Re: [Elecraft] The Complete DXer - OT

2008-02-23 Thread Dave Andrus

Ed:

Back in the waning days of the Vietnam conflict, I was flying C-130  
aircraft (not as a pilot--but I wish I could've!).  When doing the  
long, boring rides over the Pacific from the Philippines or Hawaii,  
I'd go up and sit with the pilots and crew chief occasionally.   
Sometimes I'd even end up napping in those great bunks that were right  
behind them in the crew cabin!


We got talking about the HF radios on one flight over our headsets,  
and I explained a bit about ham radio to them.  Intrigued, one of them  
tuned one of the twin comm radios down to the 40 meter band and  
listened for a bit.  I forget what the radios were, but they could do  
AM and SSB on either usb or lsb.


They finally asked if I could talk to someone as well, and I said  
sure, why not?  So that night I had my first and only C-130  
aeronautical mobile pileup on 40 meter ssb while flying in towards  
California.  I spent the better part of two hours working hams that  
were intrigued by the unique circumstances.  I think we were putting  
out about 300 watts (really not sure about this) into the C-130's very  
long wire antenna!  The coverage was excellent, and the aircrew got a  
real kick out of my new use for one of the comm radios in the ship.   
You definitely get better propagation at 35,000 feet!


My first and only experience on the DX end of a pileup.  Lots of fun!

So, do you have any company restrictions against transmitting while  
you're in command?  I promise I won't tell!


73,

Dave K7DAA
http://www.k7daa.com


On Feb 22, 2008, at 2:24 PM, Ed Lambert wrote:

One night, 23 January 2008, during a lull in the action on a flight  
from
Anchorage to Chicago, I tuned the #2 HF radio to 7.012 MHz and heard  
W9KNI
calling cq dx asia. He was rewarded with quite a run. It was  
instructive
simply to listen to him in qso with a number of stations during that  
run. He
was running one KW to a three element yagi. He did not say what was  
driving

the KW. I am thinking it was a K3 but don't know for sure.



I wish I had some way to get the HF radio on to cw (it only supports  
upper
sideband and AM). I could probably get it done with a good audio  
oscillator
and usb but am not sure if that would work properly. I would like to  
have
tried to contact Bob. I wasn't really dx and certainly wasn't asia  
but I

wonder if he's ever worked a B747 on HF cw.



Ed Lambert KD3Y

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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX and K3

2008-02-23 Thread T. David Yarnes

Mark and all,

I've worked them on all modes from 15 through 40 meters 
except RTTY on 17.  Guess I didn't know they were doing RTTY 
on that band.  I'll have to give that more attention as 
their signal of 17 has generally been outstanding.


Unfortunately I've not been able to hear them on 12 meters, 
and only heard them once (but very weak) on 10 meters.  No 
antennas here for 80 or 160 I'm sorry to say.  I don't think 
they will be on much longer, so may try to rig up something 
for 80 meters this weekend at least.  My R8 vertical will 
actually load up on 80 meters, thanks to the apparently wide 
range of the K3's ATU, but obviously the antenna sucks on 
that band nevertheless.  I've manged to work a few friends 
in nearby states doing that, but not much else.  Obviously 
you have a little more mojo in whatever antenna you are 
using!  Hi.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: mark roz [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] VP6DX and K3


With my K3 I have worked VP6DX on all HF bands 160m to
10m SSB and CW. RTTY on 30m and 17m without computer.
Total 20 QSO's. FB expedition and outstanding K3.
I'm sure that there are more operators with K3 that
did the same thing.
Mark WQ7X



 

Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

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[Elecraft] K3 noise B and R

2008-02-23 Thread jacrux
The N0SS demo is very impressive. The noise sounds like what I have here in 
the city suburbs most (all) of the time. But here hitting  NB has no 
tangible effect. I have not found it useful !  (OK;  I probably need to read 
the manual and play with the settings.) 
On the other hand,  NR does work well provided the wanted signal is strong 
enough. (Once again, read the manual, I know ...)

On 80m I have now adopted a different approach to the awful local noise 
levels. I found that hitting ATT was very effective in reducing unwanted 
noise, especially when listening to weaker signals, including VP6DX over 8000 
miles away and nothing like as loud in here as on the N0SS recordings.  
Today I tried listening to VP6DX on 80 with ATT set to OFF and the noise was 
painful. Hitting PRE made it far worse. NR did not really help, but  with ATT 
ON, I worked them on 80m CW with just 10w  
The antenna here is a 20m wire bisquare, bottom corner about 7 feet off the 
ground and firing vertically upwards on 80.
As the VP6 op said when I told him   OUCH   
But the mojo sure works, because I also made it on 80 with 100w of SSB !  
Again this was with ATT  ON. PRE seems best left for the HF bands, 20m and 
up. But  ATT is a powerful option when all else fails.
John G3JAG  K3 #107 K2 # 609
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 noise B and R

2008-02-23 Thread David Cutter

John

I wondered what filter bandwidth settings you had.  A narrow bw of course 
reduces the noise getting to our ears.  How did you handle cw and ssb in 
that respect?


David
G3UNA


The N0SS demo is very impressive. The noise sounds like what I have here 
in

the city suburbs most (all) of the time. But here hitting  NB has no
tangible effect. I have not found it useful !  (OK;  I probably need to 
read

the manual and play with the settings.)
On the other hand,  NR does work well provided the wanted signal is 
strong

enough. (Once again, read the manual, I know ...)

On 80m I have now adopted a different approach to the awful local noise
levels. I found that hitting ATT was very effective in reducing unwanted
noise, especially when listening to weaker signals, including VP6DX over 
8000

miles away and nothing like as loud in here as on the N0SS recordings.
Today I tried listening to VP6DX on 80 with ATT set to OFF and the noise 
was
painful. Hitting PRE made it far worse. NR did not really help, but  with 
ATT

ON, I worked them on 80m CW with just 10w 
The antenna here is a 20m wire bisquare, bottom corner about 7 feet off 
the

ground and firing vertically upwards on 80.
As the VP6 op said when I told him   OUCH
But the mojo sure works, because I also made it on 80 with 100w of SSB !
Again this was with ATT  ON. PRE seems best left for the HF bands, 20m and
up. But  ATT is a powerful option when all else fails.
John G3JAG  K3 #107 K2 # 609


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 noise B and R

2008-02-23 Thread Stewart Baker
My suggestion would be to use a separate RX antenna. Your existing
wire will be very effective at picking up all your local
electrical noise.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:20:34 +, jacrux wrote:
 The N0SS demo is very impressive. The noise sounds like what I
have here in
 the city suburbs most (all) of the time. But here hitting  NB
has no
 tangible effect. I have not found it useful !  (OK;  I probably
need to read
 the manual and play with the settings.)
 On the other hand,  NR does work well provided the wanted
signal is strong
 enough. (Once again, read the manual, I know ...)

 On 80m I have now adopted a different approach to the awful
local noise
 levels. I found that hitting ATT was very effective in
reducing unwanted
 noise, especially when listening to weaker signals, including
VP6DX over 8000
 miles away and nothing like as loud in here as on the N0SS
recordings.
 Today I tried listening to VP6DX on 80 with ATT set to OFF and
the noise was
 painful. Hitting PRE made it far worse. NR did not really help,
but  with ATT
 ON, I worked them on 80m CW with just 10w 
 The antenna here is a 20m wire bisquare, bottom corner about 7
feet off the
 ground and firing vertically upwards on 80.
 As the VP6 op said when I told him   OUCH
 But the mojo sure works, because I also made it on 80 with 100w
of SSB !
 Again this was with ATT  ON. PRE seems best left for the HF
bands, 20m and
 up. But  ATT is a powerful option when all else fails.
 John G3JAG  K3 #107 K2 # 609
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

2008-02-23 Thread Brendan Minish

On Fri, 2008-02-22 at 20:24 -0500, Paul Christensen wrote:
  Is there interest among the group for the necessary parts to input a
  disciplined 10MHz signal to control frequency?  We all know there is a 
  place
  holder on the back panel, but Gary just told me there were no plans.
 
 I'm really hoping for this option.  I use a Hewlett-Packard 58540A GPSDO for 
 use with my IC-7800.  Long-term accuracy when GPS-locked is typically 1E-12. 
 That's essentially the same accuracy as the atomic cesium beam standards 
 used on board the GPS satellites.

The 7800 has some decimation error issues and can be off from the
standard by up to 0.1Hz 
A simple demo of this is to put main and sub RX on the same signal on
the same antenna and listen in stereo for the slow phasing that goes on
between the 2 receivers, it's horrid and makes it a very poor diversity
receiver. It's due to the IF of the sub RX being separated by 100Khz
this leads to a difference in the decimation errors between the main and
Sub RX. Shame on Icom for getting this so wrong.

I Don't know if decimation errors will limit the accuracy of the K3 when
using an external ref but I would not be surprised if this was the case.
Just because you can attach an external ref does not mean that your
RX/TX is now as accurate as the reference, there are other factors that
may limit overall system accuracy  

My Racal 3702 is on the other hand a true diversity receiver, both
receivers are truly phase locked at all stages to any supplied
reference, external or internal. It's a joy to use for diversity
reception and true diversity reception is a fantastic tool for tropical
band BC dxing 

One other issue is that the 7800 simply replaces it's internal
oscillator  with the external source so that external source needs to
have excellent Phase noise performance if you are to avoid degrading the
performance of the radio. This will be an even bigger issue with the K3
at narrow spacings.   

IF Elecraft get to market with the external ref port I'll probably be
adding it.

I have a collection of GPS locked oscillators, 2 of them are rubidium
based 
I also have a home brew IPv6 stratum 1 NTP server at 
balrog.home.minish.org
If you have IPv6 Internet connectivity try it out and let me know how
you get on  


73 Brendan EI6IZ 

-- 
Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try
to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly
untrained, unqualified, expendable professional.

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[Elecraft] Auto CW function

2008-02-23 Thread Alexandr Kobranov

Hello all,
is there some support for request for AUTO CW ON/OFF firmware 
function as some rigs are having (FT-897)?


It means SSB mode choosed, RX in SSB mode normally but when Key  is 
activated (touched for CW sending) there is automatic shift of carrier 
and CW is transmitted (as in standard CW mode, SEMI or FULL-BK etc.) 
then going back to SSB mode for RX. Hope you understand :-)


This is very useful during UHF/SHF contests (with transverters) when 
calling CW CQ but takers are calling in SSB (mostly or very often). No 
need for switching mode (you have SSB all the time) and to touch dial 
knob to reply etc. Very comfortable and (I hope) not so serious for 
firmware.
I know this is very special and on HF bands there is probably no 
reason for such function, my experience is based on serious contesting 
on higher bands (1296 and up).


If this is already somewhere inside and I missed something and my 
sorry for this Q.


73!
Lexa, ok1dst
K3 
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[Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me

2008-02-23 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
I want to hook my K3's up to the latest skimmer software along with
computer control of the rig, etc. and of course via the LP-Pan when it
is available (soon).

My query is about the computer processor and associated elements.

Currently, I am reading that the way to go for skimmer (192kc
bandwidth - not that I need that), is to use a machine with a 3G
processor.

But that seems to only account for one element of the system rating.

My current ham radio computer is a fossil on which I run DOS stuff.
But my home computer (this one) is a Pentium 4, 3.0 Gig.  Sounds
right, but..

When I look at the new machines (which seem relatively cheap for what
you get), I see:

Core 2 Quad Q6600
Core 2 Duo
Pentiuim Dual Core
Celeron
Athlon 64
etc.

Then I see speeds for each of the above, NONE of which goes up to 3.0
gig.  Just because my current processor has the 3.0 gig label, I am
assuming that these newer releases are even faster, despite the lower
clock rate.

For the app's that I'm looking at, DOES CLOCK RATE RULE or does this
other stuff count too?

I also see big variables on the L2 Cache: 2MB, 4MB, 8MB - relatively
speaking, how important are these compared to the other factors?

And then there is the Front Side Bus speed:  800, 1333.  Weird that
the Core 2 Quad (which sounds like the best to me) has a FSB of 1066
(not the fastest).

And finally, there is the clock speed, which for most of the above is
2.2, 2.33, 2.66 gig (again, not reaching 3.0).

How do I put all this together?  Again, for MY apps, which figure of
merit is most important?  Or do I just multiply them all together?
:-)

Reminder:  CPU gurus only need respond.  I prefer direct replies,
but I assume that this topic might be of wide interest to the Elecraft
group...YOUR CHOICE if you respond to the list or just to me.

THANKS A TON!

de Doug KR2Q
Expert on DRGs, not CPUs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagnosis-related_group  this page is
rather outdated
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Re: [Elecraft] Auto CW function

2008-02-23 Thread Björn Mohr
This is something I liked with my FT-897, I think it is a good idea but
probably not the highest prio on my list.

