Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I don't have much to add beyond what Jake said, but I bought a 35-III about
a year and a half ago and have been living aboard for a little over a
year.  I love it.

Agree with Jake that you'll be reefing early and often, but as long as you
limit it to the appropriate amount of canvas it's a really nice, balanced
boat to sail.  I've put plenty of people who are new to sailing on the helm
in relatively heavy breeze and watched them hold a nice upwind line.  I've
also found it very comfortable to live on.

Highly recommend this boat if you can find one in good condition.

Survey tip: On mine, there were keel bolt spacers in the bilge that were
made of aluminum and had gone totally soft, to the point that the keel
could be pushed back and forth when the boat was hauled.  I replaced those
with G10 and have had no problems since, but it was a big, expensive job
and something to watch out for.

Sam
C 35-III Scoundrel
SF


On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 5:12 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
>
>
> I am among one of the many 35-III owners on the list here.  I love mine.
> It is a bit tender, but sails to its rating and wins a lot of races.  It is
> comfortable to cruise with two, but I’ve also raced with 7 on-board in the
> Annapolis-to-Bermuda Race (on “The Office”, another35-III sistership).
>
>
>
> The boat is a little tender.  You will be one of the first people to reef,
> but it points well and sails like a C should.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Gotthardt via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 27, 2017 16:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Richard Gotthardt 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35 MK III
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale"
> section on cncphotoalbum.com ?
>
>
>
> Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant
> information that's posted?
>
>
>
> https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Nav rules questions

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I have a very nice USN bell from the previous owners and use it in the same
manner as Chuck.  It gets a lot of use.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel
SF

On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 9:43 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We have a bell on board and ring it at the start of cocktail hour(s).
> Although when we do that, it seems to attract other sailors to our boat and
> we can’t understand why….
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 14, 2016 10:55 AM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Nav rules questions
>
>
>
> So how many of you have a bell on board and know when to use it?
>
> How many of you have the latest edition of U.S. Chart 1?
>
> What is the latest edition of U.S. Chart 1?  (and its latest correction
> date?)
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Somewhat on this subject, I'm thinking about putting a battery powered
light in the head so the light in there will work regardless of how the
switches are set on the main panel.  Has anyone done that?  Any
recommendations?

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel
SF

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 4:27 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I installed 10 ft of LED strip lights behind the teak valance on both
> sides of Pulse, have a goofy idea that I'm going to install a couple of
> short strips in the slot on the underside of the boom in RGB for cockpit
> lighting. In hind site I wish I'd installed RGB in the cabin as well.
> Purchased mine from Home Depot. No problem with them sticking so far, 2
> summers in.
> Brad
> "Pulse" 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List C 33 For Sale

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

A friend of mine moved up to a larger liveaboard and is now selling her
1977 C 33.  It's in great shape.  Located in the San Francisco Bay Area
(specifically Point Richmond).

Here's the listing if anyone's interested or knows someone who might be:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/5701271536.html

Sam
C 35-3 Scoundrel
SF
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Re: Stus-List Barient 22 Winch

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Sounds like a good solution.  To get the same effect at the dock, you could
probably run a line (jib sheet might be a good candidate) between the two
winches and tighten it up just enough to hold them in place.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 5:53 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yesterday, I discovered a simple way to loosen really tight (possibly
> seized) Allen screw(s) in my Barient 22 B model winchesI thought about
> attempting it on the mooring but it was too hot and too nice a day to waste
> servicing winches that were not preventing me from sailing.  I soaked both
> screws with Liquid Wrench and went sailing.
>
> Later in the afternoon, my 135% sheeted close hauled in 12 knts true, the
> winch looked pretty 'locked up' so I went below and got my 3/16" Allen key
> and with a twist, the Allen screw turned.   Tacked, and the port screw
> loosened.
>
> A strap wrench would be a useful tool to have for this purposeI have
> one.thought it was on the boat but can't find it.
>
> Not as nice a sailing day here today.my winches might get serviced.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing - now scoring systems

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

My Friday series uses PHRF TOT, switched from TOD a couple years ago.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We use PHRF and Time on Time.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2016, at 3:29 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> All –
> For your local races, how many use PHRF vs ORC or other?  TOT vs TOD?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding (with Butyl)

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Since you're thinking about doing the rest of your deck hardware down the
line, I would definitely spring for Bed-It to be safe.  I don't have
experience with other brands though.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 10:50 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Definitely, Bed-it is different--much stickier and flexible than most
> other varieties.
>
> I found out the hard way that the butyl tape I got somewhere else (travel
> trailer store or on-line?) was much less flexible than Bed-it.
> It may have been dried out or it just was made that way. Anyway, if it is
> not flexible enough, it will not compress properly and will
> leak.
>
> OTOH, if you find nice flexible butyl tape which I also found on-line, it
> works fine.
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail ; Jeremy Ralph <
> jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Thu, Jul 14, 2016 1:10 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding (with Butyl)
>
> Bed-it brand is distinctly not the same as the stuff found elsewhere.
> Bill Bina
>
> On 7/14/2016 1:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm leaning toward butyl tape now given peoples' responses and the and
> Compass Marine article.  I've followed Compass recommendations for other
> projects (battery cable, battery monitor, mooring ball setup) and highly
> regard that site.
>
> Is there a need for marine grade (Bed-It) butyl tape, or is the stuff I
> can get at glass or RV stores here in Vancouver BC going to be okay?
> Waiting for delivery of Bed-It will delay my project, but I'd rather do
> it correctly than quickly.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I haven't messed with my stanchions, but I've had success rebedding other
deck hardware with butyl tape.  There's a useful guide here that also
discusses the reasons to use butyl as opposed to 4200:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

