   Sounds like I may need to send them the thermostat for
repair.

 

Anyone gone down this road?  Are there other options out there, other than
buy a new oven?

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Windex light for <$20 Now you want it in red?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Lee – 

You need to go out at night more.  A small red headlamp works great – I just 
don’t like wearing lamps all the time and, if available, am willing to try this 
as an alternative.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 4:22 PM
To: CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Lee Youngblood <leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windex light for <$20 Now you want it in red?

 

Hi Pete,

 

How short is your mast?  A tiny red light at 45 feet shining on a black arrow 
with a 2” red reflector would likely be very hard to see.

 

2 cents, Lee

 

On Dec 30, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Thanks for suggestion.   Has anyone found this in Red?  Or is there an option 
to put a red lens on?  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [ <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 9:00 AM
To: CnClist < <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. < <mailto:capt...@gmail.com> capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Windex light for <$20

 

Just for the record, Touche' has an installed Davis Windex light and I wouldn't 
do it any other way.  However, for someone looking for an inexpensive Windex 
light, I have a suggestion.

I got one of these for Christmas to use for working around the boat.

< 
<https://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-BBM888-2-Clamp-100-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B003ZK56CE>
 
https://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-BBM888-2-Clamp-100-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B003ZK56CE>

I got to thinking it might illuminate the Windex from the deck.  Tried it last 
night.  It REALLY illuminated the Windex.

I clamped it to the stern pulpit.  Had to use a rag to help it grip.

The tilt has click stops and the swivel is a bit loose so it took a bit of 
effort to get it aimed just right but it seemed to work fairly well. 

There may be other similar lights out there that will work better.  What the 
heck, if it doesn't make a good Windex light for you, you can still use it to 
work around the boat.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List frame parts and pieces

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Dave – 

Do you have a source for the cast fitting connecting the longitudinal pipes to 
the leg?  Or each leg to the spine?

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 10:56 AM
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Quinte cover

 

I had a cover made by Dennis at Quinte but my frame came with the boat.  It 
uses aluminum tubing.  In addition to the spine and ribs, I have vertical posts 
(5?) supporting the spine.   Also, there are longitudinal pipes running 
parallel to and around a foot above the sheer, clamped to each leg though an 
appropriate cast fitting.  this keeps the ribs from twisting.  Additionally, I 
bungee cord over that longitudinal to the toe-rail.   Seems to work.

 

just posted pics here:

 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/12/winter-cover-frame-photos.html

 

 

Better go check

 

Dave

windstar 33-2

 

 

 

 

 Forwarded message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike"  >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  " 
 >
Cc: 
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 15:54:54 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
Hi Len

I believe this is a Top Shop cover.  I have the same

There are two issues with ours when it comes to wet snow.
1. The snow sticks to the canvas
2. The ribs twist and allow the frame to collapse.

I have tried a couple of different tricks over the years.

To support the spine in the past I have used 2x4 supports in cockpit and on 
deck to help take the extra weight of the snow

For the twisting ribs where the feet of the legs seem to move to the side a new 
solution was suggested to me.  It can be done with pvc conduit or with 1x3 
strapping.  Run the new conduit or strapping under the ribs parallel to the 
length of the boat.  With the PVC conduit you can use ubolts to attach to the 
ribs along the way and with both the pvc and the wood  strapping you can also 
simply use electrical tape ( a lot of it).  Wrap the tape around the ribs where 
the strapping / conduit runs beneath it and run the strapping from the pushpit 
to the pulpit.   This will give resistance against the ribs from twisting.  I 
just did this 2 weeks ago and they are still straight.  Have not had any great 
amount of snow since then though (just a lot of rain while I was retying the 
cover).

Regardless of all this if you have a buildup of snow on the cover you should 
remove the snow from time to time.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
  http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:  
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mitchell's via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 11:41 AM
To: CNC List
Cc: Mitchell's
Subject: Stus-List Quinte cover

I have a Quinte canvas winter cover with a rigid aluminum frame made out of 3/4 
aluminum conduit. We have over 3 feet of snowfall so far and the frame 
collapses with heavy or wet snow. Does anyone have experience keeping their 
quinte frame upright? Thinking about zip ties to the lifelines.
Len
C 37+
Midland On.

Sent from my mobile device.

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Re: Stus-List Windex light for <$20

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Thanks for suggestion.   Has anyone found this in Red?  Or is there an option 
to put a red lens on?  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 9:00 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Windex light for <$20

 

Just for the record, Touche' has an installed Davis Windex light and I wouldn't 
do it any other way.  However, for someone looking for an inexpensive Windex 
light, I have a suggestion.

I got one of these for Christmas to use for working around the boat.



I got to thinking it might illuminate the Windex from the deck.  Tried it last 
night.  It REALLY illuminated the Windex.

I clamped it to the stern pulpit.  Had to use a rag to help it grip.

The tilt has click stops and the swivel is a bit loose so it took a bit of 
effort to get it aimed just right but it seemed to work fairly well. 

There may be other similar lights out there that will work better.  What the 
heck, if it doesn't make a good Windex light for you, you can still use it to 
work around the boat.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Alan – 

My panels are original and Velcro.  The only thing I’ve found to reattach the 
existing tape, or securely hold new, is epoxy.  I’ve tried so many different 
things I’ve lost track of all of them, but virtually everything else has failed 
within a year.  

 

It’s an aggressive solution, but I also don’t expect to remove the tape anytime 
soon.

 

Hope that helps,

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 10:47 AM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

 

I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth 
covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are 
screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended adhesive 
for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be appreciated.


 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

FWIW, my separate Garmin AIS and radio use one antenna.  The AIS has a built in 
splitter.  This is nothing new.  



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

I can't see any reason not to use a single antenna on vessels that are 
voluntarily equipped with AIS. Time will tell if the recreational market is big 
enough for someone to make a suitable rig. It ought to be, in my opinion. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Della Barba wrote: 
☹
That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the 
masthead antenna for both.
Dang!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to allow 
the GX2200 to transmit.  That takes a bunch more electronics, and also a lot of 
FCC certification.  If you look at the new VHF/AIS transceiver, it’s actually 
got TWO antenna connections on the back; one for VHF and one for AIS.  That 
would be tough to add to the GX2200…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk 1 Owners Manual

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ditto on the 37.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
BillBinaList via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2016 7:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk 1 Owners Manual

 

Worth asking Stu directly. I know I sent him a scan of the manual for the
27-5 many years ago, and it is not listed, either. 

Bill Bina

 

On 9/30/2016 11:03 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Really. Jerome, did you check the link sent from your iPhone?

There is no 35 mk-1 owners manual there. We're talking old school.

In the ol' days a sailor didn't need no friggin owners manual to know 'is
boat. yeah.

Cheers and fair rum, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
hardass

At 06:07 PM 30/09/2016, you wrote:



http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=227
 =434=show_detail 
C 35-1 Owners manual.  

Sent from my iPhone









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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot business!

