Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

I don't believe home Co detectors actually detect Co.  I set mine off over 
charging my 8d battery. Pretty sure batteries off gas hydrogen and not Co.   
Anyone know how they actually work? Or is my chemistry lacking?


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  
Date: 2017-11-27  16:44  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Stus-List CO detector choices 






My original coal mine CO detector died long ago. I replaced it with a Xintex 
marine CO detector. It is now old enough to need replacement or a factory refurb
 if they will do it. That will cost either $140 or so for new or $25 for a 
refurb. So I was in the hardware store and what do you know – a home CO 
detector for $25 brand new and it runs on batteries.
Does anyone have any idea if these are suitable for a boat? I am going to get 
something, no way do I want people sleeping below without some kind of alarm.
 
 
 
Joe Della Barba

Coquina



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List survey says...

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Seems reasonable. The hull will spring back into place. Mine has done so a 
number of years if I don't get to adjusting the pads just right after it gets 
moves in the yard. Shouldn't be much pressure there anyways. The pads are only 
to keep the boat from falling over. The two leaks are common areas. Mast boot 
around keel stepped mast and new bedding of either the hatch or the glazing in 
the hatch is likely all that is needed. 
Enjoy.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List"  
Date: 2017-10-19  07:40  (GMT-04:00) 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
Subject: Stus-List survey says... 

Hi all,
I've gotten the survey back on the 1987 30MKii I'm considering. 
Above average condition overall, the surveyor was impressed by the condition 
overall.

The rudder has significant water intrusion despite previous repairs, there are 
slight depressions in the hull on the aft supports due to boat being on the 
hard for over a year (surveyor thinks these will come out when launched but 
need to address it now by putting wider pads), and there appear to be two leaks 
- one at the forward hatch and one possibly around the mast (there was a bit of 
water on the cushion just forward of the galley). Boat has recent (2015) new 
sails, 2 new ST winches, and a new mast track.
FMV estimate is ~18% below asking price.
Given this, any final words of wisdom for me as try to negotiate a final deal?
Thanks in advance.



Lisle
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Working on my Qm I have found patience a must. 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List  
Date: 2017-09-27  11:12  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Hobson  
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets 

Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected 
engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after 
switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be 
putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the 
must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them 
back together? 

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Any idea of the boat name/colout?


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2017-07-18  11:30  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Rules of the Road 

Yesterday afternoon, having a pleasant sail in Halifax harbor, 5.5 
knots, starboard tack with a 25' to 30' cape island power boat 
approaching at about the same speed on my port side.

As we approached each other, I was judging distance and time and it 
became clear we were on a collision course.  Since I was under sail and 
he was a leisure boat, not commercial, under power I assumed he would 
give way..maybe slow his speed and let me cross in front of him or 
he would duck behind me.

Not happeningI could see him looking right at me so it was not a 
case where he didn't, couldn't see me.at the last moment when I 
realized he wasn't going to give me right of way,  I 'crashed 
tacked'..I didn't even have time to release the jib...just spun 
around 180 degrees and he passed approx. 3' from my transom. There were 
two people sitting in chairs on his back deck that saw me and looked 
bewildered wondering why I was so close to them.

He didn't slow down, didn't alter his course, didn't acknowledge me in 
any way.   If I had not turned, we would have collided..given my 
judgement of the situation, he would have T-boned me about mid ship, 
port side at 5 to 6 knots.

I will be more careful in the future..this was way too close and 
totally unnecessary.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Ditto on mine. As well, unless you turn the boat upside down you can take all 
the stays off. Light winds of course. Mast isn't going to fall out of the cabin.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2017-05-11  09:26  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Backstay length and tension 


Gary



Good point.when I reattach mine, I have the second person
holding the backstay(s) push the adjuster all the way up ...usually
with a boat hook.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 -84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-05-11 9:17 AM, Gary Nylander
  via CnC-List wrote:



  
  
  
I have the split backstay arrangement
as well. Probably the yard guys didn’t push the adjuster up
all the way to the split when they were reattaching the
backstays. Just a guess.
 