73 de Björn /SM0MDG


On 080223 12:41 , Alexandr Kobranov [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hello all,
 is there some support for request for AUTO CW ON/OFF firmware
 function as some rigs are having (FT-897)?
 
 It means SSB mode choosed, RX in SSB mode normally but when Key  is
 activated (touched for CW sending) there is automatic shift of carrier
 and CW is transmitted (as in standard CW mode, SEMI or FULL-BK etc.)
 then going back to SSB mode for RX. Hope you understand :-)
 
 This is very useful during UHF/SHF contests (with transverters) when
 calling CW CQ but takers are calling in SSB (mostly or very often). No
 need for switching mode (you have SSB all the time) and to touch dial
 knob to reply etc. Very comfortable and (I hope) not so serious for
 firmware.
 I know this is very special and on HF bands there is probably no
 reason for such function, my experience is based on serious contesting
 on higher bands (1296 and up).
 
 If this is already somewhere inside and I missed something and my
 sorry for this Q.
 
 73!
 Lexa, ok1dst
 K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] Auto CW function

2008-02-23 Thread Alexandr Kobranov

Yes, Bjorn,
it is marginal but when you plan to replace all 897 around used as I/F 
for microwaves... :-)
Seriously - I know several other mostly UHF/SHF contesters - this is 
iportant function for them -- and they did not sent order for K3 yet ;-)

73!
L. -dst-


Björn Mohr napsal(a):

This is something I liked with my FT-897, I think it is a good idea but
probably not the highest prio on my list.

73 de Björn /SM0MDG


On 080223 12:41 , Alexandr Kobranov [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hello all,
is there some support for request for AUTO CW ON/OFF firmware
function as some rigs are having (FT-897)?

It means SSB mode choosed, RX in SSB mode normally but when Key  is
activated (touched for CW sending) there is automatic shift of carrier
and CW is transmitted (as in standard CW mode, SEMI or FULL-BK etc.)
then going back to SSB mode for RX. Hope you understand :-)

This is very useful during UHF/SHF contests (with transverters) when
calling CW CQ but takers are calling in SSB (mostly or very often). No
need for switching mode (you have SSB all the time) and to touch dial
knob to reply etc. Very comfortable and (I hope) not so serious for
firmware.
I know this is very special and on HF bands there is probably no
reason for such function, my experience is based on serious contesting
on higher bands (1296 and up).

If this is already somewhere inside and I missed something and my
sorry for this Q.

73!
Lexa, ok1dst
K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 noise B and R

2008-02-23 Thread David Cutter
I don't know what level QRN crashes add to the general noise level:  it 
would be interesting to know what difference the roofing filters add to the 
dsp filter in these condx.


David
G3UNA




The local noise level on 80 shows up as anywhere up to S7or 8.
With ATT ON, it still shows on the meter, but is nothing like as 
aggressive.
On SSB I use the stock filter and leave other things alone most of the 
time.

Two things:
First:   ATT drops the noise and apparently (it must be a bit of an 
illusion)

leaves the signal. It seems that ATT ON limits the peak effect of noise
crashes. Not very scientific, I'm afraid. You just play and see whats best 
at

the time !
Second:  AGC OFF results in a significant drop in strength of everything. 
This
is not what I am used to, so I have AGC ON all the time, usually set to 
FAST,
but there can be a problem with if there is a strong signal on frequency. 
The

transition from TX to RX and vice versa can be marked by loud pops and/or
clicks. I believe this is to do with the way the DSP and AGC systems 
respond
and I understand, very much off record, that a mod for the AGC behaviour 
is

in the works.
In fact I suspect it is already in current production K3s,  like another 
mod
to fix a keying characteristic glitch in an early batch where an 
overly-large

capacitor was installed in error. I did that mod myself.
If I ever get the info (and parts) I will do the AGC mod and see how it 
goes,
but the general advice I got was to leave well alone unless you are sure 
you

need the mod !
Marvellous radio; the best receiver I have had, even better than my
much-modified TenTec Omni-5. But better antennas would help.
and I'm adding a 200Hz roofing filter when I get one.
73 John G3JAG

On Saturday 23 February 2008 11:25:25 you wrote:
What noise levels were you receiving? It would be interesting to know 
what

they were before and after you selected filters, but you were probably so
amazed with your contacts withVP6DX that sort of stuff went out of the
window : o )
Do you operate with or without AGC, full rf gain?  Sorry for the 3rd
degree, just getting a handle on real band condx with weak signal 
reception

 : o / I will be severely limited on antennas as well.

David
G3UNA 


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[Elecraft] auto CW function

2008-02-23 Thread Dick Hanson
I'd like to join Alexandr and Bjorn in support of this feature.
This is one of the most useful features on the 897 and has proved to be
invaluable when on dxpeditions.

Invariably, you'll be on SSB running a pileup and someone will be calling
you on CW; it is SO handy to just hit the key and make a reply.

Anyhow, it would be a great future addition, IMO.

73
Dick, K5AND 00050 (and six meter nut)

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[Elecraft] KPA100 going into oscillation...help!

2008-02-23 Thread Douglas Maxwell
Hi All,
My K2 is serial no. 4688. I have just purchased and built the latest spec 
KPA100 unit for it. The manual for the KPA100 suggests modifications are 
required for K2's with serial nos 4059 or lower. As my serial number is higher, 
I assumed all would be well. Firstly the KPA100 performs well on all bands 
using CW mode. Recently I tried SSB and found that the PA is going into 
oscillation when on 40m.

Setting the power out to 20W and speaking into the microphone produces 100W 
output peaks accompanied with a low buzzing sound in the speaker on audio 
peaks. Varying the power control brings it back into line only to start 
misbehaving again after a few more words are spoken or if the mode is cycled 
back round to LSB or you switch off then on again. This happens when connected 
to a dummy load with no other connections other than the mike and power supply. 
I changed out the power supply, but the same problem exists.

I have done an extensive search of the internet to try and find solutions:
1) I have ensured gnd continuity from the KPA100 to every part of the K2 
chassis.
2) I covered the hole in the shield near the pl259 with copper tape and ensured 
gnd continuity.
3) I saw the article about installing the 270 ohm metal film resistor to 
increase Zin, but my K2 circuit is newer than the authors and I haven't seen an 
updated version.
4) I have ensured the 2 lugs from the antenna socket to the shield are good.
5) I have removed the KPA100 from the K2 entirely and the same problem exists.

Does anyone know the solution or recognise these symptoms?

Douglas Maxwell
GM0ELP





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[Elecraft] K2-Rework Elimination?

2008-02-23 Thread Curt
I've ordered a K-2 and contemplate adding the KSB2 and the KAT2 someday. 
Most likely will not implement any other options, mostly operate QRP CW. 
I'd appreciate comments about whether the re-work eliminator kits would be 
appropriate, or just an unnecessary expense.


72, Curt KB5JO



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 going into oscillation...help!

2008-02-23 Thread Robie Elms
Douglas,

Perhaps the issue described in this elecraft thread describes your
issue and provides an answer:

http://www.nabble.com/K2-100-kaputt-to14081805.html#a14081805

Good Luck,

Robie - AJ4F


On Sat, Feb 23, 2008 at 7:01 AM, Douglas Maxwell
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi All,
My K2 is serial no. 4688. I have just purchased and built the latest spec 
 KPA100 unit for it. The manual for the KPA100 suggests modifications are 
 required for K2's with serial nos 4059 or lower. As my serial number is 
 higher, I assumed all would be well. Firstly the KPA100 performs well on all 
 bands using CW mode. Recently I tried SSB and found that the PA is going into 
 oscillation when on 40m.

 Setting the power out to 20W and speaking into the microphone produces 100W 
 output peaks accompanied with a low buzzing sound in the speaker on audio 
 peaks. Varying the power control brings it back into line only to start 
 misbehaving again after a few more words are spoken or if the mode is cycled 
 back round to LSB or you switch off then on again. This happens when 
 connected to a dummy load with no other connections other than the mike and 
 power supply. I changed out the power supply, but the same problem exists.

 I have done an extensive search of the internet to try and find solutions:
 1) I have ensured gnd continuity from the KPA100 to every part of the K2 
 chassis.
 2) I covered the hole in the shield near the pl259 with copper tape and 
 ensured gnd continuity.
 3) I saw the article about installing the 270 ohm metal film resistor to 
 increase Zin, but my K2 circuit is newer than the authors and I haven't seen 
 an updated version.
 4) I have ensured the 2 lugs from the antenna socket to the shield are good.
 5) I have removed the KPA100 from the K2 entirely and the same problem exists.

 Does anyone know the solution or recognise these symptoms?

 Douglas Maxwell
 GM0ELP





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[Elecraft] K3: small improvement in my life

2008-02-23 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Lots to get familiar with in the K3 and if you're like me, not a lot of time.

The other day I found the bit about the Iambic A vs B in the manual
and switched it to B since I had a hard sending some letters for RTTY
with A.  Today, I actually tried it out (on cw, not RTTY).  Oh
my...now THAT'S what I'm talking about!  Just beautiful!!

So, my trusty old KC Keyer (gee. how old is THAT?) is now being
retired.  One less thing to clutter the desk and one less thing to
plug into the wall.

VERY NICE!

de Doug KR2Q
It's often the little that count the most...especially when you start
adding them up.
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

2008-02-23 Thread Jerry T. Dowell

You bet! That is one of the reasons I bought a K3.

Jerry   AI6L

-Original Message-
From: Philip Theis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 4:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

Is there interest among the group for the necessary parts to input a
disciplined 10MHz signal to control frequency?  We all know there is a place
holder on the back panel, but Gary just told me there were no plans.
In April Wayne said it was coming but the price hadn't been set.
Just wondering if anyone else out there has an interest like I do.
73,
Phil K3(352)TUF




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 going into oscillation...help!

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Douglas,

If your 'latest spec' KPA100 was shipped from Aptos after January 2007, 
then indeed you do have the latest - check all your construction work.


If it was shipped before January 2007, check the value of C31.  The new 
design requires a 0.22 uF capacitor.


Are you certain it is an oscillation?  If so, can you determine the 
frequency?  There is a difference between an oscillation and simply 
going to the maximum power output, and the direction for attacking your 
problem depends on the correct answer to that question.
Do you have any mods to the KSB2 board - in particular the KI6WX 
increased RF gain mod.  If that is present with the KPA100, the SSB ALC 
can be overdriven (but there is an easy fix to the SSB ALC circuit).


73,
Don W3FPR

Douglas Maxwell wrote:

Hi All,
My K2 is serial no. 4688. I have just purchased and built the latest spec 
KPA100 unit for it. The manual for the KPA100 suggests modifications are 
required for K2's with serial nos 4059 or lower. As my serial number is higher, 
I assumed all would be well. Firstly the KPA100 performs well on all bands 
using CW mode. Recently I tried SSB and found that the PA is going into 
oscillation when on 40m.

Setting the power out to 20W and speaking into the microphone produces 100W 
output peaks accompanied with a low buzzing sound in the speaker on audio 
peaks. Varying the power control brings it back into line only to start 
misbehaving again after a few more words are spoken or if the mode is cycled 
back round to LSB or you switch off then on again. This happens when connected 
to a dummy load with no other connections other than the mike and power supply. 
I changed out the power supply, but the same problem exists.

I have done an extensive search of the internet to try and find solutions:
1) I have ensured gnd continuity from the KPA100 to every part of the K2 
chassis.
2) I covered the hole in the shield near the pl259 with copper tape and ensured 
gnd continuity.
3) I saw the article about installing the 270 ohm metal film resistor to 
increase Zin, but my K2 circuit is newer than the authors and I haven't seen an 
updated version.
4) I have ensured the 2 lugs from the antenna socket to the shield are good.
5) I have removed the KPA100 from the K2 entirely and the same problem exists.

Does anyone know the solution or recognise these symptoms?

Douglas Maxwell
GM0ELP

  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

2008-02-23 Thread Jim Miller
I wonder how Elecraft planned to implement the External Synch Module.

Especially in light of the non-harmonic relationship of 10Mhz and 49.38Mhz. 
Would some recalibration and firmware changes be required?

73

jim ab3cv


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RE: [Elecraft] ESD Mat - Helpful Hint

2008-02-23 Thread WA6OCP

I am sure others may have discovered this, but I will mention it anyway.

It takes about one second to find out that a wrist strap, and its lead, are
frequently in the way.  I solved that problem by sliding the wrist band
halfway up my forearm.

Unfortunately, it doesn't remond you to take it off when you get up from the
table or put it back on when you sit down.  ;-)

72, Neal WA6OCP
K3/10/305



Dave Agsten wrote:
 
 Paul,
 
 I picked up an ESD mat at Radio Shack. I was a nice
 size, had pockets for tools to stay in, the wrist
 strap on a coiled cable and a 6 foot or so connection
 to ground either via and alligator clip or banana
 plug. The biggest problem was remembering to
 disconnect the wrist strap ( via a banana plug ) when
 I got up from the table. :-)
 
 
 It was $24.95. The first employee in the store didn't
 have a clue as to what I was asking for.no
 surprise there.
 