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

You raymarine guys kill me.  Defend it to the end and drag others down when 
it's obvious that Ray falls short. I've been saying it for years: friends don't 
let friends buy raymarine. 
Dave/others; Per Garmin FAQ, Here's the solution if/when you decide to leave 
the raymarine dark side :
"The easiest way to update the device is to purchase a NMEA 2000 Network 
Updater and attach it to the NMEA 2000 network that the device is connected to. 
The updater will add an SD card slot to the NMEA 2000 network which will allow 
and update to be sent to the device. A blank SD card with at least 300MB up to 
2GB of space is also required.
To create the update SD card, please follow these instructions:
Download the latest update from the Marine Software Update Page to your 
desktopDouble-click the file on the desktopWhen the window titled Marine 
Product Software Update appears, click the Next buttonChoose the drive letter 
that is assigned to the SD card readerClick the Next buttonOnce the update is 
completed, click the Finish buttonTake the SD card and the NMEA 2000 Network 
Updater to the boat. To connect the NMEA 2000 Network Updater into the NMEA 
2000 network, please follow these instructions:
Connect the NMEA 2000 Network Updater's cable to the T-Connector it came 
withDisconnect two T-Connectors in the NMEA 2000 network on the boatConnect the 
Network Updater's T-Connector to both of the disconnected T-Connectors from 
step 2To update the NMEA 2000 network, power on the NMEA 2000 network and all 
accessories and insert the SD card into the NMEA 2000 Network Updater.
To know when the update is complete, please review the color of the LED on the 
NMEA 2000 Network Updater:
Red - Error, no card inserted, or no update on cardOrange - Update in 
progressGreen - Update completed successfullyOnce the update is complete, the 
SD card can be removed from the Updater and all Garmin NMEA 2000 connected 
devices and accessories will be up to date."
Boom. 


Get Outlook for iOS




On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 7:40 AM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










I think Dave’s gripe had more to do with upgrading things other than the MFD; 
things like instruments and autopilots.  And having to do those through an MFD 
from the same manufacturer.
I don’t think I’d want to be able to upgrade a Raymarine autopilot through a 
Garmin MFD; Garmin might just sabotage the process…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Sep 20, 2016, at 7:26 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  
wrote:
My ray eS7 does the same …… Paul FountainPerception II1985 C 33-II k/cbPort 
Credit Yacht Club From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot 
business! My Garmin GPSMap 740 plotter uses a SD Card to update firmware after 
downloading the file to the SD card from a computer which in turn gets the file 
from the internet. MikePersistenceHalifax, NS





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Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot and accessories for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I have a Raymarine autopilot and accessories for sale.  Ref link to ad and
note the OBO.  

 

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bpo/5702048189.html 

 

thanks,

 

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

If you have an adjustable backstay, that's probably the easiest way to
change tension in the rig and remove resonance.  The hum we get is usually
the forestay and this takes care of it nicely.

Pete
C 
Celebration


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian
Tirtirau via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 10:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Tirtirau
Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging

Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while
on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of
that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower
that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but
does not go away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C 37 Northern Light

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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing - now scoring systems

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

All -

For your local races, how many use PHRF vs ORC or other?  TOT vs TOD?

 

Thanks,

 



 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 Bow Assembly

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

James – 

I had to pull the one on my 37 two years ago.  Hard part is reaching up 
underneath to undo the nuts.  I also had to use some heat to get the pulpit 
out.  Local place sandblasted and powder coated the new one.

 

Are you doing toe rails too?

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JAMES 
LEMESURIER via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 3:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JAMES LEMESURIER
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 35 Bow Assembly

 

Has anyone had occasion to remove the bow assembly from a Landfall 35?   PO 
painted the one on my boat an unsightly brown (see photo at link below) and I 
would like to remove it in the fall, have it sandblasted and powder coated.  
Before I start the task, I would like to understand what is involved.

 

http://s312.photobucket.com/user/Techmaint/media/SISU/20120726_191006.jpg.html

 

James LeMesurier
Landfall 35- SISU

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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Or set the fan in the front hatch. Have it pull air from the boat and exhaust 
out. Little less noise in the boat and it pulls air through the whole boat. 

Sent from Outlook on my iPhone




On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 12:00 PM -0500, "Bill via CnC-List" 
 wrote:















This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan 
(120 VAC) on the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still 
can use the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain 
on the batteries.
 
Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
 
The only problem is if it rains
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
 

In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

  
  

I 
  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small 
  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side 
  L
  

Joe
  

Coquina
  

NOTE 
  TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store
  

 
  
  !





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Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Dan - 

This may be an indication that your batteries are shot.  The charger is
working to give them a juice and they're just not having it.   Take a look
at them before you change your charger.But also look for loose
connections.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

 


Hi Danny,

I like how you find it goes grey, most of your fellows call it gray. :)

Anyhow, the meter pegs over 30 amps, let's say 35 for this discussion... and
at 15 volts we're looking at something near 500 watts to the batteries. If
it's a 90 percent efficient battery charger then it has to dump 50 watts or
so into the surroundings.

For perspective and giggles, turn on a 40 watt light bulb and see how long
you can hang on to it. Yow!

A machine at 160 F, you can touch but not hold your hand on for very long,
180 F is tolerable for less than a second. From your description, I suggest
the battery charger is operating around 150 F if you can put pressure on it
with your hand. That is not a worry if it's like that for a few hours. I am
also assuming ambient cooling (no fan).

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:20 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:



Hi guys, 
When I turn the battery charger on it greys very warm.   The Guage pins all
the way past 30 amps.

It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold your hands on for very long.
The batteries are not warm and seem to have taken some charge over a couple
hours. 

It's this normal?   I don't like that heat...

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Re: Stus-List solar windex light

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Joel – 

Any updates on this?

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 6:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

 

 Local LED vendor is supposed to be making me a solar powered LED windex light 
with. Photocell.  We'll see if he does.

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List LMPHRF Certificates

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

They mailed out the first batch a month or so ago, but for some reason only 
half actually delivered.  They resent the whole batch last week. If you don't 
see something soon, call your local rep. 

Sent from Outlook on my iPhone




On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 1:38 PM -0700, "William Walker via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












Glenn, 

  Got mine in early May.  Sent in to lmphrf in January.  They are historically 
slow.   Where on the lake are you?

Bill Walker

CNC 36

Pentwater, Mi
On May 20, 2016 3:15 PM, Glenn via CnC-List  wrote:




LMPHRF Listers,
 
Have you received your LMPHRF Certificate for 2016 yet?  I applied during early 
February and still have not received my certificate.  Would appreciate any 
comments.  E-mailed LMPHRF, but have received no response yet.
 
Glenn Gambel
C 36
Wind N Spirits




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Stus-List solar windex light

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Joel – 

I’m very interested in something like that.   Let me know what happens.

 

Thanks,

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 6:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]

 

 Local LED vendor is supposed to be making me a solar powered LED windex light 
with. Photocell.  We'll see if he does.

 

Joel



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Stus-List Raymarine autopilot for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Anyone want to buy my old autopilot?  

 

. Raymarine smart pilot x30 - good for boats <= 33,000 lbs 

. ST6002 display

. smart talk converter e221581104455

. Raymarine wired auto helm remote 

. $900 total w/10% to Stu's List

Only thing you need to buy is the ram.

 

Full disclosure:  I was having problems with unit last fall.  I sent the
SPX-30 controller into Raymarine and it tested out ok, so I suspect it was
the ram tripping out.  I replaced everything this winter and was never able
to determine the exact fault.