Gary
St. Michaels MD


  



  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Now if Garmin would only combine the as box with their vhf box they'd be an 
industry leader. It could be their vhf 900 series. 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-10-12  2:19 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Pete Shelquist  
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF 

FWIW, my separate Garmin AIS and radio use one antenna.  The AIS has a built in 
splitter.  This is nothing new.  



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

I can't see any reason not to use a single antenna on vessels that are 
voluntarily equipped with AIS. Time will tell if the recreational market is big 
enough for someone to make a suitable rig. It ought to be, in my opinion. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Della Barba wrote: 
☹
That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the 
masthead antenna for both.
Dang!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to allow 
the GX2200 to transmit.  That takes a bunch more electronics, and also a lot of 
FCC certification.  If you look at the new VHF/AIS transceiver, it’s actually 
got TWO antenna connections on the back; one for VHF and one for AIS.  That 
would be tough to add to the GX2200…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m at 
anchor as seen from directly astern.
A picture is worth a lot and here is a good 
example:Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-09-12  12:24 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question 


The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast
just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen
360 degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is
longer a legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a
legal requirement when motoring or motor sailing.



Am I correct?



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.







On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:



  
  Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware
  of, a steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still 
required, when motoring at night, along
  with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light.  Maybe Canadian regs
  are different.
  

  
  On your existing fixture, the black is probably a
common ground for the deck and steaming light; the red and green
will be separate positive leads for each of the two lights.
  

  
  The replacement light from the Binnacle may only
show one white wire; but my guess is that it contains three
conductors, the same as the existing fixture.
  

  
  — Fred


  
  



  

  


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis

  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  





  
On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:


When
up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming,
Bow, Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad
shape.probably the original 32 years old.  Will
probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this
Fall although I understand this light is no longer
legally required...but I do like the halogen
foredeck light.

  

  I
found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost
similar to the existing one:

  

  
Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html

  

  It
appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3)
white wires exiting the foot of the mast connecting to
'green, red and black' ..I assume the green is
negative, red is positive and black in ground.

  

  Here's
the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle
only has one white wire as a connection...there is
(are) no other places on the back of the fixture to
connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3
connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it
to be sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white
wire', how do you connect it?

  

  As
you can tell, I am no electrician.

  

  Rob
Abbott

  AZURA

  C
32 - 84

  Halifax,
N.S.
  



  
  

  
  

  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Muir Caileag is hull 549



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: RANDY via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-08-18  3:04 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Stus-List List of 30-1s 

This is great information.  Wish such a thing existed for 30-1s as well.  Could 
we start a tabulation, or does one already exist?  I only know of a few from 
this list:
Hull #1 - Anchovy - Rick Bushie - Worton, MDHull #7 - Grenadine - Randy 
Stafford - Ken Caryl, CO (tiller steering, traveler aft)Hull #377 - Nobody's 
Bargain - Ryan Doyle - New YorkHull #453 - Windburn - Michael Brown - ?Hull 
#540 - Admiral Maggie - Aaron Rouhi - Annapolis, MDHull #593 - Volunteer - Gary 
Nylander - St. Michaels, MDHull #? - Wild Cheri - Ron Frerker - St. Louis, 
MOHull #? - Sarah Jean - Nate Flesness - St. Croix River, WIHull #? - Zia - Joe 
Boyle - ?Hull #? - Muir Ca-leag - Jeff Nelson - HalifaxHull #? - Cousin - 
Antoine Rose - ?
Cheers,Randy
From: "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Frederick G Street" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 7:58:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

John — here’s some info for you:
Frank Noragon
S/V Cool Change
C Landfall 38, #001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon
(this would have been a Rhode Island boat, I believe)

Jeff Cole
1979 C Landfall 38“Masala"
(not sure of the hull number, but must be near mine; also a Rhode Island build, 
I think)
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:15 PM, John Sandford via CnC-List  
wrote:
Im just starting one judging by the feedback !I got 7 replies alreadyDo you 
have more information for Frank and Jeff,like boat name and year. Here is what 
the starting columns areHullYearOwnerBoat NameBuilt atPresent Location


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast collor straps

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

For the record you want to un-tighten the rig. Tightening should make it worse. 
Even have Backstay off. 
I put my straps on before putting my mast all the way in.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-08-02  2:35 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Alessi  
Subject: Stus-List mast collor straps 


Tightening the rig didn't work. The next step was 
to do like you suggested with adding something under the mast. I'm a little 
apprensive of causing damage to the deck with just lifting and dropping. 