 73,
 Dave
 N8AG
 k3/100 #414
 
 
  
 
 Be a better friend, newshound, and 
 know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
 http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

2008-02-23 Thread Paul Christensen

The 7800 has some decimation error issues and can be off from the
standard by up to 0.1Hz  A simple demo of this is to put main and sub RX 
on the same signal on

the same antenna and listen in stereo for the slow phasing that goes on
between the 2 receivers, it's horrid and makes it a very poor diversity
receiver.


That's likely why Icom has yet refused to add auto Main/Sub tracking.  OTOH, 
one of the first tests I conducted was to sync the 7800's Main and Sub 
receivers and sample the audio into an oscilloscope in X-Y mode to establish 
a Lissajous pattern.  Any phase shift is represented by a change in the 
pattern from a straight line to a fuzzy line, then to what appears as a 
fuzzy ball.   I could leave the 7800 running for days and not notice any 
phase shift unless I induced the phase shift (e.g., moving the sub Rx by 1 
Hz, for example).


Paul, W9AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] MP3 Demo of the K3's Noise Blanker under some rather severe conditions

2008-02-23 Thread Stephen Prior
As someone who frequently has to live with high line noise levels up to S8/9
at times, that's particularly good news!  Thanks for posting it, a very
impressive demonstration.  My K3 hopefully won't be too many weeks now!

73 Stephen G4SJP


On 23/2/08 01:59, Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Folks:
 
 This afternoon my line noise was particularly bad, even giving VP6DX a run
 for its money on some bands.
 
 Just for the heck of it, I punched [NB] on the K3 and... there was VP6DX,
 and... the noise was GONE!!!
 
 This was some of stronger line noise I've had out here (in the sticks) for
 quite a while.
 
 I was so impressed that I mad an MP3 of the differences without and with
 the NB enabled.  The MP3 file can be found at:
 
 http://www.n0ss.net/k3_nb_demo_22feb2008.mp3
 
 NOTE: If you choose to manually type this URL into your browser, be
   aware that the blank spaces are filled with UNDERSCORE  _ 
   characters and NOT blank spaces as might appear above.
 
 If you can't access the file from this link, go to www.n0ss.net, select
 the K3-Specific web page (just being built, so there's virtually NOTHING
 on it other than this file) and click on the file.
 
 The source bands for the recording were 15m and 17m, and among others,
 VP6DX was one of the 'sample' stations.
 
 I used a fairly wide bandwidth in order to give a worst-case scenario for
 the KNB3. Most of the blanking was due to the IF blanker, with just a little
 DSP NB thrown in for good measure.
 
 Nice work Wayne  Lyle!
 
 73,
 
 Tom Hammond   N0SS
 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Kit vs Ready Built

2008-02-23 Thread Mike Christiansen
Paul,

I am waiting for my K3 to arrive.  I ordered my ESF mat and wrist strap form
Compusa online.  They seemed reasonably priced

Mike, N4GW

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 8:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit vs Ready Built

 Check out this site.  A lot of experienced builders put their comments 
 here

And from the appearance of the user build experiences, many folks are using 
ESD mats for K3 assembly - and to minimize shop rash.

Any recommendations for purchase?

Paul, W9AC 

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[Elecraft] re: Your Elecraft K3 slide show

2008-02-23 Thread Robert C.Abell
Hi Lee,

I am the owner of K3 S/N 00409. I very much enjoyed your slide show of your 
assembly, best I've seen so far, excellent. Who took the photos of you at work?
Mine went together without a hitch, very well thought out assembly. I really 
enjoy using it now that I'm
getting used to the controls. I have worked quite a bit of DX including VP6DX 
on 20 meter SSB.
Even worked quite a few on the 160 meter band last night using my 135 ft. open 
wire fed inverted V.
I have never tried 160 meters before with other rigs I have here.
Have fun!

73, Bob  VE3XM
Wellesley, ON

K2 S/N 04575
K2/100 S/N 04031
K3/100 S/N 00409
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[Elecraft] that mojo thing

2008-02-23 Thread Chris Gibson
I've been a bit suspicious about that mojo thing, but working Ducie Island
first call with K3 #328 to indoor dipoles does make me wonder .

73 Chris, MØPSK
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[Elecraft] What's your K3?

2008-02-23 Thread Don Rasmussen
If you have a K3 and are not on this list:

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Serial_Numbers

Would you drop me an email? Include your serial
number, order date, arrival date, name and qth if
possible. I'll add you to the list. 

t u !
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3 Why Buy a Kit?

2008-02-23 Thread Robert C.Abell
Dave,

Why not buy a kit, lots of fun assembling a K3 plus one saves money. I'm 
retired every penny counts.

73, Bob  VE3XM

K2 S/N 04575
K2/100 S/N 04031
K3/100 S/N 00409
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me

2008-02-23 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Doug
You've got some real legitimate questions that a
lot of us non-gurus would like to hear the answers
to.  If you get a lot of your replies direct, could you
summarize them in a post to us masses?
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:49 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me


 I want to hook my K3's up to the latest skimmer software along with
 computer control of the rig, etc. and of course via the LP-Pan when
it
 is available (soon).

 My query is about the computer processor and associated elements.

 Currently, I am reading that the way to go for skimmer (192kc
 bandwidth - not that I need that), is to use a machine with a 3G
 processor.

 But that seems to only account for one element of the system
rating.

 My current ham radio computer is a fossil on which I run DOS stuff.
 But my home computer (this one) is a Pentium 4, 3.0 Gig.  Sounds
 right, but..

 When I look at the new machines (which seem relatively cheap for
what
 you get), I see:

 Core 2 Quad Q6600
 Core 2 Duo
 Pentiuim Dual Core
 Celeron
 Athlon 64
 etc.

 Then I see speeds for each of the above, NONE of which goes up to
3.0
 gig.  Just because my current processor has the 3.0 gig label, I
am
 assuming that these newer releases are even faster, despite the
lower
 clock rate.

 For the app's that I'm looking at, DOES CLOCK RATE RULE or does this
 other stuff count too?

 I also see big variables on the L2 Cache: 2MB, 4MB, 8MB - relatively
 speaking, how important are these compared to the other factors?

 And then there is the Front Side Bus speed:  800, 1333.  Weird that
 the Core 2 Quad (which sounds like the best to me) has a FSB of
1066
 (not the fastest).

 And finally, there is the clock speed, which for most of the above
is
 2.2, 2.33, 2.66 gig (again, not reaching 3.0).

 How do I put all this together?  Again, for MY apps, which figure of
 merit is most important?  Or do I just multiply them all together?
 :-)

 Reminder:  CPU gurus only need respond.  I prefer direct replies,
 but I assume that this topic might be of wide interest to the
Elecraft
 group...YOUR CHOICE if you respond to the list or just to me.

 THANKS A TON!

 de Doug KR2Q
 Expert on DRGs, not CPUs

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagnosis-related_group  this page is
 rather outdated
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit vs Ready Built

2008-02-23 Thread n1al
I went down to my local Shadio Rack and bought one of those ESD mats.  But
I can't convince myself that it works.  If I touch my meter probes to the
mat I measure infinity ohms, no matter how close together the two probes
are.  I know the meter works - If I hold one probe tip in each hand the
meter measures a few 10's of megohms.

Al N1AL


 There have been quite a few products mentioned in previous threads, and
 are in the archives.  Examples include Radio Shack and TigerDirect.com.


  -- Original message --
 From: Paul Christensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 And from the appearance of the user build experiences, many folks are
 using
 ESD mats for K3 assembly - and to minimize shop rash.

 Any recommendations for purchase?

 73,

 Mike
 KW1ND


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[Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Joe N9VX

How to I replace the 12 volt incandescent bulb in my Yaesu G-800DXA rotor 
control unit with an LED bulb? The incandescent bulb is a fuse looking bulb 
with wires out each end. I tried putting an LED in, it worked for a while then 
went out. Do I need a resistor in the circuit?
.
Thanks and 73,
.
Joe  N9VX

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RE: [Elecraft] Back ordered filters

2008-02-23 Thread G4ILO


Carl Clawson wrote:
 
 I just got my Lisagram yesterday (ordered June 28) including a 500 Hz
 filter
 on the invoice. It is not shown as back-ordered. You might give Lisa an
 email and see what's up. She's busy enough that a mistake or two are bound
 to happen.
 
Are the FM filters shipping? The shipping status page doesn't seem to have
been updated, and still says 20 February. I don't mind waiting a few more
days to save Elecraft some shipping costs by sending both filters together.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Back-ordered-filters-tp15607212p15654261.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread David Cutter
Most 'ordinary' leds need about 20mA.  Calculate a series resistor assuming 
the led will have around 1.5 to 2V or so across it (it depends on colour). 
You can find out what the actual voltage drop is after you've fitted the 
resistor by putting your voltmeter across it.


If the supply to the lamp was ac, then you will need a diode (any small 
type) across the led in the opposite direction to prevent it blowing with 
too much voltage: most are rated around 5V


Let's say you have a 24V ac supply, the led will conduct in one direction 
and the protection diode in the other, so, it doesn't matter which is which. 
Start with a resistor of 1k, power rating at least 1W, it will get fairly 
hot.  The led will run cool.  If you have a high intensity led, it will be 
bright with perhaps 2mA, so do the sums  :o)


David
G3UNA



How to I replace the 12 volt incandescent bulb in my Yaesu G-800DXA rotor 
control unit with an LED bulb? The incandescent bulb is a fuse looking 
bulb with wires out each end. I tried putting an LED in, it worked for a 
while then went out. Do I need a resistor in the circuit?

.
Thanks and 73,
.
Joe  N9VX


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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Rework Elimination?

2008-02-23 Thread Tony Morgan

Hi Curt,
This topic has been discussed quite extensively on the reflector.
Try a search here and I'm sure you'll find some answers.


http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/maillist.html

73,
Tony W7GO





Curt wrote:
I've ordered a K-2 and contemplate adding the KSB2 and the KAT2 
someday. Most likely will not implement any other options, mostly 
operate QRP CW. I'd appreciate comments about whether the re-work 
eliminator kits would be appropriate, or just an unnecessary expense.


72, Curt KB5JO



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3

2008-02-23 Thread Robert C.Abell
Hi Barry,

Buy the kit, very easy to assemble, be sure to read every instruction two or 
three times and you won't go wrong. 
You will also save money, not only the extra price charged for the assembled K3 
but your VAT and other import fees. I had to pay $297.00 to the Government in 
Goods and Services Tax and Provincial Sales Tax.
IMHO anyway.

73, Bob  VE3XM

K2, K2/100, K3 #409
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Hammond

Joe:

How to I replace the 12 volt incandescent bulb in my Yaesu G-800DXA 
rotor control unit with an LED bulb? The incandescent bulb is a fuse 
looking bulb with wires out each end. I tried putting an LED in, it 
worked for a while then went out. Do I need a resistor in the circuit?


I replaced the single incandescents in my G-1000DSX with (2) blue 
LEDs... one on

each side of the top corners.

I used a bit of silicone glue to hold them in place.

I really need to replace them with something BRIGHTER though... the 
blue is neat

looking, but it's a bit too dim sometimes... maybe some high-output blues might
work better.

Were I to do it again, I'd probably put LEDs in all three corners, OR 
work to find
some LEDs which have a VERY WIDE viewing angle (unlike those I'm 
currently using).

I've tried filing flat the front lens in order to 'spread' out the light and to
help keep it from being quite so much of a 'spot'... this has helped, but I'm
sure there are better lenses available (probably higher cost, but 
better nonethe-

less.

The OEM incandescent in my rotor box had become hot enough that it slightly
melted and deformed the (originally clear) plastic faceplate... I had 
to do some
'cosmetic' work with a DremelTool before I got it back in good 
working shape. In

fact, I had to 'smooth' out the damaged (and later ground-flat) edge where the
bulb was by literally applying a flame from a small butane torch, to melt the
plastic on the edge and then allow it to cool, leaving a nice smooth edge to
act as a light pipe for the rest of the dial.

73,

Tom Hammond  N0SS

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[Elecraft] Sidetone in line out connector?

2008-02-23 Thread Björn Mohr
Has anyone figured out if it is possible to get sidetone routed to the line
out connector when keying the radio? It would be handy to hear keying this
way too.


73 de Björn /SM0MDG



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Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone in line out connector?

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Hammond

Björn:


Has anyone figured out if it is possible to get sidetone routed to the line
out connector when keying the radio? It would be handy to hear keying this
way too.


I am pretty certain that this IS on the list of things to do.

I think it is (or must be) a DSP function.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

2008-02-23 Thread Larry Putman
Me too! 

