[Elecraft] mfj 297 mike with K2

[John Wiener]

Does anyone have experience with the MFJ 297 mike and the K2?

John
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Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Phil Kane]

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 17:58:53 -0800, Bob Nielsen wrote:

>I remember in my high school physics class (1955) the instructor (ex-
>W7TSZ) told us that it might be possible to build a ONE farad
>capacitor, but it would be as big as the classroom.  Times have
>really changed!

  The materials have changed but the laws of physics haven't.
  It depends on the voltage.  Power line capacitors (used for power
  factor correction) are as big as power line tranformers in some
  cases.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

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Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Bob Nielsen]

I remember in my high school physics class (1955) the instructor (ex- 
W7TSZ) told us that it might be possible to build a ONE farad  
capacitor, but it would be as big as the classroom.  Times have  
really changed!


73,
Bob, N7XY

On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:

In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F  
capacitor.  Yes, kiloFarads.  Interesting things are happening in  
the super capacitor field.

 Kevin.  KD5ONS

-Original Message-

From: Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
To: 'Phil Kane' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)


No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.

But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About  
5" long x

1.5" diameter!

YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this  
one.  Really!



See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf

73,
Steve
aa8af



-Original Message-
From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
To: Steve
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

  Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the  
size of

  a beer barrel!!!


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[Elecraft] K1 Mod

[John J. Lally]

Has anyone modified a K1 so that you can transmit/receive on 3700?

John Lally
W7JJL
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Re: [Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient
signal level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.

When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky
oscillator being sensitive to L4A,  I adjusted the slug while watching
at TP1.  Sure enough, as the slug was adjusted, TP1 rose from 0VDC to
4.5VDC and then started back toward 0VDC as I continued to turn the
slug into L4A.

I backed out the slug until TP1 read its maximum of 0.45VDC and then
continued out until the voltage at TP1 returned to 0VDC.

When oscillating, the frequency measures at 193.995, which is well
within the accuracy of my frequency counter.

--

As I don't have an XV222, I am assuming that the local oscillator is an 
overtone oscillator.  In most overtone oscillators there is a tuned circuit 
that selects the required overtone frequency, in this case 193.995 MHz, and 
I am guessing that L4A is part of that tuned circuit. If all the components 
and DC voltages are OK, the result that you are getting is typical if the 
tuned circuit cannot be tuned properly. It sounds as though the inductance 
of L4A is reaching its maximum as you turn the slug in, but not enough 
inductance is obtained, and as you continue to turn the slug into L4A its 
inductance starts to decrease again.


Another possibility is an out of tolerance capacitor in the tuned circuit 
which if on the low side would require greater inductance than usual from 
L4A, and L4A can't provide it. A "maybe" possibility is that the crystal you 
have is "sluggish" at the overtone used..


If however the LO is an oscillator followed by frequency multipliers and L4A 
is in one of the tuned circuits, then what I said about the position of the 
L4A's slug and the capacitor tolerance would also apply.


Metal tuning tools are a no no when the tool must connect with the slug. 
Very easy to break slugs and the tool has its own effect on tuning by just 
being near or in the coil.


Hope that this helps.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD





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RE: [Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Ron,

Yes, Q1 is mounted 3/8" high with the teflon spacer.  I was thinking that
the crystal is OK because it oscillates at the correct frequency.

How critical is the MPS 918?  Could I substitute a 2N  in place of Q1
just to check out the operation of Q2 (BFR96)?  Is that a sensible thing to
do? ___

You've run flat up against all I know about the L.O. I would suspect a flaky
transistor or, possibly, a low-activity crystal. They can be on frequency
and still not provide the drive needed. As you probably know, overtone
oscillators are finicky things. 

I'm not the engineer on that project so I can't answer your question about
substituting Q1. I'd suggest dropping Gary a line at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
He may have dealt with that issue already for someone else! 

Ron AC7AC

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[QRP-L] Tenna Dipper

[Mike Scott]

Yesterday I played antenna, changing the height of two antennas.

Today my 40-M Inverted V fed with 50-ohm RG8-X had high SWR; it had worked
the day before at a lower height, hm.

I built one of those 4SQRP "Tenna Dippers" some time ago. Sure enough the
LED didn't come close to extinguishing when I dipped the antenna. So I
re-soldered the connections, still bad.

By raising the antenna I ended up changing the geometry, the V angle had
flattened some affecting the impedance.

It was easy to adjust the angle using the Tenna Dipper.
With the Tenna Dipper at resonance frequency and LED light lit, I just
loosened the V end support ropes and played with the angle until the LED
exactly extinguished. I really did "dip" my antenna.

Nice gadget!



Mike Scott
AE6WA
Tarzana, CA 
DM04



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Fw: Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Kevin Rock]

-Forwarded Message-
>From: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Mar 24, 2006 7:09 PM
>To: Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>
>But, much like the muzzle of a firearm, you do not want to be close when it 
>discharges!
>Kevin.   KD5ONS
>
>
>
>-Original Message-
>>From: Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Sent: Mar 24, 2006 7:06 PM
>>To: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>>
>>But not as bad as this one.
>>
>>That 3KF cap sounds expensive. To buy one, I'd guess you have to  
>>charge it...
>>
>>;-) :-) :-)
>>
>>
>>On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
>>
>>> In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F  
>>> capacitor.  Yes, kiloFarads.  Interesting things are happening in  
>>> the super capacitor field.
>>>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
 From: Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
 To: 'Phil Kane' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)


 No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.

 But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About  
 5" long x
 1.5" diameter!

 YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this  
 one.  Really!


 See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf

 73,
 Steve
 aa8af


> -Original Message-
> From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
> To: Steve
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>
>   Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the  
> size of
>   a beer barrel!!!

 ___
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 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
 Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>>>
>>> ___
>>> Elecraft mailing list
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>>
>>
>>-Jack Brindle, W6FB
>>===
>>
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Kevin Rock]

But, much like the muzzle of a firearm, you do not want to be close when it 
discharges!
Kevin.   KD5ONS



-Original Message-
>From: Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Mar 24, 2006 7:06 PM
>To: Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>
>But not as bad as this one.
>
>That 3KF cap sounds expensive. To buy one, I'd guess you have to  
>charge it...
>
>;-) :-) :-)
>
>
>On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
>
>> In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F  
>> capacitor.  Yes, kiloFarads.  Interesting things are happening in  
>> the super capacitor field.
>>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
>>> To: 'Phil Kane' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>>>
>>>
>>> No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.
>>>
>>> But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About  
>>> 5" long x
>>> 1.5" diameter!
>>>
>>> YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this  
>>> one.  Really!
>>>
>>>
>>> See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Steve
>>> aa8af
>>>
>>>
 -Original Message-
 From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
 To: Steve
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

   Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the  
 size of
   a beer barrel!!!
>>>
>>> ___
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>>
>> ___
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>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
>
>-Jack Brindle, W6FB
>===
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Jack Brindle]

But not as bad as this one.

