Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-09 Thread Alexey Kats
"What Descartes  did was a good step. You have added much several ways, and
especially in taking the colours of thin plates into philosophical
consideration. If I have seen a little further it is by standing on the
shoulders of Giants." (Isaac Newton)

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 3:31 PM, David Cutter  wrote:

> I don't recall that from his biography, I'll have to read it again.
> Interesting.
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
> > Hi Kevin,
> >
> > Was not Maxwell that condensed the hard to understand original theory.
> > Was some his disciples, aka "The Maxwellians," that finished the theory
> > in the present form.  FitzGerald, Lodge, and Heavyside plus others.
> >
> > Am just now reading "The Maxwellians" that has this story.
> >
> > 73, tom n4zpt
> >
> >
> >
> > On 3/6/2011 5:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
> >> I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations in
> >> twenty unknowns down to just four of them.  The quaternions he used
> >> initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he
> >> needed to get them into vector form.  Heaviside did a good job but how
> do
> >> you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations?  What
> >> has been lost in the translation?
> >>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-09 Thread Kevin Rock
There was a group which disliked his use of quaternions so he was forced  
to rewrite the system into other systems.  Most of the work was carried  
out by others but for him to publish he needed peer review so he caved  
into the larger group.  I am reading his original work from 1873 and  
finding it very enlightening.  Even though I have studied the  
Heaviside-Gibb's version of the Maxwell equations many times the  
quaternions he used in the original paper were very hard to find.  Luckily  
they are proliferating online these days.
Kevin.  KD5ONS


On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 15:31:18 -0800, David Cutter   
wrote:

> I don't recall that from his biography, I'll have to read it again.
> Interesting.
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
>> Hi Kevin,
>>
>> Was not Maxwell that condensed the hard to understand original theory.
>> Was some his disciples, aka "The Maxwellians," that finished the theory
>> in the present form.  FitzGerald, Lodge, and Heavyside plus others.
>>
>> Am just now reading "The Maxwellians" that has this story.
>>
>> 73, tom n4zpt
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/6/2011 5:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
>>> I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations  
>>> in
>>> twenty unknowns down to just four of them.  The quaternions he used
>>> initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he
>>> needed to get them into vector form.  Heaviside did a good job but how  
>>> do
>>> you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations?  What
>>> has been lost in the translation?
>>>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-09 Thread David Cutter
I don't recall that from his biography, I'll have to read it again. 
Interesting.

David
G3UNA


> Hi Kevin,
>
> Was not Maxwell that condensed the hard to understand original theory.
> Was some his disciples, aka "The Maxwellians," that finished the theory
> in the present form.  FitzGerald, Lodge, and Heavyside plus others.
>
> Am just now reading "The Maxwellians" that has this story.
>
> 73, tom n4zpt
>
>
>
> On 3/6/2011 5:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
>> I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations in
>> twenty unknowns down to just four of them.  The quaternions he used
>> initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he
>> needed to get them into vector form.  Heaviside did a good job but how do
>> you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations?  What
>> has been lost in the translation?
>>  Kevin.  KD5ONS
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
Ok Don, I'll take a looksy and see if anything is floating around in there.

73,

Jeff

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 17:12, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>  Jeff,
>
> Certainly you could try re-seating that board, but I would be more inclined
> to look for something on that board which could cause a short.  Re-seating
> will often correct an open circuit condition, but a short to ground is a
> different animal.  If you find any bits of conductive material floating
> around, that would be suspect.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
>> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
Hi Joe, yes, I actually do have that mod installed (it was done by
Elecraft last time the radio was back to meet it's maker).

Thanks,

-J

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 17:08, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>
> Check the 12V sense mod:
>  http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/KPA3_12V_Sense_Modification_Rev_B.pdf
>
> Symptoms sound exactly like what you describe and I suspect your s/n
> is well before the modification was added to routine production.
>
> 73,
>
>   ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
>> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 16:51, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>>
>>>  Jeff,
>>>
>>> It sounds like the Remote Power ON signal (on the ACC connector) is
>>> becoming
>>> active for some reason or another.  If anything external to the K3 or
>>> internal is pulling ACC pin 8 to ground, the behavior will be as you
>>> describe.  If you have a cable plugged into the ACC connector it should
>>> be
>>> checked for that condition.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:

 Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
 intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
 the front panel power switch).

 I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
 paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
 anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
 started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
 up again.

 Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
 like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
 in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
 the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
 back on.

 I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
 culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.

 Thanks,

 Jeff N6GQ

>>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Jeff,

Certainly you could try re-seating that board, but I would be more 
inclined to look for something on that board which could cause a short.  
Re-seating will often correct an open circuit condition, but a short to 
ground is a different animal.  If you find any bits of conductive 
material floating around, that would be suspect.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>
> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
> reseated? Any other ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.

Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
reseated? Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Jeff

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 16:51, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>  Jeff,
>
> It sounds like the Remote Power ON signal (on the ACC connector) is becoming
> active for some reason or another.  If anything external to the K3 or
> internal is pulling ACC pin 8 to ground, the behavior will be as you
> describe.  If you have a cable plugged into the ACC connector it should be
> checked for that condition.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
>> intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
>> the front panel power switch).
>>
>> I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
>> paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
>> anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
>> started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
>> up again.
>>
>> Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
>> like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
>> in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
>> the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
>> back on.
>>
>> I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
>> culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff N6GQ
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Jeff,

It sounds like the Remote Power ON signal (on the ACC connector) is 
becoming active for some reason or another.  If anything external to the 
K3 or internal is pulling ACC pin 8 to ground, the behavior will be as 
you describe.  If you have a cable plugged into the ACC connector it 
should be checked for that condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
> intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
> the front panel power switch).
>
> I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
> paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
> anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
> started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
> up again.
>
> Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
> like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
> in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
> the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
> back on.
>
> I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
> culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff N6GQ
>
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[Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

2011-03-09 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
the front panel power switch).