 
Tom Alessi
S/V ANDIAMO
C 36, 
1980
Rockaway Bch, NY
646-283-1580
tagraph...@optonline.net
 

 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast collar straps

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

If you have any rig tension on that would do it. 
Other options, assuming you haven't had any mast step work done is to raise the 
mast up a bit, put the bolts in and drop it back down. Or shim the mast up to 
the right height.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-08-02  1:30 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Alessi  
Subject: Stus-List mast collar straps 



Hi,
This is my first season sailing  after a 
season on the hard doing repairs. When the yard re-stepped the mast the holes 
on 
the metal straps that bolt through the mast no longer align. The holes on the 
mast are lower by 3/8". As part of the rehab I had removed the mast collar. so 
I 
initially thought that I used too much caulking in the installation. I 
removed the collar and scrapped away all the caulking but the holes 
are still off. I wasn't there when the yard had originally took out the mast so 
I'm not sure if there was anything under the mast causing it to be slightly 
higher. I'm relunctant to drill a new set of holes.
  Any advice would be 
appreciated.
Thx
 
Tom Alessi
S/V ANDIAMO
C 36, 1980
Rockaway Bch, NY
646-283-1580
tagraph...@optonline.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

I race every Wednesday and some Saturdays


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-07-10  23:22  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard  
Subject: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing 

I'm curious: How many of you guys race
every Wednesday night? 







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Old wiring should be fine. Incandescent lights draw way more powere than LEDs


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List"  
Date: 2016-06-10  12:07  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Richard N. Bush" , j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting 



 Jack, if replacing an older light fixture with a new one, such as the 
Alpenglow LED lights, (see below), can you use the existing wiring? or must new 
wiring be run to the fixture? Thanks




 









Richard




1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4






Richard N. Bush 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255





 






 






-Original Message-


From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 


To: C 


Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 


Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2016 10:53 am


Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting















Bill,










Take a look at the Alpenglow LED lights. I replaced all of the old thin light 
with these and although pricy, the work very well and look great


















Best regards,


Jack Fitzgerald 



HONEY



C 39 TM


























This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Also may need to consult inland waterways rules as there are further 
restrictions. These rules apply in harbours etc where paddle boards are more 
likely to be found Www.navecenuscg.gov/pdf/naverules/naverules.pdf are the US 
ones. Canada has them as well but can't find them at the moment.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: RANDY via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-06-07  23:12  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion 

Seconded.  I believe the underlying ROW principle between different categories 
of vessel is that the more maneuverable give way to the less maneuverable.
Best Regards,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Indigo via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Indigo" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:23:13 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, 
manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most 
other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the 
absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other 
classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and careful around them, they 
do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! 

--JonathanIndigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't know 
who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know either.

With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  The 
Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row ashore or to 
neighboring boats.

Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 

"13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per se, 
except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. One 
could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing vessel" 
since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, ultimately the 
issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be "required by the ordinary 
practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." 
Source: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13

Interesting topic.  What say you?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Also ground cable to engine/transmission case can cause it. Or if yanmar the 
fuse on the engine can become corrode. Mine developed a break in the fuse 
holder and needed replacing 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-06-06  03:44  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Douglas Mountjoy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem 

I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with 
the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and 
wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small 
load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to 
short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see 
if it turns over. 
Good luck