 

Capacity wise this unit is bigger than the current Evo-200 unit (24,000 lb
vessel and $2000 retail).  I oversized the unit for my boat to compensate
for any aggressive marketing on Raymarine's part and to have a little factor
of safety.  

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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ditto, especially for long offshore.  Careful, it will freeze your beer.
The box can handle the low temperatures without cracking.  If concerned,
figure out a way to keep the ice from direct contact with the box.

 

With regard to carbon dioxide build up;  the volume of CO2 would have to
fill the icebox and then spill over into the cabin area.  With the amount of
air moving through boat on any typical day, it's highly likely to flush out
a good % of the CO2 .

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 1:57 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"

 

We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption
down.   Never had a problem.   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: primeinter...@gmail.com

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in
the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed 

QCYC Toronto

On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
ice.


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the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 
 

Virus-free.
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Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Paul - 
Every few years I take the covers off and wash them.  Also spray the foam to
reduce odor.  Biggest issue is sometimes the zippers break during the
pull-off process and I take the piece over to the local shop to repair.

Someday I will replace the foam and covers, just not this day.  Too many
other priorities.  

There's nothing wrong with making due.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul
taylor via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul taylor
Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions

I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can
be washed without shrinkage ?
I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam inside.


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Sounds like the PO may have been misinformed, or overly cautious, and figured 
more is better.  

 

Someday will someone explain to me the concept/theory of a ground loop?  I’m 
looking at you Fred.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?

 

Did the boat ever have a shortwave radio?

 

Was a previous owner afraid of a lightning strike?

 

Just guessing.

 

Ken H.

 

On 7 April 2016 at 18:20, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  wrote:

Hey everyone, 

I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat.  The wiring was in 
frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was corroded 
and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I didn't like 
the looks of.  So, I ripped it all out and started anew with a whole bunch of 
Ancor marine wire, a BlueSea panel, BlueSea fuse blocks, and went about 
re-wiring.

All negative wires connect back to the nut at the back of my A4 motor, which is 
also connected to my battery negatives.  All good.

However, there is one large gauge (maybe 10 gauge?) old wire going from the nut 
on the back of my A4 to a nut attached to a metal plate that is attached to the 
outside of the hull.  This metal plate is located slightly forward and to 
starboard of the front of the A4.  Another wire coming from the nut over this 
metal plate is also connected to a keel bolt.

I don't see this plate or wire on the original C wiring diagram for the boat. 
 And from what I know, having more than one negative point outside the hull 
will create a ground loop.  

Any thoughts on why someone did this?  

Thanks, 

Ryan

Nobody's Bargain

1976 C 30 mki

New York

 


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Stus-List Western Lake Superior CnC Rendezvous

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ok, I’ll jump on the band wagon…

 

Fred/Neil – want to meet at the Bayfield Creamery for a Western Lake Superior 
rendezvous?  I’ll buy the first round.   FYI - I hear 3-5” came down yesterday 
and a couple more due tomorrow.   

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Bousfield via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 6:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Bousfield
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lake Michigan CnC Rendezvous

 

Muskegon Yacht club might be a good place also.

John & Marjolein 

dutch girl

Spring Lake, MI

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016, wwadjo...@aol.com  wrote:

Any Lake Michigan listers interested in a LM meet up?  Pentwater Mi Would be 
central.  So would Wisconsin shore.  Just sayin' we can't let the coasters have 
all the fun!  

Bill Walker

Evening Star

CnC 36

Pentwater, Mi.

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet

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Re: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ryan – 

With the low voltage and amperage you’re dealing with, any double pole, double 
throw (DPDT) toggle switch should work.   Radio Shack (if they still exist), or 
other electronics store will have them.   Maybe a local hardware store?  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Solar charger selector switch

 

Hey everyone, 

I have a small 6 watt Ganz solar panel which does a very nice job of keeping my 
starter battery and my house battery topped up.  The only trouble is, when I 
want to switch which battery I'm charging, I have to open the locker, open the 
battery box, disconnect the + and - connectors from one battery and switch them 
to the other.

My question is - is there some type of A/B switch that will allow me to just 
hook + and - from both batteries to it and select which battery gets the juice 
from the panel?

This is my solar charger.  It's a really great little piece of equipment. 
http://www.amazon.com/CBC-GSP-6-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B006GFPF30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
 

 =1459958952=8-1=ganz+solar

 

 

Ryan

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Re: Stus-List Garmin Gwind

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Not personally, wish I did.  A number of boats in our area have them and
have spoken highly, especially at low air speeds.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Alessi via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 7:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi
Subject: Stus-List Garmin Gwind

 

Hey there,

Anybody have any experience with the Gwind wireless or Gwind cable
transducer?

 

Tom Alessi
ANDIAMO

C 36, 1980

Rockaway Beach, NY
tagraph...@optonline.net

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ditto.  It’s the only instrument I have at the wheel.   I kept the navpod base 
fitting loose so it can be turned to either side or forward for better viewing.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2016 7:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

 

I mounted mine on a Navpod on the pedestal guard on my C 35 Mk II.

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 8:36 PM, Annette Reesor via CnC-List 
 wrote:

We have purchased a wheel pilot for our 1976 C 33, but are wondering where 
others have installed the control head?  The T shaped cockpit doesn't seem to 
have much 'free' space.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Annette


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Stus-List sleeper factor

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

“sleeper factor” is an interesting comment and touches a nerve with me.   The 
comment we get mostly is we have a “gift rating”.  Seems when we do well in 
races our rating is a gift.  However if we do poorly, we didn’t sail well.
Whatever.   I’m tired of other boats being sailed poorly and using gift rating 
as an excuse.  The never ending problems with PHRF, I guess.

 

Sorry for the rant.  Long week. 

 

-  Pete and his screaming, PHRF busting, 1984 straight up 37 

 

 

 

 

On 18 March 2016 at 10:15, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Same story with the 34+

..The "Sleeper" factor far outweighs the snob appeal of a bigger number on 
the badge any day in my book. 




 

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Re: Stus-List Cushions smell

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

We used a product called " capture" that worked well. I believe we found it at 
a Home Depot 

Sent from Outlook on my iPhone




On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 4:12 PM -0800, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Baking soda and pet and toddler odor remover. Just went through the same thing 
on a delivery and found a couple of products on the market. The pet odor stuff 
we found at Walmart and it really did the trick, actually got rid of rather 
than masked the smell.
AndyC 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA    02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Feb 25, 2016, at 18:44, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List  
wrote:




I have an odor of diesel in all of my cushions. It is not a strong smell, when 
you first go below it is more revelent - after you are there for awhile it is 
not as bad. If anyone has had a similar problem and solved the issue, I would 
love to know how. Obviously, a total replacement would work. The Admiral 
refuses to sleep on the boat because of the odor. I have taken the cushions off 
for the winter and steam cleaned one and sprayed it with Fabreeze, not much 
different.
 
Tom Vincent
Frolic II C 36 cb
Chesapeake City, MD 
  
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Stus-List Octopus linear drive

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

All - 

I need to replace my autopilot ram and am considering the Octopus 1212LAR12.  
Anyone have installation or use experience with the brand?  At a recent boat 
show the only input I had was from competitors that stated the units are loud.  

 

Also, I made a quick search in my saved emails and did not find any previous 
references.  Please forward if you have something.

