Stus-List Yanmar 2gm starter problem

[tom via CnC-List]

Hello all,
So my aftermarket starter died last season and I recently pulled it out
looking to compare for fit to a replacement. The local marina looking for
$275 prompted more searching and many seem available for @ $100 or less w 1
year warranty. I believe Yanmar replacement is over $400, so there is the
quality/price issue if anyone can chime in.
However, I now see as a bigger problem. The starter shows a large piece of
the shield for the pinion gear and shaft missing. This part of the shield
section supports the shaft end and that is completely missing...so no
support of the pinion gear shaft. Although I hadn't looked closely at it
when I removed it, I would have noticed loose pieces.  So if this has
broken off inside the bell housing, pieces may still be there. I am
thinking that I must remove the trans for access to clear any remnants. Any
other ideas? Also, any thoughts about why this happened?
Thanks much,
Tom Oryniak
Carry On
33-1 Raritan Bay


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Re: Stus-List vinyl pinstripe?

[tom via CnC-List]

I found that 9 mm (3/8") OROFOL tape fit quite well.
Quite a selection of colors if you want to venture outside the original
gold.
They may also be noted as OROCAL as the 2 companies merged a few years back.
We used 9 mm purple 2 years ago and no problems so far.
One suggestion: stretch long sections of 3M outdoor masking tape along an
edge of the cove...either top or bottom as a guide.
Match the pin stripe to the masking tape edge to avoid any wave or flutter
that will appear if you apply free handed.

Tom Oryniak
Carry On
33-1
Raritan Bay, NJ

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 8:40 PM, T Smyth via CnC-List  wrote:

> The stripe along the upper part of the hull on my 1974 30’ MKI has
> disappeared over time .
> I am considering replacing it with a high-quality vinyl pinstripe which
> will fit in the recessed portions of the former stripe location.
>
> Has anyone tried this and any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
> Tom
> Shangri-La 30
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Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers

[tom via CnC-List]

I don't know if this has been brought up before, but please check if you
have Kidde with plastic handles. These have all been recalled and you can
get replacements for free.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/inmar-adx-files/N130284/US_Plastic+Handle+Product+ID+Guide.pdf

Tom Oryniak
Carry On 33-1
Raritan Bay Nj



On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 12:25 PM, mark woehnker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Woehnker
>
> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018, 12:14 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_
>> Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf
>>
>> I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance tag.
>> Six of one...
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers, Al
>>
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Raycor Filters

[tom via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh,
I would see the condition of the 200Fg after the removal of the drain and
fittings.
It may be better to replace the entire unit. I saw for sale @ $120.
Hoping to hear about using the newer spin on types as I have heard they are
messy to change.
BTW...some handy mods on your video.
Tom

On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 10:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm a big fan of the 200FG.  I've completely rebuilt mine with all new
> o-rings and I have plenty of the cost effective cartridges.  Despite being
> discontinued the cartridges are still extremely available.  I modified mine
> with a vacuum gauge and a vent/bleed valve.  As for your stuck drain valve,
> mine is plastic and has never gotten stuck...though I don't use it very
> often.  You might try McMaster-Carr for a replacement fitting.  Straight
> thread not tapered.  I can help if you need.  I may have a metal drain
> valve laying around too.  If you think you might want it, let me know.
>
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 9:36 PM tom via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello Everybody,
>>
>> I have an old Raycor 200FG that takes replacement cartridges from the top
>> on my Yanmar 2 GMF.
>>
>> The bottom clean out valve is frozen and the hose fittings need attention.
>>
>> This model has been replaced with newer screw on from the bottom styles.
>>
>> Wondering what experiences owners have had comparing the old and new. Are
>> these newer styles easier/better than the old drop in filter that I have or
>> should I just repair the old?
>>
>> Thanks much,
>>
>> Tom Oryniak
>>
>> "Carry On"
>>
>> 33-1
>>
>> Raritan Bay, NJ
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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>
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Stus-List Raycor Filters

[tom via CnC-List]

Hello Everybody,

I have an old Raycor 200FG that takes replacement cartridges from the top
on my Yanmar 2 GMF.

The bottom clean out valve is frozen and the hose fittings need attention.

This model has been replaced with newer screw on from the bottom styles.

Wondering what experiences owners have had comparing the old and new. Are
these newer styles easier/better than the old drop in filter that I have or
should I just repair the old?

