Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end

[Dennis Monticelli]

The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters.  Probably some folks would
toss the LO in that grouping also.  Basically it refers to what is in front
of the first IF.

Dennis AE6C

On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:55 PM, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.comwrote:

 Exactly what components constitute the front end of the R4A?

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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Ed Tanton]

Way back in the early 70s when I worked at Tektronix, we would wash 545s and
the like in a pressure washer booth-if they were REALLY bad. You had to be
really careful where/what you sprayed, else you'd lose thinks like the power
transformer. We then used an airhose to blow the water out as best you
could, same admonitions about the transformer(s). Finally there was a 48hr
bake. I don't remember the temp. Generally, no matter how careful you were,
the power transformer failure rate was probably 30-50%.

Ed Tanton
 
website: http://www.n4xy.com 
 
All emails IN  OUT checked by 
Norton AntiVirus with AutoProtect 

--
Wag more / Bark less
--


-Original Message-
From: Steve Wedge [mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 10:05 PM
To: n...@comcast.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: Baked Drakes

Never leave the PTO, meter or any other plastics like that on the rig when
baking.

I always remove the PTO, meter, front panel and, of course all knobs and
tubes.  It's basically a stripped chassis when it gets its wash and dry. 
Never submerge - only wash with brushes and detergent, rinse thoroughly with
the sink sprayer above and below, then pour distilled water over it.

I take the rigs out to the shed before the oven for an encounter with an air
gun.  That will remove most of the water.

Yes, you have to re-oil everything when you're done and on the A and B
receivers I also recommend removing the PBT coil carriage after cleaning to
clean the dried-out grease from the assembly.

The equipment looks and smells much better and runs cooler.  After 40 - 50
years, even a clean-looking chassis is hiding a lot of dirt.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message -
From: Ed Tanton n...@comcast.net
To: 'Steve Wedge' w1es1...@earthlink.net; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 9:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] T-4X: put on your thinking caps!


Oven temp that won't harm plastic? I am going to need the same thing for
several projects. I had simply planned to use Warm for 24 hours, but would
love to hear your (or anyone else's) version Steve!!! Thanks.

Ed Tanton

website: http://www.n4xy.com

All emails IN  OUT checked by
Norton AntiVirus with AutoProtect

--
Wag more / Bark less
--
///snip

Ah, well, the T-4X is over in the corner for now and will require all my
tools to troubleshoot.  I started on the first of the two R-4B's tonight,
have dismantled and washed it and it's now in the oven drying.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

///snip



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Re: [Drakelist] Stability Test and FAN

[Steve Wedge]

Brilliant, Jim.  Looks like I've got to add that to my Lowe's list :)

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
Sent: Nov 30, 2011 9:56 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Stability Test and FAN

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 19:46:36 -0500, Steve Wedge wrote:

This is a nice extra!  I just stuck some rubber feet on my fan and it rests 
on top.  I periodically have to move it back over after a few days, but it 
avoids having to drill/enlarge any holes. 


Hve you tried those thin adhesive magnetic strips? They should keep the fan
from walking, and you would elimiate the air gap.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Steve Wedge]

The key is keeping it warm but not overdoing it with the heat.  Everything left 
in a bare chassis can easily withstand a 140 - 150 F soak.  At that 
temperature, the water and moisture don't stick around for very long.

When I'm in a rush, I'll leave it in for half a day, but normally I get it to 
the point of getting it into the oven in the afternoon so it can sit overnight. 
 The worst thing is to get water into the power or audio xformers, so I try to 
avoid hitting them with too much other than overspray.  The IF cans dry out 
fine.

My oven is so well-insulated that I can take it to about 150 - 160, turn it off 
and leave the light on in the oven, and it's still 110 when I get up in the 
morning.  I've been toying with the idea of sticking a 100W droplight in there 
to maintain a slightly-higher temp but haven't tried it yet (Easy-Bake Oven, 
anyone?).

Oh - and I haven't lost a rig yet giving it a sink or bathtub (think NC-240-D) 
cleaning!  The only old stuff I've lost while in my possession have cooked 
their power transformers due to shorting electrolytic caps!