The external Ref is very important to my QRSS QRPp very weak signal work to 
maintain my frequency tolerance to less then .1 hz.
I  am currently using an HP 3325A Synthesizer and HP Z3801A GPS Ref to put a 
stable and accurate signal on the air! Also have my RX340 referenced to the 
Z3801A Not having the external reference opt is a big setback!
I hope the ability to reduce the output power down to -15 dBm using the KXV3 is 
still  possible?

Larry Putman WB3ANQ

Pasadena, 
Maryland FM19rc
www.wb3anq.com

- Original Message 
From: Jerry T. Dowell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Philip Theis [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 9:17:39 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input


You bet! That is one of the reasons I bought a K3.

Jerry   AI6L

-Original Message-
From: Philip Theis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 4:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 External Reference input

Is there interest among the group for the necessary parts to input a
disciplined 10MHz signal to control frequency?  We all know there is a place
holder on the back panel, but Gary just told me there were no plans.
In April Wayne said it was coming but the price hadn't been set.
Just wondering if anyone else out there has an interest like I do.
73,
Phil K3(352)TUF




  

Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

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[Elecraft] K3 filter trade?

2008-02-23 Thread Barry N1EU
This is perhaps a long shot, but anybody out there want to trade their
narrow 1.8Khz K3 filter for a 2.8Khz filter?

Please reply off list.

73,
Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Paul Christensen
How to I replace the 12 volt incandescent bulb in my Yaesu G-800DXA rotor 
control unit with an LED bulb? The incandescent bulb is a fuse looking 
bulb with wires out each end. I tried putting an LED in, it worked for a 
while then went out. Do I need a resistor in the circuit?


Joe,

Yes, the value of series limiting resistor is actually highly depended on 
the color of the LED.  A typical red LED requires between 15-20 mA to 
achieve full brightness and a corresponding forward voltage drop of about 
1.7 VDC.   On the other hand, some super white and blue LEDs have forward 
voltage (Vf) drops near 4.0 VDC.   I would first measure your 12VDC supply 
and ensure it is really 12 VDC and not some other value.  Once this value is 
known, you are ready to proceed with your computations:


To compute the value needed, subtract the Vf (forward voltage) from the 
measured supply voltage.  For a red LED, this value would be close to:


12.0V-1.7V = 10.3 VDC (This represents the voltage drop across the resistor 
you are solving for)


Next, using Ohm's law, divide the resulting resistive voltage drop by the 
current required to achieve full red illumination:


10.3V/20 mA = 10.3V/0.02 A = 515 ohms.  Since 515 ohms is not a standard 
value for 5% tolerance resistors, pick one close -- like 560 ohms.  You now 
have a properly operating LED that will last nearly forever, provided the 
supply voltage remains reasonably constant.


But what if you want a super bright white or blue LED?  Typically, the Vf 
value will be close to 4.0 VDC.  So, let's solve for the correct resistor 
value needed for use with a super-bright LED:


12.0V - 4.0V = 8VDC.

Next, using Ohm's law, divide the resistive voltage drop by the current 
required to achieve full white illumination:


8.0V/20mA = 8.0/0.02 A = 400 Ohms.  Again, find a 5% resistor close to 400 
Ohms -- like 390 Ohms.


But you may ask, how do I know the real Vf value for the LED?  Well, you can 
experiment and find it or more easily...when you purchase an LED from Radio 
Shack, Mouser, Allied, Newark, Digi-Key, etc., the Vf value will always be 
stated on the blister pack or the manufacturer's data sheet.   Use that Vf 
value.


Now, you may also be asking about the resistor wattage size.  Let's use 
Watt's law to calculate the power dissipation of the red LED's 
current-limiting resistor...


If we choose a 560 Ohm resistor, we can closely compute the dissipation by 
squaring the current (20 mA), and multiplying it by the resistor value 
(recall the target value was 515 Ohms, but we substituted 560 and that's 
close enough).  Here goes:


20 mA = 0.02A.  Then,  0.02^2 x 560 = 0.22 watts.  At a minimum, a 1/4 watt 
resistor should be used, or even a 1/2 watt resistor since were getting to a 
marginal break point for the 1/4 watt resistor.


If your plan is to use more than one LED to illuminate the meter face, then 
you can use these examples above for each LED.  On the other hand, it is 
possible to stack LEDs in series and use one current limiting resistor but 
you will need to re-work all the calculations.  It should actually be an 
interesting exercise to go through the computations and compare and contrast 
both ways.


That's it.  To summarize:

1) Measure the true supply voltage;
2) Acquire the proper Vf voltage from the LED's data sheet;
3) Always observe correct LED polarity;
4) Choose a resistor close in value;
5) Choose a wattage of resistor that is at least equal to the amount being 
dissipated by the resistor.  Going up in wattage value in marginal cases is 
good engineering practice.


Paul, W9AC

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[Elecraft] software to load K3 memories,

2008-02-23 Thread Bill NY9H
did I miss something ... is there a 3rd party software to load the 
memories of the k3


I looked at HRD but didn't find that facility.

bill

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[Elecraft] software to load K3 memories, clarified question

2008-02-23 Thread Bill NY9H



did I miss something ... is there a 3rd party software to load the 
memories of the k3


Not just the keyer memories  but the frequencies  with all the parameters.




bill

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[Elecraft] K3 Output levels

2008-02-23 Thread Harry Price
Hi,

I asked this question here before but no one anawered it. Maybe it was 
considered a dumb question. 

Can the power output level of the K3/100 be individually programmed for 
different bands? For example to accomodate a low drive level 6M amplifier. I 
doubt it but thought I would ask as I cannot find anything in the literature on 
this. 

It would be nice so that when you QSY'ed for a 6M band opening you would not 
over drive your 6M amp in the excitement.
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[Elecraft] Reverse ALC

2008-02-23 Thread Björn Mohr
I am looking for a simple solution to reverse the K3 ALC input to a negative
going ALC circuit. If you have interfaced your K3 with any amp using
negative ALC, please let me know your solution.


73 de Björn /SM0MDG


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Output levels

2008-02-23 Thread Matt Zilmer
Harry,

You could develop a macro for this and use it in Command Mode with the
K3 Utility.  Command Mode is a very useful facility for this sort of
thing. 

Currently, power level sticks across bands and you'd have to reset it
by hand for 6m, or develop a standard set of macros to preset power
level, mode, Lo/Hi, etc. for given bands of interest.

matt, W6NIA
k3 # 24



On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 13:22:05 -0500, you wrote:

Hi,

I asked this question here before but no one anawered it. Maybe it was 
considered a dumb question. 

Can the power output level of the K3/100 be individually programmed for 
different bands? For example to accomodate a low drive level 6M amplifier. I 
doubt it but thought I would ask as I cannot find anything in the literature 
on this. 

It would be nice so that when you QSY'ed for a 6M band opening you would not 
over drive your 6M amp in the excitement.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 going into oscillation...help!

2008-02-23 Thread Douglas Maxwell
Hi Don,
My KPA100 was shipped in October 07 and the value of C31 is .22uF(u22J63)
63v, Part no . E530295. I'm not sure about the oscillation, but my symtoms
sound very similar to the old oscillation problems documented on the web
i.e. 40m/SSB/KPA100 combination for the problem to manifest.

The KPA100 works 100% in CW on all bands. I can vary the power up and down
and it behaves accordingly. This leads me to believe the KPA100 is
constructed correctly. When the KPA100 is bypassed at =10w there are no
problems. When the KPA100 is in line i.e. 11w on 80,20,15  10m all is well
and I can play quite happily. When I switch bands to 40m SSB @11w and speak
into microphone I get 100w out on voice peaks together with my voice audible
through the speaker. It will stay in this conditon until I turn the power
control all the way up and then back down to 11w whilst talking into the
microphone. It then works 100% until I either touch the mode button (by
cycling back round to L) or power the radio off then on, whereupon in both
cases it reverts to the 100w voice peak condition.

My KSB2 board  was bought together with my K2 in June 05 and no
modifications have been carried out on it since then. I didn't think it had
anything to do with the ALC circuit as the radio performs 100% on all other
bands and when the KPA100 is bypassed on 40m.

Thanks for the help. Hope this info helps a bit.

Doug GM0ELP



- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Douglas Maxwell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 going into oscillation...help!


 Douglas,

 If your 'latest spec' KPA100 was shipped from Aptos after January 2007,
 then indeed you do have the latest - check all your construction work.

 If it was shipped before January 2007, check the value of C31.  The new
 design requires a 0.22 uF capacitor.

 Are you certain it is an oscillation?  If so, can you determine the
 frequency?  There is a difference between an oscillation and simply
 going to the maximum power output, and the direction for attacking your
 problem depends on the correct answer to that question.
 Do you have any mods to the KSB2 board - in particular the KI6WX
 increased RF gain mod.  If that is present with the KPA100, the SSB ALC
 can be overdriven (but there is an easy fix to the SSB ALC circuit).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Douglas Maxwell wrote:
  Hi All,
  My K2 is serial no. 4688. I have just purchased and built the latest
spec KPA100 unit for it. The manual for the KPA100 suggests modifications
are required for K2's with serial nos 4059 or lower. As my serial number is
higher, I assumed all would be well. Firstly the KPA100 performs well on all
bands using CW mode. Recently I tried SSB and found that the PA is going
into oscillation when on 40m.
 
  Setting the power out to 20W and speaking into the microphone produces
100W output peaks accompanied with a low buzzing sound in the speaker on
audio peaks. Varying the power control brings it back into line only to
start misbehaving again after a few more words are spoken or if the mode is
cycled back round to LSB or you switch off then on again. This happens when
connected to a dummy load with no other connections other than the mike and
power supply. I changed out the power supply, but the same problem exists.
 
  I have done an extensive search of the internet to try and find
solutions:
  1) I have ensured gnd continuity from the KPA100 to every part of the K2
chassis.
  2) I covered the hole in the shield near the pl259 with copper tape and
ensured gnd continuity.
  3) I saw the article about installing the 270 ohm metal film resistor to
increase Zin, but my K2 circuit is newer than the authors and I haven't seen
an updated version.
  4) I have ensured the 2 lugs from the antenna socket to the shield are
good.
  5) I have removed the KPA100 from the K2 entirely and the same problem
exists.
 
  Does anyone know the solution or recognise these symptoms?
 
  Douglas Maxwell
  GM0ELP
 
 


 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1294 - Release Date: 2/22/2008
18:39



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[Elecraft] Re: Auto CW function

2008-02-23 Thread G3XDY

I think this was covered in the FAQ on 6m topics:

Is it possible to have automatic VFO offset when switching from SSB to CW 
to SSB?  The VFO offset should be the same as the selected transmit/spotting 
sidetone frequency. For example, if you are on 50125.00 kHz USB and you 
switch to CW mode, the VFO automatically switches to 50125.70 kHz (if the 
specified sidetone frequency is 700 Hz). This puts the audible CW signal in 
the USB passband.


AND

Can the K3 be configured to automatically change to CW mode when the key is 
activated and to SSB when a PTT line is keyed?


These features will not be in the initial firmware release, but should be 
available in the second release.  Exact functionality TBD. 


That was one reason I decided to order a K3 late last year, primarily for 
UHF and above contesting.


I'm not very clear what the second release might mean, but I guess we are 
talking about V 2.xx  rather than an evolution of the current V1.69 code?


73

John G3XDY
K2 #4713, K3 ???

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 46, Issue 43



Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:41:47 +0100
From: Alexandr Kobranov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] Auto CW function
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hello all,
is there some support for request for AUTO CW ON/OFF firmware
function as some rigs are having (FT-897)?

It means SSB mode choosed, RX in SSB mode normally but when Key  is
activated (touched for CW sending) there is automatic shift of carrier
and CW is transmitted (as in standard CW mode, SEMI or FULL-BK etc.)
then going back to SSB mode for RX. Hope you understand :-)

This is very useful during UHF/SHF contests (with transverters) when
calling CW CQ but takers are calling in SSB (mostly or very often). No
need for switching mode (you have SSB all the time) and to touch dial
knob to reply etc. Very comfortable and (I hope) not so serious for
firmware.
I know this is very special and on HF bands there is probably no
reason for such function, my experience is based on serious contesting
on higher bands (1296 and up).

If this is already somewhere inside and I missed something and my
sorry for this Q.

73!
Lexa, ok1dst
K3 


*** 


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[Elecraft] Re: Your Elecraft K3 slide show

2008-02-23 Thread Lee (WW2DX)

Thanks Bob appreciate the comments.

Thanks goes to Scott WU2X for taking the the cool shots of me building.

Finished the build about 11:30pm and we played till about 2 AM :)

Enjoy!