I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
up again.

Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
back on.

I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] RFI From SteppIR SDA100 Controller

2011-03-09 Thread Jim Brown
I've been chasing a very strong, very elusive set of drifting birdies. 
They were strongest on 12M, but also were present on 15M and 10M.  
Nothing affected them until I unplugged the power supply for the SDA100, 
at which time they went away, and the overall noise on the band dropped 
by at least 10dB.   This crap radiates  into every antenna I've got.

I've managed to attenuate this crap by at least 20 dB using chokes on 
the cable that runs to the antenna, the rotor cable, and both the 120VAC 
and 33VDC cables from the power supply.

If you've got an SDA100 (that's the newer, higher voltage controller), 
you might want to check this.  15dB is a LOT!  The best way to see 
what's going on is with a panadapter set pretty wide so that you see 
birdies drifting slowly up and down. I'm using a P3.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-09 Thread w2bvh
  Just look it up in "Quantum Electrodynamics for Dummies"

--Lenny W2BVH
>
> ---Original Message---
>
> From: Wayne Burdick
> Date: 3/6/2011 9:47:17 PM
> To: Elecraft
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.
>
> Interesting discussion. Gives me an idea.
>
> We'll soon be announcing a very cool new test instrument (it's the same size
> as our T1 antenna tuner but not related to it in any way). We'll give one of
> these to whoever can suggest, by next Thursday, the most plausible
> alternative to 11-dimensional supersymmetry as the working basis for a
> unified field theory. You may assume a negative cosmological constant and
> cannot impose R-parity. If the Higgs boson is discovered before the new
> product announcement, we'll throw in a spare 9-V battery.
>
> 73.14159...,
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
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>
>


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[Elecraft] K3 Serial # 5244 Arrived Today

2011-03-09 Thread stan levandowski

.one day early!  I opened the boxes to sneak a peek but then put 
them safely away until the painting is done - couple of weeks.

This looks like a typical Elecraft "experience" - to be savored like 
fine brandy and not rushed into like a Budweiser.

I guess this makes me an official K3 owner now.

73,

Stan WB2LQF
KX1-#2411, K2-#6980, K3-#5244
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[Elecraft] Selecting Mic Front/back/line

2011-03-09 Thread Mike Fatchett W0MU
If you are in CW mode you cannot select from front to rear or line in.  
The display does tell you this but only if you are paying attention!  I 
am not sure why the radio cares what mode I am in when I want to change 
this.

Mike W0MU
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Re: [Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

2011-03-09 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
thanks Robert,

I didn´t find American International, but don´t think is an exemption for
the 1650

thanks!
Jorge
CX6VM

-Mensaje original-
De: Wright, Robert [mailto:rwri...@ap.com] 
Enviado el: Miércoles, 09 de Marzo de 2011 08:03 p.m.
Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: RE: [Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

Here is Pelican's baggage chart:
http://www.pelican.com/airline_allowance_large.php

It looks like the 1620 is the biggest case that can be commonly checked
without oversize charges.

73,
Robert Wright
N7ZO

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Diez -
CX6VM
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 1:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

sorry for the off topic, but I need to know about that and here some
friends
maybe can help me.

 

Do you know of a Pelican case that is OK to travel with in American
Airlines?

 

I have a 1650 that seems exceed the dimensions (two bans checked
62in/157cm).

 

They need to be less than 62in lineal.

 

Anyone traveled with a 1650? Did you need to pay extra for it?

 

This is from aa.com  "Checked baggage which is larger than 62 in/157 cm
will
be charged at the rate of $150 per piece."

 

thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-09 Thread w5ov
Joe,

My 43' antenna works very well on 160 and 80 as I have reported. In fact,
it works so well that those DX stations that I work with it are amazed -
quite frankly so am I.

Sorry, but your opinion is just that.

