Re: [Elecraft] Firmware request KRC2

2008-08-31 Thread AD6XY

That might work! Presumably the other features of the KRC2 would not work
without also having the auxbus connected - not a big loss for me. It is
something I will try as it is only going to need a 9-way serial cable with
pins 4  6 disconnected via W16 and W20 just in case.

Considering all the other signals on the 15 way connector that I may need
some day, I think perhaps the long term solution will be to construct a
break out board from the 15 way to include a 9 way din for transverters and
KRC2 a connection for the band data, an ALC level converter op-amp and phono
sockets for the other signals (PTT. 2 Digital outputs, PTT, FSK and remote
power on). Point-point or a fairly simple PCB. If I make a PCB I might as
well decode the band data while I am at it.

Mike


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[Elecraft] Data modes

2008-08-31 Thread Ross
I have been playing with my new K3 (and enjoying it).
It looks like it will take over from my Orion II as my main tx.

A question.. Changing the data mode to AFSK A the bandwidth sets itself up for 
RTTY, as it is supposed to,
BUT when I go back to Data A the bandwith is still set up as for RTTY ie very 
narrow.
I have found the only way to set the bandwidth again to say 2.7khz is to 
readjust the width using width and lo

Is this normal, or am I expecting too much for the K3 to go back to a normal 
bandwidth when changing data modes
from AFSK A to data A

Best wishes to all
Ross
ZL1WN
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Re: Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread K7TV


But if you leave the setting at its nominal, can you hear the difference as 
that bandwidth is selected?  I'm not sure I understand the advantage you are 
gaining by bringing the crystal filter in later; I'll do if there's 
something to be gained, it sounds an interesting approach.

David
G3UNA


David,

Say that you have a 500 Hz (nominal) roofing filter with an (actual) 6-dB
bandwidth of 550 Hz. When you choose the widest DSP bandwidth at which this
roofing filter kicks in, here is what I think about the choices you have:

1. You have it kick in at 550 Hz DSP because it matches the DSP bandwidth.
This may create the steepest slopes, but I would avoid it for digital modes
since I would expect the group delays to vary near the flanks of the xtal
filter, but not near the flanks of the (FIR) DSP filter.

2. You have it kick in at 500 Hz DSP because it is a 500 Hz filter. This
logic makes no sense, since the xtal filter is actually 550 Hz.

3. You have it kick in at 500 Hz or less DSP because you want the DSP to cut
away the group-delay-varying portion of the xtal filter passband. This would
make sense. How much of the xtal filter response would of course depend on
the group delay characteristics of the particular xtal filter. Of course if
you don't use digital modes, you may want to go with approach #1.

4. You have it kick in at 600 Hz or above. Someone on the list suggested
that this approach made the receiver sound more pleasant. The effect would
essentially be to disable the DSP for receive purposes, except for the DSP's
big improvement in ultimate rejection, and any bandwidth-unrelated DSP
function that may be enabled. I have yet to hear for myself, but operating
this way makes little sense to me unless there is something wrong with the
DSP release.

As to my original question, it seems that most respondents like to vary the
DSP bandwidth as a means of switching the narrow xtal filter in and out, and
to do this without lots of strong closeby signals. If the xtal filter kicks
in according to #1 above, the composite bandwith of the two 550-Hz filters
will be much less than 550 Hz. This will of course create an exaggerated
effect of reducing the noise you hear, and here is an obvious risk of giving
the narrow xtal filter way too much credit. If instead the kick-in point is
set according to #3, you would reduce the effect of cascading on the overall
bandwidth, and results would be more meaningful. However, as has been
pointed out, it would be necessary to carefully adjust the gain for the xtal
filter. Also, you would have to somehow work around the variations in
effective DSP bandwidth step size, which have been stated to differ from the
expected 50 Hz steps (at every 200 Hz?).

Anyway, what I really wanted to know was NOT how the filters sound with just
background hiss or average signals on the band. The justification for the
narrow roofing filter would exist only if very strong interfering signal
levels get through the standard roofing filter. I am thinking CW, and in
case there is only one such signal, the AGC pumping would be easy to
recognize. My understanding is that with current production K3's this would
happen for an interfering signal level of somewhere around 25 to 30 dB over
S9.
In my mind, the interesting question is the case where there are multiple
interfering signals within the roofing filter passband, including qrn etc.
Even though these would not add up coherently, the peak voltage would grow
with the number of signals, such that the ADC overload level would be
reached without any individual signal reaching the 25 or 30 dB over S9. This
suggests that the hardware AGC ideally should have an extremely fast attack
time, and I assume that it does. When the hardware AGC responds under these
conditions, I am guessing that the effect might be an increase in the
general background noise heard. This is really what I was after. 



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Re: [Elecraft] Data modes

2008-08-31 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Ross-33 wrote:
 
 A question.. Changing the data mode to AFSK A the bandwidth sets itself up
 for RTTY, as it is supposed to,
 BUT when I go back to Data A the bandwith is still set up as for RTTY ie
 very narrow.
 I have found the only way to set the bandwidth again to say 2.7khz is to
 readjust the width using width and lo
 
 Is this normal, or am I expecting too much for the K3 to go back to a
 normal bandwidth when changing data modes
 from AFSK A to data A
 
 
I think you are. AFSK A, DATA A, FSK D and PSK D are all the same mode
really (they are reported as the same mode to logging software as well.) So
it remembers just one filter selection.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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[Elecraft] Fun with the K3...

2008-08-31 Thread Brett Howard
Just had an SCC RTTY station that was about 20 over 9 come all the way
down to 7.029.225 or so and was calling CQ while I was calling CQ on
7.029.000 with CW.  I had the filter wide enough that I could hear him
that far away incase someone called me off frequency.  Another person
joined me and he complained about a RTTY station near by.  I turned
down the width and the K3 dropped from my 1K filter to the 250Hz
filter and poof I was in my own world the +20 to 25 over RTTY station
was no where to be found.  Finally after we got into QSO the RTTY
station decided to head somewhere else.  Not exactly the most active
of contests but I'm usually calling CQ around 7.029 and didn't see any
reason to move cause someone strong came with in 250 Hz or so of me.
The Q is over now and I wish I'd turned off the 250Hz filter and left
the DSP bandwidth down at 100Hz or so where I was to see if the 250Hz
filter was really helping me there or not but I like to tell myself
that it did.. :)  Makes me feel like the extra fundage was worth
it  It will be for FD though in 2013 or so when the spots are
back.

Till then I'm having fun continuing testing on the 2.34 Beta.
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[Elecraft] Katiegram for SN 1570

2008-08-31 Thread Henrik Tuxen
Hej all, here is the plot info for SN 1570
Orderdate   28 APR 2008
Katiegram   26 AUG 2008
Arrival in DK   29 AUG 2008 @ 10:30 Local time
First power 29 AUG 2008 @ 21:30 Local time

Absolutely no problems with the build apart from getting the screws with
2 splitwashers to catch - that required a bit of force.

k3util installed perfectly on Ubuntu (required curl to download) and
communicates with the K3 using the K3USB interface (/dev/ttyUSB0).

MCU version 2.24, FPF version 0.02, DSP version 1.88.

I'm currently hunting the problem why I cannot get any modulation using
the MH2 microphone, but something will show. When that work I will
install the KPA3 module.

Vy 73 de OZ6WU
Henrik


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[Elecraft] UK Elecraft net report for Sunday 31st August

2008-08-31 Thread Dave G4AON
The net was busy again this week. I finally swapped my doublet to a 
dipole and so was able to run QRO with my Acom 1000 linear. Conditions 
were quite good with the continental QRM not being an issue and 
thankfully the QRN from lightning to the south died down from earlier in 
the morning. Several stations also used linears which may have helped to 
keep the frequency fairly clear.


Stations were:
M1PAF, Paul
G3JAG, John
G0VGS, Ian
G3RWF, Nick
G7BQM, Ted
G0MJW, Mike
M0GJH, Andrew
G0IDA, Berni
M3WCK, Colin
GM0ELP, Doug
G3MLO, Peter
GW0SYN, John

Next week will be SSB Field Day, so there may be a lot of QRM to contend 
with!


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80, Acom 1000, dipole
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware request KRC2

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

For use with the K3 serial port, put in the jumpers for a thru 
connection on pins 4 and 6 so any computer application you may want to 
use can have access to these K3 serial port pins for PTT and keying.


73,
Don W3FPR

AD6XY wrote:

That might work! Presumably the other features of the KRC2 would not work
without also having the auxbus connected - not a big loss for me. It is
something I will try as it is only going to need a 9-way serial cable with
pins 4  6 disconnected via W16 and W20 just in case.

Considering all the other signals on the 15 way connector that I may need
some day, I think perhaps the long term solution will be to construct a
break out board from the 15 way to include a 9 way din for transverters and
KRC2 a connection for the band data, an ALC level converter op-amp and phono
sockets for the other signals (PTT. 2 Digital outputs, PTT, FSK and remote
power on). Point-point or a fairly simple PCB. If I make a PCB I might as
well decode the band data while I am at it.

Mike


  




No virus found in this incoming message.
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[Elecraft] Antenna sharing question

2008-08-31 Thread Ian Maude

Hi all,
I have 6m on the K3, 2m on my XV144 and 4m to come.  I use only 1 
antenna with these, a Create log periodic.  Is there a simple way to 
connect all three to the aerial without using a switch?


73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455 


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna sharing question

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

May I suggest coax relays.  If you are using the K3 transverter band 
data outputs to activate the proper transverter, you can derive lines to 
activate the proper relay at the same time as the transverter.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Maude wrote:

Hi all,
I have 6m on the K3, 2m on my XV144 and 4m to come.  I use only 1 
antenna with these, a Create log periodic.  Is there a simple way to 
connect all three to the aerial without using a switch?




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[Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

2008-08-31 Thread Mike Scott
I am running K3 beta 2.34 / 1.89 and I am unable to save a K3 configuration.
I receive the following save configuration error:

Configuration was not saved.
The configuration file is incomplete, and man not be used for restore.

Is this a bug or is there something I need to do to make it work?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

2008-08-31 Thread Ken K3IU
I just saved a Configuration file. Worked fine here with the 2.34 
firmware suite.

73,
Ken K3IU

Mike Scott wrote:

I am running K3 beta 2.34 / 1.89 and I am unable to save a K3 configuration.
I receive the following save configuration error:

Configuration was not saved.
The configuration file is incomplete, and man not be used for restore.

Is this a bug or is there something I need to do to make it work?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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[Elecraft] [K3] Re: Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

2008-08-31 Thread Dave G4AON

Mike

I am using the same K3 firmware and just saved the configuration file 
without any error messages. My K3 utility is 1.1.6.3 running under XP 
Pro SP3.


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

I am running K3 beta 2.34 / 1.89 and I am unable to save a K3 configuration.
I receive the following save configuration error:

Configuration was not saved.
The configuration file is incomplete, and man not be used for restore.

Is this a bug or is there something I need to do to make it work?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

2008-08-31 Thread Dick Dievendorff
This generally indicates a marginal communications path. If you're using a
USB to Serial Adapter, try changing the K3's RS-232 rate to 38,400 and try
again.  It's counterintuitive, but sometimes the higher data rates work
better.

The K3 Utility issues a series of commands and is carefully analyzing the
response's format.  If the response comes back in other than the expected
format, after some number of retries the save is abandoned with this error
indication.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Scott
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:31 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

I am running K3 beta 2.34 / 1.89 and I am unable to save a K3 configuration.
I receive the following save configuration error:

Configuration was not saved.
The configuration file is incomplete, and man not be used for restore.

Is this a bug or is there something I need to do to make it work?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware request KRC2

2008-08-31 Thread AD6XY

The other method with AUXBUS almost works.

The new firmware has a compatibility mode added to the KRC2 config menu of
the K3. This should make the KRC2 show up as 10m or 60m on 6m. It actually
shows up as 160m with my system. So, as long as we don't mind 160m mapping
to 6m that is a solution. But I also discovered some other issues that had
me confused. If you loop through your transverters the 8R line (K3 Acc Pin
10 Key - Out LP) can not provide voltage drive for the 8R line of the KRC2. 

That was a surprise, the manual says it should be good for 10mA and only has
a series 220 ohm resistor, but from the schematic it looks like it is an
open collector line (Q7 on the main IO board). I suppose I am supposed to
pull it up. OK, I know I should look at the schematics but the manual should
have been clearer on this if that is the case.

The same goes for Pin 7 on the K3 which can not be used to provide the drive
for the KRC2. This is a logic I/O line and you need to use an external PSU.
I removed D2 from the KRC2 to avoid overloading the K3 should the KRC2 PSU
not be connected. The loop through is needed if you want to drive a KRC2 and
a transverter.

Mike


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 firmware v2.34 beta fiter selection issues

2008-08-31 Thread Paul Fletcher

Looks like this has been tracked down. Somehow (no idea how) I had different
filter enables for LSB and USB which was causing problems. TNX Wayne for
pointing me in the right direction. Reverted back to v 2.34 now.

Regards
Paul M1PAF
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RE: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
 SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
 RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!