Thanks much,

Tom Oryniak

"Carry On"

33-1

Raritan Bay, NJ
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar sea water pump replace

[tom via CnC-List]

Josh,
At that price, it would be tough to refuse. I will rebuild and keep the old
as a spare or for a quicker way to change impellers, but I need to get
something in there now as this one is completely apart.
Poseidon is overseas...Greece?
Tom Oryniak
33-1 Carry On
Raritan Bay NJ

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 11:13 AM, tom via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Having a need to replace the sea water pump in my early model  2GM20FV
> (Engine #05410) the sticker shock of $500 has me thinking rebuild. After
> taking it apart (another story) and itemizing parts needed I found there is
> a Johnson pump that was used on later models and is half the cost. My
> engine does not have the YEU designation (European assembled model) that
> this pump was made for.
> I am  wondering if the newer pump will match the mounting dimensions of my
> 2gm20FV. Has anyone replaced the early model sea water pumps with the newer
> Johnson and can tell me what difficulties if any to expect?
> Thanks much,
> Tom Oryniak
> 33-1, Carry On
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sea Water pump - 2gm20f

[tom via CnC-List]

Thanks Kelly, I went local as I need it quickly and compared it to the old.
As you mentioned, it looks to fit right in there. The hose intake and
outlet are slightly different but I believe there's enough room.
One point the parts guy mentioned was that it would need a different belt.
Do you recall anything about that? The pulley is the same size.
Tom

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 12:28 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> check with *Bay shore marine in Annapolis.  *
>
>
> I bought the newer version recently and it was "plug & play" install.
>
> This newer pump uses an "O" ring, not a gasket.
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> '91 C 30MKII
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
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Stus-List Yanmar sea water pump replace

[tom via CnC-List]

Having a need to replace the sea water pump in my early model  2GM20FV
(Engine #05410) the sticker shock of $500 has me thinking rebuild. After
taking it apart (another story) and itemizing parts needed I found there is
a Johnson pump that was used on later models and is half the cost. My
engine does not have the YEU designation (European assembled model) that
this pump was made for.
I am  wondering if the newer pump will match the mounting dimensions of my
2gm20FV. Has anyone replaced the early model sea water pumps with the newer
Johnson and can tell me what difficulties if any to expect?
Thanks much,
Tom Oryniak
33-1, Carry On
Raritan Bay NJ
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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[tom via CnC-List]

Dave & Antoine,
What it seems like is that there should be some upward angle but better at
the mast fitting.
So it seems that I'm best checking at the mast to see if there is an angle
at the fitting or not. My spreaders are pictured in the link below trying
to show the bend in them.
Would hammering them back to shape cause damage or is this a pro job only?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dx8rxhya2dyummc/AACODZtg41WU01YI-AxHtfAIa?dl=0

Thanks,
Tom


On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 5:49 PM, David Kaseler <kasel...@q.com> wrote:

> Tom.
> I'm no rigger but I too have a C 33-1. Also, ours is not the original
> mast so things are different and I do suggest you discuss this issue with a
> professional rigger. I believe the spreader should be angled up as you see
> on yours. The trick is to direct the load evenly from the shroud so there
> is no tendency for the spreader tip to move up or down or for it to buckle
> under load, and there is a lot of load. The reason the end needs to angled
> up is because the angle of the shroud above the spreader is smaller than
> that below the spreader.
> Dave.
> SLY C 33-1
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 15, 2017, at 11:30 AM, tom via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
>
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and
> wiring replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles
> and I have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is
> under consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question.
> Showing a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat
> lessened by tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending
> and slight malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the
> mast fitting. What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10
> degrees or so) at the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast
> fitting that would give the spreaders an upward bias.
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> *Carry On* C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list; now C 33-1 spreaders

[tom via CnC-List]

Rodney,
Nice pic of the rigging. Somewhat surprised though that you mention all
original never reheaded. I thought the norm was to do this by now.
My spreader pic is linked below, trying to show the angle.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dx8rxhya2dyummc/AACODZtg41WU01YI-AxHtfAIa?dl=0

With the 2 tangs that are just below the mast for the lower shrouds...does
the upper tang hold the forward shroud and the lower one the aft? Mine are
apart and I was wondering which.
Thanks for helping,
Tom


On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:49 PM, Rodney Randow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> My 33-1 spreaders are straight (no bend along length). If they are upward
> biased from mast perpendicular I do not remember from the last time I
> restepped the mast. Since the outboard spreader end fits into the rod's
> "dogbone" (spreader bend) fitting, I go with whatever the factory angle was
> -- original factory rigging and I know the rod was not reheaded. A previous
> reheading would increase the "upward angle" of the spreader -- probably not
> a good thing.
>
> Here is a link to a photo of my spreaders taken from the dock looking up.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxkg43xlih5hj78/C%26C33-1%20spreaders.JPG?dl=0
>
> Rod Randow
> C 33-1
>
>
> On 04/15/2017 02:30 PM, tom via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Stu,
> Can the following be posted on the CnC List?
>
> Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
> Hi Everyone,
> Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and
> wiring replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles
> and I have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is
> under consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question.
> Showing a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat
> lessened by tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending
> and slight malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the
> mast fitting. What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10
> degrees or so) at the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast
> fitting that would give the spreaders an upward bias.
> My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
> there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
> straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
> Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
> Tom Oryniak
> *Carry On* C 33-1
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Post question on CnC discussion list

[tom via CnC-List]

Stu,
Can the following be posted on the CnC List?