73,

Bob W5OV



>
>  > The 43' length is a convenient non-resonant length - nothing else.
>
> No, 43' is 5/8 wave on 20 meters (984/14.3*0.625 == 43).  That is
> the point (well, 0.64 wave if you want to be precise) that the
> first lobe has maximum radiation in a vertical.  That the 43' or
> or 44' vertical happens to be generally non-resonant in all of the
> HF bands is fortuitous but not necessarily by design.
>
>> I have a 43' vertical with one of AD5X's 160 and 80 matching systems
>> at the base fed with an UN-UN and it works great.
>
> Without base matching and a decent ground system, the 43' vertical is
> terribly inefficient on 160 and 80 meters (substantially less than
> 1/4 wave and extremely reactive) due to very high SWR losses in any
> practical feedline (using coax) length.
>
> One would be much better served to use two radiators, one longer than
> 43' (perhaps 85 feet) for improved efficiency on 160/80 and one shorter
> (perhaps 25 feet) to reduce the substantial amount of RF that is lost
> at take-off angles above the critical angle on 15/12/10 meters, along
> with an automatic tuner at the base of the antenna.
>
> An untuned (un-un fed) 43' vertical is the 21st century equivalent
> of an Isoloop or Gotham vertical ... nothing but snake oil designed
> to fool the unwary, those who don't understand electromagnetics, and
> those who believe in something for nothing.
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 3/8/2011 6:47 PM, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
>> None of these old wive's tales are true.
>>
>> The 43' length is a convenient non-resonant length - nothing else.
>>
>> The balun was chosen originally because the 43' vertical was originally
>> planned to have one or two elevated radials only (making it balanced),
>> and
>> it would load fine with a balun.
>>
>> The problems came to be when full-blown radial systems were attached and
>> station grounds were connected to the radials, which again, were
>> originally intended to be elevated - i.e.; not grounded. What this did
>> was
>> to short one side of the output of the balun to ground. So, when you
>> ground the radials, an UN-UN is preferable and works very well.
>>
>> I have a 43' vertical with one of AD5X's 160 and 80 matching systems at
>> the base fed with an UN-UN and it works great.
>>
>> I use it on all bands - 160 through 10m. Check out the ZL8X online log
>> with my call to see how well it works.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Bob W5OV
>>
>>
>>
>>> I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence
>>> transformer or unun.
>>>
>>> I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length
>>> came about
>>> because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut
>>> stock
>>> with the
>>> least waste to meet shipping limitations.
>>>
>>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>>
>>> On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1
 balun on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive,
 doesn't it?  Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is
 unbalanced.  When you're mating an unbalanced feedline with an
 unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off using an unun rather
 than
 a 4:1 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous,
 albeit
 anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of
 their vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for
 example. But when they add an unun they are then amazed at how the
 antenna allegedly "sprung to life."

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

> Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
> nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
> the right times at the right places.
>
> Thanks to everyone for the help.
>
> --Vernon N7OH
>
> On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RP
> wrote:
>> Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?
>>
>> 73, Ross N4RP
>>
>> On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
>>> At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I
>>> really
>>> need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
>>> radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent
>>> most
>>> of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
>>> myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.
>>> I
>>> studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
>>> found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all
>>

Re: [Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

2011-03-09 Thread Wright, Robert
Here is Pelican's baggage chart:
http://www.pelican.com/airline_allowance_large.php

It looks like the 1620 is the biggest case that can be commonly checked
without oversize charges.

73,
Robert Wright
N7ZO

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Diez -
CX6VM
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 1:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

sorry for the off topic, but I need to know about that and here some
friends
maybe can help me.

 

Do you know of a Pelican case that is OK to travel with in American
Airlines?

 

I have a 1650 that seems exceed the dimensions (two bans checked
62in/157cm).

 

They need to be less than 62in lineal.

 

Anyone traveled with a 1650? Did you need to pay extra for it?

 

This is from aa.com  "Checked baggage which is larger than 62 in/157 cm
will
be charged at the rate of $150 per piece."

 

thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

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[Elecraft] American Airlines Pelican model allowed

2011-03-09 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
sorry for the off topic, but I need to know about that and here some friends
maybe can help me.

 

Do you know of a Pelican case that is OK to travel with in American
Airlines?

 

I have a 1650 that seems exceed the dimensions (two bans checked
62in/157cm).

 

They need to be less than 62in lineal.

 

Anyone traveled with a 1650? Did you need to pay extra for it?

 

This is from aa.com  "Checked baggage which is larger than 62 in/157 cm will
be charged at the rate of $150 per piece."

 

thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

 

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[Elecraft] EQP (Elecraft QSO Party) this weekend

2011-03-09 Thread Wayne Burdick
Please join us for the Elecraft QSO party, 1800z March 12 to 1800z  
March 13. It's open to everyone -- no Elecraft rig required. Complete  
rules can be found at
   http://www.elecraft.com/Awards/eqp_2011.htm

The object is to have fun, work old and new friends, work new S/P/C's  
(States/Provinces/Countries), and optionally collect some Elecraft rig  
serial numbers.

You can also work toward an Elecraft WAS or CC award:

   http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_awards.htm

If you have questions about the rules, please send them to n6kr at  
elecraft dot com.

73,
Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft QSO Party

2011-03-09 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Toby,

It is this weekend, as correctly indicated on some contest calendars.  
I will be officially announcing it later today after we update the web  
links.

Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 9, 2011, at 12:45 PM, Toby Le Rone wrote:

> I had recently looked at the 2010 information for the Elecraft QSO  
> Party.
> The day it was held was the second Saturday in March.  According to  
> that,
> the 2011 one should be on this Saturday.  I haven't found any  
> mention of it
> on the Elecraft site nor the N2CQ QRP contest calendar.
>
> Does anyone know if it is going on this year?
>
> Rem
> -- 
> K6BBQ


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[Elecraft] Elecraft QSO Party

2011-03-09 Thread Toby Le Rone
I had recently looked at the 2010 information for the Elecraft QSO Party.
The day it was held was the second Saturday in March.  According to that,
the 2011 one should be on this Saturday.  I haven't found any mention of it
on the Elecraft site nor the N2CQ QRP contest calendar.

Does anyone know if it is going on this year?

Rem
-- 
K6BBQ
BBQ Ham Radio from Northern California
http://www.youtube.com/user/K6BBQsHamShack
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3 Problem!!

2011-03-09 Thread NH7VW
Hello Glenn!

I found an old Thread from you in the Elecraft reflector. On the 28th of March 
2009 you wrote that your K3 failed to load the FPF at the address x0040!!! I 
have the same problem now with my K3!!!

Did you get it back to life? If yes, what´s the solution??

Hope to hear from you!!!

