Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Richard & All, Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I love my 37! Started a fresh thread to introduce the boat and myself. Thread drift can be a bad habit with me. Vee berth has original shelves. They are nice, in fact they are great for covered plastic storage boxes placed on edge. They fill that high space efficiently with light stuff. There is still one small, occasional leak from a toe rail above - port side. I haven’t been able to eliminate it - spluged-out butyl? Not a big deal so far. Ceilings were missing from vee berth at time of purchase. Cleaned and sanded inner surface of hull. Appropriate Petit solvent primer with water based EZCabinCoat topcoat. Beige close enough match to C‘s off-white. After 2-1/2 years it’s still in very nice shape and cleans well. I really like light in there now. Quarter berth and saloon still have teak ceilings. They are in need of cleaning, light scuffing and teak oil. They will retain a nice patina. Can’t remember how the ceilings are ultimately attached and I didn’t take photos or notes as that is a minor, “is what it is”, construction detail. 樂 Have yet to learn how to load photos on this site. Hans R S/V Ete’ Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 3, 2021, at 2:24 PM, David Risch via CnC-List > wrote: > > Ignore the requests for a picture of a Foredeck Cow… > > (Welcome!!) > > From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2021 4:22 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Hans Reinhardt > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > Hi All, > First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... > Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on. > > The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled > edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of > It’s been awhile. > Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull > spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...? > > As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to > explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and > timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and > as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! > > Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the > wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the > arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... but > what that says about my skills is debatable. > > Hans Reinhardt > S/V Ete’ > 1982 C 37 > Shilshole Bay, Seattle > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs > and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'. > > Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of > teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are > separate pieces. > > The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a > single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both > vertically and fore and aft. > > They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of > their vertical 'run'. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > -Original Message- > From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: Robert Boyer > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing > with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to > adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). > > Bob > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com > email: dainyr...@icloud.com > > > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to > drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy > anything further. > > Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby > and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally > destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! > > Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no > 'remains' of the panel to save. > > Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the >
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Ignore the requests for a picture of a Foredeck Cow… (Welcome!!) From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2021 4:22 PM To: Stus-List Cc: Hans Reinhardt Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hi All, First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on. The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of It’s been awhile. Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...? As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... but what that says about my skills is debatable. Hans Reinhardt S/V Ete’ 1982 C 37 Shilshole Bay, Seattle Sent from my iPhone On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'. Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are separate pieces. The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both vertically and fore and aft. They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of their vertical 'run'. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom -Original Message- From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>> Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). Bob Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy anything further. Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains' of the panel to save. Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks! Thanks for the suggestions, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom -Original Message- From: Graham Collins via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Graham Collins mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>> Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity... Graham Collins Secret Plans C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it. First, of course, I have to remove some
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hans, welcome and happy to have you aboard...! I have a feeling that you will fit right in with this crowd...a mix of land and sea based nonconformists who love their boats..; or something like that; Does your 37 have the shelving in the V berth? and are the ceilings/battens attached to the shelving? Thanks; PS: great to have another 37 on the list here as well! Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List To: Stus-List Cc: Hans Reinhardt Sent: Wed, Feb 3, 2021 4:22 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hi All,First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on. The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of It’s been awhile. Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...? As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... butwhat that says about my skills is debatable. Hans Reinhardt S/V Ete’1982 C 37Shilshole Bay, Seattle Sent from my iPhone On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'. Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are separate pieces. The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both vertically and fore and aft. They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of their vertical 'run'. Charlie NelsonWater Phantom -Original Message- From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List To: Stus-List Cc: Robert Boyer Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). Bob Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy anything further. Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains' of the panel to save. Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks! Thanks for the suggestions, Charlie NelsonWater Phantom -Original Message- From: Graham Collins via CnC-List To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List Cc: Graham Collins Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity... Graham Collins Secret Plans C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the listers
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hi All, First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on. The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of It’s been awhile. Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...? As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... but what that says about my skills is debatable. Hans Reinhardt S/V Ete’ 1982 C 37 Shilshole Bay, Seattle Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs > and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'. > > Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of > teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are > separate pieces. > > The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a > single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both > vertically and fore and aft. > > They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of > their vertical 'run'. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > -Original Message- > From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: Robert Boyer > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing > with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to > adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). > > Bob > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com > email: dainyr...@icloud.com > >> On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to >> drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I >> destroy anything further. >> >> Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby >> and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were >> totally destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! >> >> Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no >> 'remains' of the panel to save. >> >> Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the >> partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may >> extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks! >> >> Thanks for the suggestions, >> >> Charlie Nelson >> Water Phantom >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Graham Collins via CnC-List >> To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List >> Cc: Graham Collins >> Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm >> Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' >> >> Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get >> the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and >> screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the >> screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power >> tool... >> You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue >> on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. >> And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with >> humidity... >> Graham Collins >> Secret Plans >> C 35-III #11 >> On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: >>> Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. >>> >>> I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this >>> material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. >>> >>> My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the >>> listers. They do have teak
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs
and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'.
Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of
teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are separate
pieces.
The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a
single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both
vertically and fore and aft.
They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of
their vertical 'run'.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
To: Stus-List
Cc: Robert Boyer
Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing
with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt
to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity).
Bob
Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)(Spending winters in warm
places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail:
dainyr...@icloud.com
On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to
drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy
anything further.
Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby
and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally
destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it!
Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains'
of the panel to save.
Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the
partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
Thanks for the suggestions,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Graham Collins
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the
plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a
wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus
the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could
replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so
there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't
press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak,
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!
Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.
Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need
a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step
backward).
Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the
list know what the solution turns out to be.
Charlie Nelson Water Phantom
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). Bob Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to > drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy > anything further. > > Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby > and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally > destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! > > Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no > 'remains' of the panel to save. > > Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the > partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may > extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks! > > Thanks for the suggestions, > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > -Original Message- > From: Graham Collins via CnC-List > To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > Cc: Graham Collins > Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get > the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and > screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the > screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power > tool... > You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue > on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. > And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with > humidity... > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C 35-III #11 > On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: >> Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. >> >> I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this >> material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. >> >> My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the >> listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the >> current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it. >> >> First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to >> determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be >> teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with >> most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps >> backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it >> usually works for me! >> >> Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the >> high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an >> oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it >> (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those >> somewhere. >> >> Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need >> a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd >> step backward). >> >> Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the >> list know what the solution turns out to be. >> >> Charlie Nelson >> Water Phantom >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to
drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy
anything further.
Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby
and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally
destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it!
Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains'
of the panel to save.
Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the
partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
Thanks for the suggestions,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Graham Collins
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the
plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a
wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus
the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could
replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so
there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't
press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak,
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!
Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.
Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need
a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step
backward).
Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the
list know what the solution turns out to be.
Charlie Nelson Water Phantom
#yiv6211884319 -- filtered {}#yiv6211884319 filtered {}#yiv6211884319
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, If it just has water stains, is there any way you could sand the damaged wood where it is and just recoat it with Watco Teak Oil? It's worth a try. I've cleaned stains off the teak cabinetry on my boat that way. I use a cleaner like Pinesol first and then lightly sand with 120. then 220, and sand the whole panel or the area with 220 and rub on some Teak Oil. Looks like new. Chuck S > On 02/01/2021 8:31 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. > > I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced > this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. > > My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the > listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the > current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it. > > First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to > determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be > teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with > most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps > backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually > works for me! > > Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of > the high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an > oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it > (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those > somewhere. > > Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely > need a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd > step backward). > > Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let > the list know what the solution turns out to be. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help > with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity... Graham Collins Secret Plans C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it. First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me! Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere. Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step backward). Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the list know what the solution turns out to be. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak,
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!
Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.
Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need a
router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step
backward).
Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the
list know what the solution turns out to be.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
#yiv3185193894 -- filtered {}#yiv3185193894 filtered {}#yiv3185193894 filtered
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{}#yiv3185193894 div.yiv3185193894WordSection1 {}Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hi Charlie
The 35-3 doesn't use this as the ceiling, but has on the sides a teak
surfaced plywood, maybe 1/4" thick, with grooves formed in it to
simulate it being strips of teak (a better version of the 1979s basement
family room paneling). If we are talking the same thing... I have no
idea where one would find it, I've not seen it online. Southshore may
have an idea.
Alternatively, you could go with full teak ply. Or paint it white and
brighten up the space?
best,
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2021-02-01 10:07 a.m., cenelson via CnC-List wrote:
Thank you.
I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps
from someone who is familiar with wooden boat construction.
More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is
likely what I will need to do.
Thanks again,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36XL
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
<https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright
wrote:
Thanks Charlie,
The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.
It had narrow strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel
screws which allowed you to take them out and refinish if
required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture but the site doesn’t
seem to allow it to go through.
Rod
*From:*Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* January-31-21 11:25 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com>
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some
others on this list. Now a few more listers, including myself,
know what to call this 'planking'.
With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit:
some of this 'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
has been destroyed by a water leak at my forward port hull deck
joint leak--since repaired.
What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my
original, which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with
V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run
longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high and 24
inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction. As
far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is
screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run
longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my
boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the
fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in
house or had a source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had
this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls.
I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this
'ceiling' with the grooves already cut.
Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a
local woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and
some appropriate wood and have at it myself.
Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your
terminology lesson!
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>>
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hi fellow C 99 owners,
On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called
a ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t
like to use terminology associated with houses on boats but
ceiling is defined below from the Glossary of Nautical terms.
*/ceiling/*
Planking attached to the inside of the frame
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#frame>s
or floor
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#floor>s
of a wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull
planking itself. The ceiling has different names in different
places: limber boards
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#limber_boards>,
spirketting
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#spirketting>,
quickwork
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#quickwork>.
