Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Is the prop clean? I may also be the fuel filters. It sounds like low fuel 
flow. Put in new filters, and bleed the system. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G 
LTE Device
 Original message From: Dave via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/7/21  18:17  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: syerd...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List universal M20 
diesel question Evening all.   Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel 
issue.   His engine will rev freely at idle but with the transmission engaged 
in either forward or reverse, revs increase very  slowly and only to 1800-2000 
RPM on the tach.   (whether tach is accurate or not, RPM under load is much 
lower than no-load, and  RPM increases quite slowly.)We have verified that 
neither the exhaust system nor the fuel supply to the high pressure pump is 
obstructed.  Air Intake is clear.  The speed lever works smoothly to its full 
travel.   The compression release is not engaged.  The engine runs a new facet 
electric fuel pump with plenty of flow.When the engine is running, no fuel 
returns to the tank via the return line.  The return line is not blocked, at 
least not downstream from the return barb at the injector.  I am not sure under 
what circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a diesel, as the 
return occurs after the high pressure pump.   All This leads me to suspect a 
fuel (volume) problem but i am not exactly sure where to look next.      I 
believe all that’s left are injectors and high pressure pump.  The high 
pressure pump has a governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel 
flow. Any thoughts? Many thanks!   Dave 33-2 Sent from Mail for Windows Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Glad to hear all are ok. Out here on the west coast I would like a little bit 
of your wind. Sailind down to San Diego in 2-10kts of wind makes for a long 
motor. Heading out the Straits of Juan de Fuca we beat head on into 19kts of 
wind. Turned the corner at Cape Flattery today, we were able to sail for a 
couple of hours before the wind died. Currently anchored in a little recess 
heading to Grays Harbor tomorrow 75 nm south. Predict wind is calling for 10 - 
15 kt winds on a broad reach in the morning then dieing to nothing by mid 
afternoon.  If anyone is interested i can be tracked on Find Ship app Rebecca 
Leah.  Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: filling holes in coachtop

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Counter sink top and bottom, tape over bottom of hole. Then fill with thickened 
epoxy. I go for about the consistency of ketchup. Without the counter sink. It 
will crack over time. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/27/21  09:00  (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Wade Glew  Subject: Stus-List 
filling holes in coachtop Hi all,On my 33-MK 2, I want to move the coach top 
winches about 12-18 inches from their current location.   The site I'm moving 
them to is a designated location by design and the coach top is round and flat 
in the new location to allow a winch placement.   My question is, can I just 
fill the old holes with unthickened epoxy or   what would be 
recommended?thanks for your thoughtsWadeOh Boy, 33 MK 2
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I went with the excel also based on Panopes observations.  I have the 45lb 
excel backed up by 300ft 5/16 G4 chain. A friend and I were rated on his 35lb 
Spade anchor and 100 ft of chain no issues. His boat is a Pretorian 35, 15k lbs 
, mine is a landfall 39 24k lbs. The 2 of us have been on my anchor with a 4 to 
1 scope in 20+ kts and no sign of dragging. I always go up one size on the 
anchor, and have at least a boat length worth of chain. When I replaced my 
windlass a couple of years ago I decided to go to an all chain rode. Sent from 
my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/23/21  11:24  (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Jim Watts  Subject: 
Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users? I have a 35 lb genuine Bruce as a backup 
to my 35 lb Delta. Works for me so far, but I am thinking of going to a 37 lb 
Excel to replace the Delta based on Panope's testing. I paid $1/lb for the 
Bruce, but I'm special. It replaced a 22 lb Lewmar Claw, and the differences in 
shape, fluke sharpness, and workmanship are obvious. Jim WattsParadigm ShiftC 
35 Mk IIIVictoria, BCOn Mon, 23 Aug 2021 at 07:44, Della Barba, Joe via 
CnC-List  wrote:








Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think it 
will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?
 
Joe
Coquina




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

A true Bruce is better than a Danforth. I have an Excell based on these 
videos.They are long videos but I think very informative.  
https://youtu.be/smgWTtFuk3Uhttps://youtu.be/ua21k2abK1QFWIW Sent from my 
T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 8/23/21  07:44  (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
Subject: Stus-List any Bruce anchor users? 


Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think it 
will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?
 
Joe
Coquina




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Steering cable

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

FWI. Back in the day of rigging airplanes. I would use heat shrink (non 
adhesive type) to connect the old and new cables. Pull out old cable gently and 
new will be routed correctly.  DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 1984 Landfall 43

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,I also have the LF 39. The chain plates are 3/8th stainless bar stock 
through bolted to frame members glassed to the hull, they are about 3 feet 
long. I pulled my mast 3 years ago, replaced the rod rigging, and basically 
rebuilt the mast. Goose neck was trashed. Major reason for yarding out the 
mast. At that time I lulled all the chain plates and inspected. I found minor 
pitting where water had gotten to the bolts. A quick clean up with red scotch 
Brite, new bolts and back together. I would imagine the 43 is similar in 
construction. FWIWDoug. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 re-power HP

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I would go with the largest 30 to 35 hp. You may not always need the extra 
power, but it is a lifesaver when you do. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/16/21  14:08  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeremy Ralph  Subject: 
Stus-List C 34 re-power HP Hello,I have a 1978 C 34 with original Yanmar 
2QM20.  Looking at Betas and wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to 
repower.  I've heard of people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats.  We're in the 
Salish Sea off of Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and 
current.Thanks  Jeremy
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi JoeI would love one. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Ourtime via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/15/21  13:22  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ourtime  Subject: Stus-List Re: 
Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge 
If it's still available, I'd like to give it a good home.



-Original Message-
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 12:28 pm
Subject: Stus-List Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge







This is for a fuel filter to see if it is clogged. It has the nice color-coded 
scale.

$20 to Stu and it’s yours 

  


  

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

  

  



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List 35-5 outhaul control line

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Is the current outhaul line still there? Can you attach a new line to old and 
pull it thru?I use whipping twine to sew old and new lines end to end then 
gently pull in new line. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port 
Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/6/19  10:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Luke Wolbrink  Subject: 
Stus-List 35-5 outhaul control line Hello,I'm currently re-rigging my 35-3  and 
have run into some trouble with the outhaul. There is clearly a purchase system 
inside the boom making replacing the control line that comes out at the 
gooseneck impossible. Is there anyone on here who has made this replacement and 
if so is it possible without taking apart the boom? If I do need to take it 
apart, is it better done from the gooseneck or the clew end?Thanks in 
advance,Luke1985 35-3 'Zella'
___

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Re: Stus-List therapy and patriotism

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Andy, I have the same philosophy. I too spend all my money on Rebecca Leah. 
Sometimes I'll sneak a few dollars to spend on my hot rod truck or motorcycle. 
BUT I don't let her know. Last summer she got new rigging,  and she just  got 
new electronics.  I think I might need some intervention. LOL.  Doug Mountjoy 
Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/28/19  12:28  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List therapy and patriotism I have a strict budget for maintaining my 
boats; I just spend every penny I have. It's simple.AndyAndrew Burton139 
Tuckerman AveMiddletown, RI USA    
02842www.burtonsailing.comhttp://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401
 965-5260On Apr 28, 2019, at 14:07, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
 wrote:


FWIW, I put all of my receipts into a folder for warranty sake and in case I 
need to reorder something that worked well. But I'm afraid to ever add up the 
expenses. I consider this sailing hobby and maintaining a work of art like a 
C sailboat to be therapy in many ways.   It provides many hours of physical 
work as well as keeping me healthy mentally, problem solving and learning new 
skills.  I should be able to write off the expenses as medicine.  A boat also 
provides a great opportunity to help the economy when buying all the necessary 
materials and just the taxes paid out over the fifteen year ownership would 
amount to a considerable sum.  Makes me feel patriotic.  Now back to glorious 
sanding a priming.Chuck S
 ___Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Weird rod

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Both of the landfall models (38 & 39) have not had this bar. The 38 was hull #4 
so maybe this rod thing is post 1979, or it wasn't installed on the landfall 
models. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C & C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/26/19  11:23  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia  Subject: Stus-List 
Weird rod 
I have a metal rod in front of the rudder, which I believe
is to help avoid seaweed and other floating debris from fouling the
rudder post.  Nothing at all in front of the keel though.
Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 09:00 AM 4/26/2019, you wrote:
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 15:58:42 + (UTC)
From: johnr...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel
Message-ID: <1965119471.1023889.1556294322...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
All the C's in our yard have a metal rod that protrudes from the
underside just ahead of the keel.? No one seems to know its purpose.
John McLaughlinC 29-2Falcon


