Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3
Yes, that's all there is to it. Allan Bacon-3 wrote: To confirm what I think you are saying here is? RCA plug on a wire from the K3 KEY OUT (RCA/Phono) to the RELAY RCA on the Amp ? Thus keying the K3, also keys the amp? 73, Al W6GBG - Original Message From: NZ0T n...@cox.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:50:40 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3 David, I run the Al-811 (3 tubes otherwise the same as the 811H) with my K3 and interface is very easy. There is no need to use ALC just adjust the K3 power output so you are not overdriving the amp. With my setup that's around 60- 70 watts out. You just need a simple cable with RCA plugs as the keying line and you are good to go. GL and 73, Buill NZ0T David Wilburn wrote: I will be picking up an AL-811H soon. I was first licensed in 2001 and I have never had an amp. The 811 requires a 15ms delay, and I noticed that the firmware now supports up to a 20ms delay, so I should be good there. The 811 documentation talks quite a bit about the use of ALC, and the K3 documentation talks quite a bit about NOT using ALC. I'm not sure where to go with this. Anyone using a K3 with an 811? Do I need to use ALC with it? I am trying to get everything ready for the upcoming contests, so timing is becoming an issue. The current manual says to see the website to see if you need the mod kit. The website says to see the mod kit manual, to see if you need to the mod kit. The manual does not say anything about how to determine if you need the mod kit, so I assume that if -12v ALC is needed, the mod needs to be done. Is this correct? I do not see any mention in the K3 documentation about connecting to amps. It looks like the key out is used to key the amp. The manual says up to 200v DC @ 5A. The 811 documentation only mentions 12v, and gets grounded for keying the amp. Do I need any other devices inline for keying the amp? -- David Wilburn NM4M http://www.nm4m.com K2 - S/N 5982 K3 - S/N 766 Latest Firmware ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/AL-811H-Amp-and-K3-tp1328824p1328843.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/AL-811H-Amp-and-K3-tp1328824p1672691.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: Halted by tiny screws
I do recall when I asembled my K3 kit that the 2-56 screws were not where I expected to find them, and it was cause for worry. I recommended in a reflector message that Elecraft put in a couple extra in the spare hardware bag. 73, Chuck NI0C K2/10 s/ 5853 K3/100 s/n 1061___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Headphones
Anyone looking for headphones? I have been using the Heil Pro Set headphones for some time with my K3. However, for cw contesting I have always felt that are a little sharp and quite uncomfortable after an hour or so. Last week I bought the Bose QC2 and tried those. Whilst the audio quality is ok, for the price (£220) they are not that good. Also, the cupped earpieces are probably fine for noise cancelling during long haul flights, Im not convinced that they are best suited for my needs in the shack. I returned the QC2 phones and replaced them with the Bose on-ear phones (£117). Audio very nice (cw copy is particularly pleasing), and I guess with a difference impedance to the Heil, a little less drive required fro the rig. They are comfortable and unlike the cupped earpiece, Im aware of other sounds around the shack. The Pro Set phones only needed for SSB work now. Cheers, Terry G4MKP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. 73,72 Mike, W9QS EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF K2, OHR500, Norcal 20, SP1 Fists #12327, FP #268, OOTC #4423, QRPARCI #9521 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
Maybe none. You get great filtering out of the DSP. The roofing filters are most helpful when very strong signals are present nearby. Operating mostly QRP, you might never run into that problem. k4ia Buck Fredericksburg, VA K3# 101 In a message dated 12/18/2008 9:04:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, w...@yahoo.com writes: I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. 73,72 Mike, W9QS EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF K2, OHR500, Norcal 20, SP1 Fists #12327, FP #268, OOTC #4423, QRPARCI #9521 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Halted by tiny screws
Thanks to all those who helped off-list. To summarize, the missing 2-56 1/4 screws for the front panel standoffs were located in the VFO bezel screw pouch which is apparently their normal location. I guess I just don't equate a standoff with a bezel. Plus the warnings about damaging bezels by using incorrect screws - I didn't open the pouches ahead of time to avoid mixing anything up. Radio Shack carries a 2-56 screw assortment if anyone is ever in need. In fact I used one of the RS screws as a sacrificial piece when opening up the screw holes on the faceplate. All is well and the K3/10 construction resumes after the small road bump. One final note. When I unsealed the LCD bezel screw pouch, one of the four screws was obviously longer than the others. Nothing that I can't fix, but beware of that possibility before you attach the bezel. Benson K4GST ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup
I'm in the process of picking up a PK-232, primarily for EmComm / Pactor 1. I'm not intending to start a passionate discussion between FSK / AFSK, but had a question. I have been running AFSK since I received my K3 last March. It has worked well, but it is the only RTTY I have known. I have seen the reason given for running FSK vs. AFSK as the ability to use the radio's filters. That is a moot point in the K3. I also understand that when using FSK, it is a different distribution of resources. I have MMTTY running with N1MM (when I am contesting), and MMTTY triggers the radio via VOX. This has the annoyance that when I click on a SSB spot, then a noise in the shack triggers the VOX kicks in and causes feedback. Now to my question. If I am happy with how the RTTY is performing now using AFSK, what is the incentive to setup for FSK? Dave Wilburn NM4M Ed Gray W0SD wrote: For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3 using FSK here is the information. I would think you could do this very similarly for the Hal and other TNC'S. Of course the specific wiring would be different but the same general hook up should work. This set up does not use the computer sound card at all. First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you are going to use. I used Writelog but there are other software programs that will work. The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer. There is absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card. The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1. Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same tone and shift that you have the K3 set to. On the K3 activate pitch and set it accordingly. Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I have Writelog set at. From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio 2 RX input on the PK-232. This jack is hooked respectively to the same place as J4 or J6 which is the 5 pin flat connector. I would suggest using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out to J3 which is the Radio 1 RX input. The K3 end is a sterio plug and the PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3 go ahead and use a stereo cable and plug it into the K3 line out. On the PK-232 end of this cable cut off the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug. The tip from the stereo plug should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be the left channel. This will be the K3 audio. The ring(one next to the tip) would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the barrel from the stereo plug to the ground of the mono plug. Go to the K3 config:Line out. I set it for about about 25. Remember the K3 manual is talking about sound card input when they mention 10 and here we are talking about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to have at least 200 mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then calculating RMS I came up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS. It is better to be a little low than too high so you don't have distortion. For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1 of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug. You hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy. The K3 accessory jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1. Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires can short to each other. From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4. This should complete the FSK setup for the K3 with the PK-232. Ed W0SD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Headphones