Are you sure?  Most of those amplifiers had high voltage PTT 
circuits.  If I recall correctly the TR relay is a 120V 3PDT
unit.  You may need a buffer or soft-key circuit in your 
amplifier to make it safe with the K3. 

 If anyone knows where I can get a bandswitch wafer for
 the input coil selection I may be able to use this amp
 I bought. ;-)

At one time Harbach Electronics www.harbachelectronics.com 
had replacement wafers for the Heath amps.  Check with Jeff. 
He's also a good source of a soft-key circuit for the 
older amps. 




 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Rasmussen
 Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:19 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help. 
 
 
 Hi Guys,
 
 I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
 SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
 RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!
 
 I also found out that UPS had shattered the bandswitch
 on the sb221 I recently received and Heathkit is no
 longer around to get parts from. hi. 
 
 If anyone knows where I can get a bandswitch wafer for
 the input coil selection I may be able to use this amp
 I bought. ;-)
 
 Thanks,
 Don
 
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 MK2R+ audio hum issue (TOO LONG)

2008-08-31 Thread Bob Evans
Jim,

 

I am going through the same struggle with my K3s, MK2R and Heil ProSet.  I
didn't have as much hum as I did a hollow echo effect (RF feedback?), so I
hope this addresses your issues.  I have spent an incredible amount of time
trying to figure out the problems and there are many.  I don't know why
microHAM doesn't have suggested base configurations that would apply to all
implementations, but they don't.  They also have never heard of the a
picture is worth a thousand words phrase because their manual uses LOTS of
words and many of them add to the confusion by not indicating whether they
are referring to the sound card, MK2R or rig inputs and outputs.  Many of
the manual's sentences can be misinterpreted.  The manual was not written
with ease of use in mind and you are referred to outside experts to get
a complete history of ground loops rather than tucking a few good
practices into the manual.

 

Anyway, after trying suggestions from several sources, the ones that made
the most difference for me and ALMOST (I'm so close) have me running are
these:

 

1)   Use a separate ISOLATED power supply for each rig as well as the
MK2R.  I had been using a common power supply when I first started this
adventure.  I had to unsolder the AC line cord ground connection from inside
my Astron 35 amp supply and my MFJ 25A switching supply to let the 12VDC
float.  I am currently using my test bench isolated power supply to power
the MK2R during this setup phase and will have to acquire another isolated
supply when I move things off the test bench.

2)   Insert ground loop breakers in the receive audio lines (The DIN
plug line on the back of the MK2R that goes to each K3 headphone jack).  I
used some that I purchased from Radio Shack, but I'm sure a competent person
could build their own given enough time.

3)   Only use the FRONT panel headphone jack!  It makes a big difference
whether you use the rear headphone jack or the front panel jack for the
MK2R.  I had bad feedback when I plugged into the rear headphone jack and it
was greatly reduced when I used the front panel jack.

4)   Get a bunch of ferrite torroids and wrap everything!  Mic line,
power supply lines, headphone lines.

 

I'm getting very close to being able to take this setup to my contest
station and putting it on the air with big antennas and amplifiers.  My home
test station is a terrible RF hole (second floor room, no proper ground,
antennas in attic over head, etc.) so if I can get it running here, I
believe I'll be in good shape when I take this setup to my contest station
where conditions are much better.

 

Bottom line, I am not deeply steeped in the engineering arts and don't have
enough time to endlessly dig into the pin 1 problem.  I am an admitted
appliance operator who just likes to enjoy operating with minor excursions
into a deeper understanding of theory when it moves up my priority scale.  I
don't completely understand why the above suggestions worked for me, but
they did.  Hopefully, my bullet points above can get you going with these 4
steps while others can pontificate about why it worked.  I'm just glad
Elecraft didn't make me study a DSP engineering manual before I turned on my
K3s.  ;-)

 

Bob K5WA

K3 #234 and #752

K2 #4687

 

 

Message: 8

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:26:43 -0500

From: Jim Harvey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Subject: [Elecraft] K3  MK2R+ audio hum issue

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 

I just received my K3 yesterday and have it interfaced to my Microham MK2R+.

CW operation is perfect but I have some audio hum and distortion in the

monitor on SSB. I'm using a Heil Proset connected to the MK2R+. Joe, W4TV,

has given me some good suggestions but the problem is still there. Is there

anyone else using this combination that can help?

 

 

 

Jim N0AV

 

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[Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread LANCE COLLISTER

Hello K3 gurus!

I received my factory built K3 this past week, and yesterday received my K2 
Heil 
Pro-set and some Anderson Powerpole connectors...  Last night I wired up a 
serial 
line splitter so I could connect my K3's serial port to the same serial cable 
that 
goes to my sequencer (that will switch any of my XMTRS into XMIT)and CIV level 
converter (for my IC746).  So it looks like I am getting close to being able to 
make 
some noise with it ;-)

Currently, I run my Heil #5 boom mic (along with the LINE OUTPUT from my 
computer) 
through a W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate (and then through interrupt 
relays) 
before they go to the Mic input of the IC746.  With the K2 Pro-set from 
Elecraft, I 
received a resistor and a bunch of jumper connectors with an instruction sheet 
on 
modifications I need to make to the K3 so it will be able to work with the K2 
Pro-set.

My question is this:  If I use the current microphone/audio in arrangement, do 
I 
still have to modify the K3 for the K2?  If I install all the jumpers and 
resistor 
into the K3, will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise 
Gate 
in front of the K3?  Will I harm anything by just trying different setups the 
way the 
K3 came from the factory?

MNI TNX for any guidance or suggestions you may be able to provide.  VY 73, 
Lance
-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT  59834  USA
QTH: DN27UB
TEL: (406) 626-5728
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

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[Elecraft] KRX3 installed, and a question

2008-08-31 Thread Bruce Beford
I installed the KRX3 subreceiver in my K3 last night/this morning. Things
went pretty well, with just a couple of trivial typos in the instructions. I
have the KRX3 configured on, and have just 1 filter, 2.8Khz in position FL2
at this time. All other slots configured off.

I have the latest firmware installed, and am learning the various controls.
It appears to work as advertised, with one exception. I have a distinctly
lower volume level coming from the KRX3. When using headphones, and the KRX3
listening on the main antenna, I have to set the sub volume about 30-40%
higher than the main volume knob to balance the levels. Both RXs using the
same filter (2.8KHz). Filter gain is set to zero on both. Is there any
simple config item I may have missed? I'd like to find the source of the
issue, rather than try to hide it by dialing in more gain into the sub RX
for this filter.

I'm off to assist another ham with an antenna, and will check for any
suggestions later this afternoon.

Tnx,
Bruce N1RX
K3 #559


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Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread Guy, K2AV



. Maybe
I should have ordered the 200 Hz 5-pole instead, but I got it into my head
that maybe the 8-pole filters were better in some way.  I didn't repeat
this mistake when I ordered filters for the subreceiver.

Dick, K6KR

I know I will incur some religious wrath from some however here is the
OTHER side of that argument.  It's not that I am denying the issues that are
raised to question getting the two 8 pole CW filters (400 and 300 in
actuality).

I am solving a SINGLE happenstance which occurs over, over, over and over
again in contests, so much so that until the K3 it was in my mind the
LIMITING issue in improving 40m CW DX scores. 

I am at a contest station in eastern NC just off Pamlico Sound. On 40m to
Europe we are using a 5 element wire quad suspended across a 220 foot NE/SW
catenary between two towers. 

Broadcast signals above 7.1 routinely peg meters and light all the lights. 
So do some US stations in the NE, and so do some number of VERY LOUD
European stations (VLS).  WHAT they are doing to be so loud is not part of
my exposition. They just are very loud.

At some point in the contest, one has worked all the VLS, loud, medium and
well-antenna'd QRP signals. What remains is a bewildering and seemingly
bottomless pool of stations that can hear us (QRO on 5 elements) and are
trying to work us on antennas with the gain of a basement floor joist wet
noodle antenna. There are hundreds and hundreds of these. We have some
number of recordings made in Europe of these, and they are quite weak over
there. 

It is guaranteed, only a matter of time, and sometimes immediate, that a VLS
will settle in the next slot above or below. They may be as close as 350 Hz.
The problem now is working the QRP wet noodle station who is into the noise
without hardware AGC pumping or other effects from a VLS INSIDE the roofing
filter that was set to hear stations who will call sometimes +/- 200-250 Hz.  

I need the roofing filter is to get down 30 db as quickly as possible,
without giving up too much of the +/- 250 Hz. The 400 Hz is a good width
even for VLS +/- 500 Hz.  If a VLS squeezes me on one side, I only want to
give up +/- real estate in the roofing filter on that side. The procedure is
to drop to 300 hz roofing and DSP and move the RX center 50 hz away from TX
frequency and the VLS. I give up listening so far on the side of the VLS,
but keep the real estate on the other side.  

It is a matter of the width out to the edge and the largest db drop per 10
hz in the skirts thereafter. The roofing filter keeps the VLS from getting
into the hardware AGC or pushing the DSP to the extreme.  

I have used both of these filters for years in my FT1000MP and am completely
familiar with their shape and use in a contest. 

I have heard it said that the 200 5 pole filter will do better for picking
out signals in a very crowded situation, perhaps so in an extremely tight
situation. But thus far I have been able to go narrow with the 300 8 pole
and it is the DSP handling the work there. 

At some point I would like to be able to tune the center of the DSP CW
selectivity up/down at 25 Hz rate using RIT *WITHOUT* moving the position of
the roofing filter relative to the band.  The point of the roofing filter is
to reject the VLS in the next slot above and below me. Tune the whole thing
up or down to listen to a weak station off-frequency for whatever reason and
you let one of the VLS in under the roof.

Just the view from the other side of the river... :)


73, Guy. 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Hearing-the-effect-of-narrower-roofing-filter-tp470635p795536.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 s/n 1567

2008-08-31 Thread Dan Atchison
K3, s/n 1567, is up and running. From order to receipt, exactly 4 
months. Ten hour build, short shipped two screws which could have been 
a completion breaker had I not had some in the shack (2-56, 1/4 inch). 
What a hoot this little wonder is!


73,
Dan -- N3ND
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34

2008-08-31 Thread Dave Larson

I just tried it and it works for me.

Dave, K8AA

- Original Message - 
From: Mike Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 9:31 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Unable to save configuration, beta 2.34


I am running K3 beta 2.34 / 1.89 and I am unable to save a K3 
configuration.

I receive the following save configuration error:

Configuration was not saved.
The configuration file is incomplete, and man not be used for restore.

Is this a bug or is there something I need to do to make it work?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1643 - Release Date: 8/30/2008 
5:18 PM


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[Elecraft] K3 - Temperature Specifications

2008-08-31 Thread Stewart Baker
I have had my K3 on receive most of the day, whilst doing other
things in the shack.

By chance I touched the top of the case and it felt quite hot,
given that the shack temperature is 26 deg. According to the LCD
readout both the FP and PA temps were at 34 deg.

It got me wondering,  what are the temperature specifications for
the K3 ?
I have looked through various paperwork on the Elecraft site, but
can find no information on the subject.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
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[Elecraft] K3 FTP Beta Files

2008-08-31 Thread Larry P. Greenberg
A few days ago, I was able to download and install MCU 2.32, the firmware beta 
version.  Yesterday, MCU 2.34 became available correcting some code of 2.32.  
With this new version, when I either click on the FTP site in the download 
instructions or insert the URL into my browser, my browser just hangs.  The 
instructions state, NOTE: On some computers, it may take some time for a 
directory of the beta files to appear.  However,hanging for over thirty 
minutes before I got out of the browser seems too long and the directory of 
files comes right up on another computer I have.  Does anybody on the list know 
why my browser (Internet Explorer) seems to go off into never-never land when I 
try to get this file?  MCU 2.32 downloaded just file.  Also, I even erased my 
Temp Internet Files, Recycle Bon, etc.  

Larry, WA9MAG

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RE: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread John King
My old SB-220 works just fine with my K3 on CW.

Yes, the SB-220's key line is 120 VDC. The kind that
will make you let go real quick if you accidentally
grab it. The K3 doesn't mind it. The K3's Key Out is
rated for +200V at 5 Amps.

The stock SB-220 won't do QSK, of course. Set the
K3 to semi-breakin with a hold delay long enough to 
keep the amp keyed between characters, and you're
good to go. FB

73,
  john WA1ABI



 
 
 
  I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
  SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
  RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!
 
 Are you sure?  Most of those amplifiers had high voltage PTT 
 circuits.  If I recall correctly the TR relay is a 120V 3PDT
 unit.  You may need a buffer or soft-key circuit in your 
 amplifier to make it safe with the K3. 
 
 Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 installed, and a question

2008-08-31 Thread Lyle Johnson

I have the latest firmware installed, and am learning the various controls.
It appears to work as advertised, with one exception. I have a distinctly
lower volume level coming from the KRX3. When using headphones, and the KRX3
listening on the main antenna, I have to set the sub volume about 30-40%
higher than the main volume knob to balance the levels. Both RXs using the
same filter (2.8KHz). Filter gain is set to zero on both. Is there any
simple config item I may have missed?


For the moment, ensure that MENU:AF GAIN is HI rather than LO.  We' just 
found this and Wayne and I were just on the phone a few moments ago 
discussing it. Yeah, I know, Sunday morning on a holiday weekend...


