[Elecraft] K3 - Removing screws with split lock washers - care...
When loosening screws that have split lock washers underneath, the washer often turns with the screw initially and scores (or worse) the underlying copper earthing ring; earthing could be affected but also there may be copper 'filings' floating around the rest of the board. I've just replaced the DSP board on K3 #145 due to a minor fault which only came to light after fitting the KRX3 (scratchy audio for 10 -15 minutes after switch on while the front panel warms up and which disappears when the aux dsp is removed - presumably a faulty aux dsp I/O on the main dsp board); I found I'd slightly damaged the mounting holes while removing the 3 metal pillars that support the aux dsp pcb. If I was doing this for another reason which meant re-installing the main dsp board it would be much better in this particular instance to hold the screw still with a cross-head screwdriver and loosen by undoing the pillar on the other side with a nut driver; that way the washer should stay still and not scrape the copper ring. Incidentally, dealing with Elecraft support was easy, efficient and totally painless. If only the rest of life was this good.. Apologies to anyone who has read this before when I originally posted this message via Nabble; for some reason Nabble didn't want to forward it here. 73, Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF (Hoping to be C56/GW0ETF with the rejuvenated K3 late Feb/early March...) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment?
Hello, this is Karsten, DL1QC, I´m slightly handicaped in hearing on left ear, so I hear CW with K3 always a litte bit out of the middle. Is there an option or procedure to adjust the level of the stereo phones left/right separately? vy 73 es tnx for all de Karsten - DL1QC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] PC Color Codes
Mike, The universal color codes that PC's use on their cound card plugs are: Red=Mic in Green=Line out Blue=Line in This is assuming your sound card is set up for analog sound out and not 6 channel digital. On some sound cards there are additional plugs for rear speakers and digital output which you dont use for amateur radio connunications. Old sound cards use lables (which are hard to read) and are all the same color plugs. 73 Dave KD1NA Dave Wrote...but did apply all of the applicable hardware mods to date. So hopefully the distortion is not hardware related but operator error in driving my soundcard too hard. Dave, When I have my K3 Line Out plugged into my sound card rear microphone input I see IMD products that I don't see when I plug into the Line In on the PC soundcard. It is difficult for me to know which one I am plugged into because I do not understand the color code on the PC sound input output panel. The only way I make sure I am plugged into Line In is to bring up the Windows microphone panel and mute all inputs but Line In and make sure that I am getting a waterfall trace with only Line In selected. If no noise on the waterfall I plug into another socket until I finally arrive at Line In. I found this made quite a difference on my set up when I finally plugged into the correct place. Mike Scott__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
It seems we need to find a set of colored LED's that give similar output as the reds With the research done so far, doesn't look at that likely. I wonder if there are other resources. I wonder if a resistor pack of a slightly higher value than 470 might be a better compromise and change the value of the SWR reds so they won't draw more than the others. This would help reduce power draw. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- From: Doug Joyce [mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca] Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:40 PM To: Bill Johnson; 'Dave Van Wallaghen'; 'Jack Smith' Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Bill: I've done some further testing and believe it's going to take increasing the current to approx 6 to 7 ma to get the new coloured LEDs to be bright enough. That would involve reducing the 2.2 Ks to approx 470 ohms and finding a source for a suitable resistor pack. At this higher current the red LEDs are still brighter than the other colours and there is no easy way to separately control the current to individual colours. There are also a number of other things to check such as the ability of the U3 regulator to handle the increased current. Battery life will also be reduced and perhaps this coloured version needs to be run from a wall wart. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - The Professional version does not have this message __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
I'm in the process of building the W1 and have substituted the colored LED's on the SWR readout as has been discussed. I really haven't been following this thread closely and I haven't finished the W1 build yet so this may have already been covered. I include myself when I say that it seems that everyone seems to be replacing SOME of the red LED's with the green, amber and yellow jobbies. And we seem to be using the red LEDs that came with the W1. Has anyone replaced ALL of the LEDs, including the RED ones. Wouldn't using all now LED's from the same manufacturer, and specs give the desired results of consistent brightness? Again, I didn't do this because I wasn't aware of the issue when started, but the LEDs I got from Mouser were relatively inexpensive (about $0.15 each) so this might have been an easier fix. Perhaps this had previously been covered. Just a thought Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 - Original Message - From: Doug Joyce d_jo...@sympatico.ca To: Bill Johnson b...@creeksidecomputing.com; 'Dave Van Wallaghen' w8...@comcast.net; 'Jack Smith' jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' k...@rfwave.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Bill: I've done some further testing and believe it's going to take increasing the current to approx 6 to 7 ma to get the new coloured LEDs to be bright enough. That would involve reducing the 2.2 Ks to approx 470 ohms and finding a source for a suitable resistor pack. At this higher current the red LEDs are still brighter than the other colours and there is no easy way to separately control the current to individual colours. There are also a number of other things to check such as the ability of the U3 regulator to handle the increased current. Battery life will also be reduced and perhaps this coloured version needs to be run from a wall wart. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - From: Bill Johnson b...@creeksidecomputing.com To: 'Dave Van Wallaghen' w8...@comcast.net; 'Jack Smith' jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' k...@rfwave.net Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Thanks for the excellent discussion and possible solutions. Please include me in the effort to experiment. My Hakko 808 hasn't been used for a month so I wouldn't mind helping out. I will gladly put in some $'s to purchase parts/share in cost to get at a solution. Suggestion: if the green and yellow output is sufficient and the amber is the only low output, perhaps it might best to revert back to either yellow or red... the user could decide. Let me know what I can do. I would also be ok with replacing the drive resistors to boost the LED output for SWR readings: perhaps reducing the Power LED output slightly might be a power consideration for battery conservation. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- ... my guess is that the W1 was designed for low current consumption being battery operated and used for portable ops. So I'm sure your calculations are right on. ... ordered the Lumex line of red, yellow and green leds that Doug spoke about. They are all very close in forward voltage and are all rated at 10mcd output. I also ordered the amber, although it is only rated at 5mcd and their super red which is rated at 80mcd. I will try these out on my W1 to see the differences. Besides, I just bought a new Hakko 808 I've been wanting to try out. My guess is at worst, the power scale leds may be brighter than the SWR scale, but I can at least get the SWR uniform in brightness. Other than that, it might take replacing the power scale leds as well for those who want it totally uniform. Or like Jack alluded to, replacing the series resistors which doesn't sound like much fun to me (and possibly increasing current consumption). I will make current measurements before I replace anything and record the changes in current while experimenting. I will post my results back to the list. If there is enough interest (and it seems like there is) I would not mind ordering these in quantity and a splitting them up 73, Dave W8FGU Jack Smith wrote: I have some experience driving LEDs from a PIC (both in my book Programming the PIC Microcontroller with MBasic) as well as the Z100 CW tuning aid kit that I developed. (Still available, should anyone be interested, as well as the book is still in print.) The Z100 uses red, yellow and green rectangular LEDs, driven from a PIC with a small series resistor. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z100_tuning_aid.htm for more details. For all practical purposes, a PIC won't source more than about 20 mA even into a short circuit. Looking at the W1's schematic (I don't own one) it seems that the maximum current available to