73s Alex OE6ASF, NH7VW, HB9TSF
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[Elecraft] Want to swap K3 8-pole filters: have 1.8kHz, want 400hz

2011-03-09 Thread Thomas Horsten
Hi

I have an 1.8kHz filter that I'd like to swap for a 400hz one so I can
match the subreceiver for diversity CW RX. I don't really need the
1.8kHz filter as I'm not an SSB contester.

If you have one and would like to swap, please email me off-list!

Thanks and 73,
Thomas 2E0ETT
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Re: [Elecraft] LineOut on transmit

2011-03-09 Thread Richard Ferch
What you are seeing is the monitor output, which is mono (both 
channels). To turn it off so that you do not see your transmitted signal 
in both displays, adjust the MON control to zero. Using MMTTY, you will 
still see transmitted signals in the left channel display, but these are 
generated in the software, not in the radio (MMTTY uses the left channel 
to transmit).

73,
Rich VE3KI

K8ZTT wrote:

> Jack,
>
> Good question,  that has never crossed my mind;  but now that you mentioned
> it, I notice the same thing.  In my case, it is when on RTTY.  For RTTY I am
> using the US Interface Navigator and have both the main and sub line outs
> connected to it.  Am using MMTTY and have two programs installed (different
> directories so I can open both at the same time).  One is for the main
> receiver and for transmitting (left ch), and the other is for the sub
> receiver (right ch).
>
> I notice than when I transmit (as you observed), the K3 is sending audio out
> the line out on the sub side. And even if the sub receiver is turned off.
> Thus I "see" what I am transmitting on both MTTY displays.
>
> Dick  K8ZTT
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of k1vt
> Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 9:50 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] LineOut on transmit
>
> I am enjoying my new K3/P3 that I received a little over a week ago.
> Although most of my questions have been answered by the manual or by
> experimentation, I have several unanswered questions at this time relating
> to LineOut:
>
> 1) Is it normal to have audio coming out of LineOut while transmitting?  I
> observe this on both SSB and CW.
>
> 2) While receiving, audio from LinOut is from the left channel only, as
> expected.  However, while transmitting equal audio (my TX audio, either SSB
> or CW) comes out of both channels.  Is this normal?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jack K1VT
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Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-09 Thread Tom Azlin N4ZPT
Hi Kevin,

Was not Maxwell that condensed the hard to understand original theory. 
Was some his disciples, aka "The Maxwellians," that finished the theory 
in the present form.  FitzGerald, Lodge, and Heavyside plus others.

Am just now reading "The Maxwellians" that has this story.

73, tom n4zpt



On 3/6/2011 5:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
> I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations in
> twenty unknowns down to just four of them.  The quaternions he used
> initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he
> needed to get them into vector form.  Heaviside did a good job but how do
> you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations?  What
> has been lost in the translation?
>  Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-09 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 > The 43' length is a convenient non-resonant length - nothing else.

No, 43' is 5/8 wave on 20 meters (984/14.3*0.625 == 43).  That is
the point (well, 0.64 wave if you want to be precise) that the
first lobe has maximum radiation in a vertical.  That the 43' or
or 44' vertical happens to be generally non-resonant in all of the
HF bands is fortuitous but not necessarily by design.

> I have a 43' vertical with one of AD5X's 160 and 80 matching systems
> at the base fed with an UN-UN and it works great.

Without base matching and a decent ground system, the 43' vertical is
terribly inefficient on 160 and 80 meters (substantially less than
1/4 wave and extremely reactive) due to very high SWR losses in any
practical feedline (using coax) length.

One would be much better served to use two radiators, one longer than
43' (perhaps 85 feet) for improved efficiency on 160/80 and one shorter 
(perhaps 25 feet) to reduce the substantial amount of RF that is lost
at take-off angles above the critical angle on 15/12/10 meters, along
with an automatic tuner at the base of the antenna.

An untuned (un-un fed) 43' vertical is the 21st century equivalent
of an Isoloop or Gotham vertical ... nothing but snake oil designed
to fool the unwary, those who don't understand electromagnetics, and
those who believe in something for nothing.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2011 6:47 PM, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
> None of these old wive's tales are true.
>
> The 43' length is a convenient non-resonant length - nothing else.
>
> The balun was chosen originally because the 43' vertical was originally
> planned to have one or two elevated radials only (making it balanced), and
> it would load fine with a balun.
>
> The problems came to be when full-blown radial systems were attached and
> station grounds were connected to the radials, which again, were
> originally intended to be elevated - i.e.; not grounded. What this did was
> to short one side of the output of the balun to ground. So, when you
> ground the radials, an UN-UN is preferable and works very well.
>
> I have a 43' vertical with one of AD5X's 160 and 80 matching systems at
> the base fed with an UN-UN and it works great.
>
> I use it on all bands - 160 through 10m. Check out the ZL8X online log
> with my call to see how well it works.
>
> 73,
>
> Bob W5OV
>
>
>
>> I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence
>> transformer or unun.
>>
>> I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length
>> came about
>> because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock
>> with the
>> least waste to meet shipping limitations.
>>
>> 73, Mike NF4L
>>
>> On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
>>> Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...
>>>
>>> Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1
>>> balun on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive,
>>> doesn't it?  Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is
>>> unbalanced.  When you're mating an unbalanced feedline with an
>>> unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off using an unun rather than
>>> a 4:1 balun?
>>>
>>> In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit
>>> anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of
>>> their vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for
>>> example. But when they add an unun they are then amazed at how the
>>> antenna allegedly "sprung to life."
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Dave  AH6TD
>>>
>>> On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
>>>
 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RP
 wrote:
> Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?
>
> 73, Ross N4RP
>
> On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
>> At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I
>> really
>> need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
>> radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
>> of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
>> myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
>> studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
>> found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
>> others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
>> myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.
>>
>> My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
>> vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
>> 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
>> default 2.8KHz filter

[Elecraft] Solder Rot and Circuit Board Cleanup

2011-03-09 Thread sheajohnw

Resoldering the connections is a good idea. 