Lee
WW2DX

On Feb 23, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Robert C.Abell wrote:


Hi Lee,

I am the owner of K3 S/N 00409. I very much enjoyed your slide show  
of your assembly, best I've seen so far, excellent. Who took the  
photos of you at work?
Mine went together without a hitch, very well thought out assembly.  
I really enjoy using it now that I'm
getting used to the controls. I have worked quite a bit of DX  
including VP6DX on 20 meter SSB.
Even worked quite a few on the 160 meter band last night using my  
135 ft. open wire fed inverted V.

I have never tried 160 meters before with other rigs I have here.
Have fun!

73, Bob  VE3XM
Wellesley, ON

K2 S/N 04575
K2/100 S/N 04031
K3/100 S/N 00409


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[Elecraft] K3 Portable Operation

2008-02-23 Thread Ken Kirkley

I am very interested in the K3 for use as a portable rig while camping. Have
any of you new owners taken the K3 outside and operated portable on battery
power? If so, what were you impressions?

Additionally, if I build the 100W model, I can operate at QRP levels on
battery with no issues?

Thanks!
Ken/NO4D
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3---Portable-Operation-tp15656862p15656862.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Your Elecraft K3 slide show

2008-02-23 Thread Ken Kirkley

Hey Lee:
Is this slide show available on the net for download/view?

Thanks!
Ken/NO4D


Lee (WW2DX) wrote:
 
 Thanks Bob appreciate the comments.
 
 Thanks goes to Scott WU2X for taking the the cool shots of me building.
 
 Finished the build about 11:30pm and we played till about 2 AM :)
 
 Enjoy!
 
 Lee
 WW2DX
 
 On Feb 23, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Robert C.Abell wrote:
 
 Hi Lee,

 I am the owner of K3 S/N 00409. I very much enjoyed your slide show  
 of your assembly, best I've seen so far, excellent. Who took the  
 photos of you at work?
 Mine went together without a hitch, very well thought out assembly.  
 I really enjoy using it now that I'm
 getting used to the controls. I have worked quite a bit of DX  
 including VP6DX on 20 meter SSB.
 Even worked quite a few on the 160 meter band last night using my  
 135 ft. open wire fed inverted V.
 I have never tried 160 meters before with other rigs I have here.
 Have fun!

 73, Bob  VE3XM
 Wellesley, ON

 K2 S/N 04575
 K2/100 S/N 04031
 K3/100 S/N 00409
 
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[Elecraft] that mojo thing

2008-02-23 Thread Randy Downs
Chris;
An Elecraft to Elecraft contact, would that be double Mojo or Mojo squared?
Randy
K8RDD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Portable Operation

2008-02-23 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello Ken
The K3 is designed to be a shack radio with access to ac power.
It draws quite a bit more current than the K2, which was designed
for the type of use you describe.

From measurements others have made, it appears the K3 has a resting
receive current right around 1 amp, +/- a little bit.  Transmit
current
at 5w is also higher than for the same output with a K2.

Yes, the K3 will operate in the field, but the battery consumption
will
be quite a bit higher than with a comparable K2 at the same power
levels.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Ken Kirkley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 12:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Portable Operation



 I am very interested in the K3 for use as a portable rig while
camping. Have
 any of you new owners taken the K3 outside and operated portable on
battery
 power? If so, what were you impressions?

 Additionally, if I build the 100W model, I can operate at QRP levels
on
 battery with no issues?

 Thanks!
 Ken/NO4D
 --
 View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/K3---Portable-Operation-tp15656862p15656862.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Portable Operation

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

I have not used my K3 portable yet, but I have no doubts that it would 
work just great. 

Since the K3 was *not* designed for minimum current draw on receive, if 
you are contemplating longish operating on battery, I might suggest a K2 
would be a better choice.  The K2 *was* designed for low receive current 
draw.  A QRP K2 with the internal battery and the KAT2 is very versatile 
for portable operation.  Of course, the  K1 and KX1 are also choices for 
CW only with good performance using even smaller batteries (or longer 
operating times with a larger external battery).


Yes, the K3/100 can be reduced to even QRPp levels.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Kirkley wrote:

I am very interested in the K3 for use as a portable rig while camping. Have
any of you new owners taken the K3 outside and operated portable on battery
power? If so, what were you impressions?

Additionally, if I build the 100W model, I can operate at QRP levels on
battery with no issues?

Thanks!
Ken/NO4D
  

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[Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread W7is
There is something else that burns up in those Yaesu analog
rotators besides the lamps.If you leave your rotator turned  on all the 
time,
you wont get much life out of either the lamps or the servo  motors.   
 
What I do is leave the rotator turned off unless its actually 
being used to rotate the ant.   Which is easy to do since  the 
on/off switch sits right next to the position buttons.   
 
I've never had to service the control box on the two Yaesu rotators
in operation here.   But if you leave it turned on you certainly  will.
Someday Yaesu might update their old line of analog rotators to the  digital
world.  Otherwise --  they are excellent rotators and a true  value.   
 
Frank W7is   
 
 



**Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.  
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)
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[Elecraft] RE: I can't convince myself that it works (was K3 Kit vs Ready Built)

2008-02-23 Thread Gary Hvizdak
At 11:58:34 EST on Sat 23 Feb 2008 Alan Bloom (N1AL) wrote ...

... bought one of those ESD mats.  But I can't convince myself that it
works.  If I touch my meter probes to the mat I measure infinity ohms, no
matter how close together the two probes are.  I know the meter works - If I
hold one probe tip in each hand the meter measures a few 10's of megohms.

--

Al,

An ESD mat is designed to very slowly dissipate static charges of up to
many thousands of volts, so it has a fairly high surface resistance and is
going to present essentially infinity ohms to your meter.  That said, if you
use probes with several square inches of surface area (such as by placing a
couple of cake pans from the XYL's kitchen) on the thing, then you might
measure something by placing your probes on the cake pans.  Note!  Even if a
single cake pan is larger than your mat, you can still use two of them by
separating them by perhaps an inch and letting both hang off opposite sides
of the mat.

If you don't measure anything using the cake pan method, there is
another science experiment you could do to test your mat, although it
requires that you can reliably draw a spark between a finger tip and ground
by doing something such as walking across a carpet.  If you can, then you
could first place your palm on the ESD mat for ten seconds after walking
across the carpet and then (with your palm still on the mat) touch ground
and see that you don't draw such a spark.  BTW, be sure that the mat is
grounded.

--- - - - ---

Keeping your mat clean of any contaminants (mostly oils from your hands,
but also solder flux splashes) will ensure that it continues to do its job.
Under heavy use, you should clean it at least every other week, or more
frequently if you notice that the surface appearance has changed.  Only
use products specifically designed for this purpose.

FYI, a quick Google for esd mat cleaner yielded 196 hits.

Then again, if you are only using the mat to build your K3, there's no
need to be concerned about cleaning it.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX

P.S.  Even though I'm a Software Engineer, I work at an aerospace manufac-
turing facility where we are required to attend periodic training on such
subjects.

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[Elecraft] RE: Your Elecraft K3 slide show (was K3 #464 Delivered, built and on the Air)

2008-02-23 Thread Gary Hvizdak
At 15:24:05 EST on 23 Sat Feb 2008 Ken Kirkley (NO4D) wrote ...

Hey Lee:
Is this slide show available on the net for download/view?

--

Ken,

See http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-February/083322.html
in the Reflector archives.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX


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[Elecraft] K2 KPA Low Power on 12 10 Meters

2008-02-23 Thread Larry Dodson
Naked K2 gives me good output on all bands.  Problem bands with KPA100
(12 Meters = 13.5 watts and 10 Meters = 10.8 watts).

Through the KPA100 into a dummy load gives 100 plus on all bands
except; 12 meters = 76 watts and 10 meters  47 watts. This is a new
problem and have looked at manual and cannot see a common link?  Help
would be appreciated before I open up my KPA.

Thanks - Larry (G0IKE) K2 #2424
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Portable Operation

2008-02-23 Thread Lyle Johnson

I am very interested in the K3 for use as a portable rig while camping. Have
any of you new owners taken the K3 outside and operated portable on battery
power? If so, what were you impressions?


We had three (3) K3s operating at K7S (Salmoncon 2007), last July.  Yes, 
they were field tester rigs.  They worked well for us.


We used a large battery and had no trouble keeping them going as long as 
we liked.  I also took mine to a Field Day site last year and let some 
of the folks operate it for a few hours.


Currently, the Ducie Island DXpedition is K3-equipped.  This is 
definitely portable/camping-on-the-beach operation :-)


 
URL:http://ducie2008.dl1mgb.com/pictures/index.php?imgdir=DXpedition%20-%202008%20Feb%2016page=3 
  and click on the two operating tent pictures.


Enjoy!

Lyle KK7P


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[Elecraft] Test Msg

2008-02-23 Thread Marty Green
New Subscriber
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KPA Low Power on 12 10 Meters

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Larry,

Since there is a significant difference between the power output on a 
dummy load and your antenna, look at your antenna system to see what can 
be done to make the feedline end at the shack look more like a 50 ohm 
non-reactive impedance.  That should make the KPA100 put out as much 
power as you find into the dummy load.


Further, 76 watts on 12 meters and 46 watts on 10 is not the way it 
should be - the KPA100 should be quite capable of producing 100 watts or 
more even on 10 meters.  Look at the Low Pass Filter carefully for a 
potential solution.  In addition, check the power output from the base 
K2 without the KPA100 attached.  If it is not 10 watts or more, you need 
to do some work on the base K2 - align the bandpass filter for 10/12m 
first, then check the low pass filter for 10/12m.  Be certain T2 is 
wound properly (like the diagram in the manual) and T2 is mounted 2 to 3 
mm above the RF board.


73,
Don W3FPR

Larry Dodson wrote:

Naked K2 gives me good output on all bands.  Problem bands with KPA100
(12 Meters = 13.5 watts and 10 Meters = 10.8 watts).

Through the KPA100 into a dummy load gives 100 plus on all bands
except; 12 meters = 76 watts and 10 meters  47 watts. This is a new
problem and have looked at manual and cannot see a common link?  Help
would be appreciated before I open up my KPA.

Thanks - Larry (G0IKE) K2 #2424

  

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[Elecraft] RE: ESD Mat

2008-02-23 Thread Dave Agsten

Per a request, here's some additional info on the ESD
mat from Radio Shack:

They call it an Anti-Static Service Kit.

Radio Shack Part# 276-2370

Specs:

Vinyl - 26 x 24 inches
Ground Cord 10' - Banana type plug or an alligator
clip
Connector: Banana Jack - built-in 1Meg Ohm resistor
Wrist Strap Length: 6'
Two Sewn-In Pockets

I was actually surprised to see that a small Radio
Shack in Fredericksburg, VA had three or four of these
in stock.

73,
Dave
N8AG 
K3/100 #414






  

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Re:[Elecraft] software to load K3 memories,

2008-02-23 Thread Joe Stofko
Hi Bill, 

I don't believe that there is. I would hope that
the firmware gang (hell Lyle!) might address this 
in the future. The firmware load utility allows the user
to save the K3 configuration so that it may be re-loaded
if need be. BUT, there is no way to take the config file
from the radio, edit it and then reload it.

The Yaesu FT897/857 models allow a user to
configure memories, etc. in software and then load the
file to the radio. This is a wonderful utility... and
saves a lot of time!  Loading ALL the memory positions
in the K3 (I cannot imagine anyone using every memory
slot!!) would take a lot of time...  A software utility
would make things so much easier. Configurations could 
be quickly updated... and, in fact, it would be great to
build a configuration file for a particular contest, for
example, and loaded into the K3 just for that event.

73, 
Joe - W1AIU

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me

2008-02-23 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka

I work for one of the companies in question, so it's hard for me to be
completely objective.

CPU frequency isn't the only thing because there are multiple internal
clocks on the CPUs and one big number isn't going to tell you
everything about how fast things are running internally. The Pentium D's
with higher clock rates aren't as fast as the Core 2's with lower clock
rates in every case I've benchmarked (keep in mind I have only a very
minimal set of benchmarks to go on here).

You should also look at power consumpution (the fans are going to drive
you nuts sometimes). I have noticed that the Core 2 processors are
faster but seem to run the fans a lot less than the Pentium Ds.

Multi-core processors are going to do well fo you if you need to do
multiple processor-intensive things at once.  I'm not sure how much
processor it requires to do PSK31 while also running all the Vista
nonsense in the background; someone else will have to vouch for that.

So by now you can probably tell which company I work for. My basic
suggestion is to go with a Core 2 system over a Pentium D system because
there was a significant architecture change and it helps the computers
run cooler and quieter. And that's just me talking, not the company.

Oh, and it's usually true nowadays that the computers are fast enough to
do whatever you need, unless you're processing video in the background
while you're trying to run the rig.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008, Robert Tellefsen wrote:


Hi Doug
You've got some real legitimate questions that a
lot of us non-gurus would like to hear the answers
to.  If you get a lot of your replies direct, could you
summarize them in a post to us masses?
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:49 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me



I want to hook my K3's up to the latest skimmer software along with
computer control of the rig, etc. and of course via the LP-Pan when

it

is available (soon).