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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

My Landfall 39 has crossed the Pacific a couple of time with previous owners. 
Although not a light air boat (compared to the LF38), It feels solid under full 
sail in 25kt winds. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39 1988253-208-1412Port 
Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/24/19  13:16  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeff Helsdingen  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List C as offshore boat? According to stories from the previous owner my 
35-1 sailed across the Atlantic and back with either the first or second owner. 
On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 3:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List, 
 wrote:Thanks, Dave. I think there is probably a big 
difference between going down the Pacific coast to Mexico, and going offshore 
to Hawaii or the South Pacific, mainly in that the former is limited to 3-5 
days offshore between safe ports, vs 20+ days for the latter, meaning weather 
windows are easier to hit. At this early stage, I really don't know if we'll go 
offshore, but if things go well, I'd like to go down the coast to Mexico at 
least, without having to search for another boat. If I already had enough 
experience, I'd probably just fly to California and find a boat there, then 
sail it to Mexico, and have the advantage of 10x as many boats to choose from. 
But I want to sail our local waters first, something I've wanted to do since I 
was a kid. I grew up around powerboats and fishing boats, and always looking 
longingly at the sailboats as I endured the drone and smell of the 
engine...Your accounting of your purchase is quite interesting; thanks. Does 
that include moorage/storage, insurance, etc.? If so, that is very good value. 
What do you think she would sell for today? If we had done this a few years ago 
when I was still working, I would just spend the money on a nicer boat, or not 
worry about fixing it up. But being only a few months into retirement, and with 
my wife still working but soon to retire also, the uncertainty of our real 
living expenses going forward are a significant factor. Moorage is at least 
$4K/year here, unless we can join a club, or put it on a mooring buoy, but 
winter storms are an issue with a buoy. Lots of spare parts on the beaches this 
winter from all the boats washed ashore...On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:45 AM Dave 
Godwin  wrote:Shawn,Been watching your rumination on buying 
that 35-II.I’ve delivered a C 34 from Fort Lauderdale to Port Royal, Jamaica, 
no stops. It was fine for that but all we had to deal with was constant 
headwinds for days on end.I’m flying into Ponta Delgada, Azores on May 4 to 
assist my friend on the final leg home to Gosport, England from Antigua. They 
just spent 48 hours in Force 7 conditions mid-Atlantic. I would not have wanted 
to be in my boat in those conditions. His boat is an Oyster 485. Big 
difference.I consider my boat to be a good coastal cruiser. I’d go to Bermuda 
with (hopefully) a good weather window. IMO, C’s are quite strong but have 
their limits if extended offshore passage making is the desire.Of course, the 
French regularly pile entire families on Beneteaus and cross oceans just fine.  
;-)Regards,
Dave Godwin1982 C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
P.S.Back to your purchase decision thread. We bought our boat in 1997 as a 
bank repo. The description of the 35-II sounds much better compared to the 
condition of our boat when we purchased it. One thing to consider is the 
average cost to own over time. Despite replacing/rebuilding or adding 1) engine 
rebuild, 2) all wiring, 3) plumbing, 4) cushions, 5) roller furling, 6) sails, 
7) electronics, 8) below deck autopilot, 9) stove, 10) distribution panel, 11) 
windlass, 12) fixed ports (2x), 13) opening ports (2x), 14) cabin sole (2x), 
15) Harken self-tailing deck winches (2x), 16) Harken mainsheet traveler system 
(2x), 17) all new rod and running rigging, well, I’ll stop there. No, wait. 
Completel Awlcraft paint job, hull and topsides. Whew!But here’s the deal; I 
keep detailed records as part of my rebuild “hobby” and the yearly average 
costs over time is $7,000.00 U.S. Includes everything with the exception of the 
$25,000 that we paid for it.I will be interested in your decision. Good luck!
On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
wrote:I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current 
boat purchase: how many of you have taken your C offshore, and if so, which 
boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not gone 
offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C, and how 
would the performance of the boat in these conditions make you feel about 
taking it offshore?One of the very first boats we looked at was a Westsail 32 
(don't laugh), partly because they are proven world cruisers, and the boat has 
been from BC to NZ and back. But with our fickle air in the summer here, a good 
light air boat seems like a better choice, 

Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I also had a flexible holding tank that failed. Go with a hard plastic one. 
Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/23/19  08:37  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank My parents have/had a flexible 
tank in their powerboat, which failed, making for an unpleasant job to replace. 
Not sure if it was more unpleasant that a rigid tank would have been, but I 
suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 
we are buying has a newer plastic tank under port side of vberth, 16 US gallon 
capacity. On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:22 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Listers:
 
    New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  
For reasons unrelated to a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding 
tank to gain access to the area underneath.  While it is out, I am 
considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic 
tank and be done with it.  However, some people swear by flexible tanks for 
this purpose.  What say you?
 
Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 



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supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement on 35-2

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Shawn, I replaced my 30 yr old rigging last summer only because I plan on doing 
extended off shore cruising. Had I not been planning this I would not have done 
so, as the cost was that of a new car. I did have to replace 1 roller furler, 
goose neck, and did a couple of up grades. If your worried about the rigging 
have the swages NDT inspected. If no cracks I say keep using it. FWIW. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/22/19  07:59  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright  Subject: 
Stus-List Standing rigging replacement on 35-2 Hello all,The 35-2 we are about 
to purchase has standing rigging of unknown age, although it appears to be 
solid. There is a fellow at the club where the boat is currently located who 
does rigging, and is going to give me a quote. As the boat is already being 
hauled and put on the hard for 2 weeks, and the club has a mast crane, it seems 
like a good opportunity to get it done, and also any work on the mast, check 
the keel bolt under the mast, etc. The boat has dual forestays with furlers, 
single backstay with hydraulic tensioner, and standard upper, fore & aft lower 
shrouds. Just interested in what a ballpark cost should be, and how this would 
compare to me ordering the wire are terminals and doing it myself.Also, the 
boat has 7 through hulls, all marelon which appear to be in good condition, but 
some are a bit stiff. I'm assuming this is due to growth inside and lack of 
exercise (current owner leaves them open it seems). What is the recommended 
maintenance for these during a haulout?Thanks!-- Shawn 
wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I tighten mine until there is very little slop in the wheel. I don't think 
there needs to be  much tension. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard 
YC wa.
null___

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Stus-List Folding prop vs feathering

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I hauled Rebecca Leah this past weekend to install new thru hull transducers. 
Been up grading my electronics. I noticed that my prop has some serious pitting 
and loose blades. I currently have a feathering prop. My plan is to do some 
extensive blue water cruising in the near future. So my question is which is 
better, a geared folding prop or stick with a new or rebuild my current 
feathering one? Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___

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Re: Stus-List 3QM30

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

When I had my LF38 with a 3QM30. I did try a stop cable, but it was not a cable 
that locked. Pushing down on the throttle would override the stop cable.The way 
this engine shuts down is by closing the throttle beyond the idle position. 
From idle to shutdown is only about 1/2 inch movement on a dedicated stop 
cable. I did find that the stop cable did in fact supply a little resistance, 
allowing me to get a feel of where idle was. Just before killing the engine on 
a throttle down. Another option might be a solenoid that when energized would 
allow you to go past idle into shutdown mode. I hope this helps some. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/12/19  15:46  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Alessi  Subject: 
Stus-List 3QM30 



Hey
there,

My
36', 1980 has a Yanmar 3QM30. I got the boat 4 years ago and the only way I
have to kill the engine is to throttle down. Has anyonre set up a stop cable? 