Doug Mountjoy 
Pegasus
LF 38 hull  #4
Ballard WA. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to 
> get done.
> 
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
> turning the key.
> 
> 
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
> radio when trying to turn over the engine.
> 
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.  
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the 
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
> 
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to clean 
> contact but no effect.
> 
> 
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
> 
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
> 
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise 
> or power dip indicating that something was seized
> 
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
> presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well.  
> Nothing obviously disconnected
> 
> 
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
> what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
> 
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
> maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
> 
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin 
> the starter/solenoid directly?
> 
> 
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> 
> Mark
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Cabin top flexes upward, doors won't close. Boat flexes more than it 
should.Generally I don't think anything catestrophic would happen...immediately 
anyway. But flexing the Cabin top is likely not great.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Wayne Anstey via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-31  3:25 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
Cc: Wayne Anstey  
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2 

What happens if you don't put them on at all and only put the wedges in?

Wayne Anstey
Resilience
1964 C 30mk1
Bedford, N S, Canada 

Sent from my Bell Sony device over Canada’s largest network.

 Bruce Pope via CnC-List wrote 

> Hi Doug.
> 
> 
> I had the same problem on my 29-2.  Installed the mast for the first time 
> after transport,  tuned the rigging, everything set up and then... found the 
> tangs in a galley drawer where I had stored them for transport.  I had to 
> slacken all rigging before I could get the holes to align.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Persuasion37 via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 4:17 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2 
> 
>  Hi Doug.
> 
> 
> On my 37 I cannot install the bolts if I tune the mast first.  I've done this 
> a couple of times now and the only thing to do is loosen everything, install 
> the bolts and re-tune.
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> C 37
> 
> Long Sault
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> On May 30, 2016, at 8:05 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast 
> collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned 
> and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is 
> fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.  One says release 
> the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset 
> the mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in 
> the mast when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks. 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Doug
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Drop me a line and I'll send you pictures of what it looks like. I took mine 
out and took pics.
Jhnelson24 at Gmail dot com


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-20  9:02 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle  
Subject: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support 

Hey everyone,

I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge 
access panel in my 1976 C 30.  I've put some wood shims between the cabin 
sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix the 
problem.

Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull 
fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I could 
inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could harden to 
shore up the floor.  

Does such a thing exist?  Is that a terrible idea for any reason?  Anyone have 
any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike I'll look into this.I have dacron sails and only the one spin. Jib 
is 135. So should definitely qualify.



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 2016-05-20  10:35 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating 



Jeff
 
If your main and jibs are dacron and if you only have one jib > 110% and only 
one nylon spinnaker you qualify for recreational adjustment with is a further
 +6
 
Mike
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of jhnelson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 10:15 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: jhnelson

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating


 

Mine in Halifax is rated:


171 base + 6 for fixed prop


177 total.


 


If I chose to drop my spinnaker I


Would gain another 18 points for 195.


 


No adjustment for rolling furler


 



Sent from my Samsung device






 Original message 

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>


Date: 2016-05-20 1:34 AM (GMT-04:00) 

To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 

Subject: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating 


Listers-


 


Just wondering how many of you 30-1 owners out there have ever received a PHRF 
certificate for your boat, and what your rating was.


 


Looking at 
http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf,
 the
 range is 168-186 with mode 174 and mean 174.64 (and median 177).  But it's 
hard to know the particulars of all those boats that were rated e.g. how many 
had folding props. And there may be rating inconsistency between US Sailing 
regional sailing associations.


 


The PHRF chairman of my regional sailing association gave my 30-1 base PHRF of 
186, and an adjusted PHRF of 180 (a -6 adjustment due to spinnaker max width 
>180% of J).  AFAIK my
 boat is totally stock, including a fixed two-blade prop.


 


Just wondering how my PHRF ratings compare to other 30-1s' PHRF ratings, and 
wondering about the particulars of the 30-1s that got rated.