The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what
you are standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship
On pleasure boats example Image
https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/
<https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/>
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Maybe Noah's here in Toronto. They've been here since C was. http://www.noahsmarine.com/ Dave 33-2 On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 09:14, Rod Stright via CnC-List wrote: > Maybe South Shore? > > > > *From:* cenelson via CnC-List > *Sent:* February-01-21 10:08 AM > *To:* Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List' < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* cenelson > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > > > Thank you. > > > > I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps > from someone who is familiar with wooden boat construction. > > > > More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is > likely what I will need to do. > > > > Thanks again, > > > > Charlie Nelson > > Water Phantom > > 1995 C 36XL > > > Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS > <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> > > On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright > wrote: > > Thanks Charlie, > > > > The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33. It had > narrow strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which > allowed you to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to > attach/enclose a picture but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go > through. > > > > Rod > > *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > *Sent:* January-31-21 11:25 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > > > Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on > this list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this > 'planking'. > > > > With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of > this 'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed > by a water leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired. > > > > What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, > which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on > a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about > 12 inches high and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" > direction. As far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling > is screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run > longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my boat runs > under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the fiberglass beneath the > V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by bungs. I don't know if C > manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a source for it. I do > think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls. > > > > I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' > with the grooves already cut. > > > > Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local > woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate > wood and have at it myself. > > > > Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson! > > > > Charlie Nelson > > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > > Water Phantom > > -Original Message- > From: Rod Stright via CnC-List > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: Rod Stright > Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm > Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > Hi fellow C 99 owners, > > On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a > ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use > terminology associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below > from the Glossary of Nautical terms. > > *ceiling* > > Planking attached to the inside of the frame > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#frame>s or floor > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#floor>s of a > wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. > The ceiling has different names in different places: limber boards > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#limber_boards>, > spirketting > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#spirketting>, > quickwork > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#quickwork>. The > lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are > standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship > > On pleasure boats example Image > https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/ > > > > Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go thro
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
That is an excellent suggestion.
I will give them a call-Rob McLaughlin? was very helpful on past requests for
metal parts.
Plus they are based in Canada so they might know of local sources.
Charlie Nelson
Charlie
Thanks
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Monday, February 1, 2021, 9:13 AM, Rod Stright wrote:
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Maybe South Shore?
From: cenelson via CnC-List
Sent: February-01-21 10:08 AM
To: Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List'
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thank you.
I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone
who is familiar with wooden boat construction.
More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely
what I will need to do.
Thanks again,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36XL
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright wrote:
Thanks Charlie,
The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33. It had narrow
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.
Rod
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this
'planking'.
With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of this
'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.
What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8"
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction. As far as
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside
of their hulls.
I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with
the grooves already cut.
Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate
wood and have at it myself.
Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rod Stright
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hi fellow C 99 owners,
On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary
of Nautical terms.
ceiling
Planking attached to the inside of the frames or floors of a wooden hull,
usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has
different names in different places: limber boards, spirketting, quickwork. The
lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing
on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship
On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/
T
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Maybe South Shore? From: cenelson via CnC-List Sent: February-01-21 10:08 AM To: Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List' Cc: cenelson Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Thank you. I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone who is familiar with wooden boat construction. More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely what I will need to do. Thanks again, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C 36XL Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> > wrote: Thanks Charlie, The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33. It had narrow strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through. Rod From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 'planking'. With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of this 'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired. What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction. As far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls. I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with the grooves already cut. Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate wood and have at it myself. Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson! Charlie Nelson 1995 C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom -Original Message- From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> > Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hi fellow C 99 owners, On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary of Nautical terms. ceiling Planking attached to the inside of the <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#frame> frames or <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#floor> floors of a wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has different names in different places: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#limber_boards> limber boards, <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#spirketting> spirketting, <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#quickwork> quickwork. The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/ Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website. Rod Stright C 99 Halifax, NS Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thank you.
I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone
who is familiar with wooden boat construction.
More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely
what I will need to do.
Thanks again,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright wrote:
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Thanks Charlie,
The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33. It had narrow
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.
Rod
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this
'planking'.
With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of this
'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.
What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8"
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction. As far as
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside
of their hulls.
I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with
the grooves already cut.
Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate
wood and have at it myself.
Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!
Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rod Stright
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hi fellow C 99 owners,
On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary
of Nautical terms.
ceiling
Planking attached to the inside of the frames or floors of a wooden hull,
usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has
different names in different places: limber boards, spirketting, quickwork. The
lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing
on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship
On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/
Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website.
Rod Stright
C 99
Halifax, NS
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 'planking'. With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp! To wit: some of this 'ceiling' in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired. What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction. As far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls. I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with the grooves already cut. Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate wood and have at it myself. Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson! Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom -Original Message- From: Rod Stright via CnC-List To: 'Stus-List' Cc: Rod Stright Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls' Hi fellow C 99 owners,On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary of Nautical terms.ceilingPlanking attached to the inside of the frames or floors of a wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has different names in different places: limber boards, spirketting, quickwork. The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden shipOn pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/ Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website. Rod StrightC 99Halifax, NSThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