That 3KF cap sounds expensive. To buy one, I'd guess you have to  
charge it...


;-) :-) :-)


On Mar 24, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:

In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F  
capacitor.  Yes, kiloFarads.  Interesting things are happening in  
the super capacitor field.

 Kevin.  KD5ONS

-Original Message-

From: Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
To: 'Phil Kane' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)


No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.

But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About  
5" long x

1.5" diameter!

YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this  
one.  Really!



See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf

73,
Steve
aa8af



-Original Message-
From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
To: Steve
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

  Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the  
size of

  a beer barrel!!!


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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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Re: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Fred Jensen]

Steve wrote:

No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.

But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About 5" long x
1.5" diameter!

YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this one.  Really!

See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf


Hmmm ... I wonder what the inductance of the 600F cap is?  If it's 
really low, and you could short the terminals with a screwdriver at 10 
milliohms, that would be a pulse of a couple hundred amps, and likely a 
large electrical display.  Conversely, if it is discharged, you probably 
wouldn't want to connect it directly across a 2.5V power supply.  I 
believe capacitors like this are used in the hot rods that boom down the 
road with multi-hundred watt amplifiers.  I'll ask our oldest grandson 
... such electronics take up the whole trunk of his car.


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Kevin Rock]

In one of my trade magazines I recently read of a 3000 F capacitor.  Yes, 
kiloFarads.  Interesting things are happening in the super capacitor field.
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  

-Original Message-
>From: Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Mar 24, 2006 5:19 PM
>To: 'Phil Kane' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>
> 
>No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.
>
>But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About 5" long x
>1.5" diameter!
>
>YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this one.  Really!
>
>
>See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf
>
>73,
>Steve
>aa8af
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
>> To: Steve
>> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
>> 
>>   Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the size of
>>   a beer barrel!!!
>
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Re: [Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Matt Osborn]

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 14:53:26 -0800, "Ron D'Eau Claire"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Matt asked:
>
>The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient signal
>level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.
>
>When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky oscillator
>being sensitive to L4A,  I adjusted the slug while watching at TP1.  Sure
>enough, as the slug was adjusted, TP1 rose from 0VDC to 4.5VDC and then
>started back toward 0VDC as I continued to turn the slug into L4A.
>
>I backed out the slug until TP1 read its maximum of 0.45VDC and then
>continued out until the voltage at TP1 returned to 0VDC.
>
>When oscillating, the frequency measures at 193.995, which is well within
>the accuracy of my frequency counter.
>
>I checked all components and voltages at Q1 & Q2, everything was correct.
>
>I'm sure there are some clues buried in the above observations, but I'm
>unable to sort them out.  Does anyone have any clue as to how I get the
>voltage at TP1 up over 1.0VDC?
>
>---
>
>Is the local oscillator transistor mounted up off the board with a Teflon
>spacer on one lead as shown in the assembly manual? 
>

Hi Ron,

Yes, Q1 is mounted 3/8" high with the teflon spacer.  I was thinking
that the crystal is OK because it oscillates at the correct frequency.

How critical is the MPS 918?  Could I substitute a 2N  in place of
Q1 just to check out the operation of Q2 (BFR96)?  Is that a sensible
thing to do?
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[Elecraft] AGC off problem solved

[Dr. Werner Furlan]

I can report a success with my problem I reported yesterday. 
I changed C8 to 10 pF and now AGC off works as expected. 
Thanks to Gary, Wayne and everybody on the list for their support. 
Its great how this group works together. 

> Wayne suggested this too:
> 
> "The simplest cure for this may be a different capacitor in the
> oscillator that makes it too inefficient at reduced bias to even start. 
> 
> You might try 10 pF at C8 or 680 pF at C7

73! de Werner OE9FWV

-- 
f u cn rd ths, u cn gt a gd jb n cmptr prgmmng


Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at 
Homepage: 
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Mobile  +43 664 6340014
Elecraft K2 #5203

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RE: [Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Matt asked:

The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient signal
level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.

When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky oscillator
being sensitive to L4A,  I adjusted the slug while watching at TP1.  Sure
enough, as the slug was adjusted, TP1 rose from 0VDC to 4.5VDC and then
started back toward 0VDC as I continued to turn the slug into L4A.

I backed out the slug until TP1 read its maximum of 0.45VDC and then
continued out until the voltage at TP1 returned to 0VDC.

When oscillating, the frequency measures at 193.995, which is well within
the accuracy of my frequency counter.

I checked all components and voltages at Q1 & Q2, everything was correct.

I'm sure there are some clues buried in the above observations, but I'm
unable to sort them out.  Does anyone have any clue as to how I get the
voltage at TP1 up over 1.0VDC?

---

Is the local oscillator transistor mounted up off the board with a Teflon
spacer on one lead as shown in the assembly manual? 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Nick Waterman]

Matt Osborn wrote:
> Do we use non-metallic because
> 
> 1. metallic screwdrivers will physically damage the slug?
> 2. metallic screwdrivers will magnetize the slug?
> 3. metallic screwdrivers affect the readings while adjusting?
> 4. other?

Mostly 3 and 1.

-- 
"Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I'm a forgotten man in his (Bobby Robson's) mind.
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RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)

[Steve]

 
No, I wrote correctly.  25 FARADS.

But, this is SMALL in comparison.  Elna offers 600F @ 2.5V.  About 5" long x
1.5" diameter!

YES, 600 Farads.  I kid you not.  I did a double-take on this one.  Really!


See:   http://www.elna.co.jp/en/ct/pdf/DPe.pdf

73,
Steve
aa8af


> -Original Message-
> From: Phil Kane [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:19 PM
> To: Steve
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] potentially interesting (sorry, bad pun)
> 
>   Do you mean 25 uF?  A 25 Farad capacitor would be about the size of
>   a beer barrel!!!

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RE: [Elecraft] RE: Bengali Simplex Keyer

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Connect the paddle you want the dots on to the tip of a stereo 3.5 mm phone
jack, connect the dah paddle to the ring and connect the paddle common
(ground) to the shell - then you can run with INP PDLn, change to INP PDLr
to reverse the connection for those with 'other hand persuasion'.  Of
course, it is just as easy to connect the paddle the other way 'round and
use INP PDLr for your normal usage, switch it if required for visitors.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> I recently purchased the above keyer; I send with my left hand & copy with
> my right hand. I want the dits on the right paddle(thumb) & the
> dahs on the
> left paddle(index finger). Ground in the middle. No wire came
> with it. What
> kind of wire do I need & what wire goes to what to connect it to
> my K2/100?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill
> KE5UD
>
>

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[Elecraft] XV222 Local Oscillator

[Matt Osborn]

The local oscillator on the XV222 will not generate a sufficient
signal level. The voltage measured at TP1 is 0.45VDC.