 


Thanks In Advance,


Randy Stafford


S/V Grenadine


C 30-1 #7


Ken Caryl, CO



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Mine flexed quite a bit. There is a cardboard tube covered in fiberglass that 
runs the length of the main cabin sole starboard side of the bilge access. When 
putting in the teak and holly floor they had drilled though it causing wayer to 
deteriorate the structure and balsa core.I pulled mine, replaced the core with 
divinity core and put it back in place. Now just need to replace the teak and 
holly.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Joseph Bognar via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-20  10:43 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joseph Bognar  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support 

I find it odd that your cabin sole flexes so much. Have you checked your mast 
step . If it has dropped or the wood support is rotten as it sits in water then 
it may be the cause of your weak sole . I own a 1979 era 30 and my cabin sole 
is solid . I also have teak and holly through out the cabin . Instead of foam 
you could epoxy in some hard wood wedges in the troublesome area. I would 
investigate it more as to why it is so weak though 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On May 20, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge 
> access panel in my 1976 C 30.  I've put some wood shims between the cabin 
> sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix 
> the problem.
> 
> Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull 
> fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I 
> could inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could 
> harden to shore up the floor.  
> 
> Does such a thing exist?  Is that a terrible idea for any reason?  Anyone 
> have any other suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Ryan
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Mine in Halifax is rated:171 base + 6 for fixed prop177 total.
If I chose to drop my spinnaker IWould gain another 18 points for 195.
No adjustment for rolling furler
Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-20  1:34 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating 

Listers-
Just wondering how many of you 30-1 owners out there have ever received a PHRF 
certificate for your boat, and what your rating was.
Looking at 
http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf,
 the range is 168-186 with mode 174 and mean 174.64 (and median 177).  But it's 
hard to know the particulars of all those boats that were rated e.g. how many 
had folding props. And there may be rating inconsistency between US Sailing 
regional sailing associations.
The PHRF chairman of my regional sailing association gave my 30-1 base PHRF of 
186, and an adjusted PHRF of 180 (a -6 adjustment due to spinnaker max width 
>180% of J).  AFAIK my boat is totally stock, including a fixed two-blade prop.
Just wondering how my PHRF ratings compare to other 30-1s' PHRF ratings, and 
wondering about the particulars of the 30-1s that got rated.
Thanks In Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Try clearing browser cache. Sometimes a redirect gets muddled in. I had that 
problem with Leevalley when the did mtc on their site, my browser always wanted 
to Goto their site temporarily down page instead of regular home page.
If you can start by clearing browser history,If that doesn't work move on to 
cache clearing completely. 



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-10  12:27 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Peter Fell  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website 




Thanks guys.
 
It’s a mystery at this point.


 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Just you I was on it a bunch today


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-09  8:31 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Peter Fell  
Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website 




Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last 
week or so?
 
Peter 
Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you are 
looking for.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-08  10:58 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Fountain  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts 


Steve,



I'd check Canadian Tire, they have a selection of terminals many that don't 
require swaging. May have a post conversion too



Sent from Outlook Mobile









On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:34 AM -0700, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
 wrote:





Hi All,



I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. I 
didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and now that they're 
on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work with these batteries. 
I had made considerations
 about size, space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the 
posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)



Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg





1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!



I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I need 
it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is entirely in 
the realm of possibility.



I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove the 
cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed through the 
boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.



Thanks,



Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto








___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Pretty much. You may have to go more than a 1/4 turn. But it will become 
obvious how much once you get startedSome of mine the nuts had backed off 
almost completely.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-01  4:27 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Stus-List C 25 leak 

Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.   
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is 
my thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for sanctioned offshore race it would 
need to be modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is very similar to mine 
and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-02-19  10:11 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca 
Subject: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness 


West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness on sale today only for 150 
bucks. (U.S.)

I have no experience with the product, but I just paid more than twice that 
much for a Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

It could be at the cockpit sole. If yours is like mine, C wasn't terribly 
precise in drilling the hole for the rudder stock to go through. That left very 
little material to support the top bearing bolts laterally and over time the 
glass could have broken out.  A little bit if new glass to rebuild the area and 
you could be good. There are 4 bolts reasonably accessibleFrom below the 
cockpit if you want to pull it off for a look.  Remember to support your 
rudder, as the top bearing and pin is the only thing keeping it in the boat.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-01-22  14:05  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller 

Hi Josh,
Thanks very much.  My apologies.. I should have been clearer in my description 
of the issue.  The play is certainly not in the attachment of the wood tiller 
to the metal plates or the stock head (option 1 or 2).  That would have been 
too easy.  It is below that in what I think is (4) the deck bushing. 
Thanks again in advance for the help.
Ryan

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2016 13:37:37 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Not real clear where the play is.  It looks like there are at least 4
interfaces which need checked to determine the feasibility of reducing the
play.

