[Drakelist] T-4xc sidetone problem

2013-10-13 Thread Paolo Emanuelli IK1QHB
good evening

I have a problem with my t-4XC.
The sidetone works, but beyond my cw note, you will hear a whistle or other 
note 
This whistle disappears if I delete ANTIVOX cable, and listening to me through 
the R4C my note is always pure and clean in the air.
So it's a local problem sidetone.
I tried to replace the 12AX7 and 6ev7 that are part of the circuit sidetone, 
vox etc.. etc., but I did not get any change.

Some amateur has had similar problems?

many thanks
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4xc sidetone problem

2013-10-13 Thread Tom Laird
replaced C-107 with a 250VDC 47mfd electrolytic.

Tom W9QI

-Original Message-
From: Paolo Emanuelli IK1QHB [mailto:ik1...@fastwebnet.it] 
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 11:29 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4xc sidetone problem


good evening

I have a problem with my t-4XC.
The sidetone works, but beyond my cw note, you will hear a whistle or other
note  This whistle disappears if I delete ANTIVOX cable, and listening
to me through the R4C my note is always pure and clean in the air. So it's a
local problem sidetone. I tried to replace the 12AX7 and 6ev7 that are part
of the circuit sidetone, vox etc.. etc., but I did not get any change.

Some amateur has had similar problems?

many thanks
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC

2013-09-16 Thread Manny Miyares
Update: 
With everyone's advice I looked into what freq the transmitter was really on. I 
found the crystal wafer switch off position and really thought that was my 
issue, not. I also found no matter where the transceive switch was, it always 
uses the injection VFO from the R-4C. Of course with the Saints game on 
yesterday, I didn't spend a whole lot of time after aligning the shaft and 
making a few tests.thanks all,manny- wd5bjr
-Original Message-
From: Glen Kirkpatrick w...@leosatinc.com
Sent 9/15/2013 10:19:17 AM
To: Manny Miyares ma...@catcomm.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XCHi Manny, You may have resolved this offline 
already.  I'm not exactly sure how the Drake reflector works these days after 
they went to the web-based format (It's hard when you're an old guy...). 
Anyway, you may have checked this, but it sounds like there could be a problem 
with the port on the MFJ multiport switch that the T-4XC is connected to.  Try 
swapping ports with one of the other rigs and see if the problem follows the 
rig or the port. What is the sequence of equipment connections?  It sounds like 
transmitter, switch, MN-2000, amplifier, SWR/power meter and antenna.  This is 
probably unrelated, but it might
be better to put the matching network between the SWR meter and antenna.  The 
logic is that the transmitter output pi network should have no problem matching 
the amplifier input impedance, but the amplifier may or may not be able to 
match the antenna impedance.  If you put the MN-2000 between the amp and the 
antenna, both the transmitter and amplifier are looking into 50 ohms.  That way 
when you switch between amplifier in-line and bypassed, nothing needs to be 
retuned. Please let me know what you find.  I've been running the same T-4XC 
since 1978 (it was used when I got it).  Still works! GL  73, Glen - 
W9LSFrom: Manny Miyares ma...@catcomm.netTo: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: 
Saturday, September 14, 2013 4:26 PMSubject: [Drakelist] T-4XCHi Guys,
I'm just back into radio this year and find myself gravitating to the older 
gear. I have several C pieces along with an L-4B (have to have one of these). 
I bought several broken and find a bad resistor or tube through most, however I 
have a T-4XC that's giving be problems. I can tune up into a dummy load fine, 
however on the G5RV SWR is through the roof. Keep in mind I have an MJF Multi 
Port Antenna switch and have my MFJ Antenna Analyzer on a transmitter port and 
switch to it to match the antenna through my MN-2000 which feeds into my amp 
and meter. I can get a 1:1 match through the antenna tuner with the Analyzer, 
flip to one of two radios, my TR-4C, and 4Cw and keep the low SWR. Even my 
Yaesu FT-897D is happy with this configuration. When I switch to the T-4XC the 
SWR jumps to 5+ to 1!!! (Yes, I've checked the patch cables) Holy Smokes 
Batman!!! So into a dummy load it's happy, but when I move to a matched antenna 
it goes nuts. I can't even
match the T-4XC direct using the tuner and way off where the analyzer first 
tuned the antenna.Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.Thanks guys, manny- 
wd5bjr
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC

2013-09-16 Thread hpolkscw

On Sep 16, 2013, at 9:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

 With everyone's advice I looked into what freq the transmitter was really on. 
 I found the crystal wafer switch off position and really thought that was my 
 issue, not. I also found no matter where the transceive switch was, it always 
 uses the injection VFO from the R-4C. Of course with the Saints game on 
 yesterday, I didn't spend a whole lot of time after aligning the shaft and 
 making a few tests.thanks all,manny- 

This situation reminded me of a problem I had with a TR4 many years ago when I 
attached a remote VFO.
The internal TR4 VFO would not turn off when the remote VFO was activated, both 
VFO's were running. I checked the remote VFO on another TR4 and it worked 
properly.
Examining carefully the printed circuit board in the TR4 VFO I found a solder 
bridge between two tracks.  Removing that bridge cured the problem and it 
worked correctly after the bridge removal.

Harold
N3HP
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC

2013-09-15 Thread Curt Nixon

Hi Manny:

Are you sure that when you are transmitting into the Dummy load that the 
output is on the frequency you think?  Check it.  The dummy load will 
happily load the Tx on ANY freq it puts out...the tuned antenna only one 
or two places--so if the output is mixing improperly and off freq, it 
wont load properly.


Put a scope on the output or a freq counter or a general coverage Rx 
while on the Dummy load.


FWIW

Curt
KU8L




On 9/14/2013 7:26 PM, Manny Miyares wrote:

Hi Guys,

I'm just back into radio this year and find myself gravitating to the 
older gear. I have several C pieces along with an L-4B (have to have 
one of these). I bought several broken and find a bad resistor or tube 
through most, however I have a T-4XC that's giving be problems. I can 
tune up into a dummy load fine, however on the G5RV SWR is through the 
roof. Keep in mind I have an MJF Multi Port Antenna switch and have my 
MFJ Antenna Analyzer on a transmitter port and switch to it to match 
the antenna through my MN-2000 which feeds into my amp and meter. I 
can get a 1:1 match through the antenna tuner with the Analyzer, flip 
to one of two radios, my TR-4C, and 4Cw and keep the low SWR. Even my 
Yaesu FT-897D is happy with this configuration. When I switch to the 
T-4XC the SWR jumps to 5+ to 1!!! (Yes, I've checked the patch cables) 
Holy Smokes Batman!!! So into a dummy load it's happy, but when I move 
to a matched antenna it goes nuts. I can't even match the T-4XC direct 
using the tuner and way off where the analyzer first tuned the antenna.


Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys,

manny- wd5bjr


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[Drakelist] T-4XC

2013-09-14 Thread Manny Miyares
Hi Guys,
I'm just back into radio this year and find myself gravitating to the older 
gear. I have several C pieces along with an L-4B (have to have one of these). 
I bought several broken and find a bad resistor or tube through most, however I 
have a T-4XC that's giving be problems. I can tune up into a dummy load fine, 
however on the G5RV SWR is through the roof. Keep in mind I have an MJF Multi 
Port Antenna switch and have my MFJ Antenna Analyzer on a transmitter port and 
switch to it to match the antenna through my MN-2000 which feeds into my amp 
and meter. I can get a 1:1 match through the antenna tuner with the Analyzer, 
flip to one of two radios, my TR-4C, and 4Cw and keep the low SWR. Even my 
Yaesu FT-897D is happy with this configuration. When I switch to the T-4XC the 
SWR jumps to 5+ to 1!!! (Yes, I've checked the patch cables) Holy Smokes 
Batman!!! So into a dummy load it's happy, but when I move to a matched antenna 
it goes nuts. I can't even match the T-4XC direct using the tuner and way off 
where the analyzer first tuned the antenna.Any pointers would be greatly 
appreciated.Thanks guys, manny- wd5bjr___
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[Drakelist] T-4XC Transmitter Woes

2013-05-03 Thread James Bridgers
I have a Drake T-4XC transmitter with full output on 40 meters and zero output 
on all the other bands.  Anyone have any suggestions on where to start 
troubleshooting this problem?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rod N4BNO

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[Drakelist] T-4XC and AL-811 Amp

2013-02-11 Thread AStubbe
Hi Gang,

What is the best way to key a AL-811 amp with a T-4XC?
The amp requires an external ground to key.

Tnx for any suggestions,

73,
AL WA9IWS___
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC and AL-811 Amp

2013-02-11 Thread Gary Poland
The VOX RELAY jack on the AC-4

73, Gary

http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu

R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4 MN-2700 MN-4C MN-2000
UV-3 PS-3 TR-22C TR-33C AA-10 AC-10 MMK-22 TR-6
PRN1000
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC and AL-811 Amp

2013-02-11 Thread Robert Henry
Hi Al,  Agree with Gary,  There is a company that makes the small connector
for the AC4 application,  just surf T-4-XC sites.  Looks like an old small
xtal connector. Cheap, a few dollars.  Tnx,  Bob W3QJ

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 3:12 PM, astu...@cox.net wrote:

 **
 Hi Gang,

 What is the best way to key a AL-811 amp with a T-4XC?
 The amp requires an external ground to key.

 Tnx for any suggestions,

 73,
 AL WA9IWS

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[Drakelist] T-4XC loss of bias

2013-01-07 Thread wayne.smith
T-4XC recently refurbed by pro. Was working like new.  Suddenly cannot load
on any band over about 10 watts out.  Plate current limits out at 100
mils+/-.  thought it was PS, changed to different AC-4, same results.
Swapped finals and driver tubes. Same result.  Looking for pointers on where
to start my search.  Think a component in the PA has failed.  Have not
started diagnosis.  Will be doing resistance and voltage checks per manual.
Any and All  ideas accepted!

 

73,

Wayne

k5FEX

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[Drakelist] t-4xc help…all is ok now!

2012-12-14 Thread Paolo Emanuelli IK1QHB
Thanks folks

The problem was low power on 15m band (80w) and heavy difference between 
separate rcvr xmtr mode (more low power (60-70w)...

Have tuned the RF trimmer on the left side of the chassis... and now the power 
is more or less 130w on every position and exactly the same...130w

I'm very very happy!

Next step forced air with fan for the final tubes...

Paul IK1QHB
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[Drakelist] t-4xc HELP!!!

2012-12-12 Thread Paolo Emanuelli IK1QHB
HI folks

I've in the shack now a wonderful T-4XC totally restored...by me.
After a week of work on the chassis all seems to be ok ...there's only a 
problem on 15m band.
On every band the power is ok (150w on 80m since 120w in 10m) but on 15 meter 
not more than 85w on separate, 50w on rcvr and 65 on xmtr mode...
The band switch is ok after a hard work and a bit of patience! 
I'm waiting for a deoxit d100 from USA, but i'm not sure the problem is on the 
band switch or on the transceive switch... it could be some other problem of RF 
tune stage?
On other band i was able to obtain same power both separate and rcvr/xmtr... 
(never been before restoration of the bands witch).
Can somebody help me to obtain full power also on 15m band?

Many thanks

Paul IK1QHB

Please Reply also at : ik1...@fastwebnet.it


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[Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay

2012-04-01 Thread Paul
I recently acquired a  parts unit T4XClooks to good to be a 
parts rig so I am going to make an attempt at saving it.

Somewhere along the line someone hijacked the T/R relay.
Is the relay for a TR7 the same relay,or is it a different part number?
I have one in the junkbox,but want to make certain before I plug it in  
possibly smoke something in the T4XC by putting in wrong relay


Thanks
Paul

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay

2012-04-01 Thread Steve Wedge

Paul -

I don't think they're interchangeable, but I'm somewhat surprised that I 
can't find any information about the relay in either the T-4X manual or 
Garey's CD.  I might just be tired.


The coil of that relay goes from the +250V supply to plate of the VOX 
control tube V10.  It may need to drop a fair amount of voltage across that 
coil.  I've also heard of some folks modifying the circuit so that they can 
use a relay with a lower-voltage coil.


73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: Paul draked...@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 5:18 PM
To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay

I recently acquired a  parts unit T4XClooks to good to be a 
parts rig so I am going to make an attempt at saving it.

Somewhere along the line someone hijacked the T/R relay.
Is the relay for a TR7 the same relay,or is it a different part number?
I have one in the junkbox,but want to make certain before I plug it in  
possibly smoke something in the T4XC by putting in wrong relay


Thanks
Paul

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay

2012-04-01 Thread Al Parker

Hi Paul,
	Garey must have gone out for a long supper.  Here's what he said about 
5 yrs ago:


GAREY - K4OAH k4...@mindspring.com made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

Check your old relay.  If it is a 15k ohm coil, you'll need to add a 
1.5k, 1/2W resistor in series with the coil to replace it with the PB 
R10-E1Y4-V2.5K relay available from Mouser, Digi-Key and others.  The 
15k relays were unreliable because of the very fine wire required to get 
the high impedance.  The wire broke either at the terminals from 
corrosion or inside the coil from temperature excursions.  The 
replacement is very reliable.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake 2-B, 4B  C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
--
	Since you don't have your old relay, maybe you should add a 15k res.  
see if it works.  But maybe with your T-4XC it's late enough that the 
replacement would have gone in at the factory.  Butt  -- Garey's old 
response did have T-4XC in the subject.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay

2012-04-01 Thread Garey Barrell

Paul, Al and others -

The resistor is a 1.5k, (1W is better).  I don't know when Drake specifically changed over, but if 
your T-4XC doesn't already have the resistor between Pins 6 and 9 of V10, you need to add it.  See 
attached sheet from the CD.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Al Parker wrote:

Hi Paul,
Garey must have gone out for a long supper.  Here's what he said about 5 
yrs ago:

GAREY - K4OAH k4...@mindspring.com made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

Check your old relay.  If it is a 15k ohm coil, you'll need to add a 1.5k, 1/2W resistor in series 
with the coil to replace it with the PB R10-E1Y4-V2.5K relay available from Mouser, Digi-Key and 
others.  The 15k relays were unreliable because of the very fine wire required to get the high 
impedance.  The wire broke either at the terminals from corrosion or inside the coil from 
temperature excursions.  The replacement is very reliable.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

--
Since you don't have your old relay, maybe you should add a 15k res.  see if it works.  But 
maybe with your T-4XC it's late enough that the replacement would have gone in at the factory.  
Butt  -- Garey's old response did have T-4XC in the subject.




T-4XC Relay Replacement.pdf
Description: acrobat/pdf
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[Drakelist] T-4XC alignment question

2012-02-11 Thread kc9cdt

OK, decided today to align my T-4XC.

According to the manual, RF  Mixer stage trimmer alignment 
sectionthe T5  T4 need to be de-tuned before peaking the front 2 
trimmers.


Is this really neccessary? or can I just peak for max drive on all 
trimmers??

If I remmeber correctly that is what I did before with good success.
Thanks,
73,
Lee


 


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[Drakelist] T-4Xc alignment...another ?

2012-02-11 Thread kc9cdt
OK, discovered something else...looks like Drake aligned the tuning 
rack based on a RED DOT coils form set.

The brown glyptol is intact.
But, My coils do not have any dots on them...did they go away? Or did 
Drake change the way they did this?


I really don't want to touch them as they are all the same.and with 
pre-selector far CCW on 0...they are at 39/64 (RED DOT setting??)