When first tested, TP1 read 0VDC. Seeing posts about a balky
oscillator being sensitive to L4A,  I adjusted the slug while watching
at TP1.  Sure enough, as the slug was adjusted, TP1 rose from 0VDC to
4.5VDC and then started back toward 0VDC as I continued to turn the
slug into L4A.

I backed out the slug until TP1 read its maximum of 0.45VDC and then
continued out until the voltage at TP1 returned to 0VDC.

When oscillating, the frequency measures at 193.995, which is well
within the accuracy of my frequency counter.

I checked all components and voltages at Q1 & Q2, everything was
correct.

I'm sure there are some clues buried in the above observations, but
I'm unable to sort them out.  Does anyone have any clue as to how I
get the voltage at TP1 up over 1.0VDC?

PS

I know we are suppose to use non-metallic tools to adjust inductor
slugs, but L4A is so tight that the adjusting tool that came with the
kit is useless, its nylon shoulders promptly rounded off.  Having
spare slugs, I tried adjusting L4A slug with a thin metal screwdriver.

Do we use non-metallic because

1. metallic screwdrivers will physically damage the slug?
2. metallic screwdrivers will magnetize the slug?
3. metallic screwdrivers affect the readings while adjusting?
4. other?

I do have spares from L10, L11 & L19, so I can replace the slug if
needed.
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RE: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)

[Ken Alexander]

--- Dan Barker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> not tempted to get very high again.

There's a dope smokin' joke in there just screamin' to
get out!

Sorry to hear about your fall...sounds like it was a
nasty one.  If it had to happen, I hope it was at
least in pursuit of a better antenna system!

73,

Ken Alexander
VE3HLS
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Re: [Elecraft] Heat strippable enamel wire

[Alexandra Carter]

In my experience, it's ALL heat strippable! Your mileage and smells may 
vary!


73 de Alex NS6Y

On Mar 24, 2006, at 12:17 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Before I go and order the wrong thing, can someone tell me a Mouser or 
Dig-Key (or other) reference number for heat strippable enamel covered 
wire similar to that which is provided with the Elecraft kits.


Thanks,
Tom, WB2QDG
K2 1103

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[Elecraft] Heat strippable enamel wire

[thom2]

Before I go and order the wrong thing, can someone tell me a Mouser or Dig-Key 
(or other) reference number for heat strippable enamel covered wire similar to 
that which is provided with the Elecraft kits.

Thanks,
Tom, WB2QDG
K2 1103

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[Dick Ballard]

I use a method similar to my home installation of a 100 foot spool of
#16 insulated "primary" wire hanging from a limb high up in a big fir
tree. At home it drops from a 70 foot branch at a 45° angle. The
copper plumbing system in the crawl space is the "ground" half of the
system.

When camping I use the Hyperdog sling shot with mason's line and a 6
oz lead fishing weight to get my 100 foot wire as high as possible
into an available tree. I have another similar spool of wire which
could be the other half of a dipole if another tree is available. But
usually I just string it along the ground somewhere under the first
wire to act as a sort of radial.

I've used this method with my Icom703 and an MFJ-945C antenna tuner.
When camping, I use a short coax between the tuner and a binding post
adapter for the wires. That adapter ends up being quite low on a short
pole with only about 10-15 feet of coax from the tuner (which also
keeps losses at bay with the higher SWR's in this arrangement).

I set up the MFJ in the middle of a band (without the 703 tuner
engaged) and then use the 703 tuner to refine the match when I move
within the band. The MFJ settings are recorded so I can quickly switch
between bands. The resulting angles of this type of antenna produce a
mix of pattern and propagation characteristics of both horizontal and
vertical antennas.

Dick Ballard W7AND
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Beaverton OR (near Portland)


On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 08:09:20 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who 
>responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).
>   
>  Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20 meters) 
> when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites have only one 
> tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop to the ground 
> etc.
>  What do most of you guys use when camping?
>   
>  Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.
>   
>  Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range

[Ralph Tyrrell]

Rick:
I have K1 #1423 which I build 3 years ago. I first
went with the 150 KHz tuning, it was way to touchy and
I changed it to 80 KHz.
Lately I have wanted to work just above 7.1 MHz and I
opened up the K1 and put a silver mica 22 pfd in
parallel with C2. I put it on top of the board. 
I now get up to 7118 KHz and an finding quite a bit of
CW above 7.1.

The K1 is my only HF rig. A K2 sure would be nice.

73, Ty, W1TF


Rick wrote . . . Has anyone gone from 80khz to 150khz
and regretted  the change?Rick - K7MW

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[Elecraft] RE: Antenna in a Bowl (WAS: Underground Antennas)

[Dan Barker]

Ron, thanks for the thoughtful reply. I bet that describing the bowl in
NECeese will be harder than talking someone up two trees 50' or so. I'd love
a Loop Skywire again, but it might be harder to talk Carl up FOUR trees.

If the models don't make bowl specification easy, or even possible, then a
doublet as high as I can manage will have to do.

It sure would be sweet if that bowl/knife-edge combined to make the low loop
not just a cloud-warmer. I wonder how many other culniary terms I could have
gotten into that sentence if I'd really tried?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


You might actually have another effect at play at your QTH that may gain you
some unexpected results: knife-edge effect.



So it is, at best, as guess based on assumptions. (Did I really say that?)


Yes, you did say that, Ron. Join me as I assume the site survey can be input
as easily as into Chief Architect (yeah, right).


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Re: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)

[Vic K2VCO]

Dan Barker wrote:


Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?


It would probably work adequately as an NVIS (near vertical incidence 
something-or-other) antenna.  In other words, you would have *very* 
strong signals out to a couple of hundred miles on 40 meters, a little 
less on 80.  It will not work well for longer paths, although I'm sure 
there will be surprises.


However, I would prefer a doublet if the loop has to go around houses, 
etc.  The reason is that a loop will magnetically couple to house 
wiring, etc., making it much more prone to RFI and to noise pickup.  A 
simple doublet at this height, fed with ladder line and tuned by a good 
balanced tuner will probably work as well or better than the loop with 
fewer problems.  You won't work a lot of DX with it, but you will have 
good local coverage.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Antenna in a Bowl (WAS: Underground Antennas)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Dan, WG4S asked:

Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?