1 - Wood to metal plates transition on the tiller.

2 -  Metal plates on tiller to rudder stock head (square).

3 - Rudder stock head (square) to rudder stock (round) .

4 - Rudder stock (round) moving side to side (port/stbd) in the deck
bushing.

Let us know where the play is being experienced and I'm sure someone will
have answers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jib sheet

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Well stated.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-01-06  22:40  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet 

Mike,
If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override or
other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just
one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged
to the sail).  If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you
won't likely snag your baby stay with the knot.  If you're contemplating the
single sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to
the clew as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will
hurt like hell!
Having been a bow guy on a C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can
testify to the wisdom of having two sheets.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
Acoustiguardcom

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Any chance there is a crack in a cockpit drain hose and under motor when the 
boat says a bit it is forcing water through the hose Crack? Rain water and such 
would likely flow straight through without significant or any leakage.
Just a thought and easier than removing and retourquing keel bolts. 


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Sailnomad via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-12-14  12:45  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sailnomad  
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ?? 

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.

I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".
I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.

Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.
Ahmet

S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I

S/V Tabasco C 25

Winthrop, MA, USA


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Why not just use sailwave and select the appropriate  scoring system?


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-11-06  10:41  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Pete Shelquist  
Subject: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT 

I’m trying to save myself some time and not reinvent the wheel:  Does anyone 
have a spreadsheet for converting race results from TOD to TOT? From the 
results I have PHRF rating and Elapsed Time in D:HH:MM:SS format.   Thanks, ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Graham aren't most routers 12v?My airline uses a 120 to 12v adapter...so I 
suspect it would work sans adapter on the boat. Seems to me linksys now ciscoIs 
the same.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-10-28  17:39  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Graham Collins  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface 


You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.   :-) 

Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson
  via CnC-List wrote:



  Just spent $200 on a flyer:




https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin



If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.  

  

  
  -- 

  Joel 

301 541 8551

  
  

  
  

  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Yes you won't be able to make martini's



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: John Russo via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-10-26  21:20  (GMT-04:00) 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Russo  
Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank 

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as an 
alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The drain 
in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always some 
residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve open for 
expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank connections. 
Any advice would be appreciated. JohnArpeggio C 32Norwalk, CT___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List VC17

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Any possibility you are getting galvanic corrosion? We had a similar issue at 
Nepean Sailing Club, where the tannic acid from years of logging created a 
battery when different metals were in close proximity. We  ended up losing a 
number of marina mooring chains. All were corroded just below the water. 
Analysis by NRC people figured out the number of anodes required to protect the 
moorings. I'm sure some poking around with a volt meter could confirm.  Not 
sure of the makeup of water in Lake Winnipeg...but just an out of the box idea 
as it sounds similar in location.
Food for thought.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List  
Date: 13-10-2015  16:46  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brent Driedger  
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 

Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still 
have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf 
life. Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't 
stay put!
Brent27-5Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my Interprotect. 
  I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on the instructions. 
 No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to stick to later 
interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor thruhulls and 
Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did wipe the 
Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they recommended 
216.      


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17

Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply 
the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it 
bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially cured 
material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a knuckle print 
but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first coat. If I recall, 
it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently. Basically, very little will 
stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect. Since I use Petit ablative 
paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad Pro. After it was cured/dry, I 
painted with the final bottom paint. No problems in the last 6 or 7 years. I 
can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that is 
what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told is is 
because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also been 
told that the UV is a contributing factor. Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 First coat of bottom paint has to go onto 
Interprotect 2000 while the interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling 
correctly.  I've overcoated Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good 
results.