 

Tom
Alessi
646-283-1580

 



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Re: Stus-List Broken shift cable

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Fred, I can't help on length, but for installing new cable. Before pulling 
old cable out tie a 1/8 inch line to the cable to use for pulling new cable 
back in place. Once cable is out it is a simple chore to measure. I use this 
method for pulling wires, cables or what ever. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah 
LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/5/19  14:32  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Fred Hazzard  Subject: Stus-List 
Broken shift cable Sunday the shift cable on my 44 broke. Are there any 44 
owners out who have replaced this cable?My cable is a red Morse cable. My 
question is; how long is it?I would like any suggestions on how to fish a new 
cable in.  The cable comes down from the binacle runs under 2 fuel tanks and 
floorboards to the engine. Thanks Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C 44Portland Or 
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting to quadrant?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick,I installed a belowdecks autopilot on Pegasus. Contact Kyle as he 
now has Pegasus there in Shilshole. Maybe he'll let you look at the way I 
installed it. Good luckDoug. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC 
wa.
 Original message From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/3/19  19:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin  Subject: Stus-List 
Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting to quadrant? I know there was a 
thread about below-decks autopilots on the Landfall 38 where discussion ended 
up on "bolt it to the radial drive, reinforcing the attachment point." ( 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2018-May/200838.html )I'm 
researching this now, with interest in installing a Raymarine EV-200 with type 
1 mechanical linear drive, and I think it *might* be possible to do without 
bolting to the radial drive. Does anyone know if any LF38 has successfully done 
this?  I've already read dreuge's post - 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/12/below-deck-autopilot.html - which is 
excellent. But he went a different route than I want to go, so it would be 
helpful to see other photos and installation ideas. The reason I want to avoid 
bolting to the radial drive is that Edson has repeatedly advised against it, 
calling it a "likely catastrophic failure" and saying the cast aluminum fixture 
is not designed for those kind of torsional forces, it's designed for pulling 
forces (via the cables). A Type 1 ram has 650 lbs peak thrust and a type 2 has 
1050 lbs. Additionally I have found one account of someone who had their Edson 
radial explode (with autopilot mounted to it) - it took 15 years before this 
happened, but still not a risk that's worth it in my mind. The ideas I'm 
considering for doing this without mounting to the radial are: A) custom tiller 
arm, with a 90 degree bend to clear the radial drive rim. It would clamp to the 
rudder shaft in the 1.9" of available space (1.5" of that is within the bottom 
concave part of the radial drive). Note I have no diesel tank under the 
steering, which makes this easier. I don't have a design for this idea 
though.B) Jefa 270 degree quadrant with integrated tiller arm. 
https://www.jefa.com/steering/products/cable/quadrants/quadrants.htmI'm talking 
to Jefa (part of PYI now) this week. The quadrant with welded on tiller arm has 
less overall height than an Edson radial drive, so it would fit. But I'm not 
sure about positioning of the linear drive unit - it's 27.5" long and the LF38 
stern is quite narrow. Sorry for the long post. The motivation for a 
below-decks autopilot is that the wheel pilot is not strong enough for 
significant wave state (it's only rated for 16.5k lbs displacement, and the 
LF38 is more like 19-20k when loaded for cruising).-Patrick1984 C LF38
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Re: Stus-List Fixed port ahead of slider, C 37/40+

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Inch wide tape would be more than strong enough. IMHO.Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca 
Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/1/19  10:46  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: Bruce Whitmore  Subject: 
Stus-List Fixed port ahead of slider, C 37/40+ Hello all,I am (finally!) 
getting ready to replace the fixed port ahead of the slider on my C 37/40+.  
We successfully replaced the slider which had turned to rather ugly, clouded 
blue plexiglass rather than the original bronze color as a result of exposure 
to UV.  The fixed one is 22" x 31" and is presumably stuck down using Plexus as 
the side windows were.  In this case, the Plexus is 1 1/2" wide.  I am thinking 
that when I get the VHB tape to replace the Plexus, I should go with tape that 
is 1.25" wide instead of and inch and a half to allow some room for the Dow 795 
sealer to go between the deck and the tape to ensure a water tight seal.  
Coming up with tape (or a combination of tape widths to equal 1 3/8" is proving 
problematic.Do you agree with my proposed approach, or should I just go with 1 
1/2" wide tape?  Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL(847) 
404-5092 (mobile)bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net___

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Stus-List Electronics For Sale

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I am upgrading my electronics and need to get rid of my old stuff. Furuno 1720 
radar display and dome no cableGarmin 4208 plotterGarmin 3205 plotterWatchmate 
ais display, needs an ais reciever.Garmin network hubGarmin GSD 22 Datamarine 
link 5000 wind, speed,depthDatamarine 5000.Datamarine wind transducer.  Depth & 
speed transducers will be available when I haul boat to replace with new. 
Waiting for weather to improve. All worked when removed. Make me an offer,  
I'll send pics off list if interested. Hint; it's all going cheap. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___

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Re: Stus-List Hull windows

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

My thought on this is, unless they have found a way for plexiglass ( I use this 
term loosely) to become one with the fiberglass. It will leak. Doug Mountjoy Sv 
Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/16/19  07:43  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: David Knecht 
 Subject: Stus-List Hull windows I was looking through 
Sail magazine this morning and noticed several boats with windows in the 
topside hull.  It seems to be a growing trend.  My general sense of windows is 
that at some point in their lifetime, they will begin leaking so windows that 
will be underwater periodically would concern me.  Are these windows mounted 
differently from those in cabin tops to give confidence in their structure or 
is this a feature to avoid altogether?  Dave
S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Only thing I can recommend is run a cable down toe out side corners of steps on 
each side of last. This will help prevent lines from getting tangles in the 
steps. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: "Steven A. Demore via CnC-List" 
 Date: 2/6/19  18:58  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Steven A. Demore"  Subject: 
Stus-List Mast Wedge Help I had my C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some 
work on it.  The boat came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some 
one day, just to get through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I 
asked the rigger what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn’t sure 
whether C came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the 
factory used to support the mast through the deck?Also, while I am at it. Any 
suggestions on anything I should be checking on the mast?  I’m replacing the 
wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of the running rigging, new blocks 
and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The boom has the internal blocks and 
wire for tensioning the foot of the main, but I don’t know whether that is 
accessible for maintenance or not. One last thing.  I was planning to mount 
steps (the triangular aluminum ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger 
recommended against it because of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody 
have thought on whether a series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the 
mast?Thanks,Steve___

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Re: Stus-List Some Sunday morning reading. Rogue Wave, the whole story.

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

WOW. always amazed at how much a boat can take. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah 
LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I have problems backing out of my slip into a very narrow fairway. I have a bow 
in Port tie. Backing out I have to pull forward past my slip, back into my slip 
using the port prop walk. Then pull out forward. Find it is much easier to just 
back in to begin with. Luckily I have a bunch of boat houses blocking most of 
the wind. DougDoug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,This from West Marine. Supply HosesTo carry the gas from the regulator 
to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose of the correct length. Note that 
while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, they have a 350 psi working 
pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger than they have to be. Each 
supply hose should run continuously from inside the propane tank enclosure to 
the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain a bunch of fittings 
together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a Vapor-Tight 
Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. Supply hoses 
connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel and connect 
to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah 
LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: T power via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/9/19  10:22  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: T power  Subject: Stus-List 
Propane hose 

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 




The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet. 




My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.




Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.







Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB


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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Ian, I am having a bag made from an old sail, also. The company is Sea Bags. 
seabags.com/?utm_source=bing_medium=cpc_campaign=BR_Search_Brand_BING_term=sea
 bags_content=MswmwIqC|pcrid|80058229234124|pkw|sea bags|pmt|be|pdv|mDoug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/24/18  19:50  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ian Matthew  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Richard,Where did you get them 
made. I have an old jib I would like to do that with. It’s a carbon kami are 
and it’s too far gone to even give it away   Thank youAnd a Merry Christmas 
from San Francisco to all C sailors. Ian MatthewC 29.1. “Siento el 
Viento”On Mon, Dec 24, 2018 at 12:59 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


 Merry Christmas to all the C families;; I bought a new Main sail last 
year, so this year all of my family (12 people in all) are getting a tote bag 
made from my old Mainsailthey look great, I almost hate to give them 
away...but it is Christmas...!!!



Richard

 




s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; River rising again...











Richard N. Bush Law Offices 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255


 


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- Ian Matthew"Siento el Viento"  C 29-1San Francisco BaySent from my iPad 
using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas to all y'all from the wet Pacific Northwest.  Doug Mountjoy Sv 
Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Here in Port Orchard, West of Seattle, we had an EF-2 tornado touch down 2 
miles from the yacht club. Reports from people at the club said winds were 
light with heavy rain. I was at the airport working. Just had power flicker. A 
few houses destroyed but no reported injuries. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah 
LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/21/18  21:07  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: 
Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast 

There were some severe storms reported on the West Coast (around 
Vancouver/Seattle). Not hurricanes, but sustained winds in the 60+ kt. The 
worst hit (at least in Canada) was Nanaimo and there was also heavy damage in 
White Rock, BC. The national news
was showing a pier destroyed by the storm - several sailboats broke off their 
moorings and banged against the pier until it broke (not a pretty picture). 
Also, a number of boats ended on the beach, one of them looking very much like 
a C (30?).
 