Good grief, that's a lot of money to spend on earphones. I have been using cheap (~$15) Sony foam pad earphones with excellent results for years. But I am also happy with my Heil boom set. I don't find them sharp at all but they do make the XYL tap my shoulder if she needs my attention. G4MKP wrote: Anyone looking for headphones? I have been using the Heil Pro Set headphones for some time with my K3. However, for cw contesting I have always felt that are a little sharp and quite uncomfortable after an hour or so. Last week I bought the Bose QC2 and tried those. Whilst the audio quality is ok, for the price (£220) they are not that good. Also, the cupped earpieces are probably fine for noise cancelling during long haul flights, Im not convinced that they are best suited for my needs in the shack. I returned the QC2 phones and replaced them with the Bose on-ear phones (£117). Audio very nice (cw copy is particularly pleasing), and I guess with a difference impedance to the Heil, a little less drive required fro the rig. They are comfortable and unlike the cupped earpiece, Im aware of other sounds around the shack. The Pro Set phones only needed for SSB work now. Cheers, Terry G4MKP snip - AB2TC - Knut -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Headphones-tp1672987p1673381.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup
When using AFSK and Vox are you using the K3's Line In for the audio source? If so the mic should not be live unless you have the menu item set for MIC+LINE set to YES. You can also set PTT and not use VOX by using the same RS232 port the radio is on. Set it in the software and set CONFIG PTT-KEY to RTS-OFF or DTR-OFF (set the software to match the line you set). 73 Greg AB7R -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of David Wilburn Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 7:25 AM To: Elecraft Discussion List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup I'm in the process of picking up a PK-232, primarily for EmComm / Pactor 1. I'm not intending to start a passionate discussion between FSK / AFSK, but had a question. I have been running AFSK since I received my K3 last March. It has worked well, but it is the only RTTY I have known. I have seen the reason given for running FSK vs. AFSK as the ability to use the radio's filters. That is a moot point in the K3. I also understand that when using FSK, it is a different distribution of resources. I have MMTTY running with N1MM (when I am contesting), and MMTTY triggers the radio via VOX. This has the annoyance that when I click on a SSB spot, then a noise in the shack triggers the VOX kicks in and causes feedback. Now to my question. If I am happy with how the RTTY is performing now using AFSK, what is the incentive to setup for FSK? Dave Wilburn NM4M Ed Gray W0SD wrote: For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3 using FSK here is the information. I would think you could do this very similarly for the Hal and other TNC'S. Of course the specific wiring would be different but the same general hook up should work. This set up does not use the computer sound card at all. First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you are going to use. I used Writelog but there are other software programs that will work. The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer. There is absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card. The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1. Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same tone and shift that you have the K3 set to. On the K3 activate pitch and set it accordingly. Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I have Writelog set at. From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio 2 RX input on the PK-232. This jack is hooked respectively to the same place as J4 or J6 which is the 5 pin flat connector. I would suggest using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out to J3 which is the Radio 1 RX input. The K3 end is a sterio plug and the PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3 go ahead and use a stereo cable and plug it into the K3 line out. On the PK-232 end of this cable cut off the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug. The tip from the stereo plug should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be the left channel. This will be the K3 audio. The ring(one next to the tip) would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the barrel from the stereo plug to the ground of the mono plug. Go to the K3 config:Line out. I set it for about about 25. Remember the K3 manual is talking about sound card input when they mention 10 and here we are talking about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to have at least 200 mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then calculating RMS I came up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS. It is better to be a little low than too high so you don't have distortion. For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1 of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug. You hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy. The K3 accessory jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1. Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires can short to each other. From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4. This should complete the FSK setup for the K3 with the PK-232. Ed W0SD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
Hi Mike, Buck may be right, maybe none.? But, based on my first experience with the K3 in the fox hunt the other night, if you have to buy one, a 400hz filter might be a good choice.? I can see where it might make a difference when you find the fox nudged right next to a strong non QRP station.? Either way the K3 is a big step up from the K2.? I haven't found myself wanting a tighter filter yet. Good luck in the 40M tonight.? Work got the way tonight and I'm 4,000 miles away from my rig in Switzerland.? I hope I got to help you spend your money. HI! Chuck? HB9/K4QS -Original Message- From: Mike, W9QS w...@yahoo.com To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 9:03 am Subject: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. 73,72 Mike, W9QS EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF K2, OHR500, Norcal 20, SP1 Fists #12327, FP #268, OOTC #4423, QRPARCI #9521 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup
Now to my question. If I am happy with how the RTTY is performing now using AFSK, what is the incentive to setup for FSK? I think you answered your own question :-) In the olden days, before good SSB rigs were common, direct FSK was the best -- perhaps the only -- way to generate clean RTTY signals. Modern radios like the K3 offer excellent carrier and opposite sideband suppression, so AFSK can generate signals every bit as good as FSK, at least on a practical basis. I'm sure there will be some who will be aghast and strongly differ with this assertion, but the point is that using AFSK on the K3 for RTTY operation works very well. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
I would echo the other responses that you may well not need any narrower roofing filters. You might try using just the stock 2.7 kHz filter for a while and see how it goes. I recently added the 400 Hz filter and so far, it makes virtually no difference EXCEPT in the case where there's a strong signal within +/- 1 kHz or so of the station I'm trying to work. Note that a strong signal might be another ham station, a broadcast station, RFI, etc. If you're interested in listening to shortwave or AM broadcast stations on your K3, then you might consider the 6 kHz (AM) or 13 kHz (FM) filters. Of course, you'll also need those filters if you intend to operate those modes. There's a good article on the Elecraft web site about roofing filters. Check out http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Dec 18, 2008, at 6:03 AM, Mike, W9QS wrote: I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup
First, I agree with Greg that there is a better alternative to VOX that doesn't require any additional hardware. Configure either RTS or DTR on your radio port in N1MM Logger for PTT and make the corresponding choice in the K3's CONFIG: PTT-KEY menu item. As for FSK vs. AFSK, with the K3 there appears to be no difference as far as performance is concerned. The differences are simply in the way you interface the radio to the computer and the way you configure the MMTTY software to transmit. If you already have a device or interface that does FSK keying (e.g. a TU like the PK-232 or a microKeyer with the appropriate cables for the K3), then the choice is between using an audio patch cable to the K3's LINE IN jack for AFSK or a keying cable to the ACC connector for FSK. If you do not have an external FSK keying device with the necessary cables you will probably find AFSK easier to hook up than FSK. For AFSK all you need is an audio patch cable. For FSK you will need an extra serial port on the computer as well as a keying circuit (one transistor) to convert the keying signal from RS-232 to TTL voltage levels. As regards software configuration, if you are using MMTTY you may find it slightly easier to configure MMTTY to transmit using AFSK than FSK. With FSK there is also a possibility that you will need to configure the K3's FSK polarity setting to get the transmit polarity correct. Bottom line: if you have a PS-232, go ahead and use it for FSK. If you do not, AFSK is the simpler choice. 73, Rich VE3KI Dave Wilburn wrote: I'm in the process of picking up a PK-232, primarily for EmComm / Pactor 1. I'm not intending to start a passionate discussion between FSK / AFSK, but had a question. I have been running AFSK since I received my K3 last March. It has worked well, but it is the only RTTY I have known. I have seen the reason given for running FSK vs. AFSK as the ability to use the radio's filters. That is a moot point in the K3. I also understand that when using FSK, it is a different distribution of resources. I have MMTTY running with N1MM (when I am contesting), and MMTTY triggers the radio via VOX. This has the annoyance that when I click on a SSB spot, then a noise in the shack triggers the VOX kicks in and causes feedback. Now to my question. If I am happy with how the RTTY is performing now using AFSK, what is the incentive to setup for FSK? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 w/ KRX3 and LP-Pan/Emu 0202
I have decided to sell my K3. It consists of the following: K3/100, serial no 530 KAT3 Antenna tuner KRX3 Sub receiver KXV3 Transverter interface KFL3A-500 (2x) 500 Hz CW filters in main and sub receivers MH2 Hand microphone I am asking $2850 which includes shipping within continental US. I also have the LP-Pan panadapter and Emu 0202 USB Sound card available for $230 including shipping within continental US. Please respond directly if you are interested. 73, Pat K0PC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup
Thanks for all of the replies. I use VOX with MMTTY, because in the past there was a sharing problem with some programs needing to access the ports. When contesting I use N1MM / MMTTY. When I was just RTTY hamming, I was using ACLOG and MMTTY, which did not like to share. Now I have setup DX Labs, and will likely use that and WinWarbler for general digital hamming, but the frequencies and modes are all over the place at the moment, from the default setup. Need to play with it some more and get it setup. Thus I can likely use the RTS DTS settings now. Dave Wilburn NM4M David Wilburn wrote: I'm in the process of picking up a PK-232, primarily for EmComm / Pactor 1. I'm not intending to start a passionate discussion between FSK / AFSK, but had a question. I have been running AFSK since I received my K3 last March. It has worked well, but it is the only RTTY I have known. I have seen the reason given for running FSK vs. AFSK as the ability to use the radio's filters. That is a moot point in the K3. I also understand that when using FSK, it is a different distribution of resources. I have MMTTY running with N1MM (when I am contesting), and MMTTY triggers the radio via VOX. This has the annoyance that when I click on a SSB spot, then a noise in the shack triggers the VOX kicks in and causes feedback. Now to my question. If I am happy with how the RTTY is performing now using AFSK, what is the incentive to setup for FSK? Dave Wilburn NM4M Ed Gray W0SD wrote: For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3 using FSK here is the information. I would think you could do this very similarly for the Hal and other TNC'S. Of course the specific wiring would be different but the same general hook up should work. This set up does not use the computer sound card at all. First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you are going to use. I used Writelog but there are other software programs that will work. The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer. There is absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card. The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1. Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same tone and shift that you have the K3 set to. On the K3 activate pitch and set it accordingly. Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I have Writelog set at. From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio 2 RX input on the PK-232. This jack is hooked respectively to the same place as J4 or J6 which is the 5 pin flat connector. I would suggest using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out to J3 which is the Radio 1 RX input. The K3 end is a sterio plug and the PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3 go ahead and use a stereo cable and plug it into the K3 line out. On the PK-232 end of this cable cut off the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug. The tip from the stereo plug should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be the left channel. This will be the K3 audio. The ring(one next to the tip) would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the barrel from the stereo plug to the ground of the mono plug. Go to the K3 config:Line out. I set it for about about 25. Remember the K3 manual is talking about sound card input when they mention 10 and here we are talking about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to have at least 200 mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then calculating RMS I came up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS. It is better to be a little low than too high so you don't have distortion. For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1 of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug. You hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy. The K3 accessory jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1. Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires can short to each other. From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4. This should complete the FSK setup for the K3 with the PK-232. Ed W0SD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
I have a K3/10 which I use for CW. I got the 13 KHz (for AM bcst) and 500 Hz filters, which I'm happy with. I could get a narrower one but just haven't felt the need for it yet. 73, Drew AF2Z On Thu, 18 Dec 2008 06:03:43 -0800 (PST), Mike, W9QS wrote: I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. 73,72 Mike, W9QS EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
On Thu, 18 Dec 2008 08:14:51 -0800, Joe Planisky wrote: I recently added the 400 Hz filter and so far, it makes virtually no difference EXCEPT in the case where there's a strong signal within +/- 1 kHz or so of the station I'm trying to work. Note that a strong signal might be another ham station, a broadcast station, RFI, etc. Yes. Remember that the IF in the K3 has EXTENSIVE IF filtering that perform the function of crystal filters in older radios. Those filters can be adjusted (front panel knob) to virtually any bandwidth between 50 Hz and 6 kHz, and are the equivalent of a selectable filter bank of 20 or more expensive filters! The roofing filter simply sits IN FRONT OF these IF filters. It protects them from overload, AND provides additional skirt selectivity. The radio works fine for routine use with nothing more than the stock 2.7 kHz roofing filter. The roofing filters simply improve performance under difficult conditions. I own two K3s, one with 400 Hz and 1.8 kHz filters, the other with only a 400 Hz filter. I operated from two QTHs during the SSB weekend of Sweepstakes. At one QTH I had the 1.8 kHz filter, at the other I did not. The 1.8 kHz filter helped, but I was still quite happy with the radio that didn't have the 1.8 kHz filter. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Roofing Filters
Thanks to all that responded. I think I will wait and see. BTW. My K2 will be up for sale as soon as the K3 is built and running. 73,72 Mike, W9QS EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF K2, OHR500, Norcal 20, SP1 Fists #12327, FP #268, OOTC #4423, QRPARCI #9521 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Roofing Filter question (+ some K3 receiver philosophy)