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net
Sent: Nov 30, 2011 10:23 PM
To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Hey Steve,
How long and at what temp? I would worry about getting water in the IF 
cans etc. Does it just bake out? ?

Thanks,

Bob  K6GGO

 Never leave the PTO, meter or any other plastics like that on the rig 
 when baking.

 I always remove the PTO, meter, front panel and, of course all knobs 
 and tubes.  It's basically a stripped chassis when it gets its wash 
 and dry. Never submerge - only wash with brushes and detergent, rinse 
 thoroughly with the sink sprayer above and below, then pour distilled 
 water over it.

 I take the rigs out to the shed before the oven for an encounter with 
 an air gun.  That will remove most of the water.

 Yes, you have to re-oil everything when you're done and on the A and B 
 receivers I also recommend removing the PBT coil carriage after 
 cleaning to clean the dried-out grease from the assembly.

 The equipment looks and smells much better and runs cooler.  After 40 
 - 50 years, even a clean-looking chassis is hiding a lot of dirt.

 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
 - Joe Walsh






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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Steve Wedge]

I've been swearing by Simple Green.  The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, 
as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't.

BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean 
out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a re-lube 
of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric shaft with Rem 
Oil.  

Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier!  You should rinse the vernier it 
with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.  For grungy 
C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them from 
the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two discs.

And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears!

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net
Sent: Dec 1, 2011 7:39 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Same at Tektronix Richard

I just saw pictures from a Hallicrafters restorer that swears by 
scrubbing bubbles tub and tile cleaner.  He apparently applies it at 
least twice to all the bottom-side point to point wiring and also the 
top of chassis with everything except the delicates taken off.  THey 
looked REALLY nice when he was done.  I expect to give this a try here 
soon as I am working on a 30S-1 sub chassis that is pretty gunky.  Will 
let the list know the result.

Curt
KU8L

On 12/1/2011 1:09 AM, Richard Knoppow wrote:

 - Original Message - From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net
 To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes


 Hey Steve,
 How long and at what temp? I would worry about getting water in the 
 IF cans etc. Does it just bake out? ?

 Thanks,

 Bob  K6GGO


 I will repeat the method used at Hewlett-Packard many years ago. 
 First step was to remove anything that could be damaged by water or 
 heat. All closed compartments were opened. Then the chassis was rinsed 
 with warm water from a hose. Then sprayed with a paint spray gun 
 filled with a solution of water and dishwashing detergent and also 
 brushed if necessary with a bottle brush. After washing it was again 
 rinsed off with the hose and warm water. Then blown out with 
 compressed air to remove as much water as possible. Then it was baked 
 in a thermostatically controlled electric oven at about 130F for at 
 least 48 hours. I preferred to keep stuff in there for a week if it 
 was available. Then whatever was removed was replaced and the 
 instrument checked on a metered variac. This procedure took off pretty 
 much anything other than serious fungus (that stuff went to the 
 factory and I don't know what they did with it).


 -- 
 Richard Knoppow
 Los Angeles
 WB6KBL
 dickb...@ix.netcom.com

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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Steve Wedge]

I've been swearing by Simple Green.  The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, 
as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't.

BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean 
out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a re-lube 
of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric shaft with Rem 
Oil.  

Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier!  You should rinse the vernier it 
with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.  For grungy 
C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them from 
the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two discs.

And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears!

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net
Sent: Dec 1, 2011 7:39 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Same at Tektronix Richard

I just saw pictures from a Hallicrafters restorer that swears by 
scrubbing bubbles tub and tile cleaner.  He apparently applies it at 
least twice to all the bottom-side point to point wiring and also the 
top of chassis with everything except the delicates taken off.  THey 
looked REALLY nice when he was done.  I expect to give this a try here 
soon as I am working on a 30S-1 sub chassis that is pretty gunky.  Will 
let the list know the result.

Curt
KU8L

On 12/1/2011 1:09 AM, Richard Knoppow wrote:

 - Original Message - From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net
 To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes


 Hey Steve,
 How long and at what temp? I would worry about getting water in the 
 IF cans etc. Does it just bake out? ?