Not an event you want to experience any time, but even more so around Christmas.
 
I hope nobody we know suffered any serious damage.
 
Marek
Ottawa, ON
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Sailing Club with racers

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,At my club, we own buildings, and docks. Most members are 
powerboaters(170 boats). We have a committee (1 guy) that handles the racing. 
We set aside a portion of the annual budget for the racing. Members get work 
party time for helping out with the race committee boat. We also work closely 
with a paper only club. Hope this answers some of your questionsDoug Mountjoy 
Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/18/18  18:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List Sailing Club with 
racers 



Hello all CnCers;







I have some questions for those of you who belong to Sailing or Yacht Clubs, 
especially those with buildings and grounds, etc. Those whose clubs are 'paper 
only' can also chime in.









Blackbeard Sailing Club (BSC) has ~ 200 members and is exclusively a sailing 
club founded in ~ 1972. We own real estate, a clubhouse, and other buildings 
located near New Bern, NC on a creek that joins the Neuse River. Dues are 
modest (~$550/year) as are in-water slips (~$1000/year). We also have dry 
storage, dinghy storage and dock boxes available for modest fees. 









Most of the upkeep is done by member labor with occasional professionals used 
to replace entire dock sections, etc. which allows the above costs to be kept 
reasonable.









Most members are cruisers with maybe 30 members who actively race either in a 
OD San Juan 21 fleet, an Ensign fleet or in local PHRF races run by an active 
club (Neuse River Yacht Association) without facilities (a paper club). Our 
club (BSC) sponsors an OD regatta and a PHRF regatta or 2 annually and often 
helps out with local OD fleets and PHRF races with RC personnel, equipment, 
etc. All these fleets are relatively local and many club members are also 
members of these fleets/clubs. 









I am a member of several paper clubs which are exclusively devoted to 
racing--have even served as the Commodore of several of them. In these racing 
clubs, all the revenue and expenses are devoted to racing only--this keeps 
things simple and relatively low cost, especially without property concerns 
(taxes, upkeep, etc.).









Recently, BSC has been approached by an OD club with a proposal for them to 
associate with us (most of the OD are members of our club) to assist them with 
personnel, equipment, insurance, etc. for their weekday races (~ 10 boats). 
This fleet has about 16 race days (Thursdays) per year with several races per 
day. This is new 'ground' for our club and while we are keen to support local 
sailboat racing in all its forms, we have to be mindful of the majority of our 
members who do not race but certainly pay dues, slip fees, etc. Hence our 
dilemma--how do we support our racing minority in a club whose majority are 
cruisers or day sailors?









What I would like to know from those on the list (in broad terms) is how your 
club handles racing in your club, especially if the racers represent a relative 
minority of your otherwise cruising members:









Does the club supply RC and mark/safety boats and personnel for your racers?









Are the racers covered by the club's liability insurance while on the water 
racing?









Does the club charge a fee or fees for the support it provides?









Does the club impose any fees on the racers for the use of the club facilities 
such as the clubhouse for dinners, etc.?









Does your club charge additional fees to your racing members to cover racing 
expenses?









This issue is new to our club and some other local OD fleets and paper clubs 
may want a similar association. Thus we would like to get any agreement between 
us and a smaller fleet/club mostly correct the first time. Further, I am sure 
that this is not the first time this problem has come up in sailing clubs with 
racers as members, albeit in a minority.









Any suggestions on how your club handles these issues or others similar to 
these would be appreciated, including copies of by-laws, etc. that spell out 
how such issues are addressed.









Thanks in advance,









Charlie Nelson



Rear Commodore (to be in 2019!)



Blackbeard Sailing Club



New Bern, NC



1995 C 36 XL/kcb



Water Phantom











cenel...@aol.com









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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Always better to go with a known quantity. Why replace a good engine for an 
annoying oil leak. While the engine is out I would freshen up the fuel injector 
pump and injectors, give the heat exchanger a thorough going over, and any 
other hard to service items. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC 
wa.
 Original message From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/11/18  15:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice Do forget Bill sometimes new 
stuff can be a lemon. I think he said the engine was good except for an 
annoying small leak. On Tue, Dec 11, 2018 at 4:44 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:












I think you’re discounting all the work that goes into engine removal
and reinstall, it is a lot. Worse on some boats than other, of course.  I am
sure you realize we are talking about a lot more then pulling a 20 dollar bill
out of your pocket.   .  I think you (Joe) may have done a reinstall, and  maybe
some people like that work. I do it, but I don’t like it. 

Also, how long you are going to keep the boat. When you get to 4,000
Hours on an engine, it’s kind of like hitting 65 – you might have another 25
good years in you, or  . . . not. You’re never sure.

There is a great feeling of confidence  of leaving the dock with
a new engine.

Also, there is always a great secondary market for good, used
engines. I sold my used Perkins on Ebay with no problem, after installing a
nice, smooth running Kubota.

K sara, k sara.

 



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice





 

$20 seal vs. $10,000 engine?

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 8:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice





 

Wow.

If I had gone that far, with an engine with 3K hours, there is
no way that I wouldn’t put a new engine in there.

I have been down that road a couple times, and the time and
effort . . . The new breed of diesels are just so much nicer.

Too bad Cummins doesn’t make small diesels.

 

Just my opinion, of course. 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Don Marlin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2018 9:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Marlin
Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice



 









I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the engine
compartment. Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to pull. 





 





Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses,
injectors, valve adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000
hrs. Does not seem to have any issues.





 





The question I have for those who might know is how hard is
it to change crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? For
clarity I already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on the PTO
side. 





Of course there is a picture :-) 





 



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NB4JiY8mQb1Is6OXOlHCbHvwYA4hTriX/view?usp=sharing





 





There is a small leak on PTO side. I don't think it is
terrible but still a little leak.







Timing cover side seems to be leak free.





 





Thanks in advance.














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-- Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

From what I see in the picture, all you will need is a good quality torque 
wrench, and a Way to drive the seal into the seal plate. A good gasket scraper, 
some acetone or brake kleen to remove all oil residue from gasket surfaces. 
Locktight for sealing bolts. Some good quality gasket sealer for seal plate. 
Your local NAPA dealer can guide you in the right direction for sealer. The 
flywheel might be clocked so it will only fit one way. Good luck. Doug Mountjoy 
Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Don Marlin via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/10/18  18:25  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Don Marlin  Subject: Stus-List 
Westerbeke W33 Advice I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the 
engine compartment. Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to 
pull. Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses, injectors, 
valve adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000 hrs. Does not 
seem to have any issues.The question I have for those who might know is how 
hard is it to change crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? 
For clarity I already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on the 
PTO side. Of course there is a picture :-)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NB4JiY8mQb1Is6OXOlHCbHvwYA4hTriX/view?usp=sharing
There is a small leak on PTO side. I don't think it is terrible but still a 
little leak.

Timing cover side seems to be leak free.Thanks in advance.
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,Can't say much for the water, except that I'm storing some under my 
rudder quadrant. As for drill bits. I use cobalt bits. Little more expensive 
but last much longer. When drilling metal use slow speed and high pressure.  
Cutting oil also helps.Missed you last weekend in Port Orchard.  Doug. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/27/18  19:24  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List 
 Cc: Lee Youngblood  
Subject: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question Hi All,I 
have a sweet C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the stern of 
the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.  It’s not for 
drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull the cap for the 
vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.  OK I live in 
Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much rain comes 
through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the cockpit?  I only looked 
because my bilge pump was going off for about 20 sec. every 20 min.  Water was 
trickling down below the engine, and s couple years ago, I tossed the boat 
really well, and we flushed out the construction insulation crumbs under the 
icebox into the pots and pans under the stove - that was a mess and another 
story.  Anyway, does anyone else find water in the stern behind the helm 
position?  Have you looked recently?On another note, I thought I remembered a 
recommendation for a good quality drill bit set for drilling metal, round 
plastic storage, not the usual rusting metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make 
or link?    Thanks, Lee___Thanks 
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Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I want to wish everyone a safe and Happy Thanksgiving.  Doug Mountjoy Sv 
Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___

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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I use Delo 400 15-40. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
null___

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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I just put on a Garhauer traveler. Called Guedio at Garhauer and he figured out 
the size I needed, plus matched existing mount bolt holes, and how and where 
lines would exit. All said and done it was still cheaper than repairing my 25 
year old harken traveler. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: steve dewar via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/14/18  06:15  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: steve dewar  Subject: Stus-List 
C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler I am looking at replacing my  traveler system 
to a Garhauer 40-2sp system.  I presently have the sheet going from the 
traveler thru blocks to the mast, and back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s 
slow and isn’t great for fine adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that 
would nix my idea?ThanksSteveSent from my 
iPad___Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Re: Stus-List Charter Caribbean?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

We have a boat reserved for mid January in the bvi. We'll see.  Doug Mountjoy 
Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: David Blair via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/10/18  14:04  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Blair  Subject: Stus-List 
Charter Caribbean? Any listers with recent knowledge of the charter situation 
there?  Remembering the  hurricane damage in the BVI last year I am wondering 
whether Granada or St Vincent areas might provide more charter options.  Doing 
a little research for next March/April.  Any comment/feedback appreciated. Tx___

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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I soaked my winch parts in Brakekleen. Came clean after 10 minutes soak time. I 
keep a spray can onboard for any oily cleaning I need to do.