 

Thanks,

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Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill – I’ve raced with an asym for the last 5 years.  I looked closely at the 
top down spin furlers at a recent boat show.  They are expensive and, I’m told, 
not overly reliable (yet).  If looking for a way to tame a spin, I was directed 
by multiple sources to a sock.  ATN specifically.   

 

Charlie – short answer is I believe that comment is incorrect, or more likely, 
out of date.  

 

Here’s the long answer: The biggest deficit for Asym on boats like ours is 
racing W/L courses in a blow.  In our area LMPHRF has a rating credit based on 
D/L that helps negate some of this.  In lighter air, boats reach more and 
sailing angle is negligible.  However, when the wind picks up and sym boats 
pole back, that’s when we suffer the most.  Ironically in distance races, where 
we like to play, we take a rating hit for an asym.I’m told LMPHRF has a 
unique system compared to other regions.   

 

Considering ease of use, required # crew, efficiency, etc,  I think an asym is 
a much better deal.  Especially for distance races or racing cans in a light 
air area.  Heavy air buoy racing = sym.   

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 3:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

 

I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a 
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not 
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing. 

 

Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?

 

Charlie Nelson

C 36XL

New Bern, NC

 

  cenel...@aol.com

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bill Coleman <  colt...@verizon.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2016 4:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List ProFurl Spinex

Well, PHRF-LE just allowed a foot extension for A-Sails with no penalty, so, I 
see a new stemhead fitting with a foot long bow roller in the future for the 
Coltrek.

 

Has anyone had any experience with these Profurl Spinex spinnaker furlers with 
the roller balls on the torsion rope? 

And Defender just happens to have some of these on sale . .. 

 

  
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2358486|2358488=2073636

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Steve – 

We’re on Lake Superior and have a little bit bigger space to heat with our 37.  
 I went with a Webasto 2000 last year.  There is only a single outlet in the 
space with the return air also ducted to the space – IE we don’t have fresh air 
makeup.  If I could figure out a good way to duct a vent in the vberth, that 
would be a good add.  I found we get around 10 degree rise per hour.  So 
getting the space from 30-60 will take 2-3 hrs.  It stays pretty comfortable - 
when my crew keep the hatch closed.  

 

Our use/size calculation per the website was in between two sizes and I went 
with a smaller one.  I really only need to take the edge off and dry out gear.  
Also, the less physical space available and lower power consumption were a 
factor.   These things are like diesel engines and like to be run, so having it 
going full bore when it is on is a good thing.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

 

Thanks Ken, after doing some more reading it sounds like their 26 foot 
recommendation for the D2 is for a power boat, which of course is more 
voluminous than my old C :)

 

>From searching this list it sounds like a single outlet into the cabin works 
>best. Curious if any other 32 owners have installed a forced air diesel and 
>how they routed the install. 

 

Cheers,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

 

 

 

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:25 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Our Espar D4 will bring the entire boat interior up to a comfortable 
temperature when the boat is out of the water on its cradle and the temperature 
outside is below freezing. This is a 39' 6" C 37 XL with a fairly roomy aft 
cabin.

 

I expect you can get away with a D2 on a 32.

 

Ken Heaton
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/

 

On 5 February 2016 at 15:41, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi All,

 

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one on a 
32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The literature 
indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(

 

My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard in 
the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance" trips in 
the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up 
there. 

 

I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard with 
us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so it 
shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night, even in 
August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I have ideas 
about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are out. I don't 
want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could 
go elsewhere. 

 

The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they don't 
make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't want to be 
disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best. 

 

I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from 
others who have gone through it. 

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

 

 

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Stus-List chicago boat show

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

FYI - If anyone from the list will be at the Chicago boat show Saturday, a
small contingent of C from Bayfield, WI will be there. Let me know if
you're interested in putting a face to a name.
 
Pete



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Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Josh – 

I’ve used lemon oil and have not had any mildew issues.  However, we do try to 
ventilate the boat well.  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 8:07 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew?

 

Ok, so under the advise of this list I used lemon oil at the beginning of the 
2015 season.  I chalked up the mildew this last fall to the unusually high 
humidity and excessive rain.  That was until this evening when someone told me 
that they had heard that the lemon oil gave the mildew something to eat.

Before I re-oil with lemon oil, anybody have any thoughts on this mildew theory?

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

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Stus-List boat shows

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Disturbing trend in shows.  I looked at the vender list for the Chicago 
strictly sail –now mostly RVs and powerboats.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List New York Boat Show -- January 9+10, 2016

 

No. Unless you're interested in electronics or engines.  Even the sail 
manufacturers don't attend any longer.  I sit every year at the USPS booth and 
each year there is less for sailors.   

 

 

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Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Jon 
If you are looking for a very affordable, ok shape North Dacron 155 for
straight up 37, look no further.  I can help you out.  

#6 luff tape.  No UV cover.  Low shipping charges from Minneapolis to
Muskegon.


I can't help you if you have your heart set on new, crisp, high performance
model.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jon Tasker
Subject: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants
$5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity.
Anyone got any suggestions.
Jon Tasker 
C 37
Muskegon MI

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I agree with you Andy.  I cruise/race both solo and with crew and have kept
the Main, jib and spin halyards at the mast.  I need to be forward to hook
everything up anyway and this configuration saves time/energy.

I tried single line reefing and it was a pain in the butt for the reason you
stated.  I kept reefing at the mast too.  

Vang, mainsheet, traveler, asym tackline, spin and jib sheets are in
cockpit.

One can crack off if it is too lumpy to easily move around up front, then
get back on course once everything is squared away.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 7:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Lines led forward

I wonder, am I alone in the group leading lines forward? The only lines I'm
going to have coming aft to the cabin top will be the mainsheet and the
traveler lines...and I'm thinking of eliminating the traveler all together.
I just don't want all that extra spaghetti in the cockpit. Bulkheads are for
leaning against on my cruising boat! 
I hate single line reeling; there's just too much friction in the system for
boats over 30' so I'm going to be at the mast when I reef, anyway. And I
want to be there to see how the sail comes down or clear any fouls as it
goes up, so I like being forward to hoist and drop the halyard.
This whole business of leading everything aft started with singlehanded race
boats and for good reason, given how they sail. But my autopilot--or
wife--keeps the boat head-to-wind just fine as I hoist.
So what's the opposite thinking from the assembled brain trust here?
Hope everyone has a very merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New Year
filled with lots of wonderful days sailing.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Fred – 

Try it, you’re only out $75 if it doesn’t work.  Then with your experience, 
I’ll be that much smarter when replacing mine.

 

Don’t worry about the technology – fuel pumps are a lot different than a Li 
battery.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 10:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Wabasto furness

 

I need to replace the dosing pump on my Wabasto airtop 3500/ 5000 furness.   I 
can buy a Wasbasto replacement for about $200 or a Chinese one for about $75 on 
ebay. I am looking for listers feelings about using the knock off  pump .

 

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  

 

I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one out 
there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal with 
cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, I 
have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:

 

#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too hard 
and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a different 
expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing the stuff 
is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a sharp 
blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was rip up 
the gel coat.

 

#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood (or 
other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and you 
will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.

 

#3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit set 
to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.