Thanks,
73,
Lee


 


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4Xc alignment...another ?

2012-02-11 Thread Garey Barrell

Lee -

I assume you mean 3/64.  It's also possible that someone has been 'fixing' the pointer adjustment 
too!! I would NOT change anything and just go with where they are.


I've seen them with 'red' on the top of the core and on the bottom of the core.  I don't know what 
criteria were involved to make them a red dot or ...  Possibly core lots?   If it tunes up ok I 
wouldn't worry about it.  Only thing I can think of would be an inability to reach the high end of 
10M, or the low end of 160M.  I have had to fudge a bit on 10m to avoid having the trimmer adjuster 
screw fall out!  Suggest you put a drop of nail polish on the 10M screws, or they might change when 
you turn the radio on its' side!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


kc9...@aol.com wrote:
OK, discovered something else...looks like Drake aligned the tuning rack based on a RED DOT coils 
form set.

The brown glyptol is intact.
But, My coils do not have any dots on them...did they go away? Or did Drake change the way they 
did this?


I really don't want to touch them as they are all the same.and with pre-selector far CCW on 
0...they are at 39/64 (RED DOT setting??)


Thanks,
73,
Lee




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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-11-01 Thread Robert Fish

Hi Guys,
I have good news to report. I have the PTO back in the T-4XC and it is 
working fine. It turned out to be the hardened grease in the PTO ball 
bearings causing the chirp and warbling after all. It didn't seem to be 
a plausible cause to me for the symptoms I was experiencing. But before 
I started changing parts out, I decided to clean the ball bearings and 
the drive screw and it did the trick. AS for the PTO not working after I 
reinstalled it into the transmitter, it turned out to be an intermitant 
connection on the center tap of the PTO coil. Gary told me to check it. 
Visually it looked OK, but when I pressed on the connection, the 
oscillator came alive on the scope screen. Gary is amazing he can repair 
radios from thousands of miles away. So I cleaned up the connection and 
reflowed it. It is back in the T-4XC and working great now.


In fact, right after I got everything back together I heard ZK2V on 10 
meters running split. A perfect opportunity to test the Transmitter PTO. 
He was calling for just EU for a while, but when he asked for USA I 
started calling 3kc up. I got him on the 3rd or 4th call. That's a new 
one for me. Niue, I think it is an island down in the south Pacific 
somewhere. Not very difficult for me on the west coast but, stil a good 
test for the PTO. This was only 15 or 20 minutes ago, he is still there 
on 28011 if your interested.


Anyway that's the end of this adventure. You guys will hear from me 
again next time I break something.


73,

Bob  K6GGO


Hi Guys,
Here is an update on my T-4XC PTO adventure. I eventually removed the 
PTO from the transmitter and put it in a panavise on my bench, powered 
it up and listened to it on my TR-7 with a sniffer wire. While 
monitoring the tone, I tapped on the rod that carries the ferrite 
slug. It would make the frequency change and stay on the new frequency 
every time I tapped it. As an experiment, I opened up the R-4C and 
tapped on the end of the slug shaft on it. On the R-4C, the frequency 
would change but always return to the original freq. To make a long 
story short, I found hardened grease in the ball bearing races. I 
cleaned the ball bearings, races and the drive screw with denatured 
alcohol. The frequency returns to the same tone now every time I tap 
it and the warbling is gone when I turn the knob. I was and am 
convinced I fixed the problem.


Here is the part where Murphy rears his ugly head. I put the PTO back 
together and reinstalled it in the T-4XC and 
presto!!what? dead silence. I used the PTO to control 
the R-4C still dead silence. I checked power and ground it looks 
fine but still, nary an oscillation from the PTO. So I unsoldered the 
wires and hauled it's sorry a?!%#$  back onto the bench. Powered it up 
and still nothing.
Obviously, I hosed it somehow during the re-install. I looked for a 
solder problem around the output terminal it looked ok, but there were 
a couple of strands of wire from the old connection that the solder 
sucker (me) missed, but they weren't touching anything. Maybe they 
were touching something when it was installed, I don't know.


At any rate, its dead now and I suspect a semiconductor. here are my 
questions: (about time eh?)


I have the diodes in stock but not the FET or the buffer transistor. 
If I have to make a Digikey (or Mouser)  order anyway, maybe I should 
just shot gun the thing and put in all new parts except the coils.
I also have a PTO from a parts rig that has issues. I would like to 
rebuild it as well. Will I get into problems with tolerance stackups? 
I suspect that is why there are select at test caps in there.


Can I replace the coax that goes from the PTO output to the wafer 
switch with RG-174? (to give myself a small service loop, to make the 
re-install easier)


If it turns out to be a cap, or if I shotgun it, is there a modern 
replacement for those horseshoe caps?


Is there anything special about the temperature compensating caps, 
like a backwards temp coefficient for bucking freq drift or something? 
Is there an easy replacement for those?


Sorry for the long post about my epic struggle against the evil Murphy.
If the 49ers hadn't won, it truly would have been a lost weekend.

Thanks as always,

Bob  K6GGO



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-11-01 Thread Steve Wedge
I sometimes have to remind myself: Occam's Razor is my friend.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: Robert Fish 
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 3:22 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps


Hi Guys,
I have good news to report. I have the PTO back in the T-4XC and it is working 
fine. It turned out to be the hardened grease in the PTO ball bearings causing 
the chirp and warbling after all. It didn't seem to be a plausible cause to me 
for the symptoms I was experiencing. But before I started changing parts out, I 
decided to clean the ball bearings and the drive screw and it did the trick. AS 
for the PTO not working after I reinstalled it into the transmitter, it turned 
out to be an intermitant connection on the center tap of the PTO coil. Gary 
told me to check it. Visually it looked OK, but when I pressed on the 
connection, the oscillator came alive on the scope screen. Gary is amazing he 
can repair radios from thousands of miles away. So I cleaned up the connection 
and reflowed it. It is back in the T-4XC and working great now.

In fact, right after I got everything back together I heard ZK2V on 10 meters 
running split. A perfect opportunity to test the Transmitter PTO. He was 
calling for just EU for a while, but when he asked for USA I started calling 
3kc up. I got him on the 3rd or 4th call. That's a new one for me. Niue, I 
think it is an island down in the south Pacific somewhere. Not very difficult 
for me on the west coast but, stil a good test for the PTO. This was only 15 or 
20 minutes ago, he is still there on 28011 if your interested.

Anyway that's the end of this adventure. You guys will hear from me again next 
time I break something.

73,

Bob  K6GGO


  Hi Guys,
  Here is an update on my T-4XC PTO adventure. I eventually removed the PTO 
from the transmitter and put it in a panavise on my bench, powered it up and 
listened to it on my TR-7 with a sniffer wire. While monitoring the tone, I 
tapped on the rod that carries the ferrite slug. It would make the frequency 
change and stay on the new frequency every time I tapped it. As an experiment, 
I opened up the R-4C and tapped on the end of the slug shaft on it. On the 
R-4C, the frequency would change but always return to the original freq. To 
make a long story short, I found hardened grease in the ball bearing races. I 
cleaned the ball bearings, races and the drive screw with denatured alcohol. 
The frequency returns to the same tone now every time I tap it and the warbling 
is gone when I turn the knob. I was and am convinced I fixed the problem.

  Here is the part where Murphy rears his ugly head. I put the PTO back 
together and reinstalled it in the T-4XC and presto!!what? dead 
silence. I used the PTO to control the R-4C still dead silence. I checked 
power and ground it looks fine but still, nary an oscillation from the PTO. So 
I unsoldered the wires and hauled it's sorry a?!%#$  back onto the bench. 
Powered it up and still nothing.
  Obviously, I hosed it somehow during the re-install. I looked for a solder 
problem around the output terminal it looked ok, but there were a couple of 
strands of wire from the old connection that the solder sucker (me) missed, but 
they weren't touching anything. Maybe they were touching something when it was 
installed, I don't know.

  At any rate, its dead now and I suspect a semiconductor. here are my 
questions: (about time eh?)

  I have the diodes in stock but not the FET or the buffer transistor. If I 
have to make a Digikey (or Mouser)  order anyway, maybe I should just shot gun 
the thing and put in all new parts except the coils.
  I also have a PTO from a parts rig that has issues. I would like to rebuild 
it as well. Will I get into problems with tolerance stackups? I suspect that is 
why there are select at test caps in there. 

  Can I replace the coax that goes from the PTO output to the wafer switch with 
RG-174? (to give myself a small service loop, to make the re-install easier)

  If it turns out to be a cap, or if I shotgun it, is there a modern 
replacement for those horseshoe caps?

  Is there anything special about the temperature compensating caps, like a 
backwards temp coefficient for bucking freq drift or something? Is there an 
easy replacement for those?

  Sorry for the long post about my epic struggle against the evil Murphy.
  If the 49ers hadn't won, it truly would have been a lost weekend.

  Thanks as always,

  Bob  K6GGO









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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-31 Thread Robert Fish

I meant Dogbone caps, not horseshoe. Sheesh.


Hi Guys,
Here is an update on my T-4XC PTO adventure. I eventually removed the 
PTO from the transmitter and put it in a panavise on my bench, powered 
it up and listened to it on my TR-7 with a sniffer wire. While 
monitoring the tone, I tapped on the rod that carries the ferrite 
slug. It would make the frequency change and stay on the new frequency 
every time I tapped it. As an experiment, I opened up the R-4C and 
tapped on the end of the slug shaft on it. On the R-4C, the frequency 
would change but always return to the original freq. To make a long 
story short, I found hardened grease in the ball bearing races. I 
cleaned the ball bearings, races and the drive screw with denatured 
alcohol. The frequency returns to the same tone now every time I tap 
it and the warbling is gone when I turn the knob. I was and am 
convinced I fixed the problem.


Here is the part where Murphy rears his ugly head. I put the PTO back 
together and reinstalled it in the T-4XC and 
presto!!what? dead silence. I used the PTO to control 
the R-4C still dead silence. I checked power and ground it looks 
fine but still, nary an oscillation from the PTO. So I unsoldered the 
wires and hauled it's sorry a?!%#$  back onto the bench. Powered it up 
and still nothing.
Obviously, I hosed it somehow during the re-install. I looked for a 
solder problem around the output terminal it looked ok, but there were 
a couple of strands of wire from the old connection that the solder 
sucker (me) missed, but they weren't touching anything. Maybe they 
were touching something when it was installed, I don't know.


At any rate, its dead now and I suspect a semiconductor. here are my 
questions: (about time eh?)


I have the diodes in stock but not the FET or the buffer transistor. 
If I have to make a Digikey (or Mouser)  order anyway, maybe I should 
just shot gun the thing and put in all new parts except the coils.
I also have a PTO from a parts rig that has issues. I would like to 
rebuild it as well. Will I get into problems with tolerance stackups? 
I suspect that is why there are select at test caps in there.


Can I replace the coax that goes from the PTO output to the wafer 
switch with RG-174? (to give myself a small service loop, to make the 
re-install easier)


If it turns out to be a cap, or if I shotgun it, is there a modern 
replacement for those horseshoe caps?


Is there anything special about the temperature compensating caps, 
like a backwards temp coefficient for bucking freq drift or something? 
Is there an easy replacement for those?


Sorry for the long post about my epic struggle against the evil Murphy.
If the 49ers hadn't won, it truly would have been a lost weekend.

Thanks as always,

Bob  K6GGO



Garey, Eddy, Paul, Curt and Steve,
Thanks for the quick replies guys. This is a great bunch on this 
list. I am convinced that it is the PTO. If I lightly tap on the PTO 
can with a pencil tip (and I mean very lightly) it causes the signal 
to jump around. Maybe just a cold solder joint.  I have a parts radio 
(T-4XC) with a PTO in it. I guess I'll haul it out and test it. If 
it's stable, I will swap it with the faulty one. Can I then rebuild 
(shotgun) the bad PTO with all new parts? or is there special parts 
in there that I have to be careful with? I probably have most of the 
stuff in stock (NPO caps, metal film resistors etc.). It would be 
handy to have a nice new spare because I also have a B-Line. Also,  A 
5Mhz PTO is a nice thing to have around, homebrew QRP rigs etc.


I have a HP signal generator, so I think I will try Paul's suggestion 
on the Lissajous display. Perhaps I can find the faulty component 
with some freeze spray and make this a quick repair. Maybe learn 
something in the process (heaven forbid).


I wrote this e-mail in three sittings as real life keeps intervening. 
The bottom line is, thanks for all the help, I will let you know how 
I proceed and the results thereof.


73,

Bob  K6GGO



On 2011-10-26, at 1:16 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal 
of the front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the 
fiducial window.  Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take 
off the red line!

*/
/*
*/Hi Guys,/*

Well, I can not vouch for the A  B series, but in my T-4X 
transmitter /that/extensive a dis-aasembly is most assuredly 
*/NOT/*required...


After removing the three tubes immediately behind the PTO can, the 
can itself is extricated by first dis-connecting the top grounding 
spring,  then lightly squeezing together the side prongs that 
hold the can in place, one prong at a time (this is by far the 
/WORSE/part of the operation, and the most time-consuming).


The can is slipped off the assembly, rearward (where the 3 tubes were).

Next, with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, each brass spacer that 
you see at the front of the vertical PTO board is 

[Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Robert Fish

Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use 
the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a chirpy, 
jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have been 
using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to work 
them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what my 
signal sounds like.


I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably 
the PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, I 
got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it was 
controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I have 
a composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So then I 
looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear a 
cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while I'm 
looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping around 
stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.


What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like 
the only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I could 
find some evidence of the problem
I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error (probably 
is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got called to 
dinner and a man has to have priorities.


I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.


Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I get 
a warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when tuning in 
the T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes 
back to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)


Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.


Bob  K6GGO


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Curt

Hi Bob:

Not sure you could see a slight frequency shift of a few hertz with a 
scope.  Unless it was accompanied by an amplitude abberation.


Does the PTO in question have the ground jumper braid to the shaft slider?

See the WB4 HFN site for info on this if not.

Curt


On 10/26/2011 9:32 AM, Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use 
the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a 
chirpy, jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have 
been using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to 
work them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what 
my signal sounds like.


I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably 
the PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery 
lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, 
I got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it 
was controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I 
have a composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So 
then I looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear 
a cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while 
I'm looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping 
around stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.


What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like 
the only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I 
could find some evidence of the problem
I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error 
(probably is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got 
called to dinner and a man has to have priorities.


I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.


Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I 
get a warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when 
tuning in the T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes 
back to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)


Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.


Bob  K6GGO


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Eddy Swynar
Hi Bob,

Don't even START me on this topic!!!: )

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ



*



On 2011-10-26, at 10:32 AM, Robert Fish wrote:

 Hi Guys,
 
 I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use the 
 R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
 When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a chirpy, 
 jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
 work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have been 
 using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
 running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to work 
 them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what my signal 
 sounds like.
 
 I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably the PTO 
 and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery lately.
 I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, I got 
 out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it was 
 controlling the R-4C.
 It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I have a 
 composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So then I looked 
 at the injection signal
 right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear a cw 
 signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while I'm looking 
 at a rock solid injection sig
 leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping around 
 stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.
 
 What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like the 
 only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I could find some 
 evidence of the problem
 I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error (probably is) 
 I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got called to dinner and 
 a man has to have priorities.
 
 I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the problem, 
 but maybe you guys can save me some time.
 
 Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I get a 
 warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when tuning in the 
 T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
 sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes back 
 to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)
 
 Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.
 
 
 Bob  K6GGO
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Robert Fish
I know Eddy, I was going to mention your recent adventures in my opening 
post.
Does it sound like the same issue your PTO had? yours was in a R-4 or 
R-4A as I recall, not that it matters.
There was something about a dogbone cap in the PTO. Maybe I should go 
back and read that thread, eh?


Bob K6GGO


*/Hi Bob,/*

Don't even /START/me on this topic!!! * : )*

*/~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/*



*



On 2011-10-26, at 10:32 AM, Robert Fish wrote:


Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I 
use the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a 
chirpy, jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have 
been using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to 
work them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows 
what my signal sounds like.


I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably 
the PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery 
lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, 
I got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it 
was controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I 
have a composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So 
then I looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear 
a cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while 
I'm looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping 
around stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.


What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems 
like the only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If 
I could find some evidence of the problem
I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error 
(probably is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got 
called to dinner and a man has to have priorities.


I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.


Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I 
get a warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when 
tuning in the T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then 
goes back to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)


Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.


Bob  K6GGO


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Eddy Swynar
Hi Bob,

My PTO is from a T-4X transmitter...

My most recent fix to it was the complete replacement of all of the frequency 
determining capacitors in it (the bad solder joints were all dispatched 
earlier, one by one). I recently took to monitoring the actual PTO signal on a 
separate general coverage receiver, as well as the final spot signal on 
another: in BOTH cases the frequency will jump, indicating that the fault lies 
within the PTO itself.

The latest incantation happens like this: both signals sound great for a long 
time---but then suddenly they will rise EVER so slowly. And then, pop! It'll go 
right back to the original frequency. This will go on for upwards of a half 
hour, or so, and then very suddenly, bang---both frequencies will go (or down) 
almost 2-KHz.

My attention to the thing has been temporarily diverted by other things, but I 
have the PTO out of its mounting,  have ID'ed all of the resistors that are 
part of the PTO oscillator transistor itself. I am hoping to replace ALL of 
these resistors with factory fresh new ones, going on the assumption that these 
rascals are (ONE of them, anyway) is changing under load ever so slightly, 
enough to affect some critical voltage in the stage, screwing-up the 
stability...

Gosh, I've tried just about everything else...!

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ


*



On 2011-10-26, at 11:48 AM, Robert Fish wrote:

 I know Eddy, I was going to mention your recent adventures in my opening 
 post. 
 Does it sound like the same issue your PTO had? yours was in a R-4 or R-4A as 
 I recall, not that it matters.
 There was something about a dogbone cap in the PTO. Maybe I should go back 
 and read that thread, eh?
 
 Bob K6GGO
 
 Hi Bob,
 
 Don't even START me on this topic!!!: )
 
 ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
 
 
 
 *
 
 
 
 On 2011-10-26, at 10:32 AM, Robert Fish wrote:
 
 Hi Guys,
 
 I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use the 
 R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
 When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a chirpy, 
 jumping around of the cw signal I am   trying to copy. Both 
 units
 work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have been 
 using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
 running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to work 
 them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what my signal 
 sounds like.
 
 I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably the 
 PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery lately.
 I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, I got 
 out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it was 
 controlling the R-4C.
 It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I have a 
 composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So then I 
 looked at the injection signal
 right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear a cw 
 signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while I'm looking 
 at a rock solid injection sig
 leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping around 
 stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.
 
 What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like the 
 only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I could find 
 some evidence of the problem
 I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error (probably 
 is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got called to 
 dinner and a man has to have priorities.
 
 I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
 problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.
 
 Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I get a 
 warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when tuning in the 
 T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
 sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes back 
 to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)
 
 Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.
 
 
 Bob  K6GGO
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Garey Barrell

Bob -

You would not be able to see a few tens of Hertz change on a scope.  The 
warbling of the calibrator signal is often a power supply thing, C179 on 
the Calibrator board.  Since it's intermittent, it's more likely a bad 
ground, I'd suggest 'exercising' the Calibrator plug by moving the board 
up and down a bit.   DeoxIT on the connector pins wouldn't hurt.


There are two primary causes for PTO instability.  One has been going on 
for years, which is the intermittent grounding of the PTO slug and drive 
screw.  The grounding path(s) are through the drive follower riding on 
the chrome rider bar at the top of the gearbox, and the ball bearings in 
the front plate.  Hardened grease forms little 'chunks' that break the 
path through the ball bearings, causing frequency jitter when tuned.  
Usually not a problem when tuning is stopped.  Drake offered a 'fix' of 
a small piece of wire braid soldered from the drive follower to the side 
wall of the gearbox.  The field change is on the CD in the MISC directory.


The second cause seems to be happening more often lately,  and is the 
breakdown of one or more of the capacitors in the frequency determining 
circuit of the PTO.  There are a couple of 'common' culprits, depending 
upon which of the 17 versions of PTO that you have.  You should be able 
to see the jitter on a counter, the changes are tens of Hz if you can 
hear them.  Freeze spray can help to isolate the defective cap(s), but 
not always.  In the C-Line PTO C157 and/or C203, which may be either two 
45 pF NP0 tubular ceramic caps or a single 90 pF is the most common 
troublemaker.  It's best to measure the value of the existing cap and 
then choose a replacement as close as possible.  C158 and C159 are 
selected at test to compensate for variations of C157 for linearity, and 
if you select C157 accurately linearity doesn't seem to be impacted.


Less likely causes are a bad FET transistor Q8, or a bad Zener diode 
CR6.  I have seen one case of a leaky C151.


The trials and tribulations of PTO repair are in the archives about a 
month ago on this list and on DrakeRadio.


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use 
the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a 
chirpy, jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have 
been using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to 
work them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what 
my signal sounds like.


I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably 
the PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery 
lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, 
I got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it 
was controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I 
have a composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So 
then I looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear 
a cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while 
I'm looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping 
around stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.


What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like 
the only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I 
could find some evidence of the problem
I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error 
(probably is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got 
called to dinner and a man has to have priorities.


I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.


Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I 
get a warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when 
tuning in the T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes 
back to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)


Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.


Bob  K6GGO



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)

2011-10-26 Thread Paul Christensen

You would not be able to see a few tens of Hertz change on a scope.


One method of observing small changes in frequency (and phase) is to utilize 
the X-Y function on a scope to display a Lissajous pattern.  I have no doubt 
Garey has done this in the past.  For others, one simply takes a 
known-stable RF generator and feed it into Channel 1 of the scope.  The PTO 
output is fed into Channel 2.  The scope time base is set to X-Y mode.


Next, the stable generator amplitude can be set to approximately equal that 
of the PTO.  Amplitude equality does not have to be very precise.  As 
frequency changes, so will phase.  Two in phase and on-frequency signals 
will show on the scope's displays as a straight 45 degree line.  As the PTO 
changes frequency, the line will turn into an oblong loop and continuing 
further, a perfect circle at 90 degrees of phase difference, then it will 
show as a straight line again but at the 135 and 315 degree points on the 
scope's display.


With the Lissajous method, even the slightest change in frequency between 
two sources can be displayed on a scope.


Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com

To: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)



Bob -

You would not be able to see a few tens of Hertz change on a scope.  The 
warbling of the calibrator signal is often a power supply thing, C179 on 
the Calibrator board.  Since it's intermittent, it's more likely a bad 
ground, I'd suggest 'exercising' the Calibrator plug by moving the board 
up and down a bit.   DeoxIT on the connector pins wouldn't hurt.


There are two primary causes for PTO instability.  One has been going on 
for years, which is the intermittent grounding of the PTO slug and drive 
screw.  The grounding path(s) are through the drive follower riding on the 
chrome rider bar at the top of the gearbox, and the ball bearings in the 
front plate.  Hardened grease forms little 'chunks' that break the path 
through the ball bearings, causing frequency jitter when tuned.  Usually 
not a problem when tuning is stopped.  Drake offered a 'fix' of a small 
piece of wire braid soldered from the drive follower to the side wall of 
the gearbox.  The field change is on the CD in the MISC directory.


The second cause seems to be happening more often lately,  and is the 
breakdown of one or more of the capacitors in the frequency determining 
circuit of the PTO.  There are a couple of 'common' culprits, depending 
upon which of the 17 versions of PTO that you have.  You should be able to 
see the jitter on a counter, the changes are tens of Hz if you can hear 
them.  Freeze spray can help to isolate the defective cap(s), but not 
always.  In the C-Line PTO C157 and/or C203, which may be either two 45 pF 
NP0 tubular ceramic caps or a single 90 pF is the most common 
troublemaker.  It's best to measure the value of the existing cap and then 
choose a replacement as close as possible.  C158 and C159 are selected at 
test to compensate for variations of C157 for linearity, and if you select 
C157 accurately linearity doesn't seem to be impacted.


Less likely causes are a bad FET transistor Q8, or a bad Zener diode CR6. 
I have seen one case of a leaky C151.


The trials and tribulations of PTO repair are in the archives about a 
month ago on this list and on DrakeRadio.


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use 
the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a chirpy, 
jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have been 
using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to work 
them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what my 
signal sounds like.


I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably the 
PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, I 
got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it was 
controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I have a 
composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So then I 
looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear a 
cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while I'm 
looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping around 
stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability

[Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-26 Thread Steve Wedge
Bob - 

Don't be surprised that you don't see anything on the scope trace when viewing 
a chirpy PTO signal.  10 Hz or even a few tens of Hz will likely not be visible 
on an oscilloscope as it represents a fraction of a percent of the frequency 
involved.

The usual things to check first are:
is the yoke grounded? (I believe there is a strap on the C-Line, IIRC);
Is your regulated voltage to the PTO holding solid?

IMO, if both of the above are okay, you may be looking at what Garey and I 
found wrong with my R-4A a while back - a bad silver-mica capacitor in the 
resonant circuit.  The one that went bad in mine wasn't a typical-looking part, 
but a tubular one with color-coding.  In the bipolar PTO, its value was about 
92 pF - check your schematic.  It will be the one that's in direct parallel 
with the coil.

Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal of the 
front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the fiducial window.  
Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take off the red line!

Let us know how you make out.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 07:32:16 -0700
From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Unstable PTO (I think)
Message-ID: 4ea819f0.4020...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi Guys,

I have been ignoring an issue with my T-4XC until recently. When I use 
the R-4C PTO to control the receiver it seems to work fine.
When I use the T-4XC PTO to control the receiver I get sort of a chirpy, 
jumping around of the cw signal I am trying to copy. Both units
work fine in transceive using the R-4C PTO, which is the way I have been 
using them. But with the recent DX expeditions (T32C, TX7M)
running split, I have been having to use the C-line as separates to work 
them. I have had some success working them, but heaven knows what my 
signal sounds like.

I have been putting off fixing this problem as I felt it was probably 
the PTO and I haven't been in the mood for performing major surgery lately.
I decided to get off my arse and do something about it yesterday. So, I 
got out the scope and took a look at the T-4XC PTO output while it was 
controlling the R-4C.
It seems stable. So I looked at the Plate of V-8 with the scope, I have 
a composite signal (PTO, Xtal Osc.) it looks solid as a rock. So then I 
looked at the injection signal
right at the jack on the back of the T-4XC and once again, I can hear a 
cw signal I tuned in on the R-4C jumping all over the place, while I'm 
looking at a rock solid injection sig
leaving the T-4XC. I switch back to the R-4C PTO and the jumping around 
stops, the receiver copies the same cw sig with stability.

What am I missing here? It is hard to fix something when it seems like 
the only evidence of a problem is coming out of the speaker. If I could 
find some evidence of the problem
I could follow it to it's source. This could be operator error (probably 
is) I only put about an hour in to this last night as I got called to 
dinner and a man has to have priorities.

I am going to dig in to it this morning, I will eventually find the 
problem, but maybe you guys can save me some time.

Ohanother clue: When I use the spot function, in CW mode, I get 
a warbling sound in the R-4C instead of a solid cw tone when tuning in 
the T-4XC sig with the receiver. It seems
sort of intermittant (it switches to a cw tone sometimes and then goes 
back to warbling like you get in SSB mode with the spot function.)

Thanks in advance, I hope this long winded post made sense.


Bob  K6GGO

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-26 Thread Eddy Swynar

On 2011-10-26, at 1:16 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

  
 Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal of the 
 front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the fiducial window. 
  Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take off the red line!
  

Hi Guys,

Well, I can not vouch for the A  B series, but in my T-4X transmitter that 
extensive a dis-aasembly is most assuredly NOT required...

After removing the three tubes immediately behind the PTO can, the can itself 
is extricated by first dis-connecting the top grounding spring,  then lightly 
squeezing together the side prongs that hold the can in place, one prong at a 
time (this is by far the WORSE part of the operation, and the most 
time-consuming).

The can is slipped off the assembly, rearward (where the 3 tubes were). 

Next, with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, each brass spacer that you see at 
the front of the vertical PTO board is grasped (so the spacers won't fall  get 
lost), and a slotted screw driver is used to unscrew the 4 screws that go 
through them. The PTO board  coil assembly is now loose, save for the 3 wires 
that are attached to the front vertical board: draw a simple sketch showing 
where these are connected so that you'll remember when you re-assemble 
everything, then touch each point on the board with a soldering iron to release 
each wire...

The entire assembly is then slipped back off of the brass rod with the ferrite 
slugs on it.

Absolutely no need to remove the front panel, no need for anything that 
complicated, or involved... 

To re-assemble, simply reverse this procedure! Hi Hi

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-26 Thread Robert Fish

Garey, Eddy, Paul, Curt and Steve,
Thanks for the quick replies guys. This is a great bunch on this list. I 
am convinced that it is the PTO. If I lightly tap on the PTO can with a 
pencil tip (and I mean very lightly) it causes the signal to jump 
around. Maybe just a cold solder joint.  I have a parts radio (T-4XC) 
with a PTO in it. I guess I'll haul it out and test it. If it's stable, 
I will swap it with the faulty one. Can I then rebuild (shotgun) the bad 
PTO with all new parts? or is there special parts in there that I have 
to be careful with? I probably have most of the stuff in stock (NPO 
caps, metal film resistors etc.). It would be handy to have a nice new 
spare because I also have a B-Line. Also,  A 5Mhz PTO is a nice thing to 
have around, homebrew QRP rigs etc.


I have a HP signal generator, so I think I will try Paul's suggestion on 
the Lissajous display. Perhaps I can find the faulty component with some 
freeze spray and make this a quick repair. Maybe learn something in the 
process (heaven forbid).


I wrote this e-mail in three sittings as real life keeps intervening. 
The bottom line is, thanks for all the help, I will let you know how I 
proceed and the results thereof.


73,

Bob  K6GGO



On 2011-10-26, at 1:16 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal 
of the front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the 
fiducial window.  Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take 
off the red line!

*/
/*
*/Hi Guys,/*

Well, I can not vouch for the A  B series, but in my T-4X 
transmitter /that/extensive a dis-aasembly is most assuredly 
*/NOT/*required...


After removing the three tubes immediately behind the PTO can, the can 
itself is extricated by first dis-connecting the top grounding spring, 
 then lightly squeezing together the side prongs that hold the can 
in place, one prong at a time (this is by far the /WORSE/part of the 
operation, and the most time-consuming).


The can is slipped off the assembly, rearward (where the 3 tubes were).