Mike, W9QS wrote: I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. Mike, If you operate CW at all, you'll almost surely want at least one narrow filter. Either our 400 Hz or 500 Hz filter would be a great all-around choice. I'm *not* just trying to sell filters :) The reason you need a narrow filter is that the K3's entire receiver architecture is based on the premise that the 1st I.F. filter should be close to the communications bandwidth in use. This is what sets the K3 apart from other transceivers that use an up-conversion architecture, and thus very wide front-end filtering (at least in relation to CW or data modes -- 3 to 15 kHz). The K2 has a similar architecture to the K3. In that case, a single crystal filter covers bandwidths from about 200 to 2000 Hz. The K3 builds on this concept, using multiple fixed-bandwidth filters with much lower ripple, stronger signal handling in all stages, and a synthesizer with extremely low phase noise. But both receivers use low-noise 2nd IFs that really should be protected from out-of-band signals. (In this case, out of band means outside the crystal filter.) If you're a K2 owner, you're already use to the protection you get from narrow filtering. You'll probably want that same kind of signal handling performance in your K3 if you use it on Field Day, or during a contest, or just when the band is open and signals are strong. If you look at Sherwood's receiver performance chart (http://www.sherweng.com/table.html), you'll see that the K2 has respectable IMD dynamic range at 2 kHz: close to that of the Icom IC-7800 (at 1/10th the price :) But the K3 is at the top of the chart -- 15 to 20 dB better, depending on the filter bandwidth. To obtain this benefit from having a K3, IMHO you really need narrow filtering. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
Joe, I agree with Jim's advice here. I have used my K3 several times in CW contests from Aruba as P49Y, most recently on a 40m single band operation in CQWW, on a very crowded band. For that kind of usage, I think the narrow CW filter is advisable. With it, I was never bothered by signals even a few hundred Hertz away (unless they had clicks extending into my passband, of course), and I think the DSP along with the 2.7 kHz filter wouldn't have stopped the loudest signals. BTW, one think that makes the K3 such a great run radio is that in those circumstances you also have a very clean passband, devoid of the kind of digital artifacts that I hear, for example, on my 756 Pro2 on a crowded band. 73, andy, ae6y - Original Message - From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:52 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question On Thu, 18 Dec 2008 08:14:51 -0800, Joe Planisky wrote: I recently added the 400 Hz filter and so far, it makes virtually no difference EXCEPT in the case where there's a strong signal within +/- 1 kHz or so of the station I'm trying to work. Note that a strong signal might be another ham station, a broadcast station, RFI, etc. Yes. Remember that the IF in the K3 has EXTENSIVE IF filtering that perform the function of crystal filters in older radios. Those filters can be adjusted (front panel knob) to virtually any bandwidth between 50 Hz and 6 kHz, and are the equivalent of a selectable filter bank of 20 or more expensive filters! The roofing filter simply sits IN FRONT OF these IF filters. It protects them from overload, AND provides additional skirt selectivity. The radio works fine for routine use with nothing more than the stock 2.7 kHz roofing filter. The roofing filters simply improve performance under difficult conditions. I own two K3s, one with 400 Hz and 1.8 kHz filters, the other with only a 400 Hz filter. I operated from two QTHs during the SSB weekend of Sweepstakes. At one QTH I had the 1.8 kHz filter, at the other I did not. The 1.8 kHz filter helped, but I was still quite happy with the radio that didn't have the 1.8 kHz filter. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Roofing Filter question (+ some K3 receiver philosophy)
wayne burdick wrote: Mike, W9QS wrote: I have a K3/10 on order. I have used my K2 for over a year and find the filters to be very good. I operate 90% on the time on QRP CW. I'm looking for opinions on which roofing filters I might include. Mike, If you operate CW at all, you'll almost surely want at least one narrow filter. Either our 400 Hz or 500 Hz filter would be a great all-around choice. I'm *not* just trying to sell filters :) The reason you need a narrow filter is that the K3's entire receiver architecture is based on the premise that the 1st I.F. filter should be close to the communications bandwidth in use. This is what sets the K3 apart from other transceivers that use an up-conversion architecture, and thus very wide front-end filtering (at least in relation to CW or data modes -- 3 to 15 kHz). The K2 has a similar architecture to the K3. In that case, a single crystal filter covers bandwidths from about 200 to 2000 Hz. The K3 builds on this concept, using multiple fixed-bandwidth filters with much lower ripple, stronger signal handling in all stages, and a synthesizer with extremely low phase noise. But both receivers use low-noise 2nd IFs that really should be protected from out-of-band signals. (In this case, out of band means outside the crystal filter.) If you're a K2 owner, you're already use to the protection you get from narrow filtering. You'll probably want that same kind of signal handling performance in your K3 if you use it on Field Day, or during a contest, or just when the band is open and signals are strong. If you look at Sherwood's receiver performance chart (http://www.sherweng.com/table.html), you'll see that the K2 has respectable IMD dynamic range at 2 kHz: close to that of the Icom IC-7800 (at 1/10th the price :) But the K3 is at the top of the chart -- 15 to 20 dB better, depending on the filter bandwidth. To obtain this benefit from having a K3, IMHO you really need narrow filtering. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com I got the 6, 2.7 (standard), and 1.8 KHz filters in my K3. I realize that a narrower filter will be good for crowded CW with strong stations, but was waiting for the release of the variable filter mentioned on the website. Is there any more recent information on the status of that option? MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance -- Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8) P.O. Box 73 Frenchtown, MT 59834 USA QTH: DN27UB TEL: (406) 626-5728 URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj 2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Variable-BW crystal filters
Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote: I got the 6, 2.7 (standard), and 1.8 KHz filters in my K3. I realize that a narrower filter will be good for crowded CW with strong stations, but was waiting for the release of the variable filter mentioned on the website. Is there any more recent information on the status of that option? Hi Lance, Variable-passband CW filters are still under development. (We raised the bar pretty high with our fixed filters, and we're trying to make sure it stays high.) We're looking at various bandwidth possibilities for these. One likely candidate is 300-800 Hz or so, in 8 discrete steps. We'll post details when we get there. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] re: Halted by tiny screws
Jack K8ZOA wrote: A good hobby shop catering to the model aircraft builders should have 2-56 hardware. http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/index.html RTL Fasteners has a large selection of 2-56 screws and other small black hardware. They ship quick and are nice to deal with. I use them for my R/C stuff. Terry, WØFM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Variable-BW crystal filters
wayne burdick wrote: Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote: I got the 6, 2.7 (standard), and 1.8 KHz filters in my K3. I realize that a narrower filter will be good for crowded CW with strong stations, but was waiting for the release of the variable filter mentioned on the website. Is there any more recent information on the status of that option? Hi Lance, Variable-passband CW filters are still under development. (We raised the bar pretty high with our fixed filters, and we're trying to make sure it stays high.) We're looking at various bandwidth possibilities for these. One likely candidate is 300-800 Hz or so, in 8 discrete steps. We'll post details when we get there. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com MNI TNX Wayne! That sounds like it would be just the ticket for CW! I look forward to hearing more as it progresses ;-) GL and VY 73, Lance -- Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8) P.O. Box 73 Frenchtown, MT 59834 USA QTH: DN27UB TEL: (406) 626-5728 URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj 2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Any amplifier news?