My query is about the computer processor and associated elements.

Currently, I am reading that the way to go for skimmer (192kc
bandwidth - not that I need that), is to use a machine with a 3G
processor.

But that seems to only account for one element of the system

rating.


My current ham radio computer is a fossil on which I run DOS stuff.
But my home computer (this one) is a Pentium 4, 3.0 Gig.  Sounds
right, but..

When I look at the new machines (which seem relatively cheap for

what

you get), I see:

Core 2 Quad Q6600
Core 2 Duo
Pentiuim Dual Core
Celeron
Athlon 64
etc.

Then I see speeds for each of the above, NONE of which goes up to

3.0

gig.  Just because my current processor has the 3.0 gig label, I

am

assuming that these newer releases are even faster, despite the

lower

clock rate.

For the app's that I'm looking at, DOES CLOCK RATE RULE or does this
other stuff count too?

I also see big variables on the L2 Cache: 2MB, 4MB, 8MB - relatively
speaking, how important are these compared to the other factors?

And then there is the Front Side Bus speed:  800, 1333.  Weird that
the Core 2 Quad (which sounds like the best to me) has a FSB of

1066

(not the fastest).

And finally, there is the clock speed, which for most of the above

is

2.2, 2.33, 2.66 gig (again, not reaching 3.0).

How do I put all this together?  Again, for MY apps, which figure of
merit is most important?  Or do I just multiply them all together?
:-)

Reminder:  CPU gurus only need respond.  I prefer direct replies,
but I assume that this topic might be of wide interest to the

Elecraft

group...YOUR CHOICE if you respond to the list or just to me.

THANKS A TON!

de Doug KR2Q
Expert on DRGs, not CPUs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagnosis-related_group  this page is
rather outdated
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--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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RE: [Elecraft] ESD Mat - Helpful Hint

2008-02-23 Thread Robert Brigham

I ran into the same problem, then discovered the mat
lead reaches to the floor, so I put the strap around
my ankle. No more knocking the parts trays across the
workspace. I DO have to remember it's attached when I
get up :-o
Rob
KC6ROC
K2/100 #5924

--- WA6OCP [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 I am sure others may have discovered this, but I
 will mention it anyway.
 
 It takes about one second to find out that a wrist
 strap, and its lead, are
 frequently in the way.  I solved that problem by
 sliding the wrist band
 halfway up my forearm.
 
 Unfortunately, it doesn't remond you to take it off
 when you get up from the
 table or put it back on when you sit down.  ;-)
 
 72, Neal WA6OCP
 K3/10/305
 
 
 
 Dave Agsten wrote:
  
  Paul,
  
  I picked up an ESD mat at Radio Shack. I was a
 nice
  size, had pockets for tools to stay in, the wrist
  strap on a coiled cable and a 6 foot or so
 connection
  to ground either via and alligator clip or banana
  plug. The biggest problem was remembering to
  disconnect the wrist strap ( via a banana plug )
 when
  I got up from the table. :-)
  
  
  It was $24.95. The first employee in the store
 didn't
  have a clue as to what I was asking for.no
  surprise there.
  
  73,
  Dave
  N8AG
  k3/100 #414
  
  
   
 


  Be a better friend, newshound, and 
  know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
 

http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
 
  
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 -- 
 View this message in context:

http://www.nabble.com/RE%3A-ESD-Mat-tp15648544p15652833.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
 
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[Elecraft] VP6DX

2008-02-23 Thread Larry Makoski

Just worked 'em with 5 Watts - 2210 UTC on 18.076.
They're 599 in NJ and listening 1 up.

Even though I don't have one - tnx Elecraft for those K3's!

--
73 de Larry W2LJ
QRP - When you care to send the very least!

http://www.w2lj.qrpradio.com
http://w2lj.blogspot.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] software to load K3 memories,

2008-02-23 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I have asked Don of DogPark software to consider adding K3 management to
MacMemoriesManager - another good reason to use a Mac :-)


On 23/02/2008 22:26, Joe Stofko [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 Hi Bill, 
 
 I don't believe that there is. I would hope that
 the firmware gang (hell Lyle!) might address this
 in the future. The firmware load utility allows the user
 to save the K3 configuration so that it may be re-loaded
 if need be. BUT, there is no way to take the config file
 from the radio, edit it and then reload it.
-- 
The rung of a ladder was never meant to rest upon, but only to hold a man's
foot long enough to enable him to put the other somewhat higher.
-Thomas Henry Huxley, biologist and writer (1825-1995)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Output levels

2008-02-23 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
No at present, it just remembers the last power setting regardless of band

73 de M0XDF / K3 #174


On 23/02/2008 18:22, Harry Price [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 Hi,
 
 I asked this question here before but no one anawered it. Maybe it was
 considered a dumb question.
 
 Can the power output level of the K3/100 be individually programmed for
 different bands? For example to accomodate a low drive level 6M amplifier. I
 doubt it but thought I would ask as I cannot find anything in the literature
 on this. 
 
 It would be nice so that when you QSY'ed for a 6M band opening you would not
 over drive your 6M amp in the excitement.

-- 
Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right.
-Isaac Asimov, scientist and writer (1920-1992)



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[Elecraft] K3 CT 10.x for DOS

2008-02-23 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Anyone out there using K1EA's CT 10.x for DOS with the K3?  I'd like
to know which Kenwood model you selected for communication. (such as
850, 950, 2000, etc).

Thanks!

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me

2008-02-23 Thread Dave Andrus
I'd pretty much agree.  Keep in mind, though, that a dual-core or quad- 
core CPU, whether it's Intel or AMD, is not often going to help you  
with much of the software out there that is not specifically written  
to take advantage of both cores.


That's not to say that I wouldn't buy one--in fact, I'd definitely  
recommend any dual-core CPU over a Pentium D or single-core AMD if  
you're trying to buy something that will serve your general needs for  
the foreseeable future.  If you're trying to stay on the cheap side,  
any of those you mentioned will run PSK31 or the other sound card- 
based programs for ham communications, dual-core or not.


If any thing, I'd try to make sure that the box I buy has a decent  
name brand sound card in it, like a Sound Blaster Audigy or similar  
card, especially one that advertises more capability than a basic 16- 
bit A/D converter, which is what most Windows-type sound cards use.   
They'll all work fine, but a 20-bit card will give you some edge if  
you get into SDR (software-defined radio) designs or maybe next year's  
newest sound-card based ham decoders.


As far as front-side bus goes, the higher speeds, of course, will give  
you better performance.  The downside is that you will pay more for  
the faster memory sticks that are required.  Generally, you don't need  
the fastest front-side bus unless you're using software that really  
needs it, and it doesn't sound like you are.


If I were you, I'd probably opt for a mid-range 2+ GHz Intel Core 2  
Duo-based box that advertised its quietness.  I hate fan noise in the  
shack, and the older CPU's often run hotter than some of the newer  
dual-core stuff, requiring faster, noisier fans.


I'm sure that the advice to use a 3 GHz processor was assuming the  
old single-core technology.  Even though a dual-core CPU running at  
2 GHz won't run twice as fast as a single-core, you will definitely  
see a benefit compared to the faster single CPU.  Some of the  
operating system overhead (presumably Windows in your case) can be  
handled more efficiently by the dual-core structure, giving the  
appearance of a faster overall CPU experience to whatever program  
you're running.


Generally, I'd stay away from anything called Celeron these days.   
In earlier times it was Intel's code word for cheapest chip with less  
capabilities than the others.  Even if the clock speed is higher.


Bottom line: 2 cores at 2.0 GHz will generally run as fast or faster  
than a 3.0 GHz Pentium D with less heat.  A quad core box is great if  
you want to drop the money on it, but it won't be twice as fast as a  
dual-core unless you're running very specific software or an OS that  
can take advantage of it (like Mac OS X).  For front-side bus speed,  
go with whatever your pocketbook allows.  Faster is always better.   
And I'd generally recommend Intel over AMD, but that's a personal  
preference only.


Hope this helps a bit.

73,

Dave K7DAA
http://www.k7daa.com


On Feb 23, 2008, at 2:30 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:


I work for one of the companies in question, so it's hard for me to be
completely objective.

CPU frequency isn't the only thing because there are multiple internal
clocks on the CPUs and one big number isn't going to tell you
everything about how fast things are running internally. The Pentium  
D's
with higher clock rates aren't as fast as the Core 2's with lower  
clock

rates in every case I've benchmarked (keep in mind I have only a very
minimal set of benchmarks to go on here).

You should also look at power consumpution (the fans are going to  
drive

you nuts sometimes). I have noticed that the Core 2 processors are
faster but seem to run the fans a lot less than the Pentium Ds.

Multi-core processors are going to do well fo you if you need to do
multiple processor-intensive things at once.  I'm not sure how much
processor it requires to do PSK31 while also running all the Vista
nonsense in the background; someone else will have to vouch for that.

So by now you can probably tell which company I work for. My basic
suggestion is to go with a Core 2 system over a Pentium D system  
because

there was a significant architecture change and it helps the computers
run cooler and quieter. And that's just me talking, not the company.

Oh, and it's usually true nowadays that the computers are fast  
enough to

do whatever you need, unless you're processing video in the background
while you're trying to run the rig.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008, Robert Tellefsen wrote:


Hi Doug
You've got some real legitimate questions that a
lot of us non-gurus would like to hear the answers
to.  If you get a lot of your replies direct, could you
summarize them in a post to us masses?
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:49 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me



I want to hook my K3's up to the latest 

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - one more thing

2008-02-23 Thread Dave Andrus
Oops, one more thing I should add.  You didn't mention anything about  
any other parameters, such as disk speeds or types, or the amount of  
memory you'd buy, so I'll just make a quick comment about them.


If you're running Windows, I'd recommend 2 GB of RAM as a minimum.  4  
GB isn't considered outrageous if you're going to run Vista.  I know  
that sounds crazy if you haven't run Windows XP or Vista, but believe  
me, the amount of RAM you have in your system can make a bigger  
difference than a doubling of clock speed.  It's waaay different than  
the old DOS-based days.  Windows Vista starts to get really sluggish  
on 512 MB or less.  XP will run OK-ish on 256 MB or 512 MB, but it  
also will run faster with more RAM.


Disks:  These days, with disk capacities having grown by leaps and  
bounds, you do not save hardly any cash by specifying only an 80  
gigabyte disk compared to, say, a 250 GB disk.  Some of the bigger  
disks will also run faster than the smaller disks due to increased  
caches and internal geometries.  Many base-model systems now come  
standard with a 200 GB or larger disk.  500 GB disks are getting close  
to the sweet spot price-wise.  1 terabyte drives are very common.   
One of the new products we just designed at Apple includes a 1 TB  
drive, just for backups!


73,

Dave K7DAA
http://www.k7daa.com

On Feb 23, 2008, at 4:02 PM, Dave Andrus wrote:

I'd pretty much agree.  Keep in mind, though, that a dual-core or  
quad-core CPU, whether it's Intel or AMD, is not often going to help  
you with much of the software out there that is not specifically  
written to take advantage of both cores.


That's not to say that I wouldn't buy one--in fact, I'd definitely  
recommend any dual-core CPU over a Pentium D or single-core AMD if  
you're trying to buy something that will serve your general needs  
for the foreseeable future.  If you're trying to stay on the cheap  
side, any of those you mentioned will run PSK31 or the other sound  
card-based programs for ham communications, dual-core or not.


If any thing, I'd try to make sure that the box I buy has a decent  
name brand sound card in it, like a Sound Blaster Audigy or  
similar card, especially one that advertises more capability than a  
basic 16-bit A/D converter, which is what most Windows-type sound  
cards use.  They'll all work fine, but a 20-bit card will give you  
some edge if you get into SDR (software-defined radio) designs or  
maybe next year's newest sound-card based ham decoders.


As far as front-side bus goes, the higher speeds, of course, will  
give you better performance.  The downside is that you will pay more  
for the faster memory sticks that are required.  Generally, you  
don't need the fastest front-side bus unless you're using software  
that really needs it, and it doesn't sound like you are.


If I were you, I'd probably opt for a mid-range 2+ GHz Intel Core 2  
Duo-based box that advertised its quietness.  I hate fan noise in  
the shack, and the older CPU's often run hotter than some of the  
newer dual-core stuff, requiring faster, noisier fans.


I'm sure that the advice to use a 3 GHz processor was assuming the  
old single-core technology.  Even though a dual-core CPU running  
at 2 GHz won't run twice as fast as a single-core, you will  
definitely see a benefit compared to the faster single CPU.  Some  
of the operating system overhead (presumably Windows in your case)  
can be handled more efficiently by the dual-core structure, giving  
the appearance of a faster overall CPU experience to whatever  
program you're running.