Next, with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, each brass spacer that 
you see at the front of the vertical PTO board is grasped (so the 
spacers won't fall  get lost), and a slotted screw driver is used to 
unscrew the 4 screws that go through them. The PTO board  coil 
assembly is now loose, save for the 3 wires that are attached to the 
front vertical board: draw a simple sketch showing where these are 
connected so that you'll remember when you re-assemble everything, 
then touch each point on the board with a soldering iron to release 
each wire...


The entire assembly is then slipped back off of the brass rod with the 
ferrite slugs on it.


Absolutely /no need/to remove the front panel, no need for 
/anything/that complicated, or involved...


To re-assemble, simply reverse this procedure! Hi Hi

*/~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/*



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-26 Thread Steve Wedge
We all enjoy these rigs, Bob.

If it was me, I'd try one part at a time and hook it up to a regulated supply 
and a counter.  You can then log the frequency every time you walk by and see, 
over time, if changing the part fixed the problem.  I'd start with just the PTO 
before replacing anything.  Log what the counter is telling you any time you 
happen to look over at it.  Don't destroy any parts in case you find you've 
made matters worse so you can return to the zero point.


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Fish 
  To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 3:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps


  Garey, Eddy, Paul, Curt and Steve,
  Thanks for the quick replies guys. This is a great bunch on this list. I am 
convinced that it is the PTO. If I lightly tap on the PTO can with a pencil tip 
(and I mean very lightly) it causes the signal to jump around. Maybe just a 
cold solder joint.  I have a parts radio (T-4XC) with a PTO in it. I guess I'll 
haul it out and test it. If it's stable, I will swap it with the faulty one. 
Can I then rebuild (shotgun) the bad PTO with all new parts? or is there 
special parts in there that I have to be careful with? I probably have most of 
the stuff in stock (NPO caps, metal film resistors etc.). It would be handy to 
have a nice new spare because I also have a B-Line. Also,  A 5Mhz PTO is a nice 
thing to have around, homebrew QRP rigs etc.

  I have a HP signal generator, so I think I will try Paul's suggestion on the 
Lissajous display. Perhaps I can find the faulty component with some freeze 
spray and make this a quick repair. Maybe learn something in the process 
(heaven forbid).

  I wrote this e-mail in three sittings as real life keeps intervening. The 
bottom line is, thanks for all the help, I will let you know how I proceed and 
the results thereof.

  73,

  Bob  K6GGO




On 2011-10-26, at 1:16 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:



  Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal of 
the front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the fiducial 
window.  Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take off the red line!



Hi Guys,


Well, I can not vouch for the A  B series, but in my T-4X transmitter 
that extensive a dis-aasembly is most assuredly NOT required...


After removing the three tubes immediately behind the PTO can, the can 
itself is extricated by first dis-connecting the top grounding spring,  then 
lightly squeezing together the side prongs that hold the can in place, one 
prong at a time (this is by far the WORSE part of the operation, and the most 
time-consuming).


The can is slipped off the assembly, rearward (where the 3 tubes were). 


Next, with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, each brass spacer that you 
see at the front of the vertical PTO board is grasped (so the spacers won't 
fall  get lost), and a slotted screw driver is used to unscrew the 4 screws 
that go through them. The PTO board  coil assembly is now loose, save for the 
3 wires that are attached to the front vertical board: draw a simple sketch 
showing where these are connected so that you'll remember when you re-assemble 
everything, then touch each point on the board with a soldering iron to release 
each wire...


The entire assembly is then slipped back off of the brass rod with the 
ferrite slugs on it.


Absolutely no need to remove the front panel, no need for anything that 
complicated, or involved... 


To re-assemble, simply reverse this procedure! Hi Hi


~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ






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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps

2011-10-26 Thread Steve Wedge
You're right, Eddy.  I do prefer to remove the entire subassembly as it makes 
it much easier to work on.

I can RR the front panel in about 10 minutes, I'm so used to it...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eddy Swynar 
  To: Steve Wedge ; Bob Fish Fish 
  Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 2:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC PTO chirps




  On 2011-10-26, at 1:16 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:



Removing the PTO - at least with the A's and B's - requires removal of the 
front panel.  This is a good time to clean it as well as the fiducial window.  
Use only dish soap for the window or you'll take off the red line!



  Hi Guys,


  Well, I can not vouch for the A  B series, but in my T-4X transmitter 
that extensive a dis-aasembly is most assuredly NOT required...


  After removing the three tubes immediately behind the PTO can, the can itself 
is extricated by first dis-connecting the top grounding spring,  then lightly 
squeezing together the side prongs that hold the can in place, one prong at a 
time (this is by far the WORSE part of the operation, and the most 
time-consuming).


  The can is slipped off the assembly, rearward (where the 3 tubes were). 


  Next, with a pair of long needle-nose pliers, each brass spacer that you see 
at the front of the vertical PTO board is grasped (so the spacers won't fall  
get lost), and a slotted screw driver is used to unscrew the 4 screws that go 
through them. The PTO board  coil assembly is now loose, save for the 3 wires 
that are attached to the front vertical board: draw a simple sketch showing 
where these are connected so that you'll remember when you re-assemble 
everything, then touch each point on the board with a soldering iron to release 
each wire...


  The entire assembly is then slipped back off of the brass rod with the 
ferrite slugs on it.


  Absolutely no need to remove the front panel, no need for anything that 
complicated, or involved... 


  To re-assemble, simply reverse this procedure! Hi Hi


  ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

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[Drakelist] T-4XC schematic

2011-10-21 Thread Henry Foglesong
Can someone tell me where I can get a nice clean full size schematic for a 
Drake T-4XC that I can actually read?  I am willing to pay to have it copied 
and mailed.

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC schematic

2011-10-21 Thread Garey Barrell

Hank -

If you had my CD for the C-Line, you'd have a clean schematic of BOTH 
T-4XC Schematics, along with a lot of other stuff..


If you send me your s/n, I'll send you the correct schematic via 
attachment.  It will print out a 2' x 4' if you wish at a Kinko's or 
other large format printer, or any other size down to 8-1/2 x 11 (a 
little hard to read!)


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Henry Foglesong wrote:
Can someone tell me where I can get a nice clean full size schematic 
for a Drake T-4XC that I can actually read?  I am willing to pay to 
have it copied and mailed.

Hank


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[Drakelist] T-4XC Output Varies

2011-03-31 Thread Jim Bo

I had the same issue with mine.

Pout would start at 140 watts at initial 
key down, and drift down to 90 watts.


Rebuilt the AC-4 as the plate caps were 
leaking (could only see leak after 
removing tall lytics).


Did my own rebuild with  two 270 uf, 450 
volt caps that I had laying around.


Pout is now constant.  BTW, the rebuild 
also fixed a sidetone issue.


Look at B+ on AC-4 and see if it drifts 
down when you key, or just rebuild the 
psu for peace of mind.


Jim 



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Varies

2011-03-31 Thread Garey Barrell
I hope you also replaced at least the BIAS supply caps as 
well..  And preferably the LV supply caps too!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Jim Bo wrote:

I had the same issue with mine.

Pout would start at 140 watts at initial key down, and drift down to 
90 watts.


Rebuilt the AC-4 as the plate caps were leaking (could only see 
leak after removing tall lytics).


Did my own rebuild with  two 270 uf, 450 volt caps that I had laying 
around.


Pout is now constant.  BTW, the rebuild also fixed a sidetone issue.

Look at B+ on AC-4 and see if it drifts down when you key, or just 
rebuild the psu for peace of mind.


Jim



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-03-30 Thread cqdx160
Jim,

If you are still having output problems w/variation between sep/rcv/xmit, 
PLEASE try replacing the T4XC's 6EJ7 tube...you might be surprised with the 
results!

I had a problem vy similar to yours.  PLEASE let me know if it does the trick!

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[Drakelist] T-4XC Plate Current

2011-03-11 Thread Jim Bo

Is it normal for the T-4XC plate current to read 120 mA when:

1.  in CW mode
2.  Xmitter is keyed using mic line (no mic element connected, just foot 
switch).

I have adjusted the bias per the manual at the mark on the meter.

If not normal, any ideas as to what the issue may be?

Thanks

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[Drakelist] T-4XC on 160 Meters

2011-03-11 Thread Jim Bo
When tuning the T-4XC on 160 meters, into a dummy load, the load control is at 
zero or maximum capacitance.

I clearly do not get a peak in output power when changing the load control, the 
Pout continue to increase until I hit zero on the dial (max. cap).
The plate control clearly has a peak at 3 on the dial.

Comments??

Thanks

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Plate Current

2011-03-11 Thread Garey Barrell

Do you have a key plugged, and 'open'?

Will the current 'dip' with the PLATE control?

Is GAIN control at CCW?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Jim Bo wrote:

Is it normal for the T-4XC plate current to read 120 mA when:
1.  in CW mode
2.  Xmitter is keyed using mic line (no mic element connected, just 
foot switch).

I have adjusted the bias per the manual at the mark on the meter.
If not normal, any ideas as to what the issue may be?
Thanks
Jim


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[Drakelist] T-4XC load question

2011-03-06 Thread kc9cdt

Gang,
Well I had a ball this week end with the DX contestI used te Drake 
C lne most of the time!

Just like the old days. I did se the TT OII and Collins some too.

On (T-4XC) 80  40, when I tune up. When I advance the load control it 
is fine... peaks out then just (very slightly) after peak the power 
output goes to a few watts? I do know you are supposed to stop just 
before the peak.

Seems to be 80/40 and not 20/15/10.

Any ideas what's going on?

73,
Lee






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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC load question

2011-03-06 Thread kc9cdt

Ah HAH!

Yes, I think that was it...The load var cap was not shorting but, on 
the front section of the 3, in the mid range...it was very close. Maybe 
close enough to arc??


Anyways, I adjusted 3 different platesit to provide more clearance, 
and so far it is working OK
Thanks Garey!  I would not have thought of that,   it must have been 
that way a long time.

73,
Lee


Lee Simmonds
Summit DCS LLC
 
260-799-4077 Office
260-403-6936 Cell


-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Mar 6, 2011 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC load question


Lee -

Strange.  Do you have to advance the LOAD control further CW on 80/40
than you do on 20/15/10?  Sounds almost like a bent plate on the LOAD
capacitor!??!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


kc9...@aol.com wrote:

Gang,
Well I had a ball this week end with the DX contestI used te 

Drake

C lne most of the time!
Just like the old days. I did se the TT OII and Collins some too.

On (T-4XC) 80  40, when I tune up. When I advance the load control 

it

is fine... peaks out then just (very slightly) after peak the power
output goes to a few watts? I do know you are supposed to stop just
before the peak.
Seems to be 80/40 and not 20/15/10.

Any ideas what's going on?

73,
Lee




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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-03-01 Thread Garey Barrell

Jim -

It is normal for there to be a 'small' difference between power output 
and receiver sensitivity in the various TRANSCEIVE switch positions.


First, the INJ cable MUST be a low capacitance coax or mic cable.  Cable 
impedance, loss, shielding, etc. are NOT important, only the 
'capacitance per foot'.


The original cables were all 38 long, tip to tip.

Original Drake INJ and CAR OSC Cables = 19 pF/ft = .160 o.d. (foam poly)

RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240 o.d.
RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242 o.d.
RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270 o.d.
RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110 o.d.
Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 pf/ft = 0.160 o.d. (foam poly)
Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 pf/ft = 0.180 o.d. (foam poly)
R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 0.165 o.d. (poly)

The best choice is the Belden 8421 Audio cable from their Brilliance 
line.  It looks just like the other cables, and is very flexible.  The 
RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and far less flexible.  RG-62 is also 
prone to shorting if bent over too small a radius, and is susceptible to 
heat damage when soldering connectors.  The best feature of RG-62 is
that it is often FREE, since there have been many miles of it pulled out 
of old computer networks.  Belden 8421 has been available by the foot 
from someone on the list in the recent past.


The CAR OSC cable in the C-Line should be the same cable, although it 
isn't quite as critical.


The proper cables will minimize the difference, however it may still 
require a touch-up of the RF TUNE and GAIN controls as well as the 
PRESELECTOR control in the receiver.  Especially in CW, the GAIN control 
must be advanced further.  The ALC masks this in TUNE, but the GAIN 
control is more critical in CW.  It also helps to do the PreMixer 
alignment steps with the two cabled together using the correct cables.


It does sound like your GAIN control is on the low side.  Typically, on 
40M in TUNE, you should get full output (typically 130W, limited by ALC) 
before 12 o'clock.  CW shouldn't require more than about 1 o'clock for 
full output.  These are two different controls on the same shaft.  In 
TUNE one section is an AF gain control adjusting the level of a 1 kHz 
audio tone into the Balanced Modulator, similar to whistling into the 
microphone.  In CW, the other section controls a DC current applied to 
the diodes in the Balanced Modulator to un-balance it and allow the 
Carrier Oscillator to come through to be amplified and mixed to generate 
the CW signal.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Jim Bo wrote:
My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the 
transceive switch and in the CW Mode.

With transceive swith set on separate
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts
With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts
What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr 
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.
I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an 
alignment step for this.

Comments?
Thanks
Jim
   


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-03-01 Thread kc9cdt

Garey,
The cables I use for these 2 connections have a small metal clip on 
each end..

I think these are the ones Drake sold for that purpose??
73,
Lee


-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 10:32 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...


Jim -

It is normal for there to be a 'small' difference between power output
and receiver sensitivity in the various TRANSCEIVE switch positions.

First, the INJ cable MUST be a low capacitance coax or mic cable.  
Cable

impedance, loss, shielding, etc. are NOT important, only the
'capacitance per foot'.

The original cables were all 38 long, tip to tip.

Original Drake INJ and CAR OSC Cables = 19 pF/ft = .160 o.d. (foam 
poly)


RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240 o.d.
RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242 o.d.
RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270 o.d.
RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110 o.d.
Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 pf/ft = 0.160 o.d. (foam poly)
Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 pf/ft = 0.180 o.d. (foam poly)
R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 0.165 o.d. (poly)

The best choice is the Belden 8421 Audio cable from their Brilliance
line.  It looks just like the other cables, and is very flexible.  The
RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and far less flexible.  RG-62 is also
prone to shorting if bent over too small a radius, and is susceptible 
to

heat damage when soldering connectors.  The best feature of RG-62 is
that it is often FREE, since there have been many miles of it pulled 
out

of old computer networks.  Belden 8421 has been available by the foot
from someone on the list in the recent past.

The CAR OSC cable in the C-Line should be the same cable, although it
isn't quite as critical.

The proper cables will minimize the difference, however it may still
require a touch-up of the RF TUNE and GAIN controls as well as the
PRESELECTOR control in the receiver.  Especially in CW, the GAIN 
control

must be advanced further.  The ALC masks this in TUNE, but the GAIN
control is more critical in CW.  It also helps to do the PreMixer
alignment steps with the two cabled together using the correct cables.