It's by a guy who sells butyl tape, so who knows, but it makes sense to me
and I found his method to be straightforward and effective.  I didn't trust
myself to get the wait-and-tighten technique right with 4200.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 5:07 PM, Chris Duer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the stanchion
> has a crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely isn't any rot
> because the deck core terminates before the stanchions and toe rail.
>
> Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard side (in
> line with the set screws).  You may need to replace them, I did on my 1978
> 34.
>
> Chris Duer
> 1978 C 34 #117
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 13, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The stanchions on my '78 C 34 are wobbly and some are bent.  They also
> leak a bit.  The previous owner told me I should:
>
> 1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
> 2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
> 3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
> 4. once the 4200 has cured, snug them up
>
> Is this the way I should do it?
>
> I'm thinking I should also look out for rot and learn how to solve that in
> case I find it.
>
> I have a feeling I should eventually re-bed all the deck hardware but one
> thing at time :)
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I raced in a Wednesday fleet a few years ago but at this point Wednesday
has become my designated non-sailing day...  My race schedule is Tuesday
and Thursday nights in Vanguard 15 dinghies (Tuesdays are team
racing), Friday nights on an Islander 36 in a PHRF spinnaker fleet, and
occasional weekends on a J/105, a Santa Cruz 50, and anyone else who will
take me.  The V-15 is mine, the rest are OPBs.

I don't have any plans to seriously race my 35 since I live aboard and it's
not really set up to go fast, but I'm hoping at some point down the line to
enter it in something fun and casual with low expectations - probably once
I get it rigged to fly a spinnaker.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 10:36 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I'm curious: How many of you guys race every Wednesday night?
>
>
>
> Started one night a week, either Tuesday in white sail or Wednesday
> in flying sail, in 2000. Sailed both nights staring 2004, then bought
> the boat in 2009. A couple of years ago the club offered a flying sail
> start on Tuesdays which I race in. So spinnaker twice a week.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stupid Reefing Mistake / clew straps

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Francois,

I race on a Santa Cruz 50 that uses a velcro clew strap on a loose footed
main.  I don't know where the owner got the strap but it's fairly heavy
webbing with velcro on both sides that loops through the clew and around
the boom two or three times.  (That's while sailing unreefed - I've only
been on board once when we reefed that boat, and I think we still used the
strap but I don't remember.)

In terms of the mid-sail points, since my C 35 isn't loose footed, tying
up the sail without the boom isn't an option.

When double reefed, there's enough sail on the boom that I'd rather not
have it flapping free.  In those conditions I think I'll continue to use a
sail tie for the clew and get something relatively thin for the mid-sail
points that would break before the sail tears if something goes wrong and
it loads up.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 2:36 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a loose footed main. I was told NEVER to attach the sail ties to
> the boom when reefing.. If you bother with them at all just go around the
> bottom of the sail and back / cinch it to keep from flopping around..
>
> Personally I usually don't bother and just use either the hook on the
> gooseneck for the tack side or the Cunningham line to give it a remote
> adjustment for quick release when racing and the outhaul / reefing line at
> the clew..
>
> Clew straps:  Where have you seen those for larger boats?   I looked into
> that a while back and all I found were for Lasers and Optis..
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Stupid Reefing Mistake

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Just thought I'd share a dumb mistake I made in case anyone out there
doesn't reef very often and might learn from it when the time comes.

I went out on Sunday with a few friends in heavy air, with the main fully
reefed to the second reef points.  I don't keep lines in my reef points so
I use the sail ties to strap them down when I reef.  This time, I wasn't
thinking and tied the straps around the whole boom - including the main
sheet.

We were sailing upwind with no need to let out the sheet so I didn't notice
the problem until we tried to turn down and head home, and it wouldn't go
out.  And to make matters slightly worse, we lost a canvas winch cover
overboard in the process and weren't able (didn't try) to go back for it
with the sheet jammed.  It was easy enough to retie the straps correctly
but it took a little while and we were lucky to have plenty of open water
to do it and no really urgent need to bear down.  Lesson learned: make sure
to tie the reef point lines inside the sheet.

(The other mistake that I'm now realizing that I made was cinching the
straps tight.  Better to tie them loose just to keep everything together,
since those mid-sail reef points aren't reinforced to take load.)

Sam
35-3
SF
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I had an exciting freighter experience this past weekend.

I went for a leisurely sunset sail with a couple of friends on Saturday
from San Francisco (where I had parked the boat for a few days) across the
bay to Emeryville (where I am permanently berthed).  We were probably about
a half-mile south of the Bay Bridge when a cargo ship came under the bridge
and turned to port, east towards Oakland - a course that would cross well
ahead of us without ever getting close.

About a minute after making the turn east, the freighter made a sudden
starboard turn to the west, which put it on course straight for us.  The
wind was light and we weren't moving very fast, but our course was
perpendicular to the ship's, and I figured we would probably pass ahead of
it at this point.  But it continues to bear down on us - those things
always move faster than I expect - and blows a few horn blasts, so we
scramble to fire up the engine and open up the throttle.

With the engine going strong, we're in good shape to get out of the way.
All clear, we start to relax and laugh about the situation.  Then the cargo
ship alters course again.  At first I think I'm imagining it, but it's
turning steadily to port, apparently tracking us to stay aimed straight at
my boat, and continues to close the distance.

So I hand off the wheel and run for the radio.  Hail "unidentified cargo
vessel" (hard to read a name when it's coming straight at you) on channel
16, and the Coast Guard helpfully tells me that ships only monitor 13.  Try
again on the right channel.

The pilot responds right away.  It turns out he's just turning in a circle
to drop anchor.  No danger, he sees us, and we're fine on our course.  We
shut the engine down and had a nice sail the rest of the way.  (Here's a
video  of the post-freighter portion of the
trip.)