 Thanks,

 Bob  K6GGO


 I will repeat the method used at Hewlett-Packard many years ago. 
 First step was to remove anything that could be damaged by water or 
 heat. All closed compartments were opened. Then the chassis was rinsed 
 with warm water from a hose. Then sprayed with a paint spray gun 
 filled with a solution of water and dishwashing detergent and also 
 brushed if necessary with a bottle brush. After washing it was again 
 rinsed off with the hose and warm water. Then blown out with 
 compressed air to remove as much water as possible. Then it was baked 
 in a thermostatically controlled electric oven at about 130F for at 
 least 48 hours. I preferred to keep stuff in there for a week if it 
 was available. Then whatever was removed was replaced and the 
 instrument checked on a metered variac. This procedure took off pretty 
 much anything other than serious fungus (that stuff went to the 
 factory and I don't know what they did with it).


 -- 
 Richard Knoppow
 Los Angeles
 WB6KBL
 dickb...@ix.netcom.com

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Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end

[Steve Wedge]

I've always considered it to be the first stages that are working with the original frequency that was received by the antenna. That would generally agree with the RF amp and input to the first mixer.
YMMV
Steve, W1ES/4
-Original Message- From: Dennis Monticelli Sent: Dec 1, 2011 4:00 AM To: Neil M Califano Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end 
The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters. Probably some folks would toss the LO in that grouping also. Basically it refers to what is in front of the first IF.

Dennis AE6C
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:55 PM, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote:
Exactly what components constitute the front end of the R4A?___Drakelist mailing listDrakelist@zerobeat.nethttp://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

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Re: [Drakelist] Stability Test and FAN

[Eugene Balinski]

Running a  220 VAC fans at 120VAC  (just plug them in to
the wall outlet) accomplishes the same thing.   Quietly
moving air out of the cabinet. I use one on my T4XB all the
time. 

220V fans are usually available cheap at ham fests because
no one want them.

73
K1NR 

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 20:07:23 -0800
 Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote:
 You can get the same airflow by running a larger fan at a
 lower speed with
 the benefit being lower audible noise.  I have some
 surplus 4 fans that
 have rubber feet attached and just sit over the hot
 portion of the
 cabinet.  I run them at a DC value below their ratings.
  They don't walk,
 aren't heard, and substantially lower the peak temps
 within the radio.
 
 Dennis AE6C
 
 On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 5:21 PM, Bob Loving
 bob.lov...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
 
Hi, Paul:
 
  I purchased a T4-XC with MS-4 speaker and AC-4 on the
 cheap. The rig,
  etc., are in really nice shape and the cabinets of the
 T4-XC and MS-4 had
  been repainted beautifully.
 
  The T4-XC had an 80-mm square dc fan on the back of the
 PA cage. Two
  screws to mount it at the top and a tie wrap on the
 left hand side (as
  viewed from the back). On inspection, the feed for the
 fan was the 12.6Vac
  filament line with only a 1N4000-series diode in
 series. The fan runs very
  quietly; it is produced by PPM, (Pony Precision Motor
 Co. in Taiwan),
  model FBA-9, brushless and ball bearing. Any 12Vdc fan
 would probably work
  and you can find the 80-mm fans in abundance from the
 computer stores. If
  you want a higher speed from the fan, add an
 electrolytic capacitor the
  output of the rectifier to increase the average dc
 voltage.
 
  73,
 
  Bob K9JU
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Al Parker]

Hi folks,
	There's been a post on another list in the last cupla days re: a 
different Simple Green, reported to be more user  radio friendly than 
the regular stuff.  The part number for a one gallon container is 13406 
and a google search under Simple Green 13406 will yield many hits on 
suppliers.  I see that thru Amazon, a gal. can be del'd for less that 
$30, and that'll keep most of us busy for a cupla yrs.

I quote from a satisfied BA'type, R-390A's, user here:
--
The Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner is entirely different. 
First it is clear.  When using it it is very similar to 409 but with 
some significant advantages.  Although the directions give information 
for diluting, if you wish, I used it without dilution.


First of all, it removed dirty film that 409 couldn’t clean.  Secondly 
it is not as allergic if one gets a sniff of it while spraying.  It 
still needs the elbow grease and you may need to do a surface several 
times before all the grime comes off.  I didn’t wear gloves when using 
it and after rinsing and drying my hands they seemed normal with no 
dryness.