It does sound like your GAIN control is on the low side.  Typically, on
40M in TUNE, you should get full output (typically 130W, limited by 
ALC)

before 12 o'clock.  CW shouldn't require more than about 1 o'clock for
full output.  These are two different controls on the same shaft.  In
TUNE one section is an AF gain control adjusting the level of a 1 kHz
audio tone into the Balanced Modulator, similar to whistling into the
microphone.  In CW, the other section controls a DC current applied to
the diodes in the Balanced Modulator to un-balance it and allow the
Carrier Oscillator to come through to be amplified and mixed to 
generate

the CW signal.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Jim Bo wrote:

My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the
transceive switch and in the CW Mode.
With transceive swith set on separate
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts
With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts
What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.
I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an
alignment step for this.
Comments?
Thanks
Jim



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-03-01 Thread Garey Barrell

Lee -

Yes, some had a small tag, others just had a metal ring or clip.  
Regular cables usually had phenolic insulators in the connectors, while 
the low-C cables had clear or white insulators.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


kc9...@aol.com wrote:

Garey,
The cables I use for these 2 connections have a small metal clip on 
each end..

I think these are the ones Drake sold for that purpose??
73,
Lee


-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 10:32 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...


Jim -

It is normal for there to be a 'small' difference between power output
and receiver sensitivity in the various TRANSCEIVE switch positions.

First, the INJ cable MUST be a low capacitance coax or mic cable.  Cable
impedance, loss, shielding, etc. are NOT important, only the
'capacitance per foot'.

The original cables were all 38 long, tip to tip.

Original Drake INJ and CAR OSC Cables = 19 pF/ft = .160 o.d. (foam poly)

RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240 o.d.
RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242 o.d.
RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270 o.d.
RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110 o.d.
Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 pf/ft = 0.160 o.d. (foam poly)
Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 pf/ft = 0.180 o.d. (foam poly)
R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 0.165 o.d. (poly)

The best choice is the Belden 8421 Audio cable from their Brilliance
line.  It looks just like the other cables, and is very flexible.  The
RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and far less flexible.  RG-62 is also
prone to shorting if bent over too small a radius, and is susceptible to
heat damage when soldering connectors.  The best feature of RG-62 is
that it is often FREE, since there have been many miles of it pulled out
of old computer networks.  Belden 8421 has been available by the foot
from someone on the list in the recent past.

The CAR OSC cable in the C-Line should be the same cable, although it
isn't quite as critical.

The proper cables will minimize the difference, however it may still
require a touch-up of the RF TUNE and GAIN controls as well as the
PRESELECTOR control in the receiver.  Especially in CW, the GAIN control
must be advanced further.  The ALC masks this in TUNE, but the GAIN
control is more critical in CW.  It also helps to do the PreMixer
alignment steps with the two cabled together using the correct cables.

It does sound like your GAIN control is on the low side.  Typically, on
40M in TUNE, you should get full output (typically 130W, limited by ALC)
before 12 o'clock.  CW shouldn't require more than about 1 o'clock for
full output.  These are two different controls on the same shaft.  In
TUNE one section is an AF gain control adjusting the level of a 1 kHz
audio tone into the Balanced Modulator, similar to whistling into the
microphone.  In CW, the other section controls a DC current applied to
the diodes in the Balanced Modulator to un-balance it and allow the
Carrier Oscillator to come through to be amplified and mixed to generate
the CW signal.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Jim Bo wrote:

My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the
transceive switch and in the CW Mode.
With transceive swith set on separate
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts
With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts
When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts
What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.
I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an
alignment step for this.
Comments?
Thanks
Jim



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-03-01 Thread Jim Bo

Garey,

Thanks for the response.

I am using Belden RG-59U for the 
injection cable.  Spec is 16.3 pf/foot 
and I have one foot length, so the 
capacitance of the cable is less than 
what Drake specifies.


I do not have the Carrier Osc cable 
connected between the rigs as I 
understand that is for SSB only and dows 
not play a role in CW, but will try 
connecting with a 1 foot piece of Belden 
RG-59U (again will result in less 
capacitance than what Drake spec'ed).


I am not sure what you mean by  a 
touch-up of the RF TUNE and GAIN 
controls as well as the

PRESELECTOR control in the receiver.


I re-peaked both preselectors on the 
rcvr and xmitter and still have a big 
difference betweenxmtr and separate 
switch positions.  Am I correct in 
saying the source of the drive for the 
final amplifier is same for the xmtr 
and separate position of the 
transceive switch??


Big difference between 19 watts and 100 
watts.


Also, what causes the need to advance 
the gain control so far for CW, or 
should I even worry about that?  Is 
there an adjustment for that?  I do not 
see anything in the manual that says to 
adjust this.


Tnx

Jim




Message: 5
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2011 10:30:42 -0500
From: Garey Barrell 
k4...@mindspring.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output 
Power Varies...
Message-ID: 
4d6d1122.4020...@mindspring.com
Content-Type: text/plain; 
charset=windows-1252; format=flowed


Jim -

It is normal for there to be a 'small' 
difference between power output
and receiver sensitivity in the 
various TRANSCEIVE switch positions.


First, the INJ cable MUST be a low 
capacitance coax or mic cable.  Cable
impedance, loss, shielding, etc. are 
NOT important, only the

'capacitance per foot'.

The original cables were all 38 long, 
tip to tip.


Original Drake INJ and CAR OSC Cables 
= 19 pF/ft = .160 o.d. (foam poly)


RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240 o.d.
RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242 o.d.
RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270 o.d.
RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110 o.d.
Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 
pf/ft = 0.160 o.d. (foam poly)
Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 
pf/ft = 0.180 o.d. (foam poly)
R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 
0.165 o.d. (poly)


The best choice is the Belden 8421 
Audio cable from their Brilliance
line.  It looks just like the other 
cables, and is very flexible.  The
RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and 
far less flexible.  RG-62 is also
prone to shorting if bent over too 
small a radius, and is susceptible to
heat damage when soldering connectors. 
The best feature of RG-62 is
that it is often FREE, since there 
have been many miles of it pulled out
of old computer networks.  Belden 8421 
has been available by the foot
from someone on the list in the recent 
past.


The CAR OSC cable in the C-Line should 
be the same cable, although it

isn't quite as critical.

The proper cables will minimize the 
difference, however it may still
require a touch-up of the RF TUNE and 
GAIN controls as well as the
PRESELECTOR control in the receiver. 
Especially in CW, the GAIN control
must be advanced further.  The ALC 
masks this in TUNE, but the GAIN
control is more critical in CW.  It 
also helps to do the PreMixer
alignment steps with the two cabled 
together using the correct cables.


It does sound like your GAIN control 
is on the low side.  Typically, on
40M in TUNE, you should get full 
output (typically 130W, limited by 
ALC)
before 12 o'clock.  CW shouldn't 
require more than about 1 o'clock for
full output.  These are two different 
controls on the same shaft.  In
TUNE one section is an AF gain control 
adjusting the level of a 1 kHz
audio tone into the Balanced 
Modulator, similar to whistling into 
the
microphone.  In CW, the other section 
controls a DC current applied to
the diodes in the Balanced Modulator 
to un-balance it and allow the
Carrier Oscillator to come through to 
be amplified and mixed to generate

the CW signal.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com





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[Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................

2011-02-28 Thread Jim Bo
My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the transceive 
switch and in the CW Mode.

With transceive swith set on separate 
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts

With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts

What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr 
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.

I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an alignment step 
for this.

Comments?

Thanks

Jim___
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...

2011-02-28 Thread Don Jones
Two tips, First hit the switch with Deoxite. Second double check the cables
you are using. I believe the INJ, CARRIER, and one other cable need to be a
special low loss double shielded cable. Some of the resident experts will
chime in I hope and correct any miss-information I might be spreading.

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:48:01 -0800
From: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...
Message-ID: 689C305DD4144A1F8096AFDD0907740A@JDESK
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the transceive
switch and in the CW Mode.

With transceive swith set on separate 
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts

With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts

What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.

I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an alignment
step for this.

Comments?

Thanks

Jim




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[Drakelist] T-4XC Problem has come back............................

2010-11-28 Thread Jim Bo
Well, a few hours into CQWW CWDX 
contest, the xmitter started to act up 
again.


Seems to be temp related also.

I lose the sidetone and the xmitter will 
not go into xmit when I hit the CW key.


I also found that the spot function does 
not work.


If I key the xmitter with an external 
foot switch, the spot function works, 
but the xmitter will not go into the
transmit mode and the side tone does 
not.


I was working the contest with the 
receiver in the ON position so I could 
get sidetone, as the keyer

I have does not have a sidetone on it.

Any other ideas on where to look?

Garey, I need to re-read yours, but no 
longer have it, can you re-send?


Thanks to all

Jim (just recovering from a turkey coma)
WA9ZBV 



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.

2010-11-27 Thread Curt Nixon

I dont have a c version schematic but...

In my fan rectifier adventures, I found that the drakes use a 12V CT 
filament winding..the CT is grounded ..the 12V tubes are across the 
whole winding...So you cannot ground one side of the rectifier/fan voltage.


If you go from ground to one side of the winding, you only get 6.3V.

I let the 12V fan and rectifier float..ie niether side is connected to 
ground.  Works fine.


What is different in the c version?

Curt
KU8L


Jim Bo wrote:

Guys,

Thanks for eveyones help with the subject matter.

The culprit for both of the problems was due to a circuit I added
for a external fan supply.  I went across the heater of V7 (Pin 3 and 
Pin 4)
with a simple half wave rectifier circuit with 150 uF of cap for a 
filter. Pin 4 is at ground
potential, so the diode was hanging off Pin 3.  I ran this supply 
voltage

to a 12 volt dc fan that was used to cool the final cage.

For reasons unknown, the 'oscillation problem AND the poor receive 
tone when
just the injection cable connected was due to this half wave rectifier 
circuit.


After removal of the circuit, all is back to normal, sidetone is back 
and solid,
no oscillation and no funny T6 (Tone 6) when the injection cable was 
connected.


Now, tomorrow morning, I will kick around 15M and 20M on CQWW DX test CW
with the new rig.

Thanks for eveyones help!

Jim
WA9ZBV

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.

2010-11-27 Thread Jim Bo

Curt,

I want something around 6 volts or so DC 
so the fan will run slower and quite. 
Pin 3 and 4 is the filament for a 6AU6A 
tube, with pin 4 grounded at the tube 
socket.


As soon as I disconneted the circuit, 
the oscillation went away, the raspy 
tone on received signals on the R-4C 
with the injection cable connnected went 
away and the sidetone came up in voulme. 
The fan draws less than 300 mils of 
current.


Jim


- Original Message - 
From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net

To: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 7:20 
AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC 
Oscillation and tone problem solved.



I dont have a c version schematic 
but...


In my fan rectifier adventures, I 
found that the drakes use a 12V CT 
filament winding..the CT is grounded 
..the 12V tubes are across the whole 
winding...So you cannot ground one 
side of the rectifier/fan voltage.


If you go from ground to one side of 
the winding, you only get 6.3V.


I let the 12V fan and rectifier 
float..ie niether side is connected to 
ground.  Works fine.


What is different in the c version?

Curt
KU8L


Jim Bo wrote:

Guys,

Thanks for eveyones help with the 
subject matter.


The culprit for both of the problems 
was due to a circuit I added
for a external fan supply.  I went 
across the heater of V7 (Pin 3 and 
Pin 4)
with a simple half wave rectifier 
circuit with 150 uF of cap for a 
filter. Pin 4 is at ground
potential, so the diode was hanging 
off Pin 3.  I ran this supply 
voltage
to a 12 volt dc fan that was used to 
cool the final cage.


For reasons unknown, the 
'oscillation problem AND the poor 
receive tone when
just the injection cable connected 
was due to this half wave rectifier 
circuit.


After removal of the circuit, all is 
back to normal, sidetone is back and 
solid,
no oscillation and no funny T6 (Tone 
6) when the injection cable was 
connected.


Now, tomorrow morning, I will kick 
around 15M and 20M on CQWW DX test CW

with the new rig.

Thanks for eveyones help!

Jim
WA9ZBV

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.

2010-11-27 Thread Curt Nixon

OK, I get it.

You might want to try the Silenx fans..they are nearly silent.  
REALLY..can't hear them run.  I was very impressed.  New computer 
optimized blade designs.  They are available on the online auction-site 
and from PC retailers.  No need to slow them down.  They also have a 
temp sensor controlled version that is only a couple of bucks more..but 
I still opted for the fixed speed ones even after testing the controlled 
versions..can't hear either one.  T4 and R4 stay cool enough so that the 
PA cage is the cooles part of the top case and the rx pwr transformer 
and audio area is room temp on the top of the case.


Pix:  http://picasaweb.google.com/captcurt08/DrakeFanInstall#

Also use them on the AC4

Glad you got it figured out but hard to guess what was going on..  
normal rectifiers should make no noise that a rx can pick up.


I pick up the 12V on the terminal strip where the fuse is mounted on the 
A and B versions.


Curt

Jim Bo wrote:

Curt,

I want something around 6 volts or so DC so the fan will run slower 
and quite. Pin 3 and 4 is the filament for a 6AU6A tube, with pin 4 
grounded at the tube socket.


As soon as I disconneted the circuit, the oscillation went away, the 
raspy tone on received signals on the R-4C with the injection cable 
connnected went away and the sidetone came up in voulme. The fan draws 
less than 300 mils of current.


Jim


- Original Message - From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net
To: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.



I dont have a c version schematic but...

In my fan rectifier adventures, I found that the drakes use a 12V CT 
filament winding..the CT is grounded ..the 12V tubes are across the 
whole winding...So you cannot ground one side of the rectifier/fan 
voltage.


If you go from ground to one side of the winding, you only get 6.3V.

I let the 12V fan and rectifier float..ie niether side is connected 
to ground.  Works fine.


What is different in the c version?

Curt
KU8L


Jim Bo wrote:

Guys,

Thanks for eveyones help with the subject matter.

The culprit for both of the problems was due to a circuit I added
for a external fan supply.  I went across the heater of V7 (Pin 3 
and Pin 4)
with a simple half wave rectifier circuit with 150 uF of cap for a 
filter. Pin 4 is at ground
potential, so the diode was hanging off Pin 3.  I ran this supply 
voltage

to a 12 volt dc fan that was used to cool the final cage.

For reasons unknown, the 'oscillation problem AND the poor receive 
tone when
just the injection cable connected was due to this half wave 
rectifier circuit.


After removal of the circuit, all is back to normal, sidetone is 
back and solid,
no oscillation and no funny T6 (Tone 6) when the injection cable was 
connected.


Now, tomorrow morning, I will kick around 15M and 20M on CQWW DX 
test CW

with the new rig.

Thanks for eveyones help!

Jim
WA9ZBV

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[Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.

2010-11-26 Thread Jim Bo

Guys,

Thanks for eveyones help with the 
subject matter.


The culprit for both of the problems was 
due to a circuit I added
for a external fan supply.  I went 
across the heater of V7 (Pin 3 and Pin 
4)
with a simple half wave rectifier 
circuit with 150 uF of cap for a filter. 
Pin 4 is at ground
potential, so the diode was hanging off 
Pin 3.  I ran this supply voltage
to a 12 volt dc fan that was used to 
cool the final cage.


For reasons unknown, the 'oscillation 
problem AND the poor receive tone when
just the injection cable connected was 
due to this half wave rectifier circuit.


After removal of the circuit, all is 
back to normal, sidetone is back and 
solid,
no oscillation and no funny T6 (Tone 6) 
when the injection cable was connected.


Now, tomorrow morning, I will kick 
around 15M and 20M on CQWW DX test CW

with the new rig.

Thanks for eveyones help!

Jim
WA9ZBV 



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Oscillation and tone problem solved.

2010-11-26 Thread Jim Shorney
On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 21:54:06 -0800, Jim Bo wrote:

For reasons unknown, the 'oscillation 
problem AND the poor receive tone when
just the injection cable connected was 
due to this half wave rectifier circuit.