Takeaways:
(1)  Count the horns.  My guess in retrospect is that he blew three to
indicate that he was in reverse and starting to slow down, not five for
"get out of the way if you don't want to be a smudge on my hull," which is
what I took it as.

(2)  I need get myself a handheld radio that I can use from the helm.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Here's the link to the video of the idiotic sailor who tried to cross in
> front of a freighter during Cowes Week in 2011. The skipper was fined GBP
> 3000!
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_tUoUxzt9sI
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 9, 2016, at 16:01, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Tanzer 26 actually broadsided a container ship
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C 35 mk
III?  I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and
don't need to find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the
ballpark of what the boat was designed for.

It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind of
racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.

Thanks!

Sam
35-3
SF
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

If it's just the joker valve, you don't need to buy a WC part (which seems
hard to find).  I picked up a Jabsco valve at West Marine because it's all
they had and it worked fine in my WC head.  Seems like all the 3" joker
valves are basically interchangeable.  Pretty easy job, too, and much
cleaner than I expected it to be.

I was only having back-flow issues though.  Not sure if it would solve your
water leak problems.

Sam

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 4:09 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Not only easier but less frustrating...I did a rebuild and damned thing
> still leaked.
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 20:19:58 -0230
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: dziedzi...@hotmail.com
>
>
> And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head
> and I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was
> a Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a
> bonus.
>
>
>
> I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *May 31, 2016 16:35
> *To: *CnClist 
> *Cc: *Dennis C. 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>
>
> You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate
> 1460-C then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.
>
> There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.
> Your old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and
> easier than installing a rebuild kit.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my
> C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is
> leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there
> is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve
> is shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19
>
> The following kit looks like it's the right one.
>
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
>
> Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the
> right kit?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Fodor
> C 29 Mark II
> Hawk
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, Ryan.  Your boat looks incredible.  If you get the urge
to paint another one, just let me know...

Sam
35-3
SF

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 5:48 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ryan
>
>
>
> The boat looks really nice.  Congratulations on a job well done
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> HAlifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2016 12:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
>
>
>
> Hey all,
>
>
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
>
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
>
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
>
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
>
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
>
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
>
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
>
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
>
>
> Sanded:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
>
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
>
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
>
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
>
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
>
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
>
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
>
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
>
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
>
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
>
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
> finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
>
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused 

Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Yeah, sounds like it might have been getting to that point.  Maybe better
for it to fail on a hoist than underway in heavy air, too.

In my case, amazingly, it turned out the pole was fixable with a fiberglass
collar around the break.  The owner was surprisingly calm about the whole
thing.  Apparently he had switched from a metal pole to carbon specifically
so that an incident like that would break the pole rather than bring the
rig down.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Tue, May 24, 2016 at 4:40 PM, <randy.staff...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Ouch is right :)  That was about a $500 lesson, but who knows how much
> longer a 44-year old extruded plastic luff support system would have lasted
> anyway.  It had some other visible deterioration.  But probably not as
> expensive a lesson as replacing a carbon fiber spin pole :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ------------------
> *From: *"Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To: *"cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc: *"Sam Wheeler" <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, May 24, 2016 4:38:50 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
>
> Ouch.
>
> My version of Lesson 1 was when I was in college and an older alumnus
> invited our team to race with him on his Serendipity 43.  We went out for a
> practice day, and as team captain and one of the only people with
> non-dinghy race experience, I ended up as the de facto crew chief.
>
> We get the spinnaker up and call for a jibe.  Foredeck crew dips the pole
> and gets it hooked up on the new guy, but it's not coming aft, so I yell to
> the 6'8" dude on the primary winch to keep cranking.
>
> The ensuing explosion of carbon fiber shards taught me a valuable lesson
> about baby stays.
>
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
>
> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 9:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It's in 18 feet of murky questionable marina water that I'd prefer not to
>> swim in, even if I could see my hand in front of my face :)
>>
>> Turns out I got great customer service from Head Foil.  I sent them a
>> picture and description of the half I didn't drop overboard, and they dated
>> it to the first years of their company - early 70s, meaning my luff support
>> system was probably original.  They looked but couldn't find a replacement
>> part.  So I'm getting a new Head Foil system after a 44-year service life
>> on the previous one.  Not sure the replacement feed funnel have would have
>> been a complete fix anyway, because some of the plastic extrusion
>> underneath it cracked and broke off.  Without a new system I'm worried that
>> sharp plastic edges might cut luff tapes of headsails being hoisted.  The
>> new Head Foil system is significantly less expensive than competing systems
>> or furlers.  I called / emailed the company on Saturday morning and they
>> called me back within a few hours.  My new system shipped today.  I'll
>> report back after installing and using it.
>>
>> There's actually more to the story.  Went out for a leisure sail with
>> family, and the genoa foot fouled on a horn cleat during the hoist.  My
>> daughter's boyfriend (big strong kid) kept hauling on the halyard until the
>> feed funnel blew apart.  Both halves were still dangling by one of two
>> screws holding them together (the other screw blew out somewhere during the
>> hoist).  When we got back to the marina I went to take all the parts off
>> the forestay to see if I could find replacement screws and re-assemble the
>> whole thing, and that's when I dropped the part overboard.  But I'm not
>> sure reassembly would have worked anyway because of the broken plastic.
>> The lessons: (1) if a sail is not going up like you expect, something is
>> wrong, and continuing to haul on the halyard will only break something; (2)
>> be careful not to drop shit overboard :)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Ouch.