 

#4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low 
density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel 
coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows are 
out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 

 

#5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router bit 
(sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in half 
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template).  I ran 
the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t slide in either direction 
with respect to each other.  It does a very nice job and is quite easy.  I then 
used a 1/8” round off router bit on the outside edge of the new window for 
cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room 
for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.

 

#6.  I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around where 
I wanted the window to go.  This would help me locate the window and provide 
the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.  I also masked the edge 
of the new window for the same reason.

 

#7.  Now cones the tricky part.  You only get one shot with the VHB tape, 
because once it is down, it is not coming up.  I tried adhering two small 
pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape, and I 
can assure you, you won’t pull them apart.  VHB is amazing stuff.  As a guide, 
I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the window with a 
small piece of VHB tape.  By attaching it to the masking tape, I was sure I 
could get it back off.  Actually, VHB doesn’t stick very well to masking tape 
anyway.  I also stuck a small wooden block to the masking tape at one end of 
the window as well.  This allowed me to set the window on the two bottom block 
and then slide it over to the end block before pushing the window into place.  
By all means, make several trial runs with the film still on the VHB tape 
before removing the film.  Once the film is off you are committed.  I pushed 
the window in place and it looked perfect.  Then it is simply a matter of 
squirting the Dow Corning stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a 
finger.  As soon as the silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking 
tape and pour yourself a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.

 

#8.  There was concern expressed that the VHB tape would be visible through the 
window, and it was 

Re: Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad? with great lakes twist

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Fred – 

Does it provide currents for the Great Lakes?

 

FYI - At times I encountered up to 1 knt during the Trans.  It would be nice to 
have a tool to help predict that.

 

Thanks,

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2015 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad?

 

Yup, I’ver got the Nobeltec TZ for iPad; it’s got decent currents on it.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

[Pete Shelquist]  

 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Gary – 

I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a dremel 
oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be careful, but it 
worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be repair work needed to 
the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work and will install a new 
lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds.  

 

Holler if you have questions.

Pete

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Gary,

 

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

 

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Hi Doug,

 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

 

Gary

S/V High Maintenance

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Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I’m trying to save myself some time and not reinvent the wheel:  Does anyone 
have a spreadsheet for converting race results from TOD to TOT?

 

>From the results I have PHRF rating and Elapsed Time in D:HH:MM:SS format.  

 

Thanks,

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Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Good write up Dennis – 

I installed one and sailed with it in the 2014 season.  I would add a couple 
items to your review;

1.   Watch the diameter of sprit.   If one has a roller furler, you’ll need 
clearance between it and the deck

2.   In a blow, there is a lot of lift on the front deck fitting.  Careful 
review of the deck should be done in case reinforcement is needed.  I noticed 
weakening in the area even with the addition of a bobstay.

 

Thanks,

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:25 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

 

Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today.  Interesting piece of 
equipment.  Simple design but effective.

Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides in/out 
through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting clips onto 
in the retracted or extended position.  The tack line passes through the pole 
exiting through each of the end fittings.  The base of the ring is offset so 
you can mount the ring closer to center line while the pole extends to one side 
of the forestay.  We had to make a StarBoard base to lift the ring a bit so the 
sprit pole would clear a tack fitting.  Simple install.  took about 3 hours.

Couple things to watch out for.  First, the kits are offered in several 
diameters.  As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer allowed 
extension beyond the ring for bigger boats.  Be sure to order one large enough 
to get the extension you need.  Second, check with your local handicap 
organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure the extended 
dimension.  Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is tacked low to the 
deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to have the tack cut a bit 
to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck on one side of the forestay). 

The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes.  However, you can install more at 
different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from the 
bow or measure point.

The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below.  This is good for boats with 
an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the sprit.

 

Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different 
measurements.  

We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point.  That 
way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when going upwind.

I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested.

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Re: Stus-List outboard size

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

With the small and light mindset, does anyone have input on the small electric 
Torqeedos? They are a spendy.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 1:43 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List outboard size

 

IMHO there are two ways to go with an outboard:

Go big or go tiny.

I have a 15 HP 2 stroke Evinrude I really like. We can do 18-20 knots with 3-4 
people in the dinghy and we can two a tube with a kid or two at planning speeds.

If I were to have a dinghy that needed the engine removed to tow or put away, I 
would get the lightest engine I could find. You can scavenge Craigslist and 
sooner or later find a 2-3 HP two stroke that might weight 20-30 pounds. If you 
can’t plane anyway, no use wasting gas and engine weight with being close to 
planning vs. really not planning. I had a 2.5 HP Honda years ago that did fine 
for getting around at low speeds.

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

Avon 340 RIB 

 

BTW – to the lister that was thinking about a 9.9 HP for the Bahamas. Don’t do 
it. I would really be looking for a 15 HP two-stroke instead. Same weight – or 
less – and vastly more speed with a load or in rough weather.

IMHO and YMMV

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 1:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List outboard size

 

The J-80 I race on uses a Honda 2hp 4 stroke. Moves along quite nicely, but 
vibrates. The J-24 has a Tohatsu 3 hp two stroke and also moves along nicely. I 
would think anything 2 hp or more would move your inflatable well, just don't 
expect to plane.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List   

To: CnClist   

Cc: Dennis C.   

Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 12:46 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List outboard size

 

One night we had rowed our inflatable dinghy to a neighboring boat for dinner.  
During dinner the wind came up.  Our boat owner friend towed us back to our 
boat with his dinghy with 2.5 hp Tohatsu.  It was a little bit of a struggle 
but the little Tohatsu did the job.

I have a used 80's Evinrude 7.5 that will plane my 9'4" dinghy.  However, if I 
was buying a new one, I'd definitely go much smaller.  I think a 2.2-2.5 hp 
would be fine.

The last 3-4 years I haven't even put the OB on the dink, preferring instead to 
row and avoid the hassle of installing/removing the heavy OB.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 11:32 AM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Ls and Gs

Can you help me? I have recently bought an 8ft inflatable as tender and am 
looking at second hand outboard options. Can you advise me of adequate size 
required? Specifically I have seen a 2,2 hp advertised. Will that be enough to 
potter to the dock and back? The safety sticker on the boat says up to 5hp but 
that seeems a bit much and heavy.

Thanks and regards

Mike Jones

Seanachai, 1981 C 34

Victoria


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  _  

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Re: Stus-List Which type of bottom paint do I have?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Sounds like VC Tar.  I don't believe they still make it, but it was applied
as an undercoat to VC17...if I recall correctly.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List Which type of bottom paint do I have?

Hi all - had to remove some paint for repairs and realize that he bottom
will need at least a touch up.
Paint smells a Bit like burnt rubber when the grinder hits it, and it smears
rather than stripping off in dust or chips.  Clearly a soft film, black in
Color.  
No resistance to acetone at all.  Dissolves in the fumes I think. 
 Any idea what this stuff is?   Thanks.  

Dave.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Rich –

The SPX-30.  Ray tech support has it - Not repairable, but is replaceable.   
It’s not worth going into detail on dealing with tech support to get to this 
conclusion, but it wasn’t great.  However, congratulations on your whack of 
systems with few problems.