DC fans can put a  considerable amount of electrical noise on the line. I've
seen them tear up video in outdoor security cameras so equiped.  Higher quality
fans are less prone to this, but it's probably still a  good idea to use some
L/C filtering and RF bypassing on the DC line. The  150 uF by itself was
probably not adeqate for high frequency noise. DC brushless fans have
internal DC-to-AC converters (oscillators) that can generate nice square waves.

Good catch, I'll  have to check my T-4XC fan supply for noise. Someday  
sigh

73

-Jim (so much  to do, so little time)

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] T-4XC Plot Thickens

2010-11-24 Thread Jim Bo
Hooked up the rcvr to the xmitter with 
all the patch cords and something really 
weird is going on.


When connected together the cw signals 
in the R-4C become REAL raspy, about a 
T6 on the RST scale!  Very poor.


Now if I remove only the inj cable, the 
tone goes back to normal.  I have also 
noted that the receiver takes MUCH 
longer to come back on line after you 
release the xmit button.  It is not the 
relay, but rather it sounds like 
something is discharging with a RC time 
constant as the receiver gets its ears 
back.


Comments?

Tnx

Jim 



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[Drakelist] T-4XC problem

2010-11-22 Thread Jim Bo
Fixed the power fade (went from 120 
watts to 80 watts within 5 seconds) by 
rebuilding the AC-4.  All is well with 
the power supply, voltages are correct 
and ripple is good.


What started the project was the fact 
the the xmitter, when in CW, with key 
down, I would get output power for two 
seconds.  Then the transmitter would 
quit xmitting (heard relay click) for 1 
second, then xmit for 2 seconds, then 
stop xmitting for 1 second.  Just sat 
there and oscillated from output power 
to no output power (relay clicking every 
time).  The frequency of this can be 
changed by cranking on the anti vox pot.


I cleaned relay contacts, and rotary 
switch contacts to no avail.  I searched 
the web and saw someone else with a 
similar problem, but the thread never 
did reach a conclusion that the problem 
was fixed.


Comments from the gang??

Tnx

Jim
WA9ZBV 



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[Drakelist] T-4XC Low Power Output on 160M

2010-11-19 Thread Don Jones
I have noticed that when loading up my T-4XC up on 160M I am only able to
get 45 - 50W out of my transmitter. Seems as though the loading cap has
insufficient range for proper tuning. The load control is fully CCW. Is
there a problem with the transmitter or does it just need alignment?
Thanks  73,

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Low Power Output on 160M

2010-11-19 Thread Richard Knoppow


- Original Message - 
From: Don Jones k...@comcast.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2010 11:21 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Low Power Output on 160M


I have noticed that when loading up my T-4XC up on 160M I 
am only able to
get 45 - 50W out of my transmitter. Seems as though the 
loading cap has
insufficient range for proper tuning. The load control is 
fully CCW. Is
there a problem with the transmitter or does it just need 
alignment?

Thanks  73,

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA

   What are you testing into, a dummy load or something 
else?





--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Low Power Output on 160M

2010-11-19 Thread Ron
There was a mod, I think in Ham Radio magazine, about adding a cap to the pi 
network on 160M to allow for proper tuning. Anyone know if this might be Don's 
issue?

73,
Ron WD8SBB

 
 - Original Message - From: Don Jones k...@comcast.net
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Friday, November 19, 2010 11:21 AM
 Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Low Power Output on 160M
 
 
  I have noticed that when loading up my T-4XC up on
 160M I am only able to
  get 45 - 50W out of my transmitter. Seems as though
 the loading cap has
  insufficient range for proper tuning. The load control
 is fully CCW. Is
  there a problem with the transmitter or does it just
 need alignment?
  Thanks  73,
  
  Don Jones KO7i
  Arlington, WA



  

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC VFO Transceive Mode Problem Solved

2010-11-16 Thread Don Jones
Thanks for all who responded to my request for info. I have resolved the
problem it was the INJ cable and I am good to go.
73,
Don Jones 
Arlington, WA 



--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 17:15:43 -0800
From: Don Jones k...@comcast.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] C-line will not go into transceive mode...
Strange
Message-ID: 002d01cb8462$a0ccf840$e266e8...@net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

OK, I have something strange going on. The transceive vfo select on my T-4XC
will not switch to one vfo or the other. Running separate is fine. The spot
function works good too. The vfo lights on the R-4C and T-4XC switch on 
off following the vfo select switch position on the T-4XC.
A little history, yesterday evening the R-4C was not hearing anything but
the calibrator was loud and clear. So today I broke out the Deoxite and
cleaned the contacts of the TR relay inside the T-4XC - receive problem
solved. 
I put the T-4XC back together and now I have this new issue with transceive
vfo select. I am hoping I did something stupid and easy to fix. 
73, Don Jones  KO7i

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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 17:38:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] C-line will not go into transceive mode...
Strange
Message-ID: 303165.42452...@web43131.mail.sp1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Let's start with the obvious. ?Is the INJ cable connected well at both
ends?Did you put Deox-it on more than the T/R relay?
73,Bob WW3QB

--- On Sun, 11/14/10, Don Jones k...@comcast.net wrote:

From: Don Jones k...@comcast.net
Subject: [Drakelist] C-line will not go into transceive mode... Strange
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Sunday, November 14, 2010, 8:15 PM




 
 
C-line will not go into transceive mode... Strange 

 


OK, I have something strange going on. The transceive vfo select on my T-4XC
will not switch to one vfo or the other. Running separate is fine. The spot
function works good too. The vfo lights on the R-4C and T-4XC switch on 
off following the vfo select switch position on the T-4XC.

A little history, yesterday evening the R-4C was not hearing anything but
the calibrator was loud and clear. So today I broke out the Deoxite and
cleaned the contacts of the TR relay inside the T-4XC ? receive problem
solved. 

I put the T-4XC back together and now I have this new issue with transceive
vfo select. I am hoping I did something stupid and easy to fix. 

73, Don Jones? KO7i



 

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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2010 17:42:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Bob Loving bob.lov...@sbcglobal.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Sudden loss of T-4XC ouptut power
Message-ID: 744880.82433...@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I've mentioned this before, rather recently, but check CR19 in the cathode
circuit of the driver, V4 (12BY7). I have 2 T-4XC transmitters that
exhibited sudden drop (to nothing in both cases) in power output. Both had
CR19 with cracks in the cases. The diodes would appear OK with a DMM (diode
mode) but with the application of heat would open up. Maybe there's some
intermediate mode that would allow moderate output power but that doesn't
seem to make too much sense. Most semiconductors work or they don't work, in
my experience!

A 1N4003 and up is good substitute for the B5G5 diode used by Drake.

Bob K9JU

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End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 29, Issue 21
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-13 Thread joe loverti
Garey,

I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I was
having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some kind of a
sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of the trouble.
After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and RF out was way low.
Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. I can't really accurately
describe it other than a flash or a sizzle. Not sure if it was an arc or
what. I don't see anything on the variable capacitors that indicate that an
arc occurred. I was not using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot
into my DL and at a fairly low power level. Could a component have failed?

I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't consider
myself much of a technician. I will read up on that procedure some more
before I give it a go.

Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR, XMTR,
or in separate to tune up.

73 and thanks!

-Joe
WS8X
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-13 Thread Curt Nixon

GE Group:

Joe:

Just my 2 cents here...sudden failures of output are not caused by 
alignment.   It really sounds like a component failure of some sort.  
The only thing messing with alignment will do for you at this point is 
mask the solution to real problem.


You will get good advice here regarding sorting thru the possible causes 
and isolating the fault.  Don't mess with the alignment.


FWIW

Curt
KU8L
4 Line A and B, TR3 TR4 TR7 and much non-Drake classic equipment.


joe loverti wrote:

Garey,

I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I 
was having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some 
kind of a sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of 
the trouble. After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and 
RF out was way low. Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. I 
can't really accurately describe it other than a flash or a 
sizzle. Not sure if it was an arc or what. I don't see anything on 
the variable capacitors that indicate that an arc occurred. I was not 
using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot into my DL and at a 
fairly low power level. Could a component have failed?


I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't consider 
myself much of a technician. I will read up on that procedure some 
more before I give it a go.


Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR, 
XMTR, or in separate to tune up.


73 and thanks!

-Joe
WS8X


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-13 Thread Richard Palmer
The first thing that came to my mind was your power supply. Now you have .04
cents.

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote:

 GE Group:

 Joe:

 Just my 2 cents here...sudden failures of output are not caused by
 alignment.   It really sounds like a component failure of some sort.  The
 only thing messing with alignment will do for you at this point is mask the
 solution to real problem.

 You will get good advice here regarding sorting thru the possible causes
 and isolating the fault.  Don't mess with the alignment.

 FWIW

 Curt
 KU8L
 4 Line A and B, TR3 TR4 TR7 and much non-Drake classic equipment.


 joe loverti wrote:

 Garey,

 I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I was
 having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some kind of a
 sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of the trouble.
 After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and RF out was way low.
 Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. I can't really accurately
 describe it other than a flash or a sizzle. Not sure if it was an arc or
 what. I don't see anything on the variable capacitors that indicate that an
 arc occurred. I was not using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot
 into my DL and at a fairly low power level. Could a component have failed?

 I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't consider
 myself much of a technician. I will read up on that procedure some more
 before I give it a go.

 Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR,
 XMTR, or in separate to tune up.

 73 and thanks!

 -Joe
 WS8X
 

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-13 Thread Garey Barrell

True

We're NOT talking about a full alignment here.  I merely suggested to 
Joe that he check the RF and Driver trimmers to be sure they are at 
least near peak.


Information gathered so far, over several days, indicates that there is 
most likely an RF coupling problem in the Driver and/or PA.  The DC 
voltages on the Driver are good, and the PA idle current is good.   It's 
not yet clear if this is a multi-band problem or not.


This last bit of information says that the problem lies in either the 
Driver or PA stages, and that the DC voltages are correct.  This is the 
first we have heard of the 'sizzle', which often indicates a very high 
swr, causing 'something' to arc over from the very high peak voltages 
generated.  Possible problems include an RF choke with a shorted 
turn(s), a capacitor that has broken down, or a simple flash-over from a 
wire.


It seems that the most likely problem area is the coupling into and out 
of the Driver stage.  Again, the PA idle current is ok, just no drive.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Curt Nixon wrote:

GE Group:

Joe:

Just my 2 cents here...sudden failures of output are not caused by 
alignment.   It really sounds like a component failure of some sort.  
The only thing messing with alignment will do for you at this point is 
mask the solution to real problem.


You will get good advice here regarding sorting thru the possible 
causes and isolating the fault.  Don't mess with the alignment.


FWIW

Curt
KU8L
4 Line A and B, TR3 TR4 TR7 and much non-Drake classic equipment.


joe loverti wrote:

Garey,

I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I 
was having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some 
kind of a sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of 
the trouble. After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and 
RF out was way low. Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. 
I can't really accurately describe it other than a flash or a 
sizzle. Not sure if it was an arc or what. I don't see anything on 
the variable capacitors that indicate that an arc occurred. I was not 
using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot into my DL and at a 
fairly low power level. Could a component have failed?


I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't 
consider myself much of a technician. I will read up on that 
procedure some more before I give it a go.


Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR, 
XMTR, or in separate to tune up.


73 and thanks!

-Joe
WS8X




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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-10 Thread Garey Barrell

Joe -

More info please

Plate current?

RF TUNE peak?

Other bands?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


joe loverti wrote:

Hello,

I'm hoping someone could get me pointed in the right direction with 
regard to my T-4XC. I've been achieving 100W or above (depending on 
the band) from the radio consistently in the past. In fact, as recent 
as a day ago. This afternoon I was tuning up to operate on 80M and now 
I'm only getting 10W max into a known DL. What would be the cause of 
this sudden loss of output?


Thank you advance!

-Joe
WS8X
St. Louis, MO
   


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output

2010-11-10 Thread joe loverti
Thanks to all that have replied in with regard to my T-4XC. All connections
have been checked and double checked with no joy.

Garey...

A little more background and specifics... All was working perfectly fine
until I had the bright idea to employ the use of an el cheapo antenna A/B
switch to change from my Drakes to my modern rig. I went to tune up w/ the
antenna switch in-line and this is when I noticed that my plate current was
WAY lower than it normally is. Normally, a the beginning of the tune up
sequence (with the XTR gain at 9 o'clock) I get a reading of .2 amperes of
plate. After the tune up is complete I usually see the plate at .3 or a
little more. Now the most I can muster is .2 amperes. The RF tune has little
or no effect. Max out is a little over 10 watts. I was getting over 100
watts easily on all bands before. Could my finals have failed? I am no
technician but, it seems like this would have happened more gradually.

I am getting plate current, just way down from where it was at.

RF tune does peak but, it's way down from where it was. Only about .2
amperes.

I've gotten the same results on all the bands that I've tried, 80, 40, and
20.

Thanks for the help!

-Joe Loverti Jr (WS8X)

St. Louis, MO, not Miamisburg, OH
A lot of folks get my Dad (WW8X) and I confused ;D
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output

2010-11-10 Thread Garey Barrell

Joe -

Perhaps this is too simplistic, but have you removed the switch and gone 
straight to the dummy load?


If you increase the RF GAIN does the plate current / output power increase?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

joe loverti wrote:
Thanks to all that have replied in with regard to my T-4XC. All 
connections have been checked and double checked with no joy.


Garey...

A little more background and specifics... All was working perfectly 
fine until I had the bright idea to employ the use of an el cheapo 
antenna A/B switch to change from my Drakes to my modern rig. I went 
to tune up w/ the antenna switch in-line and this is when I noticed 
that my plate current was WAY lower than it normally is. Normally, a 
the beginning of the tune up sequence (with the XTR gain at 9 o'clock) 
I get a reading of .2 amperes of plate. After the tune up is complete 
I usually see the plate at .3 or a little more. Now the most I can 
muster is .2 amperes. The RF tune has little or no effect. Max out is 
a little over 10 watts. I was getting over 100 watts easily on all 
bands before. Could my finals have failed? I am no technician but, it 
seems like this would have happened more gradually.


I am getting plate current, just way down from where it was at.

RF tune does peak but, it's way down from where it was. Only about .2 
amperes.


I've gotten the same results on all the bands that I've tried, 80, 40, 
and 20.


Thanks for the help!

-Joe Loverti Jr (WS8X)

St. Louis, MO, not Miamisburg, OH
A lot of folks get my Dad (WW8X) and I confused ;D


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[Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

2010-11-09 Thread joe loverti
Hello,

I'm hoping someone could get me pointed in the right direction with regard
to my T-4XC. I've been achieving 100W or above (depending on the band) from
the radio consistently in the past. In fact, as recent as a day ago. This
afternoon I was tuning up to operate on 80M and now I'm only getting 10W max
into a known DL. What would be the cause of this sudden loss of output?

Thank you advance!

-Joe
WS8X
St. Louis, MO
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Mystery

2010-04-09 Thread Garey Barrell

Bob -

Cool!

Hopefully it had just gone up in value, as carbon comps are wont to do, resulting in t much 
power.  I replace them with a 1W Flameproof or wirewound or ceramic composition.  Don't replace 
with a carbon film or metal film.  They don't do well with heavy currents.