We just moved into a new place with NO ANTENNA RESTRICTIONS, but I fell down
hard last summer (3 weeks unconscious in ICU) and am not tempted to get very
high again.

All this talk about on-ground and under-ground antennas made me think of
hanging a W0MHS Loop-Skywire at a low height. That a LOT of copperweld for
something that hasn't a chance. I'd hire someone to hang a doublet if I
thought it would be much better. But the whole neighborhood is in a hole,
about 75 feet below the prevailing terrain, so even a 50' doublet is really
25' underground.

The hole is several wavelengths wide, so from my roof, the tops of the trees
on the "rim" are up about 25 degrees, so very low DX takeoff just ain't
gonna happen.

Maybe it's time I learned if I can run one of those Antenna Modelers. Should
I look for Windoze or Linux flavors?



What affects the pattern is how the wavefront interacts with the earth. That
is a function of the polarization of the wave. A horizontal loop and a
horizontal dipole or a horizontal doublet will behave the same in terms of
the basic pattern affecting the angle of radiation above the horizon. 

At 3 meters (10 feet) you'll have a good "cloud-warmer" or what the new Hams
call an NVIS antenna all HF bands. (You start to see significant lower-angle
radiation when the antenna is about 3/8 wavelengths above the ground and it
peaks at just over 1/2 wave above the ground. Above that height you still
get FB low-angle radiation, but you lose some of the gain at good DX angles
provided by the earth reflections. 

For high-angle propagation, the ideal height is 0.2 wavelengths effective
height. I say "effective" because the effective height is not always the
actual height. Since the earth is a lossy dielectric instead of a decent
conductor, the actual height is somewhere below ground level. Measuring from
the surface of the earth is close enough. Ground losses increase as the
antenna is brought closer, but it will still radiate reasonably well even at
very low elevations. 

My doublet is about 25 feet high. That's also very low for 80 meters; it's
definitely a "cloud warmer". I work out to about 1,200 miles with it on 80
with usually excellent signal reports out to at least 700 or 800 miles.
That's pretty typical range for short-skip propagation. 

You might actually have another effect at play at your QTH that may gain you
some unexpected results: knife-edge effect. When a radio wave passes the
edge of the earth, such as the edges of the "bowl" you live in, the part of
the wave in contact with the earth slows down in the earth. That tilts the
wave to a lower angle. It also costs signal strength, since that earth is
still a lousy, lossy dielectric, but the end result may be some surprising
low-angle propagation from a "cloud warmer" antenna. 

Something else you might consider is an "inverted V" arrangement with one
tall pole at the center, since you have no antenna restrictions. Years ago I
rented a house and was loath to clamber about on the roof, so I picked up a
push-up TV mast. It collapsed to about 10 feet and extended to a full 50
feet. It held the center of my inverted V antenna whose ends came down to
the eaves at one corner of the house in front and to the fence in the back.
No climbing, no high altitude work, but a nice high HF antenna. My radiator
was 130 feet long and fed with open wire line. It did a decent job as a
Cloud Warmer on 160 and got out very well for DX contacts on the other
bands. If you use open wire line, keep it away from the pole. To avoid
messing around with standoffs, etc., I ran the open wire line away from the
pole at an angle equidistant from the legs to a point along the fence, then
to the shack. Just keeping it two or three times the width of the feeders
will do. Of course, with coax you have no worries. 

Of course, I guyed the pole at full height. It was sitting on the ground and
attached to the eaves about 8 feet up on a side of the house that had no
gutter. Mounted like that I could extend it without guys on a calm day with
plenty of guy wire with excess lengths attached to rings as they were
hoisted.   I then attached the guy wires with only minimal climbing on a
short stepladder to reach tie-points on the fence and eaves as needed. With
good marine pulley and halyard at the top, I didn't have to move the mast
again. I could take the antenna down as needed standing on my patio!

For modeling, I use EZNEC from W7EL (www.eznec.com) It runs under windows.
Just remember that a modeling program is only as good as the assumptions you
make for it. So it is, at best, as guess based on assumptions. (Did I really
say that?) 

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)

[Dan Barker]

Anybody have any idea how an 80m loop would work at 3m height?

We just moved into a new place with NO ANTENNA RESTRICTIONS, but I fell down
hard last summer (3 weeks unconscious in ICU) and am not tempted to get very
high again.

All this talk about on-ground and under-ground antennas made me think of
hanging a W0MHS Loop-Skywire at a low height. That a LOT of copperweld for
something that hasn’t a chance. I’d hire someone to hang a doublet if I
thought it would be much better. But the whole neighborhood is in a hole,
about 75 feet below the prevailing terrain, so even a 50’ doublet is really
25’ underground.

The hole is several wavelengths wide, so from my roof, the tops of the trees
on the “rim” are up about 25 degrees, so very low DX takeoff just ain’t
gonna happen.

Maybe it’s time I learned if I can run one of those Antenna Modelers. Should
I look for Windoze or Linux flavors?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


The only "ground" antenna I worked with was a 270 ft. horizontal loop
made from #28 enemeled wire.  It was in a pentagon shape and laying
right on the ground.


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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[Daniel Reynolds]

Along those same lines - back about 10 years ago while trying to participate in
field day with a group of local hams at a cabin in the U.P. of Michigan, I
ended up stringing an 80m dipole up about 6-10 feet off the ground, and made
dozens of contacts within 500 miles (MI, WI, MN, IA, IL, IN). I don't think I
was QRP (I believe it was a TenTec Scout at 50W), but it worked well, and I had
alot of fun.

Daniel AA0NI
Oklahoma City

--- Robert Tellefsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Dick
> Don't let just a single tree in a campsite hold you back.
> Use it and have fun.  Drooping dipoles work just fine.
> 
> When the xyl and I were camping in Oregon, there were only some
> rose bushes by our campsite and no trees.  So I laid out my
> 40m dipole over the bushes, about 4 ft above ground, fired
> up my old HW-8 and had a number of nice QSOs.  Great time,
> sitting at the picnic table with my lantern and a 12v lantern
> battery for the HW-8.
> 
> Good luck and 73
> Bob N6WG
> The Little Station with Attitude
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
> Richard Powers
> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:09 AM
> To: Elecraft
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas
> 
> 
> Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who
> responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).
> 
>   Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20
> meters) when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites have
> only one tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop to the
> ground etc.
>   What do most of you guys use when camping?
> 
>   Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.
> 
>   Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP
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[Elecraft] Email difficulties to sales or Lisa

[Lisa Jones - Elecraft Sales]

If you sent an email between March 15th and 1:00Pm (noon) Tuesday, March 
21st to either [EMAIL PROTECTED]  or [EMAIL PROTECTED] your email may 
have been lost in an email crash on my computer. If you have not 
received a reply to an email sent during that time please resend your email.