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/4/18  05:49  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Graham  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Winch grease 

Oh... that sounds good. The Pawlls are rusted so I need to replace all 8 
anyway. May buy the kit and use the cheaper stuff for yearly servicing. Took me 
almost 4 hours per winch to get the sticky hard varnish that had developed!! 
What a mess. They look and feel brand new now! 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 8:45 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:There is a very similar teflon based grease used 
for pool valves, and if you have a pool store near you it will be easier to 
find and probably cheaper.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/4/18  8:35 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Winch grease 


Good to have on the boat. This is what Peggie Hall recommends for lubricating 
the head pump, as well. 
   
A small tube is about $7 (CAD) at Home Hardware (special order). Readily 
available in any h/w store S of the border. 
   
Marek 
Ottawa, ON 
   


From: CnC-List 
On Behalf Of Chris Graham via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 05:58

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Chris Graham 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease 


   
I’ve never heard of it! Good price! 

Chris





Sent
 from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 5:53 AM, billbruce--- via CnC-List 
 wrote: 




I use superlube. A local supplier has it for about $15 Cdn full size cartridge. 
It's a clear synthetic grease and it is what the Anderson winch company uses at 
the factory.
 


   


Bill Bruce 

Landfall 38  




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___

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

They can if you have the number of your current filter. I don't remember what 
was installed on my 3qm30. Before I installed the remote filter. Access on the 
LF38 was horrible. 


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/3/18  10:26  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Wade Glew  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
engine oil filters and Car talk 
Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?WadeOh 
Boy C 33 MKII 
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. 


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List cleaning off rust

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

New bolts. If their that rusty replace them. Cheap insurance. 


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/3/18  09:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow  Subject: Stus-List 
cleaning off rust 
The nuts and bolts between the transmission and the shaft are quite rusty. How 
can I get the rust off?___

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Re: Stus-List painting with automotive paint.

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

A friend painted his boat with Imeron. Looks great after 7 years. Had to have 
is sprayed though. Most yards won't let you spray paint do to the overspray 
getting on neighbor boats. Doug





Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Chris, On my girlfriend's boat, she has the same engine. When starting we 
set the throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 then start cranking. Sometimes I'll engage 
the compression release to get the engine spinning a little faster (about 10 
secs) then release it. Another thing we do is flush the engine with fresh water 
before putting the boat to bed. Hope this helps. 
Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC. WA




Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/22/18  09:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Graham  Subject: 
Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure 
I have a quick question about the specifics of starting a Yanmar SB8 single 
cylinder engine. The previous owner also disconnected the kill switch and 
turned off the engine with the key so i want to reattach the cable this spring.
Is there a specific amount of throttle to set it at prior to turning it over? I 
think I remember by old Volvo-Penta had to be positioned at 3/4 open and then 
immediately dropped down to idle once the engine turned over. 
anything special I need to know? No real information out there and the old 
service manuals are pretty much impossible to locate at this point.
Thanks for your suggestionsChris___

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Re: Stus-List prpeller question

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Bill,If I remember correctly.  On my LF38 I had a 17x12 2 blade and replaced it 
with a 17x12 3 blade (over propped). A 17x11 3 blade would be about right. I 
had a 3qm30 yanmar. 
Doug MountjoySv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC 



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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Don to update your spread sheet. I am in the Port Orchard YC port orchard WA. 
Have had Rebecca Leah 1.5 yrs. Been sailing 11 years, and boating 30. Came from 
the dark side in 2006. 
Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Dehumidifier. Like this one from Eva-Dry. 
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/eva-dry-edv-2500-mid-size-dehumidifier-edv-2500
Getting ready to buy one myself the replace the big clunky one I currently 
have. 
Doug MountjoySv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/30/18  06:58  (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Stus-List 
Mold prevention 


Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this light 
patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a solution to 
prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to clean same. 













From my Android



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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I to feel you pain. I won't say have run aground, but I did not the Ballard 
railroad bridge when it was down just before I sold Pegasus my LF38. Not only 
do you have to watch but I guess the sky too. ;) After the pain and suffering 
and the boat is fixed, you have a great story for the next rendezvous. Doug


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/16/18  08:18  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: David Knecht 
 Subject: Stus-List Catharsis message 
It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression.  
This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists.  Or maybe you 
will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a 
serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to 
start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and 
the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull us off 
the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef 
and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip 
of the rudder up through the hull.    The bottom of the wing keel is also 
chewed up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is 
now forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder 
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was 
hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an 
appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at 
sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.
I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of all 
the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that 
order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with 
me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was blowing 15+ 
and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a 
straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast.  
With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class 
and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to 
head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had 
just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It 
turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East 
of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or 
recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the 
finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we 
jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I 
looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards 
inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would 
have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race 
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative 
to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major 
factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would 
have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following 
the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in 
familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were 
not following anyone after the turn.  
If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this, I 
am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me concerned 
about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in general.   
In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every week, and it 
has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware of where we 
are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew.  This was 
an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  Also in terms of 
the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the area and seen us 
and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the next high tide, I 
have no idea what we would have done.  I 

Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Glad to see the plug for Port Townsend Rigging. They are currently redoing my 
standing rigging, and goose neck. I also added a second sheave for another main 
halyard that will also work with a trisail. Dan and Lisa along with the rest of 
the staff are very knowledgeable. I am spending a month in Port Townsend 
working on Rebecca Leah's mast. Any question I have they take time to explain 
why something is done this way or that. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/14/18  15:30  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: 
Stus-List Lazy Jacks 

Just finished installing a lazy jack system from
  Port Townsend Rigging on Grace, our 1983 C 35-3.  These lazy
  jacks are stowable at the mast so that the mainsail cover doesn't
  need to be modified.  The kit was well put together.  Synthetic
  line for the cradles, nice Selden cheek blocks.  An hour up the
  mast to install the cheek blocks and two flag halyards, another
  half an hour or so to install the boom eye straps, cleats and jam
  cleat and it was done.  The first use was great, dropped the main
  and it all flaked nicely in to the cradle.  I am pleased with the
  cost, quality and ease of installation.

  

  Neil Schiller

  1983 C 35-3, #028

  "Grace"

  Whitehall, Michigan

  WLYC


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Stus-List Mast paint

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I am getting to repaint the mast on my 1988 LF39. Does anyone on here have a 
clue what paint C uses on their spars? The local chandlery suggested Interlux 
Brightside, not knowing what is currently on there. Any help would be 
appreciated. Thanks in advanceDoug


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List 455 minutes at 25 amps...

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

If I remember my electrical schooling. (It's been a looong time) 455 ÷ 60 × 25 
= 189.5 amp hours. Hours × amps = amp hours. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/12/18  15:13  (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Stus-List 455 
minutes at 25 amps... 


I'm still stuck in the old school amp hours capacity. And my new batteries are 
telling me 455 minutes at 25 amps. Could someone better at this basic concept 
help me equate this information to amp hour capacity?  Rey to set my amp/volt 
meter. 






Thanks in advance.  






Get Outlook for Android



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Re: Stus-List where to find a 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch hose adaptor

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Wrap the 3/4 outlet with good 3m electrical tape til larger hose will just 
slide on. then put a hose clamp on.