73,

Lyle KK7P

Hi!  My name is Lyle and I'm a workaholic...

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 filters

2008-08-31 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 I would like the 250 hz 8 pole filter for cw. Should I also get 
 the 400 hz filter for ssb.

The 400 Hz filter is far too narrow to be useful in SSB - you don’t 
want a bandwidth less than 1500 to 1800 Hz for voice use although 
bandwidths as low as 800 - 1000 Hz may be useful for some digital 
modes.  

I would not recommend both the 400 Hz and 250 Hz in the same radio. 
The reference plots for the 250 Hz and 40 Hz filters on the Elecraft 
web site: http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_8_pole_plots.htm show the 
250 Hz filter to have a bandwidth of 370 Hz and the 400 Hz filter 
to have a bandwidth of 435 Hz.  

There is not enough difference between the 250 and 400 Hz filters 
for you to notice in actual operation. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott McDowell
 Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 11:32 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 filters
 
 
 I have a k3/100 ordered and am trying to decide on filters. I 
 would like the 250 hz 8 pole filter for cw. Should I also get 
 the 400 hz filter for ssb. Scott N5SM 

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Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread alsopb

Guy,

Wouldn't a deep, tunable narrow notch filter also be a solution.  
The present notch filter is as wide as a barn door and useless for CW.  
I'm not a DSP programmer, but wonder how hard it could be to implement one.

After there is a narrow notch in the present RTTY dual passband filter.
If one can do a double hump filter with notch in the middle, why not just a
narrow notch filter?

73 de Brian/K3KO  




Dick Dievendorff wrote:
 
 . Maybe
 I should have ordered the 200 Hz 5-pole instead, but I got it into my head
 that maybe the 8-pole filters were better in some way.  I didn't repeat
 this mistake when I ordered filters for the subreceiver.
 
 Dick, K6KR
 
 I know I will incur some religious wrath from some however here is the
 OTHER side of that argument.  It's not that I am denying the issues that
 are raised to question getting the two 8 pole CW filters (400 and 300 in
 actuality).
 
 I am solving a SINGLE happenstance which occurs over, over, over and over
 again in contests, so much so that until the K3 it was in my mind the
 LIMITING issue in improving 40m CW DX scores. 
 
 I am at a contest station in eastern NC just off Pamlico Sound. On 40m to
 Europe we are using a 5 element wire quad suspended across a 220 foot
 NE/SW catenary between two towers. 
 
 Broadcast signals above 7.1 routinely peg meters and light all the lights. 
 So do some US stations in the NE, and so do some number of VERY LOUD
 European stations (VLS).  WHAT they are doing to be so loud is not part of
 my exposition. They just are very loud.
 
 At some point in the contest, one has worked all the VLS, loud, medium and
 well-antenna'd QRP signals. What remains is a bewildering and seemingly
 bottomless pool of stations that can hear us (QRO on 5 elements) and are
 trying to work us on antennas with the gain of a basement floor joist wet
 noodle antenna. There are hundreds and hundreds of these. We have some
 number of recordings made in Europe of these, and they are quite weak over
 there. 
 
 It is guaranteed, only a matter of time, and sometimes immediate, that a
 VLS will settle in the next slot above or below. They may be as close as
 350 Hz. The problem now is working the QRP wet noodle station who is into
 the noise without hardware AGC pumping or other effects from a VLS INSIDE
 the roofing filter that was set to hear stations who will call sometimes
 +/- 200-250 Hz.  
 
 I need the roofing filter is to get down 30 db as quickly as possible,
 without giving up too much of the +/- 250 Hz. The 400 Hz is a good width
 even for VLS +/- 500 Hz.  If a VLS squeezes me on one side, I only want to
 give up +/- real estate in the roofing filter on that side. The procedure
 is to drop to 300 hz roofing and DSP and move the RX center 50 hz away
 from TX frequency and the VLS. I give up listening so far on the side of
 the VLS, but keep the real estate on the other side.  
 
 It is a matter of the width out to the edge and the largest db drop per 10
 hz in the skirts thereafter. The roofing filter keeps the VLS from getting
 into the hardware AGC or pushing the DSP to the extreme.  
 
 I have used both of these filters for years in my FT1000MP and am
 completely familiar with their shape and use in a contest. 
 
 I have heard it said that the 200 5 pole filter will do better for picking
 out signals in a very crowded situation, perhaps so in an extremely tight
 situation. But thus far I have been able to go narrow with the 300 8 pole
 and it is the DSP handling the work there. 
 
 At some point I would like to be able to tune the center of the DSP CW
 selectivity up/down at 25 Hz rate using RIT *WITHOUT* moving the position
 of the roofing filter relative to the band.  The point of the roofing
 filter is to reject the VLS in the next slot above and below me. Tune the
 whole thing up or down to listen to a weak station off-frequency for
 whatever reason and you let one of the VLS in under the roof.
 
 Just the view from the other side of the river... :)
 
 
 73, Guy. 
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Hearing-the-effect-of-narrower-roofing-filter-tp470635p795593.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] (2) K2 rigs available will SELL either one.

2008-08-31 Thread Robert L Kalkwarf
Hi, I have (2) K2 rigs and would like to sell one of them to finance  
some additions.  I have not been watching current values so I simply  
printed the parts lists from Elecraft.  I know these are new inflated  
prices and only include for some idea of new parts cost for these  
radios.  Please offer according to todays resale value.  I can  
reconfigure either rig to you specification based on the parts in the  
radios. All parts at current REV level.


ETS2 Standard Tilt Stand for the EC2 $14.00
FDIMP Finger Dimple for K1/K2 $6.00
K160RX K2 160M / 2nd RX Antenna Option $39.00
K2 K2 HF Transceiver $659.00  Serial 4011
KAF2 K2 Audio filter and Real Time Clock $79.00
KAT2 K2 20W Internal Auto Tuner $169.00
KBT2 K2 Internal 2.9AH Battery Kit $69.00
KDSP2 Advanced K2 DSP Filter $229.00
KIO2 K2 AUX I/O RS-232 Interface $99.00
KNB2 K2 Noise Blanker $39.00
KSB2 K2 SSB Option $99.00
MH2 Hand Mic. for K2/K3. $59.95

Subtotal: $1560.95

ETS2 Standard Tilt Stand for the EC2 $14.00
FDIMP Finger Dimple for K1/K2 $6.00
K160RX K2 160M / 2nd RX Antenna Option $39.00
K2   K2 HF Transceiver $659.00 Serial 4931
KAF2 K2 Audio filter and Real Time Clock $79.00
KAT2 K2 20W Internal Auto Tuner $169.00
KIO2 K2 AUX I/O RS-232 Interface $99.00
KSB2 K2 SSB Option $99.00 (Unopened NEW kit Aug 2008)
Kenwood MH43S Hand Mic. for K2/K3. $59.95

Subtotal: $1223.95

Bob W7WO Lacey, Wa

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] K3 Key Out

2008-08-31 Thread W6SX Hank Garretson



The K3's Key Out is rated for +200V at 5 Amps.


Inside the K3, is Key Out a relay or solid state?


73,

Hank, W6SX

Mammoth Lakes, California

Elevation 8083 feet in John Muir's Range of Light 



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[Elecraft] RE: Elecraft Digest, Vol 52, Issue 50

2008-08-31 Thread ww2r
I am also having the same issue with the tune not working intermittantly and
having to to a power cycle to get it back into action

I have also noted that with the phono on the back panel activated to key a
PA,  the pa gets keyed for 2 seconds when i power up the k3; not good.
Anyone else seeing this?

I have gone back to 2.26 (as supplied in the kit)

Dave

WW2R

--

Message: 21
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 19:54:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Paull [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] HRD with 2.34
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi All:
I seemed to be having problems with NR not responding constantly when
selecting it. Sometimes it would turn on sometimes not, the same with tune,
tx not able to disable them once set. If I powered the rig down they would
work for a bit then go back to the same mode.

This all worked prior to the 2.3x series of Beta. I tried for a sanity check
to send the commands manually and got similar results, intermittent changes,
that took HDR out of the loop.
So I am going to go back to 2.23 and relax over the Labor day weekend and
let the folks at Aptos figure out what is going on.

73's
Bob Paull
KK6UE
k3 681


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Key Out

2008-08-31 Thread Vic K2VCO

W6SX Hank Garretson wrote:



The K3's Key Out is rated for +200V at 5 Amps.


Inside the K3, is Key Out a relay or solid state?


It's an IRFI630 MOSFET.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] a/b vfo's

2008-08-31 Thread Todd Ruby
Many thanks to all who came quickly to my aide in unlinking the A and  
B VFO's. I have now learned a new function on my K3.


The elecraft community is a phenomenal resource that I have accessed  
for assistance a few times since operating the radio. I have come to  
count on the right answer every time and it usually comes within 15  
minutes!





73
de
todd
WB2ZAB

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[Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Guy, K2AV said,
The point of the roofing filter is to reject the VLS in the next slot
above and below me.

Hmmm.  This is not at all how I see the primary function of a roofing
filter.  What you describe sounds to me like the function of the final
BW filtering.

When I use a rig on 40m cw (since I'm also a contester on the east
coast) that has a wide roofing filter (eg, 48 or 24kc), I hear IMD
across the band (beeps, squeals, corrupted cw).  Some of these
phantom signals are louder than the weak guys I want to work and
hence cover them up.  With the K3, utilizing a narrow roofing
filter addresses the IMD problem.  Even the 2.7kc filter is a pretty
darn narrow roofing filter and I have yet hear IMD on 40m using it.
Since I almost always use the 500hz roofer when I'm on 40m cw, I again
have not had an IMD issue.

That is not to say that when someone moves in close to the QRG of a
weak guy, that I don't hear the effect of them being close...but
narrowing the DSP filter a bit (which is functioning at both IF and AF
in the K3) gets rid of them most of the time.  If they are really
close, adjusting the DSP down to 50hz does the trick 99.9% of the
time.  If the two signals are on top of each other, well, nothing
works.

As for pumping the AGC, you can always turn the AGC off and ride the
RF gain.  But it has been my experience that (a) either the loud guy
who is close will move away (b) trying to fight such a situation (and
trying to win) can cost you more points than it is worth.  And if the
other guy is THAT CLOSE and you are both running, then there is always
some doubt as to which one of you the weak DX is actually answering
(again, bad for the score).

Just my observations...YMMV.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 MK2R+ audio hum issue (TOO LONG)

2008-08-31 Thread Jim Brown
On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 09:32:51 -0500, Bob Evans wrote:

The manual was not written with ease of use in mind and you are 
referred to outside experts to get a complete history of ground 
loops rather than tucking a few good practices into the manual.

I don't know anything specific about the MK2R, but many (most?) ham 
and computer audio products are built with very WRONG grounding 
practices. Indeed, most ham transceivers, including the K3, do some or 
all of this stuff wrong!  

There's a lot of VERY wrong thinking about hum, buzz, and ground 
loops, and that has led many folks to some really dumb practices that 
often CAUSE problems rather than solving them (and that are often a 
lot more expensive than solving the real problem). 

To understand what's REALLY going on with so-called ground loops 
(and some VERY low cost solutions), have a look at 

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  

and 

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/HamInterfacing.pdf

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread Jim Brown
On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:32:58 +, LANCE COLLISTER wrote:

will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate 
in front of the K3? 

Why would you want to?  Sell it on EBay!  The K3 includes an EXCELLENT 
audio equalizer that does everything you need and is quite easy to 
adjust. 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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RE: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Guy, 

 I need the roofing filter is to get down 30 db as quickly as 
 possible, without giving up too much of the +/- 250 Hz.

A careful comparison of the 500 Hz 5-pole filter, 400 Hz 8-pole 
filter, 250 Hz 8 pole filter and 200 Hz 5 pole filter shows 
some interesting things ... 

1) my 500 Hz filter is really 470 Hz at - 6dB ... this is 
   consistent (460 - 490 Hz) with measurements reported by 
   others.  I intend to check the two other 500 Hz filters 
   received with my second K3/KRX3 when I have some time. 

2) the -30 dB bandwidth of my 500 Hz filter (780 Hz) is not 
   significantly different than the -30 dB bandwidth of the 
   400 Hz filter reported on the Elecraft web site (680 Hz) 
   when cascaded with a DSP filter at 400 or 500 Hz.  

   I set my K3 so the 500 Hz filter engages at 450 Hz.  It 
   is on-line when normalizing the CW filters but is off-line 
   when selecting a composite bandwidth wider than the filter. 

3) the 200 Hz five pole filter (209 Hz measured) is narrower 
   than the 250 Hz filter down to at least -40 dB without any 
   any benefit from cascading with DSP.  

For CW specifically, it's hard to justify the 400/250 Hz pair 
with their relatively small difference in bandwidth and their 
significantly greater cost compared to the 500/200 Hz pair. 

To be an effective alternative to the 400 Hz (450 Hz from 
Inrad curves, 435 Hz from Elecraft curves) filter, the 250 Hz 
8-pole really needs to be held to the nominal 250 Hz bandwidth 
so that the difference will be useful.  Even in a worst case 
(e.g. 40 meters in Europe) scenario, reducing the pre-DSP 
bandwidth from 450 to 370 Hz is not likely to be significant.  