I know a huge effort is going into updating microcode and getting more K3s and their accessories out and I appreciate that, since I have benefited greatly from that effort (I am really enjoying my K3, especially in a CW contest environment where the dynamic range and selectivity really shine). However, the only thing stopping me from selling my IC-7800 and PW1 (and replacing with another K3) is the wait for the Elecraft amplifiers. So, I am wondering if we have any ideas of when they will move off the back burner and go on the front burner? I realize such information might not be readily available or accurate even due to inevitable unanticipated delays, but it is the next big deal I am waiting for from Elecraft, and I was hoping to keep my appetite alive. 73 de Dave, W5SV K1, KX-1, K2, K3 - all getting use here, while the TS-480, FT-897, FT-857, IC-7000 gather dust. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Amplfied speakers
Hi, For the benefit of those K3 owners in the UK, Tesco have a 1/2 price offer on Logitech X-140 speakers at £19.97. My K3 has never sounded so good on AM. They need quite a bit of drive, they are connected to the rear head phone socket with AF GAIN on HI. The finish also matches the K3 ok as well. Happy holidays Tim gm4lmh ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Amplfied speakers
I would be VERY cautious about buying amplified loudspeakers. While I have no experience with the particular model cited, I've only seen (so far) one amplified speaker that didn't have at least some problem with RFI. It was a Genelec, approximate cost $2K. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Amplfied speakers
Maybe I'm strange (OK, no maybe about it) but I don't see the attraction of good speakers for the K3. I use headphones all the time and they sound fabulous. Every time I switch back to speakers I find I can't hear signals or copy them as easily. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ESD Question!
Good afternoon All. They say an un-asked question is the only "dumb" question. Well, here goes! I'm an appliance operator and my technical skills are kinda shallow. I do have a DMM and know how to use it. I'm in the planning stage of building my dream transceiver: aka an Elecraft K3. After reading through the assembly manual [thanks to its availability on the Internet], it's very clear that I should not try such a project without an ESDWrist Strap and ESD Mat. I have these in my possession as we speak. They were purchased from a commercial company advertising them as ESD items. That leads me to my question.How canI be assured that this MatIS grounding a PCB [or anything else] during the "build" process? I checked the resistance of the Wrist Strap and sure enough there is a 1M Ohm resistor in there. I cannot figure a way to check the Mat's grounding. It's "alligator clip"is attached to my station's woven metal Ground Strap system. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and Best 73. Jim. WA4NTM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
Mike, If you do any contesting or if you want to operate during a contest, roofing filters are the way to go. As I get older the pumping noise from adjacent signals has become ever more distracting. The rig I used for the California QSO party was new and had a Collins 500Hz virtual roofing filter. During the contest some stations could copy me but I could not copy them due to the pumping generated by adjacent signals. I now use a K3 with real 2.8 kHz, 1.8 kHz and 400 Hz roofing filters. The improvement was dramatic. 73, Fred, AE6IC. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
Jim,
There are *no* dumb questions! In fact, this is a good question and
not asked nearly as often as it maybe should!
The biggest issue with ESD is keeping a discharge from going
*through* you equipment. In *theory*, an ungrounded system offers some
protection from this, but it is not recommended. If you have any ground
(third wire or station ground), that will suffice. Usually, the third
wire ground is used. I believe that's because 1) its ubiquitous and 2)
because its ubiquitous, it'll be at the same potential with most of the
things you have in your house which intern means you'll have little
chance of becoming a bridge circuit in a ground loop (two grounds
with different potentials). While this usually isn't an issue, I have
heard of ground loops with potentially hazardous voltages. Maybe not so
much for people as for equipment.
You should be able to check your mat the same way you checked your
wrist strap. Measure between the alligator clip and the mat itself. You
should get similar (~1 megohm) results. Its been a long time since I've
messed with mine, but IIRC, you should be able to make this measurement.
Now, whether the ground you've chosen is effective is another
matter. An interesting revelation is to measure between your station
ground and your electrical ground. And, as I understand it, your station
ground should be bonded to your electrical ground at the panel's ground
rod. Why? Well, it helps keep lightening from using your ground (and
consequently, you equipment!) instead of the designated driver,
so-to-speak. Of course, any direct hit and all bets are off. In fact,
because of EMP, you can have electronics that are not even plugged in
get fried. Isn't that special! {'-)
I hope this helps.
Regards,
kurtt
Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
capo...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Good afternoon All.
They say an un-asked question is the only dumb question. Well, here
goes!
I'm an appliance operator and my technical skills are kinda shallow.
I do have a DMM and know how to use it.
I'm in the planning stage of building my dream transceiver: aka an
Elecraft K3.
After reading through the assembly manual [thanks to its availability
on the Internet], it's very clear that I should not try such a
project without an ESD Wrist Strap and ESD Mat. I have these in my
possession as we speak. They were purchased from a commercial company
advertising them as ESD items.
That leads me to my question. How can I be assured that this Mat IS
grounding a PCB [or anything else] during the build process?
I checked the resistance of the Wrist Strap and sure enough there is a
1M Ohm resistor in there.
I cannot figure a way to check the Mat's grounding. It's alligator
clip is attached to my station's woven metal Ground Strap system.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks and Best 73.
Jim.
