Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That is true, many different options.  I would look for 1/8 or 3/16ths
thick and the highest PSI rating.  As I recall 140psi is the highest.  If I
had to choose, it would be higher psi over higher thickness.

One of the concerns which has to be dealt with if choosing only 795 sealant
is that the curvature of the window will push sealant out of the middle of
the glass and leave it thicker at the ends.  The use of spacers is required.

Whenever using the sealant, mask, mask, mask.  Contour and clean the
sealant in the joint.  Only then should you remove the mask.  Pull at an
acute angle and away from the joint.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 29, 2017 9:21 AM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Josh.
>
> According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.
>
> https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937;
> utm_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape&
> utm_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape&
> AdMatchtype=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds
>
> Suggestions regarding the right one?
>
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 6:42 PM
> *To:* C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Matthew — I used this: 

  1/2” gray 4991 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a77/=11qrjgk

It has held up well, and was easy to install; so long as get it in the right 
place before you stick it down…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Mar 29, 2017, at 8:20 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Thanks, Josh.

  According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.

  
https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds

  Suggestions regarding the right one?




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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Matthew — I used this:

> 1/2” gray 4991 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a77/=11qrjgk 
> 
It has held up well, and was easy to install; so long as get it in the right 
place before you stick it down…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 8:20 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Josh.
>  
> According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.
>  
> https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds
>  
> 
>  
> Suggestions regarding the right one?

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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh.

According to Uline, which sells VHB tape, there many different varieties.

https://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes?pricode=WL937_source=Bing_medium=cpc_term=3m%20vhb%20tape_campaign=3M%20Tapes=3m%20vhb%20tape=e=CKm76qbm-9ICFWqbMgod3KQJTw=ds

Suggestions regarding the right one?


From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 6:42 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape of any 
type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final repair more 
difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly impervious to any other 
adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes will break down after a short 
period of time resulting in a messy residue which will necessitate the used of 
a goo remover which may, like silicone, make future adhesives ineffective. 

"Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."


The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow 795 to 
seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the longevity of 
the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have unforseen 
disadvantages.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive, 
mechanical fasteners, or both?

  From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Franklin Schenk 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

  Bruce,


  Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  
Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later 
you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.


  Frank



  On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




  I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when 
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used. 

  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA

  ~~~_/)~~



  On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello again everyone,

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights 
windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many 
seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them 
for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually 
replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop 
all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

Thanks! 


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





--

  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


  ___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






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make a contr

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I came across a sealant, for aluminum to stucco.  It meant to deal with 
'significant' movements.  I used to (temporarily) seal the head hatch, still 
holding up well after 2 years.  It was readily available at Home Depot, the 
tube is on the boat so I do not have the info.  The sealant is off-white, quite 
a reasonable match to the gelcoat.

Leslie.
Phoenix C 1983


On Tue, 3/28/17, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+
 To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 Cc: "Gary Russell" <captnga...@gmail.com>
 Date: Tuesday, March 28, 2017, 12:19 PM
 
 I'm
 guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows
 "work" significantly when the boat flexes and I
 doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner
 tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That
 being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone
 and may work better than what the PO used.
 GaryS/V
 Kaylarah'90 C 37+East
 Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 
 On
 Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
 <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 wrote:
 Hello
 again everyone,
 Our C 37/40+ has
 a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
 windows.  I have read up on the removal &
 re-installation process, and many seem to be recommending
 the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). 
 
 I would
 like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing
 them for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I
 intend to eventually replace them (say in 18 months or
 so), in the short term I simply want to stop all leaks so
 that we can prevent any further staining of the teak. 
 
 Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing
 this?  Should I simply attempt to carefully mask the
 fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply a
 bead of Dow 795?  
 Would it be better to
 apply a thin layer on the inside?  
 Or,
 am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
 Thanks!
 
 Bruce Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I've read the other responses and while it would be best to do the job right, 
VHB and 795, and so on, I have had good luck with the 795. I used just 795 to 
replace my portlights two years ago and they have held up very well in Toronto 
where we get dramatic temperature variations from summer to winter. Since I am 
in Canada, it was cost prohibitive to get the correct thickness VHB, so I went 
with 795. 

My anecdotal evidence for a quick fix with the 795 was after sealing up the 
leaking windshield on my 2001 Jetta. I had the windshield replaced at one point 
by a mobile installer guy and eventually it developed a leak right above the 
drivers seat at the seam at the roof. I contemplated taking it in to a proper 
windshield shop but they didn't want to risk breaking it to remove it. A couple 
years later, after doing the portlights on the boat, I figured "Hmm, I still 
have a bunch of tubes of 795 - maybe that would fix that pesky leak." It's held 
up fine for at least a year and adhered to whatever was there with no real 
preparations other than masking the adjacent areas. My portlights had vertical 
cracks running through the acrylic, so sealing the edge wouldn't have helped, 
but if the leak is just at the edge, it could be worth a try. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto

> On Mar 28, 2017, at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> Hello again everyone,
> 
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  
> I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
> recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). 
> 
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
> now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
> them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
> leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and 
> apply a bead of Dow 795? 
> 
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside? 
> 
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

 

Any permanent leak replacement requires a removal / cleaning / new window / use 
a suitable sealer & adhesive such as Dow 795 or similar.  An interim solution 
is use 3M decorative tape (black??) and tape over the joint of window and cabin 
top.  We did this for several years and it stopped the leaks until we could do 
the permanent replacement.

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

 

Hello again everyone,

 

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

 

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

 

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

 

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

 

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

HI Fred,
 I think the VHB thickness used most frequently is 0.090".  I believe
that thickness to be sufficient to allow movement of the acrylic without
cracking.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
>   I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
> question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
> port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
> tape help?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
>> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
>> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
>> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
>> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
>> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
>> make future adhesives ineffective.
>>
>> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>>
>> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
>> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
>> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
>> unforseen disadvantages.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?
>> Caulk/adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or both?
>>
>> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
>> 37/40+
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
>> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
>> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly
>> when the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My
>> previous owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That
>> being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work
>> better than what the PO used.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello again everyone,
>>
>> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
>> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
>> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
>> similar).
>>
>> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
>> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
>> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
>> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
>> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
>> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>>
>> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>>
>> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> __ _
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

All,
 One unforeseen disadvantage is that any mechanical fastener creates a
stress concentration which will almost guarantee a crack will form in the
acrylic.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offs

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
tape help?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape of
any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
make future adhesives ineffective.

"Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."

The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow 795
to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
unforseen disadvantages.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
mechanical fasteners, or both?

*From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Bruce,

Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.

Frank


On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
than what the PO used.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello again everyone,

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
similar).

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
apply a bead of Dow 795?

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/
stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


--
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive, 
mechanical fasteners, or both?

From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Franklin Schenk 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Bruce,


Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  Unless 
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later you can 
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.


Frank



On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when the 
boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used. 

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Hello again everyone,

  Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  
I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

  I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

  Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

  Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

  Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

  Thanks! 


  Bruce Whitmore

  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  __ _

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Bruce,
Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  Unless 
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later you can 
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
Frank 

On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when the 
boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  
Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  
Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
Thanks! 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
than what the PO used.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  
Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  
Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
Thanks! 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!