 I have used both of these filters for years in my FT1000MP 
 and am completely familiar with their shape and use in a 
 contest. 

The 250 Hz filters in an FT1000MP is an entirely different 
situation.  In the FT-1000D/FT-1000MP, there are two filters 
- each approximately 350 Hz wide - in cascade yielding a 
composite 250 Hz (at -6dB) bandwidth.

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Guy, K2AV
 Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 10:46 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter
 
 
 
 
 
 . Maybe
 I should have ordered the 200 Hz 5-pole instead, but I got it 
 into my head that maybe the 8-pole filters were better in 
 some way.  I didn't repeat this mistake when I ordered 
 filters for the subreceiver.
 
 Dick, K6KR
 
 I know I will incur some religious wrath from some 
 however here is the OTHER side of that argument.  It's not 
 that I am denying the issues that are raised to question 
 getting the two 8 pole CW filters (400 and 300 in actuality).
 
 I am solving a SINGLE happenstance which occurs over, over, 
 over and over again in contests, so much so that until the K3 
 it was in my mind the LIMITING issue in improving 40m CW DX scores. 
 
 I am at a contest station in eastern NC just off Pamlico 
 Sound. On 40m to Europe we are using a 5 element wire quad 
 suspended across a 220 foot NE/SW catenary between two towers. 
 
 Broadcast signals above 7.1 routinely peg meters and light 
 all the lights. 
 So do some US stations in the NE, and so do some number of 
 VERY LOUD European stations (VLS).  WHAT they are doing to be 
 so loud is not part of my exposition. They just are very loud.
 
 At some point in the contest, one has worked all the VLS, 
 loud, medium and well-antenna'd QRP signals. What remains is 
 a bewildering and seemingly bottomless pool of stations that 
 can hear us (QRO on 5 elements) and are trying to work us on 
 antennas with the gain of a basement floor joist wet noodle 
 antenna. There are hundreds and hundreds of these. We have 
 some number of recordings made in Europe of these, and they 
 are quite weak over there. 
 
 It is guaranteed, only a matter of time, and sometimes 
 immediate, that a VLS will settle in the next slot above or 
 below. They may be as close as 350 Hz. The problem now is 
 working the QRP wet noodle station who is into the noise 
 without hardware AGC pumping or other effects from a VLS 
 INSIDE the roofing filter that was set to hear stations who 
 will call sometimes +/- 200-250 Hz.  
 
 I need the roofing filter is to get down 30 db as quickly as 
 possible, without giving up too much of the +/- 250 Hz. The 
 400 Hz is a good width even for VLS +/- 500 Hz.  If a VLS 
 squeezes me on one side, I only want to give up +/- real 
 estate in the roofing filter on that side. The procedure is 
 to drop to 300 hz roofing and DSP and move the RX center 50 
 hz away from TX frequency and the VLS. I give up listening so 
 far on the side of the VLS, but keep the real estate on the 
 other side.  
 
 It is a matter of the width out to the edge and the largest 
 db drop per 10 hz in the skirts thereafter. The roofing 
 filter keeps the VLS from getting into the 

Re: [Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Hi Lance,

The resistor and jumper blocks included with the headset are only for the K2.  

The K3 requires no mods to use the Proset-K2 (or the MH2.) Just turn on the 
miic bias in the K3 menu and you are good to go.

73,

Eric  WA6HHQ
_..._
-Original Message-
From: LANCE COLLISTER [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 7:32 am
Subject: [Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


Hello K3 gurus!

I received my factory built K3 this past week, and yesterday received my K2 
Heil 
Pro-set and some Anderson Powerpole connectors...  Last night I wired up a 
serial 
line splitter so I could connect my K3's serial port to the same serial cable 
that 
goes to my sequencer (that will switch any of my XMTRS into XMIT)and CIV level 
converter (for my IC746).  So it looks like I am getting close to being able to 
make 
some noise with it ;-)

Currently, I run my Heil #5 boom mic (along with the LINE OUTPUT from my 
computer) 
through a W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate (and then through interrupt 
relays) 
before they go to the Mic input of the IC746.  With the K2 Pro-set from 
Elecraft, I 
received a resistor and a bunch of jumper connectors with an instruction sheet 
on 
modifications I need to make to the K3 so it will be able to work with the K2 
Pro-set.

My question is this:  If I use the current microphone/audio in arrangement, do 
I 
still have to modify the K3 for the K2?  If I install all the jumpers and 
resistor 
into the K3, will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise 
Gate 
in front of the K3?  Will I harm anything by just trying different setups the 
way the 
K3 came from the factory?

MNI TNX for any guidance or suggestions you may be able to provide.  VY 73, 
Lance
-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Key Out

2008-08-31 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Solid state.
73,

Eric  WA6HHQ
_..._
-Original Message-
From: W6SX Hank Garretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 8:52 am
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Key Out
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


The K3's Key Out is rated for +200V at 5 Amps.

Inside the K3, is Key Out a relay or solid state?


73,

Hank, W6SX

Mammoth Lakes, California

Elevation 8083 feet in John Muir's Range of Light 


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Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread Bill W4ZV



DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 As for pumping the AGC, you can always turn the AGC off and ride the
 RF gain.  But it has been my experience that (a) either the loud guy
 who is close will move away (b) trying to fight such a situation (and
 trying to win) can cost you more points than it is worth.  And if the
 other guy is THAT CLOSE and you are both running, then there is always
 some doubt as to which one of you the weak DX is actually answering
 (again, bad for the score).
 

Doug's last sentence is a very astute observation from someone who is
clearly an experienced contester.  It's probably the major reason I try to
avoid extremely close spacings.  Sure we can use 200 Hz bandwidths to
eliminate QRM but we have no control over the guys who call off-frequency. 
I'm hoping the K3 with its CWT function becomes more popular and helps
reduce the range of off-frequency callers.  

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FTP Beta Files

2008-08-31 Thread W2XB

Hi Larry,
Had the same thing. Just right click on page and do a refresh and all should
work.

Don...w2xb




Larry P. Greenberg wrote:
 
 A few days ago, I was able to download and install MCU 2.32, the firmware
 beta version.  Yesterday, MCU 2.34 became available correcting some code
 of 2.32.  With this new version, when I either click on the FTP site in
 the download instructions or insert the URL into my browser, my browser
 just hangs.  The instructions state, NOTE: On some computers, it may take
 some time for a directory of the beta files to appear.  However,hanging
 for over thirty minutes before I got out of the browser seems too long and
 the directory of files comes right up on another computer I have.  Does
 anybody on the list know why my browser (Internet Explorer) seems to go
 off into never-never land when I try to get this file?  MCU 2.32
 downloaded just file.  Also, I even erased my Temp Internet Files, Recycle
 Bon, etc.  
 
 Larry, WA9MAG
 
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[Elecraft] Possible solution for Spot frustrations

2008-08-31 Thread David Wilburn

Just an idea of something that is working well for me, YMMV.

I have heard folks frustrated with the Spot volumes and such.  What I 
have started doing is keeping my setting a bit lower, so that I can 
switch between headphone and speaker without issue.  Then when I hit 
spot, I just back down the RF gain.  9 times out of 10, I hit a magic 
spot where I can hear the station, and the spot is louder.  I turn 
gain back up, can barely hear spot, and hit the spot button to get rid 
of it.

--

David Wilburn
K4DGW
www.k4dgw.com
www.k4rc.net
Williamsburg Area Amateur Radio Club (K4RC)

My Current LOTW/DXCC/WAS status
www.k4dgw.com/WAS.DXCC.info.html

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Re: [Elecraft] Katiegram for SN 1570

2008-08-31 Thread BigAlT

Have you enabled Mic Bias in the Config Menu ?.


Henrik Tuxen wrote:
 
 Hej all, here is the plot info for SN 1570
 Orderdate 28 APR 2008
 Katiegram 26 AUG 2008
 Arrival   in DK   29 AUG 2008 @ 10:30 Local time
 First power   29 AUG 2008 @ 21:30 Local time
 
 Absolutely no problems with the build apart from getting the screws with
 2 splitwashers to catch - that required a bit of force.
 
 k3util installed perfectly on Ubuntu (required curl to download) and
 communicates with the K3 using the K3USB interface (/dev/ttyUSB0).
 
 MCU version 2.24, FPF version 0.02, DSP version 1.88.
 
 I'm currently hunting the problem why I cannot get any modulation using
 the MH2 microphone, but something will show. When that work I will
 install the KPA3 module.

   Have you turned on the Mic Bias in the Config Menu ?
 
 Vy 73 de OZ6WU
 Henrik
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread LANCE COLLISTER

Jim Brown wrote:
 On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:32:58 +, LANCE COLLISTER wrote:
 
 will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate 
 in front of the K3? 
 
 Why would you want to?  Sell it on EBay!  The K3 includes an EXCELLENT 
 audio equalizer that does everything you need and is quite easy to 
 adjust. 
 
 73,
 
 Jim Brown K9YC
 
 
 
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TNX for the clarification from everyone about the K2 Pro-Set and the K3!  I 
hope to 
try it out this evening after my 6m moonbounce activities today.

In answer to Jim's question, the reason for the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise 
Gate 
is because I still can't get rid of my IC746, since the K3 does not work on 2m 
:-( 
Furthermore, just because I have a K3 doesn't mean I only operate QRPmy 
homebrew 
amplifiers here sound like a jet plane taking off, and the Noise Gate prevents 
that 
annoying loud background noise from being sent out over the air when I am on 
SSB.

Hm.come to think of it, that might be something for Elecraft to think 
about 
adding into a future firmware updateI'll bet they could easily incorporate 
it 
into the audio circuit controls just like they do for VOX ;-)

GL and VY 73, Lance

-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT  59834  USA
QTH: DN27UB
TEL: (406) 626-5728
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

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RE: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Joe  Don:


 I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
 SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
 RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!

Are you sure?  Most of those amplifiers had high voltage PTT
circuits.  If I recall correctly the TR relay is a 120V 3PDT
unit.  You may need a buffer or soft-key circuit in your
amplifier to make it safe with the K3.


The T-R output MOSFET in the K3 is rated at 200VDC at around 5A, so it
should not be much of a concern for switching. Additionally, the MOSFET
is diode-protected against reverse spikes from the relay it's keying.

HOWEVER... this having been said, were it me, I'd add an (internal)
Lo-voltage keying interface, like that offered by Harbach, to change
the T-R keying voltage presented by the SB-221 from 120VDC to around
2VDC and maybe a couple mA of current. Pretty economical and easy to
install, and worth the effort to install.

Any T-R keying interface regardless of what you use (OEM or 3rd party)
will not, as Joe has pointed out, change the keying speed of the open-
frame T-R relay. That is a separate problem which CAN be addressed
with replacing the OEM relay with a high-speed power reed relay (drive
input) and a vacuum relay (RF output). But you CAN significantly improve
the transition speed of the relays IF you NEED the feature.

73,

Tom   N0SS


73,

Tom  N0SS

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[Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Don Rasmussen
Tom - I have the soft key, but thought I didn't need
it after seeing the K3 specs. Why would you depart
from that measurement? ;-)

The T-R output MOSFET in the K3 is rated at 200VDC at
around 5A, so it
should not be much of a concern for switching.
Additionally, the MOSFET
is diode-protected against reverse spikes from the
relay it's keying.

HOWEVER... this having been said, were it me, I'd add
an (internal)
Lo-voltage keying interface, like that offered by
Harbach, to change
the T-R keying voltage presented by the SB-221 from
120VDC to around
2VDC and maybe a couple mA of current. Pretty
economical and easy to
install, and worth the effort to install.
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2 QRP

2008-08-31 Thread pkhjr

Looking for a good working K2 QRP with tuner other options considered.  Email
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tnx Paul ka5y
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[Elecraft] K3 SHIFT/WIDTH QUESTION

2008-08-31 Thread k4pi
Just finished SN/1542..  One probably operating question I have is about the 
SHFIT/WIDTH in CW.  In the II mode the controls work as advertised but in 
the I mode the roofing filter switches back to FL1 anytime I move 
SHIFT/WIDTH.  It reverts to FC *.050 for SHIFT and will not change with the 
Shift Knob and the Width will not go lower than 600.  I have tried setting 
them up following the instruction on page 34 with no sucess.  Any replies 
direct.  73 Mike 


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RE: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread Guy, K2AV



 I have used both of these filters for years in my FT1000MP 
 and am completely familiar with their shape and use in a 
 contest. 

The 250 Hz filters in an FT1000MP is an entirely different 
situation.  In the FT-1000D/FT-1000MP, there are two filters 
- each approximately 350 Hz wide - in cascade yielding a 
composite 250 Hz (at -6dB) bandwidth.

In my MP, having INRAD pairs at 400 and 250, one often used tactic was
leaving the 455 IF at 400 (500 on the panel) and switching in the 250 in
the 2nd If, to deal with a VLS squeezing in from above or below. Though it
was certainly useful, the other cr*p being generated by the IF in the MP
prevented making best use of the filters.  I don't expect anything else
roofing wise from them in the K3. The mere 100 Hz difference in the two is
enough to deal with a squeezing-in VLS 

I already had compared the K3 website curves with my measured MP curves on
the two filters with the 455 IF set wide, so I knew exactly what I was
getting. In the WAE, this setup performed spendidly as expected. I had dsp
width set to get the wider CW filter at 500 Hz dsp, narrower CW filter at
300 dsp. 