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Good Morning Bill, There has been a lot of back and forth on this, so let me share the direction I'm going to take on this. I ordered red, yellow and green LED's made by Luxen that all have very similar specs. My guess is that they will be significantly less bright than the existing red LED's and that we would have to play with a resistor pack value that would provide the happy medium of brightness and current draw (and not stressing the LM78L05 as Jack has pointed out). Doug has already experimented a little with this and found 470 ohms gave him the brightness he desired. At this point, I'm not sure what the current draw would be or if that is feasible with the LM78L05. I believe that I might be able to come up with the right combination of LED's and resistor packs to obtain a decent level of brightness with uniformity between the LED's without compromising the design with an exorbitant current draw. As I said yesterday, I will take current measurements before I start and make comparisons during the experimentation, hopefully arriving at a state that provides the happy medium discussed above. I should have most of the parts in here sometime early next week. My desire is to have the least impact possible on the W1 design and minimize the impact on the builder as well. And hopefully we can provide this solution to new as well as existing units. Then again, I may be all wet here ;-) I guess the worst case is that I have to buy another W1 from Elecraft ;-) 73, Dave W8FGU Bill Johnson wrote: It seems we need to find a set of colored LED's that give similar output as the reds With the research done so far, doesn't look at that likely. I wonder if there are other resources. I wonder if a resistor pack of a slightly higher value than 470 might be a better compromise and change the value of the SWR reds so they won't draw more than the others. This would help reduce power draw. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- From: Doug Joyce [mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca] Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:40 PM To: Bill Johnson; 'Dave Van Wallaghen'; 'Jack Smith' Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Bill: I've done some further testing and believe it's going to take increasing the current to approx 6 to 7 ma to get the new coloured LEDs to be bright enough. That would involve reducing the 2.2 Ks to approx 470 ohms and finding a source for a suitable resistor pack. At this higher current the red LEDs are still brighter than the other colours and there is no easy way to separately control the current to individual colours. There are also a number of other things to check such as the ability of the U3 regulator to handle the increased current. Battery life will also be reduced and perhaps this coloured version needs to be run from a wall wart. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - The Professional version does not have this message __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 1000 local, 3630 KHz
The frequency is plus or minus the QRM. Note the start time of 1000 hours to try and minimise European QRM. 73 Dave, G4AON K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: Hi Doug, This certainly happens with the K2. The cause in the K2 case is that the CW sidetone oscillator signal gets into the VCO's varicap circuit and frequency modulates the VCO. The sidebands that I can see coming from my K2 in CW mode are symmetrical above and below carrier, one pair about 90db below carrier and the others much lower in amplitude. Their level varies with band. I had a bad case of this with my K2 and fixed it by replacing the quad DAC IC. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd:RE:RE:RE:RE Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting
I don't think anyone ignored you, Jim. According to the time stamps on the e-mails I got yesterday morning, your answer to the question arrived *after* Tom, I, and at least one other fellow answered all within a few minutes. That happens sometimes because there may be a significant delay in the e-mail server between the time you submit a post and when it is distributed to others reading the posts. The delay is not the same for everyone. In that case I checked for answers just before submitting my response and there were none - a couple of comments that didn't answer the question but no answers yet, not even yours. Yes, it might feel like a bit of a 'waste of time' when several virtually identical answers appear like that, but isn't that better than no answer at all? Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:30 PM To: JIM DAVIS Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd:RE:RE:RE:RE Off Topic question about shortwave broadcasting On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:39:13 -0800, you wrote: Did not anybody get MY EXPLANATION about 40m SW broadcasters earlier??? OH WELL! Sometimes offering information out here is a WASTE OF TIME!!! Jim/nn6ee I think I sent that before you explained the new band plan. 73 es have a good weekend 73, Tom, N5GE K3 806 XV144 XV432 http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Another new K3
Hi all. New K3 #2717 here, and thought you old timers might be amused, and you yet-to-be old timers might be interested in the rig's 1st impressions. I ordered on Monday, and it arrived in 7 days last Monday, a full week ahead of when I expected it. I would say it took working on and with it all week to finally get things under control and feeling very familiar. Today I even had a chance to hook it up with N1MM and poke around the DX CW contest at 3AM. Yes, my sleep patterns have changes since the K3's arrival. I run a compromise roof antenna, and prepared for the K3's arrival with a 9' vertical wire in the corner of the shack for the 2nd receiver Diversity receive. That's working really well. Even with the marginal setup, I can hear the propagation switching from ear to ear. I think that's what I like best. I have been doing A/B same antenna comparisons between my old FT897 and the K3, and the DX contest was a perfect opportunity for testing with weak signals repeating CQ over and over. At first I was surprised to find the FT897 receiving quite well. In fact strong signals come through much louder on the FT897's AGC. Most weak signals were present on both rigs. Now I see (hear) the difference. On the FT897 they're there, but I can not copy. Seems muddled, and perhaps losing just enough dits here and there to be confusing. On the K3 weak signals are still weak signals, but the DSP brings them through sharper with less noise, and the copy is OK. It's the difference between making or breaking the QSO. I'm sure most on this list already knew that, but I didn't. If there's a signal to receive at all, it can be done. I think it's what I like best. My roof antenna starts right out of the tuner, through walls and ceilings to the roof where it stretches out for 170'. The 2nd receiver vertical indoor wire is right next to the feed point. I was only getting light (compared to loud at times when I really had things screwed up) relay noise from the K3 on 80M. I ran a 20' radial off the indoor antenna's tuner, and the relay noise is gone. That's luck, and a good sign that all things are fixable with enough wire. The Tune feature is really sweet, actually showing the SWR numbers at low power. The keyer memory is fantastic, and fills in information for 50% of most QSO content. This is my 1st QSK machine, and it's silent and great. Let me just say I like what every knob and button does. And I've yet to try phone and see what awaits me there. I am happy. I think that's what I like best. Now if someone would recommend very comfortable headphones to replace the $15 jobbie that got at Walgreens, I would be even happier. 73, Wayne WA9VEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment?
Karsten Beyer wrote: Hello, this is Karsten, DL1QC, I´m slightly handicaped in hearing on left ear, so I hear CW with K3 always a litte bit out of the middle. Is there an option or procedure to adjust the level of the stereo phones left/right separately? Not sure if you have the Sub RX but this may work if you do: MCU 2.67 / 1.96, 11-12-2008 * MAIN/SUB BALANCE CONTROL: If CONFIG:SUB AF is set to BALANCE, then the SUB AF GAIN control becomes a main/sub AF balance control when the sub receiver is turned on (including diversity mode). In this case the MAIN AF GAIN controls the AF gain level for both receivers. When SUB AF is at 12 o’ clock, both receivers will be at full volume (main left, sub right). If SUB AF is rotated fully counter-clockwise, you’ll hear only the main receiver. If it’s rotated fully clockwise, you’ll hear only the sub receiver. At intermediate settings you’ll hear both. A BALANCE control is very useful for contesting and split operation. But it can also save a lot of AF gain control tweaking (i.e., matching main and sub), since MAIN AF controls both main and sub receiver audio. 73, Bill -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-phones---separate-left-right-volume-adjustment--tp2363403p2364244.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m
Hi all. My K2 is working fine on 160m, 80m, 30m and 20m but not 40m. I have switched between ANT1 and 2. RANT is OFF. Nothing helps... What went wrong for me? Any settings to check or could it be a hardware failure? 73, Svend OZ7UV TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr. - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/ Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online - Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på http://mail.tdconline.dk/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment?