As far as cleanup, I have a K2 that was involved in a house fire in 2003.  The 
recovered K2 was wet totally soot black, the bezel was melted and the knobs 
heat distorted.  I was advised to try cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol on 
Q-tips and then to “rinse” it with distilled water dampened Q-Tips to see if it 
could be rescued.  
 
I did so, let the unit dry thoroughly, and replaced the bezel, buttons, and 
knobs.  I applied power and the radio came to life except for the RS232 
communications.  I sent the K2 out to an Elecraft listed K2 builder for repairs 
and upgrades to 100 watts.  The returned K2/100 has worked FB ever since and 
has logged about 10,000 mostly digital QSOs.  No other HF radio survived the 
fire since they were not readily repairable like the K2.   

73 de KB1IKD

HTH



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Re: [Elecraft] rig control...

2011-03-09 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
Sorry, the strong to type in for "Insert text on single left click is"


Leigh/WA5ZNU

On 03/09/2011 10:07 AM, Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU wrote:
> You can adjust the fldigi waterfall height with a menu.
>
> Configure / Waterfall / FFT Processing, then there is a slider.
> The max is 160 pixels.  Would you like it bigger?
>
> Also, you can do this:
>
> Configure / Waterfall / Mouse, then check the box "Left click replays
> history"
>
> Then when you click on a signal that's been transmitting a while, it will
> decode the last few seconds on the screen.
>
> You might also like (on the same dialog) "INsert text on single left click"
> and put in the string
>
> Then it will put in a blue line with the frequency and mode every time you
> click to another signal, so if you want to go back you can just click on
> that blue line as if it were a hyperlink and it will take you back.
>
> Leigh/WA5ZNU
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/rig-control-tp6109689p6154784.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] rig control...

2011-03-09 Thread Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
You can adjust the fldigi waterfall height with a menu.

Configure / Waterfall / FFT Processing, then there is a slider.
The max is 160 pixels.  Would you like it bigger?

Also, you can do this:

Configure / Waterfall / Mouse, then check the box "Left click replays
history"

Then when you click on a signal that's been transmitting a while, it will
decode the last few seconds on the screen.

You might also like (on the same dialog) "INsert text on single left click"
and put in the string
   
Then it will put in a blue line with the frequency and mode every time you
click to another signal, so if you want to go back you can just click on
that blue line as if it were a hyperlink and it will take you back.

Leigh/WA5ZNU


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Re: [Elecraft] LineOut on transmit

2011-03-09 Thread Dick
Jack,

Good question,  that has never crossed my mind;  but now that you mentioned
it, I notice the same thing.  In my case, it is when on RTTY.  For RTTY I am
using the US Interface Navigator and have both the main and sub line outs
connected to it.  Am using MMTTY and have two programs installed (different
directories so I can open both at the same time).  One is for the main
receiver and for transmitting (left ch), and the other is for the sub
receiver (right ch).

I notice than when I transmit (as you observed), the K3 is sending audio out
the line out on the sub side. And even if the sub receiver is turned off.
Thus I "see" what I am transmitting on both MTTY displays.

Dick  K8ZTT

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of k1vt
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 9:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] LineOut on transmit

I am enjoying my new K3/P3 that I received a little over a week ago. 
Although most of my questions have been answered by the manual or by
experimentation, I have several unanswered questions at this time relating
to LineOut:  

1) Is it normal to have audio coming out of LineOut while transmitting?  I
observe this on both SSB and CW.

2) While receiving, audio from LinOut is from the left channel only, as
expected.  However, while transmitting equal audio (my TX audio, either SSB
or CW) comes out of both channels.  Is this normal? 

Thanks.

Jack K1VT

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tml
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] LineOut on Transmit?

2011-03-09 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Isn't left channel line out monitor audio while transmitting?  73, Guy.

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:53 AM, Jack Mandelman  wrote:

> I am enjoying my new K3/P3 that I received a little over a week ago.
>  Although most of my questions have been answered by the manual or by
> experimentation, I have several unanswered questions at this time
> relating to *LineOut*:
>
> 1) Is it normal to have audio coming *out* of *LineOut* while
> transmitting?  I observe this on both SSB and CW.
>
> 2) While receiving, audio from LinOut is from the left channel only, as
> expected.  However, while transmitting equal audio (my TX audio, either
> SSB or CW) comes *out* of both channels.  Is this normal?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jack K1VT
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Solder rot?

2011-03-09 Thread David Gilbert

Tin whiskers form in the presence of moisture and high electric fields, 
and I doubt there are high enough E-fields in a K2 to do that ... 
especially at the circuit board level.  Plus, tin whiskers usually have 
a spider web appearance.

A whitish powder, on the other hand, is much more likely to be lead 
oxide.  It forms in the presence of moisture, especially at warm 
temperatures.  If only one board shows it, it is likely that there was 
some residual reactive agent (probably the flux in one of the rolls of 
solder) that accelerated its formation.  Resoldering the joints is 
probably a good idea, but I'd also do my best to clean the board with 
something ... not sure what since I don't know what the reactive agent 
might be.   I'm not familiar with the K2 boards but if most of the parts 
are on one side of the board you may be able to clean the side with the 
solder joints with mild soap and water, rinsing profusely afterward and 
then drying it.