That's why *I* bought the two, with my eyes wide open, I make no claims to
have the fully portable mantra for everyone to follow, just a view from
another perspective.

73, and even if your mileage may vary may it still take you where you want
to be.

Guy, K2AV
-- 
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it OK to USE Heil/Elecraft MD-2 Mic w/ K3?

2008-08-31 Thread Paul

paul hendershott wrote:

Anyone having a problem using the Heil MD-2 Desk Mic w/ the K3?


I use an Elecraft / Heil MD-2 with my K3 with no problems.

I didn't set anything mic-related in the config menus (left on 
factory mic defaults).


I did adjust mic gain and compression on the front panel. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Katiegram for SN 1570

2008-08-31 Thread Henrik Tuxen
Did it and now it works. Thanks for the suggestion and also thanks to
the ones that gave the suggestion directly.

This is one of the things that make the K2 and the K3 such great
products, the willingness to share information. We are almost talking
open source hardware when we are talking Elecraft.

And now on to the installation of the KPA3.

OZ6WU Henrik

-Original Message-
From: BigAlT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Katiegram for SN 1570
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 10:17:53 -0700 (PDT)

Have you enabled Mic Bias in the Config Menu ?.


Henrik Tuxen wrote:
 
 Hej all, here is the plot info for SN 1570
 Orderdate 28 APR 2008
 Katiegram 26 AUG 2008
 Arrival   in DK   29 AUG 2008 @ 10:30 Local time
 First power   29 AUG 2008 @ 21:30 Local time
 
 Absolutely no problems with the build apart from getting the screws with
 2 splitwashers to catch - that required a bit of force.
 
 k3util installed perfectly on Ubuntu (required curl to download) and
 communicates with the K3 using the K3USB interface (/dev/ttyUSB0).
 
 MCU version 2.24, FPF version 0.02, DSP version 1.88.
 
 I'm currently hunting the problem why I cannot get any modulation using
 the MH2 microphone, but something will show. When that work I will
 install the KPA3 module.

   Have you turned on the Mic Bias in the Config Menu ?
 
 Vy 73 de OZ6WU
 Henrik
 
 
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Re: Re: [Elecraft] Hearing the effect of narrower roofing filter

2008-08-31 Thread K7TV

When the hardware AGC responds under these conditions, I am guessing that the
effect might be an increase in the general background noise heard. This is
really what I was after. 






After looking at the clock last night and finishing off my post too quickly,
I got poster's remorse about the last sentence. Of course, if the hardware
agc works perfectly, I would expect the general effect to be a decrease in
noise. Behind my sentence were two muddled thoughts: 1. If the agc hang or
decay is very short, the random peaks in composite signal might cause very
rapid sequences of normal/desensed noise, and this staccato effect might be
perceived as an addition in noise although not increasing noise amplitude,
and 2. This being a new radio design, it would not be inconceivable if some
aspect of the agc design were flawed, resulting in actual increases in noise
amplitude when the hardware agc kicks in repeatedly at a high rate.

I received one response, off-list, that was aimed at this part of my post.
The gentleman provided a great deal of insight into what might go wrong with
the agc action and the second mixer. Those details went far beyond my
thoughts. Unfortunately he did not actually have a K3, so there was no test
data.

I guess I had better be patient and wait until my K3 arrives! It should be
easy to study the hardware agc action by using an external preamp to bring
up the average signal level on a crowded band. I might hang one scope
channel on the 8 MHz signal after the filter, and another channel on the
hardware agc voltage, while listening to the radio. Of course, since noone
on the list is obsessing about this aspect of K3 behavior, it will probably
turn out to be unimportant to the overall performance of the radio.




-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Hearing-the-effect-of-narrower-roofing-filter-tp470635p795880.html
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[Elecraft] Re: Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread Bob Evans
KEEP THE W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate!  DO NOT SELL IT ON
EBAY!!!

 

I'm sure Elecraft will have a Noise Gate built into a K3's firmware some
day, but a noise gate is a valuable tool to knock down in-shack background
noise (like amps, fans, other ops, etc.).  The Audio Equalizer built into
the W2IHY unit is less important now that the K3 has one, but it still gives
you added flexibility in adjusting levels beyond what the K3's built in
equalizer gives you.  I use my W2IHY Noise Gate and Equalizer with my K3 and
it certainly makes a cleaner signal than one without a noise gate.  If your
shack is perfectly quite, you never turn on the COMP or you never breathe
while in a QSO, you don't need a noise gate and eBay is a good place for it.


 

My two cents from Texas,

Bob K5WA 

 

 

will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate 

in front of the K3? 

 

Why would you want to?  Sell it on EBay!  The K3 includes an EXCELLENT 

audio equalizer that does everything you need and is quite easy to 

adjust. 

 

73,

 

Jim Brown K9YC

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone connections for K3 #1540

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lance,

Those jumpers and the resistor that you received with your Elecraft 
ProSet K2 are to be used with the *K2*, not with the K3!  No 
modificaions are needed for your K3 - just the proper menu settings.


For the K3, take your pick of plugging the mic and headphone plugs into 
the rear panel connectors or use the 8 pin adapter and plug into the K3 
front panel.
Whichever you use (front panel or rear panel) enter the K3 menu and set 
the MIC SEL to either FP or RP, set the level to Low, and set the bias 
ON.  Adjust the mic gain to somewhere between 35 and 40 and give it a 
try - you may have to adjust the mic gain a bit, but it should work just 
fine.


I don't know how the equalizers and other equipment interface - that is 
something for you to take up with the manufacturer of each piece of 
equipment - if they support the K3 and the Elecraft ProSet K2.


Notice that referring to that mic and headset as a *Heil* will lead to 
confusion.  The ProSet K2 has an electret element and needs a bias 
supply, the Heil ProSet (not the K2) uses a dynamic element and should 
not have bias applied (it sounds 'funny' if bias is turned on).  The 
similarity of the names coupled with the fact that the Elecraft ProSet 
K2 also has the Heil name on it usually leads to much confusion when 
questions are asked about a ProSet without clarifying which one it is.


73,
Don W3FPR

LANCE COLLISTER wrote:

Hello K3 gurus!

I received my factory built K3 this past week, and yesterday received my K2 Heil 
Pro-set and some Anderson Powerpole connectors...  Last night I wired up a serial 
line splitter so I could connect my K3's serial port to the same serial cable that 
goes to my sequencer (that will switch any of my XMTRS into XMIT)and CIV level 
converter (for my IC746).  So it looks like I am getting close to being able to make 
some noise with it ;-)


Currently, I run my Heil #5 boom mic (along with the LINE OUTPUT from my computer) 
through a W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate (and then through interrupt relays) 
before they go to the Mic input of the IC746.  With the K2 Pro-set from Elecraft, I 
received a resistor and a bunch of jumper connectors with an instruction sheet on 
modifications I need to make to the K3 so it will be able to work with the K2 Pro-set.


My question is this:  If I use the current microphone/audio in arrangement, do I 
still have to modify the K3 for the K2?  If I install all the jumpers and resistor 
into the K3, will I be prevented from using the W2IHY Audio Equalizer and Noise Gate 
in front of the K3?  Will I harm anything by just trying different setups the way the 
K3 came from the factory?


MNI TNX for any guidance or suggestions you may be able to provide.  VY 73, 
Lance
  




No virus found in this incoming message.
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[Elecraft] Antenna sharing question

2008-08-31 Thread Mike Scott
I have 6m on the K3, 2m on my XV144 and 4m to come.  I use only 1 
antenna with these, a Create log periodic.  Is there a simple way to 
connect all three to the aerial without using a switch?

Ian,

The standard (no-switch) approach to connect a single broadband antenna to
three separate transceiver ports that operate on different bands is to use a
triplexer. A triplexer is something like three separate band-pass filters
that take energy in separate bands and routes the energy to three separate
physical ports.

You can find triplexer products if you Google the term. Your issue is quite
unique however with the 4m band. There may be a European triplexer source
but since this band isn't available here the US manufacturers are unlikely
to have a suitable product. 

You might be able to build your own triplexer but you may really be better
off with relays automatically driven from a combination of K3 band decode
and the 4M rig PTT circuit. I am assuming the K3 drives 6M and the XV144 on
2M and the 4M rig is separate transceiver. You might find a commercial
diplexer that handles the 2M and 6M bands leaving you with a hardware switch
or relay for 4M operation.

Triplexers need to be built with substantial port-to-port isolation, this
might prove difficult in a homebrewed unit, don't know for sure as I have
never built one. If you live in an area with risk of lightning strikes then
you have something else to add to the homebrew worries.

eHam reviews a long list of antenna switches at:
http://www.eham.net/reviews/products/2

Good luck.

Mike Scott
AE6WA Tarzana, CA
K3/100 SN508


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RE: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Mel Farrer
Hi all,  

I am from the old school of thinking that sometime I am going to need to key an 
AC relay in an amplifier and prefer to make a VERY simple interface and 
generate a set of dry contacts.  That way regardless of the keying gender, you 
are safe.  It keeps ground current loops out of the picture too.

Mel K6KBE

--- On Sun, 8/31/08, Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] SB-221 for K3 need some help.
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Don Rasmussen' [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 10:10 AM

Hi Joe  Don:

  I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
  SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
  RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!

Are you sure?  Most of those amplifiers had high voltage PTT
circuits.  If I recall correctly the TR relay is a 120V 3PDT
unit.  You may need a buffer or soft-key circuit in your
amplifier to make it safe with the K3.

The T-R output MOSFET in the K3 is rated at 200VDC at around 5A, so it
should not be much of a concern for switching. Additionally, the MOSFET
is diode-protected against reverse spikes from the relay it's keying.

HOWEVER... this having been said, were it me, I'd add an (internal)
Lo-voltage keying interface, like that offered by Harbach, to change
the T-R keying voltage presented by the SB-221 from 120VDC to around
2VDC and maybe a couple mA of current. Pretty economical and easy to
install, and worth the effort to install.

Any T-R keying interface regardless of what you use (OEM or 3rd party)
will not, as Joe has pointed out, change the keying speed of the open-
frame T-R relay. That is a separate problem which CAN be addressed
with replacing the OEM relay with a high-speed power reed relay (drive
input) and a vacuum relay (RF output). But you CAN significantly improve
the transition speed of the relays IF you NEED the feature.

73,

Tom   N0SS


73,

Tom  N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Bill W5WVO
As far as the bandswitch is concerned, a good source for them are
the guys who do the 6-meter conversions for SB-220s and SB221s,
since they remove the whole bandswitch assembly. Check with Lou at
King Conversions ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). He may be able to help you
out. Lou does a great job with his 6-meter conversions, BTW. I'm
using one with my K3, but part of his conversion is installing a
solid-state buffer for the T-R line, which in the unmodified
SB-220 switches 120VDC. Do NOT connect an unmodified SB-220's T-R
switch line directly to the K3's T-R switch output jack. Your K3
will NOT be happy.

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 11:50 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.


 Don, there isn't a diode across the relay coil in an SB220 - so
there
 may be a nasty back emf voltage on key release. Also, the K3
maximum
 keying delay is 20 mS, will the relay in a SB220 switch in that
time?

 I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but old linears were
designed
 for relay contact switching and generally were slow on change
over...
 They can be modified, but in standard format may not work too
well.

 73 Dave, G4AON
 K3/100 #80, Acom 1000
 

 I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
 SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
 RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!
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Re: [Elecraft] CORRECTION Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Bill W5WVO
Oops, correction. Looks like the K3 will handle the SB-220's T-R
relay coil voltage after all. Sorry about that, my bad. You still
need to worry about the closure timing, though. I have my K3 set
to the max (20 ms) and there doesn't SEEM to be a probelm -- but
I've never actually measured how longs it takes the original Heath
frame relay to close. You really should do that.

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: Bill W5WVO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.


 As far as the bandswitch is concerned, a good source for them
are
 the guys who do the 6-meter conversions for SB-220s and SB221s,
 since they remove the whole bandswitch assembly. Check with Lou
at
 King Conversions ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). He may be able to help you
 out. Lou does a great job with his 6-meter conversions, BTW. I'm
 using one with my K3, but part of his conversion is installing a
 solid-state buffer for the T-R line, which in the unmodified
 SB-220 switches 120VDC. Do NOT connect an unmodified SB-220's
T-R
 switch line directly to the K3's T-R switch output jack. Your K3
 will NOT be happy.

 Bill W5WVO


 - Original Message - 
 From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 11:50 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.


  Don, there isn't a diode across the relay coil in an SB220 -
so
 there
  may be a nasty back emf voltage on key release. Also, the K3
 maximum
  keying delay is 20 mS, will the relay in a SB220 switch in
that
 time?
 
  I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but old linears were
 designed
  for relay contact switching and generally were slow on change
 over...
  They can be modified, but in standard format may not work too
 well.
 