My version of Lesson 1 was when I was in college and an older alumnus
invited our team to race with him on his Serendipity 43.  We went out for a
practice day, and as team captain and one of the only people with
non-dinghy race experience, I ended up as the de facto crew chief.

We get the spinnaker up and call for a jibe.  Foredeck crew dips the pole
and gets it hooked up on the new guy, but it's not coming aft, so I yell to
the 6'8" dude on the primary winch to keep cranking.

The ensuing explosion of carbon fiber shards taught me a valuable lesson
about baby stays.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 9:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It's in 18 feet of murky questionable marina water that I'd prefer not to
> swim in, even if I could see my hand in front of my face :)
>
> Turns out I got great customer service from Head Foil.  I sent them a
> picture and description of the half I didn't drop overboard, and they dated
> it to the first years of their company - early 70s, meaning my luff support
> system was probably original.  They looked but couldn't find a replacement
> part.  So I'm getting a new Head Foil system after a 44-year service life
> on the previous one.  Not sure the replacement feed funnel have would have
> been a complete fix anyway, because some of the plastic extrusion
> underneath it cracked and broke off.  Without a new system I'm worried that
> sharp plastic edges might cut luff tapes of headsails being hoisted.  The
> new Head Foil system is significantly less expensive than competing systems
> or furlers.  I called / emailed the company on Saturday morning and they
> called me back within a few hours.  My new system shipped today.  I'll
> report back after installing and using it.
>
> There's actually more to the story.  Went out for a leisure sail with
> family, and the genoa foot fouled on a horn cleat during the hoist.  My
> daughter's boyfriend (big strong kid) kept hauling on the halyard until the
> feed funnel blew apart.  Both halves were still dangling by one of two
> screws holding them together (the other screw blew out somewhere during the
> hoist).  When we got back to the marina I went to take all the parts off
> the forestay to see if I could find replacement screws and re-assemble the
> whole thing, and that's when I dropped the part overboard.  But I'm not
> sure reassembly would have worked anyway because of the broken plastic.
> The lessons: (1) if a sail is not going up like you expect, something is
> wrong, and continuing to haul on the halyard will only break something; (2)
> be careful not to drop shit overboard :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I don't know very much about such things, but it sounds like if he is
replacing it anyway and in fact has a 120 volt system, he might want to
consider going with a double pole breaker instead of triple.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 9:34 AM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That is what I thought too. I did not think it was wise to disconnect the
> green.
> Thank you, I will let him know
> Ahmet
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ahmet — a three-pole breaker like that would typically be used on a
>> 240-volt shore power system, which has TWO hots and a neutral.  The breaker
>> would interrupt all three of those, with the ground left untouched.  NEVER
>> DISCONNECT THE SAFETY GROUND!!!
>>
>> If your friend only has a 120-volt system, he only needs to wire two of
>> the three poles.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On May 11, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
>> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868
>> I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot
>> at the same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
>> Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used
>> to disconnect the ground ?
>>
>> Thank You
>> Ahmet
>> S/V Tabasco C 25
>> Winthrop, MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but after a failed attempt at the
silicone-and-self-amalgamating-tape system with a rain storm approaching, I
went with the toilet wax method
.
No leaks.  I don't even have it covered right now but I'm planning to put
some canvas over it eventually, primarily for cosmetic reasons.  Even if
you go with tape, it might be worth considering wax underneath as a
backstop.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I was looking at similar products. In fact they look almost exactly the
> same.  I was afraid someone would have come forward with a horror story
> about one company over another.  Looks like that's not going to be the case.
>
> Thanks everyone for the input,
> Josh
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List '88 MkII 30 polar?

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Same here.  I bought my 35-3 this winter to live aboard and pleasure sail,
but I do my racing on other boats.  Even if you're new to it, I would
expect that it shouldn't be too hard to find reasonably good racers looking
for extra crew.  It's terrific experience.

I'm hoping to enter mine in some very casual races once I've got her set up
to my liking, but I definitely don't expect to finish particularly well
with my tired sails and with all my stuff on board, and I wouldn't do it if
I didn't already have a racing background.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Fri, Apr 29, 2016 at 12:01 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1.  I spent three years crewing on other people's boats - headsail and
> spinnaker trimmer, foredeck, driver, "fourth", etc. - before buying my own
> boat and raising a crew for racing.  My crew are relatively inexperienced
> and I want us all to rotate around and cross-train on every position.  But
> that's still not the same as one person crewing around on different boats
> with different crews.  My crew won't get that cross-pollination.  It helps
> you judge what works well and what doesn't, and pick up information from a
> variety of sources.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Dennis" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, April 28, 2016 8:05:28 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List '88 MkII 30 polar?
>
>
> Ditto. That's what I did. Not only do you absorb a lot of sailing go fast
> knowledge, you will also see what works best as far as running rigging
> configurations, strategy, etc.  I worked every position on lots of boats.
> My time spent racing on other boats was priceless.  I still do it.
>
> As a skipper who has experience as main trimmer, genoa trimmer, grinder,
> put, foredeck, mast, etc. I understand what each crew member is doing,
> needs to do.  Makes me a better skipper. BTW, I didn't usually drive the
> boat. One of my crew was better at it. I usually did foredeck.
>
> Guy in my marina races his boat. He only drives. He never races on other
> boats nor does he do other positions on his boat.  His racing program never
> improves.
>
> The other advantage to racing on other boats is you don't have to pay for
> broken stuff.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 28, 2016, at 7:06 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Lorne,
>
> Please do not try to learn how to sail and to race with a liveaboard boat
> that you just got in to.
>
> The very best way to learn racing and sailing is to get out by crewing on
> well found yachts. The ego of most crew members will smother you with
> information and by the end of a season you will see much of it applied.
> Good and bad.
>
> Then you can use your own boat, loaded as she will be, for pleasure. Say,
> a nice daysail once in awhile.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
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Re: Stus-List '88 MkII 30 polar?