Generally, I'd stay away from anything called Celeron these days.   
In earlier times it was Intel's code word for cheapest chip with  
less capabilities than the others.  Even if the clock speed is  
higher.


Bottom line: 2 cores at 2.0 GHz will generally run as fast or faster  
than a 3.0 GHz Pentium D with less heat.  A quad core box is great  
if you want to drop the money on it, but it won't be twice as fast  
as a dual-core unless you're running very specific software or an OS  
that can take advantage of it (like Mac OS X).  For front-side bus  
speed, go with whatever your pocketbook allows.  Faster is always  
better.  And I'd generally recommend Intel over AMD, but that's a  
personal preference only.


Hope this helps a bit.

73,

Dave K7DAA
http://www.k7daa.com


On Feb 23, 2008, at 2:30 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

I work for one of the companies in question, so it's hard for me to  
be

completely objective.

CPU frequency isn't the only thing because there are multiple  
internal

clocks on the CPUs and one big number isn't going to tell you
everything about how fast things are running internally. The  
Pentium D's
with higher clock rates aren't as fast as the Core 2's with lower  
clock

rates in every case I've benchmarked (keep in mind I have only a very
minimal set of benchmarks to go on here).

You should also look at power consumpution 

Re: [Elecraft] that mojo thing

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:30:14 -0500, you wrote:

Chris;
An Elecraft to Elecraft contact, would that be double Mojo or Mojo squared?

Which gives the formula E = Mc Squared

Where E = Elecraft, M = Mojo, c = contacts

Randy
K8RDD
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deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
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[Elecraft] K3 Bandwidth Offset with Latest Firmware

2008-02-23 Thread Don Ehrlich

Ever since loading the latest firmware this problem has occurred:

I am listening to a cw signal with the bandwidth set to maximum (2.8 Khz on 
the display)
I have centered a cw signal in the exact center of the cwt display .. I am 
exactly on frequency.

I have the bandwidth display centered using the shift control.

Then I reduce bandwidth slowly and when I get down to about 500 hertz the 
signal nearly disappears.  I can recover it using the shift control (about 
FC 35 on the display) but as I continue reducing bandwidth more and more 
shift is needed to hold the signal until at about 200 hertz bandwidth there 
is no signal left and the shift control is no longer effective.


Before the last firmware upgrade I could crank the bandwidth down to 50 
hertz while everything remained centered on the display.


I have checked and rechecked all filter settings.  They are all as I had 
them set up originally.


What has happened?

Don K7FJ
K3  #195
Filters:  6 KHz , Stock 2.7KHz, 200 Hz 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 14:30:46 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

[snip]

You should also look at power consumpution (the fans are going to drive
you nuts sometimes). I have noticed that the Core 2 processors are
faster but seem to run the fans a lot less than the Pentium Ds.

[snip]

I can say that you are quite right about the above.  I just finished building a
rack mount server last week with a Core Duo 2.4G processor with copper pipe
cooling running Win 2003 64 bit.  It runs cooler than any server I've ever owned
and performs very well. The fans are running on slow speed all of the time.  It
is a domain controller and also supports a SQL Server 2005 Enterprise 64 bit
installation.  tell you bosses (engineers) good work...

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] K2 Assembly Problems

2008-02-23 Thread DW Holtman
Hello,

I posted this a few days ago. I will cut and paste here again.

I'm in the middle of building a K2, S/N 6412.

While doing the Alignment and test Part 1, I had a couple of readings that 
were not in specs.

1. Page 48, Setting the AGC Threshold, the manuals calls for adjusting  R-1 
for a reading of 3.80VDC on pin 5 of U2. The highest R1 would adjust to is 
3.60VDC.

2.  Page 48 Bargraph Current test. The manual calls for a current reading of 
0.16 to 0.18. My K2 reads 0.25 amps. That is quite a bit higher than what is 
called for.

I received suggestions to check the voltage on the 8 volt regulator in the 
control board. It is just as suggested, the voltage is almost 1/2 volt low. 
Will a 7808 work? Is it the same as a LM2930T-8? They  both have the same NTE 
cross reference and are available locally.

I finally got around to reassemble for alignment part II. Some times, when it 
turns on, nothing happens, no display on the LCD, none of the controls do 
anything. After I turn it off and on a couple of times, it starts working as it 
is suppose to. This also happened in the first section for alignment where I 
had the problems listed above, I thought it was the memory initializing. This 
is not the case, it is still doing the same thing. Would the low 8 Volts cause 
the MCU to hang up?


Thank you for your help.

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:45:58 EST, you wrote:

There is something else that burns up in those Yaesu analog
rotators besides the lamps.If you leave your rotator turned  on all the 
time,
you wont get much life out of either the lamps or the servo  motors.   
 
What I do is leave the rotator turned off unless its actually 
being used to rotate the ant.   Which is easy to do since  the 
on/off switch sits right next to the position buttons.   
 
I've never had to service the control box on the two Yaesu rotators
in operation here.   But if you leave it turned on you certainly  will.
Someday Yaesu might update their old line of analog rotators to the  digital
world.  Otherwise --  they are excellent rotators and a true  value.   
 
Frank W7is   

[snip]

Never had a failure from my G-2800DXA which has been on for ten years.  However,
it could happen next week ;)

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Rework Elimination?

2008-02-23 Thread Robert G. Strickland

Curt...

I put a full complement of re-work eliminators in my K2, even though I had 
bought all the options - and installed them. I thought it very helpful to 
just work along and not have to worry about desoldering, cutting, pulling, 
etc as each option was ready. I have at one time or another pulled out an 
option to do something else with the stock K2, and in such cases having the 
re-work eliminators in place made it much easier that would otherwise be 
the case. The cost is minimal, and the actual workup and installation very 
easy. I recommend them.


...robert

At 02/23/2008 07:05, Curt wrote:
I've ordered a K-2 and contemplate adding the KSB2 and the KAT2 someday. 
Most likely will not implement any other options, mostly operate QRP CW. 
I'd appreciate comments about whether the re-work eliminator kits would be 
appropriate, or just an unnecessary expense.


72, Curt KB5JO


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Robert G. Strickland PhD ABPH - KE2WY
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Syracuse, New York  USA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Assembly Problems

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

DW,

First, the 7808 will work, but the stock regulator is a low dropout 
type, so if you replace it with a 7808, the power supply voltage that 
will create proper operation will have to be a bit higher.  That may 
make no difference if you are operating from a home station power 
supply, but if you are operating from a battery, the battery low voltage 
that will cause improper operation will be higher than with the low 
dropout regulator.  I suggest requesting a replacement regulator from 
Elecraft - [EMAIL PROTECTED]


The low 8 volt supply voltage will not cause an MCU failure - you have a 
different problem there.  Check the component values and check the 
soldering.  When you are finished, check the soldering.


73,
Don W3FPR

DW Holtman wrote:

Hello,

I posted this a few days ago. I will cut and paste here again.

I'm in the middle of building a K2, S/N 6412.

While doing the Alignment and test Part 1, I had a couple of readings that 
were not in specs.


1. Page 48, Setting the AGC Threshold, the manuals calls for adjusting  R-1 
for a reading of 3.80VDC on pin 5 of U2. The highest R1 would adjust to is 
3.60VDC.


2.  Page 48 Bargraph Current test. The manual calls for a current reading of 
0.16 to 0.18. My K2 reads 0.25 amps. That is quite a bit higher than what is 
called for.


I received suggestions to check the voltage on the 8 volt regulator in the 
control board. It is just as suggested, the voltage is almost 1/2 volt low. 
Will a 7808 work? Is it the same as a LM2930T-8? They  both have the same NTE 
cross reference and are available locally.

I finally got around to reassemble for alignment part II. Some times, when it 
turns on, nothing happens, no display on the LCD, none of the controls do 
anything. After I turn it off and on a couple of times, it starts working as it 
is suppose to. This also happened in the first section for alignment where I 
had the problems listed above, I thought it was the memory initializing. This 
is not the case, it is still doing the same thing. Would the low 8 Volts cause 
the MCU to hang up?


Thank you for your help.

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - one more thing

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 23 Feb. 2008 16:20:10 -0800, K7DAA wrote:

[snip]

1 terabyte drives are very common.   
One of the new products we just designed at Apple includes a 1 TB  
drive, just for backups!

Yep I just built a new server and added a 1T external drive for backups.

[snip]

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - one more thing

2008-02-23 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 2/23/08 8:54:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


 1T external drive for backups.
 

Western Digital makes a series of external drives that look like a book.

The case ventilation holes in the top spell out various words in Morse Code.

I am not making this up.

73 de Jim, N2EY


**
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL 
Living.
  
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Jim Cox
same here.   Keep the rotator box on all day long and no problems after 
using at least 6  years now.   Other than the lamps in the display of 
course.

Jim K4JAF


- Original Message - 
From: Tom Childers, N5GE [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA


On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:45:58 EST, you wrote:


There is something else that burns up in those Yaesu analog
rotators besides the lamps.If you leave your rotator turned  on all the
time,
you wont get much life out of either the lamps or the servo  motors.

What I do is leave the rotator turned off unless its actually
being used to rotate the ant.   Which is easy to do since  the
on/off switch sits right next to the position buttons.

I've never had to service the control box on the two Yaesu rotators
in operation here.   But if you leave it turned on you certainly  will.
Someday Yaesu might update their old line of analog rotators to the 
digital

world.  Otherwise --  they are excellent rotators and a true  value.

Frank W7is


[snip]

Never had a failure from my G-2800DXA which has been on for ten years. 
However,

it could happen next week ;)

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not
just the parts you like.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Rework Elimination?

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Curt,

If you only want to add the KSB2 and the KAT2, then just order the 
Rework eliminator parts for the KSB2 (the KAT2 does not need any).  
There is no need to install all the Rework Eliminator headers and 
components - install only what you will use later.


Actually, the hardest part of the KSB2 installation is adding the 
components on the front panel board.  If you add those at the time you 
construct the front panel board, it will save you work later.  The parts 
are included with the KSB2 option, so you have a choice of buying the 
KSB2 option with your initial K2 or ordering the Rework Eliminator parts 
for the KSB2 - your choice.


If you decide to order the KSB2 later, disassembling the Front Panel 
board from the actual front panel is not difficult - just remove the 
knobs and remove the encoder nut and remove one screw.  It is more of an 
emotional 'thing' than a real problem.


73,
Don W3FPR


Curt wrote:
I've ordered a K-2 and contemplate adding the KSB2 and the KAT2 
someday. Most likely will not implement any other options, mostly 
operate QRP CW. I'd appreciate comments about whether the re-work 
eliminator kits would be appropriate, or just an unnecessary expense.


72, Curt KB5JO


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?

2008-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

There is no right or wrong way to do it - S-meter readings are arbitrary 
given the S-meter response set into a variety of 'competitors' 
transceivers .  Take your pick and realize the consequences of your 
actions.  If you calibrate it with the preamp off ( which is what I 
would suggest on 40 meters), then the S-meter will be a bit more 
'lively' with the preamp on.  This choice is merely a matter of 
reference.  Bob Sherwood chose to set it with the preamp off, but you 
may like it better with the preamp on - the choice is yours - just 
remember which way you did it so you can interpret your S-meter readings 
appropriately.


73,
Don W3FPR

Phil  Debbie Salas wrote:
I see in the Yahoo K3 User's Group that Bob Sherwood just discussed 
filter performance with the K3 he has been testing.  He commented that 
S9 at 50uV is with the preamp off.  According to my manual, you should 
cal S9 at 50uV with the preamp on.  I cal'd as stated in the manual, 
but I wonder if this is really the right way to do this.  Comments?


Phil - AD5X


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CT 10.x for DOS

2008-02-23 Thread Bill W4ZV



DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 Anyone out there using K1EA's CT 10.x for DOS with the K3?  I'd like
 to know which Kenwood model you selected for communication. (such as
 850, 950, 2000, etc).
 
 

Mine worked fine in ARRL DX CW setting Kenwood 50 and 38400.  Something
happened during the latter part of the contest that caused CT to record 1836
as my frequency for all contacts after that point.  Not sure what caused
that but the K3 was controllable the entire time.

73,  Bill  W4ZV

-- 
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?

2008-02-23 Thread Bill W4ZV



Phil amp; Debbie Salas wrote:
 
 I see in the Yahoo K3 User's Group that Bob Sherwood just discussed filter 
 performance with the K3 he has been testing.  He commented that S9 at 50uV 
 is with the preamp off.  According to my manual, you should cal S9 at 50uV 
 with the preamp on.  I cal'd as stated in the manual, but I wonder if this 
 is really the right way to do this.  Comments?
 
 

You can calibrate it either way.  If you normally operate with preamp off as
Rob does then calibrating it with premap off makes sense.  If you normally
operate with preamp on then follow the manual.