  73 Dave, G4AON
  K3/100 #80, Acom 1000
  
 
  I found out this week that K3 is good with Heathkit
  SB-220 amps, all you need to do is connect a shielded
  RCA cable between the units - how easy is that? !!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna sharing question

2008-08-31 Thread Ian Maude

Mike Scott wrote:
I have 6m on the K3, 2m on my XV144 and 4m to come.  I use only 1 

antenna with these, a Create log periodic.  Is there a simple way to 
connect all three to the aerial without using a switch?


Ian,

The standard (no-switch) approach to connect a single broadband antenna to
three separate transceiver ports that operate on different bands is to use a
triplexer. A triplexer is something like three separate band-pass filters
that take energy in separate bands and routes the energy to three separate
physical ports.
  

Thanks Mike,
I had wondered about the triplexer route but as you say, 4m is a 
problem.  I would need to do a lot of research to build my own I think 
and even then it may not be satisfactory.  I will go with a switch for 
now but possibly RF relays are the way to go.

Many thanks to you and everyone for the reponses.

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455 


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[Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Jack Regan
Last week I asked K3 Support if single lever paddle support was on the to
to do list.  Gary Surrency responded that it was not but would be
considered.

within days the answer came back that it would not be supported due to the
small number of users affected. 

 

At first I was a little annoyed but now I am all right with that decision
because I have found that I can in fact use my Kent paddle with a slap and
dash technique with the K3 internal keyer just the way it is.

 

1.   I changed my weighting to 1.25 and selected MODE A.

2.   I used the TEXT DECODE function to get feedback.

3.   I made sure I was consistently as fast as possible with my keying
of elements within a character when switching from dot(s) to dash(es).

 

This technique cured my problem of things like CQ being seen NNMET

Using the TEXT DECODE function also helped with getting rid of unwanted
Farnsworth spacing between characters.  The better I get at hearing CW the
more annoying it becomes.  It also makes sending a more natural rhythm.

 

BTW, before I worked this method out I hooked up my microHam CW Keyer and
used it and it worked FB with no effort on my part but I resented having an
extra box and extra cables on my desk!  In an attempt to clean up my station
I went back to using the K3 keyer and worked things out!  Not only did I get
rid of the external keyer and cables but now the Kent single lever paddle is
plugged into the paddle jack and so TEXT DECODE as well as TERMINAL mode in
the K3 Utility both work on send and receive.

 

Jack AE6GC, K3 1433, KX1 1403

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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Why do you need special interface for a single lever paddle?  It works the same 
as an Iambic paddle except that you can't close both contacts at once.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Sun, 8/31/08, Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 3:10 PM
 Last week I asked K3 Support if single lever paddle support
 was on the to
 to do list.  Gary Surrency responded that it
 was not but would be
 considered.
 
 within days the answer came back that it would not be
 supported due to the
 small number of users affected. 
 
  
 
 At first I was a little annoyed but now I am all right with
 that decision
 because I have found that I can in fact use my Kent paddle
 with a slap and
 dash technique with the K3 internal keyer just the way it
 is.
 
  
 
 1.   I changed my weighting to 1.25 and selected MODE
 A.
 
 2.   I used the TEXT DECODE function to get feedback.
 
 3.   I made sure I was consistently as fast as possible
 with my keying
 of elements within a character when switching from dot(s)
 to dash(es).
 
  
 
 This technique cured my problem of things like
 CQ being seen NNMET
 
 Using the TEXT DECODE function also helped with getting rid
 of unwanted
 Farnsworth spacing between characters.  The better I get at
 hearing CW the
 more annoying it becomes.  It also makes sending a more
 natural rhythm.
 
  
 
 BTW, before I worked this method out I hooked up my
 microHam CW Keyer and
 used it and it worked FB with no effort on my part but I
 resented having an
 extra box and extra cables on my desk!  In an attempt to
 clean up my station
 I went back to using the K3 keyer and worked things out! 
 Not only did I get
 rid of the external keyer and cables but now the Kent
 single lever paddle is
 plugged into the paddle jack and so TEXT DECODE as well as
 TERMINAL mode in
 the K3 Utility both work on send and receive.
 
  
 
 Jack AE6GC, K3 1433, KX1 1403
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread n4lq
It's not the single vs. dual lever issue that bothers these guys. It's the 
iambic mode, a or b. Mode B has been the standard since the early 70's. 
TenTec came out with their KR-40 which is mode b and ever since then mode A 
has been a step child. All JA rigs use mode B now.
Basically, mode B has enough brains to know if you held in a lever long 
enough to produce the last element without actually starting to send it. 
People who learned on mode B, trying to send the letter C on a mode A 
machine will end up sending the letter K. The last dit is dropped because it 
wants you to hold in the dit button until that dit has started to form. Mode 
A people who try to send C end up sending KA _._._ because they hold the dit 
lever in too long. Both modes are iambic since holding in both levers 
results in alternate dits and dahs. It's just a matter of when to let go!
A single lever paddle works equally well with either mode. In fact when you 
consider the entire alphabet, less finger movement is required with the 
single lever paddle. This came as a shock to me. Check the letter C. On a 
single lever we swing left, right, left, right. That's 4 movements. With 
duals, we (push left and hold), (push right and hold), (release left), 
(release right) for letter C. So we have the same number of movements with 
either paddle. Now let's do A. With single lever we swing left, swing right, 
release. 3 moves. With duals, we push left and hold, push right, release 
left, release right. 4 moves! It all happens so fast that you don't realize 
you are doing it.
The Kent single lever paddle is a precision device. I prefer a wider finger 
piece over the thin paddle Kent uses however.
The K3 works well with either single or duals. It doesn't know the 
difference.

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles


Why do you need special interface for a single lever paddle?  It works the 
same as an Iambic paddle except that you can't close both contacts at 
once.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ


--- On Sun, 8/31/08, Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 3:10 PM
Last week I asked K3 Support if single lever paddle support
was on the to
to do list.  Gary Surrency responded that it
was not but would be
considered.

within days the answer came back that it would not be
supported due to the
small number of users affected.



At first I was a little annoyed but now I am all right with
that decision
because I have found that I can in fact use my Kent paddle
with a slap and
dash technique with the K3 internal keyer just the way it
is.



1.   I changed my weighting to 1.25 and selected MODE
A.

2.   I used the TEXT DECODE function to get feedback.

3.   I made sure I was consistently as fast as possible
with my keying
of elements within a character when switching from dot(s)
to dash(es).



This technique cured my problem of things like
CQ being seen NNMET

Using the TEXT DECODE function also helped with getting rid
of unwanted
Farnsworth spacing between characters.  The better I get at
hearing CW the
more annoying it becomes.  It also makes sending a more
natural rhythm.



BTW, before I worked this method out I hooked up my
microHam CW Keyer and
used it and it worked FB with no effort on my part but I
resented having an
extra box and extra cables on my desk!  In an attempt to
clean up my station
I went back to using the K3 keyer and worked things out!
Not only did I get
rid of the external keyer and cables but now the Kent
single lever paddle is
plugged into the paddle jack and so TEXT DECODE as well as
TERMINAL mode in
the K3 Utility both work on send and receive.



Jack AE6GC, K3 1433, KX1 1403

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1644 - Release Date: 8/31/2008 
4:59 PM


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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Bill W4ZV



n4lq wrote:
 
 A single lever paddle works equally well with either mode. In fact when
 you 
 consider the entire alphabet, less finger movement is required with the 
 single lever paddle. This came as a shock to me. 
 

Which is why nearly all competitors in the High Speed Telegraphy (HST)
competition use single levers for the sending tests.

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Kent-Single-Lever-Paddles-tp796074p796171.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Wow, if I had to do all that extra junk I'd get rid of my dual paddle 
Kent, Brown Bros., and K8RA keys and go back to that cruddy Heath single 
paddle integrated unit I used to have.


Steve, I think you make the common assumption that having a dual paddle 
*requires* the operator to use the squeeze method.  It really 
doesn't.  It just *allows* you to go from dit to dah and vice versa more 
efficiently.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


n4lq wrote:
With duals, we push left and hold, push right, release left, release 
right. 4 moves! I

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] XV432 Frequency and Power Stability

2008-08-31 Thread Johnny Siu



 Hi Stu,
 
 I am anxious to know the answer too.  Please keep the group
 informed about how you solve your problem. This could be the
 reason why I have been hesitating to order my XV432 for
 years.
 
 73
 
 Johnny Siu VR2XMC
 
 
 --- 2008年8月31日 星期日,Stu2 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 寫道﹕
 
  寄件人: Stu2 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  主題: [Elecraft] XV432 Frequency and Power Stability
  收件人: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  日期: 2008 8 31 星期日 上午 3:54
  Hi All,
  
  I finished assembling a XV432 transverter and seem to
 have
  a little 
  problem with both power and frequency stability. After
  going through the 
  alignment steps, the power starts dropping from 20W
 down to
  about 10 
  after sending CW into a dummy load for 20 seconds or
 so.
  During this 
  time, the frequency drifts about 100 Hz. (Enough to
 detect
  a pitch 
  change in another receiver.)
  
  I installed Q1 using the Teflon spacer. I have the
 crystal
  oven 
  installed and the transverter was powered on for about
 30
  minutes or so 
  before I aligned it. (JP9 is on 4-5.) The part values
  appear to be 
  correct. The problem appears if I use a 5W source or a
 1
  milliwatt 
  source. (Changing JP3,4,5,6 accordingly.) My radio is
 a
  SDR-5000A.
  
  The power module doesn't get warm.
  
  I do NOT have the extra 5 turn coil and the 10pf
 capacitor
  installed on 
  the power module. (Rev C1 errata.)
  
  Has anybody else had this problem and if so, how did
 you
  fix it.
  
  Thanks!
  
  Stu
  W7IY
 
 
 
   為了不斷提升Yahoo!
 Mail,雅虎香港誠邀你參與意見調查。請前往http://surveylink.yahoo.com/wix/p5429076.aspx
 發表你的意見!


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Mail,雅虎香港誠邀你參與意見調查。請前往http://surveylink.yahoo.com/wix/p5429076.aspx 發表你的意見!
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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

You want Ultimatic mode.  It makes a dual lever paddle operate almost 
like a single lever. To quote from the K1EL K12 keyer manual, In 
Ultimatic mode when both paddles are pressed the keyer will send a 
continuous stream of whichever paddle was last pressed.  That makes the 
hand motions identical to using a single lever paddle.


The small K1EL keyers that support Ultimatic keying are a must for me 
because it is not built-in to any transceiver internal keyer as far as I 
know.


73,
Don W3FPR

n4lq wrote:
It's not the single vs. dual lever issue that bothers these guys. It's 
the iambic mode, a or b. Mode B has been the standard since the early 
70's. TenTec came out with their KR-40 which is mode b and ever since 
then mode A has been a step child. All JA rigs use mode B now.
Basically, mode B has enough brains to know if you held in a lever 
long enough to produce the last element without actually starting to 
send it. People who learned on mode B, trying to send the letter C on 
a mode A machine will end up sending the letter K. The last dit is 
dropped because it wants you to hold in the dit button until that dit 
has started to form. Mode A people who try to send C end up sending KA 
_._._ because they hold the dit lever in too long. Both modes are 
iambic since holding in both levers results in alternate dits and 
dahs. It's just a matter of when to let go!
A single lever paddle works equally well with either mode. In fact 
when you consider the entire alphabet, less finger movement is 
required with the single lever paddle. This came as a shock to me. 
Check the letter C. On a single lever we swing left, right, left, 
right. That's 4 movements. With duals, we (push left and hold), (push 
right and hold), (release left), (release right) for letter C. So we 
have the same number of movements with either paddle. Now let's do A. 
With single lever we swing left, swing right, release. 3 moves. With 
duals, we push left and hold, push right, release left, release right. 
4 moves! It all happens so fast that you don't realize you are doing it.
The Kent single lever paddle is a precision device. I prefer a wider 
finger piece over the thin paddle Kent uses however.
The K3 works well with either single or duals. It doesn't know the 
difference.

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - From: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles


Why do you need special interface for a single lever paddle?  It 
works the same as an Iambic paddle except that you can't close both 
contacts at once.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ


--- On Sun, 8/31/08, Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 3:10 PM
Last week I asked K3 Support if single lever paddle support
was on the to
to do list.  Gary Surrency responded that it
was not but would be
considered.

within days the answer came back that it would not be
supported due to the
small number of users affected.



At first I was a little annoyed but now I am all right with
that decision
because I have found that I can in fact use my Kent paddle
with a slap and
dash technique with the K3 internal keyer just the way it
is.



1.   I changed my weighting to 1.25 and selected MODE
A.

2.   I used the TEXT DECODE function to get feedback.

3.   I made sure I was consistently as fast as possible
with my keying
of elements within a character when switching from dot(s)
to dash(es).



This technique cured my problem of things like
CQ being seen NNMET

Using the TEXT DECODE function also helped with getting rid
of unwanted
Farnsworth spacing between characters.  The better I get at
hearing CW the
more annoying it becomes.  It also makes sending a more
natural rhythm.