In any case, I certainly wouldn't leave the board as it is.

I'd also try to figure out which roll of solder was used so I could 
throw it away.   Worst case throw them all away and buy a new roll.

73,
Dave   AB7E




On 3/9/2011 6:09 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>Brian,
>
> Is there any chance that you used a lead-free solder on that board?
> Your description certainly sounds like that may have been the case.  The
> white residue could be the start of "tin whisker" formation, but could
> also be caused by flux removal attempts.
>
> Attempts to remove flux can result in future failures.  Rosin flux
> itself is non-conductive, and will do no harm, but many removal attempts
> will actually create future conductive paths.  I don't know what it is
> about rosin flux and flux cleaners, but there is some reaction that
> causes problems "down the road".
>
> Use a cored solder with mildly reactive flux and there will be little
> visible residue.  A highly reactive flux (such as Kester 44) is OK, but
> will leave quite visible flux residue - that is OK unless you attempt to
> remove it.  Professional flux removal - i.e. assembly line washing will
> completely remove the flux, but attempts to remove flux by "home"
> methods will leave some compound behind.
>
> My recommended correction at this point - remove the existing solder
> with solder wick or a de-soldering tool, and then resolder.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:50 AM, Brian Jones wrote:
>> Anyone got any thoughts - my K2 has been playing up with the serial
>> connection so I investigated and ...
>>
>> The entire serial board is no longer the neat bright solder joints that were
>> there when I made it. Instead almost every joint is a dull matt grey and in
>> many places there are bits of white dusty solder around the base of the
>> joint, in several places joints are connected by this 'dust'. It's almost as
>> if the solder has rotted.
>>
>> I do have several different spools of solder and, who knows, which one I
>> used 8 years ago. However they are all traditional 60/40 Sn/Pb flux cored
>> from reputable manufacturers so ought be OK. It is only this one board that
>> has the problem, all the others still show nice shiny joints.
>>
>> No problem it's just a few hours work to remove, clean and then replace all
>> the components (and a joy to do since I get chance to use my new retirement
>> gift of a Metcal solder station) I'm just curious as to the cause, bad
>> solder, a board that hadn't been cleaned of flux properly, anything else?
>>
>> Brian G0UKB
>>
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[Elecraft] [K3] LineOut on Transmit?

2011-03-09 Thread Jack Mandelman
I am enjoying my new K3/P3 that I received a little over a week ago. 
  Although most of my questions have been answered by the manual or by 
experimentation, I have several unanswered questions at this time 
relating to *LineOut*:

1) Is it normal to have audio coming *out* of *LineOut* while 
transmitting?  I observe this on both SSB and CW.

2) While receiving, audio from LinOut is from the left channel only, as 
expected.  However, while transmitting equal audio (my TX audio, either 
SSB or CW) comes *out* of both channels.  Is this normal?

Thanks.

Jack K1VT
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[Elecraft] LineOut on transmit

2011-03-09 Thread k1vt
I am enjoying my new K3/P3 that I received a little over a week ago. 
Although most of my questions have been answered by the manual or by
experimentation, I have several unanswered questions at this time relating
to LineOut:  

1) Is it normal to have audio coming out of LineOut while transmitting?  I
observe this on both SSB and CW.

2) While receiving, audio from LinOut is from the left channel only, as
expected.  However, while transmitting equal audio (my TX audio, either SSB
or CW) comes out of both channels.  Is this normal? 

Thanks.

Jack K1VT

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Re: [Elecraft] subrx and filters

2011-03-09 Thread Jim Brown
On 3/9/2011 6:48 AM, Mike Markowski wrote:
> Yes, I would recommend having both matching filters in your subreceiver.

One variation on that.  While your technique of using the wide filter to 
listen on the DX frequency is a good one, the lower cost 2.7 kHz filter 
accomplishes that just fine. The only reason for MATCHING filters 
between the two receivers is for diversity reception, where the phase 
characteristics of the filter can make a difference. Every time I've 
used diversity reception I've had a much narrower filter engaged.

My radios have 2.7 kHz, 1.8 kHz, 400 Hz, and 250 Hz filters. You only 
need the 1.8 kHz and 250 Hz filters if you're a serious contester. 
Otherwise, the 2.7 kHz and 400 Hz filters are a very good choice. My 
neighbor, K6XX, an engineer who works for Elecraft, advises me that it's 
good to have a 2.8 kHz filter on the MAIN board, so that you are 
transmitting through it.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] CW to DATA question

2011-03-09 Thread Dick Dievendorff
This is the technique the K3 Utility's terminal program uses.  EOT is sent
when the ESC key is pressed, when the input buffer empties, when you toggle
transmit with the CTRL-T or if you click the terminal page transmit/stop
button.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:06 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW to DATA question


K5LAD wrote:
> 
> I see how the "IM" prosign is used to quickly terminate a transmission 
> when sending via the key to keyer connection but I can't find how that 
> "IM" can be implemented using the K3 Terminal program.
> 
> I've searched archive messages and through the documentation but I'm 
> not having any luck finding an answer.  I've tried to just append the 
> prosign characters at the end of what I'm sending but, of course, it 
> sends IM instead of stopping.  Are there some characters required to 
> enclose the IM or how is it actually done?
> 
> 

Hi Jim,

I looked at the source code of KComm (incidentally you are welcome to do so
as well, it is GPL open source Free Pascal, whether you can make head or
tail of it is another matter, I can't figure out what I did half the time.)
It seems that I do it by sending EOT which is Chr(4). I can't remember
whether it's a K3 menu option to use one or the other or whether either of
them work. The Programmers Ref will probably have the answer to that.