Due to a major email "known problem" ( not to me) with Outlook ( be sure 
you do not go over 2GB in your Outlook files) emails sent to 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] between March 15th and approximately 
1:00PM on Tuesday, March 21st may have been lost.


I believe that all but a few emails sent the morning of the 21st were 
answered. But I could only recover prior to the 16th of March and after 
1:00pm on the 21st.


NOTE:** There is NO problem with orders placed on the internet or any 
other Elecraft emails, only those emails sent to "sales" or "lisa".


I apologize for any inconvenience and just wanted you all to know I was 
not ignoring you!


Lisa
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[james1787]

I have a portable dipole that I use for camping. I bought it off ebay. 
The doublets each roll up in a plastic wind-up contraption. It's kind 
of like a yo yo tenna deluxe (not made by the same company). The center 
insulator has two screw terminals that I connect my 300 ohm ladder line 
to.


I've found it's easy to set it up as an inverted vee. I really only 
have to get the center up as high as I can. Getting the end of the 
doublets up semi-high is no big deal. It's alot less time and less 
aggravation then trying to set it up in a true dipole configuration 
with both ends being up. From NJ running 5 watts into the antenna I 
worked Switzerland with no problem.


73,

James KB2FCV

-Original Message-
From: Robert Tellefsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Richard Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Elecraft 


Sent: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 08:45:31 -0800
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

Dick
Don't let just a single tree in a campsite hold you back.
Use it and have fun.  Drooping dipoles work just fine.

When the xyl and I were camping in Oregon, there were only some
rose bushes by our campsite and no trees.  So I laid out my
40m dipole over the bushes, about 4 ft above ground, fired
up my old HW-8 and had a number of nice QSOs.  Great time,
sitting at the picnic table with my lantern and a 12v lantern
battery for the HW-8.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Richard Powers
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:09 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas


Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who
responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the 
way).


 Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20
meters) when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites 
have
only one tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop 
to the

ground etc.
 What do most of you guys use when camping?

 Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.

 Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP
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[Elecraft] RE:- Now Camping - Antennas

[Craig D. Smith]

For 20 meters my favorite is a ground plane.  Use a 20 foot "Black Widow"
telescoping fishing pole for a support.  Clip one end of a 16.5 foot AWG 26
wire to the loop at the tip with a fishing swivel.  Support the pole with a
single peg driven into the ground (slip the pole over the peg).  Twist the
pole to spiral the wire around the pole a couple times to keep it from
blowing in the wind.  The bottom end the wire will now be about 4 ft above
the ground.  I use a female BNC to terminate the bottom end of the wire.  I
secure the BNC to the pole with a Velcro wrap, but a piece of tape would
work as well.  Cut 3 radials each 16.5 ft long and attach to the ground side
of the BNC.  A light cord at the end of each radial then runs to 3 tent
stakes which are positioned to keep the radials off the ground and act as
support guys for the pole.  Feed with run of RG58 to your rig.  This will
give you nice low angle radiation for working DX on 20.  The internal tuner
in any of the Elecraft rigs will also easily tune it on 30, 17 and 15.  Last
time I had it up, I worked New Zealand from Colorado with 5W on 15 meters.
If you precut the wires and make all the connections ahead of time, this
antenna can easily be put up by one person in 10 minutes.  The poles are
available from Cabellas for $17 if I remember correctly.  Quite a bargain -
I bought two.

If you're more horizontally oriented and want to go first class, the
Buddipole system will give you lots of options for dipoles on several bands
as well as the ability to configure verticals.  Buddipole dipoles at their
normal 10 to 20 foot heights will give you higher angle radiation than the
ground plane, which may be desirable if you're after stateside QSOs rather
than chasing DX.

   Have fun in the woods!
 ... Craig   AC0DS




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[Elecraft] please submit your EQP scores

[wayne burdick]

Many EQP submissions have come in. Thanks!

We're hoping to have all EQP scores in by April 12th, but in honor of 
income-tax time in the U.S., we'll extend it to the 17th  :)


73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Bengali Simplex Keyer

[Vic K2VCO]

Bill Striegel wrote:


I recently purchased the above keyer; I send with my left hand & copy with
my right hand. I want the dits on the right paddle(thumb) & the dahs on the
left paddle(index finger). Ground in the middle. No wire came with it. What
kind of wire do I need & what wire goes to what to connect it to my K2/100?


You want shielded wire with two conductors inside the shield.  Use the 
shield as the ground connection.  Connect the wire from the dit paddle 
to the tip of a 1/8" stereo plug and the one from the dah paddle to the 
ring.  The shield, of course, goes to the shaft of the plug.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[Robert Tellefsen]

Dick
Don't let just a single tree in a campsite hold you back.
Use it and have fun.  Drooping dipoles work just fine.

When the xyl and I were camping in Oregon, there were only some
rose bushes by our campsite and no trees.  So I laid out my
40m dipole over the bushes, about 4 ft above ground, fired
up my old HW-8 and had a number of nice QSOs.  Great time,
sitting at the picnic table with my lantern and a 12v lantern
battery for the HW-8.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Richard Powers
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:09 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas


Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who
responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).

  Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20
meters) when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites have
only one tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop to the
ground etc.
  What do most of you guys use when camping?

  Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.

  Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[Bob Towers]

I use one of these 8 foot long two-piece magmount verticals for 20 metres. I 
just put it on top of the car - or a sheet of metal if I don't have the car - 
and it works a treat. Doesn't even need an ATU.

I've managed the States and Japan miles from here with 4 watts RTTY no problem.