WA4NTM
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Amplfied speakers
Well I have a real clean set of amplified speakers someone through away a Dayton a few years back that sound really nice but I get a little feedback into them. The one's I use that I like are the BOSE Companion II. Nice audio, no feedback but I didn't dig these out of the trash. As far as a communication speaker I Have my trusty Icom SP-20. Also a nice speaker is my Sounds Sweet speaker. I want to sell it but it would cost a good bit to ship it. 73 de KE4WY Jim -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tim Heasman Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 2:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplfied speakers Hi, For the benefit of those K3 owners in the UK, Tesco have a 1/2 price offer on Logitech X-140 speakers at £19.97. My K3 has never sounded so good on AM. They need quite a bit of drive, they are connected to the rear head phone socket with AF GAIN on HI. The finish also matches the K3 ok as well. Happy holidays Tim gm4lmh ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
Hi Jim, Unfortunately, you probably can't check to make sure the mat is actually an ESD mat, since it's resistance will be too high for your DMM to measure. It will just show as an open circuit on a DMM. There are ways to measure the resistance by letting the sheet discharge a capacitor and measuring the discharge rate, but I'm guessing you wouldn't be interested in doing that, especially since getting reliable measurements is a bit tricky. That said, I wouldn't worry about harming your K3, so long as you wear your wrist strap. If your mat was advertised as an ESD mat, it most likely is just that. And even if it is not, you should be fine. if you ground your wrist strap and ground the chassis of the K3 while you're assembling it. 73, Jim W8ZR _ From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of capo...@bellsouth.net Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:21 PM To: Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] ESD Question! Good afternoon All. They say an un-asked question is the only dumb question. Well, here goes! I'm an appliance operator and my technical skills are kinda shallow. I do have a DMM and know how to use it. I'm in the planning stage of building my dream transceiver: aka an Elecraft K3. After reading through the assembly manual [thanks to its availability on the Internet], it's very clear that I should not try such a project without an ESD Wrist Strap and ESD Mat. I have these in my possession as we speak. They were purchased from a commercial company advertising them as ESD items. That leads me to my question. How can I be assured that this Mat IS grounding a PCB [or anything else] during the build process? I checked the resistance of the Wrist Strap and sure enough there is a 1M Ohm resistor in there. I cannot figure a way to check the Mat's grounding. It's alligator clip is attached to my station's woven metal Ground Strap system. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and Best 73. Jim. WA4NTM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
On the theory that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, I try to minimize the static generation in the first place. Long before I had an anti-static mat I practiced static minimization. For example: 1) Don't wear insulated sole shoes when working on your equipment. And avoid nylon, wool, or other material in your clothing that might encourage static generation if it is accidentally rubbed (i.e., you shift your weight while seated). 2) If your work area floor is carpeted, spray Downy or some other fabric softener, diluted, using a spray bottle (like an old Windex sprayer) and lightly spray the area under your workbench and where your chair will be. Fabric softener is conductive and will help bleed away carpet static under reasonable conditions for a few hours. 3) Sit quietly in your chair while working, with your feet on the floor (no rubber soles). Don't shuffle your feet - especially if a carpeted area - and don't wiggle in your chair. 4) I have no pets, but many people have static-generators (aka cats) that wander freely through their work area. Induce the cat to not be anywhere near you when you are working, and in such a way that does not require you to move in your chair to keep it away from you. 5) Touch the frame of the equipment, then touch the ground area of the PC board, then assemble. This will equalize any charge differential between them. 6) If you are being handed a PC board, or handing it to someone, *first* touch their hand, *then* place the PC board in their hand. This will equalize the charge differential between your bodies. 7) Don't even think about using a plastic-based table as your K3 assembly area! I have some excellent 4' and 6' folding tables from Costco, but I don't use them for work areas. If I do have to use one for parts sorting or some similar activity, I use the static mat even if there is high relative humidity in the workspace! 8) Dry air is your enemy. Cold weather outside and forced-air heat inside are a recipe for static. If you don't have a humidifier, all is not lost, but you must be especially aware of static avoidance! Enjoy! 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and IC- 2KL; negative voltage modification
On 5 dec 2008, at 13.56, Ron N9RC wrote: I believe the K3 may have a power spike on first sylable that causes some of the trips. I do not use ALC but as things settle I may try it. I use the MFJ 600 watt auto tuner with the 2KL and generally it works quite well. I was not happy with a AT-500 I had. I was also of the firm opinion not to use ALC, but as my K3's power output fluctuates a lot in SSB and sometimes for no reason also trips the amps in CW I have ordered the ALC mod to make sure I protect the amp. When I set power for 50 watts output and confirm this power level with TUNE, I easily get 65+ watts on SSB within a few seconds after keying up and start talking. Then slowly the power settles down to the set level or even below. I will do the mod and hook up ALC as a safe guard and keep it that way until Elecraft finds a solution to my (and others) fluctuating power problem. 73 de Björn, SM0MDG SE0X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 + Microkeyer II - RF into paddle input
Terry, I don't know if this is the same problem, but there is a well-documented issue with MicroKeyers (actually with the Winkey chip). It has to do with the properties of certain metallic compounds used in the contacts on the keys. The Begali keys are the ones most apt to have the problem, but there could be others. You end up with extra 'dits' and occasionally other anomalies. The fix is somewhere on the microHam USA web site -- they sell an interface that goes between the key and the MicroKeyer and fixes the issue, Good luck and 73, John, WA6L g4amt wrote: Has anyone had a problem with RF getting into the paddle input of the MKII ? Problem is reduced somewhat by careful adjustment of the router `Winkey` page, but essentially series of Ds likey to turn into Ms and Gs (!); fine with K3 on test so has to be RF based. MKII keys clean with no problems `internally` but misbehaves when keyed with paddle. Tried all usual decoupling - separate power supplies etc etc .. On a slightly separate but perhaps relevant note, I have no +12V output on the rear phone jack on the K3 - this is bracketed (switched) in the manual but I can find no reference to where to switch it ! ... it means running the MKII from a 12v psu with the DB37-EL-K3 12v in phone lead floating free. Thanks in advance for any help ! Terry G4AMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-%2B-Microkeyer-II---RF-into-paddle-input-tp1665248p1675283.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Any amplifier news?
I would like to know that as well. I was interested in the KPA's when they were first announced. I have a K3 on order, and it sure would be nice to pair that with the KPA-1500. Lou, W0FK *** However, the only thing stopping me from selling my IC-7800 and PW1 (and replacing with another K3) is the wait for the Elecraft amplifiers. So, I am wondering if we have any ideas of when they will move off the back burner and go on the front burner? I realize such information might not be readily available or accurate even due to inevitable unanticipated delays, but it is the next big deal I am waiting for from Elecraft, and I was hoping to keep my appetite alive. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Any-amplifier-news--tp1674058p1675340.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 feeling of knobs and switches
.k8dd. wrote: Maybe it's not me and the way I press the switches! Most of mine flash between two numbers when I hold the switch . I take it that this is not normal, and probably why it does strange things sometimes when I either tap or hold some of the switches . Like when Band Down (or Up) goes down (or up) two bands and maybe turns on (or off) the VOX sometimes - Not real steady. Thanks for the hint! 73HankK8DD While most of my switches flash between two or more numbers on CONFIG:SW TEST, I guess that's normal. It really must be the way I press the BAND and MODE switches to make them do strange things. 73HankK8DD -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-feeling-of-knobs-and-switches-tp1661699p1675435.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Any amplifier news?