Glad you found the CD useful.  I just wish I had done it 30 years ago.  It's depressing to think how 
many hours of my life I could have saved with it!  :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Gary,

Thanks! That was it. R59 fried and in two pieces. I just couldn't see
it because it was still in position and appeared to be one piece.
No 3.3 ohm resistors in the junk box so I will place an order in the
AM. Maybe I will put a 1 watter in there just to increase the margin.
Your service CD just paid for itself by saving me time searching for R59.

Thanks Again Garey,

Bob  K6GGO


Bob -

First thing to check is R59.  It has probably gone up in value,
causing your meter to read high, and may even be the source of your
smoke.

Possible heater-cathode short in one of the Final tubes.

Also check R132 and R133.  You may have had a momentary short from
one of the panel lamp socket lugs to chassis.  They turn on the
socket and can touch the chassis.

Beyond that would take a little more investigation.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

About a month ago I was in a CW QSO using my C-line twins. While
transmitting I was getting a little long winded, nothing outrageous,
my transmission lasted
maybe 1.5 minutes at the most when a quite visible puff of smoke
arose from the T-4XC and the panel lights went out. Every thing was
dead. I have been fairly
busy lately and only now have I had a chance to try and figure out
what happened. I opened up the T-4XC and did a visual check top and
bottom and could find
no discolored or burnt components. I checked the AC-4 and the main
fuse (5 amp slo blo) was blown. I replaced the fuse and checked the
power supply voltages
everything was fine. I put the transmitter on a dummy load and it
loads up fine. The power out seems a little light. It seems like I
need an awful lot of plate current (nearly 400ma)
to get over 100 watts on 40 meters. I didn't keep it at that plate
current for very long. I did notice that the neutralization is off a
bit. I guess I should do a voltage check and a complete
alignment as it hasn't been done in a while. But I am not sure where
to start looking for the origin of the smoke. Any ideas as to where
I should start looking?

Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

P.S. the 15 ohm cathode resistors are fine




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[Drakelist] T-4XC Mystery

2010-04-08 Thread Robert Fish

Hi Guys,

About a month ago I was in a CW QSO using my C-line twins. While 
transmitting I was getting a little long winded, nothing outrageous, my 
transmission lasted
maybe 1.5 minutes at the most when a quite visible puff of smoke arose 
from the T-4XC and the panel lights went out. Every thing was dead. I 
have been fairly
busy lately and only now have I had a chance to try and figure out what 
happened. I opened up the T-4XC and did a visual check top and bottom 
and could find
no discolored or burnt components. I checked the AC-4 and the main fuse 
(5 amp slo blo) was blown. I replaced the fuse and checked the power 
supply voltages
everything was fine. I put the transmitter on a dummy load and it loads 
up fine. The power out seems a little light. It seems like I need an 
awful lot of plate current (nearly 400ma)
to get over 100 watts on 40 meters. I didn't keep it at that plate 
current for very long. I did notice that the neutralization is off a 
bit. I guess I should do a voltage check and a complete
alignment as it hasn't been done in a while. But I am not sure where to 
start looking for the origin of the smoke. Any ideas as to where I 
should start looking?


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

P.S. the 15 ohm cathode resistors are fine


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Mystery

2010-04-08 Thread Garey Barrell

Bob -

First thing to check is R59.  It has probably gone up in value, causing 
your meter to read high, and may even be the source of your smoke.


Possible heater-cathode short in one of the Final tubes.

Also check R132 and R133.  You may have had a momentary short from one 
of the panel lamp socket lugs to chassis.  They turn on the socket and 
can touch the chassis.


Beyond that would take a little more investigation.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

About a month ago I was in a CW QSO using my C-line twins. While 
transmitting I was getting a little long winded, nothing outrageous, 
my transmission lasted
maybe 1.5 minutes at the most when a quite visible puff of smoke arose 
from the T-4XC and the panel lights went out. Every thing was dead. I 
have been fairly
busy lately and only now have I had a chance to try and figure out 
what happened. I opened up the T-4XC and did a visual check top and 
bottom and could find
no discolored or burnt components. I checked the AC-4 and the main 
fuse (5 amp slo blo) was blown. I replaced the fuse and checked the 
power supply voltages
everything was fine. I put the transmitter on a dummy load and it 
loads up fine. The power out seems a little light. It seems like I 
need an awful lot of plate current (nearly 400ma)
to get over 100 watts on 40 meters. I didn't keep it at that plate 
current for very long. I did notice that the neutralization is off a 
bit. I guess I should do a voltage check and a complete
alignment as it hasn't been done in a while. But I am not sure where 
to start looking for the origin of the smoke. Any ideas as to where I 
should start looking?


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

P.S. the 15 ohm cathode resistors are fine




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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Mystery

2010-04-08 Thread Robert Fish

Hi Gary,

Thanks! That was it. R59 fried and in two pieces. I just couldn't see it 
because it was still in position and appeared to be one piece.
No 3.3 ohm resistors in the junk box so I will place an order in the AM. 
Maybe I will put a 1 watter in there just to increase the margin.

Your service CD just paid for itself by saving me time searching for R59.

Thanks Again Garey,

Bob  K6GGO


Bob -

First thing to check is R59.  It has probably gone up in value, 
causing your meter to read high, and may even be the source of your 
smoke.


Possible heater-cathode short in one of the Final tubes.

Also check R132 and R133.  You may have had a momentary short from one 
of the panel lamp socket lugs to chassis.  They turn on the socket and 
can touch the chassis.


Beyond that would take a little more investigation.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,

About a month ago I was in a CW QSO using my C-line twins. While 
transmitting I was getting a little long winded, nothing outrageous, 
my transmission lasted
maybe 1.5 minutes at the most when a quite visible puff of smoke 
arose from the T-4XC and the panel lights went out. Every thing was 
dead. I have been fairly
busy lately and only now have I had a chance to try and figure out 
what happened. I opened up the T-4XC and did a visual check top and 
bottom and could find
no discolored or burnt components. I checked the AC-4 and the main 
fuse (5 amp slo blo) was blown. I replaced the fuse and checked the 
power supply voltages
everything was fine. I put the transmitter on a dummy load and it 
loads up fine. The power out seems a little light. It seems like I 
need an awful lot of plate current (nearly 400ma)
to get over 100 watts on 40 meters. I didn't keep it at that plate 
current for very long. I did notice that the neutralization is off a 
bit. I guess I should do a voltage check and a complete
alignment as it hasn't been done in a while. But I am not sure where 
to start looking for the origin of the smoke. Any ideas as to where I 
should start looking?


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

P.S. the 15 ohm cathode resistors are fine




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[Drakelist] T-4XC issues

2010-02-13 Thread Brett Forehand
Hey everyone, still trying to sort out the new to me Drake twins.  Replaced 
caps in RX/TX, installed new finals in TX.  PS rebuilt using Heathkit Shop's 
kit.  Final tubes test 100% ouput.  Having trouble loading up transmit.  On 80 
meters, only getting about 20 watts out.  10 meters, the output goes up to 
about 150 watts out, and is in oscillation. Output goes up from the low bands 
to the oscillation/high output state on the high bands.  Power will hold at 
normal on 20 meters, but then bam!  goes into oscillation.  Testing is being 
done into a dummy load.  Can someone point me in the right direction as to what 
is wrong? 

Tnx and 73,
Brett



  

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC issues

2010-02-13 Thread Garey Barrell

Brett -

Are the Final tubes the same brand?

What brand are they?

Have you done the Final neutralization?  Section 5-10 in the manual.

Does the RF TUNE peak in the right areas of the scale?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Brett Forehand wrote:

Hey everyone, still trying to sort out the new to me Drake twins.  Replaced caps in 
RX/TX, installed new finals in TX.  PS rebuilt using Heathkit Shop's kit.  Final tubes test 100% 
ouput.  Having trouble loading up transmit.  On 80 meters, only getting about 20 watts out.  10 
meters, the output goes up to about 150 watts out, and is in oscillation. Output goes up from the 
low bands to the oscillation/high output state on the high bands.  Power will hold at normal on 20 
meters, but then bam!  goes into oscillation.  Testing is being done into a dummy load. 
 Can someone point me in the right direction as to what is wrong?

Tnx and 73,
Brett

   


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[Drakelist] T-4XC Bias

2010-02-05 Thread Michael Ditmore
Have good bias (-55 adjustable up - or down - to -75V) at rear plug - and on PS 
sub board, but nothing getting to finals - any good ideas where to look first?

Michael
W7HUT
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Bias

2010-02-05 Thread Garey Barrell

Michael -

Shorted V1, shorted C63.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Michael Ditmore wrote:

Have good bias (-55 adjustable up - or down - to -75V) at rear plug - and on PS 
sub board, but nothing getting to finals - any good ideas where to look first?

Michael
W7HUT

   


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[Drakelist] T-4XC carrier in the R-4C receiver

2010-01-23 Thread k...@juno.com
I recently acquired a R-4C receiver and T-4XC and the transmitter has a 
problem. With power applied to it after warm up the meter on transmitter will 
go negative to the left of zero and i get a carrier in the receiver at about 60 
db on the same frequency on both VFO's. checked all tubes and they seem to be 
OK. The carrier will change in amplitude with tuning of the final tank for max 
output. Could someone give me an idea on what to do to trouble shoot it. 

Rex Meier
KQ0Z


Love Spell
Click here to light up your life with a love spell!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=CH0uhEhY-Fy2WuECIAwM2gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNRwA=

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC carrier in the R-4C receiver

2010-01-23 Thread Garey Barrell
Sounds like the Bias supply may have failed, or be failing.  Have you 
been able to set the transmitter idle current per the manual?.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


k...@juno.com wrote:

I recently acquired a R-4C receiver and T-4XC and the transmitter has a 
problem. With power applied to it after warm up the meter on transmitter will 
go negative to the left of zero and i get a carrier in the receiver at about 60 
db on the same frequency on both VFO's. checked all tubes and they seem to be 
OK. The carrier will change in amplitude with tuning of the final tank for max 
output. Could someone give me an idea on what to do to trouble shoot it.

Rex Meier
KQ0Z

   


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC carrier in the R-4C receiver

2010-01-23 Thread dassaf
 If the bias is ok, then Check the screen resistors on the final tubes.
These resistors occasionally fail.  Note:  most tube checkers do not have
the current to check a 6jb6 accurately.

Good luck. 


David Assaf, III
From W5XU Desktop

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 12:04 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC carrier in the R-4C receiver

Sounds like the Bias supply may have failed, or be failing.  Have you been
able to set the transmitter idle current per the manual?.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com


k...@juno.com wrote:
 I recently acquired a R-4C receiver and T-4XC and the transmitter has a
problem. With power applied to it after warm up the meter on transmitter
will go negative to the left of zero and i get a carrier in the receiver at
about 60 db on the same frequency on both VFO's. checked all tubes and they
seem to be OK. The carrier will change in amplitude with tuning of the final
tank for max output. Could someone give me an idea on what to do to trouble
shoot it.

 Rex Meier
 KQ0Z



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[Drakelist] T-4XC slugs

2010-01-18 Thread AirRadio
I am in the process of rebuilding a T-4XC transmitter, before I test this, I 
noticed that the slug on T6 grid coil has been wound in somewhat, now I assume 
this has been done by some misguided person as I am thinking all of these 
should be the same height? I refered to the manual and it says about various 
dot colours, cannot see any coloured dots so maybe mine are no dot?
Also resistor r90 47k and the diode cr19 on V4 driver were both fried, any 
ideas why these should pop? might give me an idea what to look for on switch on.
73 Max M0GHQ/KJ4ISS


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[Drakelist] T-4XC slugs +

2010-01-18 Thread AirRadio
I can also see that T1 has been damaged at some point maybe this is having an 
influence on T6? 



  I am in the process of rebuilding a T-4XC transmitter, before I test this, I 
noticed that the slug on T6 grid coil has been wound in somewhat, now I assume 
this has been done by some misguided person as I am thinking all of these 
should be the same height? I refered to the manual and it says about various 
dot colours, cannot see any coloured dots so maybe mine are no dot? 
  Also resistor r90 47k and the diode cr19 on V4 driver were both fried, any 
ideas why these should pop? might give me an idea what to look for on switch on.
  73 Max M0GHQ/KJ4ISS



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R4-C Serial numbers

2009-10-12 Thread Tom NØJMY

Hi, Brett.  And thanks, Don.

Yes, we stock individual can-caps and complete re-cap kits for most 
Drake units, including your transmitter and receiver.


You can order them online at www.hayseedhamfest.com/capkit.htm .

For the AC-3 and AC-4, definitely check out Mike Bryce's p.s. 
rebuild/upgrade units at www.theheathkitshop.com.  They are superb.


73,
Tom NØJMY .   .

Hayseed Hamfest Co. - Multi-section Can Capacitors
for vintage Heathkit, Drake, Halli, Hammy, more...
www.hayseedhamfest.com



Don Cunningham wrote:

Brett,
I can't answer your serial number questions, but can recommend very good 
sources for the cap kits.  For the transmitter/receiver try 
www.hayseedhamfest.com http://www.hayseedhamfest.com .  Tom has the 
multisection caps and a reasonable price on the total cap kits.  For the 
power supply, see www.theheathkitshop.com 
http://www.theheathkitshop.com and look at Mike's AC4R kit.  That 
should put the rigs in fine shape.  Maybe Garey can chime in with the 
serial number answer, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK

- Original Message -
*From:* Brett Forehand mailto:brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
*To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net
*Sent:* Sunday, October 11, 2009 7:57 PM
*Subject:* [Drakelist] T-4XC/R4-C Serial numbers

Hey folks... just looking at serial numbers and wondering about what
differences there are in models/years made.  My receiver's serial
number is 25743, and the transmitter is 28390.

Interested in buying cap kits for both the tx and rx.  Power supply too!

Thanks,
Brett
  





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[Drakelist] T-4XC/R4-C Serial numbers

2009-10-11 Thread Brett Forehand
Hey folks... just looking at serial numbers and wondering about what 
differences there are in models/years made.  My receiver's serial number is 
25743, and the transmitter is 28390.
Interested in buying cap kits for both the tx and rx.  Power supply too!
Thanks,Brett  


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-27 Thread Brett Forehand
Wow!  Not sure how to respond to everyone... had no idea this list was THIS 
active.  Thanks to all who answered.  My apologies to everyone for not getting 
in here sooner... I work 12 hour shifts, and also had a plumbing problem at my 
house.
With that being said, I have read and re-read the manual regarding tune-up.  
Tuning per the manual, I am getting max 20 watts on 20 and 40 (maximum gain on 
the transmitter). Running at the recommended 11 o'clock setting on the gain, I 
only see about 5-10 watts out.  I am not sure if my Kenwood tuner/watt meter is 
PEP or not, but that's the power it shows.  The lights on the transmitter do 
not dim whatsoever, which I think I could expect if the PS was weak.  I am 
going to look at the final tubes (I can get a matched NOS pair pretty cheap) 
and see if that might be it.  12BY7 (I think?) was replaced with no change in 
output.  Supposedly, this rig was run almost daily until about 4 months ago.  
Sadly, the previous owner is now a silent key.
I'm not going to fiddle with tuning pots and such until I can sort out the 
simple stuff.  And even then, it will probably be shipped off to a competent 
tech.
Thanks to all who answered and provided guidance.  I really appreciate it!
I'll keep everyone posted as I make any progress.
73,Brett



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-26 Thread Ron
okay only did a reply instead of reply all.  Please read before twiddling with 
the rack trimmers.