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/11/18  14:16  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank  Subject: Stus-List 
where to find a 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch hose adaptor 

Replacing the small automatic electric bilge pump - selected one with a 3/4 
inch output, but old one had 1 1/8 inch.  Can’t find a hose adaptor to make the 
change so I can keep using the old discharge hose. Suggestions welcome.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Not going to make it this year. Maybe next year. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/18  09:37  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List 
 Cc: Lee Youngblood  
Subject: Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous 
August 10, 11, 12th  It’s on my calendar - hope I can make it. . .


> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:06 23AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find 
> anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the 
> dates worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals.
> 
> Chris
> 1980 C 30MK1
> FCYC
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List VHB tape adhesion

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Mark, When I did my windows I didn't use a primer, just stuck the tape 
(VHB4991) straight on the rough epoxy. You might try roughing up thr primer and 
wipe with copious amounts of acetone. One thing I learned is put the windows in 
when they are cool. The plexiglass expands in sunlight by quite a bit. When it 
cools over time it will pull loose from the 795  causing leaks. Also bevel the 
edge towards the hull, and slightly round the outer edge. I also rough up the 
contact area of the plexi.Good luck


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/6/18  13:38  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge  Subject: 
Stus-List VHB tape adhesion 

Hi All,



I'm having the fixed windows replaced on my C 37/40+. I had
fiberglass work done to clean up the window opening on the deck
before putting the new windows on.

I bought the windows from South Shore and am having them installed
with 3M VHB tape, then Dow 795 caulking.

The VHS tape adheres great to the windows, but not so well to the
deck. There is 2 part epoxy primer on the window openings and it has
been properly cleaned. A test area has been sanded and the tape
doesn't appear to stick there much better. There is plenty of heat
here in the North Carolina, so that is not the problem.



Has anyone else had this issue of the tape not sticking well to the
deck and possibly have suggestions that I can pass to the yard?



Thanks,

Mark Baldridge

~~_/)

'89 C 37/40+ "The Edge"

Surf City, NC

  
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Re: Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38.

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

John,What is the diameter of the holes in your deck? I am replacing all of my 
deck fills using the Seadog line on my LF39. 3 fuel, 2 water, and 2 waste.  
http://www.sea-dog.com/search?utf8=✓_string=351321-1+=0=0

Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA 


 Original message From: John via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/6/18  08:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38. 
Almost at the end of my total refit. I am looking for stainless deck fills.See 
pictures below like the one on the left of the picture. 

The deck fills have a 3-3/4 inch flange with a 1-1/2 inch hose pipe. We need 3 
water, 1 Diesel, and 1 waste.


Thanks everyone. 




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Re: Stus-List Steaming light guard

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I thought the radar some was put there to protect the steaming light. Lol. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/28/18  16:56  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright  Subject: Stus-List 
Steaming light guard 
Has anyone come up with a good design for a guard to protect your steaming 
light from damage caused by flailing halyards and headsails in strong winds.  I 
know Forespar makes one 
https://www.forespar.com/products/sail-light-guard.shtml but I am not sure that 
that design will do the job as it does not offer a lot of protection at the top 
of the light. ThanksRod StrightC 99  




Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Eric,I just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a year embossed 
on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was 94. As long as the pressure is 
in the green, and weight is above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this 
is how we check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small kitchen scale. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/27/18  08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank  Subject: Stus-List 
checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings 

Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a 
date on them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is it 
sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the green? A 
related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered 
the splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier line that is 
secured to a deck cleat was in terrible condition.  It would likely have broken 
had we used it. That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly is 
now - just passing this along to the group.  Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so 
it's likely the plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would it 
satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice the plastic line with 
the heavier line at the end? For this year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, 
although the Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in good 
condition.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

The water witch works in all types of water. Plus it will not work in oil or 
fuel. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/22/18  11:02  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump 


Does anyone have any experience with Water Witch in fresh water (no salt)? I 
think it needs some electrolyte in order to work.
 
Marek
 
Sent from 
Mail for Windows 10
 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 13:20

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Hoyt, Mike

Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

 
A water Witch switch does not need as high a water level to run your pump as a 
traditional float switch.  Is also not mechanical so less prone to failure.  We 
have this switch mated to a diaphragm pump and this
 leaves very little water in the bilge as the diaphragm pump pickup is very low.
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Stus-List Ray marine autopilot

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I need help. My Ray marine X30 autopilot has crapped out on me. Here is the 
historyLast cruise I noticed the heading was way off. I tried swinging the 
compass to no avail. Installed a new compass today. Now when I push the auto 
button I get "NO COMP". I also cannot access the dealer cal screen. I have 
power to the coarse computer, all fuses are good. I did splice in the new 
compass (used from ebay) using a small terminal block. Is there a was to test 
the compass?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I had a custom matters pad (came with my new matress), and found the custom 
sheets didn't work well on my LF38.  I used a king fitted sheet folded and 
tucked under matters, and a queen flat sheet for top tucked under as far as 
possible. Used full size blankets. 



Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/31/18  18:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daniel Sheer  Subject: Stus-List 
v berth sheets and mattress pads 

Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco






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Stus-List LF39 mast

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Does anyone know it the rectangular plate under the mast of the LF39 is 
attached to the mast or does the mast just sit on it? Doesn't look like the 
plate will clear mast hole in deck. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Paul, a friend had a stainless one made for his Pretorian (old one was stolen). 
I think he used 3/16 or 1/4 inch stainless plate, made a pattern from 1/4 
plywood. Came out a work of art. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/29/18  11:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge  Subject: Stus-List 38 
Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked 
Hi,
I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast stemhead/bow 
roller?    For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a triangular cast 
plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers along with the 
connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in mine, and so I’m 
looking to replace it with something more rugged and more functional.   



-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Lloyd enjoy your cruising. From what I've seen so far of LF39 I love it. Look 
forward to talking to you. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  15:01  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Doug,Am presently in The Bahamas returning to the states early July.Happy to 
call you then.  The 39 is wonderful and happy you have one.Have so enjoyed mine.
Lloyd Lippe Finesse LF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 5:50 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thanks Lloyd, looks to be what I need to do.I bought this boat a year ago and 
am still figuring it out. I would love to compare notes and pick your brain 
about the LF39. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  14:26  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Doug,On mine, just remove the 4 base screws to the floor. Then it appears that 
you will need to remove the glass rack and everything forward of the mast.You 
should then be able to then slide the table aft.It has been about 7 years since 
I did all this so am thinking that is what I did.  I recall raising the leafs 
and having to crawl under to do most of the disassembly, really not hard. Will 
be easier if you have some help.I think I have seen 2 different table 
arrangements on the 39, so hopefully we have the same layout and my comments 
apply.Hope all works out.
Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 5:06 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Lloyd,  Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's 
looking like. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  13:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It 
really is not all that hard.
Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the 
table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with 
slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Thanks Lloyd, looks to be what I need to do.I bought this boat a year ago and 
am still figuring it out. I would love to compare notes and pick your brain 
about the LF39. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  14:26  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Doug,On mine, just remove the 4 base screws to the floor. Then it appears that 
you will need to remove the glass rack and everything forward of the mast.You 
should then be able to then slide the table aft.It has been about 7 years since 
I did all this so am thinking that is what I did.  I recall raising the leafs 
and having to crawl under to do most of the disassembly, really not hard. Will 
be easier if you have some help.I think I have seen 2 different table 
arrangements on the 39, so hopefully we have the same layout and my comments 
apply.Hope all works out.
Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 5:06 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Lloyd,  Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's 
looking like. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  13:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It 
really is not all that hard.
Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the 
table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with 
slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Lloyd,  Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's 
looking like. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: LKL via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/28/18  13:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 
mast removal 
Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It 
really is not all that hard.
Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39

Sent from my iPad
On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the 
table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with 
slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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Stus-List LF39 mast removal

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the 
table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with 
slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Bill, my old 3qm30 had 2 thermostats. My understanding between the raw water 
cooled and fresh water cooled is the opening temperature of the thermostats. 
This was from my local Yanmar dealer. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: William Walker via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/27/18  06:27  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat 
on 3QM30H 
Josh,

  I have a drawing from yanmar manual, not quite same as yours.   My thermostat 
cover has bolt pattern different..fore and aft and side to side..I am always 
confused by "raw  water, fresh water" thing...I draw lake water in and through 
engine and out...no antifreeze or heat exchange..just direct through and out.