	I have't tried it yet, and haven't used Simple Green, but have used 409 
and Srubbing Bubbles sparingly.  Scrub B's has been reported by a 
chemist-type to be non-ionic and safe.  Not sure abt 409.  I do use 
plain water and hand dishwashing liquid soap mostly, applied carefully 
with a paint brush, and reserve the rest for bad problems.  Rinse 
anything/everything well with distilled water.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

On 12/1/2011 12:42 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've been swearing by Simple Green.  The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, 
as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't.

BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean 
out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a re-lube 
of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric shaft with Rem 
Oil.

Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier!  You should rinse the vernier it 
with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.  For grungy 
C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them from 
the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two discs.

And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears!

73,

Steve, W1ES/4


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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[John Hudson]

As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good 
friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test 
equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing 
whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under 
pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed,  then rinsing with distilled 
water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.  He said 
transformers were not a problem for this process.

It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and placed 
in our document files.


- Original Message -
From: Al Parker [mailto:anc...@ec.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 10:55 AM
To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: captc...@flash.net captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Hi folks,
There's been a post on another list in the last cupla days re: a 
different Simple Green, reported to be more user  radio friendly than 
the regular stuff.  The part number for a one gallon container is 13406 
and a google search under Simple Green 13406 will yield many hits on 
suppliers.  I see that thru Amazon, a gal. can be del'd for less that 
$30, and that'll keep most of us busy for a cupla yrs.
I quote from a satisfied BA'type, R-390A's, user here:
--
The Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner is entirely different. 
First it is clear.  When using it it is very similar to 409 but with 
some significant advantages.  Although the directions give information 
for diluting, if you wish, I used it without dilution.

First of all, it removed dirty film that 409 couldn’t clean.  Secondly 
it is not as allergic if one gets a sniff of it while spraying.  It 
still needs the elbow grease and you may need to do a surface several 
times before all the grime comes off.  I didn’t wear gloves when using 
it and after rinsing and drying my hands they seemed normal with no 
dryness.

I have't tried it yet, and haven't used Simple Green, but have used 409 
and Srubbing Bubbles sparingly.  Scrub B's has been reported by a 
chemist-type to be non-ionic and safe.  Not sure abt 409.  I do use 
plain water and hand dishwashing liquid soap mostly, applied carefully 
with a paint brush, and reserve the rest for bad problems.  Rinse 
anything/everything well with distilled water.
73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

On 12/1/2011 12:42 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:
 I've been swearing by Simple Green.  The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, 
 as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't.

 BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean 
 out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a 
 re-lube of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric 
 shaft with Rem Oil.

 Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier!  You should rinse the vernier it 
 with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.  For grungy 
 C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them 
 from the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two 
 discs.

 And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears!

 73,

 Steve, W1ES/4

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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Richard Knoppow]

- Original Message - 
From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov

To: anc...@ec.rr.com; w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes


As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the 
list. One of my good friends worked at HP Fullerton 
cleaning, repairing, and aligning test equipment. The 
process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, 
removing whose items that water would damage, using a 
solution of simple green under pressure washer, scrubbing 
with brush as needed,  then rinsing with distilled water, 
air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week. 
He said transformers were not a problem for this process.


It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of 
this process and placed in our document files.


We never had any documentation, just something handed 
down. I worked for Neeley Sales Division which became the 
Fullerton office later. We used dishwashing detergent but 
Simple Green might work better. The transformers and chokes 
we had trouble with were curiously enough the hermetically 
sealed ones. That was because the sealing was often not 
intact so that a little moisture could get in. It would be 
very difficult to get it out again and it, or perhaps the 
detergent, would cause arcing and loss of the device. Those 
transformers and chokes were removed before cleaning. Open 
frame units would dry out fine and were not a problem. We 
removed meters and some plastic parts although the drying 
oven was not hot enough to damage most plastic. A thorough 
rinse is important as is blowing out the excess moisture 
with filtered compressed air. Filtered because many air 
compressors leave some oil residue in the air. Lubrication 
when necessary was done to factory specs but I have 
forgotten what was used, probably something gotten from -hp- 
rather than locally. While I went to training classes at 
Palo Alto and spent some time at the microwave division 
factory I never visited the repair shop there so I don't 
know what procedures they used.
  We also painted cabinets when required. Note that 
older cabinets were painted in whatever the current color 
was so that you will find older instruments that originally 
came with the dark gray cabinets painted in the almost 
violet lighter gray or even blue.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 



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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[john]

baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.