Mast, Turnbuckles and Spreader for C 33-1
Hi Everyone,
Having my mast down this season for rigging check and LED lights and wiring
replacement the rod seems to be original as well as the turnbuckles and I
have been advised to replace and not just re-head. While this is under
consideration awaiting estimate, the spreaders come in to question. Showing
a bit of looseness and shake (that might have been somewhat lessened by
tightening the holding screws) when removed showed some bending and slight
malformation of the spreader housing where it attaches to the mast fitting.
What is questionable is there is a noticeable angle (10 degrees or so) at
the edge of both  spreaders where they attach to the mast fitting that
would give the spreaders an upward bias.
My question: is this angle along the length of the spreader supposed to be
there or is the spreader supposed to be straight? If it is supposed to be
straight is reforming ok to do or do they need replacement?
Thanks much. Any help is appreciated, ,
Tom Oryniak
*Carry On* C 33-1
Raritan Bay NJ
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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[tom via CnC-List]

This happened to me also. Your prop is closing too tightly. There needs to
be some space between the blades when they close. The edges at the pin have
worn and need to have material added so that the blades do not fold
completely. More than likely the opposite is also occurring where the
blades are over opening and need some material added to those surface as
well.
Send it to Martec...it will cost about $125.

Tom Oryniak
33-1
Raritan Bay

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 7:43 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
> having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
> that you all are mentioning.
>
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
> fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
> with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
>
> So far I've tried:
>
>- to come to a complete stop and try again
>- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
>- short kick to full throttle.
>
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back
> to our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
> the clunk.
>
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
> from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
> the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for oil recommendation for 2GM20F

[tom via CnC-List]

Yanmar recommends straight weight oil and to vary it depending on the
season and temperature. For temps below 10C 10W or 20W; temps from 10-20C
20W; temps from 20-35C 30W or 40W. Rotella is recommended, but Yanmar
states "Choose a brand with a rating higher than SAE class CC"
Tom
30-1
Raritan Bay NJ

On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 12:17 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lots of different recommendations found via Google but favoring rotella t
> 15W40.
>
> What do you folks use?
>
>
> Located on Toronto and hauling out in 3 weeks
>
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[tom via CnC-List]

Kevin,
We do this at Raritan Yacht Club once a year for one of our long distance
(20 mi) races. We require sign up one day in  advance and figure ahead the
handicap times for that distance. Pick an easy starting GPS time ( 11:00
hrs or similar) and set each boats star accordingly. The race committee
assists by verbally counting down the last few sec for each start.  Any
boat that starts prior to their time gets a 5 min penalty for each part of
a minute they are ocs. The finishes are very interesting.
Tom
33-1

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 7:16 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'
> 
> before? I am curious how you went about it.
>
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
> boat's rating. These are our contestants
> .
> I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
> Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
> first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
> kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
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>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Shark River Inlet, NJ

[tom via CnC-List]

Ryan,
Why bother with all that inlet nonsense...come a bit farther north and stay
in Raritan Bay. You can anchor inside the Hook or go to Atlantic Highlands
and set up there...Horseshoe Cove is a great point or the Yacht Club is
very friendly. Easy access to NY Harbors.
But why go to Brooklyn? Morgan Marina is just up the bay. I can set you up
at Raritan YC, Perth Amboy if you want.
Tom
33-I
Carry On

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 8:17 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andy, Allen, and Jim,
>
> Thanks for the responses and Jim thanks very much for the offer for the
> overnight.  I really might just take you up on that if we do spend the
> night on the Manasquan.
>
> I was asking about Shark River Inlet because I'll just be coming from Toms
> River on my way to NYC.  So, I was hoping to make it further North than
> Manasquan Saturday, and then Sunday do the ocean sail up to the Sheepshead
> Bay Yacht club in Brooklyn where I'll be keeping her for the winter.
>
> I could do it in a straight shot from Toms River, but I've done this trip
> before (in the opposite direction) and splitting it over two days makes it
> much more fun - and allows for more sailing.  When I sailed from Brooklyn
> to Toms River in the spring we overnighted on the Manasquan.
>
> However, it sounds like Shark River inlet is pretty hairy...  What exactly
> makes it hairy?  Breaking waves?  Current?
>
> Ryan
> 1976 30-1
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[tom via CnC-List]