 

I don’t have any hydraulics – AP ram or other, so it doesn’t apply to me and I 
didn’t intend to infer it would work with all systems, if that’s your point.  
Because it doesn’t apply doesn’t mean it should be discounted either.  It is 
clever engineering.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

 

Pete:

 

Out of curiosity, what “died” in your Raymarine system? I have owned and 
installed a whack of these systems and have had very few problems over the 
years. 

 

Also, unless I’m suffering more than usual today, the Garmin Shadow Drive will 
only work when installed in the line from a helm pump in a fully hydraulic 
steering system. It will not work on a cable driven system such as that found 
in most C sail boats. Nice idea, but….

 

Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





 

On Oct 9, 2015, at 06:56, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 

Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.

 

I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.

 

#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Edd Schillay < <mailto:e...@schillay.com> e...@schillay.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 

 

My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 

 

The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

 <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 











 






 

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.

 

I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.

 

#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 

 

My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 

 

The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 











 





 

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Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Mark Janda is in Bayfield WI.  He has a C named Red Hawk located at Port 
Superior.

 

I know him well and will get him in contact with James and Rick.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

Rick — is that Bayfield, Wisconsin, or Bayfield, Ontario?  I’m not familiar 
with Mark, but I can check around this weekend.

 

Haulout tomorrow…   :^(


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Oct 8, 2015, at 9:10 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Stu, I’d appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James’ message prompted me 
to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a 
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a 
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a propane 
locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol stove on my 
boat to propane.

 

Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance you 
know him and can get him to contact James and me?

 

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Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Petar - 

I gave Mark your contact info also.   You should hear from him directly.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

I'm sort of in a same boat.  I can't log into photoalbum to contact Mark
Janda.  Retrieve password or register gives me a PHP error.  I would be
interested in  Garhauer solid vang and fittings.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Stus-List Photo album ads & other stuff

 

Stu, I'd appreciate contacting Mark Janda as well. James' message prompted
me to look at the Photo Album ads for the first time in a while, and I see a
couple of items for my 38 that I could probably use. I tore up my RF 140 a
couple of weeks ago, and I see that he has two for sale. Plus I see a
propane locker, which it what I need to make the switch from the alcohol
stove on my boat to propane.

 

Fred, the ads say he is parting out a 38 in the Bayfield area. Any chance
you know him and can get him to contact James and me?

 

BTW, Stu: My password to the Photo Album site got lost in a hard drive crash
some months ago. When I tried the link for a lost password on the login
screen for the classifieds this morning, I got an error message. Is that
part of the problem you are addressing?

 

And BTW, everyone: A friend with a 38 Landfall wants to convert the CNG
installation installed by the PO to LP. I seem to recall that some time ago
one of the listers had an LP tank enclosure designed for installation under
the seat of a 38LF (which would not fit the space available in my 38-2). If
you are still on the list and have the enclosure, let me know and my friend
will be in touch.

 

And BTW, while I'm thinking of it: While converting to LP is on the project
list (I already have the stove), I am still using the 40 year old Galley
Maid pressurized alcohol stove. One of the burners developed a pinhole leak,
and when I took the burner to a local shop to have the leaking tube brazed,
they managed to close off the tube completely. Can anyone point me to a
source for burners and parts for these old stoves? Or has anyone got a
Galley Maid alcohol stove out in the garage that they would like to sell? 

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List garmin announcement

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

FYI from a recent Garmin press release…

 

  2015 
NMEA Product Award logo
Last week we received the honor of being the most recognized company in the 
marine electronics field by the National Marine Electronics Association (NMEA) 
at the prestigious 2015 NMEA Convention in Baltimore, Md. Garmin was named 
Manufacturer of the Year and received awards in four product categories: 
autopilot, multi-function display (MFD), mobile application—aid to navigation, 
and mobile application—end user utility.

For the third year in a row, we received an award in the autopilot category for 
its GHP Reactor Hydraulic Autopilot with SmartPump. The GHP Reactor was our 
first recreational autopilot system to utilize AHRS technology and boasts the 
usability, installation flexibility, and many other features that prove to be 
valuable for any vessel.

We also took home top honors in the MFD category. The accolades went to the 
GPSMAP 7616, a 16-inch multi-touch widescreen chartplotter designed for 
mariners who demand high performance, ease of operation and feature 
integration. The GPSMAP 7616 comes preloaded with both BlueChart g2 coastal and 
LakeVü HD inland maps, and is fully network compatible for support of radar, 
autopilot, instruments, multiple screens, sensors, remote sonar modules, 
digital switching, thermal cameras, and more.

In today’s connected world, smartphone applications are essential tools for 
mariners. At this year’s awards, new marine app categories were added and both 
apps offered from Garmin won their respective categories. Garmin BlueChart 
Mobile, a route planning application with streaming weather capabilities, was 
named the best mobile application aid to navigation. And earning the top spot 
in the mobile application for end user utility was Garmin Helm, an application 
that allows mariners to view and control their chartplotter from a smartphone 
or tablet.

Our portfolio includes some of the industry’s most sophisticated chartplotters 
and touchscreen multifunction displays, sonar technology, high-definition 
radar, autopilots, high-resolution mapping, sailing instrumentation and other 
products and services that are known for innovation, reliability and 
ease-of-use.

 

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Re: Stus-List Best n2k GPS receiver?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Fred – 

That’s one.  

 

J

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 2:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best n2k GPS receiver?

 

Dave — take a look at the Simrad GS25 GPS sensor: 
http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-US/Products/GPS/GS25-en-us.aspx 
 

 

Priced under $200.  It comes with a 15-foot NMEA2000 cable and Micro connector 
to plug into a ”T” on a standard NMEA2k backbone.

 

A nice bonus is the fast 10Hz heading data you get out of the onboard magnetic 
compass; if you don’t have an autopilot to supply fast heading data, this will 
still allow you to do reliable radar overlay on your plotter.

 

See, Pete — I don’t ALWAYS suggest Raymarine…   :^)

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

 

On Sep 12, 2015, at 1:34 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

 

Hello all.  Working through the details of my winter electronics upgrade and am 
trying to select a standalone nmea 2000 GPS receiver.  (Like Garmin 19x, 
raymarine rs130).  I  cannot find any comparisons or reviews, has anyone been 
down this path?  Thanks!

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Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Danny – 

The advice Mike gives re: 740 is very good.   Coincidently, I also happen to 
have one for sale.  

 

Pete

 

 

 

On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 8:16 AM,  wrote:

From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: 
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2015 12:34:49 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

Danny

 

Purchase Navionics Boating HD for your tablet while it is still available.  It 
is supposed to be discontinued very soon and may have been discontinued already

 

We have a Garmin GPSMAP 740 at the helm.  It is extremely useful when going 
anywhere and on the size boat you are purchasing is almost a necessity.  A 
tablet in the cockpit is not nearly so robust and very prone to breakage and 
power loss, especially in any sea condition

 

We just returned from the Bras d’Ors Lakes in Cape Breton, NS.  The total 
return delivery was approx. 170NM.  I have a Windows Surface 2 (RT version) 
with the Boating HD app.  This in fact is now permitted to be on board in place 
of paper charts as is the same charting information.  We also had all the paper 
charts along the way and also a Raymarine A65 small chartplotter at the Nav 
station.  For plotting my courses I used the Surface tablet and then noted each 
of the waypoints and plugged them into my chartplotters.  I found using the 
tablet for course plotting extremely useful and much simpler than the paper 
chart with dividers etc …  I also found that having the waypoints in my 
chartplotter at helm almost a necessity.  