Well I did learn something today. Like many I waited until the 2nd receiver was available adding it to my K3 and had not even attempted to use it for dual receive split operation until yesterday. On 20 meters working the K5D when I would turn the sub on I would hear an increase in noise a rumbling sound that was very distracting. I checked to ensure both receivers were same bandwidth, agc, volume etc. Not figuring it out I contacted Support was advised to check the REF CAL VCO CAL. This did not fix it. Here was the simple solution that I stumbled upon that's in the menu, I changed SUB AF from NOR to BALANCE. Now all is well. 73 de KE4WY Jim -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 11:18 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment? Karsten Beyer wrote: Hello, this is Karsten, DL1QC, I´m slightly handicaped in hearing on left ear, so I hear CW with K3 always a litte bit out of the middle. Is there an option or procedure to adjust the level of the stereo phones left/right separately? Not sure if you have the Sub RX but this may work if you do: MCU 2.67 / 1.96, 11-12-2008 * MAIN/SUB BALANCE CONTROL: If CONFIG:SUB AF is set to BALANCE, then the SUB AF GAIN control becomes a main/sub AF balance control when the sub receiver is turned on (including diversity mode). In this case the MAIN AF GAIN controls the AF gain level for both receivers. When SUB AF is at 12 o clock, both receivers will be at full volume (main left, sub right). If SUB AF is rotated fully counter-clockwise, youll hear only the main receiver. If its rotated fully clockwise, youll hear only the sub receiver. At intermediate settings youll hear both. A BALANCE control is very useful for contesting and split operation. But it can also save a lot of AF gain control tweaking (i.e., matching main and sub), since MAIN AF controls both main and sub receiver audio. 73, Bill -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-phones---separate-left-right-volume-adjustment--tp23 63403p2364244.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Tom: Most of this has already been covered to some degree, but let me try to summarize. I got from Digi-Key some of the green LEDs from the same mfr (Avago) as the red ones provided with the W1 kit. Yellow and amber / orange are also mf'd by Avago but are not available in reasonable quantities (min order of over 3000 each), so I got some yellow and amber mf'd by Lumex with similar characteristics. (part numbers etc are in one of my prior posts). I installed green for D16, D17 D18 (SWR of 1.1, 1.2 1.3), yellow for D19 D20 (SWR of 1.5 1.7) and amber for D21 (SWR of 2.0). When installed on the W1, all of the new colours are significantly dimmer than the red - depending on ambient lighting level ranging from very dim to visible. In the W1, the current in the LEDs is approx 1.5 ma per LED (calculated as [5V - 2V (the voltage drop across the LED)] / 2k) and it is switched on and off to each pair of LEDs by the microprocessor and back and forth from POWER and SWR by Q3 Q4 (2N7000s). Using some of the extra LEDs, I hooked up one each of red, green, yellow and amber to a power supply set for 3 volts with a resistor substitution box and found that at 1.5 ma the brightness was as when installed in the W1. To get the brightness of the new colours up to a reasonable level took approx 6 to 7 ma and the red ones continued to be brighter than the other colours. (Note that the Luminous Intensity for the Avago LEDs is spec'd at a fwd current of 20 ma and this design is using fwd currents significantly less than that. (Lumex devices have similar spec's). The solution seems to be to reduce the value used for the resistor pack keeping in mind that the reds will always be brighter than the other colours because of the different fwd current vs luminosity curves for the different colours at this low current. With the given circuit layout, it is not possible to use different value resistors for each colour of LED because they are driven in pairs and then switched back and forth from POWER to SWR by Q3 Q4. Note that RP2A serves to provide the current for both D6 (FWD Pwr of 1.5W) and D16 (SWR of 1.1:1) and so on. I'm going to continue looking for a different value of resistor pack to increase the visibility of the new colours without compromising the other aspects of the design - power dissipation in U3, battery life etc. Hope this helps. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - From: Tom McCulloch th...@att.net To: Doug Joyce d_jo...@sympatico.ca Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 8:41 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 I'm in the process of building the W1 and have substituted the colored LED's on the SWR readout as has been discussed. I really haven't been following this thread closely and I haven't finished the W1 build yet so this may have already been covered. I include myself when I say that it seems that everyone seems to be replacing SOME of the red LED's with the green, amber and yellow jobbies. And we seem to be using the red LEDs that came with the W1. Has anyone replaced ALL of the LEDs, including the RED ones. Wouldn't using all now LED's from the same manufacturer, and specs give the desired results of consistent brightness? Again, I didn't do this because I wasn't aware of the issue when started, but the LEDs I got from Mouser were relatively inexpensive (about $0.15 each) so this might have been an easier fix. Perhaps this had previously been covered. Just a thought Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: cw xmiting 2 signals 600hz apart: HELP
Vic K2VCO wrote on Saturday, February 21, 2009 3:32 PM The cause in the K2 case is that the CW sidetone oscillator signal gets into the VCO's varicap circuit and frequency modulates the VCO. The sidebands that I can see coming from my K2 in CW mode are symmetrical above and below carrier, one pair about 90db below carrier and the others much lower in amplitude. Their level varies with band. I had a bad case of this with my K2 and fixed it by replacing the quad DAC IC. - Hi Vic, I tried that with my K2, and it should have made some difference, but maybe the quad DACs that I bought fell off the back of a truck. So I have not bothered to do anything more because the sidebands are so far down, and not heard by anyone that I have asked to check when signals are S9+. This question was asked by Doug about K3s, but I thought that I would mention the K2 in case the K3's sidetone signal does something similar. 73, Geoff GM4ESD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Is there a red LED with similar characteristics to the other colors so that increasing the current will not result in the increase in red output relative to the rest? I brought all current contributors into the address in the event we move off list. I am also collecting into a single file by filtering my mail. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- Tom: Most of this has already been covered to some degree, but let me try to summarize. I got from Digi-Key some of the green LEDs from the same mfr (Avago) as the red ones provided with the W1 kit. Yellow and amber / orange are also mf'd by Avago but are not available in reasonable quantities (min order of over 3000 each), so I got some yellow and amber mf'd by Lumex with similar characteristics. (part numbers etc are in one of my prior posts). I installed green for D16, D17 D18 (SWR of 1.1, 1.2 1.3), yellow for D19 D20 (SWR of 1.5 1.7) and amber for D21 (SWR of 2.0). When installed on the W1, all of the new colours are significantly dimmer than the red - depending on ambient lighting level ranging from very dim to visible. In the W1, the current in the LEDs is approx 1.5 ma per LED (calculated as [5V - 2V (the voltage drop across the LED)] / 2k) and it is switched on and off to each pair of LEDs by the microprocessor and back and forth from POWER and SWR by Q3 Q4 (2N7000s). Using some of the extra LEDs, I hooked up one each of red, green, yellow and amber to a power supply set for 3 volts with a resistor substitution box and found that at 1.5 ma the brightness was as when installed in the W1. To get the brightness of the new colours up to a reasonable level took approx 6 to 7 ma and the red ones continued to be brighter than the other colours. (Note that the Luminous Intensity for the Avago LEDs is spec'd at a fwd current of 20 ma and this design is using fwd currents significantly less than that. (Lumex devices have similar spec's). The solution seems to be to reduce the value used for the resistor pack keeping in mind that the reds will always be brighter than the other colours because of the different fwd current vs luminosity curves for the different colours at this low current. With the given circuit layout, it is not possible to use different value resistors for each colour of LED because they are driven in pairs and then switched back and forth from POWER to SWR by Q3 Q4. Note that RP2A serves to provide the current for both D6 (FWD Pwr of 1.5W) and D16 (SWR of 1.1:1) and so on. I'm going to continue looking for a different value of resistor pack to increase the visibility of the new colours without compromising the other aspects of the design - power dissipation in U3, battery life etc. Hope this helps. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - I'm in the process of building the W1 and have substituted the colored LED's on the SWR readout as has been discussed. I really haven't been following this thread closely and I haven't finished the W1 build yet so this may have already been covered. I include myself when I say that it seems that everyone seems to be replacing SOME of the red LED's with the green, amber and yellow jobbies. And we seem to be using the red LEDs that came with the W1. Has anyone replaced ALL of the LEDs, including the RED ones. Wouldn't using all now LED's from the same manufacturer, and specs give the desired results of consistent brightness? Again, I didn't do this because I wasn't aware of the issue when started, but the LEDs I got from Mouser were relatively inexpensive (about $0.15 each) so this might have been an easier fix. Perhaps this had previously been covered. Just a thought Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1