Wh? KPA-1500? *rubs eyes* Since when did this happen? Oh gosh my xmas list has already been mailed to Santa! Daarnit! I had heard so much about the K3+ ACOM magic combo I was saving every dime I had for one of those beauties. I realize it's not real yet. But.. that would be really cool... Where do we queue up for this? -- Jeff Wandling DE W7BRS K3 #2105 http://w7brs.com/k3 k...@w7brs.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 feeling of knobs and switches
For the record, my readings are perfectly stable on one number even if I do my best to tease the button press. .k8dd. wrote: snip While most of my switches flash between two or more numbers on CONFIG:SW TEST, I guess that's normal. It really must be the way I press the BAND and MODE switches to make them do strange things. 73HankK8DD - AB2TC - Knut -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-feeling-of-knobs-and-switches-tp1661699p1675558.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter question
Fred Atchley wrote: The rig I used for the California QSO party was new and had a Collins 500Hz virtual roofing filter. During the contest some stations could copy me but I could not copy them due to the pumping generated by adjacent signals. A 70Mhz 1st i.f. with a 20Khz filter just ain't gonna cut it in a tight cw contest, even if you creatively name the 2nd i.f. filters. 73, Barry N1EU -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Roofing-Filter-question-tp1674625p1675584.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
Wow, Lyle. You sound like the nuns in parochial school. But Sister, I *can't* sit still! 73--Nick, WA5BDU (squirming and fidgeting) Lyle Johnson wrote: 3) Sit quietly in your chair while working, with your feet on the floor (no rubber soles). Don't shuffle your feet - especially if a carpeted area - and don't wiggle in your chair. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 30/80 Assembly
Hello, I am building my 2nd KX1. I am currently working on the 30/80 meter option. On my first KX1, I was able to fairly easily position this board so that both the variable capacitors were centered perfectly over their holes. On this KX1, I'm unable to do this. No matter what I do, they are offset from the holes. I have removed the 2 filter crystals closest to this board and after doing that, I can position the board to fit, but if I were to do that, I couldn't reinstall the crystals. I have checked that I have installed the two variable capacitors the proper way. Does anyone have any idea why this doesn't fit? Could the circuit board I received be too big? Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF (ex KA9OKT) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 feeling of knobs and switches
Hmmm . Strange Support tells me it's normal for the readings to flicker/change numbers and probably not the cause of double band changes, etc. ab2tc wrote: For the record, my readings are perfectly stable on one number even if I do my best to tease the button press. .k8dd. wrote: snip While most of my switches flash between two or more numbers on CONFIG:SW TEST, I guess that's normal. It really must be the way I press the BAND and MODE switches to make them do strange things. 73HankK8DD -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-feeling-of-knobs-and-switches-tp1661699p1675838.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Amplified speakers
I have been using West Mountain Radio COM spkr for amplified stereo speakers for the K3. They work wonderfully and there is absolutely no rfi with transmitting with the K3 and amplifier at 1 KW. I highly recommend them. 73, Steve ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - Speaker resonance
I *always* use headphones, but had a visitor in the shack and turned on the speaker for, I think, the first time. There is a really annoying resonance that occurs at much lower AF gain levels than I normally run. My pitch is set at 600 Hz and it is pretty distorted at moderately low levels. Possibly I did something during assembly to cause this. Happy holidays to all, 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2009 Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2009 - www.cqp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Power-on AF noise burst
For what it's worth, I noticed some power-on noise with my K3 which was really no big deal but after I installed the AF Stage Mods the power-on noise went away. SN here 176. Best 73, Steve ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 30/80 Assembly
Jay, The KXB3080 board mounts on the component side of the KX1 just below the encoder and to the left side of the bandwidth and AF Gain control bodies - it sounds to me like you are trying to mount it on the solder side. The crystal cans are on the opposite side of the KX1 board from the KXB3080 board. There is no way that the crystals can interfere with the board. 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Hello, I am building my 2nd KX1. I am currently working on the 30/80 meter option. On my first KX1, I was able to fairly easily position this board so that both the variable capacitors were centered perfectly over their holes. On this KX1, I'm unable to do this. No matter what I do, they are offset from the holes. I have removed the 2 filter crystals closest to this board and after doing that, I can position the board to fit, but if I were to do that, I couldn't reinstall the crystals. I have checked that I have installed the two variable capacitors the proper way. Does anyone have any idea why this doesn't fit? Could the circuit board I received be too big? Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF (ex KA9OKT) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Any amplifier news?
For those who don't know, take a look at these links, or do a search in the list archives: http://www.n6ie.com/Elecraft.html http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/sedxc/2006-April/002485.html It would be nice to have the amps offered. They look quite attractive, even considering other commercial offerings available. I believe we'd have them now, but for the K3 development effort. Not that I'm complaining Lou, W0FK Wh? KPA-1500? *rubs eyes* Since when did this happen? Oh gosh my xmas list has already been mailed to Santa! Daarnit! -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Any-amplifier-news--tp1674058p1676264.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and separate KPA-100 for sale
Price reduced, K2 with almost all options and/or KPA-100 + KAT-100 in EC-2 case for sale.Available separately or as a complete station, additional savings if you purchase all of it at one time. Several additional K2 accessories available separately, with or without the base rig. Professionally assembled and aligned, everything works per specifications. Non-smoker, like new appearance, no dents, dings, scratches, etc. Priced less than kit price, and pre-paid shipping via FedEx (to any of the 50 USA states) included in price. Contact me off list for complete details. - Jim, KL7CC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
Those things are fine to do, **if** you are grounded or touch a ground before resuming work touching the parts. Simple movement of the arms while working can be dangerous as the fabric on your clothing rubs while you move. Remember, we're talking about ESD damage resulting from a *few volts* of static charge, not hundreds of volts or the kilovolts it takes to produce a little spark. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nick-WA5BDU Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 5:01 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question! Wow, Lyle. You sound like the nuns in parochial school. But Sister, I *can't* sit still! 73--Nick, WA5BDU (squirming and fidgeting) Lyle Johnson wrote: 3) Sit quietly in your chair while working, with your feet on the floor (no rubber soles). Don't shuffle your feet - especially if a carpeted area - and don't wiggle in your chair. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!