BTW, before I worked this method out I hooked up my
microHam CW Keyer and
used it and it worked FB with no effort on my part but I
resented having an
extra box and extra cables on my desk!  In an attempt to
clean up my station
I went back to using the K3 keyer and worked things out!
Not only did I get
rid of the external keyer and cables but now the Kent
single lever paddle is
plugged into the paddle jack and so TEXT DECODE as well as
TERMINAL mode in
the K3 Utility both work on send and receive.



Jack AE6GC, K3 1433, KX1 1403

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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Nick,

I don't know about any of the others who have trouble with dual lever 
paddles except myself, but I developed a habit a long time ago that I 
just can't shake - with dual levers I end up squeezing when I should 
not, so I get dot insertions in a string of dashes.
The habit comes from using a bug - Both the thumb and finger are in 
contact with the paddles until the character is ended - it works fine 
with a single lever or an Ultimatic mode keyer, but just will not send 
correct code from dual paddles with any Iambic keyer - mode A or mode B, 
but mode B is worse.  Despite endless periods of practice I have not 
been able to change.  My taste for CW has diminished a lot because of 
the non-availability of Ultimatic mode on internal keyers.


73,
Don W3FPR


Nick-WA5BDU wrote:
Wow, if I had to do all that extra junk I'd get rid of my dual paddle 
Kent, Brown Bros., and K8RA keys and go back to that cruddy Heath 
single paddle integrated unit I used to have.


Steve, I think you make the common assumption that having a dual 
paddle *requires* the operator to use the squeeze method.  It really 
doesn't.  It just *allows* you to go from dit to dah and vice versa 
more efficiently.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


n4lq wrote:
With duals, we push left and hold, push right, release left, release 
right. 4 moves! I

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1643 - Release Date: 8/30/2008 5:18 PM


  

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[Elecraft] K3 S-meter Mode

2008-08-31 Thread Paul Kirley
When I tried setting K3 CONFIG:SMTR MD to ABS, I found that the S-meter reading 
then stayed constant regardless of the setting of the preamp/attenuator, in 
agreement with the Owner's Manual addendum.

However, the reading for a 50-microvolt input signal (with the preamp on and 
attenuator off) falls from S-9 to S-6 as CONFIG:SMTR MD is changed from NOR to 
ABS.

Shouldn't a 50-microvolt input signal produce an S-9 reading regardless of the 
setting of CONFIG:SMTR MD?  

Alternatively, the Owner's Manual S-Meter calibration procedure would need to 
mention the setting of CONFIG:SMTR MD.

73, Paul W8TM

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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Ken N9VV

I have always loved the A/B and Iambic vs XXX dicussions :-)
Here are some great articles by Chuck K7QO/K5FO (and others) that you 
might enjoy.

http://www.n9vv.com/K7QO-A-B-Iambic-Keying.pdf
http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2008/05/20/10107/
http://www.morsecode.nl/iambic.PDF
http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf
http://www.ka0iqt.net/keys.htm
http://www.kl7kc.com/FistsCodeCourse/manual.pdf
http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/ultimat.txt

Thank you Chuck for all the enjoyment you have given us over so many 
years of dits and dahs :-)


gratefully,
de Ken N9VV


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Nick,

I don't know about any of the others who have trouble with dual lever 
paddles except myself, but I developed a habit a long time ago that I 
just can't shake - with dual levers I end up squeezing when I should 
not, so I get dot insertions in a string of dashes.
The habit comes from using a bug - Both the thumb and finger are in 
contact with the paddles until the character is ended - it works fine 
with a single lever or an Ultimatic mode keyer, but just will not send 
correct code from dual paddles with any Iambic keyer - mode A or mode B, 
but mode B is worse.  Despite endless periods of practice I have not 
been able to change.  My taste for CW has diminished a lot because of 
the non-availability of Ultimatic mode on internal keyers.


73,
Don W3FPR


Nick-WA5BDU wrote:
Wow, if I had to do all that extra junk I'd get rid of my dual paddle 
Kent, Brown Bros., and K8RA keys and go back to that cruddy Heath 
single paddle integrated unit I used to have.


Steve, I think you make the common assumption that having a dual 
paddle *requires* the operator to use the squeeze method.  It really 
doesn't.  It just *allows* you to go from dit to dah and vice versa 
more efficiently.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


n4lq wrote:
With duals, we push left and hold, push right, release left, release 
right. 4 moves! I

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 
270.6.14/1643 - Release Date: 8/30/2008 5:18 PM


  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S-meter Mode

2008-08-31 Thread Lyle Johnson

Paul Kirley wrote:

When I tried setting K3 CONFIG:SMTR MD to ABS, I found that the S-meter reading 
then stayed constant regardless of the setting of the preamp/attenuator, in 
agreement with the Owner's Manual addendum.

However, the reading for a 50-microvolt input signal (with the preamp on and 
attenuator off) falls from S-9 to S-6 as CONFIG:SMTR MD is changed from NOR to 
ABS.

Shouldn't a 50-microvolt input signal produce an S-9 reading regardless of the setting of CONFIG:SMTR MD?  


No, that is what the ABS mode is available.  You are seeing the correct 
response.


In NOR the S Meter is affected by PRE and ATTN.

The default calibration assumes: NOR, PRE ON and ATTN OFF.  The drop you 
are seeing when you go to ABS is because the PRE gain is no longer 
allowed to affect the S Meter reading.


73,

Lyle KK7P


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[Elecraft] K3 temperature rise

2008-08-31 Thread Robert Mccormack
Hi Stewart,
Something wrong there - we have two K3s that run 48+ hours in serious CW 
contesting - minimal temperature rise for both rigs.
73, Ken ZL1AIH (ZM1A in contests)
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RE: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
You just answered my question of long ago, Don, when I asked why it was so
hard for some to use a single lever key. 

In half a century of bug operation, I *never* touch both paddles of the bug
as the same time! 

There is a space between the side of my forefinger that contacts the paddles
to make a dash and thumb which makes dots and I roll my hand from side to
side to operate the paddles. 

My fingers never move. My whole hand does, rolling to bring either my thumb
or forefinger in contact with the bug paddles. 

I adjust the space between dits and dahs by changing the distance between my
thumb and the side of my forefinger. The farther apart, the greater the time
spacing between dits and dahs to match the dit speed I have set with the
pendulum weight. 

When I learned Iambic keying I had to *break* that habit so I could squeeze.
And I found Iambic keying very natural, smooth and efficient.

When I went back to a bug I had to relearn the roll the hand technique. 

Personally, I doubt if I ever could send text at 15 or 20 WPM for half an
hour by moving my fingers, which I had to do a *lot* when sending traffic.

I wonder how many CW operators who worked commercial circuits (I was Army)
use their fingers instead of rolling their fists. I can understand Hams
learning to do that. After all, we don't usually send nonstop for more than
a few minutes. Indeed, if I was in a long-winded rag chew I'd notice myself
getting stiff using an Iambic key, even though the paddle pressure was very
light and the contact spacing very small. But I can still sit down and send
a whole page from the phone book, names, addresses and phone numbers of
perhaps 150 people on the bug rolling my fist as if it were nothing. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Nick,

I don't know about any of the others who have trouble with dual lever 
paddles except myself, but I developed a habit a long time ago that I 
just can't shake - with dual levers I end up squeezing when I should 
not, so I get dot insertions in a string of dashes.
The habit comes from using a bug - Both the thumb and finger are in 
contact with the paddles until the character is ended - it works fine 
with a single lever or an Ultimatic mode keyer, but just will not send 
correct code from dual paddles with any Iambic keyer - mode A or mode B, 
but mode B is worse.  Despite endless periods of practice I have not 
been able to change.  My taste for CW has diminished a lot because of 
the non-availability of Ultimatic mode on internal keyers.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S-meter Mode

2008-08-31 Thread Bill W5WVO
Lyle,

I can see the logic in what you say. But if you are using a
particular receiver configuration as your baseline of 50 uv = S9,
I would think that baseline should be the same in ABS mode -- IOW,
50 uv = S9 with preamp on or off, atten on or off. Now, if you
wanted to set the baseline in NOR mode with preamp OFF (which I
really think makes more sense, certainly at the suggested 7 MHz),
then having the S-meter read S9 in ABS mode regardless of
pre/atten settings makes maybe even more sense.

But should that all change at, say, 50 MHz?? You can't hear a
thing on 50 MHz with the preamp off. What about 28 MHz?

The truth is, all this stuff is so very relative to so many
different variables, it's kinda like arguing about how many angels
can dance on the head of a pin. So I'm not really expressing a
strong feeling about a preference here, because at the end of the
day, it doesn't matter much. :-)  And the user can set this stuff
up in the Config menu the way he or she wants to, in any case.

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Paul Kirley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 S-meter Mode


 Paul Kirley wrote:
  When I tried setting K3 CONFIG:SMTR MD to ABS, I found that
the S-meter reading then stayed constant regardless of the setting
of the preamp/attenuator, in agreement with the Owner's Manual
addendum.
 
  However, the reading for a 50-microvolt input signal (with the
preamp on and attenuator off) falls from S-9 to S-6 as CONFIG:SMTR
MD is changed from NOR to ABS.
 
  Shouldn't a 50-microvolt input signal produce an S-9 reading
regardless of the setting of CONFIG:SMTR MD?

 No, that is what the ABS mode is available.  You are seeing the
correct
 response.

 In NOR the S Meter is affected by PRE and ATTN.

 The default calibration assumes: NOR, PRE ON and ATTN OFF.  The
drop you
 are seeing when you go to ABS is because the PRE gain is no
longer
 allowed to affect the S Meter reading.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P


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[Elecraft] Issues after loading 2.34--Gremlins--Need Help!

2008-08-31 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2.34/1.89 firmware loading issue to report.

My K3 #371 has been functioning perfectly until this evening. It has the 
sub-receiver installed which has been working fine as well.


Tonight I decided to load 2.34 Beta and did so successfully but 
after a second attempt.


My first attempt resulted in no DSP being loaded in  DSP1 but it did 
load into DSP 2. I got the following error message 'E000202' on the Main 
display and 'ERR DSE' on the VFO B display.


After my successful second attempt load I then got 'ERR PL 1' on the VFO 
B display when changing bands. It disappeared after a second or two but 
reappeaed on each band change. Lots of background noise but no signals.


I attempted to recalibrate PL1. After the recal. it now displays ERR VCO 
E 5 and then Er VC4   E00255.


I reverted back to 2.23 and now get 'ERR PL 2'. So I again re calibrated 
the VCO's main and sub and all appears to be ok after several 
recalibration attempts. But I am back to running 2.23. I'd like to try 2.34


What's happening here?

I am at a loss to figure it out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I also e-mail K3 support but thought I would post here as it is a 
holiday weekend.


Dave- N1LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Issues after loading 2.34--Gremlins--Need Help!

2008-08-31 Thread Vic K2VCO

David and Dianne on Comcast wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2.34/1.89 firmware loading issue to report.


details snipped


What's happening here?


I don't know, but until Don or Lyle or someone who might actually know 
appears, you might try this:


1) Set the K3 baudrate to 38400.

2) Select Send All Firmware to K3 in the K3 Utility and resend 2.34 (if 
you don't have this checkbox, go to View and DE-select Advanced Mode).


In case the firmware didn't load completely, this will give you the best 
chance of getting everything in sync.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Issues after loading 2.34--Gremlins--Need Help!

2008-08-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

That sounds like a computer or USB to serial adapter problem rather than 
a K2 problem.


If you can, try again using a computer with a real serial port and let 
us know the results.


In many, many firmware downloads associated with Firmware Field test, I 
have never experienced a failure - but I am using a real serial port.


73,
Don W3FPR

David and Dianne on Comcast wrote:

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2.34/1.89 firmware loading issue to report.

My K3 #371 has been functioning perfectly until this evening. It has 
the sub-receiver installed which has been working fine as well.


Tonight I decided to load 2.34 Beta and did so successfully but 
after a second attempt.


My first attempt resulted in no DSP being loaded in  DSP1 but it did 
load into DSP 2. I got the following error message 'E000202' on the 
Main display and 'ERR DSE' on the VFO B display.


After my successful second attempt load I then got 'ERR PL 1' on the 
VFO B display when changing bands. It disappeared after a second or 
two but reappeaed on each band change. Lots of background noise but no 
signals.


I attempted to recalibrate PL1. After the recal. it now displays ERR 
VCO E 5 and then Er VC4   E00255.


I reverted back to 2.23 and now get 'ERR PL 2'. So I again re 
calibrated the VCO's main and sub and all appears to be ok after 
several recalibration attempts. But I am back to running 2.23. I'd 
like to try 2.34


What's happening here?

I am at a loss to figure it out.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I also e-mail K3 support but thought I would post here as it is a 
holiday weekend.


Dave- N1LQ
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1643 - Release Date: 8/30/2008 5:18 PM


  

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[Elecraft] Issues after loading 2.34--Gremlins--Need Help!---RESOLVED!

2008-08-31 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi Everyone,

The third time was apparently the charm as after my third load of 
2.34/1.89 all is apparently in order once again.


The cause was unknown but I suspect a communication/port problem problem 
with the K3 and my Toshiba laptop.


The VCO PL1 and PL2 error also seem to be fixed (but fingers crossed on 
this one though).


Many thanks to Lyle, Don, Vic and Ron for the great help and suggestions 
via e-mail.