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Here's another PHRF list that, while not as comprehensive as Randy's US
Sailing list, might be simpler to read because it only lists one rating for
each class: http://www.yra.org/PHRF/docs/ncphrf_baserates.pdf

This one happens to be for the Northern California area, but if your goal
is just to find comparable boats it shouldn't really matter which region
you use.  On this list, a C 30-2 rates 150.

Ideally, I would try to choose a boat that not only has a similar rating
but also dates to the same era, since the designs are more likely to be
similar if they were made in the same time period.

As background, if you're new to this, lower numbers are faster.  The
difference between two boats' ratings is how much time in seconds per mile
you correct their results in a race to make it (roughly) an even match up.
There are also more complicated formulas that can be used based solely on
elapsed time instead of distance.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 3:57 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lorne check out
> http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf
>  for
> PHRF ratings by boat make & model given by various yacht clubs around the
> country, and
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Performance_Handicap_Racing_Fleet and
> fan-out (specifically http://www.phrfsocal.org/phrf-history/) for
> background on PRHF.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Lorne Serpa" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, April 28, 2016 4:03:02 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List '88 MkII 30 polar?
>
>
> I'm new to sailing.  I sort of see what  you are saying.  How to I know
> what my PHRF rating is for a Mk II 30?
> And, how do I know what  PHRF rating is for other boats?  I assume there
> is a library somewhere?  I'll google it tonight.  Thanks.
>
> On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 2:30 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'd look at the PHRF rating for similar sized boats like a Bene Oceanis
>> 31, Dehler 29 etc. and use the closest.
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> A couple of my new weather routing apps would like a polar to make
>>> routing more accurate.   Anyone have one or know where to get one? If not,
>>> there polar are prep loaded.  Would any get me close?
>>>
>>> C5g3
>>> A35
>>> BP5
>>> CIGALE14
>>> CLASS40
>>> FIGARO2
>>> IMOCA2008MONO650
>>> POGO850
>>> TRANSPAC52
>>>
>>> Archambault
>>> a31 a35 a40rc
>>> Bavaria
>>> bavaria33 bavaria32 bavaria34
>>> Bénéteau
>>> evasion32 figaro2 first210 first21_7 first25_7 first26 first27_7
>>> first30jk first310s first31_7 first325gte first32s5 oceanis31 oceanis34
>>> first24 first29 evasion34 firstclass10 oceanis351
>>> Dehler
>>> dehler29 dehler32
>>> Dufour
>>> dufour27 dufour34  dufour24 dufour34
>>> Etap
>>> etap32i
>>> Express
>>> express27
>>> Farr
>>> far36od mumm30
>>> Hallberg Rassy
>>> J Boats
>>> j105 j109 j120 j122 j133
>>> Jeanneau
>>> jod35 melody sunfast32 sunfast3200 sunfast32i
>>> Tartan
>>> tartan10
>>> Wauquiez
>>> gladiateur
>>> X Yachts
>>> x332 xp33
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List West marine line sale

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Is the sale in-store, online, or both?  I'm thinking my old wire jib
halyard might be due for an upgrade to spectra.

Thanks,
Sam

On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 11:15 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tomorrow is the Spring 40% off line sale.
>
> Stock up!
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 86' C MKIII Window options

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

JP, do you have photos?  I'm planning on redoing the windows on my 35-3 at
some point.  I doubt I'll go the custom frame route, but curious to see how
it looks.

Thanks,
Sam

On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 3:26 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

> Recently purchased a 35-3. The PO had stainless steel frames made for the
> outside after he replaced the windows. Dead sexy.
> J
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:11 PM, CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Still eyeballing an 86’ MKIII for sale and contemplating possible
> cosmetic upgrades if I were to purchase. Not a big fan of the single pane
> plexi window wondering if I can make it two panes like a few years earlier
> before they changed it. Would be great if I could get some trim that goes
> around each pane to make the appearance a bit cleaner. Found a website that
> sells the plexi, just curious if anyone has done this.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks, everyone!  I ended up picking up a Jabsco joker valve last night
and installing that.  It was the only option in stock but it seems fine -
as far as I can tell, the different manufacturers' 3 inch valves seems to
be more or less interchangeable.  The old one was noticeably ready for
replacement.  So far so good on the new one.

Sam

On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have had a C Headmate on my 29-1 and I had to rebuild the pump several
> times.  I  now have a Jabsco head on my LF38.  The quality and
> functionality is much better.
>
> The West Marine head actually looks like a rebranding of the Jabsco head.
>   WM lists the Jabsco head for $209.  If you decide to go with a new head,
> I suggest that you pay the extra $10 and go with the Jabsco unit.  Take a
> closer look at both heads and you will see one with a grey pump handle and
> the other with a black pump handle.   The grey one is the older version of
> the Jabsco pump.  It’s likely an out dated photo, but make sure you get one
> with the black pump handle, it’s the newer new Jabsco twist-n-lock pump.
> A big advantage is that Jabsco parts are easier to obtain (and in my
> opinion better quality) such that rather than rebuilding the pump (a
> rebuild kit ~$50) it is just easier to replace the whole pump ($70) which
> comes with a new joker and takes a few minutes to install.
>
>
> I have a short write up about the Jabsco head pumps on my blog:
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HeadPlumbingWork
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 1:55 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:50:16 -0700
> From: Sam Wheeler 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III
> Message-ID:
> 

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I replaced the head discharge hoses on my 35-3 a couple weeks ago.  Someone
(not sure if it was C or the previous owner) had used fuel hoses for that
on mine.  There is definitely a wire coil in there, and after a few decades
on the boat the hoses were very reluctant to go anywhere.  I used an old
pair of wire cutters (think these
) to dig
into the rubber and cut the wire strands, being careful not to scrape up
the plastic attachments.  It was tedious and probably not the best
solution, but after a lot more work than it probably should have taken, I
got the hoses off without damaging the fittings.