Constantly, every Wednesday and as many weekends as possible.
Sometimes tough as we find six crew is what we need in a breeze.
We rate 162 here as we only use a 135% on a furler.
Tom Oryniak
33-1 "Carry On"
New Jersey

On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 10:22 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm curious: How many of you guys race every Wednesday night?
>
>
> Antoine said : "I do have the shoal draft version (4? 3") and race it
> every Wednesday in our club"
>
> I do too.
>
> We look forward to it all week :-)  It's a great break in the middle of
> the week and a good place to meet like minded sailors..
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Rudder shaft collar for 35-3

[tom via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Having not found a replacement, we are fabricating a new rudder shaft
collar at a local machine shop for our C 35-3.
What bronze alloy material to use comes to question  It has been narrowed
to 2 different alloys, either #954 or #655.
Does anyone know what the original material was, or can comment on these
bronze alloys for use as a rudder shaft collar?

Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
New Jersey
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Re: Stus-List Assymetrical spinnaker pole

[tom via CnC-List]

Mike's advice is spot on. If your thinking of using the pole as to :"wing
out" the asym as you might do with a genoa; this would be totally illegal.
The pole could only be used to attach the tack of the sail while the clew
must remain free-flying. PHRF regulations generally state that there be no
outside force from the hull to the sheet or clew of a spinnaker. Check with
your local to be sure.

Tom Oryniak
Carry On,  33-1
New Jersey

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 11:44 AM, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I race on Wednesday nights on the Bohemia River in Maryland and lately the
> race committee has been doing a better job having a windward start and a
> down wind leg. Unfortunately, I use an assymetrical spinnaker which does
> very poorly dead down wind, even gybing has not helped. One of my crew was
> wondering if we used a regular spinnaker pole, if it would help us down
> wind. I was wondering if anyone on the forum has any experience using a
> pole with an assymetrical spinnaker.
>
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II, C 36 cb
> Chesapeake City, MD
>
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Re: Stus-List continuous line furlers

[tom via CnC-List]

Bill,
I have a Colligo continuous line furler on my code zero that is amazing.
Forget that top down stuff for this close reacher...this just furls like a
genoa. Ease the halyards and pack it away.
Tom

Tom Oryniak
Carry On 33-1
Perth Amboy NJ

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:15 PM, Bill Sprouse via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin?
> Thoughts pro or con?
>
> thanks
> bill
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Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[tom via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan,
Good luck with your new ride.

I race my 33-1 at Raritan Yacht Club on Raritan Bay. This is the most
active racing club in the Mid Atlantic area. We often have over 30 boats
competing on Wednesdays as well as a host of weekend activities. Our club
also has 3 affiliated boats and some 20 members currently competing in the
Bermuda Race as well as 3 time J-30 National Class champion and the current
US Sailing Mallory Cup Champion among others.

The racing program encompasses both intense as well as a lower keyed venue.
This weekend is a novice program designed for new to racing skippers where
a veteran racer comes aboard with you and helps not only understand the
courses and rules, but also helps you ready your boat and handling aspects.

There is plenty of deep water in the Bay and moorings are available.
Many membership types are available included a Corinthian Membership (at
greatly reduced cost)for those under 35. Your welcome to come aboard for a
spin to see first hand.
You can visit www.ryc.org and also send me a pm @   to6...@gmail.com

Look to see you,
Tom

Tom Oryniak
33-1 Carry On
New Jersey







On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:21 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
> interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
> a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
> outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
> It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
> wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
> Mass as a kid.
>
> We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
> dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
> to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Ryan
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[tom via CnC-List]

Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the
rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for
this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of
question is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch
or 11 1/2 threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches
in length.
Any help?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[tom via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan,
Looks great and might motivate me to do the same next season. Can you
comment though about the swim ladder. Was it difficult to work around and
should I think about removing it before painting?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
> finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
> complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
> "tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
> there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
> brush".
>
> This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
> 

Re: Stus-List 1975 CC 33 Mk1 Tiller Head

[Tom via CnC-List]

Hi Burt,
I have seen the 3/4 tonner. The Mk1 rudder post comes out of the cockpit sole, 
so it is about a foot lower than the 3/4 tonner. Also, the top of the post is 
square.
Thanks just the same.
Tom.
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