Graham CollinsSecret PlansC 35-III #11On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via 
CnC-List wrote:Brent,That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some 
sanding dust on the hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags 
dipped in a solvent, before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any 
pictures?  Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 

To: "C List" 
Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
Subject: Stus-List VC17 Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy 
Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal 

Re: Stus-List Rebuild suggestions for Atomic IV

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Fix oil pan so you can change oilEasier.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Wally Kowal via CnC-List  
Date: 10-10-2015  16:19  (GMT-04:00) 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Wally Kowal  
Subject: Stus-List Rebuild suggestions for Atomic IV 

We are pulling the A4 from our C 30 '73 tomorrow and my son is going to work 
on it over the winter for his term project in auto shop class.
The motor gets light use in fresh water so I do not want to go with electronic 
ignition or other bells and whistles.  The boat has little residual value 
despite the fact that it is structurally solid and a hell of a lot of fun to 
sail and cruise in, so I do not want to invest too much in the rebuild.
What do you suggest replacing on it while we have it out?
WallyWhistler IIC 30 '73 
Hull #190Penetanguishene, ON

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Likely you are down to grinder and cutting wheel. If you go straight down 
through the top you can likely split the nut.  Or you can get a pupose built 
nut splitter from princess auto.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 05-10-2015  21:24  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt 

I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt 
on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should 
be able to come apart should it need to.

I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a 
product is not the answer.   I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 
'tool' that can grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping 
it further and giving my right hand a palm blister.

I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and 
the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge.

The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a 
wrench on it with any force doesn't work either.  I can't turn the bolt 
and I can't turn the nut.  I could simply ignore the problem for now but 
someday I have to get this opened so I might as well not ignore the 
problem now.

Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

If you have room 4 inch grinder with a good cutting disk. An option might be to 
just cut a slot in the bolt head and use a large slot screwdriver to turn it 
out. If that doest workYou can use the grinder to take the whole head of the 
bolt off.
You can do the same with a Dremel but it will take a whole lot longer.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 05-10-2015  22:19  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt 


Josh:



The head of the bolt is too close to the SS tube to get a grip on it
with a pair of vice-grips.and the nut is 'recessed' so it
doesn't turn when you tighten or loosen the bolt.can't get
vice-grip or a wrench on it .



Maybe try to cut the bolt head off is the viable option..I
assume SS will be tough cut?



If I try to cut it, what would be the tool of choice?



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-10-05 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  I've had some shocking success with vise-grips. 
Maybe try one on each side?  Maybe you'll get lucky and the bolt
will just break.
  Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD
  On Oct 5, 2015 8:24 PM, "robert via
CnC-List" 
wrote:

I have a 'pebble in my shoe'
  kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt on my bimini is
  seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be able
  to come apart should it need to.

  

  I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid
  Wench.obviously, a product is not the answer.   I tried
  today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can grip a
  'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it further
  and giving my right hand a palm blister.

  

  I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of
  the bolt and the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge.

  

  The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that
  getting a wrench on it with any force doesn't work either.  I
  can't turn the bolt and I can't turn the nut.  I could simply
  ignore the problem for now but someday I have to get this
  opened so I might as well not ignore the problem now.

  

  Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

  

  Rob Abbott

  AZURA

  C 32 - 84

  Halifax, N.S.

  

  

  ___

  

  Email address:

  CnC-List@cnc-list.com

  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
  to the bottom of page at:

  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  


  
  

  
  

  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

That's what I do as well. Mostly all upside.Keeps the halyard away from the 
mast so no slapping or chaffing.  Only downside is having to reconnect halyard 
when going sailing, but that's not a big deal since I have to be up there 
anyway to remove the sail cover.



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: William Walker via CnC-List  
Date: 30-09-2015  08:59  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift 

Dennis, I too have garhauer rigid and it was the first upgrade made to my boat. 
 Wouldn't be without it.

  Do you see any downside to using the main halyard as topping lift when sails 
down ?  Done this for years without adverse effects that I can see.  I removed 
topping lift.   