Happy coding.


-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] CW to DATA question

2011-03-09 Thread Julian, G4ILO

K5LAD wrote:
> 
> I see how the "IM" prosign is used to quickly terminate a 
> transmission when sending via the key to keyer connection but I 
> can't find how that "IM" can be implemented using the K3 
> Terminal program.  
> 
> I've searched archive messages and through the documentation 
> but I'm not having any luck finding an answer.  I've tried to just 
> append the prosign characters at the end of what I'm sending but, 
> of course, it sends IM instead of stopping.  Are there some 
> characters required to enclose the IM or how is it actually done?
> 
> 

Hi Jim,

I looked at the source code of KComm (incidentally you are welcome to do so
as well, it is GPL open source Free Pascal, whether you can make head or
tail of it is another matter, I can't figure out what I did half the time.)
It seems that I do it by sending EOT which is Chr(4). I can't remember
whether it's a K3 menu option to use one or the other or whether either of
them work. The Programmers Ref will probably have the answer to that.

Happy coding.


-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] subrx and filters

2011-03-09 Thread Mike Markowski
Juha,

Yes, I would recommend having both matching filters in your subreceiver.

In my main receiver I have filters for 13/6/2.8/0.4 kHz.  In the sub I chose
only 2.8/0.4 kHz filters and am happy with the choice.  I've found no need (so
far!) for AM & FM filters in the sub.

Here's why I like the 2,8 and 0,4 kHz filters.  For dx, I put the sub on the dx
op's transmitting freq and tighten up the filter to 400 Hz or less.  Then I have
the main receiver opened up to 2.8 kHz or even wider on occasion.  Using
software on my laptop, the freq spectrum is displayed - a poor man's P3! - and
my tx freq is chosen after discovering the dx op's listening pattern.  I also
turn up the audio on the sub (dx's transmit freq) relative to the main so that
I'm sure to hear when my call finally is answered.

The 2,8 comes in handy for SSB in a similar way, but I use the still wider
filters of the main to hear the pileup.

So far, this works so well that I'm not sure I need a P3.  But I'm open to being
convinced otherwise.  After all, can you ever have enough gadgets?  :-)

73,
Mike ab3ap

On 03/09/2011 07:29 AM, Juha - oh6os wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I am thinking to buy KRX3. The main K3 I have 2,8 kHz and 400 Hz filters.
> What I need to subRX? Is 2,7 and 500 good choice and do I need KFLMATCH?
> 
> juha - oh6os
> K2#4781
> K3#2100
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Re: [Elecraft] Solder rot?

2011-03-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Brian,

Is there any chance that you used a lead-free solder on that board?  
Your description certainly sounds like that may have been the case.  The 
white residue could be the start of "tin whisker" formation, but could 
also be caused by flux removal attempts.

Attempts to remove flux can result in future failures.  Rosin flux 
itself is non-conductive, and will do no harm, but many removal attempts 
will actually create future conductive paths.  I don't know what it is 
about rosin flux and flux cleaners, but there is some reaction that 
causes problems "down the road".

Use a cored solder with mildly reactive flux and there will be little 
visible residue.  A highly reactive flux (such as Kester 44) is OK, but 
will leave quite visible flux residue - that is OK unless you attempt to 
remove it.  Professional flux removal - i.e. assembly line washing will 
completely remove the flux, but attempts to remove flux by "home" 
methods will leave some compound behind.

My recommended correction at this point - remove the existing solder 
with solder wick or a de-soldering tool, and then resolder.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2011 7:50 AM, Brian Jones wrote:
> Anyone got any thoughts - my K2 has been playing up with the serial
> connection so I investigated and ...
>
> The entire serial board is no longer the neat bright solder joints that were
> there when I made it. Instead almost every joint is a dull matt grey and in
> many places there are bits of white dusty solder around the base of the
> joint, in several places joints are connected by this 'dust'. It's almost as
> if the solder has rotted.
>
> I do have several different spools of solder and, who knows, which one I
> used 8 years ago. However they are all traditional 60/40 Sn/Pb flux cored
> from reputable manufacturers so ought be OK. It is only this one board that
> has the problem, all the others still show nice shiny joints.
>
> No problem it's just a few hours work to remove, clean and then replace all
> the components (and a joy to do since I get chance to use my new retirement
> gift of a Metcal solder station) I'm just curious as to the cause, bad
> solder, a board that hadn't been cleaned of flux properly, anything else?
>
> Brian G0UKB
>
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[Elecraft] K3 for Sale

2011-03-09 Thread Larry K1UO
For Sale:   Fully Loaded K3
I have a factory assembled K3 and accessories.  I am the original owner,
unit is in excellent condition (10 of 10) and was delivered to me at the end
of Dec 2008.  It has been factory updated with all Elecraft  hardware
changes and latest software.   K3 was ordered/equipped as follows:  Listed
by Elecraft P/N’s.
K3/100F
KAT3-F
KBPF3 (in sub RX side)
KDVR3
KRX3-F
KPCA-F  extra power cable 
KXV3  (updated at factory)
KTCX03-1
KFL3A-2.8K   (both RX’s)
KFL3A-1.8K   (both RX’s)
KFL3A-1.0K   (both RX’s)
KFL3A-500(both RX’s)
KFL3A-200(both RX’s)
KFLMATCH
KUSB CABLE
PR6   Preamp
Proset-K2  (from Elecraft)
K3- ASSYMAN  Rev G
K3 OMANRev D2
A $5200+ value for $3900 shipped/insured  CONUS only
* Also have SignaLink USB and factory cable for connecting to K3 for Digital
modes and a
New (20 minutes used)  Yamaha CM500 headset also available.   Add $100 for
both.