It's much faster to do it by hand without risking old gear for which a 
ready stock of spares doesn't exist on the shop floor stockroom, like it 
did at HP.



Just my $0.02 .  Old gear takes time. It's a good thing.

John K5MO


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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[Steve Wedge]

Long before I joined this list, I remember hearing about Tektronix' washing 
the older scopes.  I can remember doing calibrations on some of them and 
many had several HV supplies, so it's common sense that you would remove 
those before washing.
One guy I worked with worked in Oregon and they used to wash them there, 
too.


I actually washed a Swan 250 in the dishwasher once, using alconox and, of 
course, thoroughly drying it afterward.  Yes, it was a bare chassis - that 
detergent would probably have a bad effect on silkscreened front panels. 
The rig came out squeaky-clean and worked fine (I do recall replacing the 
audio output transformer).


Tonight, I wire-brushed the rust off the R-4B chassis and painted over the 
nastiness with copper paint.  Looks bad close-up, but looks better than the 
corrosion that it covers and will blend in with the chassis when the cover 
is back on.  When you get one like this, it's not a museum piece anymore 
anyway, so you work at making a nice user piece (tool collectors and users 
do the same sort of thing). Yes, if it was an SX-88 or a 1A, I would leave 
it as-is, but it's not an SX-88 or a 1A.


I also took apart the PBT, cleaned and re-greased it, and cleaned the PTO 
and re-oiled it.  There was a lot of sludge in the bearing race and all over 
the Nylon gear.  Once the sludge was removed, I discovered some end-play and 
it reminded me of how we used to really over-grease our ball joints on our 
cars when I was a lad to try and fool the inspectors.


This receiver should be ready for alignment by the weekend.

73,


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake 
of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.

-Ayn Rand.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 4:50 PM
To: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov; anc...@ec.rr.com; 
w1es1...@earthlink.net

Cc: captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes



- Original Message - 
From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov

To: anc...@ec.rr.com; w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes


As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of 
my good friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning 
test equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, 
removing whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple 
green under pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed,  then 
rinsing with distilled water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 
degrees for a week. He said transformers were not a problem for this 
process.


It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and 
placed in our document files.


We never had any documentation, just something handed down. I worked 
for Neeley Sales Division which became the Fullerton office later. We used 
dishwashing detergent but Simple Green might work better. The transformers 
and chokes we had trouble with were curiously enough the hermetically 
sealed ones. That was because the sealing was often not intact so that a 
little moisture could get in. It would be very difficult to get it out 
again and it, or perhaps the detergent, would cause arcing and loss of the 
device. Those transformers and chokes were removed before cleaning. Open 
frame units would dry out fine and were not a problem. We removed meters 
and some plastic parts although the drying oven was not hot enough to 
damage most plastic. A thorough rinse is important as is blowing out the 
excess moisture with filtered compressed air. Filtered because many air 
compressors leave some oil residue in the air. Lubrication when necessary 
was done to factory specs but I have forgotten what was used, probably 
something gotten from -hp- rather than locally. While I went to training 
classes at Palo Alto and spent some time at the microwave division factory 
I never visited the repair shop there so I don't know what procedures they 
used.
  We also painted cabinets when required. Note that older cabinets 
were painted in whatever the current color was so that you will find older 
instruments that originally came with the dark gray cabinets painted in 
the almost violet lighter gray or even blue.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 



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Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end

[Jim Shorney]

On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 01:00:06 -0800, Dennis Monticelli wrote:

The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters.  Probably some folks would 
toss the LO in that grouping also.  Basically it refers to what is in front of 
the first IF.


I always considered it to be everything between the antenna input and the
mixer, but not including the mixer because it is, well, the mixer. FWIW,
Wikipedia agrees with the above definition.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--

It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



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