--- On Wed, 8/26/09, Ron wd8...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
 To: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
 Date: Wednesday, August 26, 2009, 8:08 PM
 OMG! DON'T be screwing with the
 trimmers on the side of the rack for a reading like
 this!   First question is; is the power meter
 reading average or peak power?  If average, this is
 actually normal.  This rig does not have compression
 built in, so you will only see a very low average power. A
 peak reading power meter should show about 100 or so watts.
 
 Try this first.  In TUNE, what can you get on power
 output.  That should be about 90-100 watts on most
 bands.  CW will drive a bit more, for what reason I am
 not sure.  If this power is not obtained, first check
 voltages on the power supply.  Next most likely thing
 is tubes.  
 
 At least this is my opinion.
 
 73,
 Ron WD8SBB
 
 --- On Tue, 8/25/09, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 
  From: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
  Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power
 questions
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 5:21 PM
  Hello
  folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake
  twins set.  Receive seems to be working
  well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all
 the
  crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO
 is
  working smoothly.  The noise blanker is
 phenomenal.
   Getting the nicotine off of the front panel
 revealed a
  real nice face on both the transmitter and the
 receiver.
  Using a hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the
 best, but
  seems to pull in signals very well. 
  I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB)
  on 20 and 40.  I have VERY little output
 according to
  the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using is an
  outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone
 and call
  it a QRP rig, I guess!  ;)  
  I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS
  could be set wrong?  Or am I
   to assume since there is not much output when
  tuning/loading, (below .1 ma, actually at the little
 notch
  on the top side of the meter) that the power supply is
 soft?
   I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board
 for
  these supplies, and am considering getting one.
  Any suggestions to point me the right direction
  are greatly appreciated.  I am a total newbie at
 this,
  and can use all the help I can get.
  Thanks and
  73,Brett  
  
  

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[Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread Brett Forehand
Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake twins set.  Receive 
seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all the 
crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO is working smoothly.  The 
noise blanker is phenomenal.  Getting the nicotine off of the front panel 
revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a 
hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in signals 
very well. 
I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40.  I have VERY 
little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using is 
an outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig, I 
guess!  ;)  
I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong?  Or am I to 
assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma, 
actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power 
supply is soft?  I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these 
supplies, and am considering getting one.
Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated.  I am 
a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.
Thanks and 73,Brett  


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread amfone
  There are small tuning caps on the T4XC and R4C as I recall on the side of 
each one, to tweak output on each band using each independent PTO. I believe 
there are three for each band. With a watt meter and dummy load.. incrementally 
adjust these for about 100 watts output... not more..if you can only get 80 to 
90 watts out on a band particularly 15 or 10 meters that's  fine.

You must remove as I recall both the top and bottom covers of each, the T4XC 
and R4C...to get to this small tinning caps on the side of the rigs.

73 Tim
wb8uhz

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 5:21 PM

Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake twins set.  Receive 
seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all the 
crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO is working smoothly.  The 
noise blanker is phenomenal.  Getting the nicotine off of the front panel 
revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a 
hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in signals 
very well. 
I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40.  I have VERY 
little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using is 
an outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig, I 
guess!  ;)  
I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong?  Or am I
 to assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma, 
actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power 
supply is soft?  I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these 
supplies, and am considering getting one.
Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated.  I am 
a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.
Thanks and 73,Brett  


  
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread Chuck Grandgent
also, use an INSULATED screwdriver for these on the left side of the
chassis.  If you use a metal one and it touches the chassis while you are
making adjustments, it can short stuff out.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 6:12 PM, amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com wrote:

   There are small tuning caps on the T4XC and R4C as I recall on the side
 of each one, to tweak output on each band using each independent PTO. I
 believe there are three for each band. With a watt meter and dummy load..
 incrementally adjust these for about 100 watts output... not more..if you
 can only get 80 to 90 watts out on a band particularly 15 or 10 meters
 that's  fine.

 You must remove as I recall both the top and bottom covers of each, the
 T4XC and R4C...to get to this small tinning caps on the side of the rigs.

 73 Tim
 wb8uhz

 --- On *Tue, 8/25/09, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com* wrote:


 From: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 5:21 PM


 Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake twins set.  Receive
 seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all the
 crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO is working smoothly.  The
 noise blanker is phenomenal.  Getting the nicotine off of the front panel
 revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a
 hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in
 signals very well.
 I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40.  I have VERY
 little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using
 is an outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig,
 I guess!  ;)
 I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong?  Or am I
 to assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma,
 actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power
 supply is soft?  I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these
 supplies, and am considering getting one.

 Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated.  I
 am a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.

 Thanks and 73,
 Brett



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread amfone
 Yes on the insulated screwdriver Chuck..
73 tim
wb8uhz

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com wrote:

From: Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
To: amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 6:48 PM

also, use an INSULATED screwdriver for these on the left side of the chassis.  
If you use a metal one and it touches the chassis while you are making 
adjustments, it can short stuff out.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 6:12 PM, amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com wrote:


  There are small tuning caps on the T4XC and R4C as I recall on the side of 
each one, to tweak output on each band using each independent PTO. I believe 
there are three for each band. With a watt meter and dummy load.. incrementally 
adjust these for about 100 watts output... not more..if you can only get 80 to 
90 watts out on a band particularly 15 or 10 meters that's  fine.


You must remove as I recall both the top and bottom covers of each, the T4XC 
and R4C...to get to this small tinning caps on the side of the rigs.

73 Tim
wb8uhz

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com wrote:


From: Brett Forehand
 brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net

Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 5:21 PM


Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake twins set.  Receive 
seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit.  Knocked all the 
crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls.  BTO is working smoothly.  The 
noise blanker is phenomenal.  Getting the nicotine off of the front panel 
revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a 
hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in signals 
very
 well. 
I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40.  I have VERY 
little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using is 
an outboard Kenwood.  I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig, I 
guess!  ;)  

I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong?  Or am I
 to assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma, 
actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power 
supply is soft?  I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these 
supplies, and am considering getting one.

Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated.  I am 
a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.
Thanks and 73,Brett
  


  
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread Al Parker

Hi Brett,
   You may have lost one of the diodes in a voltage doubler section in the 
power supply, thus getting about half voltage.   What does your wattmeter 
show in tune position, or on CW?  If it's low, suspect the p.s., or 
possibly the plate dropping resistor in the buffer (12BY7) in the T-4XC. 
Also check the cathode  screen resistors for both of the final tubes.  They 
should be within 10% of nominal.  Don't mess with adjustments until you've 
checked those things.
   Can you set idle current properly at 70 ma.?  If not, change the 
electrolytic filter caps in the bias section of the supply.  They are the 
gotchas in the whole thing, if they go, your transmitter can go on and 
fry the fnals, when you're not even there, if it's powered up.  The VOX 
triggers and a ripple in the bias supply drives the finals full tilt to 
destruction.  It happens in seconds.

73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.

  Ratty, to Mole


- Original Message - 
From: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 5:21 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions


Hello folks, I'm new to the group and new to a Drake twins set. Receive 
seems to be working well after using a LOT of deoxit. Knocked all the 
crispy/scratchiness out of all the controls. BTO is working smoothly. The 
noise blanker is phenomenal. Getting the nicotine off of the front panel 
revealed a real nice face on both the transmitter and the receiver. Using a 
hand me down G5RV, which I know is not the best, but seems to pull in 
signals very well.
I am not getting much output (5-10 watts on SSB) on 20 and 40. I have VERY 
little output according to the transmitter meter, the watt meter I'm using 
is an outboard Kenwood. I could just leave it alone and call it a QRP rig, I 
guess! ;)
I was wondering if the bias setting on the PS could be set wrong? Or am I to 
assume since there is not much output when tuning/loading, (below .1 ma, 
actually at the little notch on the top side of the meter) that the power 
supply is soft? I have seen the cap replacement/upgrade board for these 
supplies, and am considering getting one.
Any suggestions to point me the right direction are greatly appreciated. I 
am a total newbie at this, and can use all the help I can get.

Thanks and 73,Brett









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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions

2009-08-25 Thread Al Parker
Yes, and do not tighten any of them too tight, the mica can fracture and 
they'll short out just like with a screwdriver.  (if they need to be tight, 
something else is wrong.)

Al, W8UT

- Original Message - 
From: amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com

To: Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com
Cc: Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions


Yes on the insulated screwdriver Chuck..
73 tim
wb8uhz

--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com wrote:

From: Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC/R-4C/AC-4 low power questions
To: amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net, Brett Forehand brett_foreh...@yahoo.com
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 6:48 PM

also, use an INSULATED screwdriver for these on the left side of the 
chassis. If you use a metal one and it touches the chassis while you are 
making adjustments, it can short stuff out.


Chuck, K1OM 



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[Drakelist] T-4XC Housing Paint

2009-08-01 Thread Bob Loving
Hello, all. I am new to the Drakelist but have been an owner of one or more 
pieces of RL Drake equipment since 1963. My R-4 is serial number 0065 but I 
redesigned and solid stated it over the course of many years.
 
My question pertains to a T-4XC (s/n 25745) and MS-4 (w/AC-4) that purchased at 
a recent hamfest (for a very good price): Did RL Drake ever ship any radios or 
accessories in the 4-line with a semiflat black crinkle-like finish? That is 
the finish on the cabinets of the T-4XC and MS-4, not the splotchy semiflat 
black of my other T-4XC and R-4C. The finish looks very professional if it was 
done aftermarket.
 
Thank you to all who post to the Drakelist the myriad of suggestions for 
repairing and maintaining these wonderful pieces of equipment. This particular 
T-4XC had low power output, ~50 W, and a different setof 6JB6s brought it up to 
specification.
 
73,
 
Bob K9JU
Streamwood, IL
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[Drakelist] T-4XC Problem

2009-05-07 Thread Bob Fish

Hi Guys,
My T-4XC has stopped transmitting. I have normal idle current. But not 
much more. If I turn the gain way up I can get a barely perceptible dip 
in plate current.90 or 100 ma. So I turned the bias voltage all the way 
down and put it in tune very briefly to see if the finals were at least 
functional. I get about 260ma when I do that. I presume this means they 
still work?


It looks like I have lost drive somewhere. I checked the carrier 
oscillator and it is up and running, I can see it with a scope and a 
freq counter. However, I don't see my 5.645 Mhz at the plate of V2 (IF 
amp). I did a voltage check and all of the voltages on V2 look normal. 
Then I did a resistance check on V2. I found everything normal except 
the cathode measures 5.5k to ground. The book says it should measure 
infinite. Is this potentially my problem or is this non critical. I 
thought I would see if you guys think I am on the right track before I 
start lifting one leg of every cap in that circuit.


Thanks,

Bob  K6GGO

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem

2009-05-07 Thread LEE BAHR
My guess is the bias supply caps are probably bad and you are getting AC on 
the bias which does not show up on the meter.  (The peak AC volts are 
masking your DC set point).  At least replace the bias electrolytics, but 
why not just put in an AC-4R board with all new parts including all the 
electrolytics.


Lee, w0vt

- Original Message - 
From: Bob Fish rwf...@comcast.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:02 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem



Hi Guys,
My T-4XC has stopped transmitting. I have normal idle current. But not 
much more. If I turn the gain way up I can get a barely perceptible dip in 
plate current.90 or 100 ma. So I turned the bias voltage all the way down 
and put it in tune very briefly to see if the finals were at least 
functional. I get about 260ma when I do that. I presume this means they 
still work?


It looks like I have lost drive somewhere. I checked the carrier 
oscillator and it is up and running, I can see it with a scope and a freq 
counter. However, I don't see my 5.645 Mhz at the plate of V2 (IF amp). I 
did a voltage check and all of the voltages on V2 look normal. Then I did 
a resistance check on V2. I found everything normal except the cathode 
measures 5.5k to ground. The book says it should measure infinite. Is this 
potentially my problem or is this non critical. I thought I would see if 
you guys think I am on the right track before I start lifting one leg of 
every cap in that circuit.


Thanks,

Bob  K6GGO

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem

2009-05-07 Thread LEE BAHR

Sorry, didn't read your second paragraph.

Lee, w0vt


- Original Message - 
From: Bob Fish rwf...@comcast.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 2:02 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Problem



Hi Guys,
My T-4XC has stopped transmitting. I have normal idle current. But not 
much more. If I turn the gain way up I can get a barely perceptible dip 
in plate current.90 or 100 ma. So I turned the bias voltage all the way 
down and put it in tune very briefly to see if the finals were at least 
functional. I get about 260ma when I do that. I presume this means they 
still work?


It looks like I have lost drive somewhere. I checked the carrier 
oscillator and it is up and running, I can see it with a scope and a 
freq counter. However, I don't see my 5.645 Mhz at the plate of V2 (IF 
amp). I did a voltage check and all of the voltages on V2 look normal. 
Then I did a resistance check on V2. I found everything normal except 
the cathode measures 5.5k to ground. The book says it should measure 
infinite. Is this potentially my problem or is this non critical. I 
thought I would see if you guys think I am on the right track before I 
start lifting one leg of every cap in that circuit.


Thanks,

Bob  K6GGO

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[Drakelist] T-4XC relay won't go to transmit

2009-03-19 Thread J G
Hello everyone,
I just got a C line to add to my B line. Love this stuff.
 
The problem:
The relay in the T-4XC will not switch to transmit.
 
Background:
The T-4XC was working when I got it, althought the switches needed to be 
cleaned; I could tell by the meter bouncing around and by noise made in the 
receiver when switching. I cleaned the switches and checked the tubes while I 
was at it.
I put it back in line and things were fine for a while. Then, without smoke, 
sparks, or any other fanfare, the relay stopped doing its job. This was shortly 
after I plugged in a mic.
To eliminate any possible suspicion of the power supply, I tried the AC-4 from 
the B line. No chnage (still not working).
If it makes any difference, the serial number is 21,000+ (forgot the last 3 
digits).
 
Question:
Would the relay just up and fail like that? I looked through the archives and 
note that relays do need replacing at times. But, before I order one (and thank 
for having the Mouser number there in a 1/2007 post), could the cause be 
elsewhere?
 
Thanks,
Jim


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC relay won't go to transmit

2009-03-19 Thread Jim Atkins
Do you have the schematic for the T-4XC? If so you can trace through the keying 
circuit to see if the relay is getting the proper voltage to pull it in. Also 
you can measure its resistance to see if it is open first before you start 
doing some circuit troubleshooting.

Jim
  - Original Message - 
  From: J G 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 4:00 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC relay won't go to transmit


Hello everyone,
I just got a C line to add to my B line. Love this stuff.

The problem:
The relay in the T-4XC will not switch to transmit.

Background:
The T-4XC was working when I got it, althought the switches needed to 
be cleaned; I could tell by the meter bouncing around and by noise made in the 
receiver when switching. I cleaned the switches and checked the tubes while I 
was at it.
I put it back in line and things were fine for a while. Then, without 
smoke, sparks, or any other fanfare, the relay stopped doing its job. This was 
shortly after I plugged in a mic.
To eliminate any possible suspicion of the power supply, I tried the 
AC-4 from the B line. No chnage (still not working).
If it makes any difference, the serial number is 21,000+ (forgot the 
last 3 digits).

Question:
Would the relay just up and fail like that? I looked through the 
archives and note that relays do need replacing at times. But, before I order 
one (and thank for having the Mouser number there in a 1/2007 post), could the 
cause be elsewhere?

Thanks,
Jim 




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