I bet someone here can give you a better answer than that, but it worked
for me...

Sam
C 35-3
SF

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:25 AM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via
CnC-List  wrote:

> The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is
> original on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This
> was noticed on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to
> be of a rubber compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how
> to remove this 2 inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If
> it is just rubber it could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in
> the construction. Have not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so
> with a full tank of diesel. After the removal , then there is the question
> of finding a replacement. Suggestions requested please.
> Harold
> Celtic Spirit
> Hamilton, ON
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I wouldn't be at all surprised if someone can come up with a good reason
not to do this, but one solution (if the two compartments are not
connected) might be to have the pump from the forward area discharge into
the main bilge aft of the mast.  Avoids clogging check valves and wouldn't
require a new thru-hull.  New pump moves water from the forward sump into
the main bilge, and then your existing pump sends it overboard.

Sam
C 35-3
SF

On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 3:47 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The forward area is lower (under the mast step) than the aft one by about
> eight inches.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dr.
> Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 14, 2016 11:57 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dr. Mark Bodnar 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump
>
>
>
>
> Can you drill out a small limber hole? Allow the water from the forward
> bilge to drain back to the main bilge.
> If the hole is small it's won't let a torrent of water through if there is
> a major leak forward - but should allow the small amount to drip through
> and into the main bilge.
> Hole might get blocked with debris occasionally but not too hard to clean
> out if you leave a small stick to jab in clear.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2016-04-14 12:29 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hey listers,
>
> I know I have been posting lots of questions recently, so thank you for
> your insight and suggestions.  It's much appreciated.
>
> My 1976 C 30mki accumulates water in a forward bilge compartment that is
> very hard to access.
>
> My bilge pump is aft of the mast step, and while it does a good job of
> pumping out that area, I routinely end up with a couple gallons of water in
> that forward bilge that I pump out by hand.
>
> I'd like to rig a utility pump or a bilge pump to suck the water out of
> that forward compartment.  It would be nice if it was automatic, but a
> switch is fine too.
>
> The two setups I'm considering:
>
> 1 - I buy a very small bilge pump (ideally with an internal automatic
> switch) and try to squeeze it down there... possibly having to cut some of
> the cabin sole out and repair it <--- but I don't really want to do that.
>
> 2 - I buy a 12V utility pump and run a bilge hose down into that forward
> bilge and connect the outflow to my current bilge hose.  I switch it on
> when water accumulates in there.
>
>
>
> Has anyone done anything like this?  Anyone have a better solution for
> keeping that forward area dry?
>
> Ryan
>
> Nobody's Bargain
>
> 1976 C 30mki
>
> New York
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I use the key for one of my lazarette locks to start my engine.  If you
don't already have one the right size, and would prefer a key to a
screwdriver, I'm sure you can get a generic blank key that will work for
cheap at a hardware store.

Sam
1984 C 35-3
SF

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep.  Most of the J30 owners in my marina use a screwdriver.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 5:20 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> flat blade screwdriver or any key that fit.  (there are no pins inside,
>> just a slot)
>>
>> Leslie.
>> 
>> On Thu, 3/24/16, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
>>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>  Cc: "Richard N. Bush" 
>>  Date: Thursday, March 24, 2016, 2:08 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>   I find myself in need of a
>>  replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at
>>  least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart
>>  keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  Richard
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>>
>>
>>  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>
>>
>>  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>
>>
>>  502-584-7255
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  ___
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  This list is supported by the generous donations of our
>>  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
>>  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
>>  appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>>
>>  ___
>>
>>  This list is supported by the
>>  generous donations of our members. If you like what we do,
>>  please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>  Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I can confirmed that there is a bolt under the mast on the mkIII, but I
don't know about the mkII.  My understanding is that the mkII design is
closer to the mkI.

Sam
C 35 mkIII
SF

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 2:50 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a C 35 MKII and was wondering if there is a keel bolt under the
> mast. I was talking to Dennis and he has a Mk I version and he told me that
> his does not have a keel bolt under his mast. Does anybody know the answer
> to this? I would rather not have to pull the mast to tighten the bolts. Has
> anybody with the MKII version looked under there? are there things to be
> concerned with? I don’t seem to have any issues and don’t want to open too
> many cans of worms that I don’t have to ;-)
> Cheers,
>
> *Bill Hoyne*
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Or the stepson who owned the boat saw that it had been listed for a dollar
and had second thoughts about delegating the sale to his stepparent.

Sam
C 35 mk III
SF

On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks like the ad is gone. Maybe someone made him an offer he couldn't
> refuse.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Why do these never come up on the left coast?
>>
>> --
>> Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 18:48:14 +
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: djhaug...@juno.com
>>
>>
>> Look like really good opertunity potential.  that engine job has to be
>> worth $10k no?
>>
>> Nice find Edd!
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>> To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
>> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
>> Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2016 15:49:49 +
>>
>> 40 gallons is twice standard and 5 gallons a day means nothing. The
>> engine would use around 15-20 gallons in a 24 hour day.
>>
>> I might be in for $1,000 – who knows?
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 24, 2016 09:43
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1970 C 35 For Sale -- Bidding War in March
>>
>>
>>
>> His fuel calculation may be off.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 24, 2016, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> For anyone that may be looking —
>> http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/5461109437.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Could be a great opportunity.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>>
>> Starship Enterprise
>>
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>
>> City Island, NY
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___ Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List replying to specific posts in the thread

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

This is a wild guess, but Jason, do you have your subscription settings
configured to get a daily digest instead of individual messages?  That
might be the issue.  It's easier to respond to individual threads if you
get each message separately.