73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)

[Sandy W5TVW]

The only "ground" antenna I worked with was a 270 ft. horizontal loop
made from #28 enemeled wire.  It was in a pentagon shape and laying 
right on the ground.
It loaded well with my antenna coupler thru a 1:1 homemade balun 
wound on a big 4" ferrite toroid form with about 12 turns trifilar
wound #18 solid hookup wire.  
I worked quite well I thought, except the signals incoming and outgoing were
down about 20 db.  Even did a few QSO's on 40 and 20 meters with it
QRP with the K1.
NOT the most effective antenna by any means, but surely a good 
'stealth' antenna for people in stuffy subdivisions with those stupid
covenants!  If I were going to make it a permanent installation
I'd use some single conductor #14 solid insulated wire from Home Depot
for protection against breakage.  Any "Nosy Neighborhood Association"
idiot snoop could be told it was a wire to keep dogs off your lawn,
or to keep you dog in your yard with a special collar.
Such an antenna would be a whole lot better than a short loaded whip 
or some other less desirable rigup.
73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: "Stuart Rohre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "elecraft" 

Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Underground Antennas (WAS: Ham Ingenuity)


| Hee, hee.  Bet you did not expect someone to report they had experience with 
| underwater antennas, but I have been on an experimental project to put the 
| Rogers "FLEX" Folded Conical Helical HF antenna on a submerged vessel. 
| (Written up in IEEE Transactions on Antennas and Propagation)
| 
| Of course, it was not used while submerged.
| 
| I also had some HF antennas on ocean buoys that wash over pretty regularly 
| in a high sea, so it is operated underwater part of the time.  Signal drops 
| as you would expect.  At 5 watts power, they were not going to work well 
| when in washover.  SWR goes crazy, but they right themselves pretty quick 
| and that is what foldback SWR protection is for.  Rig was FT 5 watter.
| 
| -Stuart
| K5KVH 
| 
| 
| 
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| 
| 
| 
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.0/290 - Release Date: 3/23/2006
| 
| 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

[Richard Powers]

Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who 
responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).
   
  Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20 meters) 
when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites have only one 
tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop to the ground etc.
  What do most of you guys use when camping?
   
  Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.
   
  Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP
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Re: [Elecraft] AD9850 chip available for the asking

[n2htt]

Thanks all, chip is spoken for.
73,
Mike

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Friday, March 24, 2006 9:38 am
Subject: [Elecraft] AD9850 chip available for the asking

> I have an Analog Devices 9850 DDS clock drive chip that I requested 
> from the manufacturer about a year ago, intending to build one of 
> the DDS VFO boards available from AMQRP. Well, I never did, and now 
> that board is no longer available, the new one uses an updated 9851 
> chip.
> I hate to discard usable stuff, so if anyone on the list can use 
> this chip, I will be happy to send it free of charge. 
> 
> Chip is in the original ESD-safe packaging, never opened.
> 
> Please respond to me off the list.
> 
> 73,
> Mike N2HTT
> 
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[Elecraft] RE: Bengali Simplex Keyer

[Bill Striegel]

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 9:26 AM
To: elecraft - qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range
I recently purchased the above keyer; I send with my left hand & copy with
my right hand. I want the dits on the right paddle(thumb) & the dahs on the
left paddle(index finger). Ground in the middle. No wire came with it. What
kind of wire do I need & what wire goes to what to connect it to my K2/100?

Thanks.

Bill
KE5UD

Russ Tobolic wrote:
> Rick;
> 
> I recently completed K1 2136 and went with the 120pF VFO capacitor. This 
> gave me a tuning range of approx 178KHz and 15KHz/rev which is just a 
> "little" touchy but not difficult.  It depends on how stable your 
> fingers are when tuning.  I may try 100pF to make it just a bit easier.
> 
has anyone tried one of these on the K1 to help with the tuning rate?
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p101.htm

-- 
GB de ka5oai,
Sam Morgan

--
linux - the lifetime learning experience
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range

[Sam Morgan]

Russ Tobolic wrote:

Rick;

I recently completed K1 2136 and went with the 120pF VFO capacitor. This 
gave me a tuning range of approx 178KHz and 15KHz/rev which is just a 
"little" touchy but not difficult.  It depends on how stable your 
fingers are when tuning.  I may try 100pF to make it just a bit easier.



has anyone tried one of these on the K1 to help with the tuning rate?
http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p101.htm

--
GB de ka5oai,
Sam Morgan

--
linux - the lifetime learning experience
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[Elecraft] Parts Storage

[Steve & Anne Ray]

I use the Brass Pro Shops, storage box, for sorting caps and other non
electrostatic sensitive components.   The box I like is the model 370, as it
has adjustable dividers and the price is right.  I would never use them for
electrostatic components.  Keep your electrostatic components in antistatic
foam or in a antistatic bag and use a grounded wrist strap.

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=13316&hvarDept=100&;
hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=11&hvarSubCode=9&hvarTarget=browse
 
I have no connection with the Bass Pro Shop, just like this product.
 
72,
Steve Ray K4JPN ex K1VKW
EM82ep Warner Robins GA
Elecraft K2 1422 & KPA-100
Heath Fan HW-101, HW-8
http://www.thewinstonator.com/k4jpn.htm
 

 


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[Elecraft] many thanks for ridge vent comments

[Albers]

All,

Looks like I really set off a minor comment explosion when I posted my 
questions on using  ridge-vents as antennas! It's amazing how we Elecrafters 
jump in to offer comments and help. 

I appreciate all your helpful comments, info and suggestions, and look forward 
to doing more experimentation over the coming months (heck, I need to wait a 
couple of months until it gets unbearably hot in the attic anyway - just as I 
need to wait until a deep winter freeze before attempting any outside antenna 
work!) and will post any interesting results here.

73
Ray K2HYD
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[Elecraft] AD9850 chip available for the asking

[n2htt]

I have an Analog Devices 9850 DDS clock drive chip that I requested from the 
manufacturer about a year ago, intending to build one of the DDS VFO boards 
available from AMQRP. Well, I never did, and now that board is no longer 
available, the new one uses an updated 9851 chip.

I hate to discard usable stuff, so if anyone on the list can use this chip, I 
will be happy to send it free of charge. 

Chip is in the original ESD-safe packaging, never opened.

Please respond to me off the list.

73,
Mike N2HTT

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RE: [Elecraft] RE: ridge vent as antenna?

[Paul T. Rubin]

> Another possibility for overcoming your limitation is to use weather
balloons to loft your antenna:  http://www.allsopp.co.uk/
They have many different sizes of balloons to choose from. You could
easily use a vertical antenna, and raise it several hundred feet without
a problem. Just make sure you're not too close to an airport.


or a power line. What goes up very often comes down...un-expectantly.

Paul N8NOV


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RE: [QRP-L] KX1 rx filter query

[Mike Scott]

Steve,
You can download free acoustic spectrogram software that will run on a PC;
at least it is free for ten-day use. I run the KX1 audio out into my PC
microphone input. There is a link to the spectrogram software on the
Elecraft website. It is commonly used to peak a K2. It works great to peak
the KX1 receiver trimmer capacitors also (so does an AC voltmeter).

My KX1 filter peaks are noticeable on narrow settings. I used the
Visualization software and characterized my receiver response as follows
(- 6 dB low frequency, peak frequency, - 6 dB high frequency):

Filter setting  -6dB Low F  Peak Audio F-6dB High F

Maximum 159 Hz  592 Hz  1214 Hz 
1.0 259 Hz  500 Hz  697 Hz  
0.5 321 Hz  442 Hz  554 Hz  
Min 337 Hz  444 Hz  516 Hz

You can see in the data that the 6dB down points on the minimum bandwidth
filter setting is less than 200 Hz wide and is more than 1 KHz wide at
maximum setting, quite noticeable to the ear.