Doug, Perhaps we should all by additional units just for experimenting. A bit of fun, don't you think? 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Dave Van Wallaghen [mailto:w8...@comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 8:53 AM To: Bill Johnson Cc: 'Doug Joyce'; 'Jack Smith'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Good Morning Bill, There has been a lot of back and forth on this, so let me share the direction I'm going to take on this. I ordered red, yellow and green LED's made by Luxen that all have very similar specs. My guess is that they will be significantly less bright than the existing red LED's and that we would have to play with a resistor pack value that would provide the happy medium of brightness and current draw (and not stressing the LM78L05 as Jack has pointed out). Doug has already experimented a little with this and found 470 ohms gave him the brightness he desired. At this point, I'm not sure what the current draw would be or if that is feasible with the LM78L05. I believe that I might be able to come up with the right combination of LED's and resistor packs to obtain a decent level of brightness with uniformity between the LED's without compromising the design with an exorbitant current draw. As I said yesterday, I will take current measurements before I start and make comparisons during the experimentation, hopefully arriving at a state that provides the happy medium discussed above. I should have most of the parts in here sometime early next week. My desire is to have the least impact possible on the W1 design and minimize the impact on the builder as well. And hopefully we can provide this solution to new as well as existing units. Then again, I may be all wet here ;-) I guess the worst case is that I have to buy another W1 from Elecraft ;-) 73, Dave W8FGU Bill Johnson wrote: It seems we need to find a set of colored LED's that give similar output as the reds With the research done so far, doesn't look at that likely. I wonder if there are other resources. I wonder if a resistor pack of a slightly higher value than 470 might be a better compromise and change the value of the SWR reds so they won't draw more than the others. This would help reduce power draw. 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods -Original Message- From: Doug Joyce [mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca] Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:40 PM To: Bill Johnson; 'Dave Van Wallaghen'; 'Jack Smith' Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Ken Kopp' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Leds for W1 Bill: I've done some further testing and believe it's going to take increasing the current to approx 6 to 7 ma to get the new coloured LEDs to be bright enough. That would involve reducing the 2.2 Ks to approx 470 ohms and finding a source for a suitable resistor pack. At this higher current the red LEDs are still brighter than the other colours and there is no easy way to separately control the current to individual colours. There are also a number of other things to check such as the ability of the U3 regulator to handle the increased current. Battery life will also be reduced and perhaps this coloured version needs to be run from a wall wart. 73 Doug, VE3MV - Original Message - The Professional version does not have this message __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdies
I have had success in eliminating birdies using Waynes new program. I think the existing approach is sufficent in that you only have to do it once/birdie. So its no big deal. As Wayne noted some birdies requie more than one shift and its not clear [to me] when to shift up or down. Would guess with time I will understand that. So help is on th way!!! Larry moore w6od Robert Dorchuck wrote: I recently installed the KRX3 and seem to have some of the birdie problems others have noted, the loudest on 14.186.7 (S3). The others are masked when connected to an antenna and are not a problem. I have tried adjusting the cables and saw some improvement but it will not be a solution as Wayne noted. Has anyone tried the test firmware that Wayne mentioned a week or so ago? Thanks all, Bob W6VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Birdies-tp2361933p2364647.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m
Svend, Chack the bandpass filters. Especially check the capasitor values in the BP-filters. I bet that you will find the soultion of your problem there. 73! Hans / LA2MOA 2009/2/21 Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk Hi all. My K2 is working fine on 160m, 80m, 30m and 20m but not 40m. I have switched between ANT1 and 2. RANT is OFF. Nothing helps... What went wrong for me? Any settings to check or could it be a hardware failure? 73, Svend OZ7UV TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr. - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/ Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online - Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på http://mail.tdconline.dk/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m
Svend, Is this a newly built K2, or one that used to work and has now failed. Do you have the K60XV option? If it is newly built, check to be certain you have installed C6 (on the bottom of the RF Board near the rear panel) correctly. Its leads should be in the outer holes of the set of 3 holes between L1 and L2. If you installed the headers for the K60XV option (or the rework eliminators), you must insert the board into J15. Does it receive on 60 meters? If this is a K2 that worked before, there is likely some failure in either in the Bandpass Filter or the Low Pass Filter. Does it transmit on 40 meters? 73, Don W3FPR Svend Spanget wrote: Hi all. My K2 is working fine on 160m, 80m, 30m and 20m but not 40m. I have switched between ANT1 and 2. RANT is OFF. Nothing helps... What went wrong for me? Any settings to check or could it be a hardware failure? 73, Svend OZ7UV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Just finished building my K3
Dear group, Just finished building my K3! It took me about 10 hours from start to finish. I ran into a few problems, but thankfully nothing major. My K3 is a 100w version with sub receiver and full complement of filters on both sub and main receivers. A transverter board and voice recorder module are also installed. Lessons learned: 1. Don't drink while putting this kit together. without realizing, I ended up getting pretty drunk during the course of assembly just sipping on beer. Mistakes can and will happen when you're tired AND drunk. 2. Screw drivers and circuit board traces don't mix. see item number 1. (My screwdriver slipped when I was trying to pry the sub receiver board out of its metal casing and scratched a few of the small traces. Fortunately, no major damage and the circuit remained in tact. Also, those damn holes on the sub receiver board don't line up with the metal shield. This is why I had to take the thing out in the first place and sand the nubs down with a dremel.) 3. Read the assembly manual at least 3 times from cover to cover before you even start building. It really helped knowing ahead of time what's expected. 4. Have a small pair of diagonal cutters. Cutting jumper W1 and W2 for the transverter board was a pain in the ass. I had to go to the store at 10PM last night to look for cuticle cutters (I should have listened to you Gary). 5. Don't work tired!!! I kept pushing myself to finish last night, and while I didn't complete it I ended up making mistakes. I forgot to install the voice recorder and ended up having to take the front panel off again. 6. Sleep for 8 hours before resuming assembly if you have to stop assembly at night. I went to bed at 4AM and woke up at 9AM to finish. While I was cleaning up, I pulled the power plug for my PS out of the power strip. I wasn't paying attention and my thumb and pointer finger hit the two power plug terminals WHILE it was still half way into the socket. Suffice it to say, I didn't need coffee this morning and my skin is still tingling. It's no fun getting electrocuted. Anyway, this thing works great now that I have everything calibrated and installed. Thanks to all the folks out there that took the time to answer my questions and help me out. Gary Smith - special thanks to you for the assembly tips and the filters. 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:59:38 +, Dave Van Wallaghen wrote: Has anyone else using DM780 with a K3 noticed that very strong psk sigs produce other images on the waterfall? It is about 2k further up or down from the original signal and can be decoded on the screen although weaker. I'm also running LP-Pan but don't notice the images on the panadapter. Also check your NB settings, I've found that the more aggressively the noise blanker is working the more likely the ghost signals are to appear. OTOH, I have not yet gotten to the AF mods so I am probably seeing a combination of factors. 73, Steve AD7OG K3 S/N 1544 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m