I started out with daily digests but switched to separate messages.  I have
a gmail rule set up to divert all the C list emails to their own folder
so they don't fill up my inbox.

Sam
C 35 mk III
SF

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not sure how your email system works but some, notably gmail, will include
> part of the original thread if you highlight it.
>
> For instance, see the text below.  I highlighted about 2/3 of your
> original post and then hit "Reply".  Gmail inserted the highlighted portion
> in my reply.  It ignored the rest.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 11:23 AM, Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have noticed that people are able to reply to specific post with the
>> original thread in their reply.  In order to conform to the format of the
>> threads I would like to know how  to do that
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Congrats!  I guess I'm not the newest owner on the list anymore.

Sam
C 35 mk III
SF

On Thu, Feb 11, 2016 at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell
> you what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts
> ZCC40 something...
>
> Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
>
> ZCC = the three letter code for C Yachts. The first three characters are
> a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the
> manufacturer.
>
> Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the
> manufacturer.  C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e.
> boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.
>
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was
> a 37" boat after 1993)
>
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
>
> C0 = March of 1990
>
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
>
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it
>> was built before that or finished somewhere else.
>>
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest
>> Canadian C's out there.
>>
>> Congratulations.
>>
>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>>
>> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>>
>> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Al,
>>>  It's a great boat!  Welcome.
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C 37+
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 8:09 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C 37/40+ Elendil out of
 Victoria.

 Cheers, Al


 ___

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>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I can't speak for international shipping, but I placed on order yesterday
for some butyl from Compass Marine (aka Maine Sail) to San Francisco and
got a shipping confirmation email today.  Should be here on Thursday.

Sam
C 35 mk III

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:30 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As a heads-up (only if you are *not* in USA, I hope)  ... unfortunately
> several attempts to contact Compass for a shipping quote on Bed-it went
> unanswered. YMMV of course.
>
> *From:* Brian Fry via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 09, 2016 11:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brian Fry 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Butyl
>
>
> Thanks for the excellent link on butyl.
>
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 15:40:26 GMT
> > From: "Danny Haughey" 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> > Message-ID: <20160209.104026.2276...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> >
> > Go to compass marine and get the stuff they sell.
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects I used it to bed the
> hatch, handrails, traveler, and any other hardware on deck. Read his
> rebedding advice as well.   Danny
> >
> > -- Original Message --
> > From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape
> > Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:28:58 -0500
> >
> >
> > I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc.
> I prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes
> out of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
> Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations
> for thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses? Charlie
> NelsonWater PhantomC 36 XL/kcbNew Bern, NCcenel...@aol.com
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160209/5aeff9b2/attachment-0001.html
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 11:07:10 -0500
> > From: "Marek Dziedzic \(hotmail\)" 
> > To: 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> > Message-ID: 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Main Sail?s tape is the best (;-).
> > Compass Marine in Maine (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)
> >
> > Marek
> >
> >
> > From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 10:29
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape
> >
> > I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc.
> I prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes
> out of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
> >
> > Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's
> recommendations for thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for
> these uses?
> >
> > Charlie Nelson
> > Water Phantom
> > C 36 XL/kcb
> > New Bern, NC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > cenel...@aol.com
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160209/e6682dde/attachment-0001.html
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
>
> --
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I would have taken Tim's Martec too, but it looks like Bill beat me to it.

Jim, could you let me know off-list how much you would like for your fixed
prop?  My boat's hauled for maintenance at the moment and I'd like to get
the prop situation figured out soon before it's due to go back in.

Thanks,
Sam

On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 2:50 PM, Bill Blight via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tim
> I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a
> Martec 18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine.  Can you
> please let me know if this prop is still available.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> CC 35 MkIII
>
> *From:* Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
> Sam,
>
> I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that
> you are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It
> came off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission.
>
> Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with
> performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more
> than another) at low revs...
>
> Tim
> (ex Mojito; C 35-3 Newport, RI)
>
> On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X
>> 10 RH. We can talk.
>> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Sam,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward
>>> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it
>>> works for me.
>>>
>>> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *Hampton VA*
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
>>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the
>>> prop had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two
>>> blade.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.
>>> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling
>>> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have
>>> any thoughts on this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Sam
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: *Carston Grasvik* <cars...@svendsens.com>
>>> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
>>> Subject: FW: Propeller for C 35
>>> To: Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> Hi Sam,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated
>>> for you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine.
>>> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Carston
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net]
>>> *Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
>>> *To:* Carston Grasvik
>>> *Subject:* Propeller for C 35
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!
>>> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12
>>> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPIT

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks, everyone!

Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?

Sam

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 12:48 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really
> disappointed because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly.
> I'm replacing it with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need
> to get use to it.
>
> Dave
> C 35 MK 3
> Saltaire
> Bristol, RI
>
> --
> *From: *"Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, February 3, 2016 7:35:37 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
>
> Sam,
>
>
>
> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward
> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it
> works for me.
>
> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
> Wheeler via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
>
>
> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the
> prop had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two
> blade.
>
>
>
> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.
> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling
> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have
> any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sam
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: *Carston Grasvik* <cars...@svendsens.com>
> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
> Subject: FW: Propeller for C 35
> To: Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
>
> Hi Sam,
>
>
>
> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for
> you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine.
> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
>
>
> Carston
>
>
>
> *From:* Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net]
> *Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
> *To:* Carston Grasvik
> *Subject:* Propeller for C 35
>
>
>
> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!
> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12
> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK.
>
>
>
> I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8",
> SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED
> TO 8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.
>
>
>
> KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE DISCUSS
> WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.
>
>
>
> ERNEL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a
Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those
retail for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.
Plus ongoing maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two
> blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade
> Maxprop. Less vibration.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
>
> C 35-III
>
> "BULLET"
>
> Detroit
>
> _/)~~~_/)
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Jake
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jake Brodersen
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
> Sam,
>
>
>
> My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the
> blades flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but
> the prop does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years
> old and has never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year
> motoring though.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
> Wheeler via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
>
>
> Thanks, everyone!
>
>
>
> Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low
> revs.  Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve
> that issue?
>
>
>
> Sam
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop
had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two blade.