 

My 0.02

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS

 

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Stus-List Raymarine SPX 30

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Anyone ever get the error message “Pilot S Reset” from their Raymarine 
autopilot?  I have an SPX 30 that won’t run for more than a couple minutes and 
resets to standby with the above message.

 

I checked all the manuals I have and the only description is that it’s an 
internal error.  No tech support response yet either- Classic.  

 

Thanks,

 

 

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Stus-List Self leveling Radar mount

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I'm reviewing a couple different types of self-leveling radar mounts for a
pole.  Seaview and Scanstrut are two that I'm finding.  Anyone have
experience with either, or yet another brand?

 

Thanks,

 

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Re: Stus-List anchor roller

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ditto

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kurt
Heckert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 9:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kurt Heckert
Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller

 


I also would like to see those pictures, my 35 mkII does not have a bow
roller or a chain locker.

My email address is kurt_heck...@att.net

 

  _  

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 
Cc: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller 
Sent: Wed, Aug 19, 2015 12:43:37 AM 

 


Ditto

 

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


On Aug 17, 2015, at 19:53, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:return  wrote:

 

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Stus-List 37 icebox rebuild

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Dave - 

.   I also have a 37 ('84) and just did a quick review of your Ronin refit
site.  Have you tackled the re-insulation of the ice box?  It's been on my
list for a couple years and I'm thinking about putting it on the list this
winter.

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2015 10:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

 

Not sure about space underneath the quarter-berth on a LF38 but like Bill on
Starfire, the 37' has a similar setup.

 

I've rebuilt
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/starting-battery-locker-redesign.h
tml  my starter battery area underneath the quarter-berth and although I
only have a single starting battery per the original configuration, I made
sure that the new shelf would allow for a second battery should I go that
route.

 

That said, I yanked the old Raritan hot-water heater and replaced it with a
new Isotherm unit thereby freeing up more space.

 

Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ 's Overdue Refit

 

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Stus-List Regulator for force10 grill

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I need to replace the reg on an old force 10 grill.  Model HA-011.  Only thing 
I've found similar is on a Dickinson @ defender.  Local hardware store has 
nothing. Any other suggestions?

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Stus-List 2015 trans-superior

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Another trans-superior is in the books.  Not all finishers are recorded yet, 
but CCs did well.
Trans results here:http://www.transsuperior.com 
http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_results_detail.cfm?Race_Number=1

Lots of fun racing up on superior.  Those in the area are welcome to jump in 
any time. Bayfield to Silver Bay Scramble is Aug 22.  Drop me a note for 
details.
Bayfield racing info:http://wyc.org/ais/Home.aspx

Sent from Outlook___

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Re: Stus-List 2015 trans-superior

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred.  The real story is Don on the 115.  He sailed really well against 
a bunch of tough boats.   I got to know him at the soo.  Good guy. 
Watching the v70 was amazing.  The speed is jaw dropping.  He was out of sight 
in 30 mins. 

Sent from Outlook

_
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2015 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2015 trans-superior
To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net


   And it looks like Pete grabbed first in PHRF C — congrats!!!  Not every 
day up on Superior you get to race against a Volvo 70…   :^)  

  
Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V  Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 

  
  On Aug 6, 2015, at 7:48 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   Another trans-superior is in the books.  Not all 
finishers are recorded yet, but CCs did well.   
   Trans results here:   
http://www.transsuperior.com    
http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_results_detail.cfm?Race_Number=1  
 
   
   Lots of fun racing up on superior. Those in the area are 
welcome to jump in any time. Bayfield to Silver Bay Scramble is Aug 22. Drop me 
a note for details.   
   Bayfield racing info:   
http://wyc.org/ais/Home.aspx___

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Stus-List island planet sails

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

 Anyone have experience with Island Planet sails?   More specifically the
composite sails?

 

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Wow, must be Friday.My fingers have a mind of their own.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport

 

Joel wouldn’t let us have wine on the boat last year…   :^)

 

That Tripp that went inshore had been doing a half knot better than the leaders 
at times; but it looks like everyone else if heading offshore and picking up 
some wind now.

 

PredictWind might give you what you’re looking for.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jun 5, 2015, at 2:13 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Anyone have access to the wine/waves that they’re seeing now?

 

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Stus-List rig tuning

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

A comment was made to me the other day that if an insurance company sees split 
rings at the rigs turnbuckles (vs cotter pins) that coverage will be null and 
void.  I found nothing in my policy stating this detail.  

 

Anyone else ever hear of this?

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

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Stus-List webasto parts

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I’m looking for specific Webasto parts.  Does anyone have name/number of 
marinas that install air heaters and carry parts?

 

Thanks,

 

 

   

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Re: Stus-List webasto parts

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I already checked out the local trucking sources.  And yes I called webasto 
directly but have a 4-6 week wait.  I need an extended piece of exhaust tubing 
and am looking for a shop that carries it bulk.  I’m at the point that any 
source is better than not getting this before launch.

 

 

From: Steve Thomas [mailto:sthom...@sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 2:47 PM
To: Pete Shelquist; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List webasto parts

 

I presume that you are already using Google in your quest for parts, but don't 
ignore the truck tractor-trailer market. There are a lot more of these heaters 
sold to truckers than to boaters. There is a good chance that there is a truck 
service shop that stocks Webasto heaters and service parts closer than the 
nearest marina with similar services. It might help also to let us know at 
least in what general area you live, in order to make appropriate suggestions. 

 

Steve Thomas

St. Thomas, ON

(Port Stanley)

 

- Original Message - 

From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 15:21

Subject: Stus-List webasto parts

 

I’m looking for specific Webasto parts.  Does anyone have name/number of 
marinas that install air heaters and carry parts?

 

Thanks,

 

 

   

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Stus-List 37 stemhead casting

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I'm looking for a stemhead casting, sometimes called a bowplate, for a early
80s vintage 37.   Please forward salvage yards or other sources you may be
aware of.

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 37 stemhead casting

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Unfortunately South Shore doesn't have this piece.   Still looking for other
sources.

Thanks,


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37 stemhead casting

When I needed the boom end of the gooseneck for my 27-5, it took them a
couple days to go look in storage, but they found a brand new casting that
had not even had the final holes drilled and machining done on it.

Bill Bina

On 3/16/2015 1:16 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
 Pete,

 did you try South Shore Yachts? They have many original parts.

 Joel

 On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 12:57 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I'm looking for a stemhead casting, sometimes called a bowplate,for
 a early 80s vintage 37.  Please forwardsalvage yards or other
 sources you may be aware of.



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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Sounds like a couple big “ifs” out there, but assuming the cost and maintenance 
headache is less for Stu, I’ll vote forum

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 4:32 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List Email List or Forum

 

Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a 
“Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list (like 
this one).

 

PROS:

1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list

2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.

3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.

4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.

5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
undesirable subscribers blocked.

6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view the 
latest topics since your last visit.

 

CONS:

1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
enhancements.

2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
()

3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.

 

Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
does not matter to me.