Another thing that many people do not recognise with the need for ESD protection is that the damage is not necessarily going to appear straight away. I'd like a dollar for every time somebody told me that they have never taken any precautions and everything works fine, not realising that they have maybe wiped years off the component reliability. Every time your body zaps something it doesn't necessarily blow but it sure does weaken things, maybe just a fraction but when stressed in service that will all factor in to the ultimate life and failure of the component. Martin, HS0ZED Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Those things are fine to do, **if** you are grounded or touch a ground before resuming work touching the parts. Simple movement of the arms while working can be dangerous as the fabric on your clothing rubs while you move. Remember, we're talking about ESD damage resulting from a *few volts* of static charge, not hundreds of volts or the kilovolts it takes to produce a little spark. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nick-WA5BDU Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 5:01 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question! Wow, Lyle. You sound like the nuns in parochial school. But Sister, I *can't* sit still! 73--Nick, WA5BDU (squirming and fidgeting) Lyle Johnson wrote: 3) Sit quietly in your chair while working, with your feet on the floor (no rubber soles). Don't shuffle your feet - especially if a carpeted area - and don't wiggle in your chair. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ESD: final answer
1. use a room with a wooden floor 2. use a wooden table 3. sit on a wooden chair 4. have a mister going 5. do not wear any clothing 6. use an esd matt and wrist strap 7. don't send in any photos ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Power-on AF noise burst
Hi Steve, The AF mods are worthy, but the disappearance of the power-on noise may be coincidental. I had to fix this in firmware, and we haven't declared that revision as beta-ready yet. 73, Wayne N6KR W0SZ wrote: For what it's worth, I noticed some power-on noise with my K3 which was really no big deal but after I installed the AF Stage Mods the power-on noise went away. SN here 176. Best 73, Steve --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 feeling of knobs and switches
Hank (K8DD) wrote: Hmmm . Strange Support tells me it's normal for the readings to flicker/change numbers... This normal for the SCN ADC menu entry. I didn't try to do averaging or hysteresis on this reading because it would be overkill (it's strictly for test purposes). Each switch's reading has to fit into a bin that's about +/- 3 counts, and your readings were well within range. and probably not the cause of double band changes, etc. That sounds like switch bounce. I do debounce the switches in firmware, but it's possible you have the 1 in a million switch with a slight deformation in its carbon contact or polydome. Customer support can arrange to get you a new switch matrix for your front panel, if necessary. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3 feeling of knobs and switches
ab2tc wrote: For the record, my readings are perfectly stable on one number even if I do my best to tease the button press. Not relevant to Hank's problem, though. The A-to-D converter has an inherent +/- 0.5 count ambiguity, and you just got lucky :) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Menu help text and factory default settings
Sometime when you're cruising through the K3's menus, wondering what some of the entries are for, try tapping DISP. This will show help information for the current menu entry. For example, if you're in CONFIG:SMTR PK, tapping DISP will show: (OFF) PK-READING S-MTR If a value in parentheses is shown at the start of the text, it's the factory default; this is useful if you want to set some things back to their original values. (Some entries, like CONFIG:FW REVS, don't have a default.) You can tap any switch to cut off the scrolling help text before it finishes. So, you think the CONFIG menu doesn't have enough entries? That means you probably have CONFIG:TECH MD (tech mode) set to OFF. Set it to ON and stand back ;) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Menu help text and factory default settings
Wayne Burdick wrote... snip, snip So, you think the CONFIG menu doesn't have enough entries? That means you probably have CONFIG:TECH MD (tech mode) set to OFF. Set it to ON and stand back ;) Which brings me to ask Why wouldn't one just leave his K3 in TECH MD all the time? Is there a disadvantage to this? 73, George T Daughters, K6GT CU in the California QSO Party (CQP) October 3-4, 2009 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Menu help text and factory defaultsettings
less things to scroll through in CONFIG that you are not likely to need. Greg -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of gdaug...@stanford.edu Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:04 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Menu help text and factory defaultsettings Wayne Burdick wrote... snip, snip So, you think the CONFIG menu doesn't have enough entries? That means you probably have CONFIG:TECH MD (tech mode) set to OFF. Set it to ON and stand back ;) Which brings me to ask Why wouldn't one just leave his K3 in TECH MD all the time? Is there a disadvantage to this? 73, George T Daughters, K6GT CU in the California QSO Party (CQP) October 3-4, 2009 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3 Operating Tip: Menu help text and factory default settings
So, you think the CONFIG menu doesn't have enough entries? That means you probably have CONFIG:TECH MD (tech mode) set to OFF. Set it to ON and stand back ;) Which brings me to ask Why wouldn't one just leave his K3 in TECH MD all the time? Is there a disadvantage to this? You might want to leave TECH MD set to OFF so you won't accidentally change parameters best left at their present values. Most TECH MD entries are for tests that are used during initial calibration or troubleshooting. Others enable features that are less-often used, and if turned on unintentionally might cause confusion. The owner's manual has full descriptions. I do encourage everyone to read the entire menu section, just so you'll know what you can do with the rig. (Or, if you don't like to read manuals, just go to each one in turn and tap DISP to get the short version.) The latest firmware includes some menu entries not yet documented in the manual. I'll post an updated list of these when I get a chance. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Internal keyer question
It's official, my fledgling K3 gets delivered today (It's 1:30AM so it'll be a while yet). I am definitely having a good day. :) As to CW the K3... I use iambic paddles. I Always used keyers based on the Curtis 8044 like the Ham Keyer HK5A. I still do. I remember the TenTec internal keyer was a different kind of logic and I had a terrible time with it. If I remember correctly, it had an issue with extra dits getting inserted at the end of certain characters. I went back to the Ham Keyer. Anyone know if the keying logic that's internal to the K3 is the same logic as the Ham Keyer HK5A? It would be wonderful to be able to plug the iambic paddles into the K3, shelve the HK5A and have one less item on my desk. Thanks, Gary KA1J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3 Internal keyer question
Gary Smith wrote: As to CW the K3... I use iambic paddles. I Always used keyers based on the Curtis 8044 like the Ham Keyer HK5A. I still do. I remember the TenTec internal keyer was a different kind of logic and I had a terrible time with it. If I remember correctly, it had an issue with extra dits getting inserted at the end of certain characters. I went back to the Ham Keyer. Anyone know if the keying logic that's internal to the K3 is the same logic as the Ham Keyer HK5A? It would be wonderful to be able to plug the iambic paddles into the K3, shelve the HK5A and have one less item on my desk. Hi Gary, The keyer state machine in the K3 firmware emulates the Curtis keyer chip if you set IAMBIC = A in the CONFIG menu (default). It emulates the Super CMOS keyer's mode B if you set IAMBIC = B. Based on your description, I think you'd like mode A. Some K3 owners have asked for emulations closer to other keyers. Firmware can be changed (small matter of programming). Enough said ;) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Any amplifier news?
Me Too, but try as I might Information was not forthcoming so I am about to give up and buy an Acom instead which as a shame as I too thought it would be nice to get a KPA-1500 and another K3. Maybe the continuously growing list of wishes will slow down some so that Aptos can move on but it would appear that this is not likely in the near future so perhaps we will see an announcement in 2010? In the meantime I too will continue to enjoy the K3 which is an outstanding product. Gary K3/100 #679 I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