The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.
They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling
me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have
any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Sam


-- Forwarded message --
From: Carston Grasvik 
Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
Subject: FW: Propeller for C 35
To: Sam Wheeler 


Hi Sam,



It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for
you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine.
Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.



Best Regards,



Carston



*From:* Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net]
*Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
*To:* Carston Grasvik
*Subject:* Propeller for C 35



HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!
UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12
TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK.



I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8",
SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED
TO 8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.



KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE DISCUSS
WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.



ERNEL
___

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Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish Dancer.
My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to live on and
capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm extremely
excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but this is my
first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring you all with
a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.

First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
suggestions on what works or doesn't?

Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.

On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.

Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881

Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.

Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
a great community.

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Josh: Yes - thinking about alternating current if I go with a holding plate
refrigeration system (for food and drink) that could stay cold for an
extended period without power.  My fault on the first email, I looked back
on it and realized that the "AC" reference was really misleading.

For the climate here, I have zero interest in air conditioning for the
cabin.

Mooring balls aren't really an option in my area, and I don't have any
immediate plans to add solar, so it'll be shore power for a while at least,
with all the disadvantages that go along with that.  Thanks for the
suggestion though.  A DC fridge would give me a lot more flexibility if
circumstances change sometime down the line.

Doug: Thanks for all the details.  If you have a chance to take a photo of
the installation next time you're on the boat I'd be interested, but don't
go out of your way.

Also just realized that I called Jake "James" in my last email.  Sorry
about that.  Great way to make a first impression on my part...

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sam,
>
> After reading other's posts it appears to me that there may have been some
> confusion.  The "AC system" to which you referred is an alternating current
> system for refrigerating food not an Air Conditioning system, correct?
>
> The air cooling you referred to was instead of a keel cooler or water
> cooled refrigeration (again for food), correct?
>
> I apologize for creating some confusion too since I simply referred to my
> system as an aldor-barbour.  I originally failed to follow your link but
> now realize that you had linked to an aldor-barbour system.  So more
> accurately stated mine is a two piece system.  I do not know anything about
> the install process for mine but did talk to a rep from nova-cool who
> described being able to easily connect/disconnect the fittings without
> losing the refrigerant.  That rep also stated that typically a 100w solar
> panel produced enough power to keep the fridge going 24/7.  This is
> particularly nice if you're ever considering keeping the boat on a mooring
> ball.  The only reason I stay on shore power is to keep the fridge cold.
> So getting solar is a high priority for me.  Cutting the cord can save
> zincs, minimize risk of fire and risk of shock.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 14, 2015 9:38 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
>> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
>> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
>> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
>> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
>> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>>
>> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
>> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
>> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>>
>> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a
>> night away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with
>> a holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
>> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
>> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
>> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>>
>> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
>> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
>> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
>> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
>> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
>> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>>
>> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
>> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>>
>> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
>> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems
>> like a great community.
>>
>> Sam
>>
>> Spanish Dancer
>> C 35 mk III
>> San Francisco
>>
>> ___
>>

Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks, everyone!  I'll keep it all in mind and let you know what I end up
doing.

To clarify, I was considering an AC (as opposed to DC) holding plate
refrigeration system if it's going to run off shore power anyway.  No need
for air conditioning here in SF, thankfully.

In terms of just using ice instead, I think for anything short of living
aboard that's probably what I'd do.  I'm hoping to be on the boat full time
by April though so for everyday use I'd rather have refrigeration.

If someone out there has used a one piece kit, I'd still be really
interested about your experience with it.  The simplicity is tempting but I
haven't found any firsthand reviews.  Point taken on the installation,
James, but it seems like I should be able to cut a hole from the aft side
of the ice box so the compressor extends into the port lazarette.  Thoughts?

Sam

Spanish Dancer
C 35 mk III
San Francisco

On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 7:29 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> Welcome to the group.  You seem to be considering your options wisely.
> Systems relying on shorepower seem to be the most common way to go.  You
> could probably run refrigeration off of batteries, but AC needs more amps
> to start the compressor and lying at anchor will eventually require a good
> sized generator.  Plus, when at anchor, you usually have some breeze to
> stay cool, so don't need AC.
>
> I added 120v reverse cycle 16000 BTU on our 35.5 ft 34R.  It does a nice
> job when it's 100 degrees.  Also heats the boat when it's 40 out.  Chose to
> wait on refrigeration since ice is cheap and no maintenance.
>
> I would encourage you to do your projects so you also keep the boat
> sailable, otherwise you may feel a slave to the boat.  Plan the big
> projects for the winter and sail as much as possible.  I learned that the
> hard way.
> Good luck with the boat.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Sam Wheeler" <samwheeler.s...@gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, December 14, 2015 9:37:42 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C 35 mk III Spanish
> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>
> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>
> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
> away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
> holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>
> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>
> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>
> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>
> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
> a great community.
>
> Sam
>
> Spanish Dancer
> C 35 mk III
> San Francisco
>
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