I am not experienced with filter design but I notice that the filter uses
varactor tuning of the second and third stages of the crystal filter.
Varactor tuning looks like it should bend the resonance of the second two
stages lower. So the end effect should lower the frequency of the central
peak of the total response as the filter is narrowed.
On mine the peak moves from approximately 600 Hz (filter design point) down
to less than 450 Hz. I can lose a weak signal if I zero beat (600 Hz offset)
and then narrow the filter. I have to use RIT to then peak it again at a
lower offset.

Because of the effect of needing to retune on narrower filter settings, I
made a small modification to my BFO. I paralleled a 10pf capacitor across
C13 to create a lower offset, around 500 Hz. I now zero beat at 500 Hz and
have acceptable signal at all filter settings.

I can hear very strong signals on the opposite side band; I have not
measured the rejection on my unit but I find it acceptable. 

When I think back to my Novice days in 1969, this is a much better receiver
than the Heathkit HR10 I had in those days. Elecraft did a nice job.

Mike Scott
 
Tarzana, CA
Phone (818) 708-9722
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of n0tu/Steve
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 5:23 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net qrp-l
Subject: [QRP-L] KX1 rx filter query

I had a blast working the Foxes last nite on 40/80 with K1 and KX1
with 100MW to full throttle 5w depending on cndx. It's like
fly-fishing with with the lightest weight gear you can find and if you
land one you'd better be careful to give him all the line he needs but
not to much or he'll snag ya and walk away. Ok, so much for the
fishiin analogy. Back to QRP radio.

I notice however my KX1's rx filer is nowhere as clean as as my K1's?
It's been awhile since I built both rigs. I know they're different
designs etc. But my KX1 I can often hear the opposite sideband note
coming through when in 1KHz or even 500hz positions. K1 seems to have
stronger rejection in this area? Also the K1's peak is very pronounced
...as I switch thru the filters the signal amost appers to increase in
signal strength (assume this is just because the qrm in being reduced
by the filter?) BUT on my KX1 when incresing filtration the desire
signal stays the same or even gets slightly weaker? It almost sounds
like there's no peak or if there is it's low and broad? Sorry I don't
have any audio SW to analyze what I'm hearing. Can't load any on this
business PC or the IT folks go nutz anyway. I'm just wondering if I
have a fried xtal in my xtal filer in the KX1? I should try and find a
local who has a KX1 and do a side by side comparison. That would tell
the story. Sure love the radio inspite of the issue. Hasn't stopped me
from many enjoyable QSOs from my tent in the woods.

To summarize my question is: does your KX1's filter sound as good as
the K1's or K2's in your opinion?

Steve/n0tu and Rooster/Peanut my 2-pack goats
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range

[Russ Tobolic]

Rick;

I recently completed K1 2136 and went with the 120pF VFO capacitor. This 
gave me a tuning range of approx 178KHz and 15KHz/rev which is just a 
"little" touchy but not difficult.  It depends on how stable your fingers 
are when tuning.  I may try 100pF to make it just a bit easier.


Russ, N3CO
K2 4016
K1 2136

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Dettinger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:20 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 tuning range



I have built 2 K1 kits and used the 80khz tuning range both times without 
much thought, as I only needed 20khz or so for all my work.  This has never 
seemed to be a limitation, until now.  I have been working the straight key 
century club (skcc) freq. of 7120khz so have to use my K2 or Sierra.  This 
hardly constitutes a hardship at home but I would like to be able to use my 
K1 on this freq.  when portable, since it is my rig of choice away from the 
home shack.  It seems like 15khz per revolution should not be a problem. 
This is still slower than my Sierra tuning rate of about 20khz.  I did put a 
very large knob on the Sierra which helps fine tuning.  Has anyone gone from 
80khz to 150khz and regretted  the change?Rick - K7MW


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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.5/284 - Release Date: 3/17/2006


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RE: [Elecraft] RE: ridge vent as antenna?

[Dale Putnam]

A while ago, with new bride, one child, and a burning need to get on the 
air.. in a rented house... in a neighborhood that had rf haters... (tv sets 
that waited for the joy to pounce upon a piece of unsuspecting rf scooting 
by, like a starved cat on a mouse)... I found myself wanting a good dx 
antenna and condx were such that 40 would be just about right. So up 
went a #40 wire dipole...
next day: down went the dipole... victim to a low flying bird... or 
wind...so... up went an end fed
#40 wire, in a different direction, and somewhat protected from flying 
animals... I thought.
Wrong! this time, bride mentioned that the spiderweb over the clothes line 
just wasn't going to work out well. She was right... it didn't... either for 
her or me.
 Somewhat square house one story high not a flat roof, but pretty 
much ok to walk on...
how do you get a vertical up there without being seen... no the street 
lights were too bright too.
Besides... standing a flag pole on your roof was outta the question. ... 
WAIT!!
What? A downspout... and it was just outside the window of the hamshack 
too... yep and metal too. But how do you cut a gutter to seperate it from 
the downspo... vertical?  tape measure in hand... can't believe it... no.. 
it can't be... yep.. sure is.. the gutter was a half wave long on 40. AND... 
another downspout too... WOW this is wild... how lucky can I be? A pair of 
verticals on 40...
Someone named Bob with a short behind made one of these right?   It worked 
too... rather nicely... but... oh no... sure enuff... there was another pair 
of them on the other side of the house...
Now... I am in fat city.. two Bob's window covers WOW... then... then 
just a bit more thought... and walking around. and get the tape out... 
two more pieces of wire... across the roof... and it becomes a ... a ... 
square for a square for  well sure silly... a square for working 40 
mter dx.   And it DiD too.! Very nicely... and pretty much to the shagrin of 
all the tv sets it did it without detection too.   Except for one old tv 
that would not give up... was very good a catching rf... it was... but that 
is another story... for another time.


There is always a way.. sometimes we just don't see it for the way we think 
we want.


--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S qrp in Wy.. were the pavement ends and the West begins..
and rf usually doesn't have much of a problem launching... there ain't no 
trees.







From: "Lanier, Robert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Subject: [Elecraft] RE: ridge vent as antenna?
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:45:47 -0500


>   Has anyone had any experience using ridge vents as antenna
> (or part of an antenna)? Effect of rain wetting the roof
> shingles?  Comments??
>
>   73
>   Ray K2HYD
>

Ray,

Another possibility for overcoming your limitation is to use weather
balloons to loft your antenna:  http://www.allsopp.co.uk/
They have many different sizes of balloons to choose from. You could
easily use a vertical antenna, and raise it several hundred feet without
a problem. Just make sure you're not too close to an airport.