Bill.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:



Is your engine fresh water or raw water cooled.  By the model number I'm 
guessing that it is raw water cooled.  I don't have the manuals for the QM 
series but believe that they are the predecessor to the HM and GM.  As such 
many of the parts are interchangeable and much of the design is the same.  In 
my parts diagrams it shows 2 thermostats but only on the raw later cooled 
versions of the HM/GM.  I'll send you a picture off list.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
On Sun, May 27, 2018, 8:35 AM William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Good morning,

   Yesterday I removed the thermostat cover on top of the exhaust manifold to  
replace the thermostat which I suspected was bad.  I have a yanmar service 
manual which has detailed drawings of the exhaust manifold on this sea water 
cooled engine.  To my surprise when I removed the cover there were TWO 
thermostats installed for and aft on starboard side of the exhaust manifold 
ports.  The Yanmar service manual shows only ONE, in the forward port.

Since I only had one new thermostat I installed it in the forward port on 
manifold, cleaned up the other from corrosion and put it back where it was.  
The second port is machined to accept a thermostat.

If you have a yanmar service manual, pictures of this on page 7-A-2 showing one 
thermostat.

Since these two ports are connected internally and water can flow through both 
I am thinking that this is a safety factor.  If one fails the other still may 
open and allow cooling water to engine.

Any thoughts if this second thermostats belongs there?  I have been running 
this engine with it in place for 7 years and I suspect prior owner did as well 
for a time.

Bill Walker

Evening Star 

CnC 36

Pentwater, Mi 
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

If bolts are coming loose. I would drill heads for safety wire. Install with 
Red lock tight and safety wire so the wire gets tighter when bolts loosen. I 
keep a can of 0.032 dua stainless safety wire on board comes in handy for all 
sorts of projects. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/23/18  16:48  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing 
Jim’s boat has a Westerbeke 35D engine (3 cyl, 35HP) and Borg Warner BW7 
transmission, with the usual V drive arrangement of a LF38. Engine and 
transmission were both newly installed in 2010. Had 140 hours on engine when 
the boat was purchased in 2015. About 200 hours on it now, as Jim has said. 
Seal on the hydraulic pump in the Borg Warner transmission failed during the 
delivery from Charleston to Washington, NC in 2015 (seal had dried out during a 
couple of years when the engine only accumulated 4 hours of use by the PO, 
apparently). So the transmission was rebuilt at that time. There is a “damper” 
between the engine flywheel and the input shaft of the transmission. According 
to the illustration in the parts book, it looks sort of like the spring loaded 
pressure plate in a clutch arrangement. But it seems pretty unlikely that the 
damper would have failed with only 200 hours on the engine. The Walter v drive 
hasn’t got much space under it for the coupling, so Jim’s boat has a relatively 
small diameter coupling with 3 bolts in it.  As Jim has said, this is the 3rd 
time in two years that the bolts have sheared off. As he  has said, the 
feathering prop has been rebuilt, the shaft checked for straightness, bolts 
replaced (though there is a question whether the latest set is grade 5 or grade 
8), engine aligned repeatedly(and BTW the motor mounts are new), etc., etc., 
etc. Jim (and everyone else aware of the problem) is getting really frustrated. 
Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frank 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing Jim, I have a 79 38LF, serial 
number 001.  I have had a similar problem.There were a combination of things 
that caused it.First, the engine was never bedded in the boat properly.  I had 
to cut the engine mounts and rebuild them so the engine could be aligned with 
the prop shaft.Second, I had the Paragon SAOV transmission and V-drive rebuilt. 
 Most of the internal components of both units were replaced.  The prior owner 
installed a used SAOD and connected the v-drive to it. (Making it a SAOV)But, 
most important, have you replaced the vibration damper connected to the output 
shaft of the engine?  It looks like a clutch plate but without the clutch 
material.  It is between the engine and the transmission.Mine looked good but 
upon a thorough inspection it was found to be trash!My problem turned out to be 
a combination of the above, several “boat yards” aligned the prop with the 
v-drive but in actuality, there was a significant amount of difference between 
the two causing the bolts on the coupling to loosen.There was enough play in 
the v-drive output for it to look good. I would suspect that your vibration 
damper is not doing it’s job. Frank Frank Noragon
S/V: Cool Change
C 38LF, s/n: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon From: detroito91 via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 
11:48 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Jim Schwartz Cc: detroito91 Subject: 
Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38. 
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of 
power.Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.The westerbeak engine 
runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and checked after the second  
time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed 
by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. 
Allignment done each time and found okay.I am looking for advice,  suggestions, 
similar situations and corrections. HELPLosing confidence in boat.ThanksJim 
schwartz SEA YA I 38 LF Washington nc 
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Re: Stus-List Reading lines

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the info on my reading lines. Reefing  lines. Stupid spell 
check. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 5/21/18  15:32  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Reading lines 
The sail area on your LF39 is actually slightly less than the sail area on my 
38-2 – and your main is smaller than mine because of the center cockpit. FWIW, 
all of my reefing lines are 3/8” diameter – Sta-Set if I recall correctly. Rick 
BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of svrebeccaleah via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2018 6:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccaleah <svrebeccal...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Reading lines Looking for advice. I need to replace the main 
reefing lines on my LF39. Currently I have for #1 reef pt is a 9/16 line and #2 
&3 are 1/2 line, not sure of line type. Want something thinner and lighter. I 
don't race, just go cruising. Plan on a lot of offshore in near future. What 
are your expert opinions?  Doug Mountjoy POYC  Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Stus-List Reading lines

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Looking for advice. I need to replace the main reefing lines on my LF39. 
Currently I have for #1 reef pt is a 9/16 line and #2 &3 are 1/2 line, not sure 
of line type. Want something thinner and lighter. I don't race, just go 
cruising. Plan on a lot of offshore in near future. What are your expert 
opinions? 
Doug Mountjoy POYC  Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I put one on my LF39 DUE to the center cockpit. It has a line at the mast that 
allows me to open and close it. Worth every penny. Mine is from Doyle. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/16/18  12:09  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Stus-List 
Anyone Have A Stack Pack? 
Listers,
Has anyone installed a Stack Pack 
(http://www.doylesails.com/stackpack/index.html) or similar? Pros? Cons? 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








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Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Thanks for the offer but all I need is the foil screws. I hope. Pulling my mast 
in July. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 5/15/18  18:43  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts 



Screws.  I should have asked sooner – as I said, I already cut up and 
recycled the foils.  I did not think to remove the screws first (which were 
secured with red Loctite).  Sorry.
 
With the exception of the foil pieces, I do have the other various 
screws.  Does that help?


 

From: svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 7:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svrebeccaleah 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler 
parts
 

Matt, were your foils aka torque tube connections secures with rivets or 
screws? I need 6 screws for my old harken furler. 
 
 
 
 

Doug Mountjoy 
Rebecca Leah 
LF39 
POYC, WA.
 
 
 

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Date: 5/15/18 10:42 (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> 
Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts 
 Listers:

    Due to the inability 
to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading 
from a Harken original 
roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called 
that), Unit 2, to the 
newer Harken model.  The new one is nearly finished, 
and I cut 
up/recycled the old foils.  Before I recycle the rest of the old 
parts, 
does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque 

tube)?  Please advise if you do.  Thanks.

Matt 
Wolford
C 42 Custom 



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supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Matt, were your foils aka torque tube connections secures with rivets or 
screws? I need 6 screws for my old harken furler. 



Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 5/15/18  10:42  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: 
Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts 
Listers:

    Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading 
from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called 
that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model.  The new one is nearly finished, 
and I cut up/recycled the old foils.  Before I recycle the rest of the old 
parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque 
tube)?  Please advise if you do.  Thanks.

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 


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Stus-List Barient winch parts

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

In cleaning and lubing my barient winches I found one with the self tailer 
tension screws broken. Does any one know where the might be found? I need 
minimum 2 screws and 2 springs for a 21ST. I haven't checked to see if they are 
the same size on all of my winches. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List Gold Stripe...

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Looks good. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 5/13/18  10:34  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Gold Stripe... 
Highly recommend this.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchcal-Premium-Striping-Metallic/dp/B0010AZRMU
See it applied here:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 9:56 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:







Replacing the gold stripe on hull beneath toerail.   Any suggestions for a 
vendor for  a quality product?



Thanks in advance.