Don, thank you for answering! This K2 used to work, but after I got my K3, it was left in the background... It will tune to a good SWR. The K60XV option is not installed. 73 Svend, OZ7UV - Original meddelelse - Fra: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com Til: Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Dato: Lør, 21. feb 2009 19:57 Emne: Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m Svend, Is this a newly built K2, or one that used to work and has now failed. Do you have the K60XV option? If it is newly built, check to be certain you have installed C6 (on the bottom of the RF Board near the rear panel) correctly. Its leads should be in the outer holes of the set of 3 holes between L1 and L2. If you installed the headers for the K60XV option (or the rework eliminators), you must insert the board into J15. Does it receive on 60 meters? If this is a K2 that worked before, there is likely some failure in either in the Bandpass Filter or the Low Pass Filter. Does it transmit on 40 meters? 73, Don W3FPR Svend Spanget wrote: Hi all. My K2 is working fine on 160m, 80m, 30m and 20m but not 40m. I have switched between ANT1 and 2. RANT is OFF. Nothing helps... What went wrong for me? Any settings to check or could it be a hardware failure? 73, Svend OZ7UV TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr. - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/ Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online - Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på http://mail.tdconline.dk/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Just finished building my K3
Its quarter to three, Theres no one in the place cept K3 and me So set em up joe I got a little story I think you oughtta know... 73, Drew AF2Z On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:10:15 -0500, James KC2UEE wrote: Dear group, Just finished building my K3! It took me about 10 hours from start to finish. I ran into a few problems, but thankfully nothing major. My K3 is a 100w version with sub receiver and full complement of filters on both sub and main receivers. A transverter board and voice recorder module are also installed. Lessons learned: 1. Don't drink while putting this kit together. without realizing, I ended up getting pretty drunk during the course of assembly just sipping on beer. Mistakes can and will happen when you're tired AND drunk. 2. Screw drivers and circuit board traces don't mix. see item number 1. (My screwdriver slipped when I was trying to pry the sub receiver board out of its metal casing and scratched a few of the small traces. Fortunately, no major damage and the circuit remained in tact. Also, those damn holes on the sub receiver board don't line up with the metal shield. This is why I had to take the thing out in the first place and sand the nubs down with a dremel.) 3. Read the assembly manual at least 3 times from cover to cover before you even start building. It really helped knowing ahead of time what's expected. 4. Have a small pair of diagonal cutters. Cutting jumper W1 and W2 for the transverter board was a pain in the ass. I had to go to the store at 10PM last night to look for cuticle cutters (I should have listened to you Gary). 5. Don't work tired!!! I kept pushing myself to finish last night, and while I didn't complete it I ended up making mistakes. I forgot to install the voice recorder and ended up having to take the front panel off again. 6. Sleep for 8 hours before resuming assembly if you have to stop assembly at night. I went to bed at 4AM and woke up at 9AM to finish. While I was cleaning up, I pulled the power plug for my PS out of the power strip. I wasn't paying attention and my thumb and pointer finger hit the two power plug terminals WHILE it was still half way into the socket. Suffice it to say, I didn't need coffee this morning and my skin is still tingling. It's no fun getting electrocuted. Anyway, this thing works great now that I have everything calibrated and installed. Thanks to all the folks out there that took the time to answer my questions and help me out. Gary Smith - special thanks to you for the assembly tips and the filters. 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 deaf on 40 m
Svend, In that case, try the Cheap and Dirty Signal Tracing in the K2 that you can download from the Elecraft website Builder's Resource page then Troubleshooting Tips link. The direct link is http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/SigTr/K2%20Cheap%20%27n%20Dirty%20Signal%20Tracing.pdf. That should reveal whether the problem is with the bandpass filter or the low pass filter. Once you have located the problem area, check the soldering - yes, even though it used to work, there could still be an unsoldered or poorly soldered connection that has finally developed enough oxidation to now fail. If the soldering is good, the next item to check is the relay K1 if the problem is in the bandpass filter or K12 in the low pass filter. Set the band to 40 meters and check for continuity directly across the relay contacts with your ohmmeter. The relays are latching, so they can be checked after power is removed from the K2. The schematic shows the relays in their non-selected position (i.e. when 40 meters is selected, there should be continuity between K1 pins 3 and 4, but not pins 2 and 3). 73, Don W3FPR Svend Spanget wrote: Don, thank you for answering! This K2 used to work, but after I got my K3, it was left in the background... It will tune to a good SWR. The K60XV option is not installed. 73 Svend, OZ7UV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3]PSK31 DM780
Thanks for the suggestion Steve. I usually default the NB and NR off until I need them and I rarely use them. But that makes sense. As an update to this topic, first, thanks to everyone here who made suggestions. It was a great learning experience for me. I did go back and adjust the input to my soundcard. It is on a laptop and the only input is a mic connection. Looking at the setup on the computer, I found that the gain was turned up all the way at 100% with some special processing enabled for voice. I turned it down to about 35% and disabled the special processing on the line. I also found that my CONFIG: LIN OUT was set at 20! I don't know when I did that, but I went through the setup of my soundcard as Jim described by starting out with everything at a minimum. I then brought the levels up until I could see decoding with DM780. I then wound up with the CONFIG: LIN OUT setting at 4 with good decoding and no noticeable harmonics on the screen. On my DM780 waterfall, the noise level is just visible on the bottom of the Spectrum Grid window and weak signals are now fairly visible in the waterfall. The audio level monitor on DM780 now shows in the low 20% range as opposed to the upper 60's and occasional Overload as it did before. As a test, I then worked back to back Italian stations on 40m at 30 watts. Works for me :-) Thanks again 73, Dave W8FGU Steve Ward wrote: On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:59:38 +, Dave Van Wallaghen wrote: Has anyone else using DM780 with a K3 noticed that very strong psk sigs produce other images on the waterfall? It is about 2k further up or down from the original signal and can be decoded on the screen although weaker. I'm also running LP-Pan but don't notice the images on the panadapter. Also check your NB settings, I've found that the more aggressively the noise blanker is working the more likely the ghost signals are to appear. OTOH, I have not yet gotten to the AF mods so I am probably seeing a combination of factors. 73, Steve AD7OG K3 S/N 1544 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Kx-1 ---help
I'm moving through the bands just fine until it is supposed to nove to 14 mhz. Instead it shows as 13? This must be something simple. Did not have this problem last night. Thanks Russ Kd7mpk -- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld Russ Garrett Bullivant|Houser|Bailey PC 805 Broadway Street, Suite 400 Vancouver, WA 98660-3310 mailto:russ.garr...@bullivant.com direct dial: 360.737.3363 - fax: 360.695.8504 http://www.bullivant.com Seattle . Vancouver . Portland . Sacramento . San Francisco . Las Vegas mail.bullivant.com made the following annotations - Please be advised that, unless expressly stated otherwise, any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this e-mail, including attachments, is not intended to be used by any person for the purpose of avoiding any penalties that may be imposed by the Internal Revenue Service. * This e-mail is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and contains information belonging to Bullivant Houser Bailey, which is confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking of any action in reliance on the contents of this e-mail information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment?