 

Stu

 

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Re: Stus-List Auto helm and Raymarine

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Well that's pretty clear.  You Raymarine guys got it going on.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2015 9:48 AM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto helm and Raymarine

 

Hi, Brad.  In a previous life, I was a certified Raymarine dealer/installer
and ABYC/NMEA-certified in marine electrical and electronics, so maybe I can
help out.

 

First off, yes, it was Autohelm, then Raytheon, then Raymarine; and
Raymarine went through several ownership iterations since, now being owned
by FLIR.

 

Because you've got the Autohelm autopilot, you won't be able to control the
pilot from the a95 (I'm assuming you meant little a, not big A, as
that's a different and older Raymarine series of MFDs); nor will you be able
to integrate it into the instruments.  They will need to be interface via
SeaTalkNG.

 

If you had a newer Raymarine wheelpilot like the ST4000, ST4000+ or newer,
you could interface it with the MFD and the instruments; but you would need
the SeaTalkNG to SeaTalk 1 converter kit to get everything to talk.

 

Email me off the list if I can help you further.

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 2, 2015, at 9:18 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:





I'm trying to understand the whole auto helm thing and what works with what.
1985 CC 33 with auto helm 4000, and Loran, obviously a problem. Purchased
Raymarine I50/I60 instrument package and A95 chartplotter (not delivered
yet) Spoke to a RayMarine rep at Toronto Boat Show who thought there
wouldn't be any issue hooking up and functioning, and the dealer I purchased
from spoke to Raymarine rep who said not likely, have to replace auto helm
as its too old (different language) I have no idea how old the autohelm is.
Is it Autohelm then Raytheon then Raymarine What is seatalk and does
that play into the language issue? Anyone have any experience with all this?
It's all new to me.
Thanks
Brad
CC 33 MK II

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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Gary – 

I’ve been digging for the information you referenced on “purchased” after 
1/1/15.  Can you send me a link for that?  

 

Thanks,

Pete

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2015 12:33 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

 

Joel, I checked with our CBYRA rep and was told that CBYRA is not the 
authority, it is PHRF of the Chesapeake. And I looked at the PHRF web site and 
it states that if the handheld is PURCHASED after 1/1/15, then it must have the 
DSC capability.

 

Gary

St. Michaels

- Original Message - 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 2:22 PM

Subject: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

 

All, 

 

Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a handheld VHF 
with DSC this season.

 

Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
theGPSStore for $125.00

 

Any reason I should not buy this unit?

 

35/3

The Office

Annapolis

Joel 
301 541 8551

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Per Garmin Tech Support and to  clarify Bill’s comment below.  Garmin’s units 
with Wifi built in do not require the $200 adaptor kit. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:13 AM
To: Bill Coleman; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

 

Bill,

 

Wifi is built into the Ray for the Ray phone/tablet apps.  Not for a laptop.

I agree the old Ray stuff was not user-friendly, but the current stuff really 
is!

Let us know what you select.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 12:07 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Lots of great info, thanks to all for their input.

In reading the manuals many things become more clear.

Garmin is a little more forthright in acknowledging that you need to pony up 
another 200 for a wifi module, and 300 for radio, 

Had to dig a little deeper in the Zeus to find that out. I am puzzled why they 
don’t build wifi in, it is in my dashcam and that is tiny and cheap.

It looks to me that it IS built into the e7 Raymarine, can anyone clarify that?

On the pictures of the back of the Zeus 8 it has Simrad molded into the case, 
so I guess that is what it really is.

The reason I had not considered the Raymarine is that after going from a 
Garmin, which I consider very intuitive, the Ray was confounding, and poorly 
thought out, at least the RL-80.

They seem to be making much nicer stuff now, especially since Jeppeson  
acquired them.

JF, do you know if my Raymarine Autopilot will work seamlessly with the Zeus?  
It is 0183, the MKII around 10 years old.

And thanks to Fred for the Garmin offer.

 

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 8:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

 

My response to Chuck got scrubbed again.. I need to stop trying to send from 
the phone... 

Here goes:  

The laylines are not necessarily set at any particular angle.. That's the 
genius of it. It analyzes how you are pointing / running relative to apparent 
wind speed, current, tides, direction, wind shifts, and boat speed then does 
the trigonometry for the layline angle that gives the optimal tack / jibe point 
to max-out your vmg to waypoint.

During that race I followed it precisely, gained 2 tacks over 5 miles.. 

Sent from IBM Notes Traveler

Chuck S --- Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters --- 


From:

Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net


To:

Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Date:

Sat, Jan 31, 2015 2:01 PM


Subject:

Re: Stus-List Latest Charplotters

 

  _  


That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are they 
set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?

Chuck
Regards


  _  





François Rivard

 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw




Big Data Black Belt

 Atlanta, 30327-3015


IBM Sales  Distribution, Software Sales

 Usa


Mobile:

770-639-0429

 




e-mail:

jfriv...@us.ibm.com

  




 


 

 


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Bill - 
I'm thinking about going down that same path and interested in what you
learn about BG and Garmin chartplotters.  Both have wireless capability
with ipad control, which is very attractive.  It'd be ideal to play with
each for a while.  My only experience with BG is adding a Triton Display on
my Garmin network (replaced 1 of 3 Garmin GMIs).   Seamless integration,
very good functionality and easy to use once you learn the quirks.  

I also have a Raymarine autopilot w/display on the network.  Marginal at
best.  

Good luck and stay in touch on this.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

I was wondering if anyone on the list has, or has had occasion to use one of
the new Chartplotters by BG or Garmin with the Laylines, compass rose, etc,
that look like the overlays on the latest Americas cup.  Particularly the
Zeus Touch T8, now on sale for $807 I still have an RC-80 Raymarine which
works fine, but all these new features, plus many, many more make my knees
go weak.

Any Comments?

Another observation, I notice that Defender has nothing from Garmin anymore.
I wonder if they pulled their plug for not playing by the rules and selling
below their suggested prices. ?

Bill Coleman
CC 39



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Stus-List handicap for after market sprits

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

LMPHRF, our local handicap governing body, is making adjustments to the
credit and penalties of handicaps for displacement hull boats that fly
asyms, with and without the addition of sprits.  

I'm interested in what other regions are using for regs, amount of
participation, and observations of performance changes.

Thanks for your help.

Pete



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Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Congrats Jack!  Keep up the good work.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 1:33 PM
To: Tom Buscaglia; CCList
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

 

CC 30 OD

 

I just shipped 3 of these boats (hull nos: 05, 06  08) to USWatercraft's 
Japanese dealer. All 3 boats were pre sold. The dealer has 3 more hulls on 
order for delivery by the end of May 2015.

 

There is also a lot of interest from Australia we well.

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY

US12788

CC 39 TM




 

 

On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Looking forward to finally seeing one at the Seattle Boat Show next week.  
Hoping they'll have the a Redline 41 though I doubt it.

Oh yeah...go Hawks!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


 On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Message: 2
 Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 20:15:30 -0500
 From: Jerome Tauber jrtau...@aol.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List CC30 one design at Key West

 There will be a CC 30 one design competing in Key West Race Week starting 
 tomorrow.  Jerry cC 27 v JJ
 Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Garmin 740 for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I'm considering upgrading my GPS.  Anyone interested in a Garmin 740?  I
have the GXM  SiriusXM receiver to go with it.  

 

Great unit.  I'm going for the newer model with more features.

 

Contact me directly.

 

Pete

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