73,  Bill  W4ZV

-- 
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http://www.nabble.com/K3-S9-calibration--tp15660022p15660103.html
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[Elecraft] K3 Ordered

2008-02-23 Thread Ken Kirkley

Ok...ok...do you remember the time you said no that you would not do
something and then you eat your words and do so? Well, when the first words
about the K3 hit the list and I was the price I said nope, not me...to much
money. Well...the order has been placed for the QRP K3 and ATU! I KNEW that
I should not start reading all of the reviews about the K3! I KNEW better
than to read the happy reports of those who had just completed the
building process!

Oh well, while I wait for the shipment in early summer, I have to sell some
equipment. Looks like I will have an Icom 746, a KX1, and probably my K2 up
for sell. Then again, I may keep the K2 and sell the TenTec Jupiter...hmmm
what to do?

Now the waiting begins!

73  God Bless!
Ken/NO4D
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[Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?

2008-02-23 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
I see in the Yahoo K3 User's Group that Bob Sherwood just discussed filter 
performance with the K3 he has been testing.  He commented that S9 at 50uV 
is with the preamp off.  According to my manual, you should cal S9 at 50uV 
with the preamp on.  I cal'd as stated in the manual, but I wonder if this 
is really the right way to do this.  Comments?


Phil - AD5X 


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: How to install LED bulb in Yaesu G-800DXA

2008-02-23 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 20:15:49 -0600, K4JAF wrote:

same here.   Keep the rotator box on all day long and no problems after 
using at least 6  years now.   Other than the lamps in the display of 
course.
Jim K4JAF


[snip]

Interesting about the lamps.  I installed an Idiom Press rotator control in my
G-2800DXA yesterday and now the compass lighting is not working :(  Anyone else
had that problem?

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] K3

2008-02-23 Thread Max Kempson
I tried out my K3 (194) during our National Field Day this weekend.  The
location was very noisy on 80M, a constant S7/9 power line type noise.  The
Noise Blanker had some effect but not much.  The Noise Reduction system
worked extremely well but was really unusable because on the aggressive
settings, although it completely removed the noise, the audio output level
was drastically reduced.

Am I missing something?  Still learning to get the best out of the K3.

73

Max  ZL4VV

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RE: [Elecraft] K2-Rework Elimination?

2008-02-23 Thread Gary Hvizdak
At 21:25:23 EST on Sat 23 Feb 2008 Don Wilhelm (W3FPR) wrote ...

... If you only want to add the KSB2 and the KAT2, then just order the 
Rework eliminator parts for the KSB2 (the KAT2 does not need any).  ...

--

Although there are isn't a KAT2 un-module, you will have to remove the
lower rear panel / heatsink to install P6 (the Aux RF plug) on the RF board
prior to installing the KAT2 option.  For an additional 90 cents you can
obtain this plug from us and install it during the initial build to avoid
this disassembly.  Otherwise, there's a chance that the PA thermal pads will
be damaged and need to be replaced.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX

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[Elecraft] CPU Speed

2008-02-23 Thread David Robertson
From Dave KD1NA
The speed of a computer is dependent on many things, memory size and speed, 
hard drive capacity and data transfer speed, and finally the power of the CPU. 

Now days CPU speed is less important then number of operations per clock pulse. 
You will find 3 gig clock speed CPU's but the important thing is
how many operations a CPU performs during a given period or time.  AMD Athalon 
and 64 bit processors out performed many Pentium 3 and 4 processors of higher 
clock speed
because they performed more steps per clock pulse.
Intel's answer was the multi core CPUs.

The bottom line is the newer (and lower clock speed) CPUs will beat the hell 
out of the older higher clock speed units.

73
Dave KD1na


From Doug KR2Q

I want to hook my K3's up to the latest skimmer software along with
computer control of the rig, etc. and of course via the LP-Pan when it
is available (soon).

My query is about the computer processor and associated elements.

Currently, I am reading that the way to go for skimmer (192kc
bandwidth - not that I need that), is to use a machine with a 3G
processor.

But that seems to only account for one element of the system rating.

My current ham radio computer is a fossil on which I run DOS stuff.
But my home computer (this one) is a Pentium 4, 3.0 Gig.  Sounds
right, but..

When I look at the new machines (which seem relatively cheap for what
you get), I see:

Core 2 Quad Q6600
Core 2 Duo
Pentiuim Dual Core
Celeron
Athlon 64
etc.

Then I see speeds for each of the above, NONE of which goes up to 3.0
gig.  Just because my current processor has the 3.0 gig label, I am
assuming that these newer releases are even faster, despite the lower
clock rate.

For the app's that I'm looking at, DOES CLOCK RATE RULE or does this
other stuff count too?

I also see big variables on the L2 Cache: 2MB, 4MB, 8MB - relatively
speaking, how important are these compared to the other factors?

And then there is the Front Side Bus speed:  800, 1333.  Weird that
the Core 2 Quad (which sounds like the best to me) has a FSB of 1066
(not the fastest).

And finally, there is the clock speed, which for most of the above is
2.2, 2.33, 2.66 gig (again, not reaching 3.0).

How do I put all this together?  Again, for MY apps, which figure of
merit is most important?  Or do I just multiply them all together?
:-)

Reminder:  CPU gurus only need respond.  I prefer direct replies,
but I assume that this topic might be of wide interest to the Elecraft
group...YOUR CHOICE if you respond to the list or just to me.

THANKS A TON!

de Doug KR2Q
Expert on DRGs, not CPUs
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?

2008-02-23 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

To ask the obvious question ... since the S-meter is derived 
from the DSP and the DSP/controller should know if the preamp is 
on or off, why are there not two sets of calibrations so 50 uV 
at the antenna input is S9 whether the preamp is on or off?  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
 Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 9:40 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?
 
 
 Phil amp; Debbie Salas wrote:
  
  I see in the Yahoo K3 User's Group that Bob Sherwood just 
  discussed  filter performance with the K3 he has been 
  testing.  He commented that S9 at 50uV is with the preamp 
  off.  According to my manual, you should cal S9 at 50uV 
  with the preamp on.  I cal'd as stated in the manual, but 
  I wonder if this is really the right way to do this.  
  Comments?
  
  
 
 You can calibrate it either way.  If you normally operate 
 with preamp off as Rob does then calibrating it with premap 
 off makes sense.  If you normally operate with preamp on then 
 follow the manual.
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://www.nabble.com/K3-S9-calibration--tp15660022p15660103.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 
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[Elecraft] K3 S meter

2008-02-23 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Didn't read somewhere at some time that the K3 would also display the
received signal in dbm?  That would solve a lot.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S9 calibration?

2008-02-23 Thread Vic K2VCO

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
To ask the obvious question ... since the S-meter is derived 
from the DSP and the DSP/controller should know if the preamp is 
on or off, why are there not two sets of calibrations so 50 uV 
at the antenna input is S9 whether the preamp is on or off?  


This was discussed among field testers. Some of them (me included) 
wanted the s-meter setting to be independent of preamp setting, but 
apparently the arguments that people will think the preamp doesn't 
work and other radios don't do this were more persuasive.


I suspect (but don't know for sure) that it would be possible to change 
this in firmware and maybe someday there will be an option to allow it 
to work this way.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] K3 Bandwidth Offset with Latest Firmware - resolved

2008-02-23 Thread Don Ehrlich
Well,  I had not checked all of the filter settings after all.  Two of my 
filters were set to OFF.

Doh !!

Sorry for the bandwidth.

Don K7FJ



Ever since loading the latest firmware this problem has occurred:

I am listening to a cw signal with the bandwidth set to maximum (2.8 Khz 
on the display)
I have centered a cw signal in the exact center of the cwt display .. I am 
exactly on frequency.

I have the bandwidth display centered using the shift control.

Then I reduce bandwidth slowly and when I get down to about 500 hertz the 
signal nearly disappears.  I can recover it using the shift control (about 
FC 35 on the display) but as I continue reducing bandwidth more and more 
shift is needed to hold the signal until at about 200 hertz bandwidth 
there is no signal left and the shift control is no longer effective.


Before the last firmware upgrade I could crank the bandwidth down to 50 
hertz while everything remained centered on the display.


I have checked and rechecked all filter settings.  They are all as I had 
them set up originally.


What has happened?

Don K7FJ
K3  #195
Filters:  6 KHz , Stock 2.7KHz, 200 Hz 


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[Elecraft] RE: I can't convince myself that it works (was K3 Kit vs Ready Built)

2008-02-23 Thread Alan Bloom
Hi Gary,

Yes, I know an anti-static mat is supposed to have high resistance, but
I'm surprised the Radio Shack model measures infinity ohms with my DVM. 
The meter is capable of reading resistance over 30 megohms (confirmed by
measuring my skin resistance).  I just tried your cake pan method and
still get no reading.

If you assume 100 pF body capacitance for the human body model, 30
megohms gives a 3 millisecond time constant.  A 1000V static zap would
discharge to 6.7V in 5 time constants = 15 ms.  So I guess maybe it's
OK, but it still makes me nervous that I can't confirm that the mat is
actually doing anything.

Al N1AL


On Sat, 2008-02-23 at 12:56, Gary Hvizdak wrote:
 At 11:58:34 EST on Sat 23 Feb 2008 Alan Bloom (N1AL) wrote ...
 
 ... bought one of those ESD mats.  But I can't convince myself that it
 works.  If I touch my meter probes to the mat I measure infinity ohms, no
 matter how close together the two probes are.  I know the meter works - If I
 hold one probe tip in each hand the meter measures a few 10's of megohms.
 
 --
 
 Al,
 
 An ESD mat is designed to very slowly dissipate static charges of up to
 many thousands of volts, so it has a fairly high surface resistance and is
 going to present essentially infinity ohms to your meter.  That said, if you
 use probes with several square inches of surface area (such as by placing a
 couple of cake pans from the XYL's kitchen) on the thing, then you might
 measure something by placing your probes on the cake pans.  Note!  Even if a
 single cake pan is larger than your mat, you can still use two of them by
 separating them by perhaps an inch and letting both hang off opposite sides
 of the mat.
 
 If you don't measure anything using the cake pan method, there is
 another science experiment you could do to test your mat, although it
 requires that you can reliably draw a spark between a finger tip and ground
 by doing something such as walking across a carpet.  If you can, then you
 could first place your palm on the ESD mat for ten seconds after walking
 across the carpet and then (with your palm still on the mat) touch ground
 and see that you don't draw such a spark.  BTW, be sure that the mat is
 grounded.
 
 --- - - - ---
 
 Keeping your mat clean of any contaminants (mostly oils from your hands,
 but also solder flux splashes) will ensure that it continues to do its job.
 Under heavy use, you should clean it at least every other week, or more
 frequently if you notice that the surface appearance has changed.  Only
 use products specifically designed for this purpose.
 
 FYI, a quick Google for esd mat cleaner yielded 196 hits.
 
 Then again, if you are only using the mat to build your K3, there's no
 need to be concerned about cleaning it.
 
 73,
 Gary  KI4GGX
 
 P.S.  Even though I'm a Software Engineer, I work at an aerospace manufac-
 turing facility where we are required to attend periodic training on such
 subjects.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2008-02-23 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   Today was a very nice day to work outside and clean inside.  Bright, sunny, 
and fairly warm.  Most of the snow is gone so you could go outside with only a 
light jacket.  As I was cleaning I found some old tapes.  I just listened to 
Beethoven's Appassionata Sonata, Bruce Springsteen's Born to Run, and currently 
a tape I made of the creek near my house in Wisconsin.  It is the middle of 
summer and you can hear the many planes flying overhead during the EAA fly-in.  
I went to my first fly-in when they were still in Rockford but they moved twice 
to get to their present location near Oshkosh.  Next I think I will listen to 
my Plasmatics tape for a little change of pace :)
   I did many amateur related activities this week but none of them were on the 
air.  I went to the ARES meeting on Tuesday, taught an ECOM class on Wednesday, 
while earlier in the week I had developed an ECOM training exercise for our 
county.  Other than that I just worked, went to school, and went to a lot of 
meetings.  That is why I needed to clean today.  I had no time to do much other 
than feed Sam and the fireplace throughout the week.  I am hearing all the 
birds singing as they wait their turn to bath in the pools next to the creek.  
I can feel the summer air and smell the creek simply from the tape I made in 
the early '90s!  I made another the next night but it was dominated by a few 
very, very loud crickets.
   Hopefully the bands will be good for us tomorrow.  Who can tell?  Soon I 
will move the second net back to 0200z because the sun is coming back north at 
a very nice pace.  That way I can make dinner between the nets like I used to.  
Well, I used to eat whatever Pat prepared and tell her about folks on the 
twenty meter net but I can no longer do that; I have to put up with whatever I 
cook :)  However, that is improving as the years go by.  I just heard a cicada; 
I have not heard one of those in many years.

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)
 
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay warm,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
ecn.visionseer.com  for net details


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