Elecraft: my vote is yes, please! As Bill mentioned, there is a balance control only if you are using the subreciever. I also have a hearing imbalance and would greatly appreciate a left/right balance control that operates regardless of whether the subreceiver is on or off. With subreceiver on, the operation of it would be as it is now -- either balance or subreceiver volume depending on a menu selection. With the subreceiver off or absent it would be left/right balance. 73 and thanks for listening Carl WS7L K3 #486 -Original Message- Hello, this is Karsten, DL1QC, I´m slightly handicaped in hearing on left ear, so I hear CW with K3 always a litte bit out of the middle. Is there an option or procedure to adjust the level of the stereo phones left/right separately? vy 73 es tnx for all de Karsten - DL1QC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Speaker vibrations and other oddities
Just built my K3. first, the speaker vibrates even with the foam donut on the end of the shield. also, the sub receiver doesn't seem to have the same volume output as the main even if both RF and AF pots are set the same. Suggestions? 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kx-1 ---help
Hi Russ, What you see when changing bands is the MHz value that you're tuned to on each band. You must have the VFO tuned below 14 MHz on 20 m. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 21, 2009, at 1:08 PM, Garrett, Russ wrote: I'm moving through the bands just fine until it is supposed to nove to 14 mhz. Instead it shows as 13? This must be something simple. Did not have this problem last night. --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 phones - separate left/right volume adjustment?
I also have a slight difference between my two ears, and have the K3, but no SubRx (yet!). I found a very nice pair of stereo headphones at Radio Shack that have separate volume controls. I'm not sure of the part number-- the only number I can find on my set is 06A08. MFJ makes a monaural set (MFJ-392B) with separate volume controls. Both of these headsets have worked well for me; however I prefer the stereo sound that can utilize the AFX in the K3. 73, Chuck Guenther NI0C K3 s/n 1061 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement
Hi gang, The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (Sunday, 2/22/09) at 1800Z. We will start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed. The net control is in western Oregon, but we will need a good east coast or midwest station to relay a few west coast signals that may be too close to net control. Join us if you need a break from the DX contest or for any other reason. See you there. 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] ZN-QRP Paddle
Just posted a review on eham of my new ZN-QRP paddle. Very, very nicely executed. Form follows function and it functions beautifully. http://www.eham.net/reviews/review/78283 I'm completely spoiled now with this beauty plugged into my K3/10. 73 jim ab3cv (just a very satisfied customer) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Kx-1 ---help
Thanks. I rotated the vfo first thinking that was it. Didn't rotate it far enough. Now I'm back. Thanks Wayne. -- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld Russ Garrett Bullivant|Houser|Bailey PC 805 Broadway Street, Suite 400 Vancouver, WA 98660-3310 mailto:russ.garr...@bullivant.com direct dial: 360.737.3363 - fax: 360.695.8504 http://www.bullivant.com Seattle . Vancouver . Portland . Sacramento . San Francisco . Las Vegas - Original Message - From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com To: Garrett, Russ Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sat Feb 21 13:28:20 2009 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kx-1 ---help Hi Russ, What you see when changing bands is the MHz value that you're tuned to on each band. You must have the VFO tuned below 14 MHz on 20 m. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 21, 2009, at 1:08 PM, Garrett, Russ wrote: I'm moving through the bands just fine until it is supposed to nove to 14 mhz. Instead it shows as 13? This must be something simple. Did not have this problem last night. --- http://www.elecraft.com mail.bullivant.com made the following annotations - Please be advised that, unless expressly stated otherwise, any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this e-mail, including attachments, is not intended to be used by any person for the purpose of avoiding any penalties that may be imposed by the Internal Revenue Service. * This e-mail is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and contains information belonging to Bullivant Houser Bailey, which is confidential and/or legally privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking of any action in reliance on the contents of this e-mail information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 sub receiver settings questions
Dear group, I've been playing around with the sub receiver with a goal to SWL. The way I have my K3 set up is to have the general receive module on the sub. The main has a 13k, 6k, 2.7k, and .5k filter in FL1, Fl2, FL3, and FL4 respectively. The sub receiver has a 13k, 2.7k, and .5k in FL1, FL3, and Fl4 slots. Now, when listening to the sub receiver, I've noticed that I cannot change filter settings for the sub unless I go into B-SUB. When I go into B-SUB however, the audio level drops quite a bit, even though I'm still listening to the sub receiver and the RF gain hasn't changed. I'm not sure how to best explain it, but you can definitely tell that you've gone to B-SUB mode as the volume drops. This does not change if the main receiver's RF and AF settings match the sub receiver. Is there a way to link the main receiver filter controls to the sub receiver And what gives with the lowered audio signal when switching to B-SUB? 73, James KC2UEE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Speaker vibrations and other oddities
Jim, Did you set the sub preamp to on? If not, you would have a different volume level in the sub versus the main RX. 73, Bob K3UL__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] CW to Data for RTTY
I'm trying some new things and I've run into a problem. I'm trying to use the CW to Data for RTTY feature and I don't get any results. If I'm on CW, I can send CW via the paddles, and if I try DATA/PSK D (31 bPS) the CW to PSK31 works correctly (outputs PSK 31). If I try to set up DATA/AFSK A (45 bPS), I get nothing. Going back to the other two configurations, it works properly so I know the paddles are working. This is the first time I've tried it so I can't say, It worked before but not now. Is there a CONFIG setting that I've missed? The receive decoder is working properly on RTTY and I'm able to decode both on the VFO B display and the K3 Utility's terminal screen. It's just the CW to RTTY sending that's got me corn-fused I hope someone will say, Oh, yeah, I had that same problem and I _ I need to know what goes in that blank. Thanks and 73, Jim - K5LAD It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam Levenson = My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW to Data for RTTY
Jim, You need to use FSK-D, not AFSK-A, to do CW-to-RTTY. AFSK-A is an audio-transmit mode, like DATA-A, while FSK-D is for direct input from either a computer or the K3's keyer paddle. This is covered pretty well in the owner's manual, around page 34 (CW-to-DATA). 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 21, 2009, at 3:13 PM, jpk5...@cox.net wrote: I'm trying some new things and I've run into a problem. I'm trying to use the CW to Data for RTTY feature and I don't get any results. If I'm on CW, I can send CW via the paddles, and if I try DATA/PSK D (31 bPS) the CW to PSK31 works correctly (outputs PSK 31). If I try to set up DATA/AFSK A (45 bPS), I get nothing. Going back to the other two configurations, it works properly so I know the paddles are working. This is the first time I've tried it so I can't say, It worked before but not now. Is there a CONFIG setting that I've missed? The receive decoder is working properly on RTTY and I'm able to decode both on the VFO B display and the K3 Utility's terminal screen. It's just the CW to RTTY sending that's got me corn-fused I hope someone will say, Oh, yeah, I had that same problem and I _ I need to know what goes in that blank. Thanks and 73, Jim - K5LAD It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam Levenson = My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW to Data for RTTY