Bill Walker

CnC 36




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the main 
to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is not 
hoisted.

In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or boomkicker.  
If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom enough to twist 
off the main.

The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you to 
detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.

Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular, wire 
topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.  In 
severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten pocket 
gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they will, over 
time, cause damage to the stitching.

We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is always 
detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a Garhauer 
rigid boom vang.

On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the 
mainsail is not hoisted.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Starter

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then could be 
fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground at the 
transmission to enginebolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to 
check.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 07-28-2015  11:51  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net 
Subject: Stus-List Starter 

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

You have to live outside Canada.No such thing as cheap booze here.



Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 06-18-2015  16:51  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips? 


Lee, What is the cheap booze trick? I just use a metal winch handle.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List Date: Thu, Jun 
18, 2015 11:18To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Lee Youngblood;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?OK Martin,I’ll bite. . .  
Can you share a few offshore fishing tips?I know the cheap booze spray bottle 
trick, but you probably invented it with a sneeze to the gills. . . Thanks, Lee 
 On Jun 18, 2015, at 10:25 AM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  wrote: If the 
story teller was Texas John then it was the '77 delivery back from Hawaii 
following our 1st Transpac as a crew on the CC 39 Midnight Special.  That 
delivery was one of my favorite of my 4 east bound Hawaii deliveries.  Great 
weather and crew, reading in the cockpit by moon light, 2 weeks on one tack, 
getting ready for night watch by putting on a T-shirt, and teaching the crew 
the words to Jimmy Buffett's Cheeseburger in Paradise.  We hit the dock at 
Shilshole around dawn on a weekday.  By 9AM we were loaded into my 1969 Ford 
Econoline van headed to one of the crew's lakeside houses for a party.  It was 
a great year to be young, single, and hooked on offshore sailing.  The one 
thing that would have improved it would be to know what I now know about 
offshore fishing under sail.  Back in 77 no one on the crew knew how to catch 
tuna and mahi mahi.  With what I learned on later Hawaii deliveries we could 
have been eating like kings most of the trip back to Seattle.  Martin 
DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 
Seattle___Email 
address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Starting problems

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

There is a fuse that sits on the back port quarter of the engine which the 
wiring to the panel goes to. Without it nothing works. My fuse Block cracked 
and was giving intermittent connection. Drove me nuts until I found the secret 
hiding spot for it. Rewired it to a circuit breaker and all has Ben good since.
Good luck.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 05-22-2015  22:15  (GMT-04:00) 
To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problems 


  ‎I had a similar problem 3 seasons ago. It was bad or corroded 
connections and wiring. 35 years is pretty good, but everything needs replacing 
eventually. I replaced all the major electrical lines around the batteries, 
main switch and engine with pre made auto lines from Canadian Tire (maybe 
Autozone in the US). Cost was about $65 CDN for my 26 No more problems since.   

   


   sam :-)CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta 


From: Dennis C. via 
CnC-ListSent: Friday, May 22, 2015 7:58 AMTo: CnClistReply To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Just a caution, a check of voltage or resistance is only a part of the puzzle.  
If the connection(s) on one or both ends are corroded, it may still pass a 
small amount of current to show voltage but may not pass enough current to 
support the user, i.e. pump or starter, etc.

Connections must be clean to pass current.

Dennis C.

On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 8:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Derek,
Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and 
check each connection. 
Could also be your starter solenoid. 
Good luck. 


All the best,
Edd
---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BCC 
37+ | City Island, 
NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400  | 
Office914.774.9767  | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 
6iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC
30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm
sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and
the alarm stops.


This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned
the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I
pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in
my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the
charger showed full charge on both batteries. 


This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the
process the engine started. 


I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a
replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with
them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. 


I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at
the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t
solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm
and pressing the starter button got no reaction.


I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for
help. Thanks in advance
Derek Kennedy

TortugaCC 30 mk1

Ballantyne’s Cove, NS
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___



Email address:

CnC-List@cnc-list.com

To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com