David F. Risch
Gulf
Stream
Associates,
LLC



(401) 419-4650 












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Re: Stus-List How do you tow your Dinghy and bring it aboard

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,Having towed, and hauled a dinghy all over the Pacific NW. I can say 
that davits are the easiest. I use the spin halyard  for hoisting on deck for 
long passages.  For short towing I tow (without the motor) the dinghy pulled up 
close with the bow as far up on the mothership transom as possible. Least 
amount of Dinghy in water as possible. I use a stern cleat. Towing with motor 
attached I tow with a long line so the dinghy is just falling off front side of 
mothership wake. Hope I explained this right. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club, WA.


 Original message From: Dan via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/11/18  09:18  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan  Subject: Stus-List How do 
you tow your Dinghy and bring it aboard 
Hi All,
We JUST bought our first dinghy and it's time to figure out how to have it 
interact with the mothership...

No Davits...

We have a 1986 C (with the ridiculously long reversed transom)... There is 
no obvious towing fitting around the transom other than a couple of rings that 
the previous owner added but both are only held on by a couple of screws. How 
do people typically tow their dinghies? - from the aft Cleats?

IS it prudent to attempt to raise the dinghy form the water by way of the mast 
swung out abeam with a couple shackles (like a crane) for deck storage?

Thanks guys!

Dan
Breakaweigh
1986 C
Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Edd, I would go with nothing less than 750 cca, space permitting.  The more the 
better. The bigger  battery will last longer. I am using a group 27 to start my 
Yanmar 4jhe44. I took out a 20 year old group 31 that was still working. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/30/18  13:23  (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: 
Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine 
Listers,
What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to warm 
up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine? 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

 Pegasus my old 38LF had been converted to fresh water cooling. Dont remember 
who made the heat exchanger. It used the cam driven vane pump (old raw water 
pump) as the recirculating pump. Replaced the impeller once in 10 years of 
ownership. Yes access did suck. Never had an issue of that pump failing. Only 
overheating issues I had was when the heat exchanger tubes became clogged. My 
39LF has the engine installed the right way (no vdrive) and good access to 
everything except the dripless shaft packing. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/30/18  11:39  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM 
Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on. Low and 
behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he mentioned 
that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one but two 
raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a fresh water 
conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion tank/heat 
exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of the two 
coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the engine) 
and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year. Has anyone 
ever heard of C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the factory (Barry 
Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an owner conversion?  
My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water pump will never hold 
up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will always burn up  
impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one point Yanmar made a 
fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very unlikely there would be 
any availability considering the motor hasn’t been built since 1983.This engine 
is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a V-Drive, making 
access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.Right now, I’m at a 
crossroads which involves:Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the 
job for the existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and 
bought a new stainless mixing elbowFinding the needed parts to do a Yanmar 
factory Fresh water conversionKeep the boat out of the water this year and save 
up to re-power. Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be 
the best way to spend money.Any suggestions would be welcome..Chuck 
GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA  ___

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Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I haven't heard of these but after a quick search they look like they would 
work great. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/28/18  05:19  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey  Subject: Stus-List 
SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE 
HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my salon 
back together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


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Re: Stus-List water heater

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I installed an Isotherm in Pegasus and was very happy with it for 10 years I 
had the boat. Have an old Raritan in Rebecca Leah and not too impressed. From a 
live aboard stand point. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/2/18  11:04  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: 
Stus-List water heater 



I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom 
on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, 
Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very 
similar). I am looking
 for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant (and potentially AC, but 
this is secondary).
 
Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
 
thanks
 
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


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Re: Stus-List Battery power

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Fred, will the link 2000 work on a Prosine 2.5 inverter/charger? 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/12/18  12:39  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Battery power 
If you don’t have a Xantrex charger/inverter, I’d suggest the Xantrex LinkPRO 
instead of the Link 2000:
http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linkpro-battery-monitor.aspx
It’s very reasonably priced (around $250.00 for the two-bank monitor), and made 
for standalone operation.
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Feb 12, 2018, at 2:23 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:
David,
While there are calculations you can use, rate of battery discharge is also 
affected by battery age and temperature. 
And, since I’m really, really good at spending other people’s money, I’d 
suggest installing a Battery Monitoring System: 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289954%7C2289950=1130644
  
I have a similar system on the Enterprise — A Heart Interface Link 2000. See 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Heart-Interface-Link-2000-Complete/132499499047?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dfe0fb3de9f6c425585c79ccae997251d%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D302615330618%26itm%3D132499499047&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
 Properly installed and programed, you can see how much time you have left on 
your house bank with the draw you are using at any given time. 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
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Re: Stus-List Portable generator question

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I use a Honda 2000i companion (has 30 amp plug) as a backup power source. At 
least until I get my solar up and running. The Honda is quiet and wind disturb 
neighbors in anchorage. I would Put the honda on the bow and not hear it in the 
cockpit. The 2000 will also power a hot water heater, or 1500 watt space 
heater. A friend uses a Honda 2000 at night to keep his wife's turtle warm on 
their Irwin 52. Don't ask. 

Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC 



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Damian Greene via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/12/18  09:54  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Damian Greene  Subject: 
Stus-List Portable generator question 
A question for your collective wisdom:
I am scoping out upgrading my stock 55A alternator to a 100A Balmar, and 
related upgrades to the controls. I had a very productive discussion with Rod 
Collins at Compass Marine (mainesail), and we worked out the details. 
Unfortunately he's booked out through the spring, so this job will wait until 
next winter.
So thinking then about keeping the batteries charged, and the fridge running on 
our long summer cruise - where we may go for weeks without access to shore 
power, I got wondering about using a portable generator to charge the batteries 
- as an alternative to many hours of running the diesel. There are a couple of 
Hondas that might do the trick 2000 Watt, weighing 47#, 1000 Watt weighing 29#.
Have any of you tried this? What could (would) go wrong if I plugged this 
generator into my inverter, to charge the batteries?
Regards,
Damian
1986 Sabre 38 FreefallPreviously 1984 C 34 GhostBass Harbor, Maine___

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Stus-List Batteries

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

When I bought Rebecca Leah in June I knew she needed new batteries, 6 group 31 
agm's. The PO told me that the batteries were the same as when he bought her in 
2003. Knowing I had to pull up the floor boards to easily access them I waited. 
Today I pulled out the old ones. They were west marine installed in 3/98, at 
least that was what was written on top. 2 had failed when I bought her. The 
others were dying fast. I found new Lifelines from 
wholesalebatteriesdirect.comGroup 31 125 amp hour for less than $400 ea free 
shipping an no taxes. I bought 6 group 27 deep cycle for $306 ea. 




Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ window replacement

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

The only thing can add (after doing 10 windows) is that the surface need to be 
flat and smooth, install and seal out of direct sunlight, minimum 3/16 gap for 
sealing, slight bevel on both sides of plexi ( more on tape side) outside just 
enough to remove sharp edge, and when sealing push sealant with nozzle. Then 
smooth in one stroke for best finish. Also let them know they get one shot at 
the windows. Once the plexi touches the tape it is STUCK!! I put the tape in 
cut out  even with inside edge of opening. Use a spacer on bottom edge to 
position plexi in opening. Good luck. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/9/18  16:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge  Subject: 
Stus-List C 37+ window replacement 
Hi All,

I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my 
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on 
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I 
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around. 
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new 
upholstery for the interior.

So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795 
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to 
the folks doing the work.

Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what 
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work 
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC



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Re: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Try marinesan.com, they are the local marine sanitation dealer here in Seattle. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/5/18  18:47  (GMT-08:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Bruce Whitmore  Subject: 
Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings? 
Hello all,
I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full, and 
the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the o-rings on 
all 5 caps>  He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every exterior nut, bolt 
and screw, but that's another story.  Ugh...
Here's some links to a couple photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7rcwh7wfwm9nne/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%203.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj310g6xy9nozh1/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%202.jpg?dl=0

Anyone know a source where I can find these caps and their o-rings?
Thank you! Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List insurance

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I am with Red Sield $850 for $60k. This is also live aboard, think my 
deductible is $1000. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39POYC, WA



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/3/18  12:50  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace ahycrace  Subject: 
Stus-List insurance 
Hello all               Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it 
went up 238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was 
nothing on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got 
raised as well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say 4% or 
so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a 
automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must 
stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, 
might have to start shopping, any feedback?
                                                             Gary K  "Liberty"  
1976  38'  MKll___

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