Tony  K4YYZ
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[QRP-L] KX1 rx filter query

[n0tu/Steve]

I had a blast working the Foxes last nite on 40/80 with K1 and KX1
with 100MW to full throttle 5w depending on cndx. It's like
fly-fishing with with the lightest weight gear you can find and if you
land one you'd better be careful to give him all the line he needs but
not to much or he'll snag ya and walk away. Ok, so much for the
fishiin analogy. Back to QRP radio.

I notice however my KX1's rx filer is nowhere as clean as as my K1's?
It's been awhile since I built both rigs. I know they're different
designs etc. But my KX1 I can often hear the opposite sideband note
coming through when in 1KHz or even 500hz positions. K1 seems to have
stronger rejection in this area? Also the K1's peak is very pronounced
...as I switch thru the filters the signal amost appers to increase in
signal strength (assume this is just because the qrm in being reduced
by the filter?) BUT on my KX1 when incresing filtration the desire
signal stays the same or even gets slightly weaker? It almost sounds
like there's no peak or if there is it's low and broad? Sorry I don't
have any audio SW to analyze what I'm hearing. Can't load any on this
business PC or the IT folks go nutz anyway. I'm just wondering if I
have a fried xtal in my xtal filer in the KX1? I should try and find a
local who has a KX1 and do a side by side comparison. That would tell
the story. Sure love the radio inspite of the issue. Hasn't stopped me
from many enjoyable QSOs from my tent in the woods.

To summarize my question is: does your KX1's filter sound as good as
the K1's or K2's in your opinion?

Steve/n0tu and Rooster/Peanut my 2-pack goats
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[Elecraft] RE: ridge vent as antenna?

[Lanier, Robert]

   
>   Has anyone had any experience using ridge vents as antenna 
> (or part of an antenna)? Effect of rain wetting the roof 
> shingles?  Comments??
>
>   73
>   Ray K2HYD
> 

Ray,

Another possibility for overcoming your limitation is to use weather
balloons to loft your antenna:  http://www.allsopp.co.uk/
They have many different sizes of balloons to choose from. You could
easily use a vertical antenna, and raise it several hundred feet without
a problem. Just make sure you're not too close to an airport.

Tony  K4YYZ 
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RE: [Elecraft] Another powersupply question

[Dr. Werner Furlan]

hi all, 

> For most uses
> the RF noise is unimportant and it's one of the most difficult things for
> many who use these supplies to assess without actually trying the unit in
> the shack. 

I agree, but I found out that a coarse measure for the quality of the supply is 
just its weight. Plastic cases are lightweight and bad shielding. _No_ torroids 
are lightweight and do not shield RF. So look for metal cases, many toroids 
and the chance will be better that you will not have EMI problems with your 
switching power supply. 

The last one I kicked into the wastebin was delivered with my network 
camera. (and it had nearly no weight)  I had to replace it with a linear PS to 
enjoy 80m on my K2. 

73! de Werner
OE9FWV


--  
 Q: How many surrealists does it take to screw in a lightbulb?
 A: Two.  One to hold the giraffe and the other to fill the bathtub
  with brightly colored machine tools.



PGP-Key: 
Fone +43 5522 75013
Fax +43 820 555 85 2621
Mobile  +43 664 6340014
K2 #5203
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[Elecraft] Re Containers for parts sorting

[ron_w]

One item for sorting parts I haven't seen mentioned is glazed earthenware 
...the XYL here has some very nice shallow dishes with sloping sides 
that "go missing" when I have a kit on the bench! They are quite solid and 
not so easily flipped over if something is leaned on them during use( I 
bet some of you have catapaulted components out of a light container?)  If 
you get really rough they are very cheap to replace.that hasn't been 
necessary here ...yet...
As mentioned, the piece of antistatic foam takes some beating for sorting 
caps out, and sorting containers shouldn't be required for the CMOS chips 
and FET's as Elecraft have them already in anti-static containers. It's 
just a matter of taking the precautions when you install them, and the 
Manual is pretty specific on how to go about that.

FWIW
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 23, Issue 26

[alan alan]

Greetings all,

We had an interesting time a few years ago in the UK when PLT (power
line telecomms) was a new threat.  We built a mains supply to spec
complete with street lighting standards and then tested various power
line transmission proposals for radiation.  Needless to say it
radiated, even when the light standards were disconnected.  The test
results were all very well but it was all summed up quite nicely
when, still without the light standards, the amateurs in the
technical group held 57 (if not 59) QSOs with most of continental
europe on QPR rigs.

The cable isnt underground in the rf sense, its just in a different
dielectric medium and -2ft AGL.

Regards   Alan G0HIQ

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...Doesn't that give the lie to our historical claims that you
can put
  the usual utility lines underground but not radio antennas?

  I guess that with enough power one can put any antenna underground
  (GWEN) or even underwater (SUBCOMM) but let's not give my wife any
  more ammunition!!

  Has anyone here tried it?

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane





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Re: [Elecraft] Containers for sorting parts

[Nick Waterman]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> So, what is the preferred safe container??  Is the semi hard plastic
> utility box ok?  I don't have any metal containers which are
> suitable..

For ICs and transistors, I prefer to use the black antistatic foam that
Elecraft ships them in. there's usually a bit more space for some of the
other transistors that came bagged.

Caps, I prefer to push through a thin sheet of paper. This not only
keeps them together and groups them, but I can scribble the values on
the paper too, in readable-sized writing!

Diodes too, if there's enough of them to deserve sorting, though they're
usually a lot easier to re-read.

Resistors are usually in nicely-sorted build-order strips, so once
you've worked out which end to start, it's easy peasy. If they're NOT in
pre-sorted strips, I'll do something similar to the caps.

Resistor packs are a bit of a pain because the numbers never seem to
QUITE match up with what the manual asks for, but when inventorying,
it's usually easy enough to work out what matches what because the
quantities match and most of the last few digits are about right. I then
scribble the REAL number next to the part in the parts list so I can
double-check later when I've lost count.

Hardware you can use whatever you like. To be honest, apart from some
kits having 3 different sized screws, I've not had much trouble digging
the hardware bits out of a bag. In the parts list I'll sometimes
scribble "big", "medium", "small", so then when the manual says "fix
using some-horrible-imperial-unit stand-offs" I can quickly check, "ah
yup, that's the small ones".

-- 
"Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Did you know: Pearls melt in vinegar.
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