Amazing support on a Sunday night in the middle of the holiday weekend.

I'll be looking for a deep far east DX opening again tomorrow morning 
1400Z as was this morning when I worked BX, BT, VR and HS on 20m 
barefoot SSB with my wire antenna. This is the most difficult DX path 
here in W1 land.  K3 is a real DX-hound. (Forgive my bragging)


73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Temperature Specifications

2008-08-31 Thread W7TEA

Stewart, I don't know the specifications.  My shack is 23C and the K3
has been on receive all day.  The FP is 31-32C and PA is 30C.  
My fans start when I'm barely into a QSO and when the PA reaches 37C.  
I calibrated the PA just yesterday. 

73, GAry W7TEA


I have had my K3 on receive most of the day, whilst doing other
things in the shack.

By chance I touched the top of the case and it felt quite hot,
given that the shack temperature is 26 deg. According to the LCD
readout both the FP and PA temps were at 34 deg.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for August 31st September 1st, 2008

2008-08-31 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   The forty meter net was not all that loud tonight.  I did take a break after 
it though to go outside.  The black cat gave me a look so I went back inside 
and got a knife and a box.  He now has his very own cat house.  Looks more like 
a cat trap but I think he will adjust :)  It is getting too cold at night for 
him to be very happy.  He stays on the deck where he is safe from the coyotes 
but he is not comfortable.  Now I will see where I find him tomorrow morning.  
If all goes well I will build him a real cat house before winter.  One with 
sliding glass doors and a sun room.  I don't think he would like a jacuzzi.  
   During the twenty meter net there was some sort of contest going on but I 
never found which one.  I looked at the contest calendar: 
www.hornucopia.com/contestcal/weeklycont.php but it was not listed.  Luckily 
the QRM was not too bad.  Scott, N0AR, is working hard.  240 pounds of honey so 
far and not done yet.  How many supers Scott?  QSB was present on both nets as 
was the QRN but not so bad as to cause much difficulty.  During the second net 
there were some sharp snaps which cut in the AGC for a moment.  Someone was 
getting hit by lightning not too far away.  I never had any like the forecast 
predicted but I did get quite a bit of rain today along with the cold.  The 
fire I set last night is still going and I have prepared for another day of 
keeping it going.  Sam is very, very happy guarding the wood supply as it dries 
by the fire.  

On to the lists =

   On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457   ** QNI #240 **
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422  QNI #90
N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 * QNI #120 *
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W3TMZ - Jack - FL - K3 - 1169

   On 7044.5 kHz at 0200z:
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N5SM - Scott - TX - K2 - 6417
W3TMZ - Jack - FL - K3 - 1169
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008   ** QNI #275 **
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
N9NE - Todd - WI - K2 - 1429
W6JDB - Jay - OR - K3 - 1388
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
N7AF - Dave - AZ - K2 - 4795
W4SEC - Pete - FL - K2 - 5813
WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922
WB5BKL - Nick - TX - K3 - 231   QNI #15!!
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866

   If there are any errors in the above lists please do not hesitate to send me 
an email with the corrections.  Hopefully your weather is pleasant.  I received 
temperatures from all over and it appears KL7CW and I are about the same.  Down 
in toasty California things are cooling off.  Maybe some of this northern 
weather is slopping over the Siskiyous :)  Even Arizona is a frozen wonderland 
of sub triple digits!  North Dakota seemed nice as did the report I heard from 
Tom in Missouri.  Now: where are Gustav and Hanna going to make landfall?  
Looks like both the Gulf Coast and the Atlantic Coast need to prepare for some 
heavy weather.  Good luck folks!
   Until next week stay well,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread WILLIS COOKE
When I use a paddle, I use a Bencher Hex, but I do not use the Iambic and only 
close one contact at a time.  It should be the same as a single lever paddle 
when used this way.  I will confess that I have never plugged a paddle into my 
K3, but this method works fine with my TS-850 or my WinKeyer USB.  So far, all 
my CW contacts with my K3 have been with my Vibroplex Original Bug.  Guess I 
need to try the keyer some time, but I am having too much fun with the Bug.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Sun, 8/31/08, n4lq [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: n4lq [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 3:38 PM
 It's not the single vs. dual lever issue that bothers
 these guys. It's the 
 iambic mode, a or b. Mode B has been the standard since the
 early 70's. 
 TenTec came out with their KR-40 which is mode b and ever
 since then mode A 
 has been a step child. All JA rigs use mode B now.
 Basically, mode B has enough brains to know if you held in
 a lever long 
 enough to produce the last element without actually
 starting to send it. 
 People who learned on mode B, trying to send the letter C
 on a mode A 
 machine will end up sending the letter K. The last dit is
 dropped because it 
 wants you to hold in the dit button until that dit has
 started to form. Mode 
 A people who try to send C end up sending KA _._._ because
 they hold the dit 
 lever in too long. Both modes are iambic since holding in
 both levers 
 results in alternate dits and dahs. It's just a matter
 of when to let go!
 A single lever paddle works equally well with either mode.
 In fact when you 
 consider the entire alphabet, less finger movement is
 required with the 
 single lever paddle. This came as a shock to me. Check the
 letter C. On a 
 single lever we swing left, right, left, right. That's
 4 movements. With 
 duals, we (push left and hold), (push right and hold),
 (release left), 
 (release right) for letter C. So we have the same number of
 movements with 
 either paddle. Now let's do A. With single lever we
 swing left, swing right, 
 release. 3 moves. With duals, we push left and hold, push
 right, release 
 left, release right. 4 moves! It all happens so fast that
 you don't realize 
 you are doing it.
 The Kent single lever paddle is a precision device. I
 prefer a wider finger 
 piece over the thin paddle Kent uses however.
 The K3 works well with either single or duals. It
 doesn't know the 
 difference.
 Steve Ellington
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 - Original Message - 
 From: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED];
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 6:16 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
 
 
  Why do you need special interface for a single lever
 paddle?  It works the 
  same as an Iambic paddle except that you can't
 close both contacts at 
  once.
 
  Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
  K5EWJ
 
 
  --- On Sun, 8/31/08, Jack Regan
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 3:10 PM
  Last week I asked K3 Support if single lever
 paddle support
  was on the to
  to do list.  Gary Surrency responded
 that it
  was not but would be
  considered.
 
  within days the answer came back that it would not
 be
  supported due to the
  small number of users affected.
 
 
 
  At first I was a little annoyed but now I am all
 right with
  that decision
  because I have found that I can in fact use my
 Kent paddle
  with a slap and
  dash technique with the K3 internal keyer just the
 way it
  is.
 
 
 
  1.   I changed my weighting to 1.25 and
 selected MODE
  A.
 
  2.   I used the TEXT DECODE function to get
 feedback.
 
  3.   I made sure I was consistently as fast as
 possible
  with my keying
  of elements within a character when switching from
 dot(s)
  to dash(es).
 
 
 
  This technique cured my problem of
 things like
  CQ being seen NNMET
 
  Using the TEXT DECODE function also helped with
 getting rid
  of unwanted
  Farnsworth spacing between characters.  The better
 I get at
  hearing CW the
  more annoying it becomes.  It also makes sending a
 more
  natural rhythm.
 
 
 
  BTW, before I worked this method out I hooked up
 my
  microHam CW Keyer and
  used it and it worked FB with no effort on my part
 but I
  resented having an
  extra box and extra cables on my desk!  In an
 attempt to
  clean up my station
  I went back to using the K3 keyer and worked
 things out!
  Not only did I get
  rid of the external keyer and cables but now the
 Kent
  single lever paddle is
  plugged into the paddle jack and so TEXT DECODE as
 well as
  TERMINAL mode in
  the K3 Utility both work on send and receive.
 
 
 
  Jack AE6GC, K3 1433, KX1 1403
 
  

[Elecraft] CORRECTION Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Don Rasmussen
Thanks Bill, 

I don't *think* I received any special treatment from
the factory, I just sent and email to the guy that
created the transceiver. Amazing. I got a response in
less than an hour, a quote from an actual user of my
configuration. To those reading this, Elecraft will
spoil you for life, never think about buying anything
other - hi. 

Yes, I turned off QSK and have a decent long delay in
semi-break in. I had a QSO with NH6SV tonight and he
reports a clean signal st 599. 

I thought I had Tom cornered on no reason to install
that soft key but I like his answer. In addition, I
had the amp apart several times today and it provided
me with a renewed respect for that little innocent
looking line. ;-) Beforte that comment he made, I
would not have bothered shutting off both units before
connecting / disconnecting. Until or unless I install
soft key, will maintain that procedure. 

..


[Elecraft] CORRECTION Re: SB-221 for K3 need some
help.
Bill W5WVO w5wvo at cybermesa.net 
Sun Aug 31 17:17:45 EDT 2008 

Oops, correction. Looks like the K3 will handle the
SB-220's T-R relay coil voltage after all. Sorry about
that, my bad. You still need to worry about the
closure timing, though. I have my K3 set to the max
(20 ms) and there doesn't SEEM to be a probelm -- but
I've never actually measured how longs it takes the
original Heath frame relay to close. You really should
do that.

Bill W5WVO


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Re: [Elecraft] CORRECTION Re: SB-221 for K3 need some help.

2008-08-31 Thread Don Rasmussen
Oh - by the way - my Sb-221 bandswitch is in a
shambles but I hard wired the amp for 20 meters until
a new switch arrives. I learned a valuable lesson,
bandswitches are delicate, close tolerance devices -
don't ever try to repair one that is cracked - hi -
but the contacts can be replaced if the wafer is good.

Time was, I would never consider working on an amp -
too intimidating. But after a couple K2's, soldering
up those big anough to fit in your hands parts seemed
to be a piece of cake!!!


--- Don Rasmussen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks Bill, 
 
 I don't *think* I received any special treatment
 from
 the factory, I just sent and email to the guy that
 created the transceiver. Amazing. I got a response
 in
 less than an hour, a quote from an actual user of my
 configuration. To those reading this, Elecraft will
 spoil you for life, never think about buying
 anything
 other - hi. 
 
 Yes, I turned off QSK and have a decent long delay
 in
 semi-break in. I had a QSO with NH6SV tonight and he
 reports a clean signal st 599. 
 
 I thought I had Tom cornered on no reason to install
 that soft key but I like his answer. In addition, I
 had the amp apart several times today and it
 provided
 me with a renewed respect for that little innocent
 looking line. ;-) Beforte that comment he made, I
 would not have bothered shutting off both units
 before
 connecting / disconnecting. Until or unless I
 install
 soft key, will maintain that procedure. 
 
 ..
 
 
 [Elecraft] CORRECTION Re: SB-221 for K3 need some
 help.
 Bill W5WVO w5wvo at cybermesa.net 
 Sun Aug 31 17:17:45 EDT 2008 
 
 Oops, correction. Looks like the K3 will handle the
 SB-220's T-R relay coil voltage after all. Sorry
 about
 that, my bad. You still need to worry about the
 closure timing, though. I have my K3 set to the max
 (20 ms) and there doesn't SEEM to be a probelm --
 but
 I've never actually measured how longs it takes the
 original Heath frame relay to close. You really
 should
 do that.
 
 Bill W5WVO
 
 
 

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[Elecraft] Gremlins in the K3 firmware Downloads

2008-08-31 Thread NS5U/1 Jim Benson

Installing the latest beta just gave me similar results of the Gremlins. 
Mostly failure to load and PLL error codes.  I have had no problems in the
past and so I reverted to an earlier version.

Then I realized I was doing a lot of stuff in the background while the
firmware was loading.  Yep when I closed everything else down the newest
version jumped right up and worked.  I run the Elecraft USB/serial cable on
a Macbook.  It works equally as well under Mac OS X as it does under
WinXP..but only when I shut down everything else first.  Didn't
notice this before because I think the excitement of playing with the cable
and firmware revision was absorbing enough I didn't have anything else
running.   

The process has been so stable and simple it has become routine and somewhat
boring so I have taken to playing solitaire or surfing while it is running.
Obviously my machine stumbles with the load and the comport transfer
suffers.

YMMV

Jim
NS5U/1


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Temperature Specifications

2008-08-31 Thread Stewart Baker
Thanks Gary (and others),
I think that since fitting the 2nd RX the unit gets quite a bit
warmer. The supply volts are 13.7 and the current on receive is
1.07A, so that's about 14W, not excessive.

If the unit is on receive and the fans are not running,  the only
place for the heat to escape from the front half of the K3 is via
the speaker hole, and by conduction through the case. The slots at
the back half of the top cover seem to let little heat out because
of the height of the PA shield.

Haven't got an 'official' reply yet.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:03:37 -0700 (PDT), W7TEA wrote:

 Stewart, I don't know the specifications.  My shack is 23C and
the K3
 has been on receive all day.  The FP is 31-32C and PA is 30C.
 My fans start when I'm barely into a QSO and when the PA reaches
37C.
 I calibrated the PA just yesterday.

 73, GAry W7TEA


 I have had my K3 on receive most of the day, whilst doing other
 things in the shack.

 By chance I touched the top of the case and it felt quite hot,
 given that the shack temperature is 26 deg. According to the LCD
 readout both the FP and PA temps were at 34 deg.


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