Thanks Wayne -- That's the area in the book I'd been looking at and I thought I'd tried them all but obviously not. Sure enough, that works. Thanks for you help. Perhaps now I can get those guys at K5D on RTTY. Hey, you do good work! 73, Jim - K5LAD On 21 Feb 2009 at 15:21, wayne burdick wrote: Jim, You need to use FSK-D, not AFSK-A, to do CW-to-RTTY. AFSK-A is an audio-transmit mode, like DATA-A, while FSK-D is for direct input from either a computer or the K3's keyer paddle. This is covered pretty well in the owner's manual, around page 34 (CW-to-DATA). 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 21, 2009, at 3:13 PM, jpk5...@cox.net wrote: I'm trying some new things and I've run into a problem. I'm trying to use the CW to Data for RTTY feature and I don't get any results. If I'm on CW, I can send CW via the paddles, and if I try DATA/PSK D (31 bPS) the CW to PSK31 works correctly (outputs PSK 31). If I try to set up DATA/AFSK A (45 bPS), I get nothing. Going back to the other two configurations, it works properly so I know the paddles are working. This is the first time I've tried it so I can't say, It worked before but not now. Is there a CONFIG setting that I've missed? The receive decoder is working properly on RTTY and I'm able to decode both on the VFO B display and the K3 Utility's terminal screen. It's just the CW to RTTY sending that's got me corn-fused I hope someone will say, Oh, yeah, I had that same problem and I _ I need to know what goes in that blank. Thanks and 73, Jim - K5LAD It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam Levenson = My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --- http://www.elecraft.com It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam Levenson = My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] CW to RTTY
I have firmware version 2.67/1.96. In this version it is still not possible to use CW to RTTY when using SPLIT. Has this been fixed in the newer firmware version? I now use XIT, but this is not so powerfull. 73's, Evert PA2KW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] ZN-QRP Paddle
for others that may have been as confused as I was, here are some additional links: http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/7169 http://www.n3znkeys.com/ just a confused link follower g -- GB 73 KA5OAI Sam Morgan Jim Miller wrote: Just posted a review on eham of my new ZN-QRP paddle. Very, very nicely executed. Form follows function and it functions beautifully. http://www.eham.net/reviews/review/78283 I'm completely spoiled now with this beauty plugged into my K3/10. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] (no subject)
I just received the W2ENY headset. After trying them out I was very disappointed. This headset is a Frisby brand FHP-100. After doing a bit of research this headset can be purchased online for under $10.00. He has added the conversion mic cables that go to various radios. He sells them for $50.00. The MIC in this headset is not communication quality. The response is far too wide for communications work. If you wanted to get an equalizer or mess with your mic settings you might get it to work well. Otherwise your audio is going to sound like mush. The headphones are not very comfortable. I cannot see using this headset for long durations. His website advertises noise cancelling and there is none for either the headphones of the mic. This is a headset designed for computer and web type applications. Hopefully I will be able to send it back for a refund. If not one of the kids can use it on their computers. I also purchased two of the footswitch options. They are made by Treadlite and are good quality. They come with an 1/8 inch plug on it which I will change over to an rca. Mike W0MU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W2ENY headset
Mike: Thank you for your report. I would have mailed off an order tomorrow. Thanks again. Now will hold off. I bought the Warren Gregoire headset, very comfortable, good reports on sound quality. BUT it is not stereo, therefor the AFX in the K3 is not working. I do have stereo speakers that work well. Using the Elecraft MH-2 (good quality) and Sony headphones, cheep and not very good. Still looking for a good head set for the K3. Next step? thanks, Ty, W1TF, K2 #696 --- On Sat, 2/21/09, W0MU Mike Fatchett w...@w0mu.com wrote: From: W0MU Mike Fatchett w...@w0mu.com Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: 'reflector cq-contest' cq-cont...@contesting.com Date: Saturday, February 21, 2009, 7:28 PM I just received the W2ENY headset. After trying them out I was very disappointed. This headset is a Frisby brand FHP-100. After doing a bit of research this headset can be purchased online for under $10.00. He has added the conversion mic cables that go to various radios. He sells them for $50.00. The MIC in this headset is not communication quality. The response is far too wide for communications work. If you wanted to get an equalizer or mess with your mic settings you might get it to work well. Otherwise your audio is going to sound like mush. The headphones are not very comfortable. I cannot see using this headset for long durations. His website advertises noise cancelling and there is none for either the headphones of the mic. This is a headset designed for computer and web type applications. Hopefully I will be able to send it back for a refund. If not one of the kids can use it on their computers. I also purchased two of the footswitch options. They are made by Treadlite and are good quality. They come with an 1/8 inch plug on it which I will change over to an rca. Mike W0MU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
I don't think you said which model you purchased. Just out of curiosity, I checked the eHam reviews -- all pretty good, and looked at the info on his website. While I've never touched one of these, he advertises the microphone element as being wide range (100Hz-16Khz) , so that shouldn't have been much of a surprise if you were looking for nicely pinched communications audio out of the box. There is no advertising or specification reference to noise cancellation in the headset, and the mic is likely typical of most ported acoustic noise cancellation mics. It's apparently acoustic (given the pricing) and not electronic, probably doesn't work miracles, but probably does lower the level of extraneous background noise a bit. Doesn't sound like what one gets for $50 was misrepresented ... Grant/NQ5T On Feb 21, 2009, at 6:28 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote: I just received the W2ENY headset. The MIC in this headset is not communication quality. The response is far too wide for communications work. His website advertises noise cancelling and there is none for either the headphones of the mic. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2ENY headset
I like these from Micro Innovations: http://tinyurl.com/d8rsc4 I run them on the K3 with the EQ set flat and get unsolicited compliments on the audio all the time. I've had them for 6 months so far and they seem durable enough. For less that $20, you can't go wrong. I wear them backwards so that the mic ends up on the left side because the radio is to my left and the computer is in front of me. I use a footswitch for PTT. Rob NV5E Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:56:08 -0800 From: w...@yahoo.com To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] W2ENY headset Mike: Thank you for your report. I would have mailed off an order tomorrow. Thanks again. Now will hold off. I bought the Warren Gregoire headset, very comfortable, good reports on sound quality. BUT it is not stereo, therefor the AFX in the K3 is not working. I do have stereo speakers that work well. Using the Elecraft MH-2 (good quality) and Sony headphones, cheep and not very good. Still looking for a good head set for the K3. Next step? thanks, Ty, W1TF, K2 #696 --- On Sat, 2/21/09, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote: From: W0MU Mike Fatchett Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: 'reflector cq-contest' Date: Saturday, February 21, 2009, 7:28 PM I just received the W2ENY headset. After trying them out I was very disappointed. This headset is a Frisby brand FHP-100. After doing a bit of research this headset can be purchased online for under $10.00. He has added the conversion mic cables that go to various radios. He sells them for $50.00. The MIC in this headset is not communication quality. The response is far too wide for communications work. If you wanted to get an equalizer or mess with your mic settings you might get it to work well. Otherwise your audio is going to sound like mush. The headphones are not very comfortable. I cannot see using this headset for long durations. His website advertises noise cancelling and there is none for either the headphones of the mic. This is a headset designed for computer and web type applications. Hopefully I will be able to send it back for a refund. If not one of the kids can use it on their computers. I also purchased two of the footswitch options. They are made by Treadlite and are good quality. They come with an 1/8 inch plug on it which I will change over to an rca. Mike W0MU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html _ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)