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[Elecraft] Solder rot?

2011-03-09 Thread Brian Jones
Anyone got any thoughts - my K2 has been playing up with the serial
connection so I investigated and ...

The entire serial board is no longer the neat bright solder joints that were
there when I made it. Instead almost every joint is a dull matt grey and in
many places there are bits of white dusty solder around the base of the
joint, in several places joints are connected by this 'dust'. It's almost as
if the solder has rotted.

I do have several different spools of solder and, who knows, which one I
used 8 years ago. However they are all traditional 60/40 Sn/Pb flux cored
from reputable manufacturers so ought be OK. It is only this one board that
has the problem, all the others still show nice shiny joints.

No problem it's just a few hours work to remove, clean and then replace all
the components (and a joy to do since I get chance to use my new retirement
gift of a Metcal solder station) I'm just curious as to the cause, bad
solder, a board that hadn't been cleaned of flux properly, anything else?

Brian G0UKB
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Re: [Elecraft] subrx and filters

2011-03-09 Thread Thomas Horsten
Hi Juha,

If you are going to use it for Diversity RX, the best option is to
have the same set of filters on both receivers. That way the
characteristics of the two receivers are the same in the presence of
strong adjacent signals. If you have the 400hz filter on the main rx,
and 500 on the sub, and there is a strong signal 450 hz away, you will
lose sensitivity in the sub receiver.

At least this is how I understand it, others might be more
knowledgeable than me!

73, Thomas 2E0ETT

On 9 March 2011 12:29, Juha - oh6os  wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I am thinking to buy KRX3. The main K3 I have 2,8 kHz and 400 Hz filters.
> What I need to subRX? Is 2,7 and 500 good choice and do I need KFLMATCH?
>
> juha - oh6os
> K2#4781
> K3#2100
>
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[Elecraft] subrx and filters

2011-03-09 Thread Juha - oh6os
Hello,

I am thinking to buy KRX3. The main K3 I have 2,8 kHz and 400 Hz filters.
What I need to subRX? Is 2,7 and 500 good choice and do I need KFLMATCH?

juha - oh6os
K2#4781
K3#2100

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Re: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws

2011-03-09 Thread Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Funnily enough..YES, it has Gary.
And yes folks, it does really need them, here in Innisfail we are averaging 200 
- 300mm (8  - 12 inches) of rain per day and have done for the last week and a 
half.
For the uninitiated, our average yearly rainfall here in Innisfail is 
approximately 5Metres per year. (Thats getting close to 20 feet of rain a year!)

I don't have gills yet but I am working on them. :)


Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Innisfail, QLD, Australia
Elecraft K3# 4257 + PR6 - K144XV = multiband goodness!

  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Gregory 
  To: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF 
  Cc: Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604 ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 3:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws


  Hey Jeff,

  Your K3 got floaties yet?...:-)

  Gary


  On 9 March 2011 15:10, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF  
wrote:

Hi Doug,
I had the Stainless Steel kit in installed into my K3 when it was factory 
built and I swear by them.
(I reckon that if it had standard screws in it I would be swearing AT them!)
I live right on the east coast of Australia in the tropics where we get 
salt spray, floods, cyclones (hurricanes) and all manner of other weather 
delights.
I am sure that if my K3 had the standard screws in it that it would have 
rust stains all over the radio by now. (And the radio is not yet 1 year old!)

My $0.02c worth, keep the change!

Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Innisfail, QLD, Australia
Elecraft K3# 4257 + PR6 - K144XV = multiband goodness!

 - Original Message -
 From: Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:08 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws


 This was discussed in depth a while back, but I though I'd report my
 experience.

 I took my K3 to Niue and Norfolk Island for a couple of weeks each in
 their spring.  In both cases, we were high over the ocean, not close but
 it was visible, and humidity was often high.
 My K3 now has a dozen screws that now have rusty heads- the 8 fan
 mounting screws and the 4 speaker mounting screws.  I have the SS screw
 kit in hand, but haven't gotten to installing them.

 I also had a minor KAT3 failure, I think due to the amount of
 transportation, about which I'll report later.

 73, doug
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  -- 

  VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
  Elecraft Equipment
  K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
  Living the dream!!!

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[Elecraft] K3 #0298

2011-03-09 Thread Bernd Wendpaap
Hello all,
This may have been mentioned in the past but I cannot find it.
(*A)* *The occasion came up to record received audio and play it back to the
sender.*
1. AF REC was used and played back with AF PLAY (which appears to be for
only localy listening)
2. Attempted to store the AF REC in to one of the memories bring it back to
VFO and play on air - no result.
3. *RECORDED OFF AIR SIGNALS to 'M3' - no monitoring while recording. When
retransmitting recorded audio from M3 no monitoring and very much
reduced output. *
*4. When recording local SSB/CW messages to M1-M4 monitoring ok and also
when subsequently transmitting on air normal power output and monitoring as
per settings with or without eq/proc etc. *
*I would appreciate any comments re above primarily re "A" above" tks.*

*73 HS0ZIK VK6WO SA6AZG*
qth OK03KP
-- 
Bernd Wendpaap
89/114 M7, Moobaan Chaiyapruk,
Bangbo, Bangbo
Samutprakan 10560
Thailand
Mob 081 8236800
skype bernd.wendpaap
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