Sorry about that. This is the premium headset A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may never get over. Ben Franklin -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Grant Youngman Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 6:03 PM To: Elecraft Discussion List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (no subject) I don't think you said which model you purchased. Just out of curiosity, I checked the eHam reviews -- all pretty good, and looked at the info on his website. While I've never touched one of these, he advertises the microphone element as being wide range (100Hz-16Khz) , so that shouldn't have been much of a surprise if you were looking for nicely pinched communications audio out of the box. There is no advertising or specification reference to noise cancellation in the headset, and the mic is likely typical of most ported acoustic noise cancellation mics. It's apparently acoustic (given the pricing) and not electronic, probably doesn't work miracles, but probably does lower the level of extraneous background noise a bit. Doesn't sound like what one gets for $50 was misrepresented ... Grant/NQ5T On Feb 21, 2009, at 6:28 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote: I just received the W2ENY headset. The MIC in this headset is not communication quality. The response is far too wide for communications work. His website advertises noise cancelling and there is none for either the headphones of the mic. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2ENY headset
Headset... headset... that's so I can hear cw better... what's that thing in front for? *LOL* duckin, and runnin for the safety of the paddles.. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy From: roblitesp...@hotmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:08:51 -0600 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W2ENY headset I like these from Micro Innovations: http://tinyurl.com/d8rsc4 I run them on the K3 with the EQ set flat and get unsolicited compliments on the audio all the time. I've had them for 6 months so far and they seem durable enough. For less that $20, you can't go wrong. I wear them backwards so that the mic ends up on the left side because the radio is to my left and the computer is in front of me. I use a footswitch for PTT. Rob NV5E _ Windows Live™ Hotmail®…more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howitworks_022009__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Just finished building my K3
1. Don't drink while putting this kit together. without realizing, I ended up getting pretty drunk during the course of assembly just sipping on beer. Mistakes can and will happen when you're tired AND drunk. Agreed - That's the down side. On the plus side, if you attach the ground clip from your antistatic mat to the beer can, this will ensure you are always grounded (given proper to generous consumption rates). As they say, one can never be too well grounded. ;-) I completed my new K3 last Monday and was in such an excited hurry I forgot to drink alltogether. But somehow everything came together and I have made hundreds of QSO's, including this weekend in the ARRL DX CW contest. The signals are very strong to JA, BD, KH and even though I only have the 2.7 roofing filter that comes with the K3, performance is 100%. Contacts are with DX and Alaska/Hawaii only, report is RST and state for US stations, RST and power for the Dx. [Elecraft] Just finished building my K3 James Sarte kc2uee at gmail.com Sat Feb 21 14:10:15 EST 2009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Just finished building my K3
Don, My beer cans were large, but not well grounded... I have the 2.7k filter for both receivers; didn't bother with the 2.8's, and so far no complaints. I ordered matched filters for diversity and all 5 pole filters were -.73 with no deviation. (sweet) Now I just have to figure out if I can adjust filters for the sub with the main controls instead of having to go into the SUB-B menu. I really wish I had some chocolate though... craving chocolate now. Woohoo, thpppt, and 73, James too tired to type yet too wired to stay coherent any longer Sarte -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Rasmussen Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 9:00 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Just finished building my K3 1. Don't drink while putting this kit together. without realizing, I ended up getting pretty drunk during the course of assembly just sipping on beer. Mistakes can and will happen when you're tired AND drunk. Agreed - That's the down side. On the plus side, if you attach the ground clip from your antistatic mat to the beer can, this will ensure you are always grounded (given proper to generous consumption rates). As they say, one can never be too well grounded. ;-) I completed my new K3 last Monday and was in such an excited hurry I forgot to drink alltogether. But somehow everything came together and I have made hundreds of QSO's, including this weekend in the ARRL DX CW contest. The signals are very strong to JA, BD, KH and even though I only have the 2.7 roofing filter that comes with the K3, performance is 100%. Contacts are with DX and Alaska/Hawaii only, report is RST and state for US stations, RST and power for the Dx. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Just finished building my K3
James Sarte wrote: Now I just have to figure out if I can adjust filters for the sub with the main controls instead of having to go into the SUB-B menu. How about A/B, adjust filters, A/B? This seems to work here. You can set the filters using the main controls, then the A/B transfers them to the sub and brings back the original main settings, frequency and mode. There is one exception to this (is this a bug or a missing feature?): the RTTY dual-tone filter. It seems that the only way to have the DTF set differently on the subRX than on the main is to use BSET. After you set or clear the DTF in BSET using the DUAL PB button, the change also applies to the main RX (this does not appear to happen with other filter settings), but you can reverse it with the DUAL PB button without affecting the subRX, so you can have DTF on in one VFO and off in the other. However, when you do an A/B or turn the subRX off, the previous VFO B DTF setting is lost and it reverts to the same DTF setting as the main RX. 73, Rich VE3KI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, It was a nice, sunny week here on the mountain. There is still snow but the sun helps. I have received a couple reports concerning 40 meters near net time but they are not promising. The time change next week may help so please keep sending reception reports to me. I will reinstate the 40 meter net soon though because my fingers are getting itchy! Even if it is just me and hopefully one other that is OK. I can always read while I am sending my CQ ECN. Hopefully your dawn skies are clear because Comet Lulin is near its closest approach to earth. It is in the morning sky in Virgo. Here is a sky map URL for you: http://www.spaceweather.com/images2009/20feb09/skymap_north_lulin.gif?PHPSESSID=cpobuv33pg4c33t242fdfd6r57 Binoculars show it clearly if your skies are transparent and dark. If your eyes are good and the skies are too you will not need optical aid. Please join us tomorrow evening. 1) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help) Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz Stay warm, Kevin. KD5ONS - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Command to read KAT3 settings
Hi, Is there a way to read the L and C settings of the KAT3 after auto-tune cycle? Either computer command or control panel readout would work for me. 73, Marian __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW to RTTY
Evert, Are you sure you are engaging FSK-D rather than FSK-A? Also, if you are trying to use an external keyer, it won't work. You have to use the internal keyer. I've been working RTTY split, using paddle input, with no problem and through all the updates. Dave W7AQK - Original Message From: Evert Bakker (PA2KW) To: 'Elecraft Discussion List' Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 4:36 PM Subject: [Elecraft] CW to RTTY I have firmware version 2.67/1.96. In this version it is still not possible to use CW to RTTY when using SPLIT. Has this been fixed in the newer firmware version? I now use XIT, but this is not so powerfull. 73's, Evert PA2KW -- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Command to read KAT3 settings
Sure, Marian. Just set CONFIG:KAT3 to LCSET, then exit the menu. Next, tap ATU TUNE. Instead of starting ATU tuning, this will display the L and C settings (Ct/Ca configuration and C value on VFO A, L on VFO B). In fact you can then tap ANT to change Ct/Ca, and rotate VFO A and B to change C and L, respectively, if you want to manually adjust the match. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 21, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Marian Morys wrote: Hi, Is there a way to read the L and C settings of the KAT3 after auto-tune cycle? Either computer command or control panel readout would work